When rust attacks metal, it also travels inward, away from the surface. Sadly Kurust can only deal with the surface rust. It's the rust you don't see that gets you in the end, It will take a bit longer but that panel WILL rust through sometime in the future. Top tip: When applying underseal, always start with the areas furthest from reach and work toward yourself, that way you will avoid rubbing your arm against an already painted surface. Great video by the way!
I feel your pain! I'm currently taking off the front wings on my t4 caravelle and sorting all the wheel arch rust out. Some parts are hard to reach underneath around the exhaust area. Oh and I'm doing mine on the side of the road with London double deckers going past every 5 mins! Things we have to do hey!
I always used Kurust & still do on small items (nuts/bolts) but found Phosphoric acid is much more effective on the rust and a lot cheaper. Kurust 250ml = £8 to £12 Phosphoric acid = £20 to £25 for 5 Litres !
I've got both the kurust and underseal paint, ready to do a job I had planned. I'm so glad that I watched your video, as I was about to just paint the underbody with underseal only, after removing what rust I could (and using the kurust for the few spots on the wheel arches before spray painting). Looks like I'll need more kirust!
You are doing a fine job using recommended rust treatment and underseal to help keep the rust at bay - believe it ought to make a big difference ( have used kurust and find it is effective ) Used a wire brush and heat gun to take the floorpan on my classic beetle applying dinitrol products , paint is akin to hammerite paint & my mechanic friend suggested applying waxoyl over .... Well done and keep up the good work , the joys of motor vehicle maintenance 😎
Another great video , It's good to see someone who isn't a professional having a very good go at these jobs. I will need to do these jobs in the next year and paying to get it done at a body shop is expensive, videos like this helps a lot. You are more skilful than me but it helps a lot to see how these things are done . I liked the rear wheel arches video you did , it takes I lot of the fear away seeing how the bodywork comes apart.
Thanks for sharing, going to start the wire brushing and de rusting on my T4 this wknd. She was under sealed 3 years ago with a brand nee piece of metal flooring from front to back so hopefully not as much work as yours but you just never know. My baby was also born 97 🚎🥰
@@JoelsStuff thanks just finIshed the bulk of mine today - got away lightly and I’m very small plus my dad has a pit on the driveway so this meant I could practically stand to do it being a little polly pocket 😂 just need to get the wheels off now to do behind and get the arches re painted and should be good for a bit, may try and do this annually to keep it low maintenance. I have one weld spot to do under sliding door so left that bit as my new door in for spraying at the mo. Always something but she’s my baby 🚎❤️
Great video man really useful, been looking for a decent video about this sort of stuff. I just got an old T2 and it needs some love. I'll probably have to sandblast some of it to get it to an treatable surface but this is a great start. Thanks!
Thanks for this video mate. I picked up an 18 year old celica recently and on the recent MOT, it had an advisory on for slight rust on the underbody. I recently changed the oil on it and can see that it is indeed the case. This video (and some of the comments from others here) will go a long way in helping me treat it. Would it potentially be worth priming the sanded surfaces in the same way you'd do bodywork prior to painting on the treatment?
Thanks for the feedback! It’s hard to say what the best approach is - everyone seems to have a different opinion. I did exactly what you are suggesting on some of the later sections after making this video. I used hammerite direct to rust paint after the kurust but before the underseal. As long as it is protected either way is fine. Good luck!
Cheers for making this video! I've been advised that I need to do the underside of my 2CV before the end of the year. Luckily a lot smaller than yours but not looking forward to doing it!
I've done bits of underneath my car and when knocking off some of the underseal and chunks of rust i found plenty of salt deposits. So far no rust hasn't come back yet.
Thank you. There is nothing wrong with doing that, but the Kurust will add a little more protection. It all depends on how much you want to put into it. Good luck!
Most of what you picked at with the screwdriver at the back there was oil spray coating that they use when your car or van is new salt gets under it and takes off a thin layer off paint with it and it looks like really bad rust but in the end it’s not sometimes it will be rust but majority of the time it’s not thick sheets and is still sold just treat it with a good rust converter maybe 2 coats then assure it’s 100% from any water damp anything then undersealed it never use rubberized coatings even if there oil based they just rot cars what you used is perfect
So far so good, but it’s only been one year so I don’t know how long it will stay that way. I’m planning on checking it every year, and if it gets flaky I will redo it or weld in some new metal. Sadly I am not very experienced with this. Good luck!
@@JoelsStuff really, as long as it holds for a year so that I can prepare myself to do it again, or do more radical repairs, that is fine! Glad yours is holding so far.
For 20+ years this is nothing in the way of rust, I work with a lot of gritter trucks and we see a lot worse and they still go fine, I know there is a substantial difference between a car and truck but same principle applies, but I like seeing waxoyl under a vehicle, usually means it's been looked after
I ended up paying a welder to fix the worst areas, and underselling the entire rest of it. So far it is looking good but only time will tell. This was only 6 months ago!
Why do I like these 'under car rust treating vids'? Anyway good effort mate. I have learnt over the years that 90% of the job is easy access, I have tried every method from ramps to high lift jack and by far the best is a car tilter. Get the van over as far and as safely as poss, diy shot blaster and high pressure washer . Kill the rust like u did, Red oxide primer, top coat( anything will do), then the underseal. My 'water soluble' citroen c15 van may look a bit comical, but find one as rust free as mine! Look up car tilters on youtube especially the homemade russian ones brilliant and hilarious!
I hate to say this but once the rust is in the metal it also travels inwards away from the surface of the metal. Just covering over already rusty metal is only "Buying" the car some extra time. I bought a cheap 2nd hand car and the car had rust all over the underside of the car including in the sub-frame... But I loved the car and did not want to part with it... So I sanded down as much of the rust as I could then covered the whole of the underside of the car including all 4 wheel arches with a generous amount of Waxoyl ... The rust just came back through... But it bought the car an extra 18 Months that it would not have got if I had not done this. Once the rust is in the metal...It spreads like cancer. It is always best if you can remove the rusty panel and weld a new panel in such as new sills etc. Covering already rusty metal with black sh1t only buys the car some extra time.
I spent three days last year sand blasting undercoating, rust preventing and top coat for protection. I did a good job on it and it's still pretty good but one year later and you can see the rust coming through in to many places. It's a constant thing with the T4. if you don't have the time, tools or abilities and I don't mean that in a bad way but be honest with yourself. If you don't then buy a T5 or a transit or hyundai iload. The T4 is a constant maintenance machine or preemptive maintenance machine. If you can't do it yourself you will save thousands by buying a newer van if that's what you want. You will strip the wheel arches and prime,paint,seal the paint in and thinkmits great and then in 6mths you have to do it again. Is what it is.
When rust attacks metal, it also travels inward, away from the surface. Sadly Kurust can only deal with the surface rust.
It's the rust you don't see that gets you in the end, It will take a bit longer but that panel WILL rust through sometime in the future.
Top tip: When applying underseal, always start with the areas furthest from reach and work toward yourself, that way you will avoid rubbing your arm against an already painted surface.
Great video by the way!
Thanks for the feedback!
I feel your pain! I'm currently taking off the front wings on my t4 caravelle and sorting all the wheel arch rust out. Some parts are hard to reach underneath around the exhaust area. Oh and I'm doing mine on the side of the road with London double deckers going past every 5 mins! Things we have to do hey!
Sounds like a nightmare! Best of luck
I always used Kurust & still do on small items (nuts/bolts) but found Phosphoric acid is much more effective on the rust and a lot cheaper.
Kurust 250ml = £8 to £12
Phosphoric acid = £20 to £25 for 5 Litres !
I've got both the kurust and underseal paint, ready to do a job I had planned. I'm so glad that I watched your video, as I was about to just paint the underbody with underseal only, after removing what rust I could (and using the kurust for the few spots on the wheel arches before spray painting). Looks like I'll need more kirust!
I’ve got through a few bottles now. Great stuff!
You are doing a fine job using recommended rust treatment and underseal to help keep the rust at bay - believe it ought to make a big difference ( have used kurust and find it is effective )
Used a wire brush and heat gun to take the floorpan on my classic beetle applying dinitrol products , paint is akin to hammerite paint & my mechanic friend suggested applying waxoyl over ....
Well done and keep up the good work , the joys of motor vehicle maintenance 😎
Another great video , It's good to see someone who isn't a professional having a very good go at these jobs. I will need to do these jobs in the next year and paying to get it done at a body shop is expensive, videos like this helps a lot. You are more skilful than me but it helps a lot to see how these things are done .
I liked the rear wheel arches video you did , it takes I lot of the fear away seeing how the bodywork comes apart.
Thanks! If I can do it anyone can 🤓
Nice work Joel, I used a wire brush wheel on my drill which I thought was a lazy way but actually produced some really good results!
Thanks! I’ve been doing the same thing too 👍
How it is holding up?
Any further rust
As your comment is the only one that hasn't been liked or commented on I can only assume it didn't last and the bottom fell out lol
Good work Joel have mine to do ,be definitely jacking it up ,feel neck pains even before I start 😆.
Thanks for sharing, going to start the wire brushing and de rusting on my T4 this wknd. She was under sealed 3 years ago with a brand nee piece of metal flooring from front to back so hopefully not as much work as yours but you just never know. My baby was also born 97 🚎🥰
Sounds like you will have less work to do than I did. Good luck!
@@JoelsStuff thanks just finIshed the bulk of mine today - got away lightly and I’m very small plus my dad has a pit on the driveway so this meant I could practically stand to do it being a little polly pocket 😂 just need to get the wheels off now to do behind and get the arches re painted and should be good for a bit, may try and do this annually to keep it low maintenance. I have one weld spot to do under sliding door so left that bit as my new door in for spraying at the mo. Always something but she’s my baby 🚎❤️
Thank you for this video. I'm in the same steps with my T4 Syncro.
Great video man really useful, been looking for a decent video about this sort of stuff. I just got an old T2 and it needs some love. I'll probably have to sandblast some of it to get it to an treatable surface but this is a great start. Thanks!
Good luck! It’s worth getting into welding too if you can. I’ve now cut out and welded new metal into some of the worst areas
@@JoelsStuff Yeah definitely man, its for sure something that I will have to look into! How did you get on with the welds?
Thanks for this video mate. I picked up an 18 year old celica recently and on the recent MOT, it had an advisory on for slight rust on the underbody. I recently changed the oil on it and can see that it is indeed the case. This video (and some of the comments from others here) will go a long way in helping me treat it. Would it potentially be worth priming the sanded surfaces in the same way you'd do bodywork prior to painting on the treatment?
Thanks for the feedback! It’s hard to say what the best approach is - everyone seems to have a different opinion. I did exactly what you are suggesting on some of the later sections after making this video. I used hammerite direct to rust paint after the kurust but before the underseal. As long as it is protected either way is fine. Good luck!
it's a good idea to spray on a layer of zinc primer on before the underseal as it adds a layer of anti-corrosion to the protection
Cheers for making this video! I've been advised that I need to do the underside of my 2CV before the end of the year. Luckily a lot smaller than yours but not looking forward to doing it!
Good luck!
Just got 02 T4 and found lots of rust under old marine ply at the back... not looking good I am afraid. But good job on your project.
Thanks! I’ve done a lot of welding since this video. Good look!
Got to do the same on my Integra. Bilt hamber is your friend for best rust proof products. Seriously don't bother with anything else 👍🏼
I've done bits of underneath my car and when knocking off some of the underseal and chunks of rust i found plenty of salt deposits. So far no rust hasn't come back yet.
Really really good video
Thank you.
Can I just use a wire brush and then put the under seal straight on?
Thank you. There is nothing wrong with doing that, but the Kurust will add a little more protection. It all depends on how much you want to put into it. Good luck!
COYH
Most of what you picked at with the screwdriver at the back there was oil spray coating that they use when your car or van is new salt gets under it and takes off a thin layer off paint with it and it looks like really bad rust but in the end it’s not sometimes it will be rust but majority of the time it’s not thick sheets and is still sold just treat it with a good rust converter maybe 2 coats then assure it’s 100% from any water damp anything then undersealed it never use rubberized coatings even if there oil based they just rot cars what you used is perfect
I didn’t know that, thanks for the advice!
Is it keeping the rust away so far? My 06 Ducato van has a lot of flaky underseal at the back which I need to scrape off and treat. Cheers
So far so good, but it’s only been one year so I don’t know how long it will stay that way. I’m planning on checking it every year, and if it gets flaky I will redo it or weld in some new metal. Sadly I am not very experienced with this. Good luck!
@@JoelsStuff really, as long as it holds for a year so that I can prepare myself to do it again, or do more radical repairs, that is fine!
Glad yours is holding so far.
FSM!! Welcome brother
Just need to make sure you don't block any grain holes with that stuff I did the sill on the focus and there was 3 L of water trapped inside 🙄
Yipes!
Like the flying spaghetti monster logo
Following boss I'm a stage behind welding atm
thanks for the knowledge share!
Why not spray it on cover and gets into other areas a brush carnt reach
Not a bad idea. Going with spray next time, although it’s still worth taking time to clear the area first
@@JoelsStuff yes clean up area then spray
For 20+ years this is nothing in the way of rust, I work with a lot of gritter trucks and we see a lot worse and they still go fine, I know there is a substantial difference between a car and truck but same principle applies, but I like seeing waxoyl under a vehicle, usually means it's been looked after
I’m doing my best 😊
@@JoelsStuff your best is all you can do👍
didn't want use spray undercoat?
I considered it, but to be honest the actual painting only took a small amount of time anyway. The preparation is what takes ages.
How is it holding up since you coated it?
I ended up paying a welder to fix the worst areas, and underselling the entire rest of it. So far it is looking good but only time will tell. This was only 6 months ago!
Why do I like these 'under car rust treating vids'? Anyway good effort mate. I have learnt over the years that 90% of the job is easy access, I have tried every method from ramps to high lift jack and by far the best is a car tilter. Get the van over as far and as safely as poss, diy shot blaster and high pressure washer . Kill the rust like u did, Red oxide primer, top coat( anything will do), then the underseal. My 'water soluble' citroen c15 van may look a bit comical, but find one as rust free as mine! Look up car tilters on youtube especially the homemade russian ones brilliant and hilarious!
I hate to say this but once the rust is in the metal it also travels inwards away from the surface of the metal.
Just covering over already rusty metal is only "Buying" the car some extra time.
I bought a cheap 2nd hand car and the car had rust all over the underside of the car including in the sub-frame... But I loved the car and did not want to part with it... So I sanded down as much of the rust as I could then covered the whole of the underside of the car including all 4 wheel arches with a generous amount of Waxoyl ... The rust just came back through... But it bought the car an extra 18 Months that it would not have got if I had not done this.
Once the rust is in the metal...It spreads like cancer.
It is always best if you can remove the rusty panel and weld a new panel in such as new sills etc.
Covering already rusty metal with black sh1t only buys the car some extra time.
Agreed!
I spent three days last year sand blasting undercoating, rust preventing and top coat for protection. I did a good job on it and it's still pretty good but one year later and you can see the rust coming through in to many places. It's a constant thing with the T4. if you don't have the time, tools or abilities and I don't mean that in a bad way but be honest with yourself. If you don't then buy a T5 or a transit or hyundai iload. The T4 is a constant maintenance machine or preemptive maintenance machine. If you can't do it yourself you will save thousands by buying a newer van if that's what you want. You will strip the wheel arches and prime,paint,seal the paint in and thinkmits great and then in 6mths you have to do it again. Is what it is.
I have to agree 😒
Cant believe you're recommending a transit over a t4 due to rust... Ford's are the most rusted motors on the road.
Next, get some wax oil INSIDE those chassis members & sills!
Well done . Good video and well explained. very important to get your point across . Fancy doing mine ?? only joking. Thank you. Regards.
If I had the time 😆
It is a lot easier if you use a compressor and shutz gun. Great job though 👍
Thanks, I’ll look into that!
Sandblast
Yup