Very interesting and informative video. My only observation would be around the torque process of the pulleys. These have quite weak keyways and its recommended that you hold the pulley using a tool whilst torque up, not the shaft. I learnt this the hard way after my engine builder sheared the top pulley key during 're build and the timing slipped. We were very lucky no internal damage occurred.
That center crank bolt, you really REALLY need to replace that thing. I could see the polished threads as you were fitting it into the crank. Also, you didn't torque it correctly as your crank was turning while doing the 90° turn after your preload torque. Don't think you even got 45 of the 90°. That's a torque to yield bolt (stretch bolt). On your EA827 variant ("058 block"), that bolt is only a M14 grade 8.8 bolt vs a M16 grade 10.9 bolt on the EA113 variants ("06A block") torqued to same spec and also noted as "Always Replace" in repair manuals. The nerd-ineering/engi-nerding about stretch bolts aside, you have to remember on these engines (also many other german engines, particularly the VW flavor), the clamping force from that bolt is all that's holding the sprocket onto the crank. The indexing notch is not doing anything to mitigate the load of the valve train, damper pulley mass and accessory loads effectively working to constantly loosen the bolt/sprocket unlike engines which use a keyed friction/press fit over/around the crank stub (effectively some degree of splined press fit). Basically the clamping force has to be higher than the highest tangential force exerted against it (I think that's correct nerd-ineering verbage...) For comparison and perspective, if you do some google keyboard warrior searching, you'll find plenty info of people who have done hot-roding VW modifications and crank bolts loosening, bad enough to cause complete & extreme engine failures I imagine. I'm inclined to think many, if not most all of those cases are more likely due to people reusing their crank bolts or cranking even new bolts down way crazy with a rattle gun so tight that the bolts stretch too far into the plastic deformation stage (just as bad, maybe worse than reusing old bolts). People having issues with small M8 pulley bolts losening seems even more common, but again, proper torquing concerns. Some extreme HP builders are also drilling and pinning the cranks/sprockets. Also, when Audi/VW developed the EA113 engines into the 2.0L Direct Injection Turbo variant, they also fitted a "Diamond Coated" friction disk/shim between the crank & sprocket, obviously to mitigate possible bolt/sprocket loosening knowing they'd be producing factory variants pushing towards the 300HP range (Mk6 Golf R) and I guarantee you they even anticipated the tuner guys going crazy with the early BPY engines, hence they even fitted the pulleys with 6 grade 10.9 bolts instead of continuing with 4. As for my personal experience seeing first hand the importance of replacing stretch bolts. Having worked on many B5 chassis A4's & Passats (mechanically the same car), those cars are quite common for rear wheel bearings failing on the AWD models and the front wheel bearings on the 2WD models. The common denominator, M14 vs M16 stretch bolts, though with those wide shoulder socket cap (allen head) bolts the M16 are only grade 8.8 also. Of these particular wheel bearings I've done, more than just a few were replacing relatively new bearings. A couple of which had only made it a couple of weeks. Every one of those, shiny new wheel hub and a rusty old M14 bolt that got reused. One in particular I remember I could have loosened the bolt with just a 3/8 ratchet. Bolt was stretched to the point of being about as useful as a string cheese snack. Many years ago now, someone wised up and seems like all the wheel bearings are only sold as kits with req. hardware included. Anywho, been thinking several days now, you may actually want to give some serious thought about that crank bolt beyond simply just putting a new bolt in there, (properly torqued of course. My 3rd sentence above). Your bolt part# N90367001 - M14x1.5x39 grade 8.8. You could consider bolt# N10555602 - M14x1.5x40 grade 10.9. Just about identical shoulder width/dia. on that bolt but it's a XZN head (maybe 1mm bigger). It's a rear caliper bolt for first gen Touregs, Q7's and Cayenne with OE torque of 100Nm+90°. Be interesting to see what clamping force it would make at the 90Nm+90° of the OE crank bolt or the 100Nm+90°.... Fairly certain there ought to be a phone app these days to calculate fastener load data......Maybe also see if TDI bolt# N90577101 - M14x1.5x47 grade 12.9 is an option if the crank has the threaded provision for a longer bolt and torque to TDI spec. I'd also wonder what an outfit like Integrated Engineering would say beyond of course telling you to buy their $50+shipping bolt performancebyie.com/products/arp-crank-damper-bolt-for-058-18t-engines-fit Also, for torquing the extra 90°, you'd be better off making a paint mark on the bolt inline with one of the M8 holes and turning to line up with the next one and probably better to use a breaker bar for the extra 90°. You might also consider replacing the four M8x16 pulley bolts with grade 10.9 bolts part# N10303607. I'm more partial to 10.9 XZN bolt# N91143901, like I used on my BEA 1.8T. If I was in your shoes, I'd probably just use the N10555602 bolt with it's torque spec. and replace the cam and intermediate shaft bolts too and call it good. Part #'s for those N90625701, N90256201 & 027109143 Probably a good idea to drill a piece of flat bar for a holding tool on the sprocket. As you have that bolt right now, I wouldn't trust it even for grandma's grocery getter. Sorry for the long ramble. Hope all works out good Also might be helpful for part #'s audi.7zap.com/en/usa/ volkswagen.7zap.com/en/usa/
I'm not sure if it's the same on this engine, but the 30v V6s have a hole in the crankcase where you screw in a special pin that locks the crankshaft at TDC - that's why they have no timing mark on the crank pulley. I suppose you don't really need it when you have the engine out of the car though :)
Pls what's the likely problem of my VW 1.8 20 valves car. The car was overhauled rings were charged, but it shorten engine oil and there is no any sign of smokes from the exhaust. Please help me out.
@@vsvenson Yes the engine is getting burned up after the rebuilt. And no smoking from the exhaust. What's likely problem and if it's getting burned in the combustion what's the solution to it? Because I equally have the same problem.
Your videos are so relaxing to watch. Great content.
Very interesting and informative video. My only observation would be around the torque process of the pulleys. These have quite weak keyways and its recommended that you hold the pulley using a tool whilst torque up, not the shaft. I learnt this the hard way after my engine builder sheared the top pulley key during 're build and the timing slipped. We were very lucky no internal damage occurred.
Great video! 20 ft lbs is torque spec on the drive belt tensioner pulley, took me a bit to figure that out so wanted to share.
That center crank bolt, you really REALLY need to replace that thing. I could see the polished threads as you were fitting it into the crank. Also, you didn't torque it correctly as your crank was turning while doing the 90° turn after your preload torque. Don't think you even got 45 of the 90°. That's a torque to yield bolt (stretch bolt). On your EA827 variant ("058 block"), that bolt is only a M14 grade 8.8 bolt vs a M16 grade 10.9 bolt on the EA113 variants ("06A block") torqued to same spec and also noted as "Always Replace" in repair manuals. The nerd-ineering/engi-nerding about stretch bolts aside, you have to remember on these engines (also many other german engines, particularly the VW flavor), the clamping force from that bolt is all that's holding the sprocket onto the crank. The indexing notch is not doing anything to mitigate the load of the valve train, damper pulley mass and accessory loads effectively working to constantly loosen the bolt/sprocket unlike engines which use a keyed friction/press fit over/around the crank stub (effectively some degree of splined press fit). Basically the clamping force has to be higher than the highest tangential force exerted against it (I think that's correct nerd-ineering verbage...)
For comparison and perspective, if you do some google keyboard warrior searching, you'll find plenty info of people who have done hot-roding VW modifications and crank bolts loosening, bad enough to cause complete & extreme engine failures I imagine. I'm inclined to think many, if not most all of those cases are more likely due to people reusing their crank bolts or cranking even new bolts down way crazy with a rattle gun so tight that the bolts stretch too far into the plastic deformation stage (just as bad, maybe worse than reusing old bolts). People having issues with small M8 pulley bolts losening seems even more common, but again, proper torquing concerns. Some extreme HP builders are also drilling and pinning the cranks/sprockets. Also, when Audi/VW developed the EA113 engines into the 2.0L Direct Injection Turbo variant, they also fitted a "Diamond Coated" friction disk/shim between the crank & sprocket, obviously to mitigate possible bolt/sprocket loosening knowing they'd be producing factory variants pushing towards the 300HP range (Mk6 Golf R) and I guarantee you they even anticipated the tuner guys going crazy with the early BPY engines, hence they even fitted the pulleys with 6 grade 10.9 bolts instead of continuing with 4. As for my personal experience seeing first hand the importance of replacing stretch bolts. Having worked on many B5 chassis A4's & Passats (mechanically the same car), those cars are quite common for rear wheel bearings failing on the AWD models and the front wheel bearings on the 2WD models. The common denominator, M14 vs M16 stretch bolts, though with those wide shoulder socket cap (allen head) bolts the M16 are only grade 8.8 also. Of these particular wheel bearings I've done, more than just a few were replacing relatively new bearings. A couple of which had only made it a couple of weeks. Every one of those, shiny new wheel hub and a rusty old M14 bolt that got reused. One in particular I remember I could have loosened the bolt with just a 3/8 ratchet. Bolt was stretched to the point of being about as useful as a string cheese snack. Many years ago now, someone wised up and seems like all the wheel bearings are only sold as kits with req. hardware included.
Anywho, been thinking several days now, you may actually want to give some serious thought about that crank bolt beyond simply just putting a new bolt in there, (properly torqued of course. My 3rd sentence above). Your bolt part# N90367001 - M14x1.5x39 grade 8.8. You could consider bolt# N10555602 - M14x1.5x40 grade 10.9. Just about identical shoulder width/dia. on that bolt but it's a XZN head (maybe 1mm bigger). It's a rear caliper bolt for first gen Touregs, Q7's and Cayenne with OE torque of 100Nm+90°. Be interesting to see what clamping force it would make at the 90Nm+90° of the OE crank bolt or the 100Nm+90°.... Fairly certain there ought to be a phone app these days to calculate fastener load data......Maybe also see if TDI bolt# N90577101 - M14x1.5x47 grade 12.9 is an option if the crank has the threaded provision for a longer bolt and torque to TDI spec. I'd also wonder what an outfit like Integrated Engineering would say beyond of course telling you to buy their $50+shipping bolt performancebyie.com/products/arp-crank-damper-bolt-for-058-18t-engines-fit
Also, for torquing the extra 90°, you'd be better off making a paint mark on the bolt inline with one of the M8 holes and turning to line up with the next one and probably better to use a breaker bar for the extra 90°. You might also consider replacing the four M8x16 pulley bolts with grade 10.9 bolts part# N10303607. I'm more partial to 10.9 XZN bolt# N91143901, like I used on my BEA 1.8T. If I was in your shoes, I'd probably just use the N10555602 bolt with it's torque spec. and replace the cam and intermediate shaft bolts too and call it good. Part #'s for those N90625701, N90256201 & 027109143
Probably a good idea to drill a piece of flat bar for a holding tool on the sprocket.
As you have that bolt right now, I wouldn't trust it even for grandma's grocery getter.
Sorry for the long ramble. Hope all works out good
Also might be helpful for part #'s
audi.7zap.com/en/usa/
volkswagen.7zap.com/en/usa/
A wealth of information here - thanks for the long response. You've convinced me to get all new bolts for the front end.
Damn dude knowledgeable right here thank you thank you
Cool! Keep the updates!
I'm not sure if it's the same on this engine, but the 30v V6s have a hole in the crankcase where you screw in a special pin that locks the crankshaft at TDC - that's why they have no timing mark on the crank pulley. I suppose you don't really need it when you have the engine out of the car though :)
True, but this pin is only in v6 and v8
nice video. I need to replace all the oil seal. Any video on that ?
you make it move without tension on the belt...?
Pls what's the likely problem of my VW 1.8 20 valves car. The car was overhauled rings were charged, but it shorten engine oil and there is no any sign of smokes from the exhaust. Please help me out.
I'm not sure I understand the question - you say it's consuming oil after a rebuild? If it's not leaking out, it's getting burned up in combustion.
@@vsvenson Yes the engine is getting burned up after the rebuilt. And no smoking from the exhaust. What's likely problem and if it's getting burned in the combustion what's the solution to it? Because I equally have the same problem.
@@shehuusman8994 did you replace valve stem seals? Even with bad ones this engine doesn't smoke but eats oil a lot.
Can you maybe help me with my audi b4 i am looking to swap it with 1.8t but no mechanichs in my country that would do that for old car like that
Where did you buy the timing kit? If you still remember. It's quite difficult to the the kit for a 058 block.
Pelican parts
Are you in the USA? I need some work done to an Audi
What was your reference for torque specs?
Just a Google search and verify.
8:28 what’s the size of that rim?
The hose holder on the wall? That's a 16"
Step one remove engine from car. Step two replace belt.
This is not a AEB engine ... te head no isnt big port