Just for you who have a Ruger LCP Max, there is no need to pry out the frame around the serial number window cut out, it's not protruding, and trigger chassis slides right up and out. Super easy change out! Thanks, Brandyn, for a Great How-to video!
If you’re talking about the lcp max, there is only one pin, near the trigger. You only have to lift it out and to put it back in, drop the back in first followed by the trigger. If you’re talking about the lpc2, there are 3 pins. Only push the pin near the trigger and the pin closest to the end of the grip. The lcp max is easier to replace, by far. In this instructional video, he reinstalls the slide body WITHOUT the slide lock. Don’t know if anyone else noticed this.
Ok, my only request here is slow down a bit and show the proper part alignment after install for those of us who haven’t taken an LCP apart as frequently as you have. Thanks!
Agree....stop and pause at certain junctures. Even if you stop and pause the vid itself, now as it is, there is a blur. Better if you pause and hold for a moment.
Yes, he is very competent gunsmith but for instruction purposes, way to fast on critical area's. Slower hand movements and better views or maybe sharper lens and better lighting for dark interior parts of the pistol frame. I like the way Brownell's instruction view's are made for the novices on UA-cam.
This install really is rather easy. Once you get into it, you will see there really is a minimal amount of parts. Attention to detail during your disassembly pays off. I was able to install a second one of these without the video.
There's a pause feature on the video. Write down what he said. Restart video. Pause & take a note, etc. I've taken mine apart a couple times via this video with my notes. Easy.
This trigger is a game changer for the MAX. I was getting terrible vertical stringing at 7 yards. Now I can hit at 15 yards no problem. Would recommend installing Talon Grips as well.
Just received my LCP MAX trigger and recoil spring upgrade package in the mail today; this video looks super thorough so I'm actually going into "Operation Upgrade" pretty optimistic! Thanks for putting this together.
Thanks for the great instructions!!! Getting the trigger pivot lined up with Sigurd so the retaining pin would go back took me an hour. Everything else was a breeze!!! Never bothered shooting with the old trigger. It's horrible enough dry firing. This is a vast improvement!!! Installed on LCP Max
For anyone having trouble getting the chassis back together in the LCP MAX, you rock the rear of the chassis in first and then seat the trigger. It is the opposite of what is shown in the video.
@@GallowayPrecision I now see where it mentions that but why not point it out specifically in the video? If you read the comments, there are others who had the same issue. Your video install for the LCP MAX trigger takes you directly to the LCP II video. Based on that, one would assume that you are linking the LCP II video for the LCP MAX install because they are the same.
I just installed the Sigurd trigger in my LCP max. Very straightforward installation. What took the longest was gathering the right punches etc before I started. Very clean trigger pull now, and I can tell a big difference in the feel. I won't finish every practice with a sore trigger finger!
Almost the same ,,I just didn't have mess with the hammer when sliding it back in it... put the trigger in the frame 1st then tilt it back to set the back then the trigger side falls right in
I was having an issue with my lcp max, it was hitting the stop before it would fire. You had to squeeze pretty hard for it to fire. I purchased this trigger, followed the video. Which made it super easy to install and now it works flawlessly! Thank you!!!
Cheese and Rice! You just made this so simple. The DIPSHIT in this video keeps saying that the MAX and LCP reassemble are the same and they clearly aren't.
Installed this today...had a question once I got halfway into it... Emailed Galloway tech and got a super fast response and they had me straight and gun was back together within the hour. Love the look, quality and function of the new trigger... Thanks !!! ( Lcp max )
Thank you for the feedback. Glad to hear we were able to get things straightened out for you and you're pleased with the results. If you need anything further, we are here to help.
Ok so before you rush in and jam your flat head into the gap where the serial number is remember DO NOT TRY to PRY the assembly out.. There is a place on the rear of the fire arm where you can put your flat head and give it a slight pry to pop it out of place.
There's a small hole in the side of the frame. You can push the hammer block forward and then stick a punch in that hole to hold it forward, so you don't have to jam a punch or screwdriver through the back and try to pull it out real fast (which can cause scratches). You just put the punch in the side hole to hold the hammer block forward, put the chassis in and then just remove the punch from the side hole. Makes it a bit easier. If you don't have a long punch, you can use a tooth pick or a paper clip too... so it's also good alternative for people that are lacking the right tools. (have been there many times myself). This is true for the LCP, LCP II and LCP Max, but not for the Kel Tec handguns and I don't think the Bodyguard 380's have the holes either, because they don't have a hammer block (Trying to remember other similar firearms that have them too, but can't recall at the moment).
Glad this subject matter is being treated but you REALLY need to slow down. No one watching this video cares how fast you can do this. We trust you know what you’re doing. There are small parts, and people who have never done this before are watching (you sell kits to folks who are not gunsmiths to take these apart) This video, and its potential to increase sales, would be a heck of a lot more effective if you just went slower both in movement and with what you are saying.
I agree. Maybe they should take away his coffee so that he`s not all jacked up and being a speed demon. Even if he stopped talking with his hands would be a very slight improvement.
@@D70340 I respect his triggers, but his presentation style has always left something to be desired. That's why they usually keep engineers in the back of the shop.
Edit to previous comment , I lost the trigger disconnect and didn't realize it , found the piece and correct video and it's back together and function checks correctly , thanks , Next question before I take my new LCP MAX apart , where is the trigger disconnect , this video doesn't show it , This time I want to know what to look for before I start loosing tiny little pieces .
Excellent video! I followed it for the lcp ii 22lr with safety, and would love a variation on this for the version with the safety. The safety block falls out during disassembly, and getting it back in requires a specific order of steps that I had to figure out with trial and error, and getting the safety switch installed just before putting the slide on the frame is a crucial piece of info as well.
@@BrianNicolich You can take them out if I'm not mistaken. They're not necessary to the function of the gun. Many guns (like the Ruger MKIII) require a bushing or a part to replace the magazine disconnect or the gun won't function without it... but I don't think anything like that is necessary for the 22lr LCP II.
the best guide ive seen on youtube. im probably going to buy one of these triggers merely because this video made it seem so in-reach. I'm assuming it also works with the LCP Max like the ebay listing says?
Just Installed this trigger and the Galloway optic plate for a CT-1550 on my LCP Max. My take aways ( i.e. things I personally flubbed, or had to figure out) as a first time installer we’re as follows. Trigger Kit: 1) I stopped the video to line up the top hole of the new trigger with the pivot pinhole. when I got that eventually aligned, I inserted the pin before restarting the video and realizing I had not installed the spring into the side hole before inserting the top pin. Fortunately, I was able to stick a small flat blade in the trigger spring hole and back the pin out, then do it right. Rookie mistake. 2) On the LCP Max when you reinsert the completed trigger assembly, you do not use the punch to help seat the back of the trigger assembly, as the Max frame is built differently. Just barely lower in the trigger first, the back of the frame has a bump out you then need to lower the back of the trigger assembly into fully, then finish seating the front of the trigger assembly into the frame. Regarding the Galloway Optics plate as a side note: Buy a sight pusher (I bought a WireGear sight pusher for $100 on Amazon, it is basically a clone of the more expensive Wheeler). It was easy to set up and paid for itself the first time in removing the stock rear sight. On the optics plate, first remove the center Allen screw which helps lock the plate in place once it is installed. Simply use a rubber or nylon hammer to tap the optics plate into place (no need for a sight pusher). Lock down the center screw with blue loctite (I torqued the screw to 16 ft/lbs). I mounted a Crimson Trace CTS-1550 to the mounting plate using the same torque spec. I found the optic is barely wider then the gun which was great, though the height of the optic (even though it is low-profile) tightened up my available pocket space for easily drawing the pistol. Something to think about if you are contemplating rear night sights or an optic to assist with dialing-in consistent shot groups. I ordered a Kydex pocket holster for my LCP Max with the bottom curve (to assist with concealment) and thumb push (extraction assist) options from Vedder Holsters, I will receive it this weekend in the mail. Hopefully, this ridged holster with the thumb push option will help me retain an easy draw from my pocket. Finally: I installed a Hogue dovetail rubber grip ($13.75 on Amazon Part# 18700 - for Sig P365, though LCP Max capable) Easy to install, per video instructions, though I lowered the front of it to better accommodate my index finger’s grip, then trimmed the over hang on the front of the magazine slot with a knife, as many people have complained about doing, as Hogue doesn’t make an LCP Max specific grip, though genuinely this one works just fine.
awesome trigger! just installed on my 22, i hope you guys make a longer firing pin also, the spring kit did improve my misfire rate, but i noticed my 10/22 can run winchester bulk just fine and lookin at the spent cases they get Crushed by the firing pin, in the lcp it just needs to hit a lil deeper. would be nice to be able to shoot cheap winchester in both guns
The difference between the two is on the LCP MAX please knock the front pin out and tilt the chassis up at the front, it will rotate up and out of the back.
@@GallowayPrecision The reassmbley doesn't seem the same. I can't get the chassis to go back into the pistol doing what you are showing because the LCP 2 and Max appear to be different internally.
Hi, thanks for the video. Unfortunately my LCP Max trigger pivot would not fit into the new Sigurd trigger. I had a devil of a time putting the new trigger in and getting things to line up so I could put the pin back in to hold the trigger pivot in place and the spring. I had to use a punch and work it in and out several times to get it to work. Maybe the trigger coating is too think or something or the machining is too tight. I finally got it in. This would have been a total fail without your video...
The issue here is the pivot pin. From the factory the pivot pin can come with a taper that the plastic trigger can stretch around, but the Aluminum can not. We recommend on that one you can sand the pivot to fit. We have seen either a small tapper or part line shift that may need a small bit of attention on the pivot pin. Please sand very little at a time and test fit in between sandings.
I'm thankful for the video; however it's a bit rushed and doesn't go into detail as much as most good install videos. Remember most who watch these videos as a tutorial before their own installation are not gunsmiths and probably have not done a disassembly on these before. In the future, please go a little slower and do each step with slightly more description. Thank You!
Love my LCP Max a lot more than I expected. I ended up here looking for an optic mounting plate. I have a spare Romeo Zero that looks like it would fit perfectly. Are you planning to build this part anytime soon?
@@GallowayPrecision i do not know if it would have helped the problem i sold it and got a Sig 365 in 380 it is 100 times better than the Ruger max 380 and no finger pinch !!!!!!
I just replaced mine tonight,,, my finger got pinched and I wasn't able to fully depress the safety blade everytime,,, I could definitely tell a difference in the trigger pull and the way I was able to fully catch the safety blade everytime I haven't had a chance to fire I yet but already feel a difference
Please go to the Galloway Precision website and at the bottom of the page under "Need help?" is a link for "Safety Blade Installation". Sorry I can't post a link due to UA-cam's policy on firearms. Please contact us through our website and I'll send you out a new roll pin, as that is a roll pin and shouldn't be reused. Thanks.
Question: is the bottom of the safety blade on the Sigurd supposed to rub against the trigger guard, to the point that it's pushing down on the trigger guard?
Great video. Just finished my install. I seem to be experiencing far more pre- and post-travel than in the video - about twice as much pre-travel, and the trigger stops almost right at the built-in frame stop. Could I have assembled incorrectly in such a way that would cause this?
I am stuck right after the pinching part where you seat the trigger assembly in and I read the comments about rocking the back in first. The problem I have after that is the trigger does not interact with the hammer. In the video he punches something forward under the hammer but that is impossible to do with the LCP Max as mentioned above that part needs to be seated in first. At this point I regret trying to install this trigger. I didn't have a problem with the trigger bite that some people had with the original trigger but now I have a gun that doesn't even fire.
The max is easier than the LCP2, you do not have to push the sear forward to seat it vs the LCP2 pistol, you just hook the rear of the chassis in at the back of the grip frame and rotate it down to seat the chassis in the grip frame. If the trigger is not working you need to contact our tech through our website for help with it, you will need to be more specific than not working, a specific of how it is not working will be needed to guide you to the install issue: is it resetting, not breaking, is the trigger return spring wound correctly?
@@GallowayPrecision I bought the silver one. Missed the fine print that it was unfinished and the blade, spring and pin uninstalled. The trigger install was straightforward but assembling the safety blade in the trigger taxed my gunsmithing skills. Ended up using a vise grip to hold the blade in the trigger with punch in one hand and mallet in the third hand. I do think it was worth the effort. Much improved over the factory trigger.
No, this is a semi cocked Double Action Only. You have to have both reset clicks for the pistol to function. The "false reset" myth is just that, a myth. Which comes from people who don't understand how the firearm works.
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Wow you guys know more about LCPs than ruger customer support. Definitely buying from you guys
Can I install this on my Ruger LCP 2 chambered in 380 with your guys 13lb recoil spring & the trigger spring kit & stainless steel guide rod from MCARBO??
Did they change the trigger safety for the LCP Max.? I just bought one and the trigger safety is very different. It doesn't reach the bottom of the trigger when pushed in. In other words, there's space between the bottom of the trigger safety and the bottom of the grove that it fits in in the trigger. Between an eighth and quarter inch. It also sticks out much further and has a fairly sharp edge. It's not rounded off like the trigger safety in the video. . I like the trigger, but this "new" safety blade is not that comfortable. It also doesn't look as good.
Just a update to close the bottom of the trigger, we had customers asking for that and it was an easy change that seems to be well received across the triggers as we updated all of them to the closed bottom, The blade is the same just shorter as a result.
Aside....anyone else seeing this on a factory MAX?....my trigger pull weight is horrible....close to 9 or 10 lbs depending on how I am using the trigger weight gauge.
If I could get one of these triggers that had the SAME trigger pull weight and distance as the factory trigger I'd buy one to get a metal trigger with a better contour, but the last thing I want in a pocket pistol is less pre travel, which is to say less safety margin.
It has a blade safety ,I think it is less safe if you ever have to use the gun and shoot left and hit a bystander because it has a crap trigger , Defeats the purpose of having a gun Buy a holster that covers the trigger and move along with your life
@@Followme556 so your complaint went from it's unsafe, to now somehow the quality is low? Lol I guess you're just throwing out any old bullshit to complain huh
When the stock trigger lands on the trigger stop it keeps you from putting any additional stress on the trigger mechanism, so wouldn't you want it to bottom out on the trigger stop? Maybe design the Sigurd with extra metal on the back so it rests on the trigger stop? Just a thought.
Installed this tonight. Great video. It was a little intimidating at first but once you get into it I found it as easy or easier than a Glock to work on. Still have to shoot it and will report back after. Very impressed so far. I will make a note that the pin that goes into the top of the trigger and interacts with the trigger spring was *tight* and did not initially seat all the way like it did in the video. After reassembly, I was function testing that pin moved out a bit and started to cause trigger issues. I suspected it was that pin and it had backed out slightly. Disassembled slide and used a punch to *lightly* tap that pin in farther till it was fully seated. Just thought I should mention...
@@shawnkrohn4953 That's something we're starting to see in about 1 in every 200 LCP II pistols, everything being MIMed in the pistol, we are looking at just doing our own pins.
The difference between the two is on the LCP MAX please knock the front pin out and tilt the chassis up at the front, it will rotate up and out of the back. The rest of the video remains the same.
The trigger isn't the problem, our parts are made to +/- .002 of an inch, the problem is the MIMed trigger pivot. If you email me at tech@gallowayprecision.com I can help you with that.
It seems to be basically the same. I just got it in my Max. Dude needs to slow down in his direction, but otherwise it will only give you 2 or 3 new gray hairs. I guess I'm just more comfortable working on striker pistols lol. Between this and my binary PC charger, it's been some nicotine used in this house afterwards lol
Jesus how fucking hard do I have to hit the fucking pertaining pin. No matter how fucking hard I hit it in. I can always just flip it over shake it abunch and it just falls out. Is that OK it falls out? Not sure if I ever heard the click or if it's the punch sliding off and making a sound. Like I said after the sound that I'm not sure is a slide or the "click" I can always shake it off when holding it upside down
@Dhaatbang Im not sure why the first was so hard or not locking. But the problem became that I pushed it in so hard bc I wasn't sure of the click and widened the hole where the pertaining pin went in. Ruining the trigger. Terrible. Sad. Unfortunate. Luckily I had another trigger since I bought 2. One for a gift for a family member with the same gun. Redid it and it went in with ease
Shut up with that he obviously knew it was cleared already and if it wasn’t cleared he is looking at it and then he could easily drop the mag and start over. You ain’t shit trying to be a gun safety instructor on youtube.
Lol funny you mention that. Seems it's been an issue and they've done exactly that to correct it. Got mine in the mail today and already contacted them about getting a replacement blade safety sent out
@GallowayPrecision nah, just toked up an 1/8th and knocked it out. Jk, now that I've had to do it a few times, im familiar with it. But man, it was frustrating watching this tutorial. As i had never disassembled this one before.
Everyone seems that the trigger is the best upgrade. So where's the Legalities, you shot someone in self defense. All I here is dont mod your gun. Lawyers will rip you a new one. Whats the " Real Truth" ??? Mod or dont Mod.
Personally I'd rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6. As the great Richard Petty once said "If you ain't cheating, you ain't winning." You're always going to have some anti gun idiot DA trying to make a name for themselves in an anti-gun state to become a judge and so on. As long as it's a good shoot and all laws are followed you won't have anything to worry about.
Just for you who have a Ruger LCP Max, there is no need to pry out the frame around the serial number window cut out, it's not protruding, and trigger chassis slides right up and out. Super easy change out! Thanks, Brandyn, for a Great How-to video!
Hey Philo, do you like the trigger action?
How did you remove the rear pin for the trigger assby the rear pin on mine is not visible
If you’re talking about the lcp max, there is only one pin, near the trigger. You only have to lift it out and to put it back in, drop the back in first followed by the trigger.
If you’re talking about the lpc2, there are 3 pins. Only push the pin near the trigger and the pin closest to the end of the grip. The lcp max is easier to replace, by far. In this instructional video, he reinstalls the slide body WITHOUT the slide lock. Don’t know if anyone else noticed this.
Ok, my only request here is slow down a bit and show the proper part alignment after install for those of us who haven’t taken an LCP apart as frequently as you have. Thanks!
Agree....stop and pause at certain junctures. Even if you stop and pause the vid itself, now as it is, there is a blur. Better if you pause and hold for a moment.
Yes, he is very competent gunsmith but for instruction purposes, way to fast on critical area's. Slower hand movements and better views or maybe sharper lens and better lighting for dark interior parts of the pistol frame. I like the way Brownell's instruction view's are made for the novices on UA-cam.
@@HolyMoley2u
With the tat sleeves and the sausage fingers and hands more like MEAL Team 6.
This install really is rather easy. Once you get into it, you will see there really is a minimal amount of parts. Attention to detail during your disassembly pays off. I was able to install a second one of these without the video.
There's a pause feature on the video. Write down what he said. Restart video. Pause & take a note, etc. I've taken mine apart a couple times via this video with my notes. Easy.
This trigger is a game changer for the MAX. I was getting terrible vertical stringing at 7 yards. Now I can hit at 15 yards no problem. Would recommend installing Talon Grips as well.
I installed this trigger on my LCP 2. Absolutely a marked improvement! Recommended highly
Just received my LCP MAX trigger and recoil spring upgrade package in the mail today; this video looks super thorough so I'm actually going into "Operation Upgrade" pretty optimistic! Thanks for putting this together.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the great instructions!!! Getting the trigger pivot lined up with Sigurd so the retaining pin would go back took me an hour. Everything else was a breeze!!! Never bothered shooting with the old trigger. It's horrible enough dry firing. This is a vast improvement!!! Installed on LCP Max
Thanks for the feedback. Glad you are pleased with the results.
For anyone having trouble getting the chassis back together in the LCP MAX, you rock the rear of the chassis in first and then seat the trigger. It is the opposite of what is shown in the video.
We have that information in the description of the video. Sorry you missed that.
@@GallowayPrecision I now see where it mentions that but why not point it out specifically in the video? If you read the comments, there are others who had the same issue. Your video install for the LCP MAX trigger takes you directly to the LCP II video. Based on that, one would assume that you are linking the LCP II video for the LCP MAX install because they are the same.
I just installed the Sigurd trigger in my LCP max. Very straightforward installation. What took the longest was gathering the right punches etc before I started. Very clean trigger pull now, and I can tell a big difference in the feel. I won't finish every practice with a sore trigger finger!
We're glad you are pleased.
Can you make a vid replacing the trigger on the LCP Max? Help this old veteran out.....
Almost the same ,,I just didn't have mess with the hammer when sliding it back in it... put the trigger in the frame 1st then tilt it back to set the back then the trigger side falls right in
Really impressed with these triggers, I use to hate firing my LCP II now they are comfy to shoot.
That's great to hear. Thanks for sharing.
I was having an issue with my lcp max, it was hitting the stop before it would fire. You had to squeeze pretty hard for it to fire. I purchased this trigger, followed the video. Which made it super easy to install and now it works flawlessly! Thank you!!!
Thanks for sharing
Just noting that on the Max, the rear of the chassis 'rocks' into place, and has to be inserted before the front.
Took me 20 min to figure that out after watching the vid 15 times ,,,should have read the comments 1st lol
Cheese and Rice! You just made this so simple. The DIPSHIT in this video keeps saying that the MAX and LCP reassemble are the same and they clearly aren't.
Damn thank you so much!! The gunsmith was trynna charge me 75$ puuuuuf! With your video i did it myself
Too much movement, way too interested in showing us how fast he can do it than actually showing us what he's doing.
I agree 100%
Just pause the video
This was a lot easier than my HK VP9 trigger upgrade! Thanks for making the video. The past button was my friend at each step!
You're welcome. Thank you for your order.
Wonderful video! Just installed mine with it’s help. Can’t wait to get to the range!
Ordered mine this morning and found your video this evening. Thanks so much
Installed this today...had a question once I got halfway into it...
Emailed Galloway tech and got a super fast response and they had me straight and gun was back together within the hour.
Love the look, quality and function of the new trigger...
Thanks !!! ( Lcp max )
Thank you for the feedback. Glad to hear we were able to get things straightened out for you and you're pleased with the results. If you need anything further, we are here to help.
Ok so before you rush in and jam your flat head into the gap where the serial number is remember DO NOT TRY to PRY the assembly out.. There is a place on the rear of the fire arm where you can put your flat head and give it a slight pry to pop it out of place.
You don't show anything about the MAX. Is there a hidden pin??
There's a small hole in the side of the frame. You can push the hammer block forward and then stick a punch in that hole to hold it forward, so you don't have to jam a punch or screwdriver through the back and try to pull it out real fast (which can cause scratches). You just put the punch in the side hole to hold the hammer block forward, put the chassis in and then just remove the punch from the side hole. Makes it a bit easier. If you don't have a long punch, you can use a tooth pick or a paper clip too... so it's also good alternative for people that are lacking the right tools. (have been there many times myself). This is true for the LCP, LCP II and LCP Max, but not for the Kel Tec handguns and I don't think the Bodyguard 380's have the holes either, because they don't have a hammer block (Trying to remember other similar firearms that have them too, but can't recall at the moment).
Thank you so much for this! Didn't think the LCPII trigger could even BE improved upon but you knocked it out of the park!
Dan Tallant you were lucky.
Glad this subject matter is being treated but you REALLY need to slow down. No one watching this video cares how fast you can do this. We trust you know what you’re doing.
There are small parts, and people who have never done this before are watching (you sell kits to folks who are not gunsmiths to take these apart)
This video, and its potential to increase sales, would be a heck of a lot more effective if you just went slower both in movement and with what you are saying.
I agree. Maybe they should take away his coffee so that he`s not all jacked up and being a speed demon.
Even if he stopped talking with his hands would be a very slight improvement.
@@D70340 I respect his triggers, but his presentation style has always left something to be desired. That's why they usually keep engineers in the back of the shop.
Just installed mine. Great how to video. Thanks
Thanks a ton Brandon for the video. I've used your videos before on other parts I've bought from you guys. AWESOME stuff all the way around.
Awesome! Thank you!
Just ordered one! Can't wait to try it out
Awesome video very detailed and informative.
Edit to previous comment , I lost the trigger disconnect and didn't realize it , found the piece and correct video and it's back together and function checks correctly , thanks ,
Next question before I take my new LCP MAX apart , where is the trigger disconnect , this video doesn't show it ,
This time I want to know what to look for before I start loosing tiny little pieces .
Excellent video! I followed it for the lcp ii 22lr with safety, and would love a variation on this for the version with the safety. The safety block falls out during disassembly, and getting it back in requires a specific order of steps that I had to figure out with trial and error, and getting the safety switch installed just before putting the slide on the frame is a crucial piece of info as well.
So it does fit the LCP II 22LR?
@@BrianNicolich yes
Thanks for your tip about the safety …mine is coming tomorrow
Also wondering about the magazine disconnect. Just realized it has this unfortunate feature.
@@BrianNicolich You can take them out if I'm not mistaken. They're not necessary to the function of the gun. Many guns (like the Ruger MKIII) require a bushing or a part to replace the magazine disconnect or the gun won't function without it... but I don't think anything like that is necessary for the 22lr LCP II.
the best guide ive seen on youtube. im probably going to buy one of these triggers merely because this video made it seem so in-reach. I'm assuming it also works with the LCP Max like the ebay listing says?
We appreciate that. Yes the LCP II and LCP MAX do use the same Sigurd Short Stroke Trigger.
Just Installed this trigger and the Galloway optic plate for a CT-1550 on my LCP Max. My take aways ( i.e. things I personally flubbed, or had to figure out) as a first time installer we’re as follows.
Trigger Kit:
1) I stopped the video to line up the top hole of the new trigger with the pivot pinhole. when I got that eventually aligned, I inserted the pin before restarting the video and realizing I had not installed the spring into the side hole before inserting the top pin. Fortunately, I was able to stick a small flat blade in the trigger spring hole and back the pin out, then do it right. Rookie mistake.
2) On the LCP Max when you reinsert the completed trigger assembly, you do not use the punch to help seat the back of the trigger assembly, as the Max frame is built differently. Just barely lower in the trigger first, the back of the frame has a bump out you then need to lower the back of the trigger assembly into fully, then finish seating the front of the trigger assembly into the frame.
Regarding the Galloway Optics plate as a side note: Buy a sight pusher (I bought a WireGear sight pusher for $100 on Amazon, it is basically a clone of the more expensive Wheeler). It was easy to set up and paid for itself the first time in removing the stock rear sight. On the optics plate, first remove the center Allen screw which helps lock the plate in place once it is installed. Simply use a rubber or nylon hammer to tap the optics plate into place (no need for a sight pusher). Lock down the center screw with blue loctite (I torqued the screw to 16 ft/lbs). I mounted a Crimson Trace CTS-1550 to the mounting plate using the same torque spec. I found the optic is barely wider then the gun which was great, though the height of the optic (even though it is low-profile) tightened up my available pocket space for easily drawing the pistol. Something to think about if you are contemplating rear night sights or an optic to assist with dialing-in consistent shot groups. I ordered a Kydex pocket holster for my LCP Max with the bottom curve (to assist with concealment) and thumb push (extraction assist) options from Vedder Holsters, I will receive it this weekend in the mail. Hopefully, this ridged holster with the thumb push option will help me retain an easy draw from my pocket.
Finally: I installed a Hogue dovetail rubber grip ($13.75 on Amazon Part# 18700 - for Sig P365, though LCP Max capable) Easy to install, per video instructions, though I lowered the front of it to better accommodate my index finger’s grip, then trimmed the over hang on the front of the magazine slot with a knife, as many people have complained about doing, as Hogue doesn’t make an LCP Max specific grip, though genuinely this one works just fine.
So would you recommend the trigger for the Max?
@@philocleandes9302 Would definitely recommend as the stock trigger pinch can be consistent and damn annoying.
My biggest complaint about my LCP Max is the trigger pinching my finger when I fire the gun. Has this trigger upgrade solved that problem for anyone?
I just picked this up. I cant wait to install it
Must have for LCP Max, I have no clue how it reduced trigger pull weight but it did.
When I changed out mine, the slide lock lever came out of the body when I removed the main slide from the frame. Thanks
Is there a question here?
Will this trigger fit my LCP max?
Sigurd trigger is same for LPC Max and LPC 2.
Can we get a mag extension for the lcp II 22?
Amen. +10 -15would be good
awesome trigger! just installed on my 22, i hope you guys make a longer firing pin also, the spring kit did improve my misfire rate, but i noticed my 10/22 can run winchester bulk just fine and lookin at the spent cases they get Crushed by the firing pin, in the lcp it just needs to hit a lil deeper. would be nice to be able to shoot cheap winchester in both guns
If we get enough interest we will look into producing one for folks. Thanks!
The max is quite a bit different inside
Please create a methodical version for the LCP Max
The difference between the two is on the LCP MAX please knock the front pin out and tilt the chassis up at the front, it will rotate up and out of the back.
@@GallowayPrecision The reassmbley doesn't seem the same. I can't get the chassis to go back into the pistol doing what you are showing because the LCP 2 and Max appear to be different internally.
Pivot into Sigurd hole was too tight so had to dremel out the hole a little.
Hi, thanks for the video. Unfortunately my LCP Max trigger pivot would not fit into the new Sigurd trigger. I had a devil of a time putting the new trigger in and getting things to line up so I could put the pin back in to hold the trigger pivot in place and the spring. I had to use a punch and work it in and out several times to get it to work. Maybe the trigger coating is too think or something or the machining is too tight. I finally got it in. This would have been a total fail without your video...
I've seen similar comments to yours. Did you try working the trigger over and over to see if it loosens up?
I had the same issue, i ended up sanding and boring it out just a bit.
The issue here is the pivot pin. From the factory the pivot pin can come with a taper that the plastic trigger can stretch around, but the Aluminum can not. We recommend on that one you can sand the pivot to fit. We have seen either a small tapper or part line shift that may need a small bit of attention on the pivot pin. Please sand very little at a time and test fit in between sandings.
I'm thankful for the video; however it's a bit rushed and doesn't go into detail as much as most good install videos. Remember most who watch these videos as a tutorial before their own installation are not gunsmiths and probably have not done a disassembly on these before. In the future, please go a little slower and do each step with slightly more description. Thank You!
Thank you for the feedback.
I totally intend to order one of these, looks great. I’d love it if someone made a 4” threaded barrel for this also. Just me?
Nope, I'd like one too.
For me, it’s just a pocket gun. Anything I’d put a threaded barrel on is going to be bigger.
Love my LCP Max a lot more than I expected. I ended up here looking for an optic mounting plate. I have a spare Romeo Zero that looks like it would fit perfectly. Are you planning to build this part anytime soon?
Yes, it has been run and we are currently waiting on anodizing. We should have them up on the website in a few weeks. Thanks for inquiring.
Will the short stroke trigger stop it from pinching my finger when i shoot it ????? has anyone had that problem ?? if so how do you fix it
Yes it should help. We have had customers purchase it for that reason.
@@GallowayPrecision i do not know if it would have helped the problem i sold it and got a Sig 365 in 380 it is 100 times better than the Ruger max 380 and no finger pinch !!!!!!
@@inland85 Yeah I'm suspecting the Sig P365 is just a better gun, but it's bigger for sure.
I just replaced mine tonight,,, my finger got pinched and I wasn't able to fully depress the safety blade everytime,,, I could definitely tell a difference in the trigger pull and the way I was able to fully catch the safety blade everytime I haven't had a chance to fire I yet but already feel a difference
When reassembling, you should show the proper reposition of the slide lock lever. It’s not even shown in the video.
It only fits one way. The same as before it was removed, no reposition.
The trigger sent to me came unassembled. Do you have an assembly video of the trigger itself?
Please go to the Galloway Precision website and at the bottom of the page under "Need help?" is a link for "Safety Blade Installation". Sorry I can't post a link due to UA-cam's policy on firearms. Please contact us through our website and I'll send you out a new roll pin, as that is a roll pin and shouldn't be reused. Thanks.
Question: is the bottom of the safety blade on the Sigurd supposed to rub against the trigger guard, to the point that it's pushing down on the trigger guard?
Haven't seen that before, email tech@gallowayprecision.com
Great video. Just finished my install.
I seem to be experiencing far more pre- and post-travel than in the video - about twice as much pre-travel, and the trigger stops almost right at the built-in frame stop. Could I have assembled incorrectly in such a way that would cause this?
Just the tolerances of your particular pistol, if you need longer set screws email tech@gallowayprecision.com
GallowayPrecision thanks for the reply.
I didn’t think this trigger was adjustable. Where does the set screw go?
Find out anything on that ? How's your gun shooting now?thx
Considering the role and way these guns will be carried, I personally feel this trigger is the exact opposite of an upgrade. YMMV.
Please elaborate for us?
I am stuck right after the pinching part where you seat the trigger assembly in and I read the comments about rocking the back in first. The problem I have after that is the trigger does not interact with the hammer. In the video he punches something forward under the hammer but that is impossible to do with the LCP Max as mentioned above that part needs to be seated in first.
At this point I regret trying to install this trigger. I didn't have a problem with the trigger bite that some people had with the original trigger but now I have a gun that doesn't even fire.
The max is easier than the LCP2, you do not have to push the sear forward to seat it vs the LCP2 pistol, you just hook the rear of the chassis in at the back of the grip frame and rotate it down to seat the chassis in the grip frame. If the trigger is not working you need to contact our tech through our website for help with it, you will need to be more specific than not working, a specific of how it is not working will be needed to guide you to the install issue: is it resetting, not breaking, is the trigger return spring wound correctly?
@@GallowayPrecision How many times do I wound the trigger return spring? I assume clockwise?
The trigger I received did not come with the safety blade installed as noted at 5:00.
Every Sigurd trigger leaves here with the blade installed. Have you contacted us through our website with your order number to assist you?
@@GallowayPrecision I bought the silver one. Missed the fine print that it was unfinished and the blade, spring and pin uninstalled. The trigger install was straightforward but assembling the safety blade in the trigger taxed my gunsmithing skills. Ended up using a vise grip to hold the blade in the trigger with punch in one hand and mallet in the third hand. I do think it was worth the effort. Much improved over the factory trigger.
When u guys going to have these in stock
Wow, that looks like a vast improvement over the factory trigger. Do you have these in stock?
They are currently at Anodizing and should be back in later next week.
Can you make a trigger for the LCP CUSTOM that does away with the first click on the reset?
No, this is a semi cocked Double Action Only. You have to have both reset clicks for the pistol to function. The "false reset" myth is just that, a myth. Which comes from people who don't understand how the firearm works.
Wow you guys know more about LCPs than ruger customer support. Definitely buying from you guys
Can I install this on my Ruger LCP 2 chambered in 380 with your guys 13lb recoil spring & the trigger spring kit & stainless steel guide rod from MCARBO??
EXCELLENT
Did they change the trigger safety for the LCP Max.? I just bought one and the trigger safety is very different. It doesn't reach the bottom of the trigger when pushed in. In other words, there's space between the bottom of the trigger safety and the bottom of the grove that it fits in in the trigger. Between an eighth and quarter inch. It also sticks out much further and has a fairly sharp edge. It's not rounded off like the trigger safety in the video. . I like the trigger, but this "new" safety blade is not that comfortable. It also doesn't look as good.
Just a update to close the bottom of the trigger, we had customers asking for that and it was an easy change that seems to be well received across the triggers as we updated all of them to the closed bottom, The blade is the same just shorter as a result.
Any issues with using this trigger along with the mcarbo light spring kit ?
No idea, we don't test competitor parts.
Just received my Sigurd, but the safety blade has a different shape. On mine it is much shorter. Have they revised the design since this video?
Yes. As it shows in the picture of the product on the website.
Aside....anyone else seeing this on a factory MAX?....my trigger pull weight is horrible....close to 9 or 10 lbs depending on how I am using the trigger weight gauge.
I happen to check mine tonight after installing the trigger and I was at 7lbs everytime
@@garyraymond4580 ...appreciate you doing this..... thank you. Did you do this prior too, with the stock factory trigger?
Does the shorter trigger travel decrease the safety to carry loaded?
No. The safety has not been modified, only the stroke.
When will this be back in stock?
If I could get one of these triggers that had the SAME trigger pull weight and distance as the factory trigger I'd buy one to get a metal trigger with a better contour, but the last thing I want in a pocket pistol is less pre travel, which is to say less safety margin.
It has a blade safety ,I think it is less safe if you ever have to use the gun and shoot left and hit a bystander because it has a crap trigger , Defeats the purpose of having a gun Buy a holster that covers the trigger and move along with your life
@@edstringer1138 I think i'll not fk with the factory trigger for one of dubious value, and move on with my life.
@@Followme556 so your complaint went from it's unsafe, to now somehow the quality is low? Lol I guess you're just throwing out any old bullshit to complain huh
@@xTom4Tomx My critique has not changed at all, nor did i ever imply the quality was low. Are you high my man?
Will this fit the 22lr version??
When the stock trigger lands on the trigger stop it keeps you from putting any additional stress on the trigger mechanism, so wouldn't you want it to bottom out on the trigger stop? Maybe design the Sigurd with extra metal on the back so it rests on the trigger stop? Just a thought.
Because there is no need for that since we already shortened the stroke to make it stop sooner.
Installed this tonight. Great video. It was a little intimidating at first but once you get into it I found it as easy or easier than a Glock to work on. Still have to shoot it and will report back after. Very impressed so far.
I will make a note that the pin that goes into the top of the trigger and interacts with the trigger spring was *tight* and did not initially seat all the way like it did in the video. After reassembly, I was function testing that pin moved out a bit and started to cause trigger issues. I suspected it was that pin and it had backed out slightly. Disassembled slide and used a punch to *lightly* tap that pin in farther till it was fully seated. Just thought I should mention...
@@shawnkrohn4953 That's something we're starting to see in about 1 in every 200 LCP II pistols, everything being MIMed in the pistol, we are looking at just doing our own pins.
@@GallowayPrecision I think that's a solid idea. I'll continue to monitor it and let you know if I have any other issues.
Where can I get the tool less takedown pin for this gun?
www.gallowayprecision.com
is it compatible with ec9s?
How about showing one on the MAX.
The difference between the two is on the LCP MAX please knock the front pin out and tilt the chassis up at the front, it will rotate up and out of the back. The rest of the video remains the same.
I juat received my trigger today and it doesn't look red like in this video, the one they sent me is maroon. Very disappointing
Hmmmm.?.??.
Hey, does this work for the LCP 2 22lr model?
Most certainly.
It would have been nice if you folks sent me a properly drilled sigurd trigger. The trigger pivot doesn’t fit into the trigger. What a bummer!
The trigger isn't the problem, our parts are made to +/- .002 of an inch, the problem is the MIMed trigger pivot. If you email me at tech@gallowayprecision.com I can help you with that.
I e-mailed you
Hello e-mail you two times over the past two days.
@@MPjdog Then you are emailing the wrong email because I have nothing from you. What email address are you using.
GallowayPrecision the one you gave me.
What is the trigger pull with the new trigger?
This is a short stroke trigger and only effects the trigger travel, not the pull weight.
@@GallowayPrecision Thanks for the information. Unfortunately I need something that will reduce the trigger pull weight.
are you going to show the lcp max trigger upgrade?
Don't hold your breath on a video for the lcp max. I have asked them twice.
@@harleytownsend6866 I am trying to follow this video for the LCP Max - and not having much success.
@@harleytownsend6866 Well if they ever do put out another video, i hope they have someone else do it that isn`t in a race to do the job.
It seems to be basically the same. I just got it in my Max. Dude needs to slow down in his direction, but otherwise it will only give you 2 or 3 new gray hairs. I guess I'm just more comfortable working on striker pistols lol. Between this and my binary PC charger, it's been some nicotine used in this house afterwards lol
You pretty much just Copy the LCP 2 trigger and put it into the lcp max is what im seeing
Yes, the LCP II and LCP MAX both use the Sigurd Trigger.
Jesus how fucking hard do I have to hit the fucking pertaining pin. No matter how fucking hard I hit it in. I can always just flip it over shake it abunch and it just falls out. Is that OK it falls out? Not sure if I ever heard the click or if it's the punch sliding off and making a sound. Like I said after the sound that I'm not sure is a slide or the "click" I can always shake it off when holding it upside down
Push the trigger holder in more
@Dhaatbang Im not sure why the first was so hard or not locking. But the problem became that I pushed it in so hard bc I wasn't sure of the click and widened the hole where the pertaining pin went in. Ruining the trigger. Terrible. Sad. Unfortunate. Luckily I had another trigger since I bought 2. One for a gift for a family member with the same gun. Redid it and it went in with ease
@@dcesar117 Was this for the Max?
3D printed parts have no place in a trigger for a daily carry. I don't care if its just the trigger safety dingus.
Damn son, what are you doing "clearing" without dropping the mag first. That seems like a very bad habit to have.
Shut up with that he obviously knew it was cleared already and if it wasn’t cleared he is looking at it and then he could easily drop the mag and start over. You ain’t shit trying to be a gun safety instructor on youtube.
Sorry that was kinda of rude but still chill out with that.
Will it fit the 22LR LCP ll lite
Not yet, we've got to make some changes to it.
Love the trigger but mannnn the bottom tips on both are sharp upon pull,should be gone really!!!
Just honest two cents
Lol funny you mention that. Seems it's been an issue and they've done exactly that to correct it. Got mine in the mail today and already contacted them about getting a replacement blade safety sent out
Most frustraring install video ive watched.
Feel like i need to smoke a gram of meth to keep up.
I certainly don't want you turning to Meth. Did you try slowing the playback speed on the video?
@GallowayPrecision nah, just toked up an 1/8th and knocked it out.
Jk, now that I've had to do it a few times, im familiar with it.
But man, it was frustrating watching this tutorial. As i had never disassembled this one before.
Everyone seems that the trigger is the best upgrade. So where's the Legalities, you shot someone in self defense. All I here is dont mod your gun. Lawyers will rip you a new one. Whats the " Real Truth" ??? Mod or dont Mod.
Personally I'd rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6. As the great Richard Petty once said "If you ain't cheating, you ain't winning." You're always going to have some anti gun idiot DA trying to make a name for themselves in an anti-gun state to become a judge and so on. As long as it's a good shoot and all laws are followed you won't have anything to worry about.
When will these be back in stock?
They are out at Anodizing now and should be back within 10 days.
@@GallowayPrecision Just ordered a mill finish. Should work with the silver slide on my LCP. Can't wait! God bless!
Is there one made for the LCP gen 1?
The Peacemaker Short Stroke Trigger is available for the original LCP. Please check out the Galloway Precision website for the listing.
@@GallowayPrecision Thank you.