Thank you for your several videos on this topic. My system has been behaving poorly since we bought the house, but I left it alone because it mostly "worked". This fall the boiler wouldn't fire and the circulator pump would not run. After my first round of troubleshooting I found that two zone valves had been wired into the open position after being forced open. Those valve motors had stripped gears. Only the third zone had actually been working properly and it had been wired to a thermostat in a different zone. This one had a burned out end switch which was why the system would not fire up this fall. Consequently, the bedroom zones would get hellishly hot while the other areas of the house got very little heat. Anyway, thanks to your videos I've now replaced a dodgy switching relay and have one of the three zones working properly. I have the other two wired up, but because the valves themselves are stuck, I need to wait for two rebuild kits.
Thank you very much. I saved over $1000 replacing 3 zone valves myself. I bought 3 Honeywell V8043E1012 $210 with tax & free shipping. I left the old housing in place & replaced all the moving parts. It was easy & now should work for many years.
Will these new powerheads fit an almost 30-year-old Honeywell zone valve? At first blush they look the same. I am afraid to sweat new because there is no valve to shut water off on the zone. Soldering & water just don't mix.
Yes, if you isolate the supply and return lines, you can slowly loosen the old plate. Place a bag or something to catch the fluid. Take your time because it can have a bit of fluid trapped in the lines.
Hi trying to install new relief valve and the pipe that comes out of boiler got some rust is that gonna be ok to add an extension pipe and then install the relief valve to that fort the future so if i need to change the valve i just removing the valve that is installed to the extension pipe just want to make sure it is not affecting pressure or anything thx
@@furnacetech2581 Thanks got one more question Regarding the water that comes to the system once it is filled should i close the valve and open it once a year so not allowing more water or open it little bit or keep it open al the way and leave it thx
@@johnal4560 you would see it mounted on the main boiler piping. Or you would have a special aqua stat which has it built in. Most residential systems do not have them installed.
Thanks for the video It looks like it is upside down relative to the other valve. Does that make the wiring a little messy. Do you need to put anything on the oring? One guy told me Petroleum jelly
The wiring on these valves can be a little messy but you can modify it in a number of ways to make it look better for sure. I never put anything on the o ring. If you get it placed just right, it will stay where it needs to.
Great question! Yes you always want to get the air out of the system! The boiler system in the video has an air scoop which purges air out of the system really well!
Thanks i tried to find relief valve for my floor heating radiant { watts regulator model M no 335 size 3/4 inch set 30 lbs BTU per hr rating NB ASME HV 510,000 } I took the valve and checked with plumbing store but could not find the same model can u please let me know what is important to be the same as the description above if i buy one from deferent company or deferent model Thanks
@@furnacetech2581 thanks i donot know which one is the relief capacity since it does not mention that i see two numbers one is no 335 and the other one is NB ASME HV 510,000
Thank you for your several videos on this topic. My system has been behaving poorly since we bought the house, but I left it alone because it mostly "worked". This fall the boiler wouldn't fire and the circulator pump would not run. After my first round of troubleshooting I found that two zone valves had been wired into the open position after being forced open. Those valve motors had stripped gears. Only the third zone had actually been working properly and it had been wired to a thermostat in a different zone. This one had a burned out end switch which was why the system would not fire up this fall. Consequently, the bedroom zones would get hellishly hot while the other areas of the house got very little heat. Anyway, thanks to your videos I've now replaced a dodgy switching relay and have one of the three zones working properly. I have the other two wired up, but because the valves themselves are stuck, I need to wait for two rebuild kits.
Great vid. Much Thanks.👋✌
Great video because it was short and to the point. I replaced mine today for the first time with your help. Thanks
Thank you very much. I saved over $1000 replacing 3 zone valves myself.
I bought 3 Honeywell V8043E1012 $210 with tax & free shipping.
I left the old housing in place & replaced all the moving parts.
It was easy & now should work for many years.
Thanks for your videos, among the best how To's I have watched. Clear, succinct and easy to understand. Well done!
Thank you for the great tech support - - this video is much appreciated !!!
Thank you for watching
Will these new powerheads fit an almost 30-year-old Honeywell zone valve?
At first blush they look the same. I am afraid to sweat new because there is no valve to shut water off on the zone. Soldering & water just don't mix.
Does isolating the valve by turning off supply and return eliminate the system pressure when you pull off the old plate? Thanks for the video
Yes, if you isolate the supply and return lines, you can slowly loosen the old plate. Place a bag or something to catch the fluid. Take your time because it can have a bit of fluid trapped in the lines.
@@furnacetech2581 Much appreciated 👍
Great! very helpful
Hi trying to install new relief valve and the pipe that comes out of boiler got some rust is that gonna be ok to add an extension pipe and then install the relief valve to that fort the future so if i need to change the valve i just removing the valve that is installed to the extension pipe just want to make sure it is not affecting pressure or anything thx
You should be ok to add an extension pipe on the relief valve piping. Just do not add any isolation valves on the piping.
@@furnacetech2581 Thanks got one more question Regarding the water that comes to the system once it is filled should i close the valve and open it once a year so not allowing more water or open it little bit or keep it open al the way and leave it thx
If you do not have a low water cutoff then you should leave the makeup water open to allow the boiler to stay full automatically!
@@furnacetech2581 thanks Bro how should i know if it has a low water cut off or it does not Thx
@@johnal4560 you would see it mounted on the main boiler piping. Or you would have a special aqua stat which has it built in. Most residential systems do not have them installed.
Thanks for the video
It looks like it is upside down relative to the other valve. Does that make the wiring a little messy.
Do you need to put anything on the oring?
One guy told me Petroleum jelly
The wiring on these valves can be a little messy but you can modify it in a number of ways to make it look better for sure. I never put anything on the o ring. If you get it placed just right, it will stay where it needs to.
Hi Thanks for the video. what made you rebuild the valve was it getting stuck or was it bypassing?
Most of the time the valve starts getting hard to open and close
👍
Do you need to bleed a system after this rebuild?
Great question!
Yes you always want to get the air out of the system!
The boiler system in the video has an air scoop which purges air out of the system really well!
Thanks i tried to find relief valve for my floor heating radiant { watts regulator model M no 335 size 3/4 inch set 30 lbs BTU per hr rating NB ASME HV 510,000 } I took the valve and checked with plumbing store but could not find the same model can u please let me know what is important to be the same as the description above if i buy one from deferent company or deferent model Thanks
Make sure the relief capacity is the same or greater than the original safety!
Also make sure it’s 30psi as original too
@@furnacetech2581 thanks i donot know which one is the relief capacity since it does not mention that i see two numbers one is no 335 and the other one is NB ASME HV 510,000
The btu relief capacity is 510,000
By fluid, I believe he means water