Replacing the timing chain tensioner on a 1.8t B5 B5.5 Volkswagen Passat Audi A4
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- Опубліковано 26 жов 2021
- Welcome back to @AutoScholarwithMrB ! Today we are replacing the timing chain tensioner for this 1.8 turbo engine. The procedure normally calls for removing the timing belt, however there is a way to do this without removing the belt, or even setting the engine to top dead center!
Parts needed are timing chain tensioner, gasket set for the tensioner, valve cover gasket, and the special tool for compressing the tensioner (which should come with the new tensioner.)
If you have camshaft position codes, and your timing belt timing and condition is good, the tensioner has probably failed. A failed tensioner also can cause noise at start up and while the engine is running.
BE SURE TO MARK EVERYTHING!!! FAILURE TO CORRECTLY MARK ALL PARTS WILL RESULT IN ENGINE VALVE DAMAGE OR TIMING BEING OFF!!!
WARNING: Do not use a cheap tensioner bought on Amazon or Ebay, it will fail. The Dorman set or the factory tensioner is recommended.
Links below may provide compensation for the cannel. Thanks for the SUPPORT!
Correct Dorman timing tensioner set: amzn.to/3KLBsXS
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Please LIKE and SUBSCRIBE, and drop any questions in the comments.
#timingchaintensioner #1.8t #timing chain - Авто та транспорт
Thank you for this video! I will likely be doing this exact job on my 1.8T VW Jetta soon. I’ll probably be referencing back to this multiple times. Much appreciated! 👍🏼
Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB just an update. I just finished the job this evening. She is purring like a kitten now! The engine knocking sound is gone! I can’t thank you enough! You helped me more than you probably realize. Thank you so MUCH!! 👍🏼👍🏼
@@josephbowden2125 that’s good to hear, this is why I do these.
Super helpful video! Used it to do the chain tensioner on my 1.8t I’m working on
Thanks for watching! Glad it helped.
Another fabulous video to keep these Passats on the open road! Lots of love from Pittsburgh PA. I need one of those Vapor Hone machines, by the way. 🤓
Thanks again Adam! Yeah the vapor hone is awesome.
very good video you´re very good at explaining everything you´re doing thank you i´ll try this on my audi 1,8t
Thanks for watching Nikolaj!
Best video ive seen on this. I have to do this soon. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Very good vid, I will have to do this on an Audi A6 2.8 v6, but it is practically the same. Thanks Roland from good old Germany
Thanks for watching Roland!
Good job, u explained very well what needs doin. Thanks a bunch.
Thanks for watching Alton!
Followed the video to the letter, but then got a very rough idle and flashing check engine light. Panic set in. 😅. I bumped the motor to get it as close to TDC as I could. I must have had a chain link on top of a gear tooth when I first started it because after bumping the motor it is now in perfect time and has never rum smoother. Be careful when rotating that cam. It is the crucial step that must be done carefully. Great video.
Will you ever do a video for a complete fuel tank removal for this car? I’m in the process of pulling mine just to refresh all the hard lines and rubber hoses, as well as replacing the in-tank fuel pump. I’m amazed by how many lines are involved!
Badmans, bigup yaself, really helpful, saved my motor!
Glad I could help, thanks for watching!
Great video man.. very informative.. thanx
Thank you so much for this video tutorial information that help me a lot because I have the same problem to do to fix. Again thank you so much! 😊
Thanks for watching Luis!
yes I also removed the e g r valve , it does make it easier,especially for when placing the tensioner back in place
Good vid for DIY'ers. Half of the top plastic of the compression tool that came with the cam chain tensioner broke and I was very gentle compressing it. Lucky it did not end up in the block and found it under the car so don't freak out if you hear a loud crack. It will work with just half the of the top too. Mark the inside of the cam position sensor piece so you know which way it goes back on. I used welders paint in a marker size from Harbor Freight to mark cams etc. Cheers.
Thanks for the tip Steve!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I went to double check my work and looked at the original tensioner and found one of the 2 tangs was missing. Sure enough it had broken off while pulling it under the cam chain and fell under the exhaust cam but when I tried to pull it out it slipped into one of the small oil holes. Can you believe that?
Tried squirting oil and blowing inside to move it but cannot see it. Mr. B do I just run it for a bit and and then remove the valve cover and check under the cams hoping it will appear and be removable? Where would it end up if not found? I cannot understand how cast metal would just break off like that. I was so happy I got it done just like you showed too.
Whew...found it pooled in oil down under one of the exhaust cams after I vacuumed out the oil. It is not magnetic so had to tape a piece of tubing on to my shop vac and carefully suck it out. All good now! Lucky it was the entire tang too.
@@Scuba4178 glad you got it squared away!
thank you
Good vid good explanation, at least this was going to us owner of 1.8 T VW/AUDI even I don’t know how can i handle this alone because honestly sorry I cannot ask n spend much money to any garage mechanic either to do this except myself and I’m not a mechanic either, could be a good challenge too
Thank you
Hey this was an awesome video, what do you do if your end double cap at the front of the engine won’t budge ?
Good tutorial! I do'nt know if i missed it, but i guess you put the engine at TDC before starting the removal?
Thanks for the video!
I think the torx bit broke because the extension was too long on the ratchet, which allowed a too much angled operation.
It’s possible, it was also a very old socket. I try to use extensions while filming to keep my hands out of the way of the camera. Thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I didn't think about that! It makes a lot of sense. Very thoughtful of you. Keep up the good work, your videos have real value!
@@AutoScholarwithMrBNothing to do with extension. You used the that tiny ratchet when you need to use a bigger one to be able to apply more force in a controlled fashion. Trying to apply that much force on the small ratchet got you all out of shape and ones you slip something is going to brake or round off. You lucky your bit broke.
Next time use a proper sized ratchet for the job, it’s all.
Nice job 👍 keep up your great work!!!!
Great video. What torque wench did you use? Could you post a link?
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for this video. After tensioner replacement the "diesel" noise is gone, but there is another noise present now when reving. Like there is some rubbing against something. I guess the tensioner needs some time? What do you think? Many thanks
I would check everything to make sure it is tight. I’ve never had this happen before.
FWIW, removing the combi-valve does make the job less frustrating. It's only held on with 3 bolts that can be reached once the valve cover and a couple of vacuum lines are removed. Just remove the 2 vacuum lines on the top and the 3 bolts on the back (don't drop the metal gasket when you remove the valve). I have over 400K miles on my 2001 a4 with the 1.8 AWM so I've done this at least 4 times now. I end up spending more time cleaning up the oil residue from the inevitable valve cover gasket leaks.
Oh yeah in an A4 I definitely do that, but the Passat has less room there for some reason, so it’s about the same aggravation. Also you can take the top bolts out, and leave the bottom one in, but loose, and it swings out of the way. Thanks for commenting! Hope you have a great 2022!
What is your method for cleaning the oil residue?
Original owner of 2001 AWM here.
Have you had to change the chain itself jet? How bout oil pump? Some independent Audi specific mechanics refuse to change the tensioner without changing oil pump claiming it could be either.
@@MD-gk4uh I've replaced the cam chain once just because it was cheap and it seemed like I should do it after so many miles but I really don't think it needed it I've also never dropped the pan so everything down there (including the pickup tube) is original. I've used Mobile 1 0w-40 synthetic and the larger filter basically from the start except for a couple of the early free Audi oil changes but I never trusted the oil they used since it was just conventional. I've connected an oil pressure gauge at the oil cooler and the pressure at hot idle is a bit lower than I'd like but still acceptable and expected for and engine with so many miles. With that in mind I probably should plan to change the pump, chain and pickup tube the next time I pull the front end for the timing belt service as a PM.
@@MrSykes Thank you. I have used the 0-40 Mobile 1 full sync since day one just like you and use the bigger MAN filters too.
I have changed the back seal and half moon seal ones and did not see any oil gunk. Everything has that yellowish tint to it and that is normal for Mobil 1.
I plan on trying to sneak in my camera trough the oil drain hole and see if Incan inspect the pick up screen. If it’s not dirty I won’t touch anything down there unless I have a another reason to drop the subframe, in which case I might replace the pump and oil pick up too.
Thanks again.
Does the timing chain not usually stretch? I'm wondering how safe it is to just replace the tensioner?
I earn a lot thank you very much
Nice vid! I am probably going to do this on my A4 pretty soon.
Is it the same procedure for an AWM w/ variable cam timing?
I believe so. Thanks for watching!
I’d like to see a video about changing the CHAIN.
I just changed the chain on my 2003 Jetta without removing the belt. Not easy, but not quite as difficult as I expected. It took me about 4 hours, going carefully.
@DoctorWonka did you leave the exhaust side bolted in and did you ziptie the belt onto pulley ?
@@RekitRalph666 That may have been a good idea. But, no. I was just used paint marks, and was extremely careful.
Did you use a 6mm cam lobe cap removal allen key ?
I have a car where a correlation error has come up. I want to replace the cam chain, the tensioner and the belt. How would you go about doing it.
Thank
Great video. Just off topic, I have the same engine. During the summer months, first crank in the morning the engine does not start. 2 times it starts and through out the day no starting issues. No codes, coolant sensor replaced. Any ideas?
Thanks
These had issues where the fuel pump would bleed pressure off when you shut them off. I would put a fuel pressure tester on it and see if it loses pressure after you turn it off. Also stuck open fuel pressure regulators and injectors can bleed off fuel pressure as well. Thanks for watching, I hope this helps!
Hello sir. I need your help or advise. I have the 2003. 2.8l v6..code p0010 . I went through all the possible causes . I replaced both camshaft position sensor .and their wiring. The code is still up .now , before I really go deep in replacing the cct , is their a way I can know if its bad ? What would you do if you were me at this point ? Hope to get an answer as I'm at loss here ,thank you very much
so after wrestling with the new tensioner i lost my white out marks and the chain slipped off. i have no idea what the correct orientation is anymore. what do i have to do now
Saw a previous comment here. Got me worried that my tensioner will fail as it's not OEM but not the cheapest either, sort of on the upper mid-range of part. But if I do it right the part will last much longer than expected. If not, we're down a car. I'm going to try and tackle this and take it easy driving it. There is a rattle when it's cold out on first start-up, so this may help come winter... I hope.
The tensioner in this video is a cheap one and failed a week later. I would use a Dorman or OEM.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Many thanks for the reply. But I'm tight on time and can't wait to order another brand of tensioner. The one I have is ready to be installed and this video is helping a lot.
@@Dymundback is the aftermarket one still working?
@@batinbladeIt held up for the first few months, that cold start rattle has returned, but the tensioner hasn't failed completely. i may need to grab another one, maybe.
Really usefull video. Could you please let me know what you use to mark the camshafts position. I believe there is special marker which does not erase easily. A link to a website where I can buy such will be appreciated!
I just used a touch up paint marker and it worked well. Make sure you clean the area before adding it and use a bright color. Thanks for watching!
I used welders paint in a marker found at Harbor Freight. Shake it well each use. Cheers
another question on the tensioner. Is there a budget brand you can recommend for the tensioner? There is a big price difference. Thanks again
Absolutely not. I put a Chinese one on here and it went bad and ruined the head a week after this video was filmed. Some people have good luck with Dorman. I used a subpar part because I just bought this to do videos with and ended up scrapping it.
Oh yea getting that tensioner back in which messing up the half moon gasket is hard. I did it a long time ago and it sweats a bit of oil but nothing I'm worried about.
Right! It’s that dang combination valve that makes it tough. Thanks for watching!
for your cam chain tool did you use one made out plastic or billet aluminum
Plastic, but if you do a lot of these I would recommend a metal one.
On higher engine does the chain has a tendency to stretch? I purchase a 2001 a4 1.8t and it would have skipped a teeth (not yet investigated) but if it's really the case, should I replace the chain and tensioner or only the tensioner?
Idk what was the real issue but the car runs like a champ... It didn't skip a teeth in the end :p
Howdy! I wanted to just triple check that this is the same operation for an AWP motor in my GTI. I’d assume it’s all the same (rotated 90*) but wanted to ask someone wiser than myself
Should be the same, thanks for watching!
Why could I not see the cam marks before you removed the tensioner? Is there a tutorial on how to get it to TDC where you replaced the tensioner? The marks aren't the same before and after.. @AutoScholarWithMrB
The tool stripped the threads on the old tensioner. Any hints on how to compress the tensioner without the tool? By the way, I have the same color wagon with about 170K on mine.
doing this right now, i used a plastic slide clamp normally used for woodworking. I clamped it on the head and the tensioner.
I did this job today. The car runs great, maybe a little bit more responsive too. I did have a blinking oil light when the car warmed up. I have lots of oil. I wonder where I went wrong?
You might have to clean the oil pick up tube. If you have a transversal 1.8t, it will be easy to do, if you have a longitudinal 1.8tQ it will be harder because you will have to drop your subframe in order to get to the oil on bolts
@@mk4geo822 Thanks I was able to drop the oil pan and clean the pickup tube. PROBLEM SOLVED! It was filthy and really clogged.
@@wizbang16 was your motor in an Audi or VW ?
@@mk4geo822 2005 Bug
hello. after removing the double cover, the oil seals will not flow
Is necessary replace chain too?
Is it really okay to just do the tensioner?
Is there a correct orientation for the half moon
How would one make sure that the cams are at top dead center with the crank
Wollte ich durchführen. Aber bei mir waren die Schrauben von den Nockenwellenhalter komplett fest. Fazit ich hab nur die Dichtung gewechselt.
Thanks for this! Is it true you need a polydrive bit for the cam caps?
Regular torx works fine. Head bolts are poly. Thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Thank you sir. My sons car has this exact problem. We will be saving at least $1000
@@dk3062 $1000 is big money nowadays!
Hey Mr. B, I have to do this job as a piece of the plastic guide on my tensioner sheared off, would you think it is a good idea to purchase a Gates cam chain tensioner or should I go with another brand? One more question, is it unnecessary to replace the chain itself?
I would use the Dorman kit or OEM. I don’t normally replace the chain. If you do, make sure you mark the new chain EXACTLY IN THE SAME SPOT AS THE OLD CHAIN. Thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Thank you! I really appreciate your response; super helpful video!
@@OhThatsZeke no problem my friend!
Is it possible to remove the tensioner without that tool by removing the intake cam? I was using the tool and the bolt snapped so I'm unable to compress the tensioner to remove the slack
I am not sure, but I’ve had the tool break on me and could not. I had to go borrow one to finish.
Hello, to replace the chain - do you need to drop the oil pan?
I'm having a hard time to find information. I will need my oil pan removed anyway, to change the oil pump and oil intake pipe. Thought it would also be a good idea to change the chain aswell, since i don't know how long it has been used(If the oil pan needs removal, because doing seperate wouldn't make sense for me)... I've had problems with oil pressure, letting off gas rattles the chain, i figured it might be a clogged intake pipe for the oil pump, so im just gonna change those parts for maintenance. I will also have to change the valve cover gaskets, half moon etc. so might aswell combine everything..
If you could give me an answer, i'd be very thankful, thanks in advance.
Oil pan will not have to come off. Thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Thank you, for the quick reply, I appreciate the detailed walkthrough of the procedure!
If i had my timing belt and water pump changed....should the tuning chain tensions have been changed at the same time to save money....in the long run?
They are normally separate operations in my experience.
Hey i got a question bought all the stuff to do this myself at home but i’m not sure what size but you’re using for the cam caps
T30 torx if I recall correctly
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thank you very much! i’m excited to use your video to guide me through my installation
Thank you awesome video
What is the name of the tool
Chain tensioner tool
Do you have the Dorman part number for the AWM 1.8T chain tensioner?
917-021 is what I used
Hey I have a car exactly the same but my car just started burning my number 29 fuse it's 20amp for engine management.. any recommendations on what can I do if u had the this similar case
I think shorted a shorted coil may cause this but I’m not sure
Is it more likely for it to be the tensioner than the pump or pickup screen
Low oil pressure can cause the tensioner to fail, but I’ve seen them fail on their own as well.
What are the black plastic covers on the cam? Are that actually that important? My 1.8t doesn’t have them installed
Some cars have them and some don’t, not sure about the reasoning. Seems like the earlier don’t have them as often. I wouldn’t worry about them if you don’t have them.
Voice to the air filter when the accelerate the engine from idle fast and stop and reapet
Hey Thanks for the video! Doing this myself I got stuck as the cam chain tensioner was not a VVT sensor AND the double cap closest to cambelt wouldnt budge after taking off the singular ones next to chain. Any advice?
Edit- got this off eventually and got the job done after watching this video.
Ive uploaded a short on my channel to the exact sound I was getting that lead me to change the temsioner. 👍
1.8T BAM engine FYI. Appreciate any help
Bump
@@mk4geo822 i figured it out, they do come off with a bit of prying.
@@mk4geo822 Hey man thought check in, hope u managed to fix. Im running a china tensioner and over 1k miles in, and a alot of spirited drives, still doing OK. May be a cheaper solution to the VAG stealership prices...
@@1.8Troubles I was thinking of fcp’ng the timing chain tensioner I’m gonna have to do this job soon soon. How hard would you rate the job?
Hi I have an 03 a4 1.8t. The car drives ok but slooooooow acceleration and there is a vibration most noticeable on acceleration. Would this be a potential culprit? Everything front suspension and mounts has been replaced. Thanks
The vibration on accel is normally the inner cv joints on these. Also any issue with the timing chain system should trigger camshaft allocation codes. Hope this helps.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thank you! both CV joints have been replaced trying to track down the vibration. You video made me wonder if it was more of a timing issue as there is an associated sever decrease in power. thanks again ill check the code!
Can this problem affect the perfomance and fuel consumption?
Most likely.
Is this the same for a b6 a4
Is this why I'm getting a slapping noise in idle after 10 mins of running and goes away when throttle on ? 2001 golf gti 1.8t
Very possible. I would pull the valve cover and inspect to make sure.
I don't understand why the marks on the camshafts are not aligned, is the tensioner not working properly? because the tensioners that are not VVT are always aligned the marks, so placing them dry (without oil pressure )
That is just the way that VW decided to put their marks. It doesn’t make any sense to me either. Thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB and how can you tell if the tensor is good? Log block 91? VVT is for emissions or is it to improve performance?
how tight do you want the chain itself?
Should be pretty tight when the tensioner is decompressed.
Can you kindly explain the operation of that chain tensioner
Keeps intake and exhaust cam connected, and will advance the intake valve timing using oil pressure.
Hi Mr B. Can the chain be replaced by not removing the exhaust cam (and thus the belt in the front)?
It looks like it goes under the cam, is there no place to slide it out from behind the cam wheel?
@Auto Scholar with Mr B
Has anybody here experienced the metal wing breaking on the tensioner, just wanted to do the gaskets then that ended up breaking on us while trying to tension it down we ended up having to break the chain and put a new tensioner and chain on, then after tightening the all of the cam caps and shit and releasing the tension it had broken again, going to have to break the chain again and put a new tensioner and chain in again, I would like to make sure it doesn’t happen again
What is the symptoms of a bad tension
Noise and camshaft location codes normally
Arent those cam cap bolts TTY
Nope. Just 10 Nm of torque, or 7 ft-lbs or 84 inch-lbs.
What brand of tensioner do you recommend?
Dorman or OEM, DO NOT BUY AN AMAZON OR EBAY NO NAME TENSIONER. They fail and bend the valves.
Oh, and thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I made the mistake of buying a cheap one.......now I have to redo the job....
I’ve tried doing this but my camshaft won’t come out no matter what I do
Make sure you unbolt all of it + the bolt going into the head around the bottom of the right cam
I’m confused why you would have to replace the whole head if you crack a cam cap couldn’t you just replace the cap?
The caps are machined to the head and the cam as a matched set.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB oh wow I remember years ago a buddy put some of his on backwards and it scored the cam and caps pretty good lesson learned
@@Mk4GTi1.8t yep, it would be a better idea if VW used replaceable cam bearings, but unfortunately they don’t. :(
I am getting a code 16395 B1 camshaft A intake retard set point not reached-over advanced P0011 on my B5 with the AUG engine. Would this account for the symptom of a hesitation when accelerating lightly at 2000 to 3000 rpm? Would the fix be replacing the timing chain adjuster? Does the chain also need to be replaced as well? Also can you recommend a thrifty brand/model catalytic converter for this car to pass the VW's ECU test and Colorado's emissions test that parallels California's regulation? Thanks you very much for your advice. I just found you on line today.
What was the issue and how did you fixed it?
hello. I am deaf. audi a4 b5 change 300,000km ?
I would inspect it and see if there is any wear first.
Remove egr next time
Great tutorial but not the greatest practice in showing others to use a short shank 1/4" Dr. Ratchet to crank 50 plus inch pound bolts loose. Way too much tool pressure for starters, and I hope you run a magnet around that area for fragments of that torx bit that grenaded. Folks, just use a 3/8 Dr ratchet with a nice long shank. Gives you a smooth torque curve, not jumpy. And less hard on your hands too. This is how your shred knuckles.
you did the timing wrong?
Why would you not just take the fucking cams out? By the time you'd arsed around trying to rotate this in you could have just done it properly.
You would have to pull down the front end and remove the timing belt for cam removal. This is definitely quicker than that.
Only reason you'd remove both would be to do the chain itself
wtf is wrong?
Also job n teaching u did 👍I need to do my 02 vw passat 1.8t Timing Chain Tensioner 🧑🔧🧰..
Thanks for watching hector!
Great job & video .Just one question ? Chain tiding self or we must tide it ?
I don't no how working that ?
It will tighten when the engine is cranked. It may rattle a little when first started.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB
Thanks very much .I driving one Passat in Sweden and it's a noise from chain .I must do it ,change spännare .
Great video and you helping a lot to people with vw passat ! 👍
@@zlatkofilipovic1509 glad I can help! I hope to visit Sweden one day. Greetings from the United States!
Hej again .
I have one more question ? How on right way change lifters ? I bought a news and i should soak in oil new lifters ,fill up with oil before chanching or just lubricate them and set on place and start engine ?
Please help ?
Definitely want to submerge in oil for a few hours, but I normally do them overnight.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB
Someone say we should wait 30 minutes before starting car ?
Do you know what they means with that ?
Can tell me please what torque do you use?