FOR YOU GUYS WHO DONT BELIVE THE PISTONS CRACK.... watch this video ua-cam.com/video/nyep-qnAZ6A/v-deo.html If you can see they upgraded them WHY IF THEY WERE SO GOOD?
Just bought an 02 F-450 Dually off a mechanic friend who acquired it on a lien for a steal. With the price of new work trucks/work vans - I don’t mind putting 10-15k into it to make it a super reliable company truck
Not the best but definitely a runner up the 5.9 Cummins is the best motor ever made the v8 design is Fundamentally flawed unbalanced the in-line six is a masterpiece of engineering
Wrap your manifolds up pipes and down pipe and turbine with a good exhaust wrap, it does 2 things first it keeps the heat in the pipes allowing the exhaust to flow better by not bleeding off the heat in the pipe and cooling effecting the flow of the hot exhaust gasses. Second it keeps residual heat from going into the engine bay roasting your precious o rings!
Good video with great advice but, just fyi You can not "burn up" a 7.3l Powerstroke by running it out of oil. The fuel system is actually driven by the high pressure oiling system. When a 7.3l gets about 1.5-1.75 gallons low the engine will starve for fuel and die. Then crank and crank and crank but not start due to no fuel. Ask me how I know😅
thanks man some of the haters also have good info I call them constructive criticism. Some have not so good info that I dont agree with. happy thanksgiving to you too
ONE THING YOU CAN DO FOR BAD STARTING is , on each head -- front and back the is a place to put equalizer ports for the fuel , four steel lines come to the filter housing , another is check the oil pressure at you high pressure oil pump .
Two items you need to know about on your 7.3 Over time the injector electrical connectors under the valve covers will start to separate then you have several cylinders not firing. Simple fix. Remove valve covers push the connectors back together and put a couple small zip ties to hold them together. Under your fuel filter you will notice a threaded plug pointing to the back off the motor. Driving through the middle of Texas in the middle of nowhere this plug backed out a hair and was blowing oil everywhere. A 5/8” socket gently tighten it up and was able to limp it to a campground and ordered the seal kit from Ford was back up and running. Both of these fixes were told to me by my friend a Ford diesel mechanic by saying the symptoms over the phone.
Another good one is to swap out the upper radiator hose for the dual alternator one that route around behind the belt instead of thru it so you don’t have to drain antifreeze to change out the belt
Thanks, I love my 7.3 I’m about to hit 300k and the only problems I had so far it’s the crank position sensor and the water release valve on top of the fuel, I have a check engine light on now, and the scanner says is gonna be my glow plugs, so looking into that very soon. Always do my filters and lube... never miss one.
Appreciate this video. U just got a 1999 f250 and have the oil leaking at the pedestal. Debating whether its a job i take on or take it somewhere. Also having a power stearing fluid leak i havent pin pointed yet. Slowed it way down by replacing a line, the cap to resorvoir and a fee bottles of lucas, but it still needs topped off every week.
Kudos to you for having a good engine grounds. The strap on the passenger lifting eye, and your cable from AC unit to battery negative. Good call on those!!
I think there should be an agreement between publishers that says IF you don't know what you are talking about you shouldn't be able to publish anything.1.) Damn dude It is a Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBPV) you installed a pedestal with out the EBPV!!! 2.) the pistons will NOT crack from using the truck under constant load its a problem from using starting fluid
Could you refer me to a few good UA-cam video for maintening a powerstroke. I'll try to go with powerstrokehelp channel as the basis for my maintenance. What do you guys think??? Tks for your answers guys.
When its cold out your glow plugs stay lit for a maximum of 120 seconds you should get a good voltmeter that plugs into the cigarette lighter so you can watch the voltage jump back up when the relay kicks off. or you can wire a led light from the relay to the cabin that way you know the glow plugs have completely cycled off. In the summer time they dont need to cycle so you can put the glow plugs on a switch so they don't come on when they dont neccesarily have to. Also upgrade your grounds from the alternator to the battery to the body that way the passenger side battery shares the grunt of the work with the main battery. It will also extend the life of your alternator
Actually that 7.3 is a much better Diesel engine than that Chevy diesel you have. ... and the new F250 6.7s are probably the most comfortable, best performing, diesel trucks on the road. I’ve driven the Chevy and the Ford 6.7 for work, I own a 7.3😉
Get a stancor/white rodgers glow plug relay. Its one of the only aftermarket sensor/part you should upgrade to, that relay is a lot more stout/beefier part than the original equipment piece.
Look am not a haterbut cracked piston from hauling weight. Well my 97 7.3 zf5 speed 4.10 rearend with 1.4 million miles and no blow by. I haul heavy 5 days a week. Shit i still have the ordinal glow plugs
Lol, really...? I believe your claim of 1.4 million miles, but come on man, original glow plugs in a 23 year old truck 😉 I drive a 99 F250 six-speed extend cab, she’s a baby... only 170,000 miles
Yes plan stock original glow plugs. Yes i use my stock plug in block heater for winter months here in northern Indiana. Motor lasted longer than the trans. And 5 clutches. Had to put new rear end last year. I love the 7.3. Change oil and filters. Fix stuff as soon as shows up ans they will last a million miles.
From my past experience with the 7.3l engine, the injector o-ring usually will need replacement when your engine gets to about 150K mileage give or take. The o-ring deteriorate due to the high pressures in the system and engine heat. Also you must use the correct engine oil and it is helpful to use Ford Motorcraft Anti-Foaming additive at each oil change. The other common issue is the valve cover gaskets have wiring harness connectors in them for the injectors and glow plugs, these will burn out over time due to the high amperage draw of the glow plugs.
I just got a 99 f350 dually extended cab 7.3 200k miles good clean body the bottom of the 3rd doors are rusted fairly good but the under body is surface nothing bad especially for wisco never done serious pulling other then a bed camper for $1000 off an older lady the oil pan is shot and pisses oil and the rear differential leaks a bit but it runs strong no clicks clacks it’s a solid truck and for a grand I think it was a pretty damn good deal I plan just a wicked wheel tuner chip intake and maybe some better flowing exhaust and I think that’s all I’ll do with it I don’t know shit on these trucks what are some of your thoughts on these things I hear this is a harder to find body style
You said it but absolutely don’t know that your fuel pressure is dependent on your oil pressure so if you run to low on oil the motor will just shut off
Yes it is and its in the million mile club so its pretty damn reliable considering the epa bullshit . It definitely doesnt suck idk what he's talking about 🤷♂️
The "flapper" is the E.B.V. Exhaust Back pressure Valve. You changed it to the Non E.B.V Pedal. You have alot of learning to do, all of us do. They are called Up pipes . I have never ever used starting fluid and It is true, years of heavy pulling and heat will crack pistons. It happened to my 7.3. I crack one piston. Totally my fault for pulling too much weight. I always try to keep the EGT's below 1200 degrees, but it still happened. Heat kills. Now it's all built up the right way and doing great.
Do preventative maintenance but don't monkey with the monkey. Chip and tune at your own risk. Heat kills these engines. Chips and tunes create heat. Infer.
believe me if I could afford to get another duramax with a versalift which are almost non existent I would surely do so. In fact I am selling this powerstroke truck and using a duramax to pull the towable boom lift. My buddy who tows for a living a 32 foot enclosed switched to duramax and low an behold 70k miles later He would never never go back again 370 miles duramax truck pulling every day all his problems went away. . Just saying. it is what it is.
4 gallons..! minus 1 qt. and you can't burn the motor up just from blowing some your oil out due to a ruptured line. cuz once it loses about half of the oil it will not run. period. because there's no oil for the injectors. the valve train might suffer a bit and the high pressure pump might see excessive wear or fail completely, but you're not likely to spin a bearing or throw a rod or anything like that.
i have a 1993 7.3 idi (live at the beach. 2nd body is a RUST BUCKET,every thing is worn out) and a 2000 power stroke. The powerstroke frustrates me as there are many more little (wtf) things that are / could be the problem. I guess the idi has just been a friend to me longer. bought it used in 1995 with 51k on it. It's more like s tractor! Newer one was purchased in 2018 with only 107k and was garage kept and sweet! Can't explain it but you can't treat the 2000 the same ? I'm a carpenter who was a framing subcontractor that put the truck on the beach to work, fish and surf. Newer body won't take that lifestyle. Powerstroke left me in the middle of a turning lane in july( tourist trafgic) in 100 degree heat. The problem didn't exist on the old idi. Some can't understand how i love the old idi better! Both manuals but yhe old one has a true bench seat. thak you gor your very informative video!
NO starting fluid on my truck......SO think again. No over fueling no black smoke..... so tell me another story. AND why did the new pistons from MAHLE have wayyyyyy more meat on them if they were not having problems...
@@evadevries2952 yea that is my bet Maybe thius was a one year or 6 month only problem. or could it be early direct injection engines. IDI 7.3 are different and last forever.
Like the last comment you had but you don’t know what you’re talking about not to be on remain 7.3 is hydraulic and electric injectors the high-pressure oil pump if you get down a gallon or low or shall I start chugging like almost like a big radical camshaft in a gas motor and you get down much lower and that it won’t run at all because The high-pressure oil pump will not make enough pressure to fire the injector so your engine will die before you spin a bearing that’s one of the reasons decisions almost bulletproof
Hey thanks for posting this. My outside vent always seems to blow warmer than outside air temperatures. I thought that was just the result of poor engineering. Could that be caused by the vacuum pump you pointed out?
probably the blend door is not closing. another issue on most ford pickups and suvs. There are some videos out on how to do it I watched them and cut a hole in the side of mine on my dads explorer. then patched it with foil tape as a short cut. sorry I wasnt making videos then
Hey, From now on, I'll do my own maintenance on my new ''used'' shuttle bus 2000 with a 7.3 powerstroke. I bought it 2 years ago, but it's been running only once in a while on my own farm land, just to get it running at least once in a while (lack of time). I have 2 young kids and I want to use it as much as possible for rv during winter. Winter is really quiet for me cause my job is really slow, so I can visit family or travel a lot. I got a pretty strong background in mecanic (DIY). So could you refer me to a few good UA-cam video for maintening a powerstroke. I'll try to go with powerstrokehelp channel as the basis for my maintenance. What do you guys think??? Tks for your answers guys.
Look up powerstroke Ron (R.I.P.). HE WAS THE GURU OF THE 7.3 POWERSTROKE. I learned more about how the 7.3 works and act's when something is amidst (wrong) then any other channel. Powerstroke help would be my second choice. May Ron rest in peace, he will be truly missed. One word of advice, go online and order you a good ELM Bluetooth adapter for your OBD2 plug in under your dash and download car gauge pro from the App store. These 2 things will allow you to read all your sensors, ( ie: H-pop pressure, oil temp, ICP duty cycle, trans temp, boost, etc.. ) along with reading your DTC'S (diagnostic trouble codes), clearing the DTC'S and check engine light. You can also run a BUZZ test on your injectors, run a cylinder contribution test, do real time data logging on the motor too. It's really a must have if you're going to be working on your 7.3 yourself and keep it in top notch running order.
If you want long gibbet I out of the 73 I suggest you do a few other things one as you change out your air filter to either K & N or S&B Then go to insane Diesel and get there oil bypass filter witch holes down to 1 Micron and also get BD diesel CCV mod with filter and oil catch can this will keep oil out of turbo and intercooler these 3 mods will cost between $850 to a $1000 o have all 3non mine and they work very well with the insane oil filter you only have to change the oil every 15,000 miles it does a very good job of keeping oil clean I changed my oil 3000 ago and still can seen through it
A friend of mine is a diesel mechanic and he said these engines will go a 1,000,000 miles if well taken care of I have installed a bypass oil filter from Insane diesel it goes down to 1 micron this help keep oil cleaner and you only need to change oil every 15,000 miles it costs about $500 I have also installed a BD CCV mod kit to keep oil out of turbo and intercooler easy install costs about $400 and I also use Hotshotz oil additive this will help with stiction build up unlike in a gas engine you can not add flammable engine cleaner and this is not something you and when changing oil this is an oil additive like Lucas oil additive the first time you use this you need to add a 64oz bottle run for 10,000 miles before changing oil I I did this twice kist because it had never been done before after first use you only need to add 32oz at oil change everyone has there own option on changing HPOP reservoir oil i have done twice it is a lengthy job empty reservoir add fresh oil need to do this 5 times to get all old oil out of the HPOP system i only do this once a year for the transmission I have added Hotshotz trans additives and added a trans cooler with fan under and a new trans pan with cooling fine these two together add mose transmission fluid to you transmission heat is your worst enemy for your trans
Hope fully it lasts past 500,000 kms as my 96 7.3 did and is still going strong with not a lot of money put into it. You'll see then if the 6.7 is as reliable and cost efficient as the 7.3.
Explain this Truck has never seen starting fluid.... so throw that one out..... Never over fueled... NO black smoke until the day it cracked a piston which happened first....and still running the same injectors with no issue..... Mahle updated the piston castings.....WHY WHY DID THEY DO THAT.... for the hell of it.... NOPE they have had issues... Just saying..
uhhhhh I have several guys who have had MAJOR issues with that engine. depends on the year for each of them The most recent was the sewing machine noise that broke all his valve train that was suppose to be a NORMAL noise. He bought a duramax now and has no more problems....This was the last straw after several major issues.
I would buy a chevy. My buddy just gave back his 6.7 totally fraged. lifters failed rocker arms broken and DEF system failed 9000 repair just for that. Flames came out the exhaust.
Can't say 6.7's are the best, they just haven't been out long enough to determine the longevity and reliability of the engine for the long term. ( ie: million miles plus 22 years of service like the 7.3's ) They are good engine's, nevertheless we still have to wait and see if any catastrophic weak points show up down the line, say like 3-500,000 mile mark.
it always amuses me to hear these "all other diesels besides my diesel suck" arguments. whether its the 7.3 guys hating on 6.0s 6.4s 6.7s etc or LLY Duramax guys hating on the LB7s or 12 valve cummins guys hating on 24 valves. all diesels have pros and cons. strengths and weaknesses. some you can neglect, some you have to maintain more. the best diesel is the one that you personally like.
Truck would probably run better if your MAP sensor/hose was properly plugged in... also what's up with the shitty weak clamp connecting spider to turbo? That should be a V-clamp.
@@Mikefngarage no, it's one of the ones that comes on the air hose to turbo housing or the intake plenums. You know the one with the flathead that's rage inducing to try and do so most people use a #8 socket? It's one of those.
I'm guessing someone was trying to remove the V clamp and it was being a stuck piece of shit like they tend to do and someone let the hate flow through them and pulverized the clamp with either a prybar or hammer until it released/broke. It's OK, I can totally sympathize... my up pipe to turbo one was stuck and when I finally got it off I wanted to douse it in lighter fluid and set it ablaze 😂
I live in Canada an engine is commonly called a motor and the same in lot's of the USA. I grew up in the U.K where a motor was electric, and anything using fuel was an engine. Lots of things use different words to describe them here, like a brake disc is a brake rotor. mud guards on a tractor are fenders, tire is not spelled tyre like in the U.K either .
sorry to bother, I put new o rings in my hpop and new lines. 2000 7.3 t truck had a no start found a blown fuse maxi number twenty four. replaced fired up, ran for five mins, reved it and it died. No start after that. checked everything could find nothing. finally I noticed on the directions for the new lines and cross over line, it mentioned to discard the springs and check valve under fittings for lines on pump. seems the new fittings are different inner diameter and the springs don't fit in the fittings like on the original. I belive by not changing the springs and valves, that I may have literally torqued the spring down when I installed the oil line fittings. This is a three hose kit with bolt on hoses not snap on. Anyway I checked ipr, looks great , not sticking from what I can tell , I pushed on the piece in the center while spraying with brake fluid and id didn't seem to stick at all and seemed to open and close the ports as I would expect. I did a test on the solenoid for ipr it had an ohm reading of 11.3. I just now removed the spring poppet check valves. Have you ever had a problem like this? any suggestions? my resibour is full, i also removed the icp sensor and turned it over prior to removing spring poppets and it was just barely any oil coming like a half quart max on a long crank with that icp sensor removed. i also ran 12 volts directly to ipr and turned over no start. My theory is i basically dead headed the pump by bolting down those fittings with the spring poppets in. I haven't attempted re start yeti thought i would attempt to confer with you first . thanks a lot
UHHH CP4 that cannot be converted to cp3. early turbo problems Ceramic bearings, LIfters collapse....DPF plug ups. There are too many to list. My buddy who hauls for a living finally bought a Duramax 2 years ago and all his problems went away put over 200k miles on it already has 400k miles..... just saying.
Cracked pistons?? My cousin has tuned and he runs the crap out of his 7.3 and hasn't had any major issues and he's about to 500k miles. Also my uncle has 2. They pull goosenecks with cattle and only had injector trouble. One has 560k miles and thats the one with injector work. The other is bout to 300k and really aint had any engine problems. He had some fuel leak but no biggie
I think it is more for quicker warm up. The exhaust flapper. Many guys remove that because it restricts flow after it is warm I dont know how it would make it start better when cold. That would be the glow plugs or injector oil pump pressure.
@@Mikefngarage If you choke the exhaust, it increases the combustion chamber pressure in the up stroke which increases air temperature to start combustion. Have you ever heard of people stuffing a rag in the tail pipe to get a cold diesel started?
@@norman_sage2528 IMO super bad R and D. why does every other diesel start up easily only the My other truck with a duramax started up at 3 degrees first crank no block heater same compression ratio. Many people are taking that thing off and it does increase HP. Another fail of the Intertrashional diesel.
with it on or off my that truck still requires more cranking than any other diesel I have ever owned. Never had a cold start issue and I have had several never needed to put anything over the exhaust of any truck I had only fords.
Except this yea D-max would grenade the fuel pump and ruin the entire fuel system about every 30,000 miles. Then you want to talk new D-Max, GM is currently being sued for their shitty transmission. I’ve seen many 4R100’s last 350,000+ miles without ever doing anything to the trans.
seeing lots of 6.7 with issues. My buddy has a 6.7 that had the sewing machine issue and it ended up being a huge job needs new lifters and rocker arms. Lifters, fuel high pressure issues, DPF DEF plug ups at 9000 to repair. He ended up giving it back to the bank and getting a duramax. Now his issues are over.
@@Mikefngarage Bullsh!t My Brother Has A 2002 7.3Powerstroke & A 2008 Duaramax. His 7.3 Is Far & Beyond His Pick For Towing & Less Issues He's Had A Ton Of Issues With The D-Max & Not A Problem With The 7.3. 500k Miles On The Ford & 380k On The Chevy. That Chevy Has Been A Pain In The Ass. Wheel Bearings, Brake Rotors, Radiators, Water Pumps, You Are Fully Delusional.
Me looking to maintain my 20 year old truck. This guy that doesn’t know a thing about diesels: “this thingy here goes bad, so does this little flapper deal, anyways buy a duramax, fords are trash, still don’t know what I’m talking about.”
Mike, you started out by eschewing engine mods and practically swore an oath to keep it factory AND THEN PROCEEDED TO SHOW US THE NON- FACTORY PARTS YOU INSTALLED INSTEAD...what up man?
This guy clearly has not idea what hes talking about. Ive never had a issue 4r100 transmission even with adding more power to my truck. They are solid transmission. And btw if you only have 3 gallons of oil in your 7.3 your super low on oil. And injectors on the motor are just fine.
YOU HAVE TO CHANGE TOP END OIL IF YOU WANT HIGH MILEAGE OUT OF YOUR INJECTORS ...3 qts of top end oil is only topped off but never drains at oil changes so eventually you have tons of carbon in your top end oil being used to hydrophilic open your injectors causing severe wear @ @ @
Changing that .75 in the oil reservoir is a waste of time, it only amounts to about 5% of the total oil volume. There's always 2 quarts left in the heads which cannot be changed out anyway regardless of what you do. Just change your engine oil every 5k with quality oil and you'll be fine.
Your pistons don't crack from heavy polling they crack from the heat because you're not letting your engine cool or you're running too high RPM or speed up the Hill everybody tries to go fast up the Hill which gets all that Exhaust temperature up there and that's what causes your cracks with these engines any large engine that you're pulling read once you stop you need to let it cool down for 10 or 15 minutes because you can melt your Turbo blades and you can Other parts people forget sometimes that these engines are not all steal your pistons are aluminum there's other aluminum parts and their and their steel in the all of they heat up and cool down in different ways woman heats up faster steel heats up slower steel will hold the heat aluminum will cool off faster
Yeah Maybe From All That Dumbass "Keeping It Stock" Shit He Does... You Have To Reduce Exhaust EGT's On Damn Near Every Diesel. & Keeping A Stock Exhaust Doesn't Help With Lowering EGT's
brain dead New Yorker this engine is kinda the exception to fords being shit. But largely agreed. 3.8 v6 was solid, not a strong perforner but hard to break. 5.4 bar job the worst engine ive had though
I have to disagree. The first thing you do is get the hell out of New York. Second, buy a big ass 164 oz. super mofo sized nectar of the gods soft drink. Third, get a Ford 7.3 Excursion (aka: Exxon-Valdez, King of the SUV’s) to haul your big ass soft drink and live the American way with a middle finger pointed toward New York or Commifornia at all times. The 7.3 Excursion is the greatest vehicle ever made! America F Yeah!!!
FOR YOU GUYS WHO DONT BELIVE THE PISTONS CRACK.... watch this video ua-cam.com/video/nyep-qnAZ6A/v-deo.html
If you can see they upgraded them WHY IF THEY WERE SO GOOD?
When you said you didn't mod, you got my full attention. So tired of these guys with SDS doing nothing but mod vids.
Thank you.
Best motor ever made. Mine has half a million and all original and worked every day of its life. 01 7.tree
Mine only has 400k...has a fuel issue, stutterscand will quit when going up hill ....still trying to figure it out....but a gray truck!
Check filters in tank
@@clintwarwick4116 this
Just bought an 02 F-450 Dually off a mechanic friend who acquired it on a lien for a steal.
With the price of new work trucks/work vans - I don’t mind putting 10-15k into it to make it a super reliable company truck
Not the best but definitely a runner up the 5.9 Cummins is the best motor ever made the v8 design is Fundamentally flawed unbalanced the in-line six is a masterpiece of engineering
Wrap your manifolds up pipes and down pipe and turbine with a good exhaust wrap, it does 2 things first it keeps the heat in the pipes allowing the exhaust to flow better by not bleeding off the heat in the pipe and cooling effecting the flow of the hot exhaust gasses. Second it keeps residual heat from going into the engine bay roasting your precious o rings!
Good video with great advice but, just fyi You can not "burn up" a 7.3l Powerstroke by running it out of oil. The fuel system is actually driven by the high pressure oiling system. When a 7.3l gets about 1.5-1.75 gallons low the engine will starve for fuel and die. Then crank and crank and crank but not start due to no fuel. Ask me how I know😅
My 7.3 has 320K running strong, changed injector cups and injectors. Runs like a champ.
Never ceases to amaze me how that corrugated plastic hose and wiring covering will rub through the aluminum intake tubes...
😂 I'm almost there! Unbelievable!!
Great vid! You helped clarify some things for me!
Appreciate you taking the time to do this. Sorry for all the haters, but I learned from them too. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family.
thanks man some of the haters also have good info I call them constructive criticism. Some have not so good info that I dont agree with. happy thanksgiving to you too
ONE THING YOU CAN DO FOR BAD STARTING is , on each head -- front and back the is a place to put equalizer ports for the fuel , four steel lines come to the filter housing , another is check the oil pressure at you high pressure oil pump .
I am Sooooo Thankful for my 99 F350 7.3. LOVE that ole FORD TRUCK. Thanks for the video. AWESOME
Two items you need to know about on your 7.3
Over time the injector electrical connectors under the valve covers will start to separate then you have several cylinders not firing. Simple fix. Remove valve covers push the connectors back together and put a couple small zip ties to hold them together.
Under your fuel filter you will notice a threaded plug pointing to the back off the motor. Driving through the middle of Texas in the middle of nowhere this plug backed out a hair and was blowing oil everywhere.
A 5/8” socket gently tighten it up and was able to limp it to a campground and ordered the seal kit from Ford was back up and running.
Both of these fixes were told to me by my friend a Ford diesel mechanic by saying the symptoms over the phone.
good to have those buddies on speed dial.
Never had anything like this happen
Donaldson makes valve cover gaskets with wiring that plugs in outside of the valve cover gaskets . Well worth the couple hundred bucks to do it
Sounds like your talking about the IPR. They do tend to leak over time and can be rebuilt (often) with a a kit. Been there done that.
@@user-eg8hb8xt3j got a link or part number for those?
Another good one is to swap out the upper radiator hose for the dual alternator one that route around behind the belt instead of thru it so you don’t have to drain antifreeze to change out the belt
Then belt goes and take your hose with? Seems like a downgrade to me
One of the first things I did on my 7.3
It seems a bit over the top nonsense i never noticed draining that much
Agreed! Simple.
Change out the thermostat housing too
The tire iron is killing me 😂
This video is very good learned alot thanks
Thanks, I love my 7.3 I’m about to hit 300k and the only problems I had so far it’s the crank position sensor and the water release valve on top of the fuel, I have a check engine light on now, and the scanner says is gonna be my glow plugs, so looking into that very soon. Always do my filters and lube... never miss one.
Its not a crank position sensor its a cam shaft position sensor
You got water on fuel there's no valve for that likely your injector cups are shot
Appreciate this video. U just got a 1999 f250 and have the oil leaking at the pedestal. Debating whether its a job i take on or take it somewhere. Also having a power stearing fluid leak i havent pin pointed yet. Slowed it way down by replacing a line, the cap to resorvoir and a fee bottles of lucas, but it still needs topped off every week.
Kudos to you for having a good engine grounds. The strap on the passenger lifting eye, and your cable from AC unit to battery negative. Good call on those!!
Change your belts on your truck mister 7.3 ! love the content 👌
Had to stop a 1/4 of the way, to read the comments for this mechanic/ DIY guy, I knew the comments was going to grill him lol
too bad lots of good information in this video...
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. Cheers brotha.
Id put money on the 7.3 outlasting the duramax long term.
I think there should be an agreement between publishers that says IF you don't know what you are talking about you shouldn't be able to publish anything.1.) Damn dude It is a Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBPV) you installed a pedestal with out the EBPV!!! 2.) the pistons will NOT crack from using the truck under constant load its a problem from using starting fluid
What about the down tube?
Ahem...
An exhaust back pressure ..
Could you refer me to a few good UA-cam video for maintening a powerstroke. I'll try to go with powerstrokehelp channel as the basis for my maintenance. What do you guys think??? Tks for your answers guys.
cambobby2011 that’s the best Man& channel .
The ebpv isn’t really important it just helps the engine get up to operating temps faster
I am going to change out my injectors I have 873000 miles on my 7.3
No way! Seriously?
When its cold out your glow plugs stay lit for a maximum of 120 seconds you should get a good voltmeter that plugs into the cigarette lighter so you can watch the voltage jump back up when the relay kicks off. or you can wire a led light from the relay to the cabin that way you know the glow plugs have completely cycled off. In the summer time they dont need to cycle so you can put the glow plugs on a switch so they don't come on when they dont neccesarily have to. Also upgrade your grounds from the alternator to the battery to the body that way the passenger side battery shares the grunt of the work with the main battery. It will also extend the life of your alternator
Actually that 7.3 is a much better Diesel engine than that Chevy diesel you have. ... and the new F250 6.7s are probably the most comfortable, best performing, diesel trucks on the road. I’ve driven the Chevy and the Ford 6.7 for work, I own a 7.3😉
This Guy Is A Pure Doof... A Complete Dumbass
Gm sucks . They needed a bailout for a reason lol . With every gm purchase you also get an Obama phone 🤣
@@dieselnut2369gmt800 lbz are quite the prize
Get a stancor/white rodgers glow plug relay. Its one of the only aftermarket sensor/part you should upgrade to, that relay is a lot more stout/beefier part than the original equipment piece.
My 2000 7.3 has 420K , I've replaced a few parts but nothing major. Most dependable truck ever!!!!
Look am not a haterbut cracked piston from hauling weight. Well my 97 7.3 zf5 speed 4.10 rearend with 1.4 million miles and no blow by. I haul heavy 5 days a week. Shit i still have the ordinal glow plugs
Lol, really...? I believe your claim of 1.4 million miles, but come on man, original glow plugs in a 23 year old truck 😉
I drive a 99 F250 six-speed extend cab, she’s a baby... only 170,000 miles
Yes plan stock original glow plugs. Yes i use my stock plug in block heater for winter months here in northern Indiana. Motor lasted longer than the trans. And 5 clutches. Had to put new rear end last year. I love the 7.3. Change oil and filters. Fix stuff as soon as shows up ans they will last a million miles.
@@HarrisonCountyStudio I'm pretty sure glow plugs mostly die from firing the engine before the glow cycle is over
From my past experience with the 7.3l engine, the injector o-ring usually will need replacement when your engine gets to about 150K mileage give or take. The o-ring deteriorate due to the high pressures in the system and engine heat. Also you must use the correct engine oil and it is helpful to use Ford Motorcraft Anti-Foaming additive at each oil change. The other common issue is the valve cover gaskets have wiring harness connectors in them for the injectors and glow plugs, these will burn out over time due to the high amperage draw of the glow plugs.
Please can you list the Ford part number for the anti foaming additive...
Thank you
I have or have already repaired all those problems. Always chasing oil leaks and fuel leaks. Plenty of o rings to fail in the 7.3
yea those oil leaks really suck. But better than buying a new truck or new ford. the one you have is great for plowing. Watching you one night
You're right I've never seen so many bad O rings in my life... But I like my Ford I don't care if it's parked for repairs all the time :)
I just got a 99 f350 dually extended cab 7.3 200k miles good clean body the bottom of the 3rd doors are rusted fairly good but the under body is surface nothing bad especially for wisco never done serious pulling other then a bed camper for $1000 off an older lady the oil pan is shot and pisses oil and the rear differential leaks a bit but it runs strong no clicks clacks it’s a solid truck and for a grand I think it was a pretty damn good deal I plan just a wicked wheel tuner chip intake and maybe some better flowing exhaust and I think that’s all I’ll do with it I don’t know shit on these trucks what are some of your thoughts on these things I hear this is a harder to find body style
You said it but absolutely don’t know that your fuel pressure is dependent on your oil pressure so if you run to low on oil the motor will just shut off
The 6.7 is a beast tho...
Yes it is and its in the million mile club so its pretty damn reliable considering the epa bullshit . It definitely doesnt suck idk what he's talking about 🤷♂️
@@dieselnut2369 i agree and theyre torque monsters
engine block ground separating?
6.7s last as well my dads friends 6.7 is close to 800k miles on it original owner
DUDE 1/2 OF WHAT YOU SAID YOU DONT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT..
Hank Clingingsmith Sitting here thinking the same thing
You are right this dude dont know shit
Ha ha ford lover.....IMO the new fords are SHIT..... DURAMAX if you want a real truck.
Can you give a list of what all I need to get to do this to my truck
Right. Wtb a parts list.
Got over 400000 thousnd on mostly original parts just minor upgrades
Glow plug relay 😂have fun starting without it😆
So much for not doing mods! ;-)
All 7.3 have that green hose?
Pulling weight doesn't crack pistons
The "flapper" is the E.B.V. Exhaust Back pressure Valve. You changed it to the Non E.B.V Pedal. You have alot of learning to do, all of us do. They are called Up pipes . I have never ever used starting fluid and It is true, years of heavy pulling and heat will crack pistons. It happened to my 7.3. I crack one piston. Totally my fault for pulling too much weight. I always try to keep the EGT's below 1200 degrees, but it still happened. Heat kills. Now it's all built up the right way and doing great.
Do preventative maintenance but don't monkey with the monkey. Chip and tune at your own risk. Heat kills these engines. Chips and tunes create heat. Infer.
If the duramax is so good you should have just bought another Duramax, the 7.3 has issues but it is superior to any Duramax
believe me if I could afford to get another duramax with a versalift which are almost non existent I would surely do so. In fact I am selling this powerstroke truck and using a duramax to pull the towable boom lift. My buddy who tows for a living a 32 foot enclosed switched to duramax and low an behold 70k miles later He would never never go back again 370 miles duramax truck pulling every day all his problems went away. . Just saying. it is what it is.
4 gallons..! minus 1 qt. and you can't burn the motor up just from blowing some your oil out due to a ruptured line. cuz once it loses about half of the oil it will not run. period. because there's no oil for the injectors. the valve train might suffer a bit and the high pressure pump might see excessive wear or fail completely, but you're not likely to spin a bearing or throw a rod or anything like that.
OK well Just wait for it to break in the middle of the desert. or run your high pressure pump dry....Useless comment. IMO
Mine lost over half and brought me home still running strong at 400000 plus miles
Clearly 4 plus gallons is about all of it no engine can run that way period
A i know better cowboy at best
Really not sure of your experience on this
i have a 1993 7.3 idi (live at the beach. 2nd body is a RUST BUCKET,every thing is worn out) and a 2000 power stroke. The powerstroke frustrates me as there are many more little (wtf) things that are / could be the problem. I guess the idi has just been a friend to me longer. bought it used in 1995 with 51k on it. It's more like s tractor! Newer one was purchased in 2018 with only 107k and was garage kept and sweet! Can't explain it but you can't treat the 2000 the same ? I'm a carpenter who was a framing subcontractor that put the truck on the beach to work, fish and surf. Newer body won't take that lifestyle. Powerstroke left me in the middle of a turning lane in july( tourist trafgic) in 100 degree heat. The problem didn't exist on the old idi. Some can't understand how i love the old idi better! Both manuals but yhe old one has a true bench seat. thak you gor your very informative video!
I have a 93 idi and a 99 powerstroke. ...love em both!!! Wish I could put a turbo on the 93 someday
I look under the hood and the first thing that comes to mind is I don't want to work on that I want the dancing girls and the keys to the city
Cracks dont form cause of pulling they form by using starting fluid.
And over fueling....
NO starting fluid on my truck......SO think again. No over fueling no black smoke..... so tell me another story. AND why did the new pistons from MAHLE have wayyyyyy more meat on them if they were not having problems...
I would bet on bad casting...it happens.
@@evadevries2952 yea that is my bet Maybe thius was a one year or 6 month only problem. or could it be early direct injection engines. IDI 7.3 are different and last forever.
Where are the links to all of these
Your boots look pretty oil free. Did you reroute your crankcase vent?
Like the last comment you had but you don’t know what you’re talking about not to be on remain 7.3 is hydraulic and electric injectors the high-pressure oil pump if you get down a gallon or low or shall I start chugging like almost like a big radical camshaft in a gas motor and you get down much lower and that it won’t run at all because The high-pressure oil pump will not make enough pressure to fire the injector so your engine will die before you spin a bearing that’s one of the reasons decisions almost bulletproof
Less problems with Duramax yeah ok
Pretty sure it's the Cosby sauce that's cracking the pistons
Do the pistons crack because of high EGT from exhaust pipes that are too small?
IDK but the new ones were completely casted different. IMO there must be some bad years on that engine or production numbers.
My family has 2 7.3s and a 6.7 they are all gpod
Hey thanks for posting this. My outside vent always seems to blow warmer than outside air temperatures. I thought that was just the result of poor engineering. Could that be caused by the vacuum pump you pointed out?
probably the blend door is not closing. another issue on most ford pickups and suvs. There are some videos out on how to do it I watched them and cut a hole in the side of mine on my dads explorer. then patched it with foil tape as a short cut. sorry I wasnt making videos then
Mike Fn Garage hi mike the ground on the rear engine lifting mount did you put it there? I need to connect mine but I don’t know where it goes.
Hey, From now on, I'll do my own maintenance on my new ''used'' shuttle bus 2000 with a 7.3 powerstroke. I bought it 2 years ago, but it's been running only once in a while on my own farm land, just to get it running at least once in a while (lack of time). I have 2 young kids and I want to use it as much as possible for rv during winter. Winter is really quiet for me cause my job is really slow, so I can visit family or travel a lot. I got a pretty strong background in mecanic (DIY). So could you refer me to a few good UA-cam video for maintening a powerstroke. I'll try to go with powerstrokehelp channel as the basis for my maintenance. What do you guys think??? Tks for your answers guys.
powerstrokehelp is pretty straight up. He only does ford stuff so he is the best guy for that engine.
Look up powerstroke Ron (R.I.P.). HE WAS THE GURU OF THE 7.3 POWERSTROKE. I learned more about how the 7.3 works and act's when something is amidst (wrong) then any other channel. Powerstroke help would be my second choice. May Ron rest in peace, he will be truly missed.
One word of advice, go online and order you a good ELM Bluetooth adapter for your OBD2 plug in under your dash and download car gauge pro from the App store. These 2 things will allow you to read all your sensors, ( ie: H-pop pressure, oil temp, ICP duty cycle, trans temp, boost, etc.. ) along with reading your DTC'S (diagnostic trouble codes), clearing the DTC'S and check engine light. You can also run a BUZZ test on your injectors, run a cylinder contribution test, do real time data logging on the motor too. It's really a must have if you're going to be working on your 7.3 yourself and keep it in top notch running order.
Tks guys. I watched some of his videos before he passed away. A really nice guy. I'll watch these again. Tks.
U say ur 7.3 is cold blooded at 20 degrees mine fires right up no plugging it in and I cycle the glow plugs twice
If you want long gibbet I out of the 73 I suggest you do a few other things one as you change out your air filter to either K & N or S&B Then go to insane Diesel and get there oil bypass filter witch holes down to 1 Micron and also get BD diesel CCV mod with filter and oil catch can this will keep oil out of turbo and intercooler these 3 mods will cost between $850 to a $1000 o have all 3non mine and they work very well with the insane oil filter you only have to change the oil every 15,000 miles it does a very good job of keeping oil clean I changed my oil 3000 ago and still can seen through it
Don't give up your regular job, Get a FORD MANUEL and read it, So you know what the hell things are.....DUH !
A friend of mine is a diesel mechanic and he said these engines will go a 1,000,000 miles if well taken care of I have installed a bypass oil filter from Insane diesel it goes down to 1 micron this help keep oil cleaner and you only need to change oil every 15,000 miles it costs about $500 I have also installed a BD CCV mod kit to keep oil out of turbo and intercooler easy install costs about $400 and I also use Hotshotz oil additive this will help with stiction build up unlike in a gas engine you can not add flammable engine cleaner and this is not something you and when changing oil this is an oil additive like Lucas oil additive the first time you use this you need to add a 64oz bottle run for 10,000 miles before changing oil I I did this twice kist because it had never been done before after first use you only need to add 32oz at oil change everyone has there own option on changing HPOP reservoir oil i have done twice it is a lengthy job empty reservoir add fresh oil need to do this 5 times to get all old oil out of the HPOP system i only do this once a year for the transmission I have added Hotshotz trans additives and added a trans cooler with fan under and a new trans pan with cooling fine these two together add mose transmission fluid to you transmission heat is your worst enemy for your trans
How many miles did your truck have when your replaced the lines that go to the heads
180
@@Mikefngarage wow that’s crazy!! I figured they would at passed 200k! Years later this video still helping, thank you!
@@caseyp76 really ugly when they go and no warning. no place to buy new ones either. best to do it on a maintenance level ASAP.
@@Mikefngarage yes sir absolutely! Thank you for in the info! 🙏
The 6.7 especially post 2017 are great motors with the modern bullshit accounted for
The 6.7 doesn't suck
I drive a 6.7 and a 7.3 daily and the 6.7 is way better in every way possible
The 2019 6.7 is a beast.
Hope fully it lasts past 500,000 kms as my 96 7.3 did and is still going strong with not a lot of money put into it. You'll see then if the 6.7 is as reliable and cost efficient as the 7.3.
@@rickmunro2231 7.3 dosen't have the epa crap like 6.7
Can you give me the link to the non flapper parts for both.
amzn.to/3bkONFC
@@Mikefngarage thank you so much
Anyone that says the 6.7L sucks has never placed a finger on one. Theres a reason its been around even longer than the 7.3 was.
I feel like a 12 yr old is telling this story....cracked pistons from pulling weight are u kidding me??😲😲
Explain this Truck has never seen starting fluid.... so throw that one out..... Never over fueled... NO black smoke until the day it cracked a piston which happened first....and still running the same injectors with no issue..... Mahle updated the piston castings.....WHY WHY DID THEY DO THAT.... for the hell of it.... NOPE they have had issues... Just saying..
The 6.7s are good.
uhhhhh I have several guys who have had MAJOR issues with that engine. depends on the year for each of them The most recent was the sewing machine noise that broke all his valve train that was suppose to be a NORMAL noise. He bought a duramax now and has no more problems....This was the last straw after several major issues.
6.0 and 6.4 are good when fixed but 6.7s are the best
I would buy a chevy. My buddy just gave back his 6.7 totally fraged. lifters failed rocker arms broken and DEF system failed 9000 repair just for that. Flames came out the exhaust.
Can't say 6.7's are the best, they just haven't been out long enough to determine the longevity and reliability of the engine for the long term. ( ie: million miles plus 22 years of service like the 7.3's ) They are good engine's, nevertheless we still have to wait and see if any catastrophic weak points show up down the line, say like 3-500,000 mile mark.
it always amuses me to hear these "all other diesels besides my diesel suck" arguments. whether its the 7.3 guys hating on 6.0s 6.4s 6.7s etc or LLY Duramax guys hating on the LB7s or 12 valve cummins guys hating on 24 valves. all diesels have pros and cons. strengths and weaknesses. some you can neglect, some you have to maintain more. the best diesel is the one that you personally like.
3 gallons ?
without the HPOP
Truck would probably run better if your MAP sensor/hose was properly plugged in... also what's up with the shitty weak clamp connecting spider to turbo? That should be a V-clamp.
its a v clamp
@@Mikefngarage no, it's one of the ones that comes on the air hose to turbo housing or the intake plenums. You know the one with the flathead that's rage inducing to try and do so most people use a #8 socket? It's one of those.
I'm guessing someone was trying to remove the V clamp and it was being a stuck piece of shit like they tend to do and someone let the hate flow through them and pulverized the clamp with either a prybar or hammer until it released/broke.
It's OK, I can totally sympathize... my up pipe to turbo one was stuck and when I finally got it off I wanted to douse it in lighter fluid and set it ablaze 😂
FYI people who dont believe the pistons crack WHY WOULD THEY UPGRADE THEM CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO ua-cam.com/video/nyep-qnAZ6A/v-deo.html
IT'S not a MOTOR ! It's an ENGINE !
I live in Canada an engine is commonly called a motor and the same in lot's of the USA. I grew up in the U.K where a motor was electric, and anything using fuel was an engine. Lots of things use different words to describe them here, like a brake disc is a brake rotor. mud guards on a tractor are fenders, tire is not spelled tyre like in the U.K either .
It's a truck made by Ford Motor Company...pound sand boomer
sorry to bother, I put new o rings in my hpop and new lines. 2000 7.3 t truck had a no start found a blown fuse maxi number twenty four. replaced fired up, ran for five mins, reved it and it died. No start after that. checked everything could find nothing. finally I noticed on the directions for the new lines and cross over line, it mentioned to discard the springs and check valve under fittings for lines on pump. seems the new fittings are different inner diameter and the springs don't fit in the fittings like on the original. I belive by not changing the springs and valves, that I may have literally torqued the spring down when I installed the oil line fittings. This is a three hose kit with bolt on hoses not snap on. Anyway I checked ipr, looks great , not sticking from what I can tell , I pushed on the piece in the center while spraying with brake fluid and id didn't seem to stick at all and seemed to open and close the ports as I would expect. I did a test on the solenoid for ipr it had an ohm reading of 11.3. I just now removed the spring poppet check valves. Have you ever had a problem like this? any suggestions? my resibour is full, i also removed the icp sensor and turned it over prior to removing spring poppets and it was just barely any oil coming like a half quart max on a long crank with that icp sensor removed. i also ran 12 volts directly to ipr and turned over no start. My theory is i basically dead headed the pump by bolting down those fittings with the spring poppets in. I haven't attempted re start yeti thought i would attempt to confer with you first . thanks a lot
You know any problem that cause these engines to turn but won't start
Low on oil. Either that or faulty CPS. Both simple fixes.
Ummm the 6.7L power stroke does not suck!
UHHH CP4 that cannot be converted to cp3. early turbo problems Ceramic bearings, LIfters collapse....DPF plug ups. There are too many to list. My buddy who hauls for a living finally bought a Duramax 2 years ago and all his problems went away put over 200k miles on it already has 400k miles..... just saying.
Cracked pistons?? My cousin has tuned and he runs the crap out of his 7.3 and hasn't had any major issues and he's about to 500k miles.
Also my uncle has 2. They pull goosenecks with cattle and only had injector trouble. One has 560k miles and thats the one with injector work. The other is bout to 300k and really aint had any engine problems. He had some fuel leak but no biggie
3 were cracked.....186k miles
@@Mikefngarage that must've been some other issue or something.. probably was given ether. I could see 1 cracked due to manufacturer defect but not 3
I'm pretty sure when he said towing heavy he meant high revs and frequent heat cycles which is what you get when towing actual heavy loads
EBV is for starting your engine in the cold. If you remove it, how did you expect to start easily in the cold?
I think it is more for quicker warm up. The exhaust flapper. Many guys remove that because it restricts flow after it is warm I dont know how it would make it start better when cold. That would be the glow plugs or injector oil pump pressure.
@@Mikefngarage If you choke the exhaust, it increases the combustion chamber pressure in the up stroke which increases air temperature to start combustion. Have you ever heard of people stuffing a rag in the tail pipe to get a cold diesel started?
@@Mikefngarage Batteries and starters are expensive. I like to keep my money in my pocket.
@@norman_sage2528 IMO super bad R and D. why does every other diesel start up easily only the My other truck with a duramax started up at 3 degrees first crank no block heater same compression ratio. Many people are taking that thing off and it does increase HP. Another fail of the Intertrashional diesel.
with it on or off my that truck still requires more cranking than any other diesel I have ever owned. Never had a cold start issue and I have had several never needed to put anything over the exhaust of any truck I had only fords.
Except this yea D-max would grenade the fuel pump and ruin the entire fuel system about every 30,000 miles. Then you want to talk new D-Max, GM is currently being sued for their shitty transmission. I’ve seen many 4R100’s last 350,000+ miles without ever doing anything to the trans.
Losing oil wont ki the 7.3 bud your hpop will shut down the injectors to safely stop your motor before damage
The 6.7 is a fantastic motor what are you talking about? The 6.0 is good is you fully delete it
seeing lots of 6.7 with issues. My buddy has a 6.7 that had the sewing machine issue and it ended up being a huge job needs new lifters and rocker arms. Lifters, fuel high pressure issues, DPF DEF plug ups at 9000 to repair. He ended up giving it back to the bank and getting a duramax. Now his issues are over.
@@Mikefngarage Bullsh!t My Brother Has A 2002 7.3Powerstroke & A 2008 Duaramax. His 7.3 Is Far & Beyond His Pick For Towing & Less Issues He's Had A Ton Of Issues With The D-Max & Not A Problem With The 7.3. 500k Miles On The Ford & 380k On The Chevy. That Chevy Has Been A Pain In The Ass. Wheel Bearings, Brake Rotors, Radiators, Water Pumps, You Are Fully Delusional.
@@Mikefngarage Over for now, but lots of problems later on.
Me looking to maintain my 20 year old truck.
This guy that doesn’t know a thing about diesels: “this thingy here goes bad, so does this little flapper deal, anyways buy a duramax, fords are trash, still don’t know what I’m talking about.”
170$ for hydraulic lines that I could’ve made myself for almost free
yea if you have the swedge tool you can DIY.
Why come you dont know the right names for half the parts you mentioned?
Mike, you started out by eschewing engine mods and practically swore an oath to keep it factory AND THEN PROCEEDED TO SHOW US THE NON- FACTORY PARTS YOU INSTALLED INSTEAD...what up man?
Man just said the 6.7 sucks ☠️☠️
yea especially whne the CP4 tanks. and it will believe me. does like 10 grand in damage. Cant convert it to cp3 not enough room
This guy clearly has not idea what hes talking about. Ive never had a issue 4r100 transmission even with adding more power to my truck. They are solid transmission. And btw if you only have 3 gallons of oil in your 7.3 your super low on oil. And injectors on the motor are just fine.
YOU HAVE TO CHANGE TOP END OIL IF YOU WANT HIGH MILEAGE OUT OF YOUR INJECTORS ...3 qts of top end oil is only topped off but never drains at oil changes so eventually you have tons of carbon in your top end oil being used to hydrophilic open your injectors causing severe wear
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good one IDK why they dont have a easy drain for that seems like they missed something on engineering school that day.
Finally someone said that, thats a must, if you do not change your own oil be careful of that, trust me, them oil change places will not do that,
@@jon-xq2lc how do you change top end oil
@@edwardrook8146 I have hand suction pump i use,
Changing that .75 in the oil reservoir is a waste of time, it only amounts to about 5% of the total oil volume.
There's always 2 quarts left in the heads which cannot be changed out anyway regardless of what you do.
Just change your engine oil every 5k with quality oil and you'll be fine.
Bruh, half of what you said makes 0 sense
Your pistons don't crack from heavy polling they crack from the heat because you're not letting your engine cool or you're running too high RPM or speed up the Hill everybody tries to go fast up the Hill which gets all that Exhaust temperature up there and that's what causes your cracks with these engines any large engine that you're pulling read once you stop you need to let it cool down for 10 or 15 minutes because you can melt your Turbo blades and you can Other parts people forget sometimes that these engines are not all steal your pistons are aluminum there's other aluminum parts and their and their steel in the all of they heat up and cool down in different ways woman heats up faster steel heats up slower steel will hold the heat aluminum will cool off faster
wrong wrong wrong wrong
Don’t start off your video by saying 6.7s suck, everything you say after that is skeptical now.
Your pistons crack because your egts get to high
Yeah Maybe From All That Dumbass "Keeping It Stock" Shit He Does... You Have To Reduce Exhaust EGT's On Damn Near Every Diesel. & Keeping A Stock Exhaust Doesn't Help With Lowering EGT's
You ford lovers are crazy- look how compact that engine is- and to say few things that fail? Try more than a dozen. Cummins all the way.
Cummins 5.9 12v is a great motor.
chevys suck all the way, always have.
The first thing you do is not to buy a ford. 🤣🤣
for sure I would choose other models myself but for the bucket truck I am stuck with the f word'
brain dead New Yorker this engine is kinda the exception to fords being shit. But largely agreed. 3.8 v6 was solid, not a strong perforner but hard to break. 5.4 bar job the worst engine ive had though
Definitely dont design their vehicles to be user friendly with maintenance. Great while they run. Nightmare when things a go wrong at once
I have to disagree. The first thing you do is get the hell out of New York. Second, buy a big ass 164 oz. super mofo sized nectar of the gods soft drink. Third, get a Ford 7.3 Excursion (aka: Exxon-Valdez, King of the SUV’s) to haul your big ass soft drink and live the American way with a middle finger pointed toward New York or Commifornia at all times. The 7.3 Excursion is the greatest vehicle ever made! America F Yeah!!!
My 96 F250 just turned 200k
Barely broke in. Give me that the IDI motor it should last forever