Insulation Options For Your Barndominium | Full Price Breakdown + Comparison
Вставка
- Опубліковано 25 чер 2024
- During this episode Paul + Emily discuss various barndominium insulation options. They breakdown each type and also provide an in-depth price comparison of each option. In this video they cover closed cell spray foam, Rockwool, Siga Majrex, fiberglass batt, and polystyrene or pink board.
More Information + Hybrid Insulation Document
mrpostframe.com/what-caused-t...
Spray Jones For In Depth Spray Foam @SprayJones
RR Buildings - Rockwool + Siga Majrex Video
• Building The BEST Hous...
0:00 Intro
1:17 Our Experience
5:21 Fiberglass Batt
7:54 Rockwool + SIGA Majrex
11:00 Spray Foam
17:14 Polystyrene
20:29 Cost Comparison
22:39 Ranking
Thanks for watching! Subscribe, Like, + Share if you enjoyed this video!
Search Our Website By Project or Room
MRPostFrame.com
Amazon Store | Project Tools Listed by Category
www.amazon.com/shop/marshallremodel
Finishes, Fixtures, Decor, + More
www.shopltk.com/explore/MRPos...
Daily Updates
linktr.ee/mrpostframe
Mad County Build Series 150+ Videos
• Mad County Build
Thanks for stopping by our channel! We are self building our family of 5 a post frame barndominium in Iowa along with the life we’ve always dreamed of.
The goal of our channel is to inspire others to build their dream by providing education on construction and an in depth look at how we’ve gotten to this place.
Email:
Info@mrpostframe.com
Mailing:
PO Box 11
Winterset, IA 50273
#postframe #barndominium #insulation #selfbuild - Навчання та стиль
Paul and Emily.. I have a whole new level of respect for you both. It’s one thing to display your accomplishments on UA-cam with thousands of viewers. But it’s another to post the pitfalls and adversity you’ve come across along the way. That’s how we learn, and I am grateful for you sharing the entire story.
Just want to help as many people as possible. Honesty and transparency is our goal.
@@MrPostFrame #4 board polystyrene insulation best,
if you need to increase fire safety, just stick on top of it PIR
or plaster it
@@MrPostFrame
ua-cam.com/video/PZ_O43rXS_Q/v-deo.html
@@MrPostFrame
ua-cam.com/video/7C_ED3NDJLQ/v-deo.html
Great break down! Thanks for taking the time to share your trade with everyone. I really enjoy your videos.
Glad to see you and your family make it through the moisture issues, was very heartbreaking to see, but you're really saving a lot of others by sharing that experience.
Thank you for making this video it has given me excellent information because I have seen a build of BM and I hadn’t heard about it but I like it much better than a conventional model I’m a recycled seasoned teenager of 76 and I’m looking forward to trying to live in a home made this way the first time seen one was here in Michigan but it has given me a great insight of wanting a new home made by this process thank you for giving such great information.
Brilliant episode! This stuff is a brain strain- you did a great job of explaining.
Thank you for the openness of what happened to you, and your expertise. 🙏👍
I love that material too, i've used it a lot in my house, when installed properly its the best insulation and i'm glad to see your going to cover it up with sheet metal because that will give you some fire protection and allow you to hang stuff off the walls. great job
Thanks for the break down of cost. Great job
Hey Paul, really enjoyed the video and the information that you share. I also follow Kyle, but one thing I really like about your videos is how you have really explained the ins and outs of the entire process, along with pricing. I know this takes a lot of personal time for your team to compile and do, so just know we appreciate that. I would be interested in learning about the attic/conditioning if and/or when you decide to share that information. Also, noticed the new apparel and was wondering if you will start selling those? Keep up the great videos.
Great information! I love your home. As a homeowner with very high ceilings I can tell you from experience you are going to have fun window cleaning!
I've watched your channel for awhile, really the whole thing from start to now and that particular insulation install and issues you had. So glad you did this video and shared on Pole Barn home builds with insulation and the right way to do it. We did insulation about 10 years ago in our stick built home and loved it! It was an older leaky home and I was concerned with the spray foam until I saw it go up and the results that first cold , cold winter day. Spray foam was relatively new at the time and I just wondered about it. We actually almost built a pole Barn home a few years ago and decided not to because of cost for us.. I know we most likely would have had similar issues, but you have really been great at educating people on this. You had an issue no one would have, could have thought of, and it just helps people who built Pole Barn homes and what one needs to think about not cutting corners with any insulation job on any build. Thanks for being a Great Contractor, Builder and teacher as well!
Thanks we love helping and educating people.
Really valuable, useful, and actionable information. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and thank you for your integrity. Both are VERY much appreciated.
Thanks for all the great information! Working on building my first semi-tiny home and this really helps... 😊👍
Some of my best learning lessons were also my most expensive. I appreciate your candidness on your mistakes.
Thanks for watching!
Very informative! Thanks for sharing! 👌👍
What an awesome video. Thank you for all the information.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this ! Amazing and educate
Really good information! I would really enjoy and appreciate a video on the actual wall system construction. I am in the process of designing my own Post Frame building to be used as living space and shop. I am in E Texas so my weather extremes are not what yours are. The wall system is quite a lot to plan, but this video helped.
Thank you for going through the insulation options & price. ( I'm sure price is always #1 question U receive) This something I remember you had mentioned briefly in past video. Gald you stuck with it to hold accountability & found correct information. This was a very good video one of great value to all....
Thanks for watching!
Spray Jones just insulated my garage. Great guys to deal with!
Love Spray Jones!!
Really enjoyed this video. There is so much varying opinions on insulation that it can get confusing. I’ve been scared of flash and batt ever since I watched your personal build series.
Thanks
Goid stuff here. I am learning a ton. The flaw that I see from your hybrid system, if I listened correctly, was the double vapor barrier on the exterior wall. Because the closed cell created the vapor barrier on the exterior and the 6 mil was applied interior, it didn't allow for the cavity to breathe. The batt became the sponge in the dew point zone and it just went down hill from there. I love the idea of CCSF from the application and function stand points. The problem is being of the interior vapor land you have to switch your mindset and knowledge to how it's done down south. Thank you tor sharing your knowledge and experience. I will definitely be watching you guys more.
Sorry I wasn't clear. The original problem was the thickness of the CCSF. The spray foamer we used didn't evenly distribute the foam. There were areas where it wasn't even an 1" thick. Which didn't give us the exterior vapor barrier and caused areas of frost build up. We now do 3" of closed cell on all our builds.
Another well done video
Thanks
Love ur video's and am looking to build in a yr or two HOPEFULLY lol. Been watching u build ur home and enjoy the diy aspect u do. For the Jack of all trades ppl out there, just wanted to say thank you sir and keep up the great work u do. Keep living the dream good sir
Your welcome, thanks for watching and the comment.
Excellent video
Thank you for this video
I have a 36x48 post frame I put up last year, and when doing so I made sure to have house wrap put on it anticipating spray foam. I didn't want the foam adhering directly to the steel for future panel replacement issues, etc. Anyway, I got around to pricing spray foam, and 3" is coming in at $11,900 (walls only). To get a comparison, I decided to look into a DIY version of flash and bat: 1.5" pink foam all around (including behind the posts because it's the same thickness as the girts) and R19 of post-frame specific fiberglass bats that come with a plastic face. This combination will get me R26.5, and cost me a couple dollars short of $5,000. No, this doesn't account for cans of foam to seal the panels together, but at almost $7,000 in savings, I think I can more than cover that expense and still come out ahead.
I love the idea of spray foam, but it has absolutely turned into a racket. They are charging whatever they want and getting away with it, part of the current building craze were people are just going insane and paying anything in the process. I will look into the installation spec you mentioned about making sure the vapor barriers are in the right location and all that, but so far I just can't see any justifiable reason to tell people to go with spray foam. If you put your panels together with canned foam and tape those joints, you're going to end up with the same sealing effect you would get with spray. Sure, it will take a little more effort to make sure you're doing it right, but again... At $7,000 savings, there's a lot of incentive to take your time and mind the details.
Your mileage may vary, but I certainly don't think this option should end up at the bottom of the list.
The half life of the r value alone on spray foam proves it's a bullshit product. It's r value has such a short life!
Agree 100%.
4" thick 4x8 R20 is 82 bucks a sheet. Thats 2.56 pr sqft. Half of what spray foam would cost and as you mentioned, once that stuff is sprayed it's damn near permanent. Get that canned stuff on your hands and it's there for a week.
I'm building a 1800sqft shop in side one of my pole barns and I've decided to use 10m poly on the ceiling and walls. Walls are getting 3" thick foam, ceiling will be blown in. The building was built in the late 70s and will be a shop. I am comfortable working in 60* no problem however what heat or ac I do put into it I would like to keep in. 1/2" osb throughout the inside.
Still need to figure out where my poly needs to go on walls. Thinking right over purlons and posts then put the foam board in. All electrical and air will be in conduit on outside of wall/ceiling.
Glad you mentioned one product per cavity I got 3” pink board and was going to top it with r15 rockwool for r 30 In Cathedral ceilings. I have surplus for free so need to find uses for it likely encapsulated crawl. I'm in zone 3 might not effect due point like it did you.
Sorry to hear of your leak. I like the use of a liquid applied membrane, such as Prosoco Cat 5 on the outside so you would need a plywood type material on the outside of your lumber and is now considered the Inside of the house. After applying the membrane then you can put your Rockwool on top/outside of that so it all butts together making no thermal bridging and can be on roof and walls continuous. Your metal goes on top of the Rockwool and you end up with two layers of drainage, the metal and membrane. If you left your wall open in the "Perfect Wall" type house you would see if any leaks are coming in and very near the source. You can investigate by not having to rip things but instead unscrew your metal on the outside. Any leakage also can dry from the inside and outside.
Paul, you've done it now! Nothing short of a collab blog will suffice! I think Kyle would be u[p for it, too boot! You might get a traditional builder like Matt Reisinger- who also knows Kyle, to for a little "not post frame" take. Something done with an online presence over, rather than live , all in one place. This was a great presentation- the cost per square foot will vary with the zone, but that is an easy plug in to fix. Thanks to Emily, who I believe keeps your office from flying away on a sea of flapping papers! FR
Paul - I appreciate your latest video of costs breakdowns to the general public on insulation. Watching your project unfold as you discovered these problems was rather frustrating to watch. We have been advocating for many years on how to select a contractor with proper credentials, knowledge and experience in the insulation industry. A good reference for people looking to have spray foam installed is thru the SPFA, where Master Certified spray foam insulation installers can be searched for by state. Another subject that I feel needs more attention would be energy savings comparisons of traditional fibrous compared to spray foam. Thanks for making these videos.
Thank you for your input!
Great breakdown of options. I agree with you that closed cell spray foam is worth the extra cost and it has so many advantages, like keeping insects out, sealing out air infiltration, increased structural, and the labor is included. Also, since you have a tight structure, your utility cost will be much less. Using fiberglass is a terrible option, as air infiltration is a real problem, which has a huge cost in the size and use of your HVAC system. I think if you take into account the HVAC savings, that spray foam is very competitive. It's better to spend more up front and save for many years to come.
Definitely
Another great video with loads of information! Can’t wait to start our build as soon as we can get the plans :) chomping at the bit, had geotechnical engineer company out at the property just yesterday. They took soil samples from four locations, so we are waiting on those results right now as well. Want to build it right from the ground up! A shout out to Hinderliter Geotechnical Engineering in Oklahoma, if you need residential work done they were very nice to work with, over the phone and in person. They even gave me some core samples to keep and display. Oh and if you are wondering why we had it done, we moved a lot of dirt and got very mixed answers about the soil and cracking foundations so we just decided to go to the professionals.
Yes, foundation is critical. Especially if you’re building on loose soil that hasn’t compacted over time. Let us know when you start building.
@@MrPostFrame You will surely know, we are still eagerly awaiting the plans from your design team. I will also share the ground test results with you as soon as I receive them. Cheers to you and the family from Daryl and I :)
Excellent video! You can definitely tell that you and Emily really care about your viewers, to take the time to do this. This was very helpful. Kyles video on the Rockwool/Majrex was good too. I have concerns about spray foam because there are so many people out there doing it that really don't know what they are doing. Also I worry about the VOC off gassing which I understand can occur for a couple of years. Was wondering if you could comment a little more on exactly what caused the problem in your house. Was it a bad spray foam job, or was it the addition of the batts or both?
Started with a horrible spray foam job that didn’t even provide a vapor barrier in some areas. Then the batt insulation soaked up the water.
Again if done right I have no fears of this happening again. I wouldn’t do it for customers if I didn’t believe in it.
I’ll do it in our next house if there is a next.
I've got a 32x56 barndominim bubble wrapped then on the inside of the girts is 2 inch's of xps foam board then an r23 mineral wool. Then I built a 2x4 wall inside of the post 1.5 inch's and filled the studs with r15. My crawlspace is conditioned with the same insulation in the walls and r10 across the concrete floor in the crawlspace. Attic is a traditional vented attic. I have 16 inch heel trusses with 20 inch's of blown cellouse on the attic floor. It's not quite finished yet but I have high hopes on the efficiency of the house. Dual fuel heat pump with back up gas furnace that's located in the conditioned crawlspace. Hrv fresh air system ducted into the furnace
You are, one of the best there is.
Thanks!
Great Video. I for one would like to see the ceiling brake down an install options.
I second this request. Also, to help understand how to figure roof sq ft. Thanks!
Great video Thankyou
Glad you enjoyed it
@@MrPostFrame what insulation would you recommend above a single story living space ceiling? I’m using blown insulation above garage. Thank you
Any comparison to hemp insulation would be great. Thanks
Great info. I wasn't able to get the Hybrid Insulation document link to work
Sorry, we've updated the blog with the correct link. I've included below. Thanks for letting us know.
c530eae7-3429-4c19-b9ab-6451ae428345.usrfiles.com/ugd/c530ea_211f3bee6ed74eb4ab0a2a8b7411c092.pdf
Very good information Paul, should help with spray foam decision, thanks.
You bet
Top notch power couple ❤!
Thank you!
Paul did you spray foam your roof? if you used blown in how did you do that? if there is no deck or something to walk on how did you accomplish that? Also what would be your thoughts on putting up some foam board strips over the exterior side of your posts before putting up your girts?
Great video, what would you recommend for a 1975 concrete basement in zone 5. Cant afford spray foam so thinking 2" xps foam board with 2x4 wall filled with r15 mineral wool without a vapour barrier.
a big benefit you didnt cover enough with closed cell spray foam is the air tightness its going to give you. That is going to translate into a major reduction in air leakiness and therefore heating/cooling costs for the lifetime of the structure. Air tightness regulations are increasing in building codes as regulators require tighter and tighter homes as a part of energy reduction. Lots of areas are bringing in mandatory blower door tests to make sure you pass those benchmarks. In standard house construction, best air tightness is being done with the sheathing and seam taping (zip system, etc) but on a post frame house without sheathing, that is not an option. so the spray foam is really the only way to get a super tight house IMO.
Check out Aerobarrier…..
What if I was to zipsheet the outside, and then use 1.5" poly sheets between girts, and then Rockwool for the 6" between posts?
I’m not sure if the prices in spray foam is just going high but it isn’t like that by me. A guy down the road just did a video about spray foam and for his shop of 34x40 was given a quote of $10,000 for 2” thick. He went and bought 3” thick of the pink sheets with r15 and the cans and tape to seal and came up less then $2500 for more r value. Yes a lot more work to do but not just a little less
Depending on the climate. You need a minimum of 2" to prevent condensation on the wall that is facing inside the building.
Hey Paul, Great video, very informative and it was just what I was looking for as I plan my future house. One question I have is about sound, does spray foam echo more than the rock wool or fiberglass? Keep up the good work, I watch all your videos (and Kyle's too).
Rockwool will be a better sound absorber. However I don’t feel like it’s an issue in our house with spray foam.
What about spray foam on the roof? It’s a growing trend not to spray directly on metal roof panels. What’s your suggestion?
Far better that you encountered the condensation issue on your own home first rather than a client's.
Couldn't you use house wrap in place of the Siga Majrex?
Have you ever used Prodex for insulation?
It’s funny combination when he talks and she smiles , like a lot is left behind
My question is, when the spray foam is done, do you just add your drywall or do you need the plastic wrap B4 drywall?
can you address the sweating issue? many builders here in oklahoma recommend double bubble insulation. Can foam be sprayed directly on the back of the exterior steel? if open cell is used where does the air barrier go and what barrier? Tyvek? Thank you! @MrPostFrame
I think that one of the things just touched on is climate zone. If you're building in the south, the vapor barrier should be on the outside, which actually favors a post frame with barrier sheathing that is taped. In fact, it's the only way to go. Then insulation options are wide open, but you must have a continuous exterior barrier. You can even blow your walls with cellulose or fiberglass with the interior fabric under the girts. As you noted, highly zone dependant, and it just happens that you and Kyle are in northern heating climates.
I wish you would have shared the R-value difference between the four products you Illustrated
👍 great video
He said he was comparing same or similar R value in each product for the wall assembly.
@@sheldondaigh8123 👍thanks....guess I missed it
Great video Paul. How did you fix your problem? Did you have to remove all the sheet rock? Would love to here the options for a conditioned attic space.
Thanks for sharing
Yes removed all the sheet rock and batt insulation. Then added more closed cell spray foam since that was the root of the problem.
The most frustrating thing about these videos in general ( not your guys fault) is all these really great you tube channels you and RR building etc... Build in these north/ colder climates and it's completely different here in Florida. It's definitely good to know about the options but I don't know what's going to work here in Florida.. Regardless great video and very informative!
The one thing I'll never understand about this build, considering all the effort you put in, is how there was no substantial framing or sheathing between the cold metal exterior siding and the spray foam. You house wrapped the post frame, then sprayed foam directly on the house wrap, which was equivalent to spraying foam on nothing more than a flexible sheet pulled taut between widely spaced columns. The spray foam is attached to nothing but itself over so much area, no structural integrity, it's going to move and flex and crack and fall apart and let air and moisture in. I'll never understand why you did it that way when you put so much effort and detail into everything else. And please don't take this as negativity or armchair criticism. It's a genuine question. I really enjoy your channel and learned so much. Watched every episode!
The house wrap is on the outside of the frame, so the spray adheres to both the 6x8 posts and the 2x6 girts along the whole house as well as the wrap.
Love your videos arkansas
Thanks
Great Video! One question: I have been told that you should use a tyvek type product on the exterior walls when using metal siding if you are going to spray foam to aid in siding removal in the event that you may need to remove any metal at a later time?
Yes, that’s just one reason why I like using house wrap.
Hey Paul, quick question. My wife and I are doing a barndo in Central Florida between Lakeland and Orlando. General Steel is the one that will be providing our structure. They gave me a document for arguing against spray foam on barndos. I am a huge fan of spray foam though. I can send it to you if you like so you can look at it. What is your opinion of doing closed cell on the exterior walls and then R38 batting for the roof? Have you heard of anyone doing that before or just do the entire thing in closed cell spray foam? Thanks!
How did you steel look on the outside when coated? My steel ribs are about 12" on center. Past steel pushed out in the middle of the rib. My add on they house wrapped it. not sure what will happen this time when its foamed
I’m from Cedar Rapids and truly believe that I would have lost my building from the derecho if it had not been spray foamed!
Definitely adds strength
I made the exact same mistake with my spray foam I have an area behind my electrical panel and boiler that the spray foam is 1.5 -2 inches and has fiberglass Batts ovet top of that. I am unable to address it easily becaue the service entrance and utilities are on both sides of that wall. I am hoping that it is not going to be a problem. It did have some moisture form in the bats when the building was at 80% humidity while doing floor polishing and the temperature was below 0 and very windy. The supper fine snow and high winds showed every leak in the building and high humidity cause condensation in those closed areas but seemed to go away once the humidity was reduced.
How loud is it when it is pouring down outside? I was told that closed cell is good for structure rigidity/water resistant but noisy verses the open cell foam quieter but soaks up any water leaks. What is your thought of doing 2" closed cell and then either some open cell on top or 3.5" of rockwool in the 2x6 wall. Climate zone 3 is where I am building.
What about blown in BIBs? I’m prob going to do rockwool just to save some money over spray foam. I’m getting quotes closer to $5per ft
Do you have a video on determining depth of columns giving consideration to frost depth?
We don’t put any posts in the ground. We do concrete piers and then wet set brackets.
Very informative. How about using structural insulated panels (SIP)? I'm building a geodesic dome home and had one spray foam company about five years ago come over to give me a bid and they quoited me 135k. I didn't do the price per square foot breakdown but knew that it was way more than I was willing to spend. It was also very discouraging getting a price quoit like that. They said that the price was $3.50 per square foot for two and a half inches thick but I'm pretty sure the guy just tossed out a very high number and didn't use the $3.50 per square foot price. Most of the outside of my house is wrapped with Ice and Water Shield. I live in WA in zone 3 (the yellow zone on that map you shared in this video). I'm now thinking of using Rockwool after I saw RR Buildings video. I'm thinking of getting some more estimates in terms of a price based on square foot and see what they charge now. Question: The exterior of my house is mostly wrapped with ice and water shield. If I use spray foam, will the roof sheathing rot due to trapped moisture between the ice and water shield and spray foam from the changing seasons where it freezes in the winter and is warm in the summer? Also, I've heard that SIP's have an issue with that as well when you use ice and water shield.
As always thanks for the great content. How would you go about running your water supply lines under a concrete slab if a client did not want in floor heat, wouldn't that cause the water lines to freeze, i am assuming the only reason you would be able to run them under the slab is due to the in floor heat??
I would still run them under the slab. They will not freeze under the slab. I’d love to do a thermometer test at some point to show this. Plumbing is added under the slab with out radiant heat all over the country.
How would you super-insulate? Meaning at least R40 walls and R90 ceiling.
Could you not just used 2 inches closed cell and do the rest open cell? Im about to do a high cube shipping container and the r value is suppose to be R38 for the ceiling and R19 for under the container which is about 7 inches (ceiling) and 3 inches (under belly). Any recommendations?
This is my personal opinion, but it is expensive, but I recommend the external insulation method. Please consider Mr. Paul.
What specific product are you using or looking to use?
Spray Jones is an awesome channel. Sorry you went through all of this. I can't imagine how stressful it was.
Thank you. We see it as a good thing because we’ve been able to help hundreds of others in the same situation
Him going through this lead me to Spray Jones, I rabidly consumed all of his videos. I'm currently torn between ICF and Frame, but if I go Frame I am definitely using Spray Foam
12:35 did I misunderstand but didn't the spray foam cause the moisture issues in beginning of video ? Or was that because it was used with insulation?
zone 4 middle TN Barndo build Entire exterior metal including zip with zip system OSB. They apply reflective bubble on the roof here. Do I spray foam or Rockwool? What is my best bet for this zone and this combo? Do I pink foam under slab in this region?
I watch RR buildings too
Kyle does a great job!
how about hempcrete for insulation?
Hey Paul, i bought a kit from World wide steel buildings, the engineered plans called for a complete envelope of 1” foam board to attach to the exterior of my girts, then used 2” roofing screws to attach the metal panels over the foamboard to the girts. So that provided a good thermal break to my steel structure, then i followed up with 3.5” of open cell to the cavity to completely air seal. Kind of a hybrid system not sure what the actual Rvalue achieved is but it was definitely different.
That is different…where are you located?
We are buying the kit from the same company, it's in the process of engineering now. Building in Missouri. Trying to do all the homework now, so no time is wasted when the building is up. How is the insulation working so far?
Just found out if I want any heat in the shop/garage I’m trying to build I have to encapsulate it with an R5 continuous envelope like you did. Then fill all cavities with R20. Wasn’t expecting to hear that when I met with the county!
Can anyone guide me how to insulate 40x60x16 metal roof and walls for moisture control . Please
4" thick, 4x8 R20 is 82 bucks a sheet. That's 2.56 pr sqft. Way way cheaper than spray foam. I'll never use spray foam. If for some reason you have issues with it you can't just take it out. Total demo. Yes it's a great sealer and what not but I'm just not a fan. Imo.
10mil poly and foam board that's been sealed at all joints, taped etc, is the way to go for a DIY.
Glad you caught your moisture issue. Mold was right around the corner.
What’s the long term maintainability with spray foam? Like if you have an issue in a wall with plumbing or electrical, how easy is it to get in there and then re-seal the spray foam?
this, spray foam is going to be issues when things leak or need to be fixed...
Do you have the video of the issues that you ran into with the spray foam so we can look out for that?
Yes this is one of them ua-cam.com/video/-l75UJsMd1Q/v-deo.html
Yes this is it! ua-cam.com/video/-l75UJsMd1Q/v-deo.html
It would be great if you had dug into mold and moisture issues. Data coming from non-spray-foam-biased sources seem to indicate that closed cell spray foam has a propensity for mold. Also, if there is a moisture problem, its likely you wouldn't see. That's one of my main concerns, as my family has been rocked by mold health issues.
We see you love spray foam but what happens when you need to replace a section of metal roofing or siding due to damage repair.
Do you build steel frame bondominiums and also if you do can you do all the things as you would in a post frame like the radiant heat concrete, and spray foam for installation of the walls
Our company just does post frame
Are you permitted to building Delaware
Did you use a vapor barrier on the original install. Thanks
No, spray foam was supposed to be the vapor barrier, but first application didn't get a consistent thickness so there were some bare areas.
Do you spray foam the roof or insulate on the ceiling?
Depends on the budget. Most of our clients have blown in fiberglass for the attic space. But if you can spray foam on the roof is great
Any thoughts on blown in wall insulation?
Feel that it settles over time so lots of loss of R value at top of walls.
if you think of best insulation value spray foam is the best if you think about everything else spray foam sucks, if you ever have to add something to your house or remodel, just imagine what you gotta to to clear out the spray foam, plus the off gasing, want to run an extra wire to add a light fixture? good luck , someone screwed up the spraying, well youll be tearing half the house out to fix it
I see flash and bat all the time in Texas.
Really depends on climate. Will just run into issues during a polar vortex like we did all I’ve the country a few years ago.
Will I have a problem? I have property in building zone 5, I plan to build a post frame, I plan on 4.5" rigid polyiso board to the exterior of the sheathing and rock wool between the commercial style girts, I just learned today my vapor barrier has to be on the inside? Am I going to have a river of water falling between my foam and wool?
Vapor barrier on interior of wall in zone 5 is correct. My question is how much is it a square foot for the polyiso board and how much for the rock wool per square foot.
Polyiso is a closed cell material so at 4.5”so you should be getting a vapor barrier. it’s hard to say what would happen if you then add another insulation on top of this changing where the vapor barrier is located in the wall system.
I pay $4.50 sq/ft for 3”s of closed cell spray foam installed and that’s all that needs to be done and I can rest knowing there will be no problems. My guess is by the time you pay for both products and for install you are at least $4.50 a sq/ft.
@@MrPostFrame I agree. I might change my mind. Thank you.
In one phrase "SprayJones" in Canada. No spray and batt, no plastic, no 6 mil. Bob in Nevada
Would you still suggest spray foam in build area 7. Is there any known issues with the massive temp change in those areas?
I personally would use closed cell spray foam in any build zone with no worries.
Hi Paul. Up here by the Twin Cities. I would assume these prices are what it would cost in 2023? I just got a a quote for spray foam for our post frame build and it was double the cost since we built in 2019. Same down in Iowa (Heaven)? 😉
I built a garage in 2019 in Montana and my CCSF was $1.00 per board foot. Just finished up my shop and it was $1.80 per BF. Installer said material cost was 100% of the increase.
Yes 2023 pricing. Cost of material has increased and not come down like lumber has recently.
Dang, your prices are higher than what ive priced here in Oklahoma. Open cell here is $1.50 per sq ft, closed cell $2 per, & foamular 2" 4x8 R10 is $43
Haven’t compared your foam board price but the closed cell spray foam prices we listed are $1.50/sf per inch. We recommend 3” on the walls which would be $4.50/sf
Paul or anyone reading this, if anyone knowledgeable could answer that'd be great. I am in the research / land buying stage of building a home for my parents. We are obviously trying to get the most equity we can for our buck, and I'm somewhat handy, but not sure I'm willing at this time to do a majority of the project DIY.
There is a local company that builds buildings (shells). They do post frame for about $40/sq, and traditional framing with footer for about $80/sq. They typically do post frame for garages and workshops, and traditional framing with footer for homes. They say the post frame buildings will be cold around the edge of the slab because there is no footer. How is this typically dealt with for people building a post frame home?
Second question is: since I may want to hire out a lot of the job for time and quality sake, but still get a lot of bang for our buck, how would you recommend going about the whole process? Should we build post frame as owner/builder / gc the project ourselves, while subbing out the work? We'd love to have a some professional input in the design and planning aspect. I'd like to have a beautiful home in the end, and not something that looks like an amateur (i.e. me) designed and built the thing. I guess I'm just looking for a little guidance on how to properly lead this project, and how to find the right people in my area that I can hire to do a great job with their respective parts of the project.
If I knew someone like Paul or Kyle in my area to just hire to build the house - or to guide me in the process - I might just do that. (located about an hour from Wichita KS by the way, not in the KC area)
Thank you for your comment we’d love to help you. Can you email us info@mrpostframe.com and we will start connecting you with resources
We will save your comment so you don’t have to repeat all of that! Looking forward to helping you
I just watched your video on spray foam insulation. My shop is 24' X 80' wood frame, tin clad, essentially a polebarn in Northwest ND. I would have never been able to heat it or stay in business if it wasn't for closed cell spray foam. It's an auto repair shop so I do welding, grinding and other types of fire hazard work. A local roofing contractor said I couldn't weld here because my shop would burst into flames... I've never had a problem. I had a extra walk in door put in and took a propane torch to the wall cut out until the foam and wood were both in flames, as soon as I pulled the torch away the foam extinguished & the wood kept burning. As far as I'm concerned: flash point of foam
Thanks for sharing. People share this type of scenario all the time. Good to know.
After having a mice problem I would only use closed cell spray foam now