Vortech V3 Si supercharger unboxing and install
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- Опубліковано 9 бер 2020
- Here I unbox and install an entry level carburetor supercharger kit on my old 1990 Silverado.
I also change the oil and drive around. The next video will be a review and then I will finally start a Holley efi tuning series to show the changes I've made to set up a timing table and adjustments to run a standard sniper tbi on boost.
The truck has incredible power everywhere now. My cam and head selection favored the low end but a centrifugal supercharger has a rising boost curve so it favors the top end. It is a perfect combo of great power from off-idle to redline.
Feel free to comment below. I'll try to be as thorough as I can when answering questions. Thanks for watching. - Авто та транспорт
I see your really stepping up your game. Hope everything is going well for you. Looking forward to more vids
She's a runner. I have a shitload of footage, I just need to edit and upload. 2 little kiddos and I've been busier than ever at work.
@@EricErnst I'm just glad your doing great pal. Here is a quick vid of my car and me having fun with the hyperspark
instagram.com/p/CHtxPYQAzyp/?
@@cfmechanic lol. Nice. Is that a 2 step? I've never messed with that setting. Lol.
@@EricErnst yes sir it is a two step. Dont do it if u have cats. I have the limit set at 2500. Will use it at track when stagin so I can prevent car pushing thru the lights and I will be able to watch the tree instead of my tach. The trick to get flames is straight thru mufflers and the exhaust has to be hot.
@@cfmechanic lol. Nice. With that supercharger, I'm sure my exhaust gets hot. I don't have cats or mufflers.. just single 4" open. The ceramic headers should hold in plenty of heat. I'll play with a 2 step later. Lol. Looks like fun
Sounds awesome man 🤘 I been rebuilding my motor it's almost done I plan to get a 6 stage paformance chip and a throttle body spacer
What year is your truck? Tell me more about the 6 stage chip. I've never heard of one before. A throttle body spacer might help, but I'd rather space the injector pods higher. They make a spacer kit with longer bolts and gaskets. It allows more air past the injectors into the butterfly valves. From the factory, they are set pretty low and obstruct most of the airflow through the throttle openings. I think I raised mine like 1/2". It's not much but it will allow more air.
Good luck with your rebuild. Let me know how it goes.
@@EricErnst it's a 1991 Chevy Silverado with a 350 lol I finished the rebuild a few days ago its still bone stock and my buddy said he has a stage 6 chip I never heard of one too untill he showed me
I'll probably at some point put a video up of the engine bay I still have a few things to do to it
@@Ricky-manic Nothing wrong with a bone stock build. Reliable as hell. It doesn't hurt to throw a little performance at it with some bolt-ons, but bone stock is dead reliable. I'd never heard of the 6 stage chip until a week or so ago. I had a custom chip programmed about 15 years ago. I had a cam, vortec heads, hooker headers and big block injectors. I did not like the custom chip. It drank fuel and blew black smoke on acceleration. He didn't have it programmed right. If it is tuned right, you'll only need one power level.. when you floor it, max performance. When you're feathering the throttle, max economy. The only time you need to retune is if you switch octane. Aside from that, no switching tunes or chip levels. I'd be interested in seeing the performance difference between the levels.
Nice
Cool
I just purchased this kit !!
What are you using to fuel your engine? I really like the sniper efi to ensure that I don't lean out and can keep timing where I want it under boost.
@EricErnst I haven't installed it yet right now I just have a standard 4150 holley.but plan on upgrading to a sniper for the blow through application
@@kdog-xc6ib it can absolutely be done on a standard 4150 carb. That's what it was designed for. I do like the added safety of the sniper.
I went sniper before the supercharger. Just to make sure I had the kinks worked out before I went with boost.
@EricErnst yea I might just run it with the carb for now see how it does unless I decide to bite the bullet and buy the holley sniper cause this kit was expensive enough
@@kdog-xc6ib I understand completely. I was running sniper for about a year before I bit the bullet and bought this kit. It was a touch over $3k when I bought mine in February of 2020.
It COMPLETELY changed the attitude of the truck. It was a pretty easy install. It was quick before (meh, 405hp estimated at the crank) but this really unleashed the power.
What kind of combo are you running it on? Heads/cam/headers? I have a baby roller cam. 202⁰/212⁰@.050". It starts strong and violently comes to life the higher I rev it.
I run 93 octane fuel so it's pretty expensive compared to a little car but it's a blast to drive.
and i have a 86 dually with 454 i thought about using on 93 silverado. Im old school carb kinda guy dont know about these newer engines
Awesome.
Judy finishing up the wiring on a 4L80E swap. She needs overdrive bad! 5200rpms in 3rd gear is about 115mph, and she gets there in a hurry. New trans will be under 4000 at the same speed. Or dropping over 600rpms at cruising speeds.
Hope you're staying safe up there during these weird times.
Cruising in overdrive at 2400rpms, I'm at 71mph. Before, that I was 50mph. Now I can run 55mph at 1700rpms. The first 3 gear ratios are the same, with a .75:1 overdrive ratio and lockup converter. My rpms dropped more than I expected. I'm thrilled with the transmission swap.. and the engine makes awesome power. This truck kicks ass.
@@EricErnst that's awesome. Better gas mileage too?
@@Fullthrottle440Garage I haven't gotten that far yet. I'm sure the mileage will be better too. It's gotta be, dropping the rpms that much. I drive enough on 2 lane highways every morning that it will definitely spend time in 4th with the tcc locked. When I had this trans in my 1993 k2500, I got a best tank ever of 14.25mpg. I'm not sure if I'll see that big of a jump, but I'd like to see 12 again. Mileage has dropped with the supercharger, and it actually dropped with the sniper fuel injection. I'm sure it is getting better air:fuel ratios than with the old tbi and with the old carb. I got as good as 13mpg with the carb after I swapped heads and cam. I had a gauge with a narrow-band O2 sensor that showed whether you were rich or lean. It was always lean. It bottomed out the gauge at wide open throttle with the stock tbi after i had the Edelbrock intake manifold. That was with intake,headers, exhaust, electric fans, roller rocker arms, and a fram air-hog filter in the stock air cleaner. I also had a few airflow mods done to the tbi unit. My lowest tank ever was 6mpg. My first tank ever was 8.8mpg in it. That was completely bone stock. With sniper injection, before the supercharger, I'd see right around 10mpg. If I see 12.5 again, I'd be happy as hell. I can bolt on bigger tires and change the speedometer and get better yet. My tires are dinky little 245/75R16s. They were like new when I got the truck. I'd hate to just swap them out since they have so much tread left. I'd like to slap on at least 285/75r16s and have room to bolt on my 33x14 boggers when I want to play in the mud.
I hope everything is going well up in your neck of the woods. Have a good one dude. That new Buick looks awesome.
@@EricErnst thanks! Sounds like you got it all figured out
What did you set your boost reference fuel pressure regulator at? I got it running. Runs terrible lol. I went with the super sniper. Not really sure on how to set it. But it did start.
I'm running the stock fuel pressure regulator right now. I just let the computer add duty cycle to compensate for boost/lower fuel pressure. I limited myself to 5200rpm right now until I can install my boost referenced fuel pressure regulator. I did that to keep my injector duty cycle under 100%. I'm running 165kpa at peak right now. Essentially 65% more air (and power) than naturally aspirated (minus parasitic losses). Comp cams estimated 406hp@5500. That's about 670hp, subtract maybe 50 for belt losses. Do you think a serpentine belt could hold 50hp?
I think the stock fuel pressure on sniper is 58.5. I believe the super sniper does not come with a fuel pressure regulator. I'd set it to increase at 1:1 with boost pressure.. But you probably won't need to with 8 100lb/hr injectors. That should be enough for 1600hp at 100% duty cycle.
I'd bring it up slow. I'd probably even run it without the supercharger at first. You should bounce the idle around so it learns the fueling requirements at idle first.
You can set the idle as high as 2500. I'd go there and everywhere below that as low as it can idle. Start somewhere moderate like 900rpms or so. Let it get up to temp and learn there. Then adjust the idle to 1500. Let it cool off with a little time at 800rpm... then bump it up to 2000 to learn... then back it down again. It needs to learn the fueling requirements at idle before you ever take it out for a test drive... and certainly before you ever get into boost.
I daily drove mine for a year before installing boost so I my fuel map was dead on. The closed loop compensation (wideband fueling adjustment) percentage would often flutter between 0% and -0%. It was a rarity to see as high as 2%. She was dialed.
Then I added boost to the existing table values. Both for fuel and spark.
I had to do that manually. I kept my old values but just cut off every other row value. So instead of every 2.5kpa up the side, I only kept every 5kpa. I started at 20kpa (the lowest that registers anyway) and went up 5kpa every row across the left side. My rpm columns across the bottom didn't change. I made mine at custom intervals instead of the stock values. I started at 400rpms and I think I went up to 5900 in 200rpm increments. I am using the fullest amount of the maps. I did the same for both the fuel and spark maps. I decreased timing under boost but left everything alone under 100kpa. I just lowered the resolution of my NA maps.
Before you go in a first drive, get the idling as close as you can. It might take hours idling and adjusting. It won't learn shit until the coolant temp is over 160⁰F so don't bother adjusting anything until you're up to temp.
If you can, download the sniper software onto a computer. Look at the maps.. look for patterns. If there is a lot if adjustment in your 500-2500 idle, catty that on over to the idling kpa of the upper rpm range. If you have any revs, see if there's a big dip or plateau on where you've already learned. That will help it adjust more quickly to to fueling needs.
Then once you get a decent NA tune, you can get into boost.
Pull timing in boost and adjust your target air:fuel ratio in boost. At and below 100kpa, keep it about 12.5:1 the more boost you have, the richer you'll want it. How much boost are you planning?
With sniper, you can't just slap it on and expect it to be awesome for boost immediately. It needs a little help in those areas before can self-tune. It's not mind reader.. the more rpm and load conditions that it sees, the more it will learn. Eventually you can see what rpm and kpa levels that you cruise at and lean out the target air:fuel ratio in those areas to get better cruising mileage.
Love it!!!💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿
She's bad. Unreal power!
How is your truck doing?
@@EricErnst I sold the truck and got an 86 squarebody. It sounded like the rods had a light tap. I took the motor out as well as the Holley Sniper System. I haven't had a chance to take a look inside it. But the heads and etc will be going on whatever block I get. Like that procharger!!! 👀👀👀
@@EricErnst yea, I'm like maybe I should just get me a good block and a mild cam and through that procharger on???
@@QdotRich do you have the regular sniper or super sniper? You'll be out of fuel in a hurry with the regular 650 sniper. I had to set my rev limiter at 5200rpms and I'm still at 394lbs/hr out of 400lb injector. This charger has a rising boost curve, boost increases rapidly with rpm. At 5400rpms, I was commanding 456lbs/hr. .. I was leaning out. I'm ok for now with my regular 650 sniper and stock 4-bolt bottom end at 6.5psi. Now I need to do some other upgrades. Transmission is top on the list.
Did you have to add any extra ring gap to the piston rings or just let er rip? I’m asking cause I plan on getting a supercharger this winter but I don’t really want to have to take the motor completely apart if I can get away with it, I probably wouldn’t be beating the shit out of it all the time i put less than a thousand miles on every summer
I did not add any ring gap. I do not go full throttle for more than 20 seconds at a time. Rich holdener has mentioned that you're probably safe under 10 lbs without adding ring gap. I'm at 160kpa or 8.7psi @ 5300rpms. I also plan to add an air-to-water intercooler. That will lower boost and IATs a little. You know that 160kpa is about 60% more power on the top end and it has a rising boost curve so the low end torque isn't as brutal as a turbo or roots blower. I've got a pretty mild roller cam and pretty good heads and good exhaust on 355 cubic inches. That's the boost level you can expect to run with the stock pulleys. Comp cam's camquest software estimated 406hp@5500 and 463ft-lbs@3000rpms before the supercharger. 60% puts her around 649hp and I'm not sure on torque but the peak is definitely above 3000rpms. If your combo is making more N/A power, you'll be making a little less boost. But if you want to rev higher, you'll make more boost. I think the stock pulleys can run this supercharger around 7000 engine rpms before overspeeding the supercharger (I think it's rated at 52,000 rpms). I am using a 340lph in-tank fuel pump that I installed before the fuel injection.
I'm sitting at about 9.17:1 compression and only use 93 octane or above. I pull about 1 degree of timing per psi of boost and at the top end, I'm running 11.6:1 air:fuel ratio.
I scheduled a dyno session before the covid hit. I'm still waiting to dyno it, but I do have plans to get some real numbers.
The power is pretty incredible. I'm maxed out on the sniper's fuel injectors. I've heard of a boost tube on mustangs that supposedly adds 1-3lbs of boost without changing pulleys. It's basically a 4" intake tube. Currently I'm using the supplied 3.5" filter on the supercharger inlet. The intake sucks hot air directly from above the driver's side header. I have a 4" u-bend and plan to route a bigger filter away from the headers.
The air-to-water intercooler is a simple one from cxracing on ebay. It has 3" inlets and outlets and directs the air 90 degrees. It should replace the supplied charge tube nicely. I'll add a water pump and remote heat exchanger with a fan. I also have plans to install a blow off valve because I'm currently not using one at all. I might have to change the carb hat to fit the intercooler.
I'll detail that in a future video. I've been putting lots of miles on this truck. It's very easy to speed on the interstate. This thing just wants to rev.
Last weekend, I bought a built 4L80E and had a custom torque converter built for it. I broke a stock 4L80E that I had lying around from a different project.
I have a lot of plans and a shitload of footage from the last 6 months. I'll get something thrown together and uploaded as soon as work slows down a bit.
EFI is the way to go with these supercharger kits. You can add fuel and pull timing with a few clicks. I don't have to pull timing everywhere like I would with an old school distributor. I don't have to worry about a boost timing controller. I can leave full timing in until i get over 100kpa and then start to pull it as i build boost. Same with the air:fuel ratio. I can run wherever I want in part throttle and add a little extra fuel under boost. I don't have to worry about rejetting a carb and running rich everywhere. If you don't have fuel injection, I'd definitely recommend it first before the supercharger. You can build in safeguards to keep your engine safe much easier than with a carb and regular vacuum advance distributor.
I plan to do a series of videos on it.
Thanks for watching and commenting. What kind of vehicle are you looking to install it in and what kind of engine are you running. Are you looking at the vortech entry level carbureted kit that I used specifically?
I think you made a good choice by adding boost. This kit is super easy to bolt up. You don't have to change the intake manifold like a roots blower or mess with the exhaust for turbos. Bolt her on in a couple of hours and change the tune a little and you'll be smiling ear to ear in no time.
What website did you buy this from? I’m wanting one for my 6.0 and all I’m getting is the TREperformance
I got mine from summit racing. It's the vortech sbc carburetor entry level kit.
I have a vortec serpentine system on my 400 small block will this fit with the factory power steering pump?
I can't say with any certainty, but it fits my tbi serpentine setup.
So as someone that wants to do something like this to my truck, how much did the kit cost and how difficut was it to install ? (Edit: im asking this before watching the entire video)
The kit itself was super easy to install. It took maybe a couple hours with me filming it and changing the power steering pump.
The harder thing is getting all of the supporting mods done first. I'm not sure if I would do it on a carbureted engine. I love the fact that I can tune the motor for boost by just adjusting the tables for over 100kpa to have more fuel and less timing. I already had been driving my truck around for a couple years with the sniper system on it so my tune was dialed in. My closed loop compensation would rarely go outside of 2%. The fueling was dead nuts. I also tuned the timing curve with a knock gauge hooked to the stock knock sensor. The truck jumped off the ground before the supercharger. Adding it was very easy... and the power gain is incredible. I only pulled 1⁰ of timing per psi of boost but it has worked well. I have an air:water intercooler setup but I haven't installed it yet. Carburetors have excellent chsrge air cooling and can reduce IATs by as much as 100⁰F. So my relatively low boost and the charge air cooling from this carburetor style fueling keeps intake temps in check. I also run a 160⁰F thermostat with my dual fans set to come on at 174⁰ and 175⁰. The second fan has never come on in daily driving. I'm using a fan setup from a 07-14 Tahoe. I bought it from a national parts store chain and it has a lifetime warranty.
I installed a single 4" exhaust system in preparation for the supercharger and the extra exhaust flow requirements.
The supercharger kit itself is a very quick and easy install. If you go with a carburetor, get an msd boost timing master to pull timing in boost. The instructions say to set your timing very conservatively. That will give the engine a lazy feeling when not in boost.
Good luck with it. If you have any questions about it, feel free to ask.
I built my truck for low end torque. The parts are all perfectly matched. The supercharger adds some low end torque, but adds a lot of top end to it. The top end power is crazy. Very violent burnouts. It's pretty amazing. You'll love it.
would you have done all the upgrades? or in hindsight put stroker or 454 in it? just bought 93 with 5.7 tbi ,thanks
I like small blocks. I have a 1993 k2500 with a 2005 5.3L that I'm kinda LS swapping. Even if I had a big block, I'd still hop it up. I might have gone port fuel injection instead of tbi so I could tune fuel to individual cylinders. If I had an LS, I'd have modern fuel injection and a little better gas mileage. A big block would be a little tighter to work on. This little small block is super easy to work on. The engine bay has plenty of room. My current setup has a lot more torque than a stock big block. Tbi motors are not known for power production. A stock tbi 350 made anywhere between 190 and 215hp and 300lb/ft. A big block tbi made 230-255hp and 385-405lb-ft. You're getting a minimum of 85lb/ft. I think 87 was the first year for the 454 tbi. Unless your 86 is tbi. I'm not sure on the power rating of the 1986 truck big block with a carb. Surely the carb version made a little more power. Regardless, I think an rv cam would wake up either motor and not lose anything down below. If you can get by with emissions, lose the tbi for a carb. You're an old school guy anyway so you'd rather have it. A long time ago, I tried maxing out the tbi on my 1993 k2500 but the custom chip that I had burned for it wasn't worth a shit.
The fact that you already have a donor engine makes the swap a lot easier. Big blocks are really easy to make big power, and will last longer than a high strung small block. An rv cam in your big block with an aluminum dual plane intake and a set of headers would make an easy 400+hp big block that anybody would be proud of. You'll need to change both the heads and cam to make any decent power in a tbi small block.
If i had to do anything differently, I probably would have gotten slightly different heads. AFR heads flow better and aren't much more expensive. I have the low compression HD engine so I wanted the smallest combustion chamber I could find to bump it up from 8.4:1. Since I supercharged it anyway, I probably would have gone with AFR heads with a little bigger chamber and the standard 1955-1986 intake bolt pattern so my intake selection was a little better. Then I'd go with maybe 1 size bigger cam. The xfi252hr is an awesome cam for low end, but all of my other components add up to a killer low end torque. Way more torque than I need to putt around town. If I had a slightly bigger cam, the low end wouldn't be as brutal and the top end would be a little better. My supercharger loves to rev. The rising boost curve of a centrifugal supercharger focuses a lot of the power on the top end. An xfi260hr would add a couple hundred rpm to my powerband and lighten the low end. I don't like accidentally chirping the tires in town and I feel like a slightly bigger cam would shift the poweband just enough. I would also go with a holley super sniper or some sort of port fuel injection. The 4-100lb injectors are not quite enough for my current setup. I had to lower my rev limiter to 5250rpms to stop it from leaning out. My injector duty cycle goes through the roof in the upper rpm range. Technically the standard sniper should be good enough for about 800hp naturally aspirated if you go 100% duty cycle. I've lowered it because you want to run a little fatter under boost. I didn't think I'd outgrow the standard sniper so quickly.
Ultimately, the parts selection that I chose on this engine is how I would want to do it. I built it up over the course of a couple years. The cam and head choice was perfect for a naturally aspirated engine. The heads have awesome port velocity with their small 175cc runners and compression is higher with the tiny 56cc chambers. The 2604 performer air-gap intake was a good choice, it's the best one available for the 87-95 bolt pattern. I know I could hog out the 4 center holes to get a different manifold , but I'm fine with my selections. I'm making power in the range that I wanted. And a performer rpm air-gap probably has bigger runners that wouldn't work with my tiny heads.
I have a video about this next part but I haven't edited and uploaded it yet.. One thing I would have done sooner is get an overdrive transmission. 1990 was the last year they put the turbo 400 in these trucks. I thought it was heavy duty until I completely lost 2nd gear. I swapped in a 4L80E and love overdrive and the lockup converter. I've read on the internet that the small block never came with a 4L80E. My 1993 k2500 did. Anyway, my 1990 truck used to really scream down the highway in 3rd gear at 80mph. When I'd pass people, sometimes I'd see over 4000rpms. 2400rpms used to be 50mph. Now 2400rpms with the converter clutch locked in overdrive is 71mph. That's a big quality of life improvement. That's technically 42% more speed at the same rpm. Only 25% of that is from 4th gear. The rest is from converter slippage. My engine can easily pull 70mph at like 6% throttle. Mileage has significantly improved. Before, I'd spend a significant amount of time in my top gear. Putting around town at 25mph? 3rd. Interstate driving? 3rd. I needed another gear, bad.
That reminds me... if you have a 4L80E (or even a 4L60e), you may have to do some goofy stuff with the throttle position sensor and rpm signal to keep your trans shifting correctly. You could swap to an aftermarket transmission controller, but I think it can be done on a carbureted engine and the stock computer with a few clever tricks. You could also always just keep the trans with the big block.
If I were keeping the tbi, I'd probably do headers and roller rockers and intake and electric fans with a high flow air filter. I have videos on all of the stuff I did. That really woke up the motor and got way better gas mileage on the stock small block. If you have to drop one thing, lose the intake. If you can't find one for cheap, don't go out of your way to spend $450 on a nee intake for a 220hp motor. That list is as far as I'd go on the stock chip. You already know my experience with a custom chip. I have heard good things about chips from Harris performance. I don't have any personal experience with them but lots of subscribers have mentioned Brian Harris there. If you do stick with the tbi, call them first and see what they recommend.
Let me know the route you choose to go. A big block build is always fun but the small blocks can be fun too.
Thank you Eric
Can a 4 bolt 350 support this setup like for long term
As long as I don't run it lean, it will last a long time. It won't last as long as the stock 190hp engine, but it will be fine as long as I don't let anything catastrophic happen like a massive overrev (protected by a rev limiter in my tune) or an overheating issue (I have a new radiator, new fans, new water pump so it is less likely, but it could still happen), or a lean issue where I melt a piston or something (again, protected in my tune).
If I do blow it up, I'll tear it down and see what let go and make a video about it.
Hey man, I’m restoring a 1965 Chevy k10 and I’m gonna swap a sbc 350 from a 66 c10 into it, I want to put the universal vortec supercharger kit on it, would that be a bad idea? I’m not looking for boat loads of power, more so the sound and the cool factor, what do you think?
If it's carbureted, maybe.. sniper injected, absolutely. You'll need to pull timing and add fuel under boost. It's super easy with a programmable fuel injection system.
@@EricErnst thanks man, I was looking at the sniper fuel injection, but buying both of those is gonna cost a lot 🤑🤑🤑 can a stock sbc 350 handle some boost? I’m gonna keep the boost low
@@zebwhelchel4393 my bottom end is stock. I've had the supercharger on for over a year. I'm looking at about 8.5psi at 5200rpms.
@@EricErnst that’s awesome man, I’m gonna look into it 👍👍👍
@@zebwhelchel4393 I've got aftermarket heads and a roller cam to boot. A stock engine would see more boost because it can't flow as much air. Comp cams estimated 406hp@5500 and 463ft-lbs@3500rpms before the supercharger. I figure I'm a little over 650hp at the crank.
Centrifugal superchargers have a rising boost curve, they're not as brutal as a roots blower on the bottom end since they only make a few psi below 2000rpms. You could run a supercharger with a carb. It needs to be jetted for it. You'll need a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator and an electric fuel pump. You'll also need something to pull timing on under boost. Or just run your engine for less total timing. That will hurt your drivability and fuel economy when you're not under boost. Msd makes a boost timing master that allows you to pull timing 1⁰-3⁰ per psi. I'm pulling about 1⁰ and it is working well.
If I had to pick, I'd probably choose the sniper over supercharger. You can easily add the supercharger later like I did.. and when you do, it's ridiculously easy to adjust your tune for it.
The supercharger is capable of supporting 775hp. With a stock 250hp engine, you'll probably make 400+hp with a supercharger. I'm not sure but that's what I'd guess. It will push your tq and hp peaks up by 1000-1500rpms because it makes more boost higher in the rpm range.
A sniper doesn't make more peak power than a regular carb, but it makes up for it in drivability and part throttle power. You can get more aggressive with your timing curve and set it exactly how you want it with no mechanical limitations. There are literally 961 cells that you can modify for your timing table.
What water pump are you using to run the ls fans ?
I'm running a stock reverse rotation water pump for the truck's application. The back of the serpentine belt drives water pump so it's reverse rotation. Pickups use a long style pump. I just took the stock clutch fan off of it and made a mount for the radiator and shroud. I made a video that shows how to pull the stock fan off. It's my first electric fan video from a few years ago. I'm controlling the new fans with my sniper efi.
@@EricErnst hello I have a Lt1 350 11:1 compression will this centrifugal charger work on my set set up?
@@gearheadmoff1232 it depends on your induction system. If you are carbureted, absolutely. If you are running the stock LT1 manifold and throttle body, I'd try to find a different angle on the supercharger outlet. Mine aims rearward towards the back of the engine on the driver's side. I think having an outlet facing forward would be a better fit. Then all you'd need is a u-shaped charge pipe and silicone adapter.
Your water pump is gear driven so you don't need to worry about a long or short pump. I think the alternator relocation bracket will align things with your stock pulleys. My power steering pump needed a small spacer between the mounting plate and the pump itself. I'd want access toa bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors and tuning if you plan to run this supercharger kit on your engine. I'm assuming that if you want to run this charger, you are OK with making whatever modifications are necessary.
You need to pull timing when under boost. Aside from that, the timing should be ok. I only run 91 or higher octane. With your higher compression engine, you may need to run less timing or limit the boost with a blow-off valve.
With the si trim on the v3 does it share the oil with the engine? Or does it require for it to have separate oil?
The v3 is all self-contained with its own oil. The v1 and v2 share oil with the engine. The si trim is only referring to the compressor design and how much air it can move. I think there is an Sci, Si, Ti, and Y. The Si can support 775hp. I think it's rated at 1150cfm and 26psi and 55,000rpms. That's about 7000 engine rpms with the factory pulleys. This is all from memory.. check vortech's website for all of the exact specs. Www.vortechsuperchargers.com . I think the Y trim is a bigger compressor housing but the other 3 share the same housing. Again, I'm no expert. The sci is rated up to 725hp, si is 775, and ti is 950hp.
It comes with enough oil for 3 or 4 oil changes.
Eric Ernst i know the v3 is self contained. But i meant the v3 si.
Eric Ernst the reason i asked is because i ran a v3 that was converted to an si without changing the oil but the blower was already missing parts when i first had it, now im actually replacing it with a regular si that is not missing any interior parts, Stillen told me i dont have to change oil on the blower itself, but you tell me that it does, so idk.
@@andywu8558 ge way i understand it, the v1 and v2 are fed by pressurized engine oil. The v3 is self-contained. If you have an oil feed like and oil drain line, you don't need to change the oil. The v3 has a dip stick under an allen head bolt to check the oil level. I think tgey can be interchanged with oil feed and drain lines. Add lines to convert a v3 to engine oil fed v2... or add draim and fill plugs to convert a v2 to a self-contained v3. Just don't run it dry.
How much horsepower before and after if you were to guess
Comp cams estimated 406hp@5500 and 463ft-lbs@3000rpms before. After, I'm guessing 600ft-lbs and 625hp@5500 at 8psi. Since this video, I've seen 160kpa. If you follow the formula, it technically means you can add 60% to the naturally aspirated horsepower. I don't have a steady boost curve, so the torque curve changes from stock.. instead of falling off after peak torque, it hangs on because my supercharger has a rising boost curve.
I know 160kpa should be 649hp if you use that formula, but i figure the belt drive uses some horsepower and i pull about 1 degree of timing per psi of boost so I'm pulling a little timing to back power out a little. I'll bring the timing back when I get my air-to-water intercooler installed.
I had an appointment to get it dyno tested, but then covid hit so im waiting on that shit.
I also did a transmission swap. I'm sporting a 4L80E transmission with a higher stall converter now. Overdrive plus a lockup converter is a huge quality of life improvement. I can go 42% faster at the same rpm. 50mph at 2400rpm is now 71mph with the converter locked in 4th.
I have a lot of footage but I haven't thrown it together for a transmission swap video yet.
What size is the discharge tubing?
I'm going off of menory here. I believe it is 2.75"
I think the inlet is 3.5".
I got an air:water intercooler with 3" connections to replace the factory tubing.
@@EricErnst did you upgrade your injectors? I need to do that too I'm running out of injector
@@nickybias I've heard that you can disassemble the sniper unit and install larger injectors. But honestly, if I'm going to do that, I'll swap to a terminator x max system and go multi-port injection instead. I have other uses for a standard holley sniper system and can easily swap it over. I'd rather have full control over each cylinder compared to unknown fuel distribution.
The base sniper has 4 100lb/hr injectors. That's technically enough for 800hp naturally aspirated. If I'm going that big, I need to rethink my bottom end and I need to go with a more sophisticated fuel injection system. While I'm at it, the terminator x max system can control my 4L80E so I could get rid of my separate trans controller and go with one piece of software for both trans amd engine. I like my tci ez-tcu and the bluetooth tuning from my phone, but I think a single system would be better.
@@EricErnst I just put my vortech supercharger on and was having the high duty cycle same as you was curious if you went to a different injector like mentioned in the video mine is on a dart 421 small block Chevy I really don't want to buy a new unit lol trying to find a cheaper way
how the supercharger doing
It's kicking ass. The truck is so much fun to drive.
Are you using stock mechanical fuel pump and blow through cab? If so what are you running.
I am using a granatelli motorsports 340LPH in-tank pump. I have an earlier video on it. This truck originally came with an in-tank fuel pump. I upgraded before I installed my fuel injection system. I'm using holley sniper 4bbl tbi for fueling. It bolts on exactly like a 4150 carburetor. To use a carburetor, you'll need a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator amd some sort of electric pump. I've seen as high as 8psi of boost. Typical fuel pressure from a mechanical fuel pump won't be able to supply fuel if it's pushing against the boost pressure. You'll also need to pull timing if you are using a standard hei distributor. I pulled about 1 degree of timing per psi of boost. I control timing with my fuel injection system so it is easy to pull timing under boost but leave the rest of the timing curve alone. The fuel injection self-tunes to whatever air:fuel ratio I want. That keeps my fuel safe. You should also tighten up your spark plug gap for a supercharged application. You should also get a blow off valve for when you let off the throttle at high rpms.
This thing was fun before, but it's an absolute monster on the street now.
I'll list my engine specs so you can compare yours and roughly estimate the boost pressure that you will see. If you make more power, you should see a little less boost with the supplied pulleys.
The short block is a 9.2:1 4-bolt main 355 sbc. I have a comp xfi252hr. It's 252/264 advertised duration. 202/212@.050" .550"/.546" 113lsa. It's factory hydraulic roller lifter and I'm running 1.6 roller rockers. It's pretty small as cams go, bit I wanted low end for my 3/4 ton 4x4 pickup. Heads are trick flow super 23 175cc. They flow 242cfm@.500" and 245cfm @.600.
". They're not AFR's, but I like the small ports for better velocity and great throttle response. Intake manifold is an edelbrock performer air-gap 2604. I'm using flowtech afterburner 1 5/8" long tube headers and a custom y pipe to a single 4" open exhaust system. The headers are designed to help with scavenging but under boost, I don't think scavenging matters much. Comp cams estimated 406hp@5500 and 463ft-lbs@3500rpms before the supercharger. 8psi should give me around 50% more horsepower.
It bolted on super easy and quick. Just make sure you pull timing and make sure you have enough fuel pressure to supply fuel under boost. My low compression and fuel injection system made this a great candidate for supercharging. I absolutely recommend this system. It builds more power the more you rev it, so it's not quite as unforgiving as a roots blower with massive low end torque. Don't get me wrong, this engine still makes killer low end and off idle torque, the supercharger just focuses more on the top end. It's definitely more powerful off-idle than non-boosted.
I was running the stock th400 transmission. If you get this supercharger, I recommend an overdrive transmission. I hit redline in 3rd gear pretty easily with my 4.10 gears.. even in my 5800lb truck. I've since upgraded to a 4L80E and custom built converter.
I hope I answered everything you asked and more. If you want to know anything else, feel free to comment below.
@@EricErnst I have a zz4 crate motor stock. 355hp 410 torque 10.1 compression. Jegs tec said it would be okay to run just keep it under 5 psi. I go any higher I have to change the pistons. Anyhow thanks for the info much appreciated I'm going to buy it. Next ? What kinda psi are you running on fuel pressure?
@@EricErnst you wouldn't happen to have a part number for that holley sniper. There is a bunch of them ranging from 1400 to 2500 dollars
@@deadendgarage5401 @Andrew Mason www.summitracing.com/parts/SNE-550-511
That's a link to the exact sniper setup i bought. My fuel pressure is 50psi. It doesn't include the fuel pump. I got the fuel pump a long time ago from summit. It's an in-tank unit. If you have an older truck that didn't have an in-tank pump, you can get a frame mounted inline pump.. the sniper will not work with a mechanical fuel pump. It has its own fuel pressure regulator built in. You can get a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator but you probably won't need it for just a few pounds of boost. If you have enough injector, the computer will automatically increase the pulse width to give you the right air fuel ratio.
There is a sniper kit that includes a fuel pump and lines if you want to go that route. I think it includes a 255lph pump. That should be enough fuel for about 840hp naturally aspirated. The sniper is only rated for 650hp but can support roughly 800hp at 100% duty cycle.
@@EricErnst thanks for the info man. I will send a video when I'm done. Should be in a month or so lmao. Shits expensive.
Are you running your standard brakes? Or are you running a vacuum pump for your brakes?
My cam is pretty mild. I have plenty vacuum at idle. I haven't had any issues with them. I suppose I'd have reducedl braking if I was in boost with my foot on the floor while trying to brake..power beakrs will come back as soon as the throttle is closed.
@@EricErnst I only have 12 psi of vacuum for some reason. I have a stock cam. I about crashed. 1 of those I had brakes then I didn't kinda deals.
@@deadendgarage5401 so you idle at 20kpa? I used to convert everything into psi but I now I think it's easier to use kpa. 100 is atmospheric pressure, or wide open throttle. My engine idles in the 25-30kpa range, which is about 20-22 inches of mercury. It's short enough duration that it has great vacuum at idle.
I'm almost wondering if your throttle hung open. What kind of boost are you seeing at wide open? Or maybe the check valve in your brake booster failed.
Are you sure that your engine didn't stall and die, killing your vacuum? That would cause an unexpected loss of power brakes. I haven't experienced anything like that in the 2 years that I've had this supercharger installed.
There are a few variables that might cause a lack of power brake boost. Good luck with everything. Let me know what you find.
@@deadendgarage5401The stock sniper map sensor only reads down to 20kpa. Anything less/more just pegs the reading at 20kpa. When the efi system sees 20kpa, that's about 80kpa of vacuum, which is 11.6psi, or the 12psi of vacuum that you're talking about. That's a lot. That's 23-24 inches of mercury. Radical cams can have single digits.
@@EricErnst it unfortunately does not run my brakes. You need atleast 18 psi of vacuum to run power brakes. I just want to see if you was having any issues or if you was running manual brakes. Manual brakes is what I am changing to.
I think you need more gears for interstate driving lol
I've had a 4L80E with a mild converter and a tci trans controller for over a year and a half. I just haven't swapped it out yet. A lockup converter and overdrive gear would definitely be nice and certainly help fuel mileage. The 4L80E has a .75:1 overdrive and the lockup converter feels like it adds another gear. I'm sure rpms will drop over 30% when I'm locked up. The truck is nowhere near done, but the engine is getting closer.
Eric Ernst nice
@@nickwebb9937 Just checked the rpms driving with the new transmission. I can go 71mph at the same rpm as I could go 50mph before. That's 4th gear with the torque converter clutch locked up. Now I can go 55mph at 1700rpms. I imagine my fuel economy will improve significantly. In the past, with the 4L80E, I've gotten as good as 14.25mpg on a tank of mixed driving. In this pickup, I've gotten as good as 13mpg before the sniper. The carburetor was lean and the stock tbi was lean. Now I'm running a proper air:fuel ratio and making over triple the power. It's a fun truck. I could go 115mph at 5200 in 3rd gear before. Now I can go 153mph in 4th gear. Mathematically. The drop in rpms should get me at least a few mpg. .
Anyone ever say you kinda sound like Alex Jones? Lol
I had to look him up. No, no one has ever told me that before. Lol
Do I have to have a blow through cab.
Or a boost regular.
This is by far the worst test drive I’ve seen. Who bolts on a super charger then does a test run off road
I aim to please.