7.3L Super Duty Turbo, Pedestal, and Up Pipe Replacement, and EBPV Delete
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- In this video I show you how to remove and reinstall the turbo from a 1999-2003 7.3L Power Stroke. I also show how to install bellowed up pipes, replacing the donut gasket style that are prone to failure. I also show how to properly do an exhaust back pressure valve (EBPV) delete using a new high flow turbo outlet and a delete turbo pedestal.
7.3L Power Stroke Turbo Rebuild:
• 7.3 Power Stroke Turbo...
Super Duty Transmission Removal (ZF6 Swap Part 1):
• Auto to ZF6 Conversion...
0:00 Intro
0:17 Turbo Removal
10:53 Pedestal Removal
11:39 Up Pipe Removal
13:04 Pedestal Installation
15:01 Turbo Outlet Replacement
16:33 Turbo Installation
18:15 Up Pipe Installation
21:21 Outro - Авто та транспорт
Best footage of the collector to turbo clamp on UA-cam, 🙏
Thank you! I know it's a pain to get to so I wanted to show exactly what is going on back there.
Thanks for the video. Probably the most detailed I have seen. Unfortunately I'm trying to tackle it with the transmission in. Wish me luck. I will however be doing your most important step and cracking a beer.
Thanks for the compliments. I'm glad it's helpful.
I won't send you any luck because I don't even have any for myself, but I sure hope you find some! I'll be needing some myself soon too. Even though I mentioned in the video that I never want to do uppipes with the trans in, unfortunately for me, in a few weeks I have a truck coming in to the shop where I will be doing just that. It'll be too late for you, but I plan on making a video during that task as well, along with a bunch of other stuff I'll be doing to that truck. I'll probably doing a lot of that most important step...
Should of said "it's like a reward" haha. Great video bud.
Excellent job!
Thank you!
Best ending
Damn, you made that look easy 🤣👍👍
I've done it a few times. There's also the magic of video editing at play here too 🤣
Great video. Pro grade. The soot build up is heavy on the wheel, you were definately due for those uppipes. Mine are in the mail 😫 Trans is in 😟
did it with the tranny in. . He's right, it is not a fun project. But I took my time and it actually went fairly smoothly. i would not tighten any bolts, outside of mounting the turbo, until everything is Loosely connected. Then I tightened the bolts from the turbo down. No problems, made a huge difference in my Boost.
I would recommend tightening the pipes to the manifolds before the collector. But besides that you are correct. It definitely helps the boost situation if your old ones were leaking.
Thanks for your very clear and concise filming of this procedure... Can you also address the process for elimination/rewiring/jumping of the Back Pressure Valve wiring at the base of the pedestal? My understanding this will trigger a code (P0475 or P0476) if simply left off. I live in CA and you can't get through a Smog check with any dash service lights on. Some videos say to "place a resistor in line" and that's as far as they go. It would be helpful to have real details on this procedure as well. Thanks
It will throw a code, but it will not turn the check engine light on. A 470 ohm resistor will keep the code away though. If you want quick and easy, just shove it in the open end of the plug and tape it up. If you wanna get fancy, cut the plug off and attach the 2 wires in a loop with the resistor between them. I believe I'll make a video of that next time I delete one, thanks for giving me an idea!
You missed one step.. turbo rebuild.. but other than that.. amen to the ending.. coors for the win!!
This truck has a GTP38R ball bearing turbo. Unfortunately it is not rebuildable according to Garrett. It has less than 50k miles on it though, so I'm not worried. Any truck with a normal turbo, I would absolutely rebuild it while it's off, and replace the compressor wheel with something better. I have a video on how to do that by the way haha
Also, the GTP38R on this truck is for sale if someone wants it. The noise is starting to get to me as I age lmao. I want to upgrade to the KC38, but can't justify it if this turbo just sits in the attic afterwards.
A smart person would install the up pipes prior to installing the turbo. JS
The collector has to be clamped to the installed turbo before the pipes can be tightened to the collector. If you put the pipes and collector together before the turbo is installed you'll play hell trying to get the collector lined up to the turbo, if you can even do it at all. You can try it your way and maybe it'll work, but I think you're just setting yourself up for frustration.
Maybe I'm not smart, but in this case, I'd rather be dumb and right than smart and wrong. I've done this job several times.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel You do it your way. Me and most of the rest of the world will do it my way. I didn't say anything about tightening them up just installing them. How ever I would definitely tighten the passenger side to the collector before installing the turbo. You have fun with that with the turbo in the way. And most of us are doing it with the down pipe and transmission installed.
@@richmcgarvey4118this is the way
Great pateince
Mostly just determination. I also did this over the course of a couple days, so that helped.
So the point of changing the up pipes is to get rid of the donut gasket replacing it with pipes that have bellows? I have an early 1999 f350 and the only pipes that supposedly work for that period truck have the donut gaskets with the bellows. Just seems to me that it is not worth bothering to change them. Wouldn’t they just leak like the originals?
Im putting in a GTP38R turbo when i do the up pipes, ebpv delete pedestal. Is there a big difference in preformance from the stock gtp38??
If you have stock injectors and no tunes, there will be no difference other than the amount of noise you hear. Stock injectors and tunes you will gain a little power and a little less smoke, and more noise than the stock turbo. If you have stage 1 injectors, which are the upper limit of what can be run with this turbo, again, you'll have more power, less smoke, and more noise compared to the stock turbo. There are better options out there now for performance, KC38 for example.
Notice how I keep mentioning noise. The 38R makes a LOT of it. So much so that after about 15 years of having one in my truck, if I could find someone that wanted to buy mine for a reasonable price, I'd sell it and use the money on a KC drop in. As I get older, the noise is starting to get to me on long trips. 🤣
Great video i just recieved my kc 300x stage 1 turbo and also new up pipes i think im just gonna pay the guy up the street 400.00 to install it all 😂😂😂😂😂
Had the back bolt on the turbo (the 14 mm that fasten turbo to pedestal) round off. Been thinking about what to do for three days now. My only hopes are to possibly get an irwin extractor on there, but I have no room to hammer it on. Otherwise, idk what I will have to do. Pull the pedestal with turbo still on? Seems nearly impossible. Damn near feels like I have to pull the cab off now. If anyone has any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.
Considering that it's 2 13mm bolts that hold the turbo to the pedestal (on super duties), that might be the first problem...
If it is too rounded off to get a socket on it, try taking all 4 bolts out of the pedestal, then you may be able to tip the assembly forward enough to hammer on a rounded bolt extractor.
If that doesn't work, you may be able to remove the turbo and pedestal as an assembly if you remove the fuel bowl. I'm not 100% since I've never tried, but I feel like that might give enough room.
Fuel bowl isn't too bad to remove. 2 10mm (I think) bolts on the front of the timing cover that pass through into the bowl, and 4 fuel lines and it lifts out. Good time to install new orings on those lines and reseal the whole bowl if you're feeling ambitious.
what did you use to break the back 2 bolts on the pedistool, because i'm not wanting to take the up pipes off and I see that you were able to get the back bolts off without removing the up pipes and y pipe.
Just my ratchet, a socket and whatever extensions I needed to get down in there. Nothing special.
13mm socket and i used a swivel...
Worked just fine
Hey man my up pipe kit doesn’t come with turbo o rings I believe. Wish I would’ve known to order them at the same time Napa doesn’t even have them listed.
The up pipe kits never have the turbo o rings. They should, since the turbo pretty much has to come off, but they don't. If you can, get OEM o rings. Either a dealership or if you can wait a few days, dieselorings.com.
What is your opinion on pitting in some billet intake plenums?
A waste of time and money unless you are running enough boost to have the need to tighten the clamps so much that it would deform the factory ones. Unless of course your factory ones are already messed up and need replaced, at which point I would likely opt for the upgrade since you're already in there and spending money.
Ok, on the up-pipes, the flanges are not suppose to be able to slide up and down, right? So if they aren't then I need to change mine which I am the guy with the working trans installed. That's awesome.....
The flanges down at the manifold? If that's what you mean, those definitely aren't supposed to move once it's assembled 🤣 Best of luck to you. I've heard people say it's not horrible with the trans in, but I know it definitely won't be nearly as easy.
WHAT IS THE SECRET TO THE BOTTOM PART OF THE COLLECTOR CLAMP??? I am really struggling over here.
Did you get it? Im stuck
I removed the battery tray so I could get most of my body in fat enough to see the clamp and found a short medium blade flat head and stuck it on the bottom lip of the clamp that was still hanging on and twisted. It took a few tries but it came off pretty easy and the pipes popped apart. You could try to relive tension on it by throwing a ratchet strap around the up pipes and then try to remove the clamp.
Why do the foil delete doesn’t it keep charge pipe from getting heat on it
It's for sound reduction. The air in that pipe is already heated up significantly from being compressed by the turbo. If anything removing it might actually make the air in that pipe cooler since some heat can be released through the walls of it without the insulation. I like to remove it because it cleans up the look under the hood a lot, and that foil will cut the hell out of your hands working around it. You also get to hear the turbo a slight bit more.
Man I'm not looking forward to changing to baffled up pipes. Since ima have to do mine with the transmission in. 🤦🏾😢 Check out my oil leak in my shorts on my 7 🌳
Did not have no problem putting them on my 1996 f350 with the Transmission in it
I have a truck coming into the shop soon that I'll be trying it with the trans in. Hopefully I have similar luck.
So if I gotta cut them pipes out. Then what… my trans is in how tf am I gonna be able to get a tap in there I mean seriously. And how the h*ll am I supposed to fit a cut off on the bolts and the top bolt at that!!
Ya get to pull the manifolds off!
Get a dremel and cut bolts
Dude that's cheating!!😂
Which part? Haha