@@thoroughbreddiesel u really are a life saver. I was working on getting my turbo out and I got stuck on how to take it out but I watch ur video again and got it 10 minutes later, thank u sir!!!
I did the turbo stand seals on my 2002 F250 and it took me 3 days to get the turbo back on the up pipe, O let me ad to all the younger guys reading this post, I am 82 yrs old! My chest hurt for a week!
Remove the battery box and fender liners, it allows you to stand next to the engine instead of laying over it . I'm 66 and still working as a fleet mechanic. In2021 I shattered my left knee cap which is now wired together I can not bend it as much nor can I kneel on it. when working on the top side of the 7.3 I remove battery boxes and fender liners, pulling charge air tubes, and other things are now easy. The time it takes to do that is made up because everything else is now faster.
Thank you for this in-depth how-to video. The engineers at Ford apparently did not ever want anyone over 85 lbs and who is not double jointed to remove that turbo. I struggled for days trying to remove it until I watched this.
Well, I finally got my new turbo and pedestal installed yesterday. The video was VERY helpful but, I understand why you cut the video while you took off that rear clamp! OMG!! I have cuts and scrapes all over my hands and arms! The clamp was almost as hard to put back on too! It wouldn’t have been as hard if it didn’t sit right against the fire wall!
I don't think you realise how much i truly appreciate guys like you who show absolutely everything. This video has been awesome for me as a new 7.3 owner so thank you so much for this detailed video, your the absolute man🤟
pro tip for the bellow clamp is leave turbo loose and u will easily get the bellow to mate up way easier and be able to tighten it then snug turbo down
Your videos are so great! I have learned so much about working on my 2000 7.3 It is so helpful to have your videos as a guide when doing a repair. I just put new injectors in and fixed my turbo with your help! Don't be scared to do these repairs if you have a good set of tools! Save your self some money!
Thanks for the video. I am rebuilding my turbo and your video helped. You did say at one point you would have a link to a rebuild video but I was not able to find it. I waited for the link, searched the "more" section, and looked through all of your other videos. I ended up tearing it apart and finding that it was pretty easy to do. I have used your videos many times for many projects and your tutorials are always the most indepth. Thanks again!
@@Nitro2Nitro that was meant to be a shot at the folks that say that bs.... Always read... Sure I removed and rebuilt the whole engine in a weekend or I can remove and rebuild the turbo in an hour...
This made it all possible, thanks! Don't forget to Liquid wrench those v clamps... I also found that during reinstillation, loosely getting the V clamps on before bolting down to the pedestal saved a bit of struggle....
I'm not going to lie, pulling that turbo took me 5 hrs as I could not get that dang rear clamp off until I took a piece of pipe and sledge hammer to it (replaced it with a kc300x) so I wasnt worried about damaging it. If I ever run into a ford engine compartment engineer I'd punch him. Horrible location of everything. Needless to say install took a 1/4 of the time. I referenced your video many times. Thanks Mitch
It only takes approximately 2.5 hours to have the cab ready to lift off the frame. Do it often on Ford F series. Loosening the cab / core support bolts takes only minutes. That allows you to lift the cab so that access to the turbo bolts & clamps are a breeze. Another time saver is removing the battery box, & fender liner. You can now stand on 2 feet right next to the engine, it even works on the Right side even if equipped with HVAC . It saved your back and elbows. Just did it again on my wife's 2000 SD while replacing High pressure oil hoses and valve cover gaskets. It really made doing the injector / glow plug wires easy. Topside creepers are okay IF you have a hard surface for it which on a mobile call you usually don't have. Also, when this engine is in IH trucks they Do Not run crankcase vapors into the engine, they use the road draft method. It keeps the intake, turbo and intake valves so much cleaner.
I dig into my 2003 originally for up pipes, cut the old pipes and realized the two main bolts holding the turbo to pedestal were almost finger loose!!! It never leaked oil which absolutely amazing to me. Condition of turbo was terrible, asked my race engine/turbo builder and recommended to just buy a reman.
Ok, now I know where the oil goes into the turbo at! I just blew turbo, or at least that is what I believe I did. I think all my oil left my oil pan in a matter of minutes. I looked it over today but found nothing where the oil came from but this video gives me more info so will check that out tomorrow.
Question, if you don't mind. I have removed the Turbo and stack mount but see nothing indicating where all the oil blew out! Seals are all in place and Turbo seems fine. I know a little about Turbo's as I am a truck driver and own my own rigs. Usually if you can spin it, it is fine. Can you point me to a place that might tell me where all my oil blew out of? thanks ahead of time. @@thoroughbreddiesel
Thanks again for the awesome video mate. As always, brilliant explanations and great photography. Working on these utes in Australia is much easier with your help as there’s not as much content down here. Please keep’m com’n. 👍
The easiest way to get the up-pipe clamp off is with a tiny flat blade screwdriver. I just tuck it under the end of the ear of the clamp against the flange and twist.
Hi 👋 this is what I said a really heavy job 😊 so tight for release that exaust clamp and removing that bigger turbo 🤔 but I see you have a special stuff for staying on top of the engine comfortable for working because this vehicle it's to high 😏 great explanation 👏👏👍 you are a really good mechanic 👍 you have a new subscriber 👏👌👍 cheers from North of Norway 🇳🇴 😀 👍👍
Thanks for the vid cant wait to get to the grunting parts. Looks super fun 🤩 👍👍 Doing the 2 rail fuel line to the 4 rail upgrade. And a wicked wheel for now.
I wasted a couple of hours trying to get the clamps off with pry tools, chisels, hammers, etc. An air chisel is the way to go: one 2 second burst and the entire clamp falls off.
I just did this job on my 2001with a few minor upgrades new up pipes ebpv delete on the turbo ebpv delete pedistal plenum inserts and new charge pipes and and new boots the truck runs great but I used trans gel to hold the o rings in place after running the truck for a while I noticed dampness where the pedistal meets the block could this be the trans gel melting? also your video was very helpful thank you.
Really nice job with the whole process. My Turbo went out at 448k miles. Only had 300 miles on the oil change as I was prepping for vacation trip to the river. Still a requirement to change the oil?
Outstanding video, Sir. You have given me the confidence to tackle my Wicked Wheel, turbo rebuild, bellowed up pipe, cooler boots, fuel line, EBPV delete, oil rail plugs project. Did I miss anything while I'm back there?
Eva DeVries, If you are doing the oil rail plugs on the back of the head, you may have to use a torch to heat up the lock-tite on them to remove them. They can be crazy tight.
kslot82, Thank you for the heads up. The plugs are not currently leaking, and if they're as tight as you say I may just wait another 200k miles when I'll pull the engine for its 500k rebuild.
This is the one job I can say isn't that bad, but sucks to do regardless I just did bellowed Up-pipes, Turbo CHRA and the Wicked Wheel 2 upgrade on my friends 7.3.
Struggling to find a good video on an OBS turbo removal video. im having issues getting the bolts off that connect the turbo to the up pipes, the impact cant even get them loose
What is your recommended procedure prep for the first restart of a new/rebuilt turbo? Do you crank the motor with the fuel pump fuse/relay disconnected to get the oil flowing, or ??? Ty
You will prefill/prelube the turbo with clean oil. Always remember to change the oil in the vehicle that you have had the turbo off of. You can crank a few seconds for oil flow, but before you run the truck, make sure you check the turbo prelube again, add a little, then start the truck.
I shouldve bought and swapped the plenums when I had this all out... welp another thing to do when I have to go back in to change out the old style uppipes
Lots of people talk about how difficult it is working on a E-Series to do certain jobs. I would be interested in some comments (reply's) as to if turbo removal is easier or more difficult on a van? I mean, Ya got a doghouse on the back side you can remove to get at , well, the back side. Ya don't have all that intercooler stuff. Ya don't have a Waste Gate. And if your lucky (SMART) you have removed the IAH already & plugged that hole. Removed the resonator box & plugged that hole. Removed (relocated to free air) the CCV line & plugged that hole. So i'm (guessing) this is ONE job that must be 5 times easier on a Van? What say all you??
How about spraying the clamps with penatrating oil a day before trying to remove them. Your video made this a very doable job. Also would this be a good time to replace the valve cover gskts. When the turbo was off. Since I've had the injector harness plug come loose in the driver's side valve cover. Thank's again
Thank you for watching! Yes penetrating oil is good on the clamps before removal, just keep it in mind that you did that when you fire it up and see a little smoke. Changing out the VC gaskets is good here too as you said, just easier to get to everything.
@Thoroughbred Diesel Wade, I have a '97 and are looks deceiving me to think I can pull the compressor housing without pulling turbo out of the truck? I will be doing a fuel pump R&R though may as well do it all at once. ???
What is the ball park cost for you guys to perform this service parts and labor. I am wanting to do the exact same thing on my 99 with the blank turbo pedestal, new seals and bolts . Thanks
Wade, I was very intimidated by the thought of the process. My son and I together got the turbo, pedestal and cleaned up the junk & muck on top of engine in 3 hrs. (With a water break in there. My son cleaned up the top of engine, it looked green like antifreeze and some oil sludge. Not sure where to turn from here. All of the tubes had oil in them, engine had been idle for about 3 mos., any suggestions or what to look for?!? Thanks Again for a great video!
‘02 Excursion. When I add the pedestal with the EBPV delete, is the any benefit to removing the EBP tube and sensor? Also plug the hole in the manifold where the tube was connected?
Add new engine oil to the oil feed hole and turn shaft by hand to lubricate bearings. It will run through to the return so you cant fill it, just use good sense here.
How do I remove a Banks exhaust brake from my 02 F250. I need to get the valve cover off and that exhaust brake is right on the downpipe next to the turbo
hello i’m trying to install a new turbo wheel and i don’t want to take the whole turbo out. i’ve gotten everything out of the way but i just can’t get the bottom 2 bolts of the housing. is there any tool i should use or a trick or a certain angle to get it at? trying to finish it today
Not always. The 7.3 has a PVC dump into the intake of the turbo so it is processing oil through the intercooler (small amounts). If the engine has EXCESSIVE blow by, take to someone and have them take a look.
@@thoroughbreddiesel Thank you!! So far she runs good, just got a little scared when I had to take off the intercooler tube to replace a steering line.
BOUGHT A 7.3 02 - UNFORTUNATELY FROM PREVIOUS OWNER HAD AN ACCIDENT - AND PASS SIDE OF BLOCK MOUNTING HAS BEEN SHEARED OFF ! THE 1ST MOUNTING BRACKET ON BLOCK !😭😭. WONDERING IF POSSIBILITY OF REATTACH ING THE 1ST BRACKET ONTO BLOCK ? WONDERING IF IT'S POSSIBLE TO DO THAT ? CAUSE I HAVE NO OTHER ONE - TOO POOR TO BY ANOTHER ONE !😭😭😭😭. 350 - 7.3 .
Wade is the best at install videos, you're the man!
Thanks. That means a lot.
@@thoroughbreddiesel u really are a life saver. I was working on getting my turbo out and I got stuck on how to take it out but I watch ur video again and got it 10 minutes later, thank u sir!!!
I did the turbo stand seals on my 2002 F250 and it took me 3 days to get the turbo back on the up pipe, O let me ad to all the younger guys reading this post, I am 82 yrs old! My chest hurt for a week!
you have to lift the up pipe but i'm sure you know this by know. I fought with it for a day
Remove the battery box and fender liners, it allows you to stand next to the engine instead of laying over it .
I'm 66 and still working as a fleet mechanic.
In2021 I shattered my left knee cap which is now wired together
I can not bend it as much nor can I kneel on it.
when working on the top side of the 7.3 I remove battery boxes and fender liners, pulling charge air tubes, and other things are now easy.
The time it takes to do that is made up because everything else is now faster.
Good on you most guys half your age wouldn’t even attempt that.
You’re my new hero !
Top side crepers are so good to lay on a must have if you work on your own truck check them out I got mine used for 50 bucks
The best part about these install videos is that he dosent edit them much so you actually get to see how he removes everything and goes step by step
“That back one is going to require cursing” 😂 still hilarious a year later
Thank you for this in-depth how-to video. The engineers at Ford apparently did not ever want anyone over 85 lbs and who is not double jointed to remove that turbo. I struggled for days trying to remove it until I watched this.
You're welcome! Glad we could help.
Outstanding video on how to replace the turbo and pedestal on a 99.5-2003 7.3! This video is so helpful for us diy’ers! Thanks!!
You're welcome! Glad it helped. :)
Well, I finally got my new turbo and pedestal installed yesterday. The video was VERY helpful but, I understand why you cut the video while you took off that rear clamp! OMG!! I have cuts and scrapes all over my hands and arms! The clamp was almost as hard to put back on too! It wouldn’t have been as hard if it didn’t sit right against the fire wall!
I don't think you realise how much i truly appreciate guys like you who show absolutely everything. This video has been awesome for me as a new 7.3 owner so thank you so much for this detailed video, your the absolute man🤟
Our pleasure! Thanks!
pro tip for the bellow clamp is leave turbo loose and u will easily get the bellow to mate up way easier and be able to tighten it then snug turbo down
Very detailed, thorough walkthru of the removal/install process. Thanks for the "do it our self" help!
You're welcome!
Slide hammer instead of 4 cans of penitratiing oil and a bunch of elbow grease. you are the man!
Your videos are so great! I have learned so much about working on my 2000 7.3 It is so helpful to have your videos as a guide when doing a repair. I just put new injectors in and fixed my turbo with your help!
Don't be scared to do these repairs if you have a good set of tools! Save your self some money!
Great to hear! That is why we make the videos. Put the knowledge in your hands to make your truck life better.
Thanks for the video. I am rebuilding my turbo and your video helped. You did say at one point you would have a link to a rebuild video but I was not able to find it. I waited for the link, searched the "more" section, and looked through all of your other videos. I ended up tearing it apart and finding that it was pretty easy to do. I have used your videos many times for many projects and your tutorials are always the most indepth. Thanks again!
You're welcome!
You saved me HOURS with getting the. Back clamp in the exhaust y pipe! The pry bar and hammer worked wonders on both the ears. THANK YOU!
Do you have a link to purchase a small praybar and slide hammer?
I just wanted to know where and what size to look
Tech tip! Loosen the y pipe at the headers. Gives you all the adjustment the get the turbo remounted correctly.
THANK YOU!! The breaker bar on the rear clamp ears saved me at least an hour. Thank you for the informative video
Great to hear!
Most realistic removal and install video ever... Cant believe the "I took it out and back in an hour " 🙂
Yea right
@@Nitro2Nitro that was meant to be a shot at the folks that say that bs.... Always read... Sure I removed and rebuilt the whole engine in a weekend or I can remove and rebuild the turbo in an hour...
This made it all possible, thanks! Don't forget to Liquid wrench those v clamps... I also found that during reinstillation, loosely getting the V clamps on before bolting down to the pedestal saved a bit of struggle....
I'm not going to lie, pulling that turbo took me 5 hrs as I could not get that dang rear clamp off until I took a piece of pipe and sledge hammer to it (replaced it with a kc300x) so I wasnt worried about damaging it. If I ever run into a ford engine compartment engineer I'd punch him. Horrible location of everything. Needless to say install took a 1/4 of the time. I referenced your video many times.
Thanks
Mitch
Glad we could help!. The rear clamp is the worst part by far.
Great Video! Thank you guys for taking the time to do this for us who needed the information.
You're welcome!
It only takes approximately 2.5 hours to have the cab ready to lift off the frame. Do it often on Ford F series.
Loosening the cab / core support bolts takes only minutes. That allows you to lift the cab so that access to the turbo bolts & clamps are a breeze.
Another time saver is removing the battery box, & fender liner.
You can now stand on 2 feet right next to the engine, it even works on the Right side even if equipped with HVAC .
It saved your back and elbows.
Just did it again on my wife's 2000 SD while replacing High pressure oil hoses and valve cover gaskets. It really made doing the injector / glow plug wires easy.
Topside creepers are okay IF you have a hard surface for it which on a mobile call you usually don't have.
Also, when this engine is in IH trucks they Do Not run crankcase vapors into the engine, they use the road draft method. It keeps the intake, turbo and intake valves so much cleaner.
Thanks for sharing!
This just answered my question that i literally just asked😂😂 appreciate the info
@@thoroughbreddiesel I enjoy your videos.
You did a wonderful job demonstration it aint easy I was cussing every 2 minutes thank you
🍻 YW. 😂
I dig into my 2003 originally for up pipes, cut the old pipes and realized the two main bolts holding the turbo to pedestal were almost finger loose!!! It never leaked oil which absolutely amazing to me. Condition of turbo was terrible, asked my race engine/turbo builder and recommended to just buy a reman.
Ok, now I know where the oil goes into the turbo at! I just blew turbo, or at least that is what I believe I did. I think all my oil left my oil pan in a matter of minutes. I looked it over today but found nothing where the oil came from but this video gives me more info so will check that out tomorrow.
Hope you get it fixed.
Question, if you don't mind. I have removed the Turbo and stack mount but see nothing indicating where all the oil blew out! Seals are all in place and Turbo seems fine. I know a little about Turbo's as I am a truck driver and own my own rigs. Usually if you can spin it, it is fine. Can you point me to a place that might tell me where all my oil blew out of? thanks ahead of time.
@@thoroughbreddiesel
Never mind sir, I found the problem.@@thoroughbreddiesel
OMG! THE SLIDE HAMMER HAS CHANGED LIFE!!!
Big thanks for such a through install video! I'm doing a swap to my 7.3 (first diesel), and it's been a great reference. 🍻
You're welcome. Glad it helped!
Thanks again for the awesome video mate. As always, brilliant explanations and great photography. Working on these utes in Australia is much easier with your help as there’s not as much content down here. Please keep’m com’n. 👍
Awesome, thank you!!!!
Awesome video. Im doing exhaust manifolds and up-pipes and pulling the turbo had me worried the most. Think im ready to tackle it now lol
You can do it!
The easiest way to get the up-pipe clamp off is with a tiny flat blade screwdriver. I just tuck it under the end of the ear of the clamp against the flange and twist.
Gonna do this tomorrow, and much more! Great video my friend. Will be my 1st dsl ever, may God be with me!
Thanks! Good luck. If you have any questions give us a call.
Came here looking for tips for that rear clamp. Always gives me fits. Thanks for the suggestion on the slide hammer and approach. Cheers
Glad to help!
@@thoroughbreddiesel I found that a lady foot prybar, axle socket and vice grip make a pretty good red neck diy slide hammer lol. Cheers.
Just pulled a turbo from my Junkyard. Everything was already done. Just had to undo the V band clamps on the up and down pipes and had it out.
Could not have done it with out your video. Thanks for taking the time and do this.
Glad it helped!
Best how to video I’ve ever seen thank you so much made it a breeze to put on your Turbo!
Great to hear! Thanks!
Hi 👋 this is what I said a really heavy job 😊 so tight for release that exaust clamp and removing that bigger turbo 🤔 but I see you have a special stuff for staying on top of the engine comfortable for working because this vehicle it's to high 😏 great explanation 👏👏👍 you are a really good mechanic 👍 you have a new subscriber 👏👌👍 cheers from North of Norway 🇳🇴 😀 👍👍
Det er hyggelig å møte deg
I used an air hammer to get the v band clamp to pop loose.
Spray the clamps with WD while loosenong then next one then tap with wood handle on band clamp if dont have heel bar small..
Thanks for the vid cant wait to get to the grunting parts. Looks super fun 🤩 👍👍 Doing the 2 rail fuel line to the 4 rail upgrade. And a wicked wheel for now.
Kicking butt with the install videos today!
Thanks! We have so much great content and install coming your way it would blow your mind! 🙀
I wasted a couple of hours trying to get the clamps off with pry tools, chisels, hammers, etc. An air chisel is the way to go: one 2 second burst and the entire clamp falls off.
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!!!!
You're welcome!
I just did this job on my 2001with a few minor upgrades new up pipes ebpv delete on the turbo ebpv delete pedistal plenum inserts and new charge pipes and and new boots the truck runs great but I used trans gel to hold the o rings in place after running the truck for a while I noticed dampness where the pedistal meets the block could this be the trans gel melting? also your video was very helpful thank you.
If you have the rear clamp really stuck I used a air hammer on my up pipe worked beautifully
Now we just need a T3 or T4 install video on the ol 7.3!
🤔
Really nice job with the whole process. My Turbo went out at 448k miles. Only had 300 miles on the oil change as I was prepping for vacation trip to the river. Still a requirement to change the oil?
Thanks, this was super helpful!
You're very welcome!
Outstanding video, Sir. You have given me the confidence to tackle my Wicked Wheel, turbo rebuild, bellowed up pipe, cooler boots, fuel line, EBPV delete, oil rail plugs project. Did I miss anything while I'm back there?
Eva DeVries, If you are doing the oil rail plugs on the back of the head, you may have to use a torch to heat up the lock-tite on them to remove them. They can be crazy tight.
kslot82, Thank you for the heads up. The plugs are not currently leaking, and if they're as tight as you say I may just wait another 200k miles when I'll pull the engine for its 500k rebuild.
How did it go?
Even the best lose their 10mm. Great video.
Literally 😂
air chisel with a blunt tip on the v band will break it free very fast
Great mechanic thank you sir, alot of experiance
You are welcome! Thanks!
Another awesome video👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you! We thought it would be helpful since it takes awhile to do this one.
Very good video Showed everything and it was well spoken
This is the one job I can say isn't that bad, but sucks to do regardless
I just did bellowed Up-pipes, Turbo CHRA and the Wicked Wheel 2 upgrade on my friends 7.3.
I owe you a damn steak dinner, video is a lifesaver!!!
Where would I buy the crepper your using
It would be more helpful if you would have held the v-vane clamp up to the camera for a few more seconds so I could get a good look and it.
Struggling to find a good video on an OBS turbo removal video. im having issues getting the bolts off that connect the turbo to the up pipes, the impact cant even get them loose
Not used to work on these trucks... I felt dizzy installing that pos turbo
pro tip you forgot permatex grey high torque in the o rings base the turbo wont leak
Great video!!! Can you guys do an engine removal and install of that engine?
What is your recommended procedure prep for the first restart of a new/rebuilt turbo? Do you crank the motor with the fuel pump fuse/relay disconnected to get the oil flowing, or ??? Ty
You will prefill/prelube the turbo with clean oil. Always remember to change the oil in the vehicle that you have had the turbo off of. You can crank a few seconds for oil flow, but before you run the truck, make sure you check the turbo prelube again, add a little, then start the truck.
I shouldve bought and swapped the plenums when I had this all out... welp another thing to do when I have to go back in to change out the old style uppipes
Vary helpful video thanks wade
great video Very informative, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Lots of people talk about how difficult it is working on a E-Series to do certain jobs. I would be interested in some comments (reply's) as to if turbo removal is easier or more difficult on a van? I mean, Ya got a doghouse on the back side you can remove to get at , well, the back side. Ya don't have all that intercooler stuff. Ya don't have a Waste Gate. And if your lucky (SMART) you have removed the IAH already & plugged that hole. Removed the resonator box & plugged that hole. Removed (relocated to free air) the CCV line & plugged that hole.
So i'm (guessing) this is ONE job that must be 5 times easier on a Van? What say all you??
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it.
Great vid
Thank you!
How about spraying the clamps with penatrating oil a day before trying to remove them.
Your video made this a very doable job. Also would this be a good time to replace the valve cover gskts. When the turbo was off. Since I've had the injector harness plug come loose in the driver's side valve cover.
Thank's again
Thank you for watching! Yes penetrating oil is good on the clamps before removal, just keep it in mind that you did that when you fire it up and see a little smoke. Changing out the VC gaskets is good here too as you said, just easier to get to everything.
@Thoroughbred Diesel
Wade, I have a '97 and are looks deceiving me to think I can pull the compressor housing without pulling turbo out of the truck?
I will be doing a fuel pump R&R though may as well do it all at once. ???
What is the ball park cost for you guys to perform this service parts and labor. I am wanting to do the exact same thing on my 99 with the blank turbo pedestal, new seals and bolts .
Thanks
We don't work on public vehicles. You'll have to contact a local shop.
Lots of PB blaster before attempting this job
Outstanding
Thanks!
Great Stuff. Thankyou
Glad you enjoyed it! You're welcome!
How much oil should be in intake horn normally? Everyone says you’re going to have oil in there. So how much is to much oil?
Can you change orientation of the down pipe Y clamp where the bolt is facing up so that it’s easier to get to ?
That’s what we do here, we point it East West so that you can access it beater.
Thanks, I’m having a hell of a time getting the up pipe manifold in. I’ve tried almost everything to get it lined up and the clamp on.
Wade, I was very intimidated by the thought of the process. My son and I together got the turbo, pedestal and cleaned up the junk & muck on top of engine in 3 hrs. (With a water break in there. My son cleaned up the top of engine, it looked green like antifreeze and some oil sludge. Not sure where to turn from here. All of the tubes had oil in them, engine had been idle for about 3 mos., any suggestions or what to look for?!? Thanks Again for a great video!
Good information I have a 7/98 built date do I have to order the early 99 pedestal?
7/98 is early 99, yes.
Great video! What watch and what case is that? I don't wear one because im afraid ill breaking it the first 5 minutes of work like my phone.
Right on
How do you prime the turbo? I put a new one on and i dont think it is getting oil?
friend I have a super duty 2006 I pass water to the oil do you think it is possible the pure cooler is little the water that has passed
Do a oil analysis and look for bearing material, if none you should be ok.
Any chance you could do a GTP38r install with dyno comparison from stock? It would be great to see it compared to the WW and stock.
‘02 Excursion. When I add the pedestal with the EBPV delete, is the any benefit to removing the EBP tube and sensor? Also plug the hole in the manifold where the tube was connected?
Need to prelube turbo and prime oil line ? Sticker on my new turbo says to...suggestions how ?
Add new engine oil to the oil feed hole and turn shaft by hand to lubricate bearings. It will run through to the return so you cant fill it, just use good sense here.
I have a 2000 7.3 powerstroke it loses a lot of oil if the turbo pedestal is bad would it cause it to burn more oil
What is the best turbo to use on a 2000 7.3 F350 dully
Depends on what you are wanting? Power? Better daily driver? Better Towing?
What size clamps did you use because they're both different sizes.. please..the ones I ordered are too small to get over the ridges..
How do I remove a Banks exhaust brake from my 02 F250. I need to get the valve cover off and that exhaust brake is right on the downpipe next to the turbo
that back clamp is a nightmare... i should have just taken it into a shop and let them deal with the headache
I just completed this job...but when I got in to start it. My glow plugs aren't working. And I can't get it to start. Any ideas
hello i’m trying to install a new turbo wheel and i don’t want to take the whole turbo out. i’ve gotten everything out of the way but i just can’t get the bottom 2 bolts of the housing. is there any tool i should use or a trick or a certain angle to get it at? trying to finish it today
How do you pre lube before install
We add clean 15W-40 to the turbo when we install through the feed hole.
I was curious as to what type of pin holds the butterfly valve on the bottom of the turbo
Would oil in the intercooler tube usually indicate a bad turbo?
Not always. The 7.3 has a PVC dump into the intake of the turbo so it is processing oil through the intercooler (small amounts). If the engine has EXCESSIVE blow by, take to someone and have them take a look.
@@thoroughbreddiesel Thank you!! So far she runs good, just got a little scared when I had to take off the intercooler tube to replace a steering line.
my stock pedestal has a sensor plug on it but the epv delete pedestal obviously doesn't have one. any ideas on what to do with it?
BOUGHT A 7.3 02 - UNFORTUNATELY FROM PREVIOUS OWNER HAD AN ACCIDENT - AND PASS SIDE OF BLOCK MOUNTING HAS BEEN SHEARED OFF ! THE 1ST MOUNTING BRACKET ON BLOCK !😭😭. WONDERING IF POSSIBILITY OF REATTACH ING THE 1ST BRACKET ONTO BLOCK ? WONDERING IF IT'S POSSIBLE TO DO THAT ? CAUSE I HAVE NO OTHER ONE - TOO POOR TO BY ANOTHER ONE !😭😭😭😭. 350 - 7.3 .
Where are they located so that I can change the turbo to my truck?
Did you happen to know where you got the pound hammer I couldn’t find it online
I need help, idiot dropped a bolt into the engine valley and I can't find it. Where did it go and what do I do now?????
This is my first diesel ... What is the eb?
What type of lube did you use on the orings?
A general purpose grease we keep here at the shop.
@@thoroughbreddiesel 👍
Do you have this on a 1994-1999?
Pretty much the same process but with a little more room.