Toro CCR Snowblower carburetor rebuild - How to troubleshoot and repair small engine carburetor
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- Опубліковано 27 гру 2013
- Toro CCR Snowblower carburetor rebuild
How to troubleshoot and repair small engine carburetor
Carburetor cleaning
Velvethamma
YTGG - Авто та транспорт
Thanks for the close up on the spring installation. Helped me get my carb back together.👍
Thank you for showing the proper installation of the spring on the float pivot pin. I've cleaned a number of mower and snow blower carburetors over the years but today was the first time I've ever seen that spring.
Before he moved, my neighbor gave me a Toro CCR Powerlite snowblower that been sitting a couple years with gasoline in the fuel tank. I removed the carburetor and cleaned it but didn't pay close enough attention of how the spring was installed when I removed the float pivot pin. The parts diagram for the carb wasn't helpful but I found your video and that did the trick.
To mimimize carb problems, I run non-oxy gas in my mowers and snowblowers and drain the fuel systems at the end of the season. After thoroughly cleaning the carburetor on this recently acquired Powerlite, going forward I should be able to get by without removing the carburetor from the intake and just simply remove the main jet and bowl when the carb needs cleaning.
Thanks for the close up of the spring. Never I have seen one before like that and it was kicking my ass. My guess is its to help the float not drop too far down in the bowl and get hung up
Great instructional video! I just followed your video to the T and brought my snowblower back to life!! Thank you so much!!!
Thanks so much. I had torn my carb apart 3 times, cleaned and re assembled. No luck starting at all. I could not figure the darn think out. It was cleaner than new, so I thought. I watched your video and 17 minutes in, YOU SOLVED MY PROBLEM. You found the blocked super small hole in the float bowl bolt that holds the float bowl on. Once you said "Take a very small wire and push it through" I know you solved my problem. I took the float bowl bolt off, tried to push a wire through. again, again and again. Finally it broke through, cleaned it up and my Snow Blower is back in ACTION. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU. DC, from North Michigan.
I've got the same snow blower and couldn't get it started for our first big snow this year. Took it apart and cleaned the carb out with the help of your video. Running like a champ now. Thanks so much for taking the time!!
Trevor Cole Glad it helped!
Thanks for this video bud, it's exactly two years after you posted it. Recently picked up one of these same Toyo snowblowers for $60 off craigslist, she ran pretty bad until I figured out the carb needed cleaning. This video helps a lot.
+warc8us Glad it could help you out!
Great info in this video, I took the bowl off the carb and sure enough the bolt with the tiny hole was plugged. Put it back on and few pulls later, it fired up and stayed running. Thanks for the video.
mike mcguire
Glad it helped
This is great..won't be snow blowing but to understand these small carbs..great vid Shawn!!
Thanks CJ, glad you got some info out of it
That spring part was priceless! Thanks, man!
Great video! Very helpful. I followed your work step by step and the machine is running great. Thanks for doing it in real time, it made it much easier to understand. Again, thank you.
+David Clark Glad it helped with your repair!
That answered my question on how the spring was supposed to be installed on the float pin. Thanks.
thanks much....I was on the right track, but not all the way...you're video helped much!
Good honest work man keep it up !! Hello from , Montreal , Canada !!
thanks you answered all my questions with your video
I got the snow blower going. When I took the carb apart I realized that the float had fuel in it when I shook it. So I cleaned the float off with some steel wool and found a very small crack which I was able to solder up after I worked the fuel out of the float. I checked the fuel passages then put the carb back together. Runs great and the electric start works also. Can't beat a dumpster find that works this good which only took me less than an hour to fix. Thanks again for the video instruction.
You're welcome!
I just went down to the dumpster to throw away some trash and there it was. A Toro CCR Powerlite-E that someone left there. I took it home and tried starting it. No luck so I tried some starting fluid and that worked. So I am going to clean the carb and see if I get the same results as you did. I am a retired Heavy Equipment Mechanic and I must say that you did a great job with your video. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! I appreciate it.
Good luck getting it going. They are great little snowblowers
Great job cleaned my carb without removing it from the house
Thank you very much. I just replaced my carburator on my Toro 38175 serial 99xxx series
I just got one for free the I'm hoping a good carb cleaning and a new primer bulb will get it runing. Thanks for the video it's just what I was looking for.
Glad it could help!
Thanks man. I have 3 of those that my dad left that don't run. Now I have a place to start. Happy new year to you and yours.
Fuel system issues seem to plague small equipment. Fuel doesn't last like it used to. Too much ethanol draws water into the system and wrecks havoc on them. If it wouldn't have fired, I would have checked for spark first. Sometimes it's as simple as a bad on off switch. Good luck on your snowblowers!
Good fix Shawn, I find those jobs very fiddly! Good tip on the ratchet too, I have a couple because I am so heavy handed! LOL
I used to constantly over tighten fasteners. Now I use the torque wrench quite a bit for sure
thanx, I can do this..Mine broke down this last winter. Will fix it myself.
This helped me a lot- dang thing wouldn't start and it is old. Oddly- there was hardly any gunk in the carb but I did like you said and it fired right up. There has been fuel left sitting in it over the summer for the past 20 years-no wonder it wouldn't fire up. Many thanks
alittlepale
Glad it worked!
Thanks...good stuff, my current machine has my hand raw pulling the cord....l need to remove and clean my carb...thank you
Nice repair Shawn.
It worked... ship it!
Nice video bro
Great video Cheers!
Thanks buddy
It was that float hinge spring that I needed to know about! *phew* Thanks! :-D
Same!!!!!!!!! Thanks!!!!!
Great job guy thanks for the tips..............
No problem. Glad you liked the video
you my friend are a genius, thank you and god bless
+Aaron Gates Thanks for the kind words!
No problem, it's nice to find good videos like this for specific applications and they are a godsend , so thank YOU
Very informative, I can do this on mine I think
Most helpful thanks
Glad I could help
A lot of engines have been used in the power clear series, such as Suzuki, Tecumseh, and Briggs. Today they build their own engines to use in their snowblowers
Nice job Shawn...I'll drop mine off! lol
Piece of cake... wish all of em' went that easy
thank you..
How the needle go into the seat it has a small spring/clip on it which way is it supposed to be oriented? My needle stays close and fuel will not go into the bowl.
thanks
made short work of that bro, cheers
Thanks buddy... and thanks for the sub!
sure thing bro, cheers
well done shawn :)
Thanks Ron
Nothing like small engine repair.
It gives me gratification to be able to diagnose this kind of thing quick...
Simple fix when you find the problem. It's good to go.
It really is simple when you don't have to tear apart half the machine to fix a simple issue
Good Job. I would like to ask a question of the group. Past winter running the same snow blower. Ran good for 3/4 hour then died. Put into the garage and it leaked the rest of the gas out of the tank. Just got around to looking at it and refilled the tank. No leaks from the carb or hoses now! But it still won't start. Any ideas anyone?
I have a question about the needle under the float, this needle part had a wire guide (?) connected to it. I didn't know where/what/how it connected. I would get the float and spring installed, bolt the float housing down. Air wouldn't go through either way. I thought maybe the wire guide was working too well (?) and not letting air through. I took it off the needle re-installed and it seems to have started and stayed running without it. My question is, is that wire really necessary on the needle, is it on other carb needles? Thank you and great video.
Lael Hall
The wire I believe you are referring to hooks under the tab on the center of the float and clips over the top of the needle. Might not be self explanatory but I really don’t have a picture to illustrate that
Excellent video! Very helpful. My Craftsman carb looks very similar to yours. Is there anything you would do to adjust the main jet meter (what you screwed into the carb bowl) in order to make adjustments to the engine running rich/lean? Like, turn it 1.5 turns out from the seat? I also noticed we both don't have an idle meter in our carbs, so it doesn't look like you could even make that adjustment either.
Tim Mullee I don't believe there are any adjustments on these carbs
I have one that looks just like this. Toro CCR 1000E. This video was very helpful, but I finally opted to buy a new after market carburetor because my float had a hole in it and rebuild kit was about the same price as a new carburetor on eBay. While I agree that it does not have a in-line fuel filter, it does have a very nice filter in the tank. In my opinion much of the grit and dirt entered through the carburetor breather which is unprotected. (at least on mine.) Do you agree or disagree? I have plans to buy a piece of breather foam and cut it to fit snugly in breather hole. Do like this idea? Why or why not? Thanks again for great video. Oh, and nice work bench. I told my brother you must have concrete blocks in side it to keep it from tipping.
+BitsOfTruth Any debris in the carburetor float bowl can only come from the fuel system. Whether it came from the tank or the terrible ethanol fuel, it didn't come from the body of the carb where the air enters. A filter couldn't hurt and I've never understood why they don't put one on. I suppose they figure that in the winter the conditions for snow blowing are not dusty :) Funny how sometimes the repair parts can exceed the cost of a complete carburetor but that's the way it goes sometimes. Good luck with your repairs!
+Velvethamma I thought about it after I had written it. That air should only be going straight into the engine. They are sure wrong. After I used it, It was very dirty. I have been told that even individual snow flakes start with dust particles. Price of overhaul kit about $14.xx and whole carburetor about $17.xx. By the way, it does run and work very well. I will post a video. Thanks Much.
Thank you very much for that information. I don't know if you got my text the other way or not. On both the new and old carburetor there is three places to connect hoses the primer, fuel line, and a real small one next to the fuel line. I'm leaking gas out of the small one. I picked this blower up used and there was a small hose on it ( the small the small connector, the hose was blocked at one end. Should I just leave that small connector with the hose that is blocked off , on it. Or is there a place that that connects too?
I wonder if the small one is a bowl vent. Either way sounds like the bowl is overfilling and causing a leak
@@Velvethamma thank you very much for all the information. I have subscribed to your channel and will follow you closely. Thanks again, have a great day and keep your videos going
thumbs up
Thanks
Ready for snow now.
I hope so, It belongs to a person whom I don't believe is very mechanically inclined. I'd like to have one of them but most of the ones you see around here are beat to hell
Velvethamma... I have a Toro CCR1000E I got it running about 2 months ago. Now it doesnt want to start and gas leaks out of the carburetor. when I prime it I can see the carburetor fill with gas through the front open of the carburetor. Does it need a good cleaning or a repair kit?
dave rig if fuel is leaking out of the carb constantly then the float needle is defective or the float is defective. Might have dirt in the float needle preventing it from shutting fuel off when bowl gets full. Open it up and check it out. If float is full of gas then it's your culprit. Turn carb upside down with the weight of the float closing the needle. Blow with your mouth through the fuel inlet and see if needle is sealing. If not then replace it
Allen key to loose carb what size
The part I wanted to see was how the vane assy attaches to the link governor. I am restoring a model 38195 and when I pulled the carb off the vane assy came with it. not sure how to reinstall it. I inserted the vane via a shaft right in to a hole in the engine casing but no matter how I position the link the vane rubs against the inside of the pull start housing. Any ideas?
John Jaconsky Sounds like the governor but I can't tell you how it goes. Sorry
Thank you for the great video. I have had trouble with the carb leaking and rebuilt it with a new float, seat, needle, gasket ect and followed your video to ever detail. As soon as I hooked the fuel line back up...it immediately started leaking from the bowl again. It is literally driving me nuts. Any suggestions b4 i throw this thing in the trash.
It is the exact same model as the one in this video. Everything is the same.
bdgrd4u Is it leaking from the bottom of the bowl by the nut, or from the bowl vent. If it's leaking from the bottom, I would be suspicious of a bad bowl gasket, pinched gasket, wrong gasket... you get the idea. If it's leaking out of the top (above bowl gasket) then the needle is not seating and allowing the bowl to overfill. Possible problems are needle fell off the float during assembly, dirt not allowing it to seat, improper float or float height. I always test my carbs to see if the needle will shut off the inlet if I change them. To do this, assemble needle on float attached to pivot and before you put the bowl on, turn it upside down and try to blow thru the fuel inlet with your mouth. If you can blow by the needle with the float touching it (gravity pressing it down), then you have something wrong or a bad needle and seat setup. Some of those have a nylon or rubber seat and a metal needle, others have a neoprene tipped needle and brass or steel seat. Not usually metal on metal for the sealing surface. Carbs like this are very simplistic in design so it's likely to be something simple. Be patient and give it another go around and see if anything was overlooked. Make sure all gasket surfaces for sealing are completely clean of any deposits or you may get a leak that way. Good luck!
Velvethamma The linkage fell off the plastic part under the cover and I cannot for the life of me figure how it goes back on
bill fronk Governor linkage connects on the throttle of the carb and to the governor arm on the engine. Can be a bit tricky to put back together. Kind of a twisting maneuver of sorts
Velvethamma yes it is , not sure what end goes where , its has two different ends on the linkage ?
I have toro ccr snowblower the trouble is that the machine cold it start but when it is run abut 15 minuter or more the machine get hot it can not start, what is the trouble , can any one help me?
Numbers side does NOT go down into the bore.........the needle seat / white rubber ring.
So I have a Toro Powerlite, which has the same engine as this one. I started it up today with new fuel. It started within 3 pulls. After that, I hung it on the wall and noticed a strong smell of gas after a few minutes. After setting it down, I found out that gas leaked out of the carb, and pooled at the bottom of the snow blower. I cleaned the carb because I thought the float was stuck, but it didn't help. Could it be the gasket like you thought might leak? Seemed fine when I took it off but it didn't fit back in easily.
ChicagoSirens Good chance the gasket was swollen up. I also would not hang it on the wall unless there's no fuel in it.
Velvethamma What brand of 2 cycle oil do your recommend running in these?
ChicagoSirens I use Stihl 2 cycle oil in my commercial equipment and also Opti 2 cycle oil. Not a big fan of the box store brands. They seem to make a lot more smoke than the ones I am currently using
Velvethamma I've been wanting to use Opti-2 as well. Do you mix it at 70:1 or something else?
ChicagoSirens I believe opti-2 is a 50:1 ratio just like many other 2 cycle oils. Most all equipment I see requires 50:1 but always follow the manual required ratio for your equipment
I got a Toro 2400 E and I cleaned out the carb and it has a new spark plug. When it runs the idle climbs really high, Is this normal? How high should the idle be?
If the idle starts low and continues to climb high, there is an air leak or it's starting to starve for fuel. Idle should not fluctuate much. Something may still be stuck in the primary circuit (idle) side of the carburetor. Don't know for sure what rpm they should be set at but most are governed by engine rpm. Did you forget to put the governor spring back in the proper spot when you removed and installed the carb? A broken governor spring may cause erratic problems for sure
What could be the problem with a brand new carburetor on a Toro crr ccr1000 3 horsepower snowblower I put a new carb on it and it's just flooding and actually blowing fuel out the exhaust if you can help me I really appreciate it
Carburetor float not shutting fuel off once bowl is full. Maybe a speck of dirt stuck under float needle? OEM carb or cheap online replacement? Take carb off and clean. After cleaning turn upside down with float bowl side pointing up to sky and try to blow through fuel inlet with your mouth. If you can hear air leaking, the float needle isn’t sealing
@@Velvethamma thank you very much for that information, I will try that tomorrow. Also I have on the old and new carburetor I have three nipples for hoses to attach to but only two hoses the fuel line and the primer line. Should I just block the third one off,?
am sick of those things been turning um down lol NOooo only two cause I was busy they charge 85 dollars here for that !!! I do it on location for 40 ! Got a box of parts I carry with me 25 min and Im out ,,,of course your generous how to was excellent at 43 min would of takin me for eva !!
Shops round here get 70 an hour. If I would have bought a kit for that, they would have probably had 100 to 125 in the job at the tractor place. I charge 50 an hour mechanical so they got off cheap... plus it was less than an hour for me so I got lucky on this one, lol
Srvjediknight SR
let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.......tony
Yes sir!
Recently my blower would not start. I took off the float bowl and it looked clean. I was told sometimes the pin just sticks and put it back together. I did so and it ran again, but it sounded like the RPM's were high. Now after using it a few times, it starts, runs high and then stops - it won't stay running. Any ideas??
Not getting fuel... Either the float needle is sticking, float is bad, or something is intermittently getting in the main fuel jet that's causing an issue starving it for fuel. Also, a fuel cap that doesn't vent properly will give similar problems
you need a little magnetic bowl for your parts. you make me nervous lol
When I saw you pushing the primer over and over I cringed. I found out (the hard way) that Toro snowblowers with the Briggs and Stratton engines need ONE or at most TWO pushes of the primer button. Any more and you will flood it.
Can u increase the idle/speed?
These engines are governed to run wide open all the time. So there is no low idle adjustment per se.
You might be able to tweak the wide open speed a little bit but I wouldn’t get carried away.
@@Velvethamma
Thanks, put a rebuilt carb on, primed x4, 2nd pull.👍
When i pulled the float bowl off a small o-ring was in the bowl. Can you tell me where that goes?
Not sure why there would be a small o-ring in the bowl. The only one I can think of is the bowl gasket o-ring which is fairly large. I'd have to see the carb to make an educated guess. Not every unit uses the exact same carb unfortunately
Thanks for the reply! It was the small o-ring that went up into the carb inlet. I looked at a diagram and it must have stuck to the bowl nut because the fuel was so bad. I put back in and will fire back up tomorrow. Thanks for the good video!
stephen west Didn't even think about the bowl nut having an o-ring. Usually it's a copper or fiber flat washer that provides the seal on that. Glad you got it sorted
***** No removable emulsion tube in this carb
Neither. Tecumseh 2-stroke, not a 4-stroke with valves
Not well prepared, shouldn't use brake clean except on metal surfaces, soak bowl and jet while disassembling, pulling carb would've saved sometime.
What the hell is was two more pumps on the prime Nobody Does that with a Toro Toro only requires two pumps.