@@tim9m metal is especially dangerous as the eye absorbs it if it's not dealt with quickly. I've had some horror stories; scrapings taken with a scalpel, corneal graft, stitches pulled out of eyeball. To be avoided at all costs.
Nice to see you did a great prep job. Not scared to get your hands dirty. I am a firm believer in proper prep mostly by hand. More time consuming but the final result is better and longer lasting.
This is an absolutely great, really informative video. Thank you so much! It's exactly what I needed to see for my 4x4 transit. I'm surprised you don't have more views or subscribers. I'll share this around :)
Great video You can heat the wax oil by filling your sink with hot water and leaving the can laying flat in the hot water for 10 mins far safer than the enclosed can in a flame which could explode 🤔👍💪💯
Excellent video! Really helpful info for all van owners not just transits. I'll be trying this out on my old Leyland DAF camper. Bought some waxoyl ages ago but had no idea how to apply it. Just ordered myself a shutz gun and borrowed a mate's compressor. Nice one mate!
Thanks mate! I’ve just changed the name so hopefully it will reach a wider community! Glad you found it useful 😁 Thanks for your comment I really appreciate it 👍🏼
I'm doing a van conversion and this video has been such a huge help. Thank you! As a 22 year old with no prior knowledge who was fairly clueless about van care/rust protection, I'll be following this video step by step.Quick question.
I've been doing similar to this. I use an angle grinder, with a brass wire brush to remove rust from larger areas and a cordless drill and dremel with wire brushes for the smaller areas. I use Dinitrol rust converter. It's expensive, but seems to have a good reputation. Usually 2 coats. Then usually 2 coats of Hammerite, direct to rust, I've not used the oil method inside my sills yet, but as a Skoda owner in Scotland, with rusty sills i'm going do it, and maybe top it up a little every year after i repair the rust.
I’ve heard good things about Dinitrol, will have to try it some time 👍🏼 Nice work, I had enough after one coat of hammerite 😂 will probably do the same again next year to top up. Oil or wax oil in chassis is really good for protecting the metal! Best if it hasn’t started rusting yet but it still slows the rust 👍🏼
Great videos. I'm currently converting a mark 6 transit minibus into a camper. Not really an ideal van thinkng about it but I'm too far in to stop lol trying to get it ready for post lockdown however I'm very reluctant to do stuff myself. My dads done the wood work so far and hes making a lovely job so i dont want to ruin his handy work. Next week im going to start trying to push the build forward. Wish i stripped an old caravan now. Especially the oven, sink ect. Instead i have bought one of these modern combination sink and hob and feel like it was a waste of money even if it does look good. The sink is far too small lol. I also bought a modern oven and when it arrived the door was smashed. Anyway i look forward to watching more of your videos. keep it up. I do enjoy tinkering though and you get a huge sense of satisfaction when you have accomplished it. i also want to raptor paint this van too.
Thanks man! Not a bad choice at all, I can think of worse vans to convert. That's handy! Once it's finished you could use it for the season and then sell up and convert something else? I would like to start mine from scratch. I bought it part converted in the back, its not until you start using it you realise exactly what you would like. Fixed bed is a must for me next time! I don't think you can get it exactly right first attempt. It's a shame about the oven did they replace it? I also find it very satisfying working through all of the jobs to make something good again! thanks for your comment :)
Always leave your eye protection on even when just doing the painting part as bits of rust can still get in your eyes it can scratch your eye membrane's as rust bits are very sharp use your noggin always 💯💪👍🤔
Great video. Getting rare now the Smiley Tranny with that 2.5 York DI Banana engine. ... great old workhorse proper commercial vans, far, far better than (and incredibly less rusty and these Smileys were rotters) than the mk6 and 7 which replaced the mk5. Yes, they 6 and 7 drove more car like but at the cost of woeful engines etc. ....worked at Ford R&D on the mk5 and mk6, the mk6 had a very painful birth I can tell you, never a good sign in my 45 years of auto research.
Thanks mate, it is quite hard to find a good condition one now! I’ve driven a few different vans and there’s nothing like an older transit to drive. It’s like driving around in your favourite arm chair 😆 I’ve seen much newer sprinter vans and transits with a lot more rust, which is a shame. What do you think of the mk8 transits? It seems they may be using a better paint system now as I haven’t seen many rusty ones, although it might be too early to say 🤔
I’ve done a few cars and a van over the last 30 years, will be doing my next van hopefully in a few weeks but I wouldn’t be putting the can on a gas stove , stand it in a container with boiling water is a safer way. Apart from that you’re doing a great job mate.
Great vid pall going to be doing my vito camper nx weekend only difference I can't afford ruining a new white top so might get some throw away overalls lol
Personally I would use Dinitrol ML for the chassis etc . My Shogun was treated new in 2013 and it is literally like new underneath. I've had waxoil fail to flow and not bond to the surfaces, yes I did several cars old and new before moving away. Just my opinion and yes I use a proffessional sealey gun etc
Nice one mate. I’ve a transit connect and I want to do exactly this. I’ve a pit in my garage which will help. What was total cost and total time to do job pls
Thanks mate 😁 maybe around £70 for the materials but already had a Schutz gun. Can be done a lot cheaper using alternatives like red oxide but I think it looks more factory black personally. For a transit connect won’t take as long because it’s a shorter chassis. I will have a work out later and put the price in the description. Thanks for your comment 👍🏼
Appreciate how thorough you are trying to be. Honestly though, all that scrubbing and painting prep is a waste of time. A much more efficient and protective method is to simply spray the whole underneath with a Waxoyl and 10% engine oil mix. This will prevent rust from progressing for 5 years before you need a top-up. I first bought and applied it to a rubbishy old Triumph Spitfire I had in the late 70s and then subsequently to other vehicles. This was in the days when some new cars started to rust through by the time they were a couple of years old. Unheard of now but Waxoyl really worked then and it its still the best at its job now. No prep beyond a good pressure wash underneath and allow to completely dry.
Hi bro like what your doing to the transit when i got mine i had to have a bit of weldingbdone on rear arches but i was told by someone at classic van magazine not to use hammer paint i had it pro done with a wax at my local daf truck dealers was £200 to do then but lasted a good 5 years jave fun any transit is great 👍👍👍👍ps stay safe
Cheers man! I used hammerite as it’s readily available, it’s a well known brand of metal paint and really wanted black chassis. Red oxide would be my choice if I didn’t mind a red chassis. What did they say was wrong with the hammerite out of interest? Thanks for your comment, take care mate 😁👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hiya bud so in short terms it's clean off the rust, apply cortanin to rusted areas, paint with hammerite direct to rust paint, then spray the wax oil inside just the beams and seals? Not on any where else? Also is there a reason you used the paint instead of the hammerite underbody seal with waxoly? Will be first time doing it so not too familiar with how it's done. Thought I'd make use of the nicer weather we have next week 😆. Tia
That’s what I do mate, I use a paint rather than an underbody seal as it tends to peel off and water gets trapped underneath it. With paint you can redo every few years to top up the protection. If you painted it with wax on the chassis would be a nightmare to paint over and also working on a car that has waxoyl on the outer box section is horrible because you get covered in it. I haven’t tried clear waxoyl but might be worth giving that a go as it’s probably cleaner to use. Make the most of the nice weather mate! Won’t be here much longer 😆👍🏼
@@TurnersWorkshop97 Okay mate makes sense! Thankyou for replying and your time. Didn't manage to get it done last week, gotta wait for the next lot of nice weather then I'll get it done 👌
Thanks for the informative vid, reckon I could do this now! Just wondering why you didn't treat the actual base of the van as well, rather tham just the support beams?
Thank you, glad you found it useful 🙂 You definitely could do the whole lot! The main reason I only did the chassis is because that’s the most important part to protect as it’s structural. Also only had one tin of paint and it’s quite a large area to cover 😅
The thing with waxoyl is that it must be warmed. I heat my compressor sprayer steel container with butane torch and then spray it. I do it every 1-2 mnutes to keep it super hot. It sticks and doesn't flake. It says soft. I think it's good but mage there are better products that don't requre so much faf.
proponuje nie używac convertera i Mammerite na rdzę bo to nie ma sensu, w ten sposób tylko przykrywasz korozje której przecież dobrze nie oczyściłeś po umyciu. Na takie podwozie proponuje Dinitrol ML dużo w profile i cienka warstwa na całe podwozie a później Dinitrol 4941 lub Metallic...
great thanks I have a transit custom L2 if yours is an l2 how many litres of hammerite did you end up using? That way I can order the right amount. What size compressor do you use ,mine is small what do you think?
Hi, mine is a long wheel base with extended chassis. Used most of the larger tin so would recommend getting a big tin. Compressor size shouldn’t matter too much, you will just have to let it catch up in between spraying :)
Yes mate no worries, there’s loads of different places selling them here’s one on eBay similar to the one I used. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neilsen-Underbody-Coating-Air-Gun-Waxoyl-Stone-Chip-Tool-Apply-Schutz-CT3527/223508814928?epid=2288058023&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item340a29dc50:g:CxQAAOSwWdFc0uTf&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkgCVySCgrNFPU8Iu85TabMPLqdK8QSDQwThyG8Tycj%252BIi0vTmuVjVgD5jvA8eUFC4gVISAp%252Bpg%252F2say7jo91k0NBvf6cEGstfBK7VUU2al%252ByPOaKa71YMxUKsFIunBJKKs36%252BJGgK5mZ76%252FZWv2r2Jiph5kBIKsuyQiFv5mP7kW0ZqgcZWt%252FVVngxhZ2bPHtaWT2II7EDSe2duw2ef%252FlfVTHMZdQC90slqGfC1cbEvoUaVHuo6%252BQpwp7WXOutjHSuEHlsb4hLuQpjHEm3Xx6pRlIq5eyoJN3KN9rA065mTgzgp3%252FfUGVnpMoyu771%252B3njlPD7tpiFZIB4Tb1dLQzdQ8rO%252BWQZN72xxngCx47eCdeavs4QVXEfwdMqj8XAnAkSA3M1hekooYu4eX9ZHE5HXvOiLVNwUWeLkx9AEzrBakpDGaRM71dYL9DGeoKvI1EpyZhbiT6l%252F4LE8kAFWnTqPw8hwXWfWnRViJWk4Sgpi5Q%252FdB6MNxLqoJPUSVmgjcPYklhwTWTYFByXgjr7p0HwbLjWj%252BBdfhl%252B32391jZ5FTbYgMVdqFqIfv2uhUbQr6VW8tvTblx6aFw%252BtTwcZuG2ydHR9R%252BtpYZUzcxu5lwHX8M3XnhMeHMFXkzAm%252BqwQcWYuGY0XlDfsE5cEwalPot3XdcImJhr65oeWf5vNrqeNtW4ixM6X7w0jsa77Vc4mighjlwREQT6ieYZghofMHmFtLHm09cbr8GFIFSWRFMVwr%252B9JwRwZUKjNwx0TVEjzYD31pTS%252BgnxlVFj7Sn6m3SGBw%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A223508814928c44c9b7c78114ed2b0a5a39030b13806%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524
Is it me or has that has already seen a lot of welding?.....looks likes nice work. If I can add some value to a great video. 1/ loosen the Waxoyl tops before heating and leave it loose as when the Waxoly turns to a fluid it expands....you can get a face full of Waxoyl...ask me how I know? 2/ Those lances that come with the 'Shitz' gun really never worked at all well in my experience and I've had the Sealey and the Buzzweld kit (which was total shite). .....try injecting into a jam jar and see what happens....you see you get a piss poor whips of spread and wonder why you done a whole car with litre. They work on a syphon effect are great for laying underseal on the body, but the 'pressure drop' thru them, when the lance is fitted makes them woeful, even when thinned right down. Worth buying a Sealey SG18 'pressure' gun, £90 but the difference is astounding and something you'll use every year just because it makes the job a lot easier. Downside as anyone will tell you is the top body to gun seal, better to use an O ring, can they leak otherwise. A proper pro pressure cavity gun can be £250 upwards though.
Good job ,but be careful with the tin of wax oil on the gas jet,you know don`t place it on the flame and forget about it walk off and start another job because you will eventually hear an explosion like this,BAWOOOOOOOM! with the product flying everywhere on fire like napalm,so be careful if you can.
I agree. Any rust treatment i've used had rust come back in no time. I even sand blasted a part to bare metal, heated it a little to dry it completely, painted it, only to see rust come back within a year. Short of hot dipping it in zinc, i dont think anything will stop the rust for any decent amount of time. I dont particularly mind doing this kind of work, but having to redo it every year, maybe two, is tiresome!
@@olliea6052 it's all on the prep work that makes undercoating a vehicle a make or break. I've seen people sand their frame down too bare metal and put zinc, primer, and what ever undercoat they chose and use either blaster surface shield or fluid film ontop of the undercoat and doing it that way seems too do the best and holds up alot better vs just sanding lightly and throwing a coating on and calling it a day
@@TurnersWorkshop97 sorry for that gobbledegook message.. I've just bought an I pad and I'm not used to the keyboard as used to Android..It was meant to say I'll send you a pic of my old transit not my address ha...
I cannot stress enough the importance of goggles when working underneath a car.
I found that out last weekend after a visit to the eye doctor. A few pieces of metal found their way around the safety glasses I was wearing
@@tim9m metal is especially dangerous as the eye absorbs it if it's not dealt with quickly. I've had some horror stories; scrapings taken with a scalpel, corneal graft, stitches pulled out of eyeball. To be avoided at all costs.
Just can't believe you did all this wearing a nice white hoodie!
It was a nice white hoodie and I miss it 😭 in all fairness it did have stains already and holes in it so it was heading for the bin.
Nice to see you did a great prep job. Not scared to get your hands dirty. I am a firm believer in proper prep mostly by hand. More time consuming but the final result is better and longer lasting.
Cheers mate, it’s definitely not a perfect job but I’m glad it’s got some protection now 👍🏼
@@TurnersWorkshop97 that van looks in good condition nealy all of those are rotten 👍
Thanks mate, I try to keep on top of the rust
Don't own a transit but this has given me a bit of a better idea of what to do in regards to undersealing my Lancer! Appreciate it! Great video mate!
Thanks mate, really glad it helped 😁
I will be buying a used van soon. Thanks for showing what I'm in for. Good info to bring to our attention
No worries mate, thanks for watching 👍🏼
Well done lad. You did a great job there
Thanks mate 😊
I hope you are forgiven for wearing your best white hoodie to do this job.🤣🤣.
Thanks for the demonstration. 👍
This is an absolutely great, really informative video. Thank you so much! It's exactly what I needed to see for my 4x4 transit. I'm surprised you don't have more views or subscribers. I'll share this around :)
Thank you so much, I would really appreciate that. Cheers mate! :)
Great video You can heat the wax oil by filling your sink with hot water and leaving the can laying flat in the hot water for 10 mins far safer than the enclosed can in a flame which could explode 🤔👍💪💯
also, always good to see the underside of a vehicle properly. really demystified the chassis structure for me.
A very informative video thank you. Your Transit is looking well for it’s age. We have a smiley Motorhome too.
No problem at all, thank you! She’s not doing too bad, still lots of jobs to do to get it how I want it. Good choice, they make a great camper 😁
Excellent video! Really helpful info for all van owners not just transits. I'll be trying this out on my old Leyland DAF camper. Bought some waxoyl ages ago but had no idea how to apply it. Just ordered myself a shutz gun and borrowed a mate's compressor. Nice one mate!
Thanks mate! I’ve just changed the name so hopefully it will reach a wider community! Glad you found it useful 😁 Thanks for your comment I really appreciate it 👍🏼
I'm doing a van conversion and this video has been such a huge help. Thank you! As a 22 year old with no prior knowledge who was fairly clueless about van care/rust protection, I'll be following this video step by step.Quick question.
No worries mate, enjoy the conversion! Go for it
@@TurnersWorkshop97 the rust converter dosn't work.
I've been doing similar to this.
I use an angle grinder, with a brass wire brush to remove rust from larger areas and a cordless drill and dremel with wire brushes for the smaller areas.
I use Dinitrol rust converter. It's expensive, but seems to have a good reputation. Usually 2 coats.
Then usually 2 coats of Hammerite, direct to rust,
I've not used the oil method inside my sills yet, but as a Skoda owner in Scotland, with rusty sills i'm going do it, and maybe top it up a little every year after i repair the rust.
I’ve heard good things about Dinitrol, will have to try it some time 👍🏼 Nice work, I had enough after one coat of hammerite 😂 will probably do the same again next year to top up. Oil or wax oil in chassis is really good for protecting the metal! Best if it hasn’t started rusting yet but it still slows the rust 👍🏼
Good job I have done this to my transit it’s one of the worst jobs to do but worth it in the end
Thanks, It certainly isn’t a pleasant job but glad it’s mostly protected for the winter. Living on the coast doesn’t help either for me!
Great job
Great videos. I'm currently converting a mark 6 transit minibus into a camper. Not really an ideal van thinkng about it but I'm too far in to stop lol trying to get it ready for post lockdown however I'm very reluctant to do stuff myself. My dads done the wood work so far and hes making a lovely job so i dont want to ruin his handy work. Next week im going to start trying to push the build forward. Wish i stripped an old caravan now. Especially the oven, sink ect. Instead i have bought one of these modern combination sink and hob and feel like it was a waste of money even if it does look good. The sink is far too small lol. I also bought a modern oven and when it arrived the door was smashed. Anyway i look forward to watching more of your videos. keep it up. I do enjoy tinkering though and you get a huge sense of satisfaction when you have accomplished it. i also want to raptor paint this van too.
Thanks man! Not a bad choice at all, I can think of worse vans to convert. That's handy! Once it's finished you could use it for the season and then sell up and convert something else? I would like to start mine from scratch. I bought it part converted in the back, its not until you start using it you realise exactly what you would like. Fixed bed is a must for me next time! I don't think you can get it exactly right first attempt. It's a shame about the oven did they replace it? I also find it very satisfying working through all of the jobs to make something good again! thanks for your comment :)
good video thank you
Currently doing this on my mk6 escort van and mk4 escort, dirty job but someone’s gotta do it lol, thanks for the helpful vid👍🏼
Haha nice work, it’s got to be done 👍🏼
Good job, mate!!
Always leave your eye protection on even when just doing the painting part as bits of rust can still get in your eyes it can scratch your eye membrane's as rust bits are very sharp use your noggin always 💯💪👍🤔
Get yourself some overalls save your nice white hoodie and pants! it looks a lot more professional 💯🤔👍
Great video.
Getting rare now the Smiley Tranny with that 2.5 York DI Banana engine.
... great old workhorse proper commercial vans, far, far better than (and incredibly less rusty and these Smileys were rotters) than the mk6 and 7 which replaced the mk5. Yes, they 6 and 7 drove more car like but at the cost of woeful engines etc.
....worked at Ford R&D on the mk5 and mk6, the mk6 had a very painful birth I can tell you, never a good sign in my 45 years of auto research.
Thanks mate, it is quite hard to find a good condition one now! I’ve driven a few different vans and there’s nothing like an older transit to drive. It’s like driving around in your favourite arm chair 😆 I’ve seen much newer sprinter vans and transits with a lot more rust, which is a shame. What do you think of the mk8 transits? It seems they may be using a better paint system now as I haven’t seen many rusty ones, although it might be too early to say 🤔
I’ve done a few cars and a van over the last 30 years, will be doing my next van hopefully in a few weeks but I wouldn’t be putting the can on a gas stove , stand it in a container with boiling water is a safer way. Apart from that you’re doing a great job mate.
Thanks mate, point taken. Sometimes the quickest and easiest way is not always the safest 👍🏼
That will outlast most transits built today well done. Just bought a load of wax oil for my mx 5 but no paint. Is that a waste of time?
Great job bud, be doing this myself soon
Thanks mate, good luck 😅 👍🏼
Rust a big problem with these old transits ---- it was when they were new its a good job we love um 😆👍👌👏
Haha it certainly is! 😆👍🏼
Great vid pall going to be doing my vito camper nx weekend only difference I can't afford ruining a new white top so might get some throw away overalls lol
Cheers mate, you are wise unlike me. I do miss that jumper :(
Personally I would use Dinitrol ML for the chassis etc . My Shogun was treated new in 2013 and it is literally like new underneath. I've had waxoil fail to flow and not bond to the surfaces, yes I did several cars old and new before moving away. Just my opinion and yes I use a proffessional sealey gun etc
Nice one mate. I’ve a transit connect and I want to do exactly this. I’ve a pit in my garage which will help. What was total cost and total time to do job pls
Thanks mate 😁 maybe around £70 for the materials but already had a Schutz gun. Can be done a lot cheaper using alternatives like red oxide but I think it looks more factory black personally. For a transit connect won’t take as long because it’s a shorter chassis. I will have a work out later and put the price in the description. Thanks for your comment 👍🏼
Great job transit will rust badly if not coated.I think thinner coat better as traditional underseal can drop allowing moisture to penetrate
Appreciate how thorough you are trying to be. Honestly though, all that scrubbing and painting prep is a waste of time. A much more efficient and protective method is to simply spray the whole underneath with a Waxoyl and 10% engine oil mix. This will prevent rust from progressing for 5 years before you need a top-up. I first bought and applied it to a rubbishy old Triumph Spitfire I had in the late 70s and then subsequently to other vehicles. This was in the days when some new cars started to rust through by the time they were a couple of years old. Unheard of now but Waxoyl really worked then and it its still the best at its job now. No prep beyond a good pressure wash underneath and allow to completely dry.
Not even sure you need to completely dry it, the Waxoyl displaces the water anyway.
Great video .. I am about to sort out my VW T25
just one thing .. do i have to wear a white Nike hoodie to do the work ?
Haha 😂 it’s essential! Good luck mate
Good job 👍
Thanks mate 👍🏼
Hi bro like what your doing to the transit when i got mine i had to have a bit of weldingbdone on rear arches but i was told by someone at classic van magazine not to use hammer paint i had it pro done with a wax at my local daf truck dealers was £200 to do then but lasted a good 5 years jave fun any transit is great 👍👍👍👍ps stay safe
Cheers man! I used hammerite as it’s readily available, it’s a well known brand of metal paint and really wanted black chassis. Red oxide would be my choice if I didn’t mind a red chassis. What did they say was wrong with the hammerite out of interest? Thanks for your comment, take care mate 😁👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Just done my mark 2 rav 4 good vid 👌
Nice work 😁 thanks man 👍🏼
@@TurnersWorkshop97 no probs showing some support nice van too look after them they will look after u my ravs 20
Good job
Hi, thanks for the video, what do you have attached to the spray gun? Is it a can of compressed air?
Hi, you attach a compressor to the spray gun
Hiya bud so in short terms it's clean off the rust, apply cortanin to rusted areas, paint with hammerite direct to rust paint, then spray the wax oil inside just the beams and seals? Not on any where else? Also is there a reason you used the paint instead of the hammerite underbody seal with waxoly?
Will be first time doing it so not too familiar with how it's done. Thought I'd make use of the nicer weather we have next week 😆.
Tia
That’s what I do mate, I use a paint rather than an underbody seal as it tends to peel off and water gets trapped underneath it. With paint you can redo every few years to top up the protection. If you painted it with wax on the chassis would be a nightmare to paint over and also working on a car that has waxoyl on the outer box section is horrible because you get covered in it. I haven’t tried clear waxoyl but might be worth giving that a go as it’s probably cleaner to use. Make the most of the nice weather mate! Won’t be here much longer 😆👍🏼
@@TurnersWorkshop97 Okay mate makes sense! Thankyou for replying and your time. Didn't manage to get it done last week, gotta wait for the next lot of nice weather then I'll get it done 👌
great job
Thanks mate 👍🏼
Thanks for the informative vid, reckon I could do this now! Just wondering why you didn't treat the actual base of the van as well, rather tham just the support beams?
Thank you, glad you found it useful 🙂 You definitely could do the whole lot! The main reason I only did the chassis is because that’s the most important part to protect as it’s structural. Also only had one tin of paint and it’s quite a large area to cover 😅
Great vid! I'm doing my rear drive shaft this week,i might try spraying WD40 onto it first to hopefully loosen some of the rust.
Thanks man! Hope all goes to plan, definitely worth giving it a good spray up before 👍🏼
The thing with waxoyl is that it must be warmed. I heat my compressor sprayer steel container with butane torch and then spray it. I do it every 1-2 mnutes to keep it super hot. It sticks and doesn't flake. It says soft. I think it's good but mage there are better products that don't requre so much faf.
Good job mate, need to get mine done in spring when the weathers a bit better....
Thanks mate, wise choice! It’s getting fresh out there 😆
proponuje nie używac convertera i Mammerite na rdzę bo to nie ma sensu, w ten sposób tylko przykrywasz korozje której przecież dobrze nie oczyściłeś po umyciu. Na takie podwozie proponuje Dinitrol ML dużo w profile i cienka warstwa na całe podwozie a później Dinitrol 4941 lub Metallic...
great thanks I have a transit custom L2 if yours is an l2 how many litres of hammerite did you end up using? That way I can order the right amount. What size compressor do you use ,mine is small what do you think?
Hi, mine is a long wheel base with extended chassis. Used most of the larger tin so would recommend getting a big tin. Compressor size shouldn’t matter too much, you will just have to let it catch up in between spraying :)
Wondered does wax oil set hard, or will it drip off gradually in hot weather?
It doesn’t set hard, in the really hot weather it does melt a little 😁 best for in the chassis really 👍🏼
Hi mate can you put link up for the spray gun add on to attach to can?
Yes mate no worries, there’s loads of different places selling them here’s one on eBay similar to the one I used. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neilsen-Underbody-Coating-Air-Gun-Waxoyl-Stone-Chip-Tool-Apply-Schutz-CT3527/223508814928?epid=2288058023&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item340a29dc50:g:CxQAAOSwWdFc0uTf&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkgCVySCgrNFPU8Iu85TabMPLqdK8QSDQwThyG8Tycj%252BIi0vTmuVjVgD5jvA8eUFC4gVISAp%252Bpg%252F2say7jo91k0NBvf6cEGstfBK7VUU2al%252ByPOaKa71YMxUKsFIunBJKKs36%252BJGgK5mZ76%252FZWv2r2Jiph5kBIKsuyQiFv5mP7kW0ZqgcZWt%252FVVngxhZ2bPHtaWT2II7EDSe2duw2ef%252FlfVTHMZdQC90slqGfC1cbEvoUaVHuo6%252BQpwp7WXOutjHSuEHlsb4hLuQpjHEm3Xx6pRlIq5eyoJN3KN9rA065mTgzgp3%252FfUGVnpMoyu771%252B3njlPD7tpiFZIB4Tb1dLQzdQ8rO%252BWQZN72xxngCx47eCdeavs4QVXEfwdMqj8XAnAkSA3M1hekooYu4eX9ZHE5HXvOiLVNwUWeLkx9AEzrBakpDGaRM71dYL9DGeoKvI1EpyZhbiT6l%252F4LE8kAFWnTqPw8hwXWfWnRViJWk4Sgpi5Q%252FdB6MNxLqoJPUSVmgjcPYklhwTWTYFByXgjr7p0HwbLjWj%252BBdfhl%252B32391jZ5FTbYgMVdqFqIfv2uhUbQr6VW8tvTblx6aFw%252BtTwcZuG2ydHR9R%252BtpYZUzcxu5lwHX8M3XnhMeHMFXkzAm%252BqwQcWYuGY0XlDfsE5cEwalPot3XdcImJhr65oeWf5vNrqeNtW4ixM6X7w0jsa77Vc4mighjlwREQT6ieYZghofMHmFtLHm09cbr8GFIFSWRFMVwr%252B9JwRwZUKjNwx0TVEjzYD31pTS%252BgnxlVFj7Sn6m3SGBw%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A223508814928c44c9b7c78114ed2b0a5a39030b13806%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524
👌👍
Sorry but this is wrong. Clear Waxoyl is used for box sections, not black. black is as an underseal.
Thanks for your feedback, after using the black I’d probably go for clear next time. Just because of how messy it was 😅
Is it me or has that has already seen a lot of welding?.....looks likes nice work.
If I can add some value to a great video.
1/ loosen the Waxoyl tops before heating and leave it loose as when the Waxoly turns to a fluid it expands....you can get a face full of Waxoyl...ask me how I know?
2/ Those lances that come with the 'Shitz' gun really never worked at all well in my experience and I've had the Sealey and the Buzzweld kit (which was total shite).
.....try injecting into a jam jar and see what happens....you see you get a piss poor whips of spread and wonder why you done a whole car with litre.
They work on a syphon effect are great for laying underseal on the body, but the 'pressure drop' thru them, when the lance is fitted makes them woeful, even when thinned right down.
Worth buying a Sealey SG18 'pressure' gun, £90 but the difference is astounding and something you'll use every year just because it makes the job a lot easier. Downside as anyone will tell you is the top body to gun seal, better to use an O ring, can they leak otherwise. A proper pro pressure cavity gun can be £250 upwards though.
white hoodie :-)
😆 It’s my new fashion line
Remove the lid before heating the tin.
💯😅
Good job ,but be careful with the tin of wax oil on the gas jet,you know don`t place it on the flame and forget about it walk off and start another job because you will eventually hear an explosion like this,BAWOOOOOOOM! with the product flying everywhere on fire like napalm,so be careful if you can.
What a shame you destroyed that nice white hoodie 🤘🇬🇧
Tell me about it! Was my fave, can’t have any decent clothes in this game 🙄😆
RIP white hoodie...
I do miss that hoodie ☹️
There called sill not seal 😂😂👍
Tomayto, tomahto 🍅😅
Hey young man. Please, please, please wear a mask, googles ad gloves.
You shouldn't paint over rusty brake pipes you should renew them 😱
Dont bother with waxoil its useless on older vehicles, you will be doing it all again the following year
100% corrosion will return, such protection with cheap products.
For closed sections, it is linen wax, not black asphalt
I agree. Any rust treatment i've used had rust come back in no time. I even sand blasted a part to bare metal, heated it a little to dry it completely, painted it, only to see rust come back within a year. Short of hot dipping it in zinc, i dont think anything will stop the rust for any decent amount of time. I dont particularly mind doing this kind of work, but having to redo it every year, maybe two, is tiresome!
@@olliea6052 it's all on the prep work that makes undercoating a vehicle a make or break. I've seen people sand their frame down too bare metal and put zinc, primer, and what ever undercoat they chose and use either blaster surface shield or fluid film ontop of the undercoat and doing it that way seems too do the best and holds up alot better vs just sanding lightly and throwing a coating on and calling it a day
ford is rust bucket ....
I love this van ..I really do..Are you on Instagram and I will send you a pic of my old address he I had ten years ago
Thanks mate 😊 I do have instagram it’s turners workshop, would love to see it cheers 👍🏼
@@TurnersWorkshop97 sorry for that gobbledegook message.. I've just bought an I pad and I'm not used to the keyboard as used to Android..It was meant to say I'll send you a pic of my old transit not my address ha...