Відео

I uploaded this 38 second clip to show a guy how to save a gcf file. I did a tune for him. Yes, I did say hit cancel or whatever because I've already got my tunes saved. It was a super short video that gets directly to the point amd fulfilled its purpose of showing a single guy how to do it. If you want indepth coverage, go look up Joe Simpson on yt.

@@antonep4721 tbi just stands for throttle body injection. Holley makes a 4 barrel throttle body injection system that bolts in place of a 4 barrel carburetor. It's called a Sniper.

19.5v at 3.33A. 65w charger. I believe it is the factory HP charger that came with the laptop.

I have a Lenovo g400 im planning upgrading it i7 3720qm. It has the hm76 chipset and a 65watts power adapter. Do you think it will run without any issues?

I believe you will be thrilled with the results. The 2760qm is a quad core as opposed to a dual core. The performance will be much higher. If you haven't already, I'd recommend upgrading your storage from a hard disk drive to a solid state drive. Startup times will be under 20 seconds and programs will open much more quickly. It will add life to your old laptop! Cheers.

The shape of the pins allows a gap for the grease to push out from the bottom of the hole. I've never had a problem hydrolocking a brake caliper pin. I'd rather have the entire pin coated in grease and not allow any corrosion or rust. I agree that blind holes can crack castings when attempting to torque fasteners such as head bolts. This is not one of those cases.

I have not had an issue with that. Maybe try pulling off the egr valve and installing the fuel return line first. Or maybe install the fuel return line before the fuel feed line. I'm presently running an Edelbrock 2604 carbureted performer air-gap intake manifold.

You can see them side by side at about 5:37. Good luck with it.

Sorry. Shitty cameraman. He's fired.

You said you have a hm65 chipset. That is your limiting factor. That allows only sandy bridge 2000 series chips. An ivy bridge processor will not boot in an hm65 system. The fastest processor you can use is a 2960xm. I think that anything with a quad core will do great. I believe there is a 2630qm quad core that would work well. I believe that is the lowest sku quad core. Anything with quad cores is leaps and bounds above a dual core. I don't notice a difference between the 3840qm and the 3940xm. The only difference I've noticed between the 2920xm and the 3840qm was the cpu temp under load. My 2920xm would regularly would see 100⁰C while rendering videos. I've installed a few sandy bridge quad cores in laptops for friends and parents and my wife. They all feel snappy and responsive after the upgrade.. And you can pick up old laptops for very cheap. I haven't benchmarked many of them, side by side, but for daily tasks, any quad core will work very well compared to a dual core. I also recommend a sata ssd storage drive. Unfortunately, an ivy bridge cpu will not work, but I recommend a 2630qm or any quad core sandy bridge chip that you can find cheap. Good luck breathing new life into your old laptop. Comment here again if you need anything else.

Just here as a sound example for someone who may want to do this to their truck. I'm glad I installed headers and built a whole exhaust system for it.

What are you using to fuel your engine? I really like the sniper efi to ensure that I don't lean out and can keep timing where I want it under boost.

@EricErnst I haven't installed it yet right now I just have a standard 4150 holley.but plan on upgrading to a sniper for the blow through application

@@kdog-xc6ib it can absolutely be done on a standard 4150 carb. That's what it was designed for. I do like the added safety of the sniper. I went sniper before the supercharger. Just to make sure I had the kinks worked out before I went with boost.

@EricErnst yea I might just run it with the carb for now see how it does unless I decide to bite the bullet and buy the holley sniper cause this kit was expensive enough

@@kdog-xc6ib I understand completely. I was running sniper for about a year before I bit the bullet and bought this kit. It was a touch over $3k when I bought mine in February of 2020. It COMPLETELY changed the attitude of the truck. It was a pretty easy install. It was quick before (meh, 405hp estimated at the crank) but this really unleashed the power. What kind of combo are you running it on? Heads/cam/headers? I have a baby roller cam. 202⁰/212⁰@.050". It starts strong and violently comes to life the higher I rev it. I run 93 octane fuel so it's pretty expensive compared to a little car but it's a blast to drive.

Yes. This manifold retains all of the stock mounting locations. It is a quarter inch taller than the stock manifold but everything bolts up the same. Even the vacuum port for the power brakes is in the factory location. On the performer air-gap carbureted manifold #3604, I had to modify the brake vacuum line for it to fit into a different location.

Yes. A few months after this video was filmed, 2nd gear went out. The truck currently has a 4L80E in place of the stock th400 trans.

These engines use self-aligning rocker arms from the factory. No guideplates. I used the same style on the aftermarket Trick Flow heads that I installed on this engine about a year later.

Which one? The stock one? The Edelbrock tbi 3704 manifold or the carbureted Edelbrock 2604? Yes to all 3. The carb intake is currently on the truck but I may go another route in the next iteration of the build. The stock tbi manifold and Edelbrock tbi intake are both sitting in my shed.

Hey man, I dig this look too. The truck has a homemade 2.5" body lift and 3" spindle lift up front. Stock rear suspension. It's got 4.10 gears with a lunchbox locker in the 7 5" 10 bolt. I'm looking to upgrade to 4.56 gears because it's a little tall. I originally regeared for 33x12.50s in the rear and 4.10s were perfect. These 38.5s require a 4.88 or 5 .13s to keep the original cruise rpms.. not to mention the heavier weight of the bigger meat. I actually did add some old school snubber style traction bars to combat wheelhop on burnouts. I have a built 2.8L v6 in the truck. The motor came out of my 83 S15 so it's a carbureted version, not the tbi version. Not that there's a huge difference anyway. I have ported big valve heads, edelbrock intake, holley 4 bbl carb, roller tip rocker arms, headers, an edelbrock cam. 253⁰/263⁰ advertised, I believe. I figure it's making about 200hp. I wanted to keep the weight down so the front end doesn't sink in mud. It's what I could afford when I was growing up so it's kinda evolved into this caricature of a truck. With a 3" body lift, you'll need to trim the bedsides a lot. I cut all the way up to the joint of the inner wheelwells of the bed. I think I hammered the folded seam flat to avoid hitting the tires at full compression. I don't make a lot of power but I haven't had any issues with the rear axle. I have a differential girdle as a diff cover. I don't know how much it helps, but I bought it back in like 2003 so I've kept it. It's like 1" thick aluminum and has feet that press into the center of the carrier bearing caps on either side of the differential. The truck isn't a speed demon with the tall tires and small motor, but it slings mud off road and I dig the look. It's a pretty cool old truck. I also like the 5 speed manual transmission. Feel free to ask any more questions.

@@EricErnst that 92 of mine has an automatic transmission. I haven't spent a lot of time with it just yet due to work and things, I think it's got the 4l60E I believe. I could be mistaken though. It should have overdrive either way. I would like to run 5.13s or mabe a little bigger, because of the overdrive, but I don't think they will fit in a 10 bolt. I'm going to have to swap to a 12 bolt 3/4 tone and shortened it up to fit, if the gear set will fit in the 12 bolt. I got to check on that. In my opinion, a 1 ton is too much axel for a S10, but will go that route if 5.13s and Eaton locker won't fit. I also am going to put a set of chrome 70's style traction bars under the leaf springs. Don't know if people will even see them being the boggers so big, but they'll be on there. That's cool that you did that, I Dig It! I don't want to spend a bunch of money building the 4.3L that's in it, but I am going to do some TBI mods, cold air intake and a 2.5" exhaust system with headers and duel origional 40 series flowmasters, just like what the fox body stangs had back in the late 80's early 90's that had that legendary sound they were famous for, and some long 22" tips out the back. That 4.3L from the factory listed at 160hp, I figure I can get 200hp if not, pretty close out of that. Coupled to a 2200 stall and a shift kit for the tranny, that should make for a pretty fun ride! I have searched the internet for a while to find someone else out there that has the same ideas that I have, your video is the only one I found, I was starting to think I was the only one lol!!! You haven't had a problems yet out of your 5 speed tranny running those big meats and higher gears?? Also, I haven't done a bunch of checking yet on the internet, I know they make a 3" spindle lift for the front, I wonder if there is a taller lift for the front. Mabe 2" taller springs? Or mabe a 6" combo for the front end. I would like to go around 6" because of the skinny street tires. Trying to get as close to level as possible. You have Any suggestions, I would definitely appreciate it!!!

The smell eventually went away. The oil had seeped deep into the metal and couldn't be removed by simply airing it out.

It's a reusable thermostat gasket. Mr gasket brand. Silicone seal around the perimeter of an aluminum block. That way I can pull the thermostat housing whenever I want and not need to worry about having a paper gasket or rtv. 87-95 truck v8s were flat tappet cams. The blocks were roller block castings. Most had the 3 bosses drilled and tapped for the spider but not all.

@EricErnst That thermostat doesn't use the flat type thermostat gasket. It uses a o ring type. And you only have roller rockers. If you had roller lifters that spider better be on those factory drilled out bosses

@@FredColberg-jk5yp what the hell are you talking about? Roller rockers can be run with a flat tappet cam. The motor wouldn't last 10 minutes with roller lifters and no spider.

@EricErnst you're running around in circles. Yes you can use roller rockers without a spider but you cannot run roller lifters without one! Period. I realize that you have flat tappets in there now with roller rockers. Way you have it it doesn't need the spider. As for thermostat gasket those manifolds are machined for the newer style gasket the runs around the outer lip of thermo and sits in the machine area in which it sits.

@@FredColberg-jk5yp I'm not running roller lifters. Stock 87-95 truck cam is flat tappet. I later installed a roller cam, but this one is a stock flat tappet cam with flat tappet lifters. You're the one running in circles.

Heads were $675 each. Cam was $280. Lifters, pushrods, cam plate, spider, and lifter retainers were $200. Headers were a steal at $80. Roller rockers were $200. Intake was $350. Fuel pump was $125. Hei distributor was $100. Sniper setup was $1000 with $50 off from Summit. I swapped to holley hyperspark distributor and cd ignition box and coil. That setup was $550 total. $250; $250; and $50, respectively. Exhaust was 3" straight pipe through the stock tailpipe. Air cleaner was like $40 when I bought it. 14x3 K&N filter was $50. It's a pretty open question. I tried to answer it to the best of my ability.

I've had issue with straps disintegrating so I prefer to tilt the bed. I removed the bed so I could film the process of changing the fuel pump easier. If you only fully remove the driver's side, and loosen the passenger's side bed bolts, you can tilt the bed and work underneath easier. As you said, to each their own. I also tend to need to work on the fuel pump whenever my fuel tank is full. An extra couple hundred pounds of unstable weight sloshing around makes things a little more difficult.

You'll either need to get an adapter or a different sensor.

It sad cause it’s the one that came in the box from jegs

@@rjsrailroad6166 the adaptors or the sensor? What manifold did you use? This edelbrock tbi one? My edelbrock manifold didn't need an adapter.

@rjsrqilroad6166 what did you end up doing?.. I’m having the same problem ..

@@EricErnst do you have the part number for the sensor you used? Or know where to get the same one you got .. mine won’t fit either.. the hole is kinda big

The intake manifold is an Edelbrock 2604 performer air-gap 4bbl carbureted intake manifold. It's drilled to fit the stock tbi heads. My heads are aftermarket aluminum drilled in the 87-95 tbi bolt pattern, so a tbi manifold will fit. The center 4 bolts are at a 72⁰ angle instead of the traditional 90⁰ on the pre-86 manifolds.. and the 8 outside corner bolts of the 87-95 pattern are the same as the pre-86.

What would you like to know?

@@EricErnst just want to know what’s needed right now it’s got a Holley tbi edebrock manifold and a 383 stroker kit I can’t get a chip burned anywhere I just want to know what manifold to run and what holley to use and other than a vortec fuel pump what else would I need

@@stevenlopez6645 are you running stock heads? That will dictate the intake manifold that you'll need. 87-95 bolt pattern is a little different than pre-86. It's a stroker, so you're running 10% more cubes. How big of a cam are you running? If you're making decent power, a 255lph vortec fuel pump won't keep up. A 340lph pump comes with the sniper master kit. I'm running a 340lph in-tank pump. The pump said 82-02 Camaro, but it fit my 90 k2500 sending unit just fine. You'll need an intake manifold with a square bore 4150 mounting flange. Just a regular 4 barrel holley carb. Wiring is relatively easy. You can get an hei distributor and run mechanical timing or get a hyperspark distributor and let the sniper control it. I like the sniper controlling timing. If you want to mess with your tbi, I am actually looking at 350hp at the flywheel through my stock tbi unit (with 2.5x the stock fuel pressure) and a modified computer from dynamicEFI.com. The computer was $460 and I can tune it with my laptop. I can tune with a wideband O2 sensor. I've got a set of aluminum heads and a roller cam that I'm going to install. The setup isn't exactly intuitive, but it works. You need to do a LOT of reading. The tuning is done with tunerpro, free software. It reminds me a lot of hptuners.. but with stripped down features. Mine is in a 1992 c1500, after all. The processor was something like 15hz. Ultimately, it's limited on fuel and the power that it can support, but it's a cool concept to keep the tbi. I paid way too much to have only 350hp out of a 350. But it's a quirky oddball combo that I like. The sniper is completely different. Very intuitive. Easy to set up. And supports much more power.

Heads are stock resurfaced right now it’s has the tbi performer intake I bought the engine second hand so don’t know exactly what cam it has I would say it’s mild not to aggressive then again it’s on a stock ecu so it runs ok not the best and ok I didn’t know the pump came in the kit and ideally I’d like the sniper to control the timing I feel like it’d be easier I

@@stevenlopez6645 I recommend getting the bare kit rather than the master kit. The master kit comes with new rubber fuel lines and an inline pump that mounts on the framerail. These trucks came with efi, so we can run a higher pressure fuel pump in the stock sending unit inside the tank. It will save a few hundred bucks. . Money that can be spent on a holley hyperspark distributor. I recommend using their distributor because it plugs right into the sniper harness and it includes a tool to set the timing advance at 50⁰ btdc. The stock pointer only goes to maybe 12⁰. You don't need to mess with measuring the diameter of your harmonic balancer and calculating the distance between degree ticks and building a small tape to stick into the balancer. It's all in the tool and you only need to check the timing when you get the engine running. I think that makes it easily worth the cost of a hyperspark over another aftermarket distributor. If the heads are stock, you can run an Edelbrock 2104 performer or 2604 performer air-gap manifold. There isn't much of a difference in performance between them. Although, in a manifold shootout, the performer air-gap made the most torque at 3,000rpms. More than even the hallowed performer rpm air-gap. I ordered my set of trick flow heads to be drilled for the 87-95 bolt pattern. I'm running a 2604 air-gap. But last time I looked, it was over $400. There are certainly other brands that you can choose. Just make sure that it's drilled for a square bore 4150 flange and the intake bolt pattern is 87-95. There is a much better selection in the pre-86 and 96-up vortec bolt patterns. You can modify the center bolt holes a little to fit, but that's up to you. The center 4 bolt holes are drilled at a 72⁰ angle rather than 90⁰ like the 86-older manifolds. The tbi has a big cube for a plenum that necessitated the change. The center 4 bolts are 18⁰ more vertical so mechanics can reach the bolts more easily. There may be some single-plane intake manifolds, but they are tuned for higher rpms. I'd recommend a dual plane for street driving. A dual plane will make more power than a single plane until about 4500-6000rpms. Your truck will likely never spend time above that, so a dual plane is the only logical choice. The stock cylinder heads are limited on flow and won't make a ton of power. A stock 255lph vortec replacement fuel pump will be able to support anything that the stock cylinder heads can produce. The stock heads flow something like 180cfm on the intake. That means you'll have to push them and have all of the other supporting mods to make a peak of 360hp. Cam, intake, headers, exhaust. With a stock cam, the peak horsepower number will be largely unchanged.. while torque will increase. The peak horsepower rpm will drop by about 10⁰ because the engine is larger and ingesting more air at the same rpm. The top end is tuned for a certain amount of air. That means the peak hp rpm will drop. Extra low end torque is not necessarily a bad thing. Everyone loves a torque monster with loads of torque off-idle. In a naturally aspirated fuel injected combination, the 255lph should be good for 650hp. I'm running a 340lph pump in a higher pressure boosted application so I'm only good enough for about 600hp. I had to limit my rpms because I was out of injector/pump. Luckily, I can control my transmission with my phone so I lowered the shift points and I'm good to go with 'only' 600ish hp.

No. I had to slightly modify it. I cut and re-welded the arm a little. I think it needed twisted very slightly to go into first gear. The arm that slips into the frame and hooks to the linkage arm coming from the shifter on the column. 96-up trucks used a shift cable. That might be a no-weld solution.

@@EricErnst good stuff man , thanks for reply. I’m going to try and modify the linkage as well. If that fails I’m probably going with a floor mounts shifter.

Those aren't necessarily this same style. If everything is truly stock, you'll have standard body, non self-aligning rockers. Pull a valvecover and check.. if you have pushrod guideplates, you don't need self-aligning. If you have perimeter bolt valvecovers, you don't need narrow-body. I have centerbolt with no guideplates.. so I'm using narrow self-aligning. I hope that makes sense. As far as power goes, it will probably add a few hp. The roller bearings will help more at higher rpm.. and the higher lift will help take advantage of better cylinder head flow. You have smog era head that aren't known for great flow. 1.6s will give you about 6% more valve lift than stock. I've read magazine articles that claim 25+ hp. But they had good heads and big cams. On a stock small block, I'd expect 8-13hp with 1.6 roller rockers. I'm running a set of scorpion 1.7 roller rockers on my 92 c1500. They made a difference but I haven't quantified it yet. That's 13% more valve lift than 1.5s.

amzn.to/3Iy2IJh Here's an Amazon link to some 1.6s. I forgot to mention that stock will also use 3/8" rocker studs.

Unfortunately, if you have a processor that ends in U, the chip is soldered to the motherboard. I don't believe you can upgrade that cpu. I was lucky in a couple of different ways. First, that i had a 2370M processor.. one that I could swap cpus in and out of the socket with ease. Secondly, I had a motherboard and chipset that would accept either my 2000 series cpu or a newer 3000 series cpu. I was also lucky that every chip that I tried worked. I've heard some say that certain laptop brands have a "white list" of acceptable processors. Only chips on the list will boot. First, I tried an i7 2640m. It was still a dual core, but with higher clock speeds than my i3. Then I tried an i7 2920xm. Then I tried a 3840qm and finally, I settled on the fastest chip available, a 3940xm.

When you do change the pump, I'd recommend splicing a ground wire into the harness. Run the original ground onto the frame, but also run that wire directly back to the battery. I think a big problem with the fuel pumps os that they don't gave a good enough ground and they burn up. Good luck with your old ride.

@@EricErnst I like that idea a lot. Bad ground causes lots of problems on cars. And fuel pump ground is critical. I imagine if the ground gets degraded, but still enough ground to let the pump run, maybe the high resistance of the bad ground causes the motor to not get enough current it needs and makes it struggle and fail early? Or maybe the pump burns up because it still tries to draw the power it needs, and the high resistance ground makes it draw excessive current to keep getting the needed power, and that burns up the little motor? Thx for the idea, I'll incorporate that. I'll also re-make the exisiting ground to make it solid.

Yes. And the hitch most likely needs to be removed to access the rear bolts. And the 3 screws for the fuel filler neck. And unplug the taillight harness at the rear.

Yeah. I'm running flowtech afterburner headers. 49156-1FLT. Check the video description. The th400 trans broke 2nd gear within a year after this video. It now has a 4L80E. Overdrive and a lockup converter clutch are major quality-of-life improvements!

@@EricErnst I have a tb350 with Street and strip shift kits. It will loose traction it hits second so hard lol did your how much 0-60 did it increase? Probably a second or 2 ?

@@zachnickles7655 I'd done some other motor upgrades in the meantime so it wasn't an apple to apple comparison. I'm also very traction limited. I need to start doing 10-70 or 20-80. The truck currently has different cylinder heads, cam and valvetrain, intake manifold, exhaust, fuel injection system, and boost than it had in this video. Over triple the flywheel horsepower of the stock rating. If I had traction, I could do 0-60 in well under half the time now.. according to the calculator I've used.

@@EricErnst go to a 245 that’s 9.6 inches wide. Traction is mostly in the tires. I’m assuming you still use your truck as a truck. If not traction bars and a softer leaf will help it roll the weight to the rear tires

@@zachnickles7655 it's an 8 lug k2500. It has 4.10 gears in both diffs. It's got a g80 in the rear. It has traction bars on the stock leaf springs. It came factory with 245/75R16s. I'm looking at a new set of 285/75R16s. . Although I've got a set of 33x14-16 mud tires. They're super swamper boggers so a skinnier tire would have better on-road traction.

In this video, it was Flowtech afterburner headers with a Flowtech 2½" to 3" y pipe. Cat delete. Muffler delete. Stock single 3" tailpipe. So it's basically open headers with a 3" tailpipe. I've since built a 3"-into-4" y-pipe and run it with 4" single exhaust system for a 6.5L TD.

Here is how I built this exhaust system. ua-cam.com/video/a4brqi3Oas8/v-deo.html

Here is me building my single 4" system. ua-cam.com/video/8sXAuQEbDCc/v-deo.html

It should work but sometimes the bios doesn't allow for certain cpus. I'm currently running an i7 3940xm in this very laptop. My 2960xm seemed to get pretty warm when rendering videos. Like up to 105⁰C. If your chipset allows it, I'd go for the newer 3000 series chips. If you have an hm65 chipset, you're stuck with the sandy bridge 2000 series and the ivy bridge 3000 will not work.

You'll need a computer and the applicable sensors to control it. Or you can get an aftermarket trans controller like I did. I love my aftermarket trans controller. I can completely change the attitude of my truck. I can change the shift points at wide open throttle. I can add paddle shifters. I can add manual control of the lockup torque converter clutch. Or change tire size to calibrate the speedometer. It's all much better than stock. You'll need a throttle position sensor regardless. Holley makes one that fits the choke linkage on their 4bbl carbs. Or there is a remote mount tps sensor that will add a sensor hooked up to the throttle linkage. I chose a tci remote tps sensor for my holleysniper setup. It didn't like it when i tried to share a tpd signal with the efi and trans controller. The remote tps works well.

For a 5800lb, 30 year old 190hp farm truck, it's fine. In this first round of modifications, I just wanted to get better gas mileage without messing with the stock efi. It wound up making the engine pretty lean under wide open throttle .. without touching the internals.. stock long block, cam and heads. The stock heads are the worst-flowing ever produced by GM. The cam is very short duration and has only .385"/.402" lift. Peak torque and hp rpms are 2400/4000, respectively. 6 months after this intake install, I installed an RV roller cam and aftermarket aluminum heads. The heads feature the smallest intake runners available. 175cc. That's smaller than the stock tbi swirl port heads. The combustion chambers are 56cc, smaller than the 64cc chambers of the tbi heads. But the aftermarket heads flow 50-60% more. The new cam is very small by aftermarket standards, but its 202⁰/212⁰@.050" number is within a degree of a stock 400hp/400lb-ft LS2 engine. The 550"/.546" is about .025" more lift than the stock LS2. Along with that, my new heads flow more than LS2 heads. Better head flow and more valve lift than the 400hp LS2. Comp cams estimated 406hp@5500 and 463lb/ft@3500. That's 163lb/ft and 216hp over stock. Since then, I've added a centrifugal supercharger capable of supporting 775hp. I'm estimating 625ish hp. At 9.5psi of boost, I can assure you, it is no longer a dog. It roasts tires on command. God bless. A little constructive criticism goes a long way.

I have the standard radio and not the cassette player with equalizer. That is thr factory installed pocket that goes in place of the tape player/equalizer. That's also where aftermarket radios are often installed. You can find them on ebay for about $40. 88-94 chevy truck center dash cubby bezel.

@@EricErnst Great, thanks for the info. 👍🏻

That's the beauty of the internet. Thanks for the comment. The algorithm has noted it.

Agreed. These are simple. My 1990 Silverado K2500 8 lug (and my matching 1993) have the rotors mounted inboard of the axle flange. All 8 wheel studs are pressed through them. It's easier to pull the cv axle and hub bearing. I did a rear disc brake conversion on my 90. I have to drain and pull the differential cover, pull the c clips, and then pull the axleshafts to access the rotors. And even then the wheel studs need to be removed. It's a real pain in the ass compared to 2 simple caliper bracket bolts! Good luck with your brakes!