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Eric Ernst
Приєднався 15 гру 2012
This channel is dedicated to chronicling my automotive endeavors. I'm a better wrench than a cameraman. Come check my old stuff out.
Water Pump and Electric Fan Conversion on a 1992 GMC Sierra 1500
Follow along as I introduce a new truck to the fleet. It's a 1992 GMC Sierra C1500.
It has a 350 TBI engine with a TH700R4 transmission and 8.6" 10 bolt rear axle. It has 242k miles on it and belonged to an older man. I bought it from his grandson. He said that it had been mostly sitting for the past 10 years.
I worked overnight on a Friday night and when I got back to my pickup to drive home, the water pump was making a terrible noise. It didn't last a half mile before the bearing completely failed and it schucked the belt and blew coolant everywhere. A coworker towed me back and gave me a ride home so I could get some sleep.
This video was filmed the next afternoon after getting some parts.
I hadn't planned to start the performance upgrades so soon, but duty calls. I didn't get a proper before 0-60 test. Even though the numbers don't show it, I think that an electric fan can always give you more power and reduce stress on the water pump bearing. . as long as you can get enough airflow from the fan.
Here are a few Amazon links to similar parts.
Idler pulley 231107 amzn.to/34TzmE5
Tensioner pulley 231081 amzn.to/3FwhWKs
RL44 relay and socket amzn.to/3fAEoY8
Water pump amzn.to/3FATRC3
4060955 serpentine belt amzn.to/3AalSze
16" fan kit with 175-185F thermostatic switch and relay amzn.to/3FGnt0W
Dragy performance monitor amzn.to/3AfLhrt
Thanks for watching. Like, Comment, and Subscribe as you see fit.
Follow along as I perform maintenance on this vehicle from sitting so long and upgrade some speed parts. (I can't help myself).
It has a 350 TBI engine with a TH700R4 transmission and 8.6" 10 bolt rear axle. It has 242k miles on it and belonged to an older man. I bought it from his grandson. He said that it had been mostly sitting for the past 10 years.
I worked overnight on a Friday night and when I got back to my pickup to drive home, the water pump was making a terrible noise. It didn't last a half mile before the bearing completely failed and it schucked the belt and blew coolant everywhere. A coworker towed me back and gave me a ride home so I could get some sleep.
This video was filmed the next afternoon after getting some parts.
I hadn't planned to start the performance upgrades so soon, but duty calls. I didn't get a proper before 0-60 test. Even though the numbers don't show it, I think that an electric fan can always give you more power and reduce stress on the water pump bearing. . as long as you can get enough airflow from the fan.
Here are a few Amazon links to similar parts.
Idler pulley 231107 amzn.to/34TzmE5
Tensioner pulley 231081 amzn.to/3FwhWKs
RL44 relay and socket amzn.to/3fAEoY8
Water pump amzn.to/3FATRC3
4060955 serpentine belt amzn.to/3AalSze
16" fan kit with 175-185F thermostatic switch and relay amzn.to/3FGnt0W
Dragy performance monitor amzn.to/3AfLhrt
Thanks for watching. Like, Comment, and Subscribe as you see fit.
Follow along as I perform maintenance on this vehicle from sitting so long and upgrade some speed parts. (I can't help myself).
Переглядів: 701
Відео
April 2018 0-60mph tests
Переглядів 1492 роки тому
Here is a few 0-60 pulls on a carburetor before I swapped to Holley Sniper. The th400 transmission hadn't been adjusted to shift at a higher rpm. It still shifted at 4,000. I had used some engine simulation software to estimate the power of the new combo. I just came across this old video and thought I'd upload it. It is very old.. I'm pretty sure I was still running 2.75" exhaust. Just thought...
I had to put a muffler on my supercharged truck.
Переглядів 1262 роки тому
The exhaust note of my supercharged truck was deafening. I needed to quiet her down some.. but I certainly didn't want to introduce any restrictions to the exhaust system. I have a good relationship with the guys at my local heavy duty truck parts supplier and found a resonator for a semi truck. They got me the perfect 5"IDx10"L straight through resonator to kill some of the sound on my truck's...
AirAid 200-996 (07-14 GM full size truck) Modular Intake Tube 2009 Tahoe 5.3L
Переглядів 1 тис.3 роки тому
Here I replace the stock air intake tube for a smoother AirAid MIT without all of the baffles and silencers. I use an app called Dragy for the performance measurements. I did 4 separate 0-60 tests directly before and 4 directly after the install. Each showed over 0.30s improvement. The 4 tests were not all done in the exact same spot, but the before/after tests were done in the same location an...
1990 K2500 4L80E install part 2: Redemption
Переглядів 1373 роки тому
Here I explain what went wrong last time and fix it... and replace the entire transmission again with a built trans and a custom built torque converter.
4L80E install in a 1990 K2500 Silverado.
Переглядів 8473 роки тому
Here I change the stock TH400 transmission to a 4L80E. The 4L80E shares the first 3 gear ratios with the TH400, but it includes an overdrive gear and a torque converter with a lockup clutch. With short tires and 4.10 axle gears, my truck was begging for another gear. I'd often cruise on the interstate at up to 4000rpms. That's just too much. 2400rpms at 50mph in Drive turned to 71mph at 2400rpm...
Rear Axle Upgrades on the K2500. Traction bars, Disc Brakes, and Shocks (reupload to fix captions)
Переглядів 2,2 тис.3 роки тому
Here I install new parts on my old 14 bolt 9.5" semi floating rear axle. Pro Comp ES9000 rear shocks. amzn.to/3ojWRej LugNuts4x4 rear disc conversion kit semi float. amzn.to/3ni6b14 Tuff Country traction bars. amzn.to/2LoHKBW Everyone has seen a big truck with 10' long traction bars. They aren't really my style, but I do want to avoid wheelhop and axlewrap. The Tuff Country bars should help som...
Update on P.O.S10. Bigger rear tires
Переглядів 5743 роки тому
I have a 1986 Chevy S10 that I call project P.O.S10. It looks like a pile but it's a blast to drive. The best part? I only paid $200 for the truck back in 2003. It was completely stock with a broken 4 cylinder engine and 4 speed manual transmission. Bare bones.. manual steering, manual brakes, manual windows, no air conditioning from the factory. Hell, there isn't even a headliner. It's just ba...
Vortech V3 Si supercharger unboxing and install
Переглядів 11 тис.4 роки тому
Here I unbox and install an entry level carburetor supercharger kit on my old 1990 Silverado. I also change the oil and drive around. The next video will be a review and then I will finally start a Holley efi tuning series to show the changes I've made to set up a timing table and adjustments to run a standard sniper tbi on boost. The truck has incredible power everywhere now. My cam and head s...
First start with boost. Stay tuned for install video.
Переглядів 5794 роки тому
First start with boost. Stay tuned for install video.
Newest speed part for the Silverado. Boost. Stay tuned.
Переглядів 1944 роки тому
Newest speed part for the Silverado. Boost. Stay tuned.
WeatherTech 110008 Mud Flap Installation 2009 Chevy Tahoe
Переглядів 1,9 тис.4 роки тому
WeatherTech 110008 Mud Flap Installation 2009 Chevy Tahoe
Installing 4" diesel exhaust on my 1990 Silverado K2500
Переглядів 8614 роки тому
Installing 4" diesel exhaust on my 1990 Silverado K2500
2009 Tahoe: Front and Rear Brake Pads and Rotors
Переглядів 11 тис.4 роки тому
2009 Tahoe: Front and Rear Brake Pads and Rotors
Upgrading Radiator and new Electric fans
Переглядів 7524 роки тому
Upgrading Radiator and new Electric fans
How to save a Sniper global configuration file to the sd card.
Переглядів 6 тис.5 років тому
How to save a Sniper global configuration file to the sd card.
How to Build a Kickass Gaming/Video Editing PC
Переглядів 1635 років тому
How to Build a Kickass Gaming/Video Editing PC
Engine Prep, Sniper Install, and First Start
Переглядів 2,2 тис.5 років тому
Engine Prep, Sniper Install, and First Start
Why I haven't uploaded any 0-60 tests lately.
Переглядів 7025 років тому
Why I haven't uploaded any 0-60 tests lately.
Installing a catch can on a GDI engine.
Переглядів 6715 років тому
Installing a catch can on a GDI engine.
How to change the fuel pump in an 88-98 GM Full Sized Truck
Переглядів 22 тис.5 років тому
How to change the fuel pump in an 88-98 GM Full Sized Truck
Changing the Window Regulator and Motor in a GM N body.
Переглядів 3625 років тому
Changing the Window Regulator and Motor in a GM N body.
How to Remove the bed from an 88-98 GM Truck
Переглядів 24 тис.5 років тому
How to Remove the bed from an 88-98 GM Truck
Rebuilding the Exhaust System on my Silverado
Переглядів 1 тис.5 років тому
Rebuilding the Exhaust System on my Silverado
Seriously? Hit cancel or whatever??/
I uploaded this 38 second clip to show a guy how to save a gcf file. I did a tune for him. Yes, I did say hit cancel or whatever because I've already got my tunes saved. It was a super short video that gets directly to the point amd fulfilled its purpose of showing a single guy how to do it. If you want indepth coverage, go look up Joe Simpson on yt.
That looks like a efi setup not tbi
@@antonep4721 tbi just stands for throttle body injection. Holley makes a 4 barrel throttle body injection system that bolts in place of a 4 barrel carburetor. It's called a Sniper.
my toshiba l755 i3 2310m to upgrade i7 3940xm and i7 2960xm pls help ? I turkish my english bad
@ Erick Ernst Hi Eric, hopefully you're still taking questions. Im doing something Silly. I was given an HP 2000-2b19WM for free and it came with a crap AMD E300 that was soldered to the motherboard. Original part number was 6050A2498701. I bought a new Intel motherboard with a discreet graphics card and HM75 Express Chipset with part number 6050A2493101 and a much beefier cooling fan and Heat sink part number 685087-001 which fits the HP2000, HP 1000, HP 250 G1, and the HP 450 (not the G0). Upon research for the new motherboard part number, I can confirm that a I5 3230M will work, which I have bought for a cool $10. However many sources say I can actually go up to an I7-3632QM which I would prefer. Since the new motherboard can supposedly have an upgrade to an I7-3632QM as well, I was wondering if you think Its possible to put the i7-3840QM in there? Everything seems to be right and lining up.. G2 socket, HM75 Express Chipset, socket types SEEM to be supported from what people have experimented with on forums? I can get a Bios update to windows 10 off HP's website I believe or ill just try and update it from device manager. What do you think? I really want to push this thing to its limit, granted this is all unconfirmed and theoretical territory. Cooling might be an issue but that's okay ill just mod the case and stick it on a laptop cooling pad. Plus this is just going to be a testing rig/burner laptop. Or ill play some old games on it. Let me know what you think, that would be awesome. Thanks! Edit 1: upon looking at the motherboard of you HP Pavillion g6, its pretty dang similar to mine new motherboard too, so Im thinking this is very possible! Edit 2: Intel's own website is stating compatibility for the HM75 chipset for both the i7-3632QM and the I7-3840QM!
How much watts power adapter do you use?
19.5v at 3.33A. 65w charger. I believe it is the factory HP charger that came with the laptop.
I have a Lenovo g400 im planning upgrading it i7 3720qm. It has the hm76 chipset and a 65watts power adapter. Do you think it will run without any issues?
我今天恰好要把i3-2370m升级成i7-2760qm,不知道结果会怎么样。
I believe you will be thrilled with the results. The 2760qm is a quad core as opposed to a dual core. The performance will be much higher. If you haven't already, I'd recommend upgrading your storage from a hard disk drive to a solid state drive. Startup times will be under 20 seconds and programs will open much more quickly. It will add life to your old laptop! Cheers.
Drop some more dirt on top of the engine before starting on a major project like this.
Great video thanks
Noticed you greased the tips of the slider pins.the pins will not tightn due to grease at the end
The shape of the pins allows a gap for the grease to push out from the bottom of the hole. I've never had a problem hydrolocking a brake caliper pin. I'd rather have the entire pin coated in grease and not allow any corrosion or rust. I agree that blind holes can crack castings when attempting to torque fasteners such as head bolts. This is not one of those cases.
Thank you sir! Stuff my dad shoulda been around to teach me
Not sure why your didn't blow all the Trash off the intake Not hard to do Good luck
Hi, I have a 1988 k5 blazer and I just installed this intake manifold on my stock 350 small block. The issue I am having is hooking the return fuel line back up to the TBI, due to the new location of the EGR valve. Did you have any issues with this?
I have not had an issue with that. Maybe try pulling off the egr valve and installing the fuel return line first. Or maybe install the fuel return line before the fuel feed line. I'm presently running an Edelbrock 2604 carbureted performer air-gap intake manifold.
You can see them side by side at about 5:37. Good luck with it.
I remember watching that video and it got me to redo mine lol.. Custom exhaust aint fun to build but its worth it! Cant wait to see more content on your truck!
No water drain?
Stop making excuses
your camera is to low
Sorry. Shitty cameraman. He's fired.
Hello Erick, sorry for the inconvenience, but I wanted to ask what you think about the possibility of improving the processor of my notebook, Samsung rc420s02, it is equipped with a sand bridge processor, HM65, i5 2410m, max tdp 35, with a 988B rPGA socket. Intel HD3000 graphics, and a dedicated Nvidia GT520M graphics card. Based on your experience and compared to your notebook, do you think I can upgrade to a processor like the i7 3840qm or the i7 3940xm? I would really appreciate it.
You said you have a hm65 chipset. That is your limiting factor. That allows only sandy bridge 2000 series chips. An ivy bridge processor will not boot in an hm65 system. The fastest processor you can use is a 2960xm. I think that anything with a quad core will do great. I believe there is a 2630qm quad core that would work well. I believe that is the lowest sku quad core. Anything with quad cores is leaps and bounds above a dual core. I don't notice a difference between the 3840qm and the 3940xm. The only difference I've noticed between the 2920xm and the 3840qm was the cpu temp under load. My 2920xm would regularly would see 100⁰C while rendering videos. I've installed a few sandy bridge quad cores in laptops for friends and parents and my wife. They all feel snappy and responsive after the upgrade.. And you can pick up old laptops for very cheap. I haven't benchmarked many of them, side by side, but for daily tasks, any quad core will work very well compared to a dual core. I also recommend a sata ssd storage drive. Unfortunately, an ivy bridge cpu will not work, but I recommend a 2630qm or any quad core sandy bridge chip that you can find cheap. Good luck breathing new life into your old laptop. Comment here again if you need anything else.
Sounds like junk
Just here as a sound example for someone who may want to do this to their truck. I'm glad I installed headers and built a whole exhaust system for it.
Hey did you ever shine a flashlight down inside to see what the condition of that tank was? Ive took the valves out of 70 y/o 20lb/40lb tanks and they almost looked new at the least the ones I checked.. Thanks for the video I just purchased me a 125 gallon upright last night for $100 where i live that is cheap everyone around here snatches those things up to make fire pits and sell them $500 up and you get 2 pits from each tank..
utter shite
I just purchased this kit !!
What are you using to fuel your engine? I really like the sniper efi to ensure that I don't lean out and can keep timing where I want it under boost.
@EricErnst I haven't installed it yet right now I just have a standard 4150 holley.but plan on upgrading to a sniper for the blow through application
@@kdog-xc6ib it can absolutely be done on a standard 4150 carb. That's what it was designed for. I do like the added safety of the sniper. I went sniper before the supercharger. Just to make sure I had the kinks worked out before I went with boost.
@EricErnst yea I might just run it with the carb for now see how it does unless I decide to bite the bullet and buy the holley sniper cause this kit was expensive enough
@@kdog-xc6ib I understand completely. I was running sniper for about a year before I bit the bullet and bought this kit. It was a touch over $3k when I bought mine in February of 2020. It COMPLETELY changed the attitude of the truck. It was a pretty easy install. It was quick before (meh, 405hp estimated at the crank) but this really unleashed the power. What kind of combo are you running it on? Heads/cam/headers? I have a baby roller cam. 202⁰/212⁰@.050". It starts strong and violently comes to life the higher I rev it. I run 93 octane fuel so it's pretty expensive compared to a little car but it's a blast to drive.
Does the EGR bolts right in
Yes. This manifold retains all of the stock mounting locations. It is a quarter inch taller than the stock manifold but everything bolts up the same. Even the vacuum port for the power brakes is in the factory location. On the performer air-gap carbureted manifold #3604, I had to modify the brake vacuum line for it to fit into a different location.
Is your trans slipping in-between 1st and 2nd? It seems to hang there for a minute before changing gears.
Yes. A few months after this video was filmed, 2nd gear went out. The truck currently has a 4L80E in place of the stock th400 trans.
If you get roller rockers, get adjustable guide plates. My motor came with roller rockers installed but not all the tips were lined up, some as bad as halfway on the stem. They were on fixed guide plates that couldn't be adjusted independently.
These engines use self-aligning rocker arms from the factory. No guideplates. I used the same style on the aftermarket Trick Flow heads that I installed on this engine about a year later.
Do you still have that intake manifold?
Which one? The stock one? The Edelbrock tbi 3704 manifold or the carbureted Edelbrock 2604? Yes to all 3. The carb intake is currently on the truck but I may go another route in the next iteration of the build. The stock tbi manifold and Edelbrock tbi intake are both sitting in my shed.
I just found this video on UA-cam, and I have a 92 s10, and the look of your truck is kinda what I have in mind for mine. I'm ol' school in a lot of things that I do. I want to run a set of 39.5 × 18 super swamper boggers on the back, and a set of skinny street tires on the front. 3" spindle lift for the front and 3" body lift for the truck so I don't have to cut to much of the body for those tires. Just like a 70's gasser. My question is are you running the stock axel and rear end, or did you swap to a beefer axel. What ring and pinion are you running and do you have the 4.3 V6 or did you V8 swap??
Hey man, I dig this look too. The truck has a homemade 2.5" body lift and 3" spindle lift up front. Stock rear suspension. It's got 4.10 gears with a lunchbox locker in the 7 5" 10 bolt. I'm looking to upgrade to 4.56 gears because it's a little tall. I originally regeared for 33x12.50s in the rear and 4.10s were perfect. These 38.5s require a 4.88 or 5 .13s to keep the original cruise rpms.. not to mention the heavier weight of the bigger meat. I actually did add some old school snubber style traction bars to combat wheelhop on burnouts. I have a built 2.8L v6 in the truck. The motor came out of my 83 S15 so it's a carbureted version, not the tbi version. Not that there's a huge difference anyway. I have ported big valve heads, edelbrock intake, holley 4 bbl carb, roller tip rocker arms, headers, an edelbrock cam. 253⁰/263⁰ advertised, I believe. I figure it's making about 200hp. I wanted to keep the weight down so the front end doesn't sink in mud. It's what I could afford when I was growing up so it's kinda evolved into this caricature of a truck. With a 3" body lift, you'll need to trim the bedsides a lot. I cut all the way up to the joint of the inner wheelwells of the bed. I think I hammered the folded seam flat to avoid hitting the tires at full compression. I don't make a lot of power but I haven't had any issues with the rear axle. I have a differential girdle as a diff cover. I don't know how much it helps, but I bought it back in like 2003 so I've kept it. It's like 1" thick aluminum and has feet that press into the center of the carrier bearing caps on either side of the differential. The truck isn't a speed demon with the tall tires and small motor, but it slings mud off road and I dig the look. It's a pretty cool old truck. I also like the 5 speed manual transmission. Feel free to ask any more questions.
@@EricErnst that 92 of mine has an automatic transmission. I haven't spent a lot of time with it just yet due to work and things, I think it's got the 4l60E I believe. I could be mistaken though. It should have overdrive either way. I would like to run 5.13s or mabe a little bigger, because of the overdrive, but I don't think they will fit in a 10 bolt. I'm going to have to swap to a 12 bolt 3/4 tone and shortened it up to fit, if the gear set will fit in the 12 bolt. I got to check on that. In my opinion, a 1 ton is too much axel for a S10, but will go that route if 5.13s and Eaton locker won't fit. I also am going to put a set of chrome 70's style traction bars under the leaf springs. Don't know if people will even see them being the boggers so big, but they'll be on there. That's cool that you did that, I Dig It! I don't want to spend a bunch of money building the 4.3L that's in it, but I am going to do some TBI mods, cold air intake and a 2.5" exhaust system with headers and duel origional 40 series flowmasters, just like what the fox body stangs had back in the late 80's early 90's that had that legendary sound they were famous for, and some long 22" tips out the back. That 4.3L from the factory listed at 160hp, I figure I can get 200hp if not, pretty close out of that. Coupled to a 2200 stall and a shift kit for the tranny, that should make for a pretty fun ride! I have searched the internet for a while to find someone else out there that has the same ideas that I have, your video is the only one I found, I was starting to think I was the only one lol!!! You haven't had a problems yet out of your 5 speed tranny running those big meats and higher gears?? Also, I haven't done a bunch of checking yet on the internet, I know they make a 3" spindle lift for the front, I wonder if there is a taller lift for the front. Mabe 2" taller springs? Or mabe a 6" combo for the front end. I would like to go around 6" because of the skinny street tires. Trying to get as close to level as possible. You have Any suggestions, I would definitely appreciate it!!!
Awww look at the little one at the end🥹 very nice and detailed video btw. I’m new at DIY, but have assisted in changing brake pads before. This video will help me with changing my own for the first time
Great video. I googled “can I build a compressor with a 250lb propane tank?” and it brought me here. What did you do about the propane smell?
The smell eventually went away. The oil had seeped deep into the metal and couldn't be removed by simply airing it out.
Wrong thermostat gasket. Rollers without the spider?
It's a reusable thermostat gasket. Mr gasket brand. Silicone seal around the perimeter of an aluminum block. That way I can pull the thermostat housing whenever I want and not need to worry about having a paper gasket or rtv. 87-95 truck v8s were flat tappet cams. The blocks were roller block castings. Most had the 3 bosses drilled and tapped for the spider but not all.
@EricErnst That thermostat doesn't use the flat type thermostat gasket. It uses a o ring type. And you only have roller rockers. If you had roller lifters that spider better be on those factory drilled out bosses
@@FredColberg-jk5yp what the hell are you talking about? Roller rockers can be run with a flat tappet cam. The motor wouldn't last 10 minutes with roller lifters and no spider.
@EricErnst you're running around in circles. Yes you can use roller rockers without a spider but you cannot run roller lifters without one! Period. I realize that you have flat tappets in there now with roller rockers. Way you have it it doesn't need the spider. As for thermostat gasket those manifolds are machined for the newer style gasket the runs around the outer lip of thermo and sits in the machine area in which it sits.
@@FredColberg-jk5yp I'm not running roller lifters. Stock 87-95 truck cam is flat tappet. I later installed a roller cam, but this one is a stock flat tappet cam with flat tappet lifters. You're the one running in circles.
i have a dell latitude e5420 with g2 and hm65. i now using i7 2620m but i really want to try i3 3110m due to it have hd4000 with dx11. do u think it will work?
Price on that set up
Heads were $675 each. Cam was $280. Lifters, pushrods, cam plate, spider, and lifter retainers were $200. Headers were a steal at $80. Roller rockers were $200. Intake was $350. Fuel pump was $125. Hei distributor was $100. Sniper setup was $1000 with $50 off from Summit. I swapped to holley hyperspark distributor and cd ignition box and coil. That setup was $550 total. $250; $250; and $50, respectively. Exhaust was 3" straight pipe through the stock tailpipe. Air cleaner was like $40 when I bought it. 14x3 K&N filter was $50. It's a pretty open question. I tried to answer it to the best of my ability.
Not trying to be a sassy 😂 iv now done both on my 98 pulled the bed and dropped the tank. I’m my opinion the straps are way easier if your a lone wolf sorta guy. Straps are cheap but usually if u unbolt them from the frame u shouldn’t have issues. Your impact sure dose make those bolts look a lot easier to come out haha but Each their own. GOOD WORK!!!
I've had issue with straps disintegrating so I prefer to tilt the bed. I removed the bed so I could film the process of changing the fuel pump easier. If you only fully remove the driver's side, and loosen the passenger's side bed bolts, you can tilt the bed and work underneath easier. As you said, to each their own. I also tend to need to work on the fuel pump whenever my fuel tank is full. An extra couple hundred pounds of unstable weight sloshing around makes things a little more difficult.
I have a question on my manifold the temp sensor does not fit the hole what am I doing wrong
You'll either need to get an adapter or a different sensor.
It sad cause it’s the one that came in the box from jegs
@@rjsrailroad6166 the adaptors or the sensor? What manifold did you use? This edelbrock tbi one? My edelbrock manifold didn't need an adapter.
@rjsrqilroad6166 what did you end up doing?.. I’m having the same problem ..
@@EricErnst do you have the part number for the sensor you used? Or know where to get the same one you got .. mine won’t fit either.. the hole is kinda big
what intake manifold? guessing it won’t bolt up to the stock tbi one.
The intake manifold is an Edelbrock 2604 performer air-gap 4bbl carbureted intake manifold. It's drilled to fit the stock tbi heads. My heads are aftermarket aluminum drilled in the 87-95 tbi bolt pattern, so a tbi manifold will fit. The center 4 bolts are at a 72⁰ angle instead of the traditional 90⁰ on the pre-86 manifolds.. and the 8 outside corner bolts of the 87-95 pattern are the same as the pre-86.
I’d like to message you for information wanting to swap from tbi to efi
What would you like to know?
@@EricErnst just want to know what’s needed right now it’s got a Holley tbi edebrock manifold and a 383 stroker kit I can’t get a chip burned anywhere I just want to know what manifold to run and what holley to use and other than a vortec fuel pump what else would I need
@@stevenlopez6645 are you running stock heads? That will dictate the intake manifold that you'll need. 87-95 bolt pattern is a little different than pre-86. It's a stroker, so you're running 10% more cubes. How big of a cam are you running? If you're making decent power, a 255lph vortec fuel pump won't keep up. A 340lph pump comes with the sniper master kit. I'm running a 340lph in-tank pump. The pump said 82-02 Camaro, but it fit my 90 k2500 sending unit just fine. You'll need an intake manifold with a square bore 4150 mounting flange. Just a regular 4 barrel holley carb. Wiring is relatively easy. You can get an hei distributor and run mechanical timing or get a hyperspark distributor and let the sniper control it. I like the sniper controlling timing. If you want to mess with your tbi, I am actually looking at 350hp at the flywheel through my stock tbi unit (with 2.5x the stock fuel pressure) and a modified computer from dynamicEFI.com. The computer was $460 and I can tune it with my laptop. I can tune with a wideband O2 sensor. I've got a set of aluminum heads and a roller cam that I'm going to install. The setup isn't exactly intuitive, but it works. You need to do a LOT of reading. The tuning is done with tunerpro, free software. It reminds me a lot of hptuners.. but with stripped down features. Mine is in a 1992 c1500, after all. The processor was something like 15hz. Ultimately, it's limited on fuel and the power that it can support, but it's a cool concept to keep the tbi. I paid way too much to have only 350hp out of a 350. But it's a quirky oddball combo that I like. The sniper is completely different. Very intuitive. Easy to set up. And supports much more power.
Heads are stock resurfaced right now it’s has the tbi performer intake I bought the engine second hand so don’t know exactly what cam it has I would say it’s mild not to aggressive then again it’s on a stock ecu so it runs ok not the best and ok I didn’t know the pump came in the kit and ideally I’d like the sniper to control the timing I feel like it’d be easier I
@@stevenlopez6645 I recommend getting the bare kit rather than the master kit. The master kit comes with new rubber fuel lines and an inline pump that mounts on the framerail. These trucks came with efi, so we can run a higher pressure fuel pump in the stock sending unit inside the tank. It will save a few hundred bucks. . Money that can be spent on a holley hyperspark distributor. I recommend using their distributor because it plugs right into the sniper harness and it includes a tool to set the timing advance at 50⁰ btdc. The stock pointer only goes to maybe 12⁰. You don't need to mess with measuring the diameter of your harmonic balancer and calculating the distance between degree ticks and building a small tape to stick into the balancer. It's all in the tool and you only need to check the timing when you get the engine running. I think that makes it easily worth the cost of a hyperspark over another aftermarket distributor. If the heads are stock, you can run an Edelbrock 2104 performer or 2604 performer air-gap manifold. There isn't much of a difference in performance between them. Although, in a manifold shootout, the performer air-gap made the most torque at 3,000rpms. More than even the hallowed performer rpm air-gap. I ordered my set of trick flow heads to be drilled for the 87-95 bolt pattern. I'm running a 2604 air-gap. But last time I looked, it was over $400. There are certainly other brands that you can choose. Just make sure that it's drilled for a square bore 4150 flange and the intake bolt pattern is 87-95. There is a much better selection in the pre-86 and 96-up vortec bolt patterns. You can modify the center bolt holes a little to fit, but that's up to you. The center 4 bolt holes are drilled at a 72⁰ angle rather than 90⁰ like the 86-older manifolds. The tbi has a big cube for a plenum that necessitated the change. The center 4 bolts are 18⁰ more vertical so mechanics can reach the bolts more easily. There may be some single-plane intake manifolds, but they are tuned for higher rpms. I'd recommend a dual plane for street driving. A dual plane will make more power than a single plane until about 4500-6000rpms. Your truck will likely never spend time above that, so a dual plane is the only logical choice. The stock cylinder heads are limited on flow and won't make a ton of power. A stock 255lph vortec replacement fuel pump will be able to support anything that the stock cylinder heads can produce. The stock heads flow something like 180cfm on the intake. That means you'll have to push them and have all of the other supporting mods to make a peak of 360hp. Cam, intake, headers, exhaust. With a stock cam, the peak horsepower number will be largely unchanged.. while torque will increase. The peak horsepower rpm will drop by about 10⁰ because the engine is larger and ingesting more air at the same rpm. The top end is tuned for a certain amount of air. That means the peak hp rpm will drop. Extra low end torque is not necessarily a bad thing. Everyone loves a torque monster with loads of torque off-idle. In a naturally aspirated fuel injected combination, the 255lph should be good for 650hp. I'm running a 340lph pump in a higher pressure boosted application so I'm only good enough for about 600hp. I had to limit my rpms because I was out of injector/pump. Luckily, I can control my transmission with my phone so I lowered the shift points and I'm good to go with 'only' 600ish hp.
Did the shift linkage bolt right up?
No. I had to slightly modify it. I cut and re-welded the arm a little. I think it needed twisted very slightly to go into first gear. The arm that slips into the frame and hooks to the linkage arm coming from the shifter on the column. 96-up trucks used a shift cable. That might be a no-weld solution.
@@EricErnst good stuff man , thanks for reply. I’m going to try and modify the linkage as well. If that fails I’m probably going with a floor mounts shifter.
hi there,my z28 78 Camaro need rocker arm replacement, i looked online for a bolt one upgrade, is these roller rocker are direct replacement or need to modify anything to install them, my engine is still stock in every point is this will effect my engine or upgrade it , what you think?
Those aren't necessarily this same style. If everything is truly stock, you'll have standard body, non self-aligning rockers. Pull a valvecover and check.. if you have pushrod guideplates, you don't need self-aligning. If you have perimeter bolt valvecovers, you don't need narrow-body. I have centerbolt with no guideplates.. so I'm using narrow self-aligning. I hope that makes sense. As far as power goes, it will probably add a few hp. The roller bearings will help more at higher rpm.. and the higher lift will help take advantage of better cylinder head flow. You have smog era head that aren't known for great flow. 1.6s will give you about 6% more valve lift than stock. I've read magazine articles that claim 25+ hp. But they had good heads and big cams. On a stock small block, I'd expect 8-13hp with 1.6 roller rockers. I'm running a set of scorpion 1.7 roller rockers on my 92 c1500. They made a difference but I haven't quantified it yet. That's 13% more valve lift than 1.5s.
amzn.to/3Iy2IJh Here's an Amazon link to some 1.6s. I forgot to mention that stock will also use 3/8" rocker studs.
Look like it was still running hot.
How did you know which processor upgrade would work? I want to upgrade my t570 i7600u to the highest I can go.
Unfortunately, if you have a processor that ends in U, the chip is soldered to the motherboard. I don't believe you can upgrade that cpu. I was lucky in a couple of different ways. First, that i had a 2370M processor.. one that I could swap cpus in and out of the socket with ease. Secondly, I had a motherboard and chipset that would accept either my 2000 series cpu or a newer 3000 series cpu. I was also lucky that every chip that I tried worked. I've heard some say that certain laptop brands have a "white list" of acceptable processors. Only chips on the list will boot. First, I tried an i7 2640m. It was still a dual core, but with higher clock speeds than my i3. Then I tried an i7 2920xm. Then I tried a 3840qm and finally, I settled on the fastest chip available, a 3940xm.
Wheres the driving video
Thx for the interesting video. I'm getting set up to change the pump on my '94 with 350, all stock truck. I bought a Delphi on Rockauto. But with the quality of even new parts these days becoming hit or miss. I think I'll just carry the pump around with the right stuff to change it out on the spot. I think the original factory pump is still in the tank (I'm 2nd owner). This is an Arizona desert truck, so the only rust is just harmless surface rust. I'm figuring out everything i need to carry in my truck so any time, anywhere I can do the bed-tilt method with no help and change it out. It has 145k miles on it may be a while before it shats itself!
When you do change the pump, I'd recommend splicing a ground wire into the harness. Run the original ground onto the frame, but also run that wire directly back to the battery. I think a big problem with the fuel pumps os that they don't gave a good enough ground and they burn up. Good luck with your old ride.
@@EricErnst I like that idea a lot. Bad ground causes lots of problems on cars. And fuel pump ground is critical. I imagine if the ground gets degraded, but still enough ground to let the pump run, maybe the high resistance of the bad ground causes the motor to not get enough current it needs and makes it struggle and fail early? Or maybe the pump burns up because it still tries to draw the power it needs, and the high resistance ground makes it draw excessive current to keep getting the needed power, and that burns up the little motor? Thx for the idea, I'll incorporate that. I'll also re-make the exisiting ground to make it solid.
So 8 bolts total for a long box ?
Yes. And the hitch most likely needs to be removed to access the rear bolts. And the 3 screws for the fuel filler neck. And unplug the taillight harness at the rear.
firmer shifts would have really bumpped this up any headers
Yeah. I'm running flowtech afterburner headers. 49156-1FLT. Check the video description. The th400 trans broke 2nd gear within a year after this video. It now has a 4L80E. Overdrive and a lockup converter clutch are major quality-of-life improvements!
@@EricErnst I have a tb350 with Street and strip shift kits. It will loose traction it hits second so hard lol did your how much 0-60 did it increase? Probably a second or 2 ?
@@zachnickles7655 I'd done some other motor upgrades in the meantime so it wasn't an apple to apple comparison. I'm also very traction limited. I need to start doing 10-70 or 20-80. The truck currently has different cylinder heads, cam and valvetrain, intake manifold, exhaust, fuel injection system, and boost than it had in this video. Over triple the flywheel horsepower of the stock rating. If I had traction, I could do 0-60 in well under half the time now.. according to the calculator I've used.
@@EricErnst go to a 245 that’s 9.6 inches wide. Traction is mostly in the tires. I’m assuming you still use your truck as a truck. If not traction bars and a softer leaf will help it roll the weight to the rear tires
@@zachnickles7655 it's an 8 lug k2500. It has 4.10 gears in both diffs. It's got a g80 in the rear. It has traction bars on the stock leaf springs. It came factory with 245/75R16s. I'm looking at a new set of 285/75R16s. . Although I've got a set of 33x14-16 mud tires. They're super swamper boggers so a skinnier tire would have better on-road traction.
need that exhaust setup asap, just got my hands on a 92’
In this video, it was Flowtech afterburner headers with a Flowtech 2½" to 3" y pipe. Cat delete. Muffler delete. Stock single 3" tailpipe. So it's basically open headers with a 3" tailpipe. I've since built a 3"-into-4" y-pipe and run it with 4" single exhaust system for a 6.5L TD.
Here is how I built this exhaust system. ua-cam.com/video/a4brqi3Oas8/v-deo.html
Here is me building my single 4" system. ua-cam.com/video/8sXAuQEbDCc/v-deo.html
I have i5-2450m with 35tdp can i maximum upgrade with i7-2960xm?
It should work but sometimes the bios doesn't allow for certain cpus. I'm currently running an i7 3940xm in this very laptop. My 2960xm seemed to get pretty warm when rendering videos. Like up to 105⁰C. If your chipset allows it, I'd go for the newer 3000 series chips. If you have an hm65 chipset, you're stuck with the sandy bridge 2000 series and the ivy bridge 3000 will not work.
I have 1990 Chevrolet 454 2wd if was tbi now is carb can I install 4l80 transmission
You'll need a computer and the applicable sensors to control it. Or you can get an aftermarket trans controller like I did. I love my aftermarket trans controller. I can completely change the attitude of my truck. I can change the shift points at wide open throttle. I can add paddle shifters. I can add manual control of the lockup torque converter clutch. Or change tire size to calibrate the speedometer. It's all much better than stock. You'll need a throttle position sensor regardless. Holley makes one that fits the choke linkage on their 4bbl carbs. Or there is a remote mount tps sensor that will add a sensor hooked up to the throttle linkage. I chose a tci remote tps sensor for my holleysniper setup. It didn't like it when i tried to share a tpd signal with the efi and trans controller. The remote tps works well.
Things a dog
For a 5800lb, 30 year old 190hp farm truck, it's fine. In this first round of modifications, I just wanted to get better gas mileage without messing with the stock efi. It wound up making the engine pretty lean under wide open throttle .. without touching the internals.. stock long block, cam and heads. The stock heads are the worst-flowing ever produced by GM. The cam is very short duration and has only .385"/.402" lift. Peak torque and hp rpms are 2400/4000, respectively. 6 months after this intake install, I installed an RV roller cam and aftermarket aluminum heads. The heads feature the smallest intake runners available. 175cc. That's smaller than the stock tbi swirl port heads. The combustion chambers are 56cc, smaller than the 64cc chambers of the tbi heads. But the aftermarket heads flow 50-60% more. The new cam is very small by aftermarket standards, but its 202⁰/212⁰@.050" number is within a degree of a stock 400hp/400lb-ft LS2 engine. The 550"/.546" is about .025" more lift than the stock LS2. Along with that, my new heads flow more than LS2 heads. Better head flow and more valve lift than the 400hp LS2. Comp cams estimated 406hp@5500 and 463lb/ft@3500. That's 163lb/ft and 216hp over stock. Since then, I've added a centrifugal supercharger capable of supporting 775hp. I'm estimating 625ish hp. At 9.5psi of boost, I can assure you, it is no longer a dog. It roasts tires on command. God bless. A little constructive criticism goes a long way.
Hey where did you get that center dash piece with the cubby storage pocket at 35:16 ?
I have the standard radio and not the cassette player with equalizer. That is thr factory installed pocket that goes in place of the tape player/equalizer. That's also where aftermarket radios are often installed. You can find them on ebay for about $40. 88-94 chevy truck center dash cubby bezel.
@@EricErnst Great, thanks for the info. 👍🏻
So basically all I have to do to make a youtube video on a Chevy intake is ramble on pointlessly about random things, not blow off my intake prior to removal so all the dirt goes directly into my engine, grunt continuously as if I haven't moved in a decade and think that the aesthetics of my engine is what gives it power?
That's the beauty of the internet. Thanks for the comment. The algorithm has noted it.
I wish my rotor was that simple to take off
Agreed. These are simple. My 1990 Silverado K2500 8 lug (and my matching 1993) have the rotors mounted inboard of the axle flange. All 8 wheel studs are pressed through them. It's easier to pull the cv axle and hub bearing. I did a rear disc brake conversion on my 90. I have to drain and pull the differential cover, pull the c clips, and then pull the axleshafts to access the rotors. And even then the wheel studs need to be removed. It's a real pain in the ass compared to 2 simple caliper bracket bolts! Good luck with your brakes!