Timing Belt Kit w/ Roller www.shopdap.com/06a-198-119-b.html Find all the parts for your VW or Audi! - www.shopdap.com/ - We appreciate your Support and Purchases! -
It's refreshing to see a video that shows the whole process on the TT and all the struggles that go with it. That bracket is an absolute bear. I fight it every time. Thanks for making this and sharing it with us all.
I watched this video, 10x. Finally replaced the TB / WP on 01 Audi TT, first time doing this but it was worth it. It took me 1.5 days as I was extra careful but worth it, learned so much. I struggled with the engine bracket, taking it out & putting back. What I had to do not mentioned in the video: - removed the dog bone underneath - had to loosen the engine mount other side & put two jacks to lift the engine on both side to free up space - matched all 3 for TDC, camshaft marker, crank pulley marker & flywheel marker to be really sure I lined it up correctly & not mess up my timing / valves Most challenging car task I've done but very satisfying when it came out good. Thanks for all the good car DIYs in UA-cam !!!
Hi, please tell me the way you install the “damn bracket “ in I mean from the upper side or bottom side? I’m going to loosen up the dog bone a bit too Thanks, I’ll be appreciated
One tip when doing this procedure: there are 2 holes on the serpentine belt tensioner (pretty much like on the hydraulic tensioner for the timing belt) and you can stick a small allen key or something similar in between to set the tensioner so that it doesn't push on the belt, so that you can route the serpentine belt back without the need to counterhold it all that time ;)
Boy this brings back some memories, 17 years old with my first 1.8t All I had done before was oil changes. Tough job but you can do it with basic tools and the VW forums. Just pay attention to details!!
ManofOth bro this journey is unfolding in front of me and my homie we just purchased 03 golf gti with the 1.8t and we got it for a steal because of the water pump leaking so we just attempted to replace it today. Wish we watched this video before hand because the timing was all out of wack and I have to fix that tomorrow
Tbh that was probably my second time wrenching on a car. Ran into a snag or two, nothing that a lil bit of team work couldn’t handle. After learning about the timing marks is what really helped. This video taught me how to keep the timing in check. It’s just a pain to work in such a tiny area. Do not be afraid to jack your motor up and down given that you remove the motor mount on the passenger side if I remember correctly. Do what you have to to make space. I used a shop rag on the end of a long pry bar several times to help. I’ve worked on quite a few more cars and even dirt bikes since that vw and I would say this wasn’t all that hard mayb 5 or 6 out of 10 on the pain in the ass scale. I recently just had to replace a torque converting solenoid in the transmission of my 2001 cadlliac Seville sls
@@pandahz79 that's cool! What do u mean by out of whack? My freind just bought a 1.8t Jetta cheep with the timing belt already removed and motor mount off so I'm trying to make sure that it will be ok if I'm 180% out I've already turned the motor by the crank pulley a few times to make sure theirs no resistance and it went extremely smooth but idk if I'm 180% out and if I am and try to start it would it damage it but I think it work!
There should definitely be lil markings on the fly wheel and the case of the engine you have to make sure all your timing marks line up before and after you slide the belt on. Can be tricky but just be patient and do your research until you understand what goes on. I’m very sorry as I can’t remember the exact procedure for the Jetta. That was months ago and I have worked on so many engines since then plus I do full time hvac installs so I’m kinda blanking I’m exactly where you need to look on that Jetta
Little trick from an old spanner... Before you remove 4 x hex / allen bolts on crank pulley, give them a good tap on end with a metal drift / bar.. The shock often breaks the seal.. This also works if someone has rounded them before.. Good tapping with flat ended drift actually closes the end of the bolt thus gripping better.. : )
Thank you for this video. This video is the ONLY one I found that actually helped me from start to finish without any gaps where it was stopped to avoid showing the difficult parts.
I can't thank you enough for this video covering the timing belt replacement on the Audi TT 225. I'm a pretty experienced mechanic, but the job would have been much more difficult without your excellent comprehensive video. Very much appreciate your efforts!!
Perfect video , well explained , clear audio , fantastic camera work , and well lit. A very professional result , extremely well explained and packed with information , even down to the torque settings .
Great video. I had a Volvo years ago.... basically the same engine except it was a 5 cyl. Then my TT. I did mine the same way except for one step. I'd like to make life easier on all of you. If you do the pump as well, remove all of the BS and leave the motor mount until last. It comes out through the bottom. NOW.....when you reassemble there's one modification you must make. Take a cut off wheel and chop off the stand off on the water pump. It is for one timing cover bolt. That bolt is not necessary. Removing the stand off allows you to reassemble the entire engine minus serpentine. Release the pressure on the tensioner, the wiggle the motor mount up frome below. You'll need to play around to get the engine in the right spot. I'm telling you friends, that motor mount is nearly IMPOSSIBLE to remove. Good luck!!
Great DIY procedure. I just did this yesterday on my 2001 Audi TT 225 and everything went as expected. The engine mount bracket took 45 min to get out, tried all the angles, raised/lowered the engine...finally came out the bottom. Put it back the same way, from the bottom. The whole process took about 4-5 hours with a lunch break.
@@Jaxson8157 Depends upon your skill level and available tools. If you've tackled similar jobs before, this should take 3-4 hrs to complete...good luck.
@@marcooconnor After you disconnect the engine mount, use a jack to raise/lower the engine to give just the right angle to remove the bracket. It literally to about 45 minute just to remove the bracket, gently moving some of the plumbing pipes/hoses out of the way.
Yep i can get the bracket out. Its getting it back in which i cannot do. The hydraulic tensioner is always in the way. Just wondering if you had to lower the engine significantly to get it back in. My only other option would be to remove the tensioner again and put the mount in first which i really dont wanna do!
Another fun gotcha is water pump seals are lubricated by the coolant. If you start the engine to check your work before filling it with coolant, you run the risk of destroying your brand new water pump. This can even be a risk if you don’t open a bleed screw to ensure the coolant doesn’t have a air lock in the block around the pump...
Excellent video! Was able to follow each step on my 225 and the execution was flawless! Definitely the mount bracket was a PITA but the rest was pretty straight forward. Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video!
I just changed my timing belt on my audi S3 8L 225hp. I am not a mechanic and have never done this type of work. As a matter of fact, no technical experience. It took me 12 hours straight with no breaks. I did not even sit down for a minute. Removing the power steering bottle on the S3 with the same engine is necessary. I managed to get the lower bracket off by removing the tensioner pulley and leading it under the engine bay. Of course, it is important to paint on the belt before removing it. But with that, it came of very easily (had to jack the engine up a bit). After the bracket was removed, I continued the same way. Before putting the new pulley in, I lined up the bracket and the new belt and then I inserted the new pulley. I guess that was a mistake because putting the new belt on was a pain. The rest was straight forward. Don't let the hoses scare you. It really isn't that much. Just somehow looks like a lot on that video. Don't forget to get new bolts for your engine mounts. For the TT and the S3, it is 7 new bolts altogether. For me it was: 2 times - N10209603 2 times - N10516701 1 times - N10328002 2 times - N90712403
best video on the internet for this. very well explained. just bought my TT mk2 and decided to also change the timing belt as it has no history of it being done.
Whomever is doing this job get a good quality name brand tensioner. I recently did a B7 2.0t, with the customer supplied parts, and the tensioner was defect. It jumped a few notches and put it out of time. Fortunately it didn't do any damage to the valves. I replaced with a OEM Audi stamped brand and running well again.
I replaced the engine in a Mk4 GTI that I bought from a friend after he blew it, pulled a good motor from a Passat and the major differences were hard coolant lines which had to be swapped but I did the timing belt and water pump with the good engine out and it wasn't terrible just nerve racking before the first startup most major maintenance I've ever done on a vehicle and I feel like I can do anything now😂, pull two engines to put in one good one
Pro tip, if you strip out your Allen heads on your crankshaft pulley like I did, hammer a 12 point 12 mm socket on the bolt and use an impact to screw it out. There is minimal clearance between the Allen heads and the large crank bolt so you need to hammer the socket on hard and get in as deep as you can. Good luck!
Its great when someone makes a guide for a process that they are also learning at the same time… “what i found was” is a clear indicator of that. Oh that and the fact that he pulled the pin before doing a test rotation is another classic rookie error…. OH and the engine mount fiasco….
I have never changed a timing belt on a VW/Audi and today I was able to do it just with your video. Thanks for the help specially for including the torque figures. Appreciated. Keep it up.
Started with this as a guide and gave up at the bracket. This thing beat me despite getting the engine sky high. I will try a guide that says first remove the belt and then the bracket will drop down instead of trying to pull it upwards. EDIT: The video shows unecessary suffering. You remove the belt with screwdriver (with tensioner still in place) from crank pulley and water pump, a little at a time. Then the bracket can be dropped from below.
Im glad i made my choice with an a4 b5, just got to remove the front bumper and radiator to get started. I will use this video for the actual swap eventhough it's pretty straight forward
Pro tip for AUG and AWM engines (longitudinal B5/5.5 Passat): replace the failure-prone hydraulic plunger / tension idler assembly with the Audi AMB-style manually-tensioned idler. Conversion kits are readily available for these engines, but I can't speak for the transverse-mounted 1.8T shown in this video.
got 290k miles on my 03 Auti TT 1.8 AWP and i'm about to change the timing belt (again, every 75k miles) and never knew that was an option. That'll be nice if i do it on someone's car with lower miles where spending the little extra would mean they could go back to the original service schedule of 105k miles. From what I'm aware they changed it to 75k (some kits call to replace at 50k) because of failing tensioners and maybe water pumps idk
exactly how I felt when I watched part of this and Sarah N Tuned's 1.8t timing belt install on her 225 TT lol. so many little things that make it easy to make a mistake.
Actually it's pretty easy, just take your time. The most import part is getting the timing marks correct and double checking by manually rotating the engine. I find the 1.8T one of the easiest engines to work on. I've completely removed an engine from a mark 1 TT and swapped in a good short block since the original had a blown cylinder. Since it was a FWD model it had the same 06A block as a VW Jetta so finding a replacement was easy and low cost.
Just received my timing belt kit (timing belt, tensioner, tensioner pulley, H2o pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, serpentine belt, new hardware, o-rings and gaskets). Starting this job the day after tomorrow. I'm a little concerned about the Continental belts however...it is marked as 'made in Mexico'. I may be mistaken, but I thought I remembered Continental being a German manufactured product.
ok, I have a rebuilt head sitting in place, not torqued, and I have watched many videos on replacing the bad belt. As I look at my crank pulley through the wheel well, I see another belt that drives the Alternator, and AC compressor. Does this belt need to come off as well, or can I turn crank to TDC, and be ok? Or... do I still need to remove a motor mount to place the new belt? Great video By the way!
Thanks so much for this video, brought me great success! This looks incredibly intimidating at first, but trust me, watch it 4-5 times and it becomes easy as pie. took me a few hours, but it was a success. That engine mount bracket is a real bum though. I found that it is actually easier to drop it down through the engine. And then reinstall it from the top.
Really nice video, with no corners cut and great commentary. I've recently bought a 2005 TT with the 225hp, assuming it would be simpler to work on than my B5 S4 which I've had for 15 years. Looks like I was wrong! This makes changing the TB on a 2.7 V6 look easy in comparison. Fortunately the TB on the TT has been done recently, so I can prepare myself mentally for a while before starting. Nothing is easy on either of these cars, but I do love owning and driving them...
Hi, you can get a tensioner removal bolt Lol. 55mm m6 I think and a nut (see other 1.8t vids like exovcds) Damper in the vice! Use the bolt & there is no need. Many other vids show this. Also timing belt removal not exactly the same as 2.0 tfsi engines. Thanks for the conent. I have made use of some of your other vids & they were all helpfull. Sometimes to see what not to do lol.
I find that with a small amount of gasoline and a couple of matches it solves many problems. Then again.... Paul intresting videos. I did mine this past summer on my 05 gli mk4 1.8t with automatic. The engine mount bracket was to say the lease the mother of all pains in the ass, not to mention getting the thing back in. The car survived my repair so far, and running. Fir the time being. My wife hid my matches from for now. But she did say if it requires a major repair again she'll hand over my matches and we can get this wiener roast going. Again. Nice work.
I was going to ask..how did you get it back in? I am completely stuck. Can you remember if you got it in from the bottom or top? Not sure if you need to raise the engine super high or what..
@@marcooconnor it wasn't easy to be honest. I got stuck quite a few times try to get it out and back in. Here's the the thing about all these videos on this subject it seems no tells you much less shows you how to do this part of the diy. It may work for you, it sounds lousy it it's the way I got it in. Make sure the belt is on along with the tensioner. I lowered the motor down on the psg side to work the bracket in. Slipped a bolt to hold the bracket on (loosely) raised up a little at a time and fought with it for a while. End result I got it back together. It's been over 2 years since I did it. The car has since been long gone. When it left it was running fine, but there was a basket of things to still do and after that I really didn't want to go through any more stuff with the car. So I went and bought a gti. A 2013... So far so good. It is a difficult job on the mount. Not much room. Raise it lower it and you can only get it through the bottom make sure you use new bolts for the mounts. Can't reuse the old ones, make sure the mount is aligned properly. Good luck.
Thanks mate. Much appreciated. Yeah i know the feeling regarding the amount of jobs needing doing on the car! Takes up way to much of my personal time now.
Does the bracket on the engine that is difficult to remove need to come all the way out? With it loose I think I can get the tensioner and pulley out and new ones installed. Am I missing something?
Great question that I have right now. I am stuck at removing the loose lower mount, and thinking like you that I can move the mount enough to get the tensioner out. Going to try it since I am really struggling with removal of the loose mount.
I got a Leon cupra and going to do the timing belt kit soon. What brand would you choose? From my research ina and gates are what I want but not sure out of these two
The 1.8t 150PS ARX engine on the Octy mk1 4x4 is fundamentally the same engine as shown in this video, so it should be applicable. Things that vary on the 4x4 ARX engine like a different turbo oil line etc shouldn't affect this job.
I remember doing this job on my MKV GTI with a single piece timing cover. Getting that engine mount bracket out is such a PITA. I still have the car and will probably end up doing this job again I'm guessing. That timing belt cover will get cut away this time and replaced by a two piece...
What about changing the camshaft oil seals, how much extra work is that and how difficult is it? Why not change those every time doing a timing belt change?
I did my timing belt and my piston was at top dead center and cam gear timing marks were lined up but when I put my harmonic balancer back on the notch on the balancer was to the right of the arrow on the lower timing cover by about a 16th of an inch. My car will not start and it throws up a p1338 cam sensor code can you help?
When you started the vehicle at the end why was there smoke coming from the engine? Mine is also smoking like that after starting up. Thanks and great informative step by step video!
I bought the engine mount from Euro tuning this should work on the Audi TT 2006 FWD right? Thanks for your excellent video. I watched a few and yours is the best. I liked the up-close footage removing the impossible engine bracket. It finally came out by jacking the engine high enough and jerking it out.
When needing to take your car to someone else or a shop ( not a dealer) how much should I expect to pay in parts and then how much for labor, so that I have an idea of the correct price someone should be charging for the change. Also do some cars just require the bumper & radiator to removed in a 2003 A4? I’ve been told conflicting requirements.
The position of the cogs doesn’t matter it’s the relation to each other that does eg mark cog & belt to make sure -is this right ? There seems to be a mark on the engine mentioned but then it didn’t seem important Also is all 3 cogs (2 top 1 bottom) have to be positioned ? There only seemed to be 2 marks made on the belt
The problem is how to put the “support mount engine back “ after all this done first - this damn thing is terrible job for me than getting TB righty in the place - I need a week to just figure it out,no action yet because I’m not a mechanic , I need a pry bar and to jack the support engine from right side position as you as probably can help a bit of gap than jacking up from the front But I love this vid and how you explained well yeah pretty good advice in detail n “thank you so much” n next I n will be going to purchase another some parts from DAP when I got this thing done 🫡
You wouldn't be afraid of it skipping time when you removed the tensioner, if you used timing locks.. yes you can get the job done without them. However, for me, and I emphasize, FOR ME, it's not worth the trouble.. just buy the locks and be safe :)
Good job without using VW tools, but please, is it okay to jack the engine on oil sump? I saw some oil is around crankshaft - toothed belt sprocket, is there any oil leak from the sealing flange on the belt pulley side?
Anyone helps Coolant air bleeder at where could disconnect allowed air burlap.before pure the coolant antifreeze in ?.... ..... had a 2001 Audi TT 1.8l turbocharged..
I've just done the belt on my 2004 Skoda Octavia 1.8t (arx) The engine mount bracket is the worst part of the job, if you take the rubber bung out the top of the bellhousing there's a timing mark on the flywheel.
I love using this engine but anytime something goes wrong the parts are super f-king expensive... not to mention the constant sludge build up even with quality vw spec oil changed in 5k intervals... its a ticking time bomb even with the upgraded filter and i always let the turbo cool before switching off and even then it still builds sludge that i can see around the filler cap...
Always a pleasure to watch your videos . One question as we could see clearly. How do you set the tensionner roll once in position ( some tensionner have a mobile arrow to aline with a mark on the tensionner in order to set it at the right value) thanks for you response 🤓
@@Jackinacox to clarify where I was going with that comment... I think the only tfsi with a belt was the 06-08 audi 2.0T. That engine is almost identical to the mk5 gti engine (2.0T FSI). So if there is a video for mk5 gti timing belt, it should suffice perhaps
Timing Belt Kit w/ Roller
www.shopdap.com/06a-198-119-b.html
Find all the parts for your VW or Audi! - www.shopdap.com/
- We appreciate your Support and Purchases! -
It's refreshing to see a video that shows the whole process on the TT and all the struggles that go with it. That bracket is an absolute bear. I fight it every time. Thanks for making this and sharing it with us all.
I'm glad it wasn't just me :-)
if u push down it can go easy insted of pulling up.
I watched this video, 10x. Finally replaced the TB / WP on 01 Audi TT, first time doing this but it was worth it. It took me 1.5 days as I was extra careful but worth it, learned so much. I struggled with the engine bracket, taking it out & putting back. What I had to do not mentioned in the video:
- removed the dog bone underneath
- had to loosen the engine mount other side & put two jacks to lift the engine on both side to free up space
- matched all 3 for TDC, camshaft marker, crank pulley marker & flywheel marker to be really sure I lined it up correctly & not mess up my timing / valves
Most challenging car task I've done but very satisfying when it came out good.
Thanks for all the good car DIYs in UA-cam !!!
Hi, please tell me the way you install the “damn bracket “ in I mean from the upper side or bottom side?
I’m going to loosen up the dog bone a bit too
Thanks, I’ll be appreciated
One tip when doing this procedure: there are 2 holes on the serpentine belt tensioner (pretty much like on the hydraulic tensioner for the timing belt) and you can stick a small allen key or something similar in between to set the tensioner so that it doesn't push on the belt, so that you can route the serpentine belt back without the need to counterhold it all that time ;)
Yup. If you pay attention there are little details like this where VW/Audi make your job way easier.
Good to know, thank you! I wish i knew that when i changed my serpentine belt yesterday haha
Gonna have to check that out!
Genius
Boy this brings back some memories, 17 years old with my first 1.8t
All I had done before was oil changes. Tough job but you can do it with basic tools and the VW forums. Just pay attention to details!!
ManofOth bro this journey is unfolding in front of me and my homie we just purchased 03 golf gti with the 1.8t and we got it for a steal because of the water pump leaking so we just attempted to replace it today. Wish we watched this video before hand because the timing was all out of wack and I have to fix that tomorrow
@@pandahz79 and how did that go? Lol
Tbh that was probably my second time wrenching on a car. Ran into a snag or two, nothing that a lil bit of team work couldn’t handle. After learning about the timing marks is what really helped. This video taught me how to keep the timing in check. It’s just a pain to work in such a tiny area. Do not be afraid to jack your motor up and down given that you remove the motor mount on the passenger side if I remember correctly. Do what you have to to make space. I used a shop rag on the end of a long pry bar several times to help. I’ve worked on quite a few more cars and even dirt bikes since that vw and I would say this wasn’t all that hard mayb 5 or 6 out of 10 on the pain in the ass scale. I recently just had to replace a torque converting solenoid in the transmission of my 2001 cadlliac Seville sls
@@pandahz79 that's cool! What do u mean by out of whack? My freind just bought a 1.8t Jetta cheep with the timing belt already removed and motor mount off so I'm trying to make sure that it will be ok if I'm 180% out I've already turned the motor by the crank pulley a few times to make sure theirs no resistance and it went extremely smooth but idk if I'm 180% out and if I am and try to start it would it damage it but I think it work!
There should definitely be lil markings on the fly wheel and the case of the engine you have to make sure all your timing marks line up before and after you slide the belt on. Can be tricky but just be patient and do your research until you understand what goes on. I’m very sorry as I can’t remember the exact procedure for the Jetta. That was months ago and I have worked on so many engines since then plus I do full time hvac installs so I’m kinda blanking I’m exactly where you need to look on that Jetta
Little trick from an old spanner... Before you remove 4 x hex / allen bolts on crank pulley, give them a good tap on end with a metal drift / bar.. The shock often breaks the seal.. This also works if someone has rounded them before.. Good tapping with flat ended drift actually closes the end of the bolt thus gripping better.. : )
Thank you for this video. This video is the ONLY one I found that actually helped me from start to finish without any gaps where it was stopped to avoid showing the difficult parts.
I can't thank you enough for this video covering the timing belt replacement on the Audi TT 225. I'm a pretty experienced mechanic, but the job would have been much more difficult without your excellent comprehensive video.
Very much appreciate your efforts!!
Perfect video , well explained , clear audio , fantastic camera work , and well lit. A very professional result , extremely well explained and packed with information , even down to the torque settings .
Great video. I had a Volvo years ago.... basically the same engine except it was a 5 cyl. Then my TT. I did mine the same way except for one step. I'd like to make life easier on all of you. If you do the pump as well, remove all of the BS and leave the motor mount until last. It comes out through the bottom. NOW.....when you reassemble there's one modification you must make. Take a cut off wheel and chop off the stand off on the water pump. It is for one timing cover bolt. That bolt is not necessary. Removing the stand off allows you to reassemble the entire engine minus serpentine. Release the pressure on the tensioner, the wiggle the motor mount up frome below. You'll need to play around to get the engine in the right spot. I'm telling you friends, that motor mount is nearly IMPOSSIBLE to remove. Good luck!!
Good idea and can be my last battle pass! Thanks
Great DIY procedure. I just did this yesterday on my 2001 Audi TT 225 and everything went as expected. The engine mount bracket took 45 min to get out, tried all the angles, raised/lowered the engine...finally came out the bottom. Put it back the same way, from the bottom. The whole process took about 4-5 hours with a lunch break.
Thanks for this! Going to do my 01 180 and wanted a real idea on how long it will take!
@@Jaxson8157 Depends upon your skill level and available tools. If you've tackled similar jobs before, this should take 3-4 hrs to complete...good luck.
@wasim How did you get the bracket in? Did you lower the engine? I cannot get it in at all..tried for over an hour from bottom and top.
@@marcooconnor After you disconnect the engine mount, use a jack to raise/lower the engine to give just the right angle to remove the bracket. It literally to about 45 minute just to remove the bracket, gently moving some of the plumbing pipes/hoses out of the way.
Yep i can get the bracket out. Its getting it back in which i cannot do. The hydraulic tensioner is always in the way. Just wondering if you had to lower the engine significantly to get it back in. My only other option would be to remove the tensioner again and put the mount in first which i really dont wanna do!
Another fun gotcha is water pump seals are lubricated by the coolant. If you start the engine to check your work before filling it with coolant, you run the risk of destroying your brand new water pump.
This can even be a risk if you don’t open a bleed screw to ensure the coolant doesn’t have a air lock in the block around the pump...
Excellent video! Was able to follow each step on my 225 and the execution was flawless! Definitely the mount bracket was a PITA but the rest was pretty straight forward. Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video!
It took me 2 hours to get that engine mount out. I wish i found this video sooner
I just changed my timing belt on my audi S3 8L 225hp. I am not a mechanic and have never done this type of work. As a matter of fact, no technical experience. It took me 12 hours straight with no breaks. I did not even sit down for a minute. Removing the power steering bottle on the S3 with the same engine is necessary.
I managed to get the lower bracket off by removing the tensioner pulley and leading it under the engine bay. Of course, it is important to paint on the belt before removing it. But with that, it came of very easily (had to jack the engine up a bit). After the bracket was removed, I continued the same way. Before putting the new pulley in, I lined up the bracket and the new belt and then I inserted the new pulley. I guess that was a mistake because putting the new belt on was a pain. The rest was straight forward.
Don't let the hoses scare you. It really isn't that much. Just somehow looks like a lot on that video.
Don't forget to get new bolts for your engine mounts. For the TT and the S3, it is 7 new bolts altogether.
For me it was:
2 times - N10209603
2 times - N10516701
1 times - N10328002
2 times - N90712403
best video on the internet for this. very well explained. just bought my TT mk2 and decided to also change the timing belt as it has no history of it being done.
I did it today and that bracket was painful but instead of pulling up I put it down. it was the best idea. It won't struggle anymore for sure.
Whomever is doing this job get a good quality name brand tensioner. I recently did a B7 2.0t, with the customer supplied parts, and the tensioner was defect. It jumped a few notches and put it out of time. Fortunately it didn't do any damage to the valves. I replaced with a OEM Audi stamped brand and running well again.
I replaced the engine in a Mk4 GTI that I bought from a friend after he blew it, pulled a good motor from a Passat and the major differences were hard coolant lines which had to be swapped but I did the timing belt and water pump with the good engine out and it wasn't terrible just nerve racking before the first startup most major maintenance I've ever done on a vehicle and I feel like I can do anything now😂, pull two engines to put in one good one
Pro tip, if you strip out your Allen heads on your crankshaft pulley like I did, hammer a 12 point 12 mm socket on the bolt and use an impact to screw it out. There is minimal clearance between the Allen heads and the large crank bolt so you need to hammer the socket on hard and get in as deep as you can. Good luck!
Its great when someone makes a guide for a process that they are also learning at the same time… “what i found was” is a clear indicator of that. Oh that and the fact that he pulled the pin before doing a test rotation is another classic rookie error…. OH and the engine mount fiasco….
I have never changed a timing belt on a VW/Audi and today I was able to do it just with your video. Thanks for the help specially for including the torque figures.
Appreciated. Keep it up.
Great video, clear, concise, well lit. A pleasure to watch. Thank you
Started with this as a guide and gave up at the bracket. This thing beat me despite getting the engine sky high. I will try a guide that says first remove the belt and then the bracket will drop down instead of trying to pull it upwards.
EDIT: The video shows unecessary suffering. You remove the belt with screwdriver (with tensioner still in place) from crank pulley and water pump, a little at a time. Then the bracket can be dropped from below.
Im glad i made my choice with an a4 b5, just got to remove the front bumper and radiator to get started. I will use this video for the actual swap eventhough it's pretty straight forward
Pro tip for AUG and AWM engines (longitudinal B5/5.5 Passat): replace the failure-prone hydraulic plunger / tension idler assembly with the Audi AMB-style manually-tensioned idler. Conversion kits are readily available for these engines, but I can't speak for the transverse-mounted 1.8T shown in this video.
got 290k miles on my 03 Auti TT 1.8 AWP and i'm about to change the timing belt (again, every 75k miles) and never knew that was an option. That'll be nice if i do it on someone's car with lower miles where spending the little extra would mean they could go back to the original service schedule of 105k miles. From what I'm aware they changed it to 75k (some kits call to replace at 50k) because of failing tensioners and maybe water pumps idk
@@MrHeHim The other factor besides mileage accumulation is age, which is the usual reason I replace mine well before 75K miles.
Can't wait to get home and watch this!
Is this the same procedure for replacing the head after a snapped cam belt? Obviously align both halves of the engine, lock and then fit belt.
I got to about 7 mins in and said, no way i'm ever going to attempt this. Respect
exactly how I felt when I watched part of this and Sarah N Tuned's 1.8t timing belt install on her 225 TT lol. so many little things that make it easy to make a mistake.
Actually it's pretty easy, just take your time. The most import part is getting the timing marks correct and double checking by manually rotating the engine. I find the 1.8T one of the easiest engines to work on. I've completely removed an engine from a mark 1 TT and swapped in a good short block since the original had a blown cylinder. Since it was a FWD model it had the same 06A block as a VW Jetta so finding a replacement was easy and low cost.
Just received my timing belt kit (timing belt, tensioner, tensioner pulley, H2o pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, serpentine belt, new hardware, o-rings and gaskets).
Starting this job the day after tomorrow.
I'm a little concerned about the Continental belts however...it is marked as 'made in Mexico'. I may be mistaken, but I thought I remembered Continental being a German manufactured product.
I’ve done this process so many times I still dread it I started the process last weekend and like have to psych myself up to finish lol
One video recommended a beer or two. NOW I know why!
ok, I have a rebuilt head sitting in place, not torqued, and I have watched many videos on replacing the bad belt. As I look at my crank pulley through the wheel well, I see another belt that drives the Alternator, and AC compressor. Does this belt need to come off as well, or can I turn crank to TDC, and be ok? Or... do I still need to remove a motor mount to place the new belt?
Great video By the way!
Thanks so much for this video, brought me great success! This looks incredibly intimidating at first, but trust me, watch it 4-5 times and it becomes easy as pie. took me a few hours, but it was a success. That engine mount bracket is a real bum though. I found that it is actually easier to drop it down through the engine. And then reinstall it from the top.
Really nice video, with no corners cut and great commentary. I've recently bought a 2005 TT with the 225hp, assuming it would be simpler to work on than my B5 S4 which I've had for 15 years. Looks like I was wrong! This makes changing the TB on a 2.7 V6 look easy in comparison. Fortunately the TB on the TT has been done recently, so I can prepare myself mentally for a while before starting. Nothing is easy on either of these cars, but I do love owning and driving them...
Killer diy Paul. Gotta love the 1.8t attention 😁😁😁
I like your assumption that I will make it to a test drive after this job. :D
This is a very good video paying attention to all the details including some GREAT tips. A great resource for DIY’ers
Hi, you can get a tensioner removal bolt Lol. 55mm m6 I think and a nut (see other 1.8t vids like exovcds)
Damper in the vice! Use the bolt & there is no need. Many other vids show this. Also timing belt removal not exactly the same as 2.0 tfsi engines.
Thanks for the conent. I have made use of some of your other vids & they were all helpfull. Sometimes to see what not to do lol.
That tiny tiny little deflection pulley... The rotation speeds on it must be nuts - are they a weak link for longevity?
I find that with a small amount of gasoline and a couple of matches it solves many problems. Then again....
Paul intresting videos. I did mine this past summer on my 05 gli mk4 1.8t with automatic. The engine mount bracket was to say the lease the mother of all pains in the ass, not to mention getting the thing back in. The car survived my repair so far, and running. Fir the time being. My wife hid my matches from for now. But she did say if it requires a major repair again she'll hand over my matches and we can get this wiener roast going. Again. Nice work.
I was going to ask..how did you get it back in? I am completely stuck. Can you remember if you got it in from the bottom or top? Not sure if you need to raise the engine super high or what..
@@marcooconnor it wasn't easy to be honest. I got stuck quite a few times try to get it out and back in. Here's the the thing about all these videos on this subject it seems no tells you much less shows you how to do this part of the diy. It may work for you, it sounds lousy it it's the way I got it in.
Make sure the belt is on along with the tensioner. I lowered the motor down on the psg side to work the bracket in. Slipped a bolt to hold the bracket on (loosely) raised up a little at a time and fought with it for a while. End result I got it back together. It's been over 2 years since I did it. The car has since been long gone. When it left it was running fine, but there was a basket of things to still do and after that I really didn't want to go through any more stuff with the car. So I went and bought a gti. A 2013...
So far so good. It is a difficult job on the mount. Not much room. Raise it lower it and you can only get it through the bottom make sure you use new bolts for the mounts. Can't reuse the old ones, make sure the mount is aligned properly. Good luck.
Thanks mate. Much appreciated. Yeah i know the feeling regarding the amount of jobs needing doing on the car! Takes up way to much of my personal time now.
Does the bracket on the engine that is difficult to remove need to come all the way out? With it loose I think I can get the tensioner and pulley out and new ones installed. Am I missing something?
Great question that I have right now. I am stuck at removing the loose lower mount, and thinking like you that I can move the mount enough to get the tensioner out. Going to try it since I am really struggling with removal of the loose mount.
I got a Leon cupra and going to do the timing belt kit soon. What brand would you choose? From my research ina and gates are what I want but not sure out of these two
My bolts were stripped. How can I remove them when they are in bad bad condition? Should I use T45?
On the MK1 TT, the engine mount drops out easier underneath rather than taking it out from the top, not sure about other cars using the same platform.
just helped me finish everything , went smooth watching this video
I'm hoping there is slightly more clearance for the engine mount on my s3, but I have absolutely no doubt I will be swearing more than him.
I'll be doing my Leon Cupra next weekend, there will be many swears 😂
@@Flash81_ soo how did it go? engine still in one piece x) ?
Hey my water pump on that i bought looks very different app 1.8t. Also it cam with 3 seals to change i didn't see you say anything about the seals ?
Would this tutorial apply for a Skoda Octavia 1.8t 4x4 (1U facelift) as well?
The 1.8t 150PS ARX engine on the Octy mk1 4x4 is fundamentally the same engine as shown in this video, so it should be applicable. Things that vary on the 4x4 ARX engine like a different turbo oil line etc shouldn't affect this job.
I remember doing this job on my MKV GTI with a single piece timing cover. Getting that engine mount bracket out is such a PITA. I still have the car and will probably end up doing this job again I'm guessing. That timing belt cover will get cut away this time and replaced by a two piece...
I cannot get 1 18mm bolt out of the engine mount😕 have tried an impact with a torch and a breaker bar to still no avail
Possible to change timing belt without removing water pump? Water pump was chanhed already..
How many hours would take for this job including the serpentine belt?
Is it the same procedure on audi A3 8l 1.8 20V AGN 125hp?
I think these engines have the same architecture🙄
What about changing the camshaft oil seals, how much extra work is that and how difficult is it? Why not change those every time doing a timing belt change?
that harbor freight BRAUN hood light are pretty good.
What is the marks on the belt for??
Lkke I've done my belt but I just used the timing marks supplied and it's fine
I did my timing belt and my piston was at top dead center and cam gear timing marks were lined up but when I put my harmonic balancer back on the notch on the balancer was to the right of the arrow on the lower timing cover by about a 16th of an inch. My car will not start and it throws up a p1338 cam sensor code can you help?
Good trick with zip tie!!
When you started the vehicle at the end why was there smoke coming from the engine? Mine is also smoking like that after starting up. Thanks and great informative step by step video!
water resedue after the mess that gets hot and cook
Wow -- I had no idea a TB change would be so much more difficult on a TT than on my 2001 (B5) Passat or my son's 2002 (B6) A4.
What happens if the timing belt shaped. How do I make sure it's in the right timming
VW: how many hoses do we put in this engine bay?
Engineers: EVERYONEEEEEE!!!!
VW: how many hoses do we put in this engine bay?
Engineers: Yes
I bought the engine mount from Euro tuning this should work on the Audi TT 2006 FWD right? Thanks for your excellent video. I watched a few and yours is the best. I liked the up-close footage removing the impossible engine bracket. It finally came out by jacking the engine high enough and jerking it out.
When needing to take your car to someone else or a shop ( not a dealer) how much should I expect to pay in parts and then how much for labor, so that I have an idea of the correct price someone should be charging for the change.
Also do some cars just require the bumper & radiator to removed in a 2003 A4? I’ve been told conflicting requirements.
The position of the cogs doesn’t matter it’s the relation to each other that does eg mark cog & belt to make sure -is this right ?
There seems to be a mark on the engine mentioned but then it didn’t seem important
Also is all 3 cogs (2 top 1 bottom) have to be positioned ? There only seemed to be 2 marks made on the belt
I like that magnetic led light bar 💕
Whats the total cost for chain and belt replacement?
Is there no locking tool for this job
The problem is how to put the “support mount engine back “ after all this done first - this damn thing is terrible job for me than getting TB righty in the place - I need a week to just figure it out,no action yet because I’m not a mechanic , I need a pry bar and to jack the support engine from right side position as you as probably can help a bit of gap than jacking up from the front
But I love this vid and how you explained well yeah pretty good advice in detail n “thank you so much” n next I n will be going to purchase another some parts from DAP when I got this thing done 🫡
You wouldn't be afraid of it skipping time when you removed the tensioner, if you used timing locks.. yes you can get the job done without them. However, for me, and I emphasize, FOR ME, it's not worth the trouble.. just buy the locks and be safe :)
I've become more confident and just make my own timing marks now. So much easier.
Not sure what tools you’re referring to for the 1.8t.
Once you pull the pin is there a certain amount of clearance you need between the tensioner and bracket?
Nah the tensioner will do it’s job and push it up
my timing belt was 66 tooth's count, does this suppose to be the same? like yours ? its the same engine actually .my car is audi amk 8l s3
Just did the job following your steps car runs great..thanks
Can 1.8 adr head fit on 2.0 abk block?
Don’t have to make sure #1 piston is tdc ?
I would use silicone spray on the water pump o-ring to make it go in more easily.
Thanks! Reminded me of doing my '82 V.W., that was a quick job.
Oh the memories.
how can we make sure that we aren't 180 out if say the timing belt had broke and are replacing the head?
valve cover off, and look up a engine manual that instructs
Awesome tutorial. Is there much difference from this engine to an 2.0 AAX engine on a MkV Gti FSI?
May you do one for 2.0 FSI non turbo version
Audi a3 1.8 tfsi s line quattro (2014) got chain or timing belt? can't find it in manual
Wana help me do mine haha I'm replacing my camshaft and putting a new belt on just don't have all the tools I need
Fantastic video, hugely helpful. Just finished the cambelt change on my S3 (8l).
How do you keep track of what bolts go where if you just put them all in the magnetic bowl?
basic mechanic experience, and logic
Good job without using VW tools, but please, is it okay to jack the engine on oil sump? I saw some oil is around crankshaft - toothed belt
sprocket, is there any oil leak from the sealing flange on the belt pulley side?
Can you do a video for the 2ltr tdi transporter timing belt
same engine as VW Polo gti 9n3 1.8t??
How much does this cost to have done to a 04 jetta gli 1.8t
Awesome DIY instruction. Thanks for this! It also made me miss my 225 TT.
Anyone helps Coolant air bleeder at where could disconnect allowed air burlap.before pure the coolant antifreeze in ?.... ..... had a 2001 Audi TT 1.8l turbocharged..
Extremely helpful video easily the best on UA-cam, I'm doing my 1.8t next week would you recommend a plastic or metal water pump?
Honestly what kind of question is that... Plastic or metal? 🤷
I've just done the belt on my 2004 Skoda Octavia 1.8t (arx) The engine mount bracket is the worst part of the job, if you take the rubber bung out the top of the bellhousing there's a timing mark on the flywheel.
Is this a hydrolic engine mount, with oil inside?
Is it possible to pop the cover for the timing belt before doing any work?
Yes. Just unclip it at both sides. Easy way to check condition of the belt.
I love using this engine but anytime something goes wrong the parts are super f-king expensive... not to mention the constant sludge build up even with quality vw spec oil changed in 5k intervals... its a ticking time bomb even with the upgraded filter and i always let the turbo cool before switching off and even then it still builds sludge that i can see around the filler cap...
eh what, literally all the parts he used there besides the fancy engine mount, the belts and pulleys with pump and all that around is 200$.
hello . I am Deaf. audi a3 8l 1.8 1997old, belt change 60,000km ?
Clear and simple one of the best video 10q man
Always a pleasure to watch your videos . One question as we could see clearly. How do you set the tensionner roll once in position ( some tensionner have a mobile arrow to aline with a mark on the tensionner in order to set it at the right value) thanks for you response 🤓
Would a timing belt video on the TFSI 2.O engine be possible?
Tfsi with timing belt.... Sooooo audi?
@@buddysshop1860 He's asking for a video on that engine not if it has a timing belt or not.
@@Jackinacox I understand that, just wondering which engine specifically he's asking about.
@@Jackinacox to clarify where I was going with that comment... I think the only tfsi with a belt was the 06-08 audi 2.0T. That engine is almost identical to the mk5 gti engine (2.0T FSI). So if there is a video for mk5 gti timing belt, it should suffice perhaps