What height do you carry your pressure treated 3 ply 2x6 posts above grade? Looks like 6 ft... Why not only a couple feet above grade? It would be cheaper if they were 2 ft above grade vs 6
Hey chip, the bottom line is that it is difficult to build in our climate. We have cold winters and hot humid summers, so the question is where do we need to be putting our vapor barrier? I do know for a fact in a heated and cooled application the answer is not simply to put it on both sides of the home IE tyvek on outside Polly on inside, this is a perfect recipe for mold growth on exterior wall systems, I know this all to well one of my builder friends lost their business because of a class action lawsuit because he was building this way, now with all this said, what Kyle is doing here is slightly different than a typical house and I quite Frankly do not have all the information I need to say weather it’s right or wrong. Is this building going to be drywall’s? Is it going to be conditioned in the summer months? All of this has an effect on how you should build, I think our insulation practice is going to change drastically in our lifetime, I think we need to change our thinking on how we insulte and air seal, why are we putting our coats on the inside instead of the outside? Why are we not bringing air in on our own terms? And why are we still putting plastic on the inside of our walls lol. If anybody wants more questions answered I would UA-cam Matt Risinger, very smart man when it comes to building science
It seems that I watch this video maybe once every four months. The rise of smart personable contractors who can present well on social media is a wonderful thing to behold.. People who work in the building trades, the ones who take pride in their work and are serious about their craft are often overlooked in our tech obsessed culture, but make no mistake about it they contribute mightily to keeping our economy chugging along.
@@desolatesurfer8651 yeah he sure did use alot a big words there. Mustve gone to college. You know, pro tip, you can google anythimg you don't understand. that always helps me out when I come across a big word like "defenestrate" for instance
Air infiltration or lack of it ,actually,is more important than over insulating!old farm houses with lath and plaster,if given good airtight windows,DOES NOT HAVE a need to (expesively) have insulation blown into the walls like was a big deal 20 years ago..theres alot of r value in ancient solid 1x10s and (usually)cedar lap along with the lath and plaster.
I just finished a 30 year career in finance. But I think what I should’ve been doing is building. I find myself drawn to these videos to watch what the best guys in their fields do. I can’t say I ever watched a video on Finance that would be a real snooze fest for me. Keep up the good work and thanks for the great videos.
I've been renovating my own house (to the studs), gets really old fast given how long it takes to do everything. I feel like if you do a job full time it will ultimately just feel like work and you'll get tired of it. I'm a DevOps Engineer so my career is nothing like construction. Honestly, a lot of construction careers are easy mentally just require a ton of manual labor. Construction also isn't a guaranteed career field, such as in 2009 lots of contractors went out of business because there were too many houses and it didn't financially make sense to pay someone to fix up your house because you didn't get much return on it. Your body would likely not be very happy after a 30 year career in construction, be glad you had a desk job. lol
With this house, I finally became the owner of the house I always wanted to be in. The hospital elite package has 2 bonuses; the first is about the base and the roof, ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxS-P9OAq3v4HNpPFqYFWNEq9A-E_PbZIN the second is about the confidential staff who give advice and the advice that worked for me. Thank you very much
ALL of your videos help me out, not to mention my buddies who think they're too busy to sit and watch (do it wrong without watching the video, then watch the video, and go fix it later) AND YEAH, GREG: You are making some valuable contributions to a whole bunch of people, Bro!
Your doing all the right things. Here in Canada we can swing from -40C in winter to +40C in summer so insulation needs to meet the needs of heating and cooling. Recommended attic insulation is now R50. Too often, I see customer's attics that have been upgraded but failed to provide what you refer to as "attic air deflectors". There are a lot of different commercial deflectors available, but your use of left-over vapour barrier is a great idea. Proper roofing and insulation can only be achieved by a "complete roofing system".
I had to keep rewinding every 30 seconds because you were just blowing my mind with information. I've already been framing for over 3 years and this is a jackpot of information in 12 minutes. You definitely earned a subscriber I wish I could give you more
Short and sweet. Just the facts. Excellent video on insulating a pole building. I’ve been building houses for 30 years and found this very educational. Just did my first pole building and had no clue how to properly ventilate and insulate it. Metal is different than wood.
Old remodels where you tear the inside walls out to redo wiring and the original outside wall was shingles over shiplap. Spray foam is perfect there as it seals up all the cracks and knots.
Thanks for explaining both sides very good I'm a spray foam contractor I'm in New Brunswick Canada We spray 2" closed cell foam in walls and 4" directly onto the roofing deck this completes the building envelope zero condensation and blocks summer heat from getting in you get more ceiling height No need for venting as sprays foam blocks radiant heat venting a ceiling is only to let the built up heat (From radiant heat) to escape roofing last longer and foam makes you building 300% structural stronger I have a hard time convincing older house builders about longer heals on trusses and at least 2' on center Framing I get the same old saying that's not the way my grandfather did it Great explanation this is a smart builder thanks for sharing for the customers
Good video, you obviously put a lot of thought into your work. Your wall insulation package concerns me though. I have been insulating buildings, including pole barns in northeast Ohio for the past 15 years and experience has taught me to avoid double vapor barrier assemblies because they tend to trap condensation. You install nice fluffy fiberglass in wide open, 8’ wide cavities which means that you are going to have a lot of air movement in your walls due to convection no matter how well you air seal the outside of the building. That air movement will kill your r-value and increase the risk of condensation. Closed cell spray foam solves those issues and is worth the true cost of the upgrade. Your attic assembly is fine but take another look at the walls; I think that once you add up the cost of all the various steps you have to go through now you will find foam attractive. On a different note, you should add extruded polystyrene as perimeter insulation around your slab.
Kyle, just a tip... I've found that ANY synthetic ridge vent will deteriorate over several years due to heating and cooling of seasons. The temperature changes tend to break down the product leaving an open space for critters and weather to enter. I've discovered this 1st hand when I built my own home. After 12 years I began seeing bits of this product on the attic floor then noticing wasps and flies entering. Since then I've had to remove the ridge vents and caps and place 6" screening over the ridge gap, then replace the ridge vents and caps. Hopefully this tip will help readers so they don't have to find out the the hard way that "synthetics" DON'T WORK well, when exposed to swings in temperatures through seasons. It's soo much easier to take a little extra time by adding the screening (and it's cheap insurance) to do this while finishing the roof to not have to rip off and replace later. Remember manufactures warrant their product (mostly of 1 year) because they've already tested it and know exactly how long its good for. Oh! BTW I spent a little more when replacing that product with stainless steel screening, I hate having to do a job twice I only wish someone had told me this when I was doing the roof. Happy New Year!
If anything, its solar degradation that will cause most plastics to fail, if it is faded looking then its due to solar exposure, but yes metal or alloy lasts longer and looks more aesthetic in architectural terms than uPVC which can melt from even the slightest of enough heat while being more durable in the sun than Vinyl which also melts in heat.
Great tip! Wish I would have done that myself on my recent garage, but will remember when the house roof needs replacing (which just found out may be sooner than later)
That foam ridge vent is poor..soft..and I believe it soaks water like a sponge.the kind that is more like steel wool is where lm at..do you know what l mean like steel wool?
Dear Kyle: This Video is one of the best of the year 2019. Your sure are Smart, Tough, Determined and Rational! Anybody who has the money to hire a Builder (and his Team) , and who fails to hire you to do the job, is foolish! Be lucky and carry on!! Bravo!!!
Where I’m from, anything other than digging out a rectangle shaped 2’x2’x4’ deep hole submerging 4x6 treated posts 3’ deep in concrete that stretch up to the roof line I’m forced to submit stamped engineering plans. Our city and county inspectors office only has code books on general construction method plans and common building technics. Anything but needs engineering plans which I can’t afford to purchase. My hat is off to you and your staff for making these beautiful videos. Much thanks! You guys are artists.
Great tips! I love the idea of spray foam, but I agree that fiberglass is just way more practical and cost-effective. Plus if you ever have to add or change anything inside the walls, no problem
I built my house in NH (2001) and went with closed cell foam. It blew my insulation budget out of the water, but I never regretted in the long term. We were warm in the winter, and cold in the summer, and used so little gas ( radiant heating ) that the delivery man thought the house was vacant. He said we used less gas than the houses that were vacant for the winter. It soundproofed the structure, and made it incredibly stiff. If I built another house ( with help this time ) I would definitely use foam. No question.
Spay foam definitely insulates better, but it's not the best soundproofing especially for low frequencies. It's never used in recording studios for soundproofing.
As always thanks for the advice, being in central Indiana going from 60 to 10 degrees in 3 days sweating is a huge issue. Perfect cost effective route.
In the building I just put up, we went with 1 1/2 thick foam board first then R-19 on top of that. It's the most energy efficient building I've ever owned.
great video my man. I own an insulation company in the northeast. We specialize in cellulose and fiberglass. Love what you guys are doing in the soffits to prevent wind wash as well as maintaining the R value over the top plate. Love all the videos. Keep them coming. Happy new year.
Hello Kyle, Happy New Year. Interesting to see your insulation package. One thing for you folks who didn't experience the oil crisis of the mid seventies: Don't use today's economics to calculate the future rate of return on investment. As was shown one may go to bed with one price of oil and then wake up with a geometrically increased one if it is available at all. Seems I remember 27 cents a gallon that went to over two dollars in a very few weeks. Oil distributors refused new accounts even with old customers. I believe it would behoove a customer to review how long he is going to keep the structure and if it might still have some life left how much more value a well insulated one would have than a lesser package for the resale value. The only reason not to "overinsulate" would be if you just flat didn't have the money. In most calculations it is an investment that has a higher rate of return than many at worst. Politics, scarce resources, competition for the ones available, natural disasters, changing climate, etc. etc. can all run the price of heating up. The only thing certain is that it isn't going down! Take care. Doug
And yet, energy cost adjusted for inflation has gone down. Even not adjusted for inflation, oil price has gone down. In fact we're back to crude prices not that far off those of 1950-1970. Science and hard data is there to remove the influence of "common sense".
Honestly I’m a architectural ironworker and I’m privy to all this but if I wasn’t I would not question your work cause I’ve seen the pride you take in what you do! Quality shows and you showin!
Flash N Batt is probably the best system to use like you said with one inch of foam and the rest with batt insulation of your choice. With that you get your windbreaker with a warm sweater underneath. Excellent building practices, Kyle.
I like a combo of spray foam and fiberglass if it’s in your budget. I did 2 inches of spray foam for a awesome vapor barrier and did r13 to finish out the walls. It was stud walls though so it was easier to use regular batts. I ended up with r27 in the walls so I was happy. NW MT. Gets colder here. Lol thanks for sharing.
With Ryan's ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
I live in Minnesota and I had to completely remodel my 2500 sq ft. house due to a flood. Originally it was fiberglass and instead I used a closed cell foam from the basement to the trusses. I figured the foam was about 25% more than fiberglass. After all said and done I save 40% on my heat bill. Same house, the only difference is the insulation. It took 2 years to recoup the cost.
I'm up in northern Alberta and here it routinely hits -40f year after year and this past year we saw record highs of nearly 120f! Thank God I used spray foam in my garage build! With no AC in my garage it stayed a much more comfortable 90-95° I even considered moving into my garage or basement (which was also foamed) during that three week period. My house with conventional insulation was well over 100° by comparison. I believe that foaming with a closed cell foam is the way to go, regardless of where you are.
Go sell your home and banks aren't giving mortgages with spray foam houses anymore. They can't see the lumber buried in foam and it often rots away fast
I applaud you for putting up moisture barrier beneath your exterior sheathing & the Poly over you interior insulation. That by itself should prevent moisture building up in your walls... In addition, that fiberglass insulation method you are using is comparable with open-cell spray foam, less expensive on average, and an acceptable method of insulating a barn. No complaints on your choice of building materials. The only downpoint of large bats of insulation is that they sag with time.
See, see! That is exactly what i have been trying to explain to my local contractors. Air needs to come in at the eaves and exit the ridge. My 1960's house just has gable vents, and the ridge vent. They don't see a problem. Translation: they don't fully understand or they are just lazy. Thank you for helping explain things!
I invited two insulation companies to insulate my attached garage turned finished room. I knew my house ( typical Ranch ) and how it is constructed. How it’s built. It’s simple. Ranch houses in 1960 did not insulate the ceiling of the garage.. Cold air comes from the overhangs and drops into the garage. Or room as it is currently. I knew exactly what I needed for insulation of my cold garage room. The overhangs needed bat insulation. Simply remove the plywood from underside of the overhang, then install the bat and replace the plywood. You would think a company of 30 years would know this. The old drywall and wall insulation were recently removed due to a water leak. I made the contractors aware of the situation. What I didn’t tell them was how to do the ceiling insulation. I simply told them I need insulation between the studs and insulation for the cold coming through the ceIling I listened to their suggestions while kept my mouth shut to test the insulation contractors. They both could not figure out a simple solution. They were into sales more than my needs. Or what the house actually needed. One of the contractors wanted to fill every aspect of my house with holes for blown insulation. Totally unnecessary. He wanted to spray foam the walls and blow insulation in the ceiling causing extensive damage to the ceiling and exterior walls. His solution was improper, expensive and would have cost significant damage. He was obviously more of a sales guy for spray foam and cared less about the job at hand. Mind you the guy was in the business for 30 years. The other contractor had no idea what to do at all. I did the job myself after educating myself fully. It turns out many contractors do not have your best interest in mind. They want to over charge you. And sell you something you don’t need or mess it up completely.YOU REALLY NEED TO LEARN WHAT YOU NEED AND DO NOT REPLY ON CONTRACTORS. MANY TIMES THEY HAVE BEEN DOING IT WRONG FOR 30 YEARS WHILE THEY CLAIM 30 YEARS OF DOING THINGS RIGHT. ..... WRONG!
Trust No Contractors. They lie to your face. They are very convincing. You can only tell if they are lying if you educate yourself BEFORE they arrive to your house.
@@wheelie642 This is simply not true. Honest people do exist. The good contractors will not come beat on your door for remodel they are already very busy. Builders who enjoy their line of work do not need to sell anything to you if you want something done. A good one may advise or refuse to do something the consumer wants done wrong but has no need to sell anything but his skills and reputation.
@@wheelie642 that is right, I was working with someone that do some construction works, I was supposed to help getting things done, at our first assignment together I realized the guy knew very little about construction or logic..well, all the time we worked together was the same..I had to argued against the ideas he had for the work ...or else feel somehow ashamed for the results..at the end I decided to leave.. sadly construction is full of people of low standarts and a lot of scammers.
THANKS !!!!! From one craftsman contractor to another craftsman contractor. I just found your channel, BUT it's great to see someone else taking PRIDE in their work and workmanship!!!! Keep up the great work, tips and info !!!
I just insulated my cabin. In the south we have humidity and with spray foam it tends to trap moisture. I used the r38 bats in the ceiling and r13 in the walls (2x4). We also caulked all the inner seams floor to ceiling in the walls and wrap and OSB board taped. The guy I had insulate the walls (about the only thing I did not do myself) and he said spray foam was at least 3 times the cost. Thats a lot of extra money and the foam would go everywhere in the walls and ceiling. Later if I had a problem the foam would have to be cut out what a great mess. So bottom line you are doing a great job. BTY I have told several of my friends about your videos and now they are hooked. Also my wife is now trying to tell me how to use the metal flashing after watching you. THANKS! I think.
I'm a general contractor and own a spray foam business and I believe most of what you said is oldschool spray foam is superior in all aspects. First of all you dont need vapor barrier or air barrier with foam. As the foam does both. Metal buildings are notoriously drafty because of the corrugations even with your trim it's going to leak like crazy. I challenge you to do a blower door test on one of your buildings and then build one with spray foam and do a blower door test. The results will astonish you. The foam will blow the conventional build out of the water.
@@rangerdoc1029 There is just simply no need as he said before spray foam is superior in every single way. 2 inches of spray foam accounts for 6 inches of that batt.
Straight talking chap. Sensible information and clearly stated. Thanks. I’m insulating my house in the Spanish hills. Understood that you need to consult with local architects etc. 👍👍👍
I learned a lot. I have always had intest in construction, watched this old house and other similar shows Now there is youtube, with contractors showing you how to tips, or like this one learned something new. I do finish carpentery trim, cabinets, painting anything to finish the project Some drywall and like here insulation.
They are very different, I know you are intending to compliment them, but as a builder myself, I wouldn't characterize them that way. I see significant favorable qualities in Kyle that are different than what you see in Matt. I can appreciate both but I find Kyle much more relatable for me personally. No disrespect to Matt and what he does for building science which I do my best to be a steward of.
Hey Kyle Papa Kirk my friend you are very informative very knowledgeable and very cool. I have been doing carpentry for about 25 years and I'm still learning I have learned quite a few things from you thank you I appreciate it God bless brother
I hate to break it to you , but my guess is that only reason you use fiberglass is a cost . With no plywood and just house wrap , I would like to see blower door test on one of your buildings . I'm residential builder in NorthEast NY , the way I build houses , air exchange rate is usually less then 1 . Let's see your results
@@SinnisjInsulator I think they put plastic over insulation on inside so I guess that is vapor barrier. But still , big building like that with nothing but the cross bracing? I'm sure it works, but I'm also sure plywood would make it lot stronger and tighter
finally someone who is on the same page. I never recommend spray foam either on any of my buildings that I do. . ive been building d for well over 20 years, and I've never heard a single complaint from any customer that their building wasn't super efficient. it's always the opposite. that they can hear it with a candle. properly insulated, and vapor barrier, and they a solid performers. thanks . I'll pull your videos fir some references.
there is some smart constructing going on! I really enjoy watching all you builders and comparing practices and features you add or justify for having. Please, keep doing great work, it seems like it gets replaced more and more with building faster, lesser quality and more of hiding things.
Great video, clearly you care about quality and your video is intended to help people even if they do not intend to help you in your business. This is what makes UA-cam so great. Only thing I would add is that you should add acoustical sealant between the vapour barrier and the bottom screed board. The outside air will push through the wall materials and creep into the heated space causing condensation where the dew point is reached. This can cause mold and moisture damage to the wall board. I do a few of this type of video as well but they are far less popular than yours. Border property inspections. Thanks for posting.
I read some of the comments, and you run into the same thing we run into. It doesn’t matter how great we think we build, someone in the comments will always point out we are doing it wrong. 😆 Good job Kyle, good video. Overhead doors are indeed a huge energy loss source. All the one we put in are insulated.
He does good work yes but these buildings will long term have interior mold if they do not keep temperature same as outside most of the time. There is no way around it period. 20 years doing deconstructive examination opening and closing for lawyers looking for mold in lawsuits. Most are bad workmanship no saddle on back of chimney stuff like that. Some of it is well built skilled carpentry masonry with Interior vapor barrier no obvious leaks of water only reason there is mold is two vapor barriers no other explanation. Hundreds of lawsuits. You will not find a building with this setup made with wood over 100 years old. Every wood structure hundreds of years old can breathe.
@@Madmoody21 I hear what you're saying but this isn't a wood building...it's metal so I'm not sure what your complaint is?? I am looking into wood vs metal so I appreciate your answer.
On my post frame house, I used batts on the sidewalls. I did a spray and blow in the attic, where I did 1” to seal, and blown-in to achieve r-value. Most of your air and heat loss is through the ceiling. The 1” foam makes a big difference and is the best bang for your buck.
Love your vids, think ive watched them all but this is the first time commenting. It's so cool to see and compare how different and not different houses are build in other countries. In Sweden we always put about 12 inch of styrofoam under the 4 inch concrete foundation. Wich is the first step of the build. You NEVER and i mean never build the walls first here. The styrofoam sheets are 4 inch thick so it's 3 layers. All your water lines are then cut into your 2nd layer using a heated wire tool. Sewege are put together under the ground in most cases. For a shop the insulation might only be like 1 layer thick. But if you insulate your wall and cealing but not the slab you whould be a fool in Sweden. Oh and everyone uses radiant floor heating. We'll this turned out to a book, sorry about that haha.
I agree with Albin. Here in the Nordic countries (Im in Norway) we have long experience with building under extreme conditions. Though not common for industrial buildings, current codes also requires to extend the insulation to 3-5 feet outside the building foundation. I think that environmental factors should be added to your recommendations. Here, research and experience has resulted in codes based on environmental product declarations (EPD). Fiberglass (FG) is still recognized to be the best (FG has lower consumption of energy and emission during production and transport than extruded (XPS) or expanded polystyren (EPS) and vakuum insulated panels (VIP). Besides that, there are lots of research and a whole new industry growing based on high tech biological insulation products, from wood fibers to nano technology. That insulation is important is evident. The latest EU directive for energy consumption in buildings (EPBD Recast) requires that all new buildings must be close-to-zero emission buildings by 2021. Its always better to be prepared for the future than sleep ...
I believe the Swedes use what is called a shallow insulated concrete foundation. Basically, the concrete is insulated enough that the ground underneath it doesn't freeze so you don't need a foundation past the frost line. it's a natural fit for radiant floor heating, because you're insulating the floor already.
I think you're referring to the idea of a frost-protected shallow foundation, right? The insulation directly below the concrete makes sense, but the real gain is extending insulation beyond the poured slab which effectively raises the frost depth line. What I would be curious to hear about is how it could be combined with a pole barn structure. How would you insulate around the concrete columns without disturbing the hard pack dirt? It's probably a total novice question. BTW, I've never built a house or a pole barn, just trying to learn. Please don't think I'm trying to challenge anybody. I'm definitely no expert. :)
@@ThunderDog This concept is only for when you build on top of the slab. At the edge of the foundation and where you will have loadbearing walls the concrete is 8 inches thick instead of 4. Also the styrofoam in the outer part of the foundation is U shaped and has like a 1 inch thick concrete layer "glued" to it so from the outside it looks really good, except for the seems every 4 foot becuase thats how long the styrofoam sheet/U-shaped part is. Hope i explained it well hehe..
I had to chuckle at this video a little bit because there are far more than 5 important points as you mentioned several times. I am glad to see someone who can do "unscripted" videos. They can be far more difficult to manage, GREAT JOB again!
Any concern with voids under the rat board when they bring in the fill? I'm thinking in terms of compaction, settlement & possible voids under the board. Not concerned with the building resting on the fill, just voids under the board. Also, if you make a book on how to build post frame buildings, I'd pay $100+ for it. Excellent work. "I have never seen that level of quality in post frame buildings ever" - my Dad.
On my personal pole barn, which I built, I used metal roofing that had a thin layer of synthetic fibrous material sprayed to the underside of the metal. My building is uninsulated and there is no condensation dripping from roof panels. Any condensation adheres to the fabric and evaporates. Cost was an additional $1 sf. Dampens sound of rain as well. Your videos are well detailed and informative. Well done. 👍🏻
Down here in Ky. we insulate the perimeter of the slab with 2" rigid foam board and sometimes under the slab. That keeps the edges of the slab warmer when it is cold.
thermal break is always wise in any concrete foundation as you see why and thus why I would use ICF for foundation forms for this very reason as it does three steps in one.
good video and building tips. I built passive house style homes in michigan in the 80's and 90's. While mathematically folks will agree with your thoughts on "diminishing returns" . However while building new , it is the least costly time to make any structure , low cost to operate over the lifetime. I built residential . My best home , 4000 square feet, 2 story , slab on grade. Heated and cooled in michigan , $250.00 for the year. After a few articles where printed on that home. The state of michigan hired me to teach all the technical school instructors how to build homes without furnaces. 99% off the shelf materials for the homes. Most fuel costs will not be getting lower over the years , from the data and commodity prices I keep track of over the last 30 years of building . I know you are talking about a working barn building . But many DYI folks are building pole barn homes as their resident . Because of the lowest cost per sq ft framed and finished. Great tips for folks. Blown in is so cheap to add plenty the first time around. Keep up the great work . Building science is constantly getting better , as are the great folks like you , sharing what you know and do .
Thanks Kyle for the information, I’ve been going around in circles up here in northern Michigan and I like what you said and explained, Thanks again! Thanks Greg you did a fine job also!
If you lived down in Louisiana I have you build a building for me. You did nice detailed work, seem to be well informed on materials used, and that's coming from a guy who remodels house for a living. Keep up the good work, it's good to see some one who takes pride in what they do!
I have owned and built several outbuildings, great tips for constructing a new one. One thing you didn't mention is that fiberglass is a great place for rodents to nest in. I grew up in northern IL and live in southern WI now and mice are a big problem in pole barns and love to burrow in fiberglass. I have found that over time fiberglass eventually settles, absorbs moisture, and is full of rodent feces and urine...many a day in a hazmat suit tearing the stuff out has taken me over to the foam side :) Nice video!
Foam is awful high...maybe 3 times the price because you are at the mercy of a whole industry setting prices,since you cant do it yourself...mouse terrds are outside my sheetrock
@@metalrooves3651 Blown in cellulose with rodenticide is a good affordable option for pole barns. You could even flash (1" inch of foam) and blow in the rest. One other nice thing is you can remove it by just sucking it out if you ever have to. Maybe foam will come down in price after all the pandemic craziness...? I've never used Rockwool, that might be ok but it is pricey too now. I just know I will never use fiberglass again :)
Love that you understand and share that tech is region-dependent, even just in the USA.. so overlooked most of the time, with guys from Maine and Florida arguing about where the vapour barrier should go.. *rollseyes*
What sucks about these videos is it just makes it that much more daunting to find a local builder you trust. I've seen enough about how you build and how you think about solving problems that makes me want to hire you. But there's no way I can get that level of comfort from a 15 minute sales speech locally. Anyway, love the videos, keep 'em coming. And start working in SE Wisconsin. :)
Love the videos and your techniques. Up here in Wisconsin I never advise a flash and batt set up. 1” of closed cell spray foam is a class A vapor barrier and up here anytime fiberglass is used your required to have a vapor barrier on the inside too this creates a moisture trap. If your going to spray foam its advised to spray enough so the dew point is in the foam. This means at lease 50% of your r value needs to be in foam so moisture doesnt condense. Keep up the awesome work!! Im glad your customers have you and your work ethic!
My thinking is that a vapor barrier is not necessary when steel liner is used but am open to being shown otherwise. There are two ways for water vapor to enter the wall cavity. The first being Vapor diffusion from the warm moist area to the cold dry area. The second is air leakage. A vapor barrier is meant to address the diffusion mechanism but it may not be effective for air sealing. The reason I don’t think it is needed with steel liner panel is because steel in and of itself is a vapor barrier. It is not like drywall or plywood or osb in which vapor can travel through. I’d love to hear other thoughts.
Seen pictures (images) on a few blogs showing how the wood behind the steel got moldy due to moisture but also mainly to poor ventilation, its a common misconception due to those living in less humid areas than that to those living in moisture prone areas such as for me in MA, it is wise to build the way he does and not adding tape to the vapor barrier as doing so does not allow the wall to breathe enough to prevent/reduce the chance of mold growing in the wall. Even including felt on the roof would help reduce the chance of mold growing on the wood structure where it can get humid and thus moist enough for mold to grow.
Excellent video, you obviously know your business! I’m in central Canada, in the City of Winnipeg, which is also referred to as “Winterpeg”. I have lived all over the place, and have renovated 8 houses, in some very diverse climates. I have never seen a frame style as you demonstrate in this video, but I can definitely see some benefits to the design. The use of heavier structural members in much wider spacing is far more economical than “stick frame”, and associated labour costs would be much lower accordingly. I’d be concerned about wind and snow loading in my region, with spans that wide. Gust damage would be a real threat in many parts of the Province of Manitoba. Regarding your dramatically reduced number of Roof Trusses; I’m not certain that a design with that configuration of rafters and trusses would pass a Permit inspection here. One really great advantage to this design is all that space in the loft area. I’ll wager that you could convert that into usable climate controlled space, with the addition of roof airflow channels attached to the bottom of the rafters, covered by thin panel Foam insulation and drywall. Anyway, I really enjoyed seeing how things are done in your region, thank you for posting this!
Kyle, why don’t you use cellulose insulation? You can hard pack the walls when you insulate the ceiling. The reason I suggest it is cellulose is far more forgiving when it gets damp and holds its R value even when it is wet. It is also a fire retardant and the boric acid is a pest and mold deterrent. Love the videos!
That 1 dislike just irks me..... why? Anyway, great video Kyle. I'm not in construction but I truley enjoy watching you do what you do. Very entertaining. The shear pride you take in your work is contagious. You make most of us want to thrive for perfection.
Thanks for the nice detailed video. I don't build in your region, but my first thought on vapor/rats/air infiltration is to use SIPs. Perhaps a full SIP enclosure, including roof, and then use furring strips on the outside of it to attach siding, metal, composite, whatever. If you screen the bottom to prevent bugs etc, you can build in natural air flow between the two, and negates the need for anything else....as I envision it at least.
Did exactly this on my timber frame. It works great. During the summer when the heat is bearing down on the outside the hot air rises up and cool air comes in the bottom. Makes a big difference in how hot the shop gets.
@@rexmundi8154 cool. I am building an addition, and I am just putting up T111 plywood, and closed cell foam. No vapor barrier, nothing. My area is dryish, and has little prolonged dampness.
Hey Kyle, i know this video is old, but i see that you switched to spray foam. Care to talk about what made you switch? I assume it is customer to customer, but thought you might have some things to talk about.
Pretty good explanation. The truss is called a raised heel truss. The only thing that is better than a metal door is a fiberglass door with a foam core, just as strong as metal and better insulating and more resistant to dents. You can also put 2" thick hard foam boards under the slab all along the perimeter if you want more insulation. The 8' on center studs is a good idea. each wood stud only gives R7, it's called a thermal bridge.
Me too, never ever in life have used spray foam insulation. It is enough to know, from what kind chemicals spray foam is made, and no any question more.
Built my house 19 years ago with spray foam insulation and have no problems and I live on a hill where the wind always blows and it's sealed up everything can't think of a problem other than being dense it may transfer sound through the wall easierwhich is not a problem for us since we live in the middle of 80 acres
I don't think you know what chemicals are involved in the production of SPF. It is the healthiest, most durable, and most efficient insulation product available. Do you have health problems relating to the cushions in your car, your couch, or chairs? How about other plastics in your home, office, or car? That said, this presenter is very articulate, and is clearly an excellent framer, but does lack in building envelope knowledge. House wrap is known as your water resistive barrier. Vapor barrier always goes on the inside of the conditioned space. 2 inches of closed cell spray foam will be comparable in cost (probably a little more) to, and vastly outperform 5 inches of fiberglass batts. The best value in the structure in this video would be 2 inches of cc foam in the walls, and R-49 in the attic. The foam creates an air barrier that the rest of the wall assembly does not provide and will stop convection which is how the vast majority of your energy leaves a building.
Your "attic air deflectors" have a cardboard equivalent ready made product here in Sweden. It's all based on 4foot/120cm spaced trusses. Love your channel and found it inspiring while building my own 40x100feet/12x30.5m shop. Quite a bit different from post frame but still! It's a steel sheeted wood frame on a concrete slab (built first) with 8inch/20cm polystyrene insulation below, as well as high strength polystyrene extending beyond the slab to prevent frost from pushing the foundation up. Walls and inner ceiling have 8inch/20cm rock wool sheet insulation and then cellulose fiber is added in the attic as a final step. Doors are large industrial side hinged doors from Findoor insulated with 60 mm PU foam. Heating is through 1000 meters of floor heating using a 16kW heat pump fed by 2x200 meter holes drilled straight down into bed rock. It's great to keep the cold out. :)
Nice details, all your tips, are Canadian building code. We use thin foam ventilation baffles. Vapour barrier is critical, the moist warm air in your home hits a dew point in your cold walls, and turns to moisture. Your house wrap soffit curtain also prevents your blown in from getting wind washed. Love the simplicity of a steel building.
Great videos and tips. I’m considering this type of building to replace the old barn. You’ve alluded to it but I couldn’t find it in other videos. Could you show how you actually seal the bottom of the building to the ground in this series? Keep up the excellent work.
Built my house 8 years ago and went with 2” of spray foam and 3” of fiberglass insulation. It works fantastic most times i cant tell if its wind or raining outside heating bill is next to nothing for 4500 square feet. All radiant in entire home, basement and garage. Best of both worlds
Dear Kyle, There's a Government website " Design guide for frost protected shallow slabs on grade." I found it when I had to build a goat barn/dairy here in Mass. They researched this in places like Alaska and published this PDF free of charge. I did use their design and after 10 years, have not seen any heaving or frost infiltration. That's the only area in your approach that gives me some concern. Love to watch your vids. You've got a good thing going....the constant traveling must suck but no job is perfect. John B.
Hi Brian, Just type in "Design Guide for frost protected shallow foundations or FPSF". The HUD, PDF site is first on the list. This one is free to access and download but i noticed many pay to see sites below it.
Just a couple of points I'd like to add. Im a few hours north of you, so I realize that some dynamics are a bit different, but one issue we've seen with the flash and batt system, is you end up with a vapor barrier near the outside of the wall, which can lead to condensation within the batt. For that reason, we typically will reccomend at least 2" of foam, to have enough thermal resistance outside that vapor barrier to prevent dewpoint from falling within the batt. What we've found up here is that heating costs with fiberglass are about double what they are with foam, so if a person is only heating the shop to 45 degrees, and the heating cost is a couple hundred bucks a season, foam may very well not pay off, but if its heated to 70, it may very well make sense. The other factor that comes into play with fiberglass, or any air permeable insulation, is convective looping. Warm air at the inside of the wall rises through the insulation, while cold air at the outside of the wall falls, causing accelerated air, and therefore heat, exchange within the cavity. This in one of the key ways that foam helps with energy conservation, but again, should be evaluated on a case by case basis. One of the commenters mentioned foam for sound transfer resistance, and in our experience, foam is not a good sound barrier. Fiberglass will deaden sound substantially better than foam will.
2 yrs ago I put a post frame up for my race shop, I run a spray foam truck have for the last 15yrs. So when it came installation I did it the same as you. Spray foam is over sold it has its place and most sale guys don't realize that. I used ribbed panel metal siding. I made sure that I canned foamed all the corners plus door openings, and the inside of the buildings bottoms of the ribs. It was built with 4×6 post so when I framed up my walls: 2×4, I framed them even with the 4×6 post 16 on center, that gave 6in from face of the post to the sringers then ran R-19 in the walls. I ran drywall on walls and lid with a R-38 in the attic. I ran a 10ft wide insulated steel overhead garage door. I kept the door size down because if you don't need a 16ft don't buy one it's just a bigger hole you have in the building and it cost more. Spray foam is a awesome product when used properly. Unless you're going to be living in it, you can insulate a post frame building efficiently by using the right procedures and materials while saving money at the same time. Keep in mind there is a R-21 batt the owens makes, it comes in standard sizes and widths. My advice after 15yrs in the insulation biz, everything has its place do your homework! And it doesn't hurt get 2-3 estimates when doing a project just to keep them honest and to get the best deal.
Good video and I agree with the batt over Foam for the ext walls if your not looking to spend a lot of money but I'm not sure how it holds up because I've never put a moisture barrier on the inside of the wall to seal in the batts but I would have thought that to be a bad idea just because if the batts were ever to get wet or moisture find a way inside. the batts wouldn't dry out very well and shorten the life of the insulation. Personally I prefer closed cell in all pole buildings because it also strengthens the structure. Like I said though great video looks like a tremendous job and quality craftmanship!
i agree with your spray vs. batt. spray is a good choice when you need it to act as a vapour barrier or when you're up against stone/concrete. also contributing to cost & return on investment, spray really needs to be done professionally because it can be a disaster for mold or whatever if not done properly while batts can be installed pretty easily by help crew..
Hi Kyle, thank you so much for the info! I'm an interior design student and we're learning about different construction systems for buildings. I have found a lot of the videos on UA-cam that the professionals record, use a lot of technical terms that people working in that industry would know; but for people just learning about it all for the first time, it makes it a bit difficult to understand. I like how well you explain things, and take your time going back to the basics of the structures (e.g when you explained the trusses) but there was still a lot I didn't quite understand- like R values and the areas you build- how you have to accommodate for that. Do you think you could make some simple building/construction videos for total beginners who want to learn about the construction methods fo buildings? That would be so amazing :D
I'm definitely going to look more into how to prevent condensation here in Texas. My parents unfortunately, every year are having huge leaks in their living room ceiling, same area every time. They have a 1930's home but it had only been remodeled inside, not outside which from your video, is where our problem is.
If you're getting condensation that means moist air (outside air in Texas) is getting into the house and meeting a colder surface (HVAC space) allowing the water to come out of the air. Find the air leak.
Ben Madison, thanks for the reply. The AC unit is in the attic and from what my mom has explained, my dad, has to take the water hose (?) up into the attic and flush something. I'm now thinking it is exactly what you thought. The condensate line is leaking
If they get in the habit of running white vinegar or bleach down that line it'll stop the sludge that builds up in there and keep him from having to unblock it so often. Use white vinegar unless you know it drains into a sink within the house.
Ben Madison, I will definitely pass this along to them. I don't think it drains to a sink within the house. Hopefully this helps them and they can have a nice looking ceiling. Thank you so much for the tips and help!! You're awesome
I have 1 point... errr 2 points.. .errr 3..... Point 1 - blah blah Point 2 - blah blah blah Point 3 - ... oh wait #2 was #2 & #3 :) :) :) Still best videos out there:)
We all wish when we had a project, there was a craftsman as conscientious as you on the job. Excellent detail. I have had the pleasure of working around a few great craftsman. I am not worthy ;-)
Absolutely my favorite You Tube channel Kyle! You are clear and concise in your explanations and like I always say, you're a perfectionist! I also like how you treat your men. You are a great businessman as well as a SUPERIOR BUILDER!
Awesome video! Excellent communication and attention to detail. Focusing customers needs, and providing people with the most for their money. Taking it one step further to collaborate with other people in the industry. Ive seen that same insulation with a vapor barrier already attached to it here in NY. We use R-19 in our walls too. The stuff looks like a blanket.
In the climates where you risk the ground along the wall freezing and the frost going under the slab, lifting and cracking the concrete, you can use XPS Extruded Polystyrene for ground insulation. You look at the frost depth in your area, and this will be how far out from the wall you will need to insulate. If the frost goes 10" or 20", you need to insulate minimum of 10" or 20" out from the wall. Think of frost as following the radius of a circle.
@@warrenmatheson563 We see freezing temperatures on average from October to April in large parts of Sweden. Code is to use standard sheets of XPS extending 2feet/60cm and twice that on the outside of corners of the slab, if not it WILL push the foundation up and potentially you get a crack in the slab depending on your construction.
@@ixer76 no it won't if you have enough base and rebar. I'm in Canada.....we have pole-buildings everywhere.....and we have cold too. Just cause because it's code in Sweden, doesn't mean anything. Foam on the outside of the slab doesn't stop a slab from moving or cracking.....unless the laws of physics have magically changed recently. It creates a thermal break and an expansion joint so that the floating slab can't accidently lift a wall post. People here have only started doing a bit of foam in the last 25 years...but the older buildings have held up just fine without it all this time.
@@warrenmatheson563 Our experiences clearly tell different stories. Our bed rock (and water table) is shallow and the ground has high clay content - which requires drainage and material to fill below the slab to break the capillary effect of water and irrigate it away from the foundation. With luck you have sand all over, it simplifies a lot of things and your physics may apply. If you don't take measures you will have too much water directly in contact with the slab and the ground surface and once it freezes you will have to use more than a lot of rebar and concrete. It might be acceptable (to a point) if you have a pole building with a floating slab, but not if your building rests on the slab.
Warren if anything as you said, solid foam insulation is more for thermal break than a slab protector, but in some cases it can protect from frost damage aka upheaving cracks i some types of geology.
Thing is, if you want to insulate the concrete floor, foam boards make it easy. You put them on the outside of your building between the dirt and the concrete, and your concrete is now insulated from the outside (at least as low as the frost line). Ideally another layer would be put under it too, to really make that concrete warm, but it's already a big improvement. When they started doing this in Canadian homes, there was a big improvement in the warmth of the basement. Sounds like it's not as cold there, so probably not needed under. It's not necessary to have blown foam in the whole space, a light coating of 1", or even just around all the cracks, will stop the air flow, which is the biggest problem. After that, the rest of the insulation is whatever you prefer. Keep in mind the studs are dropping your insulation value though. Building code usually allows a spacing of 24" between them, and that's best for insulation. Two layers of studs straddled would also help but not going to be best value for sure. In cold climates, the vapor barrier is a must as described. I wouldn't do it otherwise.
Hi Kyle, One option to increase the Insulation Value is adding Radiant Barrier. It is best to put it on the "Hot Side" of whatever you are trying to keep insulated. But for your buildings with the metal getting hot, you would want to put it on first, then put the House Wrap on so that you have a thermal break to prevent conduction into the radiant barrier. You do an excellent job! Just an added option. The Radiant Barrier will give your buildings an even greater "Thermos Effect".
Great videos, the care and pride you take in your work is amazing. Wish I could tear my barn down and have you come build a new one in it’s place. Keep up the great work and attention to detail.
R 50 in the ceilings up here. We also use a acoustical sealer (does not harden or freeze) for our vapor barrier top & bottom plates. Love the videos!! I want to try your style of barn up here we just have to go deeper for our columns or they will get pushed up by the frost.
thanks for all the positive comments and knowledge being shared on this topic. Keep it coming!!
Another awesome video, thanks for the good content
buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers
Please give this a read Kyle.
What height do you carry your pressure treated 3 ply 2x6 posts above grade? Looks like 6 ft... Why not only a couple feet above grade? It would be cheaper if they were 2 ft above grade vs 6
@@Themuskychannel
I read it all.. cant say I'm more enlightened. More confused that when I started honestly..
Hey chip, the bottom line is that it is difficult to build in our climate. We have cold winters and hot humid summers, so the question is where do we need to be putting our vapor barrier? I do know for a fact in a heated and cooled application the answer is not simply to put it on both sides of the home IE tyvek on outside Polly on inside, this is a perfect recipe for mold growth on exterior wall systems, I know this all to well one of my builder friends lost their business because of a class action lawsuit because he was building this way, now with all this said, what Kyle is doing here is slightly different than a typical house and I quite Frankly do not have all the information I need to say weather it’s right or wrong. Is this building going to be drywall’s? Is it going to be conditioned in the summer months? All of this has an effect on how you should build, I think our insulation practice is going to change drastically in our lifetime, I think we need to change our thinking on how we insulte and air seal, why are we putting our coats on the inside instead of the outside? Why are we not bringing air in on our own terms? And why are we still putting plastic on the inside of our walls lol. If anybody wants more questions answered I would UA-cam Matt Risinger, very smart man when it comes to building science
It seems that I watch this video maybe once every four months. The rise of smart personable contractors who can present well on social media is a wonderful thing to behold.. People who work in the building trades, the ones who take pride in their work and are serious about their craft are often overlooked in our tech obsessed culture, but make no mistake about it they contribute mightily to keeping our economy chugging along.
What?
@@desolatesurfer8651 yeah he sure did use alot a big words there. Mustve gone to college. You know, pro tip, you can google anythimg you don't understand. that always helps me out when I come across a big word like "defenestrate" for instance
This guy is all about NO OVERKILL!..THERE are alot of people SPENDING WAY too much on insulation under the guise of doing it "right"...
Air infiltration or lack of it ,actually,is more important than over insulating!old farm houses with lath and plaster,if given good airtight windows,DOES NOT HAVE a need to (expesively) have insulation blown into the walls like was a big deal 20 years ago..theres alot of r value in ancient solid 1x10s and (usually)cedar lap along with the lath and plaster.
@@desolatesurfer8651 READ, IDIOT. READ.
I've been a builder for 25 years now....you are very fair and knowledgeable and I always learn something from your work. Thanks.
I just finished a 30 year career in finance. But I think what I should’ve been doing is building. I find myself drawn to these videos to watch what the best guys in their fields do.
I can’t say I ever watched a video on Finance that would be a real snooze fest for me. Keep up the good work and thanks for the great videos.
I've been renovating my own house (to the studs), gets really old fast given how long it takes to do everything.
I feel like if you do a job full time it will ultimately just feel like work and you'll get tired of it.
I'm a DevOps Engineer so my career is nothing like construction.
Honestly, a lot of construction careers are easy mentally just require a ton of manual labor. Construction also isn't a guaranteed career field, such as in 2009 lots of contractors went out of business because there were too many houses and it didn't financially make sense to pay someone to fix up your house because you didn't get much return on it.
Your body would likely not be very happy after a 30 year career in construction, be glad you had a desk job. lol
It's not mentally easy as it's proposed to be, unless you're a hack and like throwing things up quick. It is mental and physical and is stressful.
Your use of house wrap as a soffit vent channel is genius, so much cheaper than buying special products made just for that. Thank you for the idea!
Hey man I got into Post Frame building 2 years ago and you’ve been a huge mentor for me without even knowing it, thanks a lot!
With this house, I finally became the owner of the house I always wanted to be in. The hospital elite package has 2 bonuses; the first is about the base and the roof, ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxS-P9OAq3v4HNpPFqYFWNEq9A-E_PbZIN the second is about the confidential staff who give advice and the advice that worked for me. Thank you very much
ALL of your videos help me out, not to mention my buddies who think they're too busy to sit and watch (do it wrong without watching the video, then watch the video, and go fix it later) AND YEAH, GREG: You are making some valuable contributions to a whole bunch of people, Bro!
Your doing all the right things. Here in Canada we can swing from -40C in winter to +40C in summer so insulation needs to meet the needs of heating and cooling. Recommended attic insulation is now R50. Too often, I see customer's attics that have been upgraded but failed to provide what you refer to as "attic air deflectors". There are a lot of different commercial deflectors available, but your use of left-over vapour barrier is a great idea. Proper roofing and insulation can only be achieved by a "complete roofing system".
I had to keep rewinding every 30 seconds because you were just blowing my mind with information. I've already been framing for over 3 years and this is a jackpot of information in 12 minutes. You definitely earned a subscriber I wish I could give you more
Short and sweet. Just the facts. Excellent video on insulating a pole building. I’ve been building houses for 30 years and found this very educational. Just did my first pole building and had no clue how to properly ventilate and insulate it. Metal is different than wood.
Old remodels where you tear the inside walls out to redo wiring and the original outside wall was shingles over shiplap. Spray foam is perfect there as it seals up all the cracks and knots.
Thanks for explaining both sides very good I'm a spray foam contractor I'm in New Brunswick Canada
We spray 2" closed cell foam in walls and 4" directly onto the roofing deck this completes the building envelope zero condensation and blocks summer heat from getting in you get more ceiling height
No need for venting as sprays foam blocks radiant heat venting a ceiling is only to let the built up heat
(From radiant heat) to escape roofing last longer and foam makes you building 300% structural stronger
I have a hard time convincing older house builders about longer heals on trusses and at least 2' on center
Framing I get the same old saying that's not the way my grandfather did it
Great explanation this is a smart builder thanks for sharing for the customers
I think radiant heat cannot be blocked but can be reflected back by aluminum foil.
Good video, you obviously put a lot of thought into your work. Your wall insulation package concerns me though. I have been insulating buildings, including pole barns in northeast Ohio for the past 15 years and experience has taught me to avoid double vapor barrier assemblies because they tend to trap condensation. You install nice fluffy fiberglass in wide open, 8’ wide cavities which means that you are going to have a lot of air movement in your walls due to convection no matter how well you air seal the outside of the building. That air movement will kill your r-value and increase the risk of condensation. Closed cell spray foam solves those issues and is worth the true cost of the upgrade. Your attic assembly is fine but take another look at the walls; I think that once you add up the cost of all the various steps you have to go through now you will find foam attractive. On a different note, you should add extruded polystyrene as perimeter insulation around your slab.
I have no need for any of these tips, I just really enjoy the way you talk and clearly explain things.
Kyle, just a tip... I've found that ANY synthetic ridge vent will deteriorate over several years due to heating and cooling of seasons. The temperature changes tend to break down the product leaving an open space for critters and weather to enter. I've discovered this 1st hand when I built my own home. After 12 years I began seeing bits of this product on the attic floor then noticing wasps and flies entering. Since then I've had to remove the ridge vents and caps and place 6" screening over the ridge gap, then replace the ridge vents and caps. Hopefully this tip will help readers so they don't have to find out the the hard way that "synthetics" DON'T WORK well, when exposed to swings in temperatures through seasons. It's soo much easier to take a little extra time by adding the screening (and it's cheap insurance) to do this while finishing the roof to not have to rip off and replace later. Remember manufactures warrant their product (mostly of 1 year) because they've already tested it and know exactly how long its good for. Oh! BTW I spent a little more when replacing that product with stainless steel screening, I hate having to do a job twice I only wish someone had told me this when I was doing the roof. Happy New Year!
If anything, its solar degradation that will cause most plastics to fail, if it is faded looking then its due to solar exposure, but yes metal or alloy lasts longer and looks more aesthetic in architectural terms than uPVC which can melt from even the slightest of enough heat while being more durable in the sun than Vinyl which also melts in heat.
Great tip! Wish I would have done that myself on my recent garage, but will remember when the house roof needs replacing (which just found out may be sooner than later)
Excellent point - Thanks for sharing, makes perfect sense!
That foam ridge vent is poor..soft..and I believe it soaks water like a sponge.the kind that is more like steel wool is where lm at..do you know what l mean like steel wool?
You are saying something beyond screen,right?l mean screen wont stop driven rain..ridge venting is like gutter leaf gaurd..NONE OF IT IS REAL GOOD!
Dear Kyle: This Video is one of the best of the year 2019. Your sure are Smart, Tough, Determined and Rational! Anybody who has the money to hire a Builder (and his Team) , and who fails to hire you to do the job, is foolish! Be lucky and carry on!! Bravo!!!
Thanks brother appreciate it
Where I’m from, anything other than digging out a rectangle shaped 2’x2’x4’ deep hole submerging 4x6 treated posts 3’ deep in concrete that stretch up to the roof line I’m forced to submit stamped engineering plans. Our city and county inspectors office only has code books on general construction method plans and common building technics. Anything but needs engineering plans which I can’t afford to purchase.
My hat is off to you and your staff for making these beautiful videos. Much thanks! You guys are artists.
Great tips! I love the idea of spray foam, but I agree that fiberglass is just way more practical and cost-effective. Plus if you ever have to add or change anything inside the walls, no problem
I built my house in NH (2001) and went with closed cell foam. It blew my insulation budget out of the water, but I never regretted in the long term. We were warm in the winter, and cold in the summer, and used so little gas ( radiant heating ) that the delivery man thought the house was vacant. He said we used less gas than the houses that were vacant for the winter.
It soundproofed the structure, and made it incredibly stiff. If I built another house ( with help this time ) I would definitely use foam. No question.
I agree. I have done 3 rock wall basements in old homes and it is the best thing for them.
Spay foam definitely insulates better, but it's not the best soundproofing especially for low frequencies. It's never used in recording studios for soundproofing.
As always thanks for the advice, being in central Indiana going from 60 to 10 degrees in 3 days sweating is a huge issue. Perfect cost effective route.
In the building I just put up, we went with 1 1/2 thick foam board first then R-19 on top of that. It's the most energy efficient building I've ever owned.
great video my man. I own an insulation company in the northeast. We specialize in cellulose and fiberglass. Love what you guys are doing in the soffits to prevent wind wash as well as maintaining the R value over the top plate. Love all the videos. Keep them coming. Happy new year.
Hello Kyle, Happy New Year. Interesting to see your insulation package. One thing for you folks who didn't experience the oil crisis of the mid seventies: Don't use today's economics to calculate the future rate of return on investment. As was shown one may go to bed with one price of oil and then wake up with a geometrically increased one if it is available at all. Seems I remember 27 cents a gallon that went to over two dollars in a very few weeks. Oil distributors refused new accounts even with old customers. I believe it would behoove a customer to review how long he is going to keep the structure and if it might still have some life left how much more value a well insulated one would have than a lesser package for the resale value. The only reason not to "overinsulate" would be if you just flat didn't have the money. In most calculations it is an investment that has a higher rate of return than many at worst. Politics, scarce resources, competition for the ones available, natural disasters, changing climate, etc. etc. can all run the price of heating up. The only thing certain is that it isn't going down! Take care. Doug
And yet, energy cost adjusted for inflation has gone down. Even not adjusted for inflation, oil price has gone down. In fact we're back to crude prices not that far off those of 1950-1970. Science and hard data is there to remove the influence of "common sense".
Honestly I’m a architectural ironworker and I’m privy to all this but if I wasn’t I would not question your work cause I’ve seen the pride you take in what you do! Quality shows and you showin!
Flash N Batt is probably the best system to use like you said with one inch of foam and the rest with batt insulation of your choice. With that you get your windbreaker with a warm sweater underneath. Excellent building practices, Kyle.
I like a combo of spray foam and fiberglass if it’s in your budget. I did 2 inches of spray foam for a awesome vapor barrier and did r13 to finish out the walls. It was stud walls though so it was easier to use regular batts. I ended up with r27 in the walls so I was happy. NW MT. Gets colder here. Lol thanks for sharing.
I agree
The diminishing returns of adding that extra layer in Illinois has to be a factor. 2 inches of closed cell foam is plenty. Where do you stop?
With Ryan's ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
I live in Minnesota and I had to completely remodel my 2500 sq ft. house due to a flood. Originally it was fiberglass and instead I used a closed cell foam from the basement to the trusses. I figured the foam was about 25% more than fiberglass. After all said and done I save 40% on my heat bill. Same house, the only difference is the insulation. It took 2 years to recoup the cost.
Scoot thank you, the benefits of closed cell insulation is endless....
Nice work! Always fun to helpful to hear folks' experiences trying to optimize efficiency, but also thinking about the budget as well.
I'm up in northern Alberta and here it routinely hits -40f year after year and this past year we saw record highs of nearly 120f! Thank God I used spray foam in my garage build! With no AC in my garage it stayed a much more comfortable 90-95° I even considered moving into my garage or basement (which was also foamed) during that three week period. My house with conventional insulation was well over 100° by comparison. I believe that foaming with a closed cell foam is the way to go, regardless of where you are.
Go sell your home and banks aren't giving mortgages with spray foam houses anymore. They can't see the lumber buried in foam and it often rots away fast
In the UK there are some issues getting a mortgage when houses have roofs insulated with spray foam - I am not sure why America is different?
I applaud you for putting up moisture barrier beneath your exterior sheathing & the Poly over you interior insulation. That by itself should prevent moisture building up in your walls... In addition, that fiberglass insulation method you are using is comparable with open-cell spray foam, less expensive on average, and an acceptable method of insulating a barn. No complaints on your choice of building materials. The only downpoint of large bats of insulation is that they sag with time.
See, see! That is exactly what i have been trying to explain to my local contractors. Air needs to come in at the eaves and exit the ridge. My 1960's house just has gable vents, and the ridge vent. They don't see a problem. Translation: they don't fully understand or they are just lazy. Thank you for helping explain things!
I invited two insulation companies to insulate my attached garage turned finished room. I knew my house ( typical Ranch ) and how it is constructed. How it’s built. It’s simple. Ranch houses in 1960 did not insulate the ceiling of the garage.. Cold air comes from the overhangs and drops into the garage. Or room as it is currently. I knew exactly what I needed for insulation of my cold garage room. The overhangs needed bat insulation. Simply remove the plywood from underside of the overhang, then install the bat and replace the plywood. You would think a company of 30 years would know this. The old drywall and wall insulation were recently removed due to a water leak. I made the contractors aware of the situation. What I didn’t tell them was how to do the ceiling insulation. I simply told them I need insulation between the studs and insulation for the cold coming through the ceIling I listened to their suggestions while kept my mouth shut to test the insulation contractors. They both could not figure out a simple solution. They were into sales more than my needs. Or what the house actually needed. One of the contractors wanted to fill every aspect of my house with holes for blown insulation. Totally unnecessary. He wanted to spray foam the walls and blow insulation in the ceiling causing extensive damage to the ceiling and exterior walls. His solution was improper, expensive and would have cost significant damage. He was obviously more of a sales guy for spray foam and cared less about the job at hand. Mind you the guy was in the business for 30 years. The other contractor had no idea what to do at all. I did the job myself after educating myself fully. It turns out many contractors do not have your best interest in mind. They want to over charge you. And sell you something you don’t need or mess it up completely.YOU REALLY NEED TO LEARN WHAT YOU NEED AND DO NOT REPLY ON CONTRACTORS. MANY TIMES THEY HAVE BEEN DOING IT WRONG FOR 30 YEARS WHILE THEY CLAIM 30 YEARS OF DOING THINGS RIGHT. ..... WRONG!
Trust No Contractors. They lie to your face. They are very convincing. You can only tell if they are lying if you educate yourself BEFORE they arrive to your house.
@@wheelie642 This is simply not true. Honest people do exist. The good contractors will not come beat on your door for remodel they are already very busy. Builders who enjoy their line of work do not need to sell anything to you if you want something done. A good one may advise or refuse to do something the consumer wants done wrong but has no need to sell anything but his skills and reputation.
@@wheelie642 - typo there, you wrote “DO NOT REPLY ON CONTRACTORS” when I think you intended to state “DO NOT RELY ON CONTRACTORS” - take out the “P”.
@@wheelie642 that is right, I was working with someone that do some construction works, I was supposed to help getting things done, at our first assignment together I realized the guy knew very little about construction or logic..well, all the time we worked together was the same..I had to argued against the ideas he had for the work ...or else feel somehow ashamed for the results..at the end I decided to leave.. sadly construction is full of people of low standarts and a lot of scammers.
THANKS !!!!! From one craftsman contractor to another craftsman contractor. I just found your channel, BUT it's great to see someone else taking PRIDE in their work and workmanship!!!! Keep up the great work, tips and info !!!
Thank You Greg for the videos, fine workmanship and putting up with Kyle....
I just insulated my cabin. In the south we have humidity and with spray foam it tends to trap moisture. I used the r38 bats in the ceiling and r13 in the walls (2x4). We also caulked all the inner seams floor to ceiling in the walls and wrap and OSB board taped. The guy I had insulate the walls (about the only thing I did not do myself) and he said spray foam was at least 3 times the cost. Thats a lot of extra money and the foam would go everywhere in the walls and ceiling. Later if I had a problem the foam would have to be cut out what a great mess. So bottom line you are doing a great job. BTY I have told several of my friends about your videos and now they are hooked. Also my wife is now trying to tell me how to use the metal flashing after watching you. THANKS! I think.
I'm a general contractor and own a spray foam business and I believe most of what you said is oldschool spray foam is superior in all aspects. First of all you dont need vapor barrier or air barrier with foam. As the foam does both. Metal buildings are notoriously drafty because of the corrugations even with your trim it's going to leak like crazy. I challenge you to do a blower door test on one of your buildings and then build one with spray foam and do a blower door test. The results will astonish you. The foam will blow the conventional build out of the water.
Jeremy Edwards
YOU SIR ARE 100% Correct!!!
@@LoveisthegreaterI wonder if it will be the asbestos of our generation.
Why not both? 1.5" spf between the girts & batts in the 5-1/2" cavity.
@@rangerdoc1029 There is just simply no need as he said before spray foam is superior in every single way. 2 inches of spray foam accounts for 6 inches of that batt.
Are you spraying that right against the metal? What if there is a leak won't the water be trapped?
Straight talking chap. Sensible information and clearly stated. Thanks. I’m insulating my house in the Spanish hills. Understood that you need to consult with local architects etc. 👍👍👍
Really liked the wrap used for insulation baffle at rafters.
Foam board works great for baffles too. If it's a constricted eve vent... add more r value to your eve
I learned a lot.
I have always had intest in construction, watched this old house and other similar shows
Now there is youtube, with contractors showing you how to tips, or like this one learned something new.
I do finish carpentery trim, cabinets, painting anything to finish the project
Some drywall and like here insulation.
You are the Matt Risinger of barn building! I love your enthusiasm and knowledge.
If you say he’s like Matt: I’ll give him a shot.
They are very different, I know you are intending to compliment them, but as a builder myself, I wouldn't characterize them that way. I see significant favorable qualities in Kyle that are different than what you see in Matt. I can appreciate both but I find Kyle much more relatable for me personally. No disrespect to Matt and what he does for building science which I do my best to be a steward of.
Hey Kyle Papa Kirk my friend you are very informative very knowledgeable and very cool. I have been doing carpentry for about 25 years and I'm still learning I have learned quite a few things from you thank you I appreciate it God bless brother
I hate to break it to you , but my guess is that only reason you use fiberglass is a cost . With
no plywood and just house wrap , I would like to see blower door test on one of your buildings . I'm residential builder in NorthEast NY , the way I build houses , air exchange rate is usually less then 1 . Let's see your results
Fiberglass and house wrap will let air through, so non of the products mentioned are vapour barriers.
@@SinnisjInsulator I think they put plastic over insulation on inside so I guess that is vapor barrier. But still , big building like that with nothing but the cross bracing? I'm sure it works, but I'm also sure plywood would make it lot stronger and tighter
finally someone who is on the same page. I never recommend spray foam either on any of my buildings that I do. . ive been building d
for well over 20 years, and I've never heard a single complaint from any customer that their building wasn't super efficient. it's always the opposite. that they can hear it with a candle. properly insulated, and vapor barrier, and they a solid performers. thanks . I'll pull your videos fir some references.
there is some smart constructing going on! I really enjoy watching all you builders and comparing practices and features you add or justify for having. Please, keep doing great work, it seems like it gets replaced more and more with building faster, lesser quality and more of hiding things.
Great video, clearly you care about quality and your video is intended to help people even if they do not intend to help you in your business. This is what makes UA-cam so great. Only thing I would add is that you should add acoustical sealant between the vapour barrier and the bottom screed board. The outside air will push through the wall materials and creep into the heated space causing condensation where the dew point is reached. This can cause mold and moisture damage to the wall board. I do a few of this type of video as well but they are far less popular than yours. Border property inspections. Thanks for posting.
I read some of the comments, and you run into the same thing we run into. It doesn’t matter how great we think we build, someone in the comments will always point out we are doing it wrong. 😆
Good job Kyle, good video.
Overhead doors are indeed a huge energy loss source. All the one we put in are insulated.
He does good work yes but these buildings will long term have interior mold if they do not keep temperature same as outside most of the time. There is no way around it period. 20 years doing deconstructive examination opening and closing for lawyers looking for mold in lawsuits. Most are bad workmanship no saddle on back of chimney stuff like that. Some of it is well built skilled carpentry masonry with Interior vapor barrier no obvious leaks of water only reason there is mold is two vapor barriers no other explanation. Hundreds of lawsuits. You will not find a building with this setup made with wood over 100 years old. Every wood structure hundreds of years old can breathe.
@@Madmoody21 spray foam is better?
You did it wrong....just kidding.
@@Madmoody21 I hear what you're saying but this isn't a wood building...it's metal so I'm not sure what your complaint is?? I am looking into wood vs metal so I appreciate your answer.
well, didnt you know, people on youtube that work in an office know more than the people that actually build haha
On my post frame house, I used batts on the sidewalls. I did a spray and blow in the attic, where I did 1” to seal, and blown-in to achieve r-value. Most of your air and heat loss is through the ceiling. The 1” foam makes a big difference and is the best bang for your buck.
Love your vids, think ive watched them all but this is the first time commenting. It's so cool to see and compare how different and not different houses are build in other countries. In Sweden we always put about 12 inch of styrofoam under the 4 inch concrete foundation. Wich is the first step of the build. You NEVER and i mean never build the walls first here. The styrofoam sheets are 4 inch thick so it's 3 layers. All your water lines are then cut into your 2nd layer using a heated wire tool. Sewege are put together under the ground in most cases. For a shop the insulation might only be like 1 layer thick. But if you insulate your wall and cealing but not the slab you whould be a fool in Sweden. Oh and everyone uses radiant floor heating. We'll this turned out to a book, sorry about that haha.
Thanks for all that information. Appreciate it
I agree with Albin. Here in the Nordic countries (Im in Norway) we have long experience with building under extreme conditions. Though not common for industrial buildings, current codes also requires to extend the insulation to 3-5 feet outside the building foundation.
I think that environmental factors should be added to your recommendations. Here, research and experience has resulted in codes based on environmental product declarations (EPD). Fiberglass (FG) is still recognized to be the best (FG has lower consumption of energy and emission during production and transport than extruded (XPS) or expanded polystyren (EPS) and vakuum insulated panels (VIP). Besides that, there are lots of research and a whole new industry growing based on high tech biological insulation products, from wood fibers to nano technology.
That insulation is important is evident. The latest EU directive for energy consumption in buildings (EPBD Recast) requires that all new buildings must be close-to-zero emission buildings by 2021. Its always better to be prepared for the future than sleep ...
I believe the Swedes use what is called a shallow insulated concrete foundation. Basically, the concrete is insulated enough that the ground underneath it doesn't freeze so you don't need a foundation past the frost line. it's a natural fit for radiant floor heating, because you're insulating the floor already.
I think you're referring to the idea of a frost-protected shallow foundation, right? The insulation directly below the concrete makes sense, but the real gain is extending insulation beyond the poured slab which effectively raises the frost depth line. What I would be curious to hear about is how it could be combined with a pole barn structure. How would you insulate around the concrete columns without disturbing the hard pack dirt? It's probably a total novice question. BTW, I've never built a house or a pole barn, just trying to learn. Please don't think I'm trying to challenge anybody. I'm definitely no expert. :)
@@ThunderDog This concept is only for when you build on top of the slab. At the edge of the foundation and where you will have loadbearing walls the concrete is 8 inches thick instead of 4. Also the styrofoam in the outer part of the foundation is U shaped and has like a 1 inch thick concrete layer "glued" to it so from the outside it looks really good, except for the seems every 4 foot becuase thats how long the styrofoam sheet/U-shaped part is. Hope i explained it well hehe..
I had to chuckle at this video a little bit because there are far more than 5 important points as you mentioned several times. I am glad to see someone who can do "unscripted" videos. They can be far more difficult to manage, GREAT JOB again!
always buy insulated garage doors. absolutely worth the money. even on your own house its worth it. saves a good bit
I am a spray foam contractor and I couldn’t agree more with why you’re not using foam .. well done !!
Any concern with voids under the rat board when they bring in the fill? I'm thinking in terms of compaction, settlement & possible voids under the board. Not concerned with the building resting on the fill, just voids under the board.
Also, if you make a book on how to build post frame buildings, I'd pay $100+ for it. Excellent work. "I have never seen that level of quality in post frame buildings ever" - my Dad.
On my personal pole barn, which I built, I used metal roofing that had a thin layer of synthetic fibrous material sprayed to the underside of the metal. My building is uninsulated and there is no condensation dripping from roof panels. Any condensation adheres to the fabric and evaporates. Cost was an additional $1 sf. Dampens sound of rain as well. Your videos are well detailed and informative. Well done. 👍🏻
Yes that’s good stuff
Down here in Ky. we insulate the perimeter of the slab with 2" rigid foam board and sometimes under the slab. That keeps the edges of the slab warmer when it is cold.
thermal break is always wise in any concrete foundation as you see why and thus why I would use ICF for foundation forms for this very reason as it does three steps in one.
good video and building tips. I built passive house style homes in michigan in the 80's and 90's. While mathematically folks will agree with your thoughts on "diminishing returns" . However while building new , it is the least costly time to make any structure , low cost to operate over the lifetime. I built residential . My best home , 4000 square feet, 2 story , slab on grade. Heated and cooled in michigan , $250.00 for the year. After a few articles where printed on that home. The state of michigan hired me to teach all the technical school instructors how to build homes without furnaces. 99% off the shelf materials for the homes. Most fuel costs will not be getting lower over the years , from the data and commodity prices I keep track of over the last 30 years of building . I know you are talking about a working barn building . But many DYI folks are building pole barn homes as their resident . Because of the lowest cost per sq ft framed and finished. Great tips for folks. Blown in is so cheap to add plenty the first time around. Keep up the great work . Building science is constantly getting better , as are the great folks like you , sharing what you know and do .
Thanks Kyle for the information, I’ve been going around in circles up here in northern Michigan and I like what you said and explained, Thanks again! Thanks Greg you did a fine job also!
If you lived down in Louisiana I have you build a building for me. You did nice detailed work, seem to be well informed on materials used, and that's coming from a guy who remodels house for a living. Keep up the good work, it's good to see some one who takes pride in what they do!
Thanks Mike I appreciate that
I have owned and built several outbuildings, great tips for constructing a new one. One thing you didn't mention is that fiberglass is a great place for rodents to nest in. I grew up in northern IL and live in southern WI now and mice are a big problem in pole barns and love to burrow in fiberglass. I have found that over time fiberglass eventually settles, absorbs moisture, and is full of rodent feces and urine...many a day in a hazmat suit tearing the stuff out has taken me over to the foam side :) Nice video!
So whatcha think..foam?
Foam is awful high...maybe 3 times the price because you are at the mercy of a whole industry setting prices,since you cant do it yourself...mouse terrds are outside my sheetrock
@@metalrooves3651 Blown in cellulose with rodenticide is a good affordable option for pole barns. You could even flash (1" inch of foam) and blow in the rest. One other nice thing is you can remove it by just sucking it out if you ever have to. Maybe foam will come down in price after all the pandemic craziness...? I've never used Rockwool, that might be ok but it is pricey too now. I just know I will never use fiberglass again :)
Love that you understand and share that tech is region-dependent, even just in the USA.. so overlooked most of the time, with guys from Maine and Florida arguing about where the vapour barrier should go.. *rollseyes*
What sucks about these videos is it just makes it that much more daunting to find a local builder you trust. I've seen enough about how you build and how you think about solving problems that makes me want to hire you. But there's no way I can get that level of comfort from a 15 minute sales speech locally. Anyway, love the videos, keep 'em coming. And start working in SE Wisconsin. :)
Love the videos and your techniques. Up here in Wisconsin I never advise a flash and batt set up. 1” of closed cell spray foam is a class A vapor barrier and up here anytime fiberglass is used your required to have a vapor barrier on the inside too this creates a moisture trap. If your going to spray foam its advised to spray enough so the dew point is in the foam. This means at lease 50% of your r value needs to be in foam so moisture doesnt condense. Keep up the awesome work!! Im glad your customers have you and your work ethic!
My thinking is that a vapor barrier is not necessary when steel liner is used but am open to being shown otherwise. There are two ways for water vapor to enter the wall cavity. The first being Vapor diffusion from the warm moist area to the cold dry area. The second is air leakage. A vapor barrier is meant to address the diffusion mechanism but it may not be effective for air sealing. The reason I don’t think it is needed with steel liner panel is because steel in and of itself is a vapor barrier. It is not like drywall or plywood or osb in which vapor can travel through. I’d love to hear other thoughts.
Seen pictures (images) on a few blogs showing how the wood behind the steel got moldy due to moisture but also mainly to poor ventilation, its a common misconception due to those living in less humid areas than that to those living in moisture prone areas such as for me in MA, it is wise to build the way he does and not adding tape to the vapor barrier as doing so does not allow the wall to breathe enough to prevent/reduce the chance of mold growing in the wall. Even including felt on the roof would help reduce the chance of mold growing on the wood structure where it can get humid and thus moist enough for mold to grow.
Excellent video, you obviously know your business! I’m in central Canada, in the City of Winnipeg, which is also referred to as “Winterpeg”. I have lived all over the place, and have renovated 8 houses, in some very diverse climates. I have never seen a frame style as you demonstrate in this video, but I can definitely see some benefits to the design. The use of heavier structural members in much wider spacing is far more economical than “stick frame”, and associated labour costs would be much lower accordingly. I’d be concerned about wind and snow loading in my region, with spans that wide. Gust damage would be a real threat in many parts of the Province of Manitoba.
Regarding your dramatically reduced number of Roof Trusses; I’m not certain that a design with that configuration of rafters and trusses would pass a Permit inspection here. One really great advantage to this design is all that space in the loft area. I’ll wager that you could convert that into usable climate controlled space, with the addition of roof airflow channels attached to the bottom of the rafters, covered by thin panel Foam insulation and drywall.
Anyway, I really enjoyed seeing how things are done in your region, thank you for posting this!
Kyle, why don’t you use cellulose insulation? You can hard pack the walls when you insulate the ceiling. The reason I suggest it is cellulose is far more forgiving when it gets damp and holds its R value even when it is wet. It is also a fire retardant and the boric acid is a pest and mold deterrent.
Love the videos!
Kyle Nissen
I hadn’t thought of that. Have you seen this in the field?
If I ever have a building like this built, you guys will be the builders. Total respect for all you do.
Kankakee County must be in you service area.
That 1 dislike just irks me..... why? Anyway, great video Kyle. I'm not in construction but I truley enjoy watching you do what you do. Very entertaining. The shear pride you take in your work is contagious. You make most of us want to thrive for perfection.
Thanks Chris appreciate that
I think the vapor barrier is the way to go. I wish our builders in NC build like you. Great job!
Love seeing you delve into building science and the hows & whys of building configuration!
Thanks for the nice detailed video. I don't build in your region, but my first thought on vapor/rats/air infiltration is to use SIPs. Perhaps a full SIP enclosure, including roof, and then use furring strips on the outside of it to attach siding, metal, composite, whatever.
If you screen the bottom to prevent bugs etc, you can build in natural air flow between the two, and negates the need for anything else....as I envision it at least.
Did exactly this on my timber frame. It works great. During the summer when the heat is bearing down on the outside the hot air rises up and cool air comes in the bottom. Makes a big difference in how hot the shop gets.
@@rexmundi8154 cool. I am building an addition, and I am just putting up T111 plywood, and closed cell foam. No vapor barrier, nothing. My area is dryish, and has little prolonged dampness.
Hey Kyle, i know this video is old, but i see that you switched to spray foam. Care to talk about what made you switch? I assume it is customer to customer, but thought you might have some things to talk about.
Yes please... thx
Pretty good explanation. The truss is called a raised heel truss. The only thing that is better than a metal door is a fiberglass door with a foam core, just as strong as metal and better insulating and more resistant to dents. You can also put 2" thick hard foam boards under the slab all along the perimeter if you want more insulation. The 8' on center studs is a good idea. each wood stud only gives R7, it's called a thermal bridge.
Actually wood is only R1 per inch
Me too, never ever in life have used spray foam insulation. It is enough to know, from what kind chemicals spray foam is made, and no any question more.
Built my house 19 years ago with spray foam insulation and have no problems and I live on a hill where the wind always blows and it's sealed up everything can't think of a problem other than being dense it may transfer sound through the wall easierwhich is not a problem for us since we live in the middle of 80 acres
I don't think you know what chemicals are involved in the production of SPF. It is the healthiest, most durable, and most efficient insulation product available. Do you have health problems relating to the cushions in your car, your couch, or chairs? How about other plastics in your home, office, or car?
That said, this presenter is very articulate, and is clearly an excellent framer, but does lack in building envelope knowledge. House wrap is known as your water resistive barrier. Vapor barrier always goes on the inside of the conditioned space. 2 inches of closed cell spray foam will be comparable in cost (probably a little more) to, and vastly outperform 5 inches of fiberglass batts. The best value in the structure in this video would be 2 inches of cc foam in the walls, and R-49 in the attic. The foam creates an air barrier that the rest of the wall assembly does not provide and will stop convection which is how the vast majority of your energy leaves a building.
As a former contractor sales men. It's nice to see a contractor that takes pride in his work. A verbal Pat on the back, well done.
Thanks dave
Your "attic air deflectors" have a cardboard equivalent ready made product here in Sweden. It's all based on 4foot/120cm spaced trusses.
Love your channel and found it inspiring while building my own 40x100feet/12x30.5m shop. Quite a bit different from post frame but still! It's a steel sheeted wood frame on a concrete slab (built first) with 8inch/20cm polystyrene insulation below, as well as high strength polystyrene extending beyond the slab to prevent frost from pushing the foundation up. Walls and inner ceiling have 8inch/20cm rock wool sheet insulation and then cellulose fiber is added in the attic as a final step. Doors are large industrial side hinged doors from Findoor insulated with 60 mm PU foam. Heating is through 1000 meters of floor heating using a 16kW heat pump fed by 2x200 meter holes drilled straight down into bed rock. It's great to keep the cold out. :)
wow that sounds like an awesome shop! well done
Nice details, all your tips, are Canadian building code. We use thin foam ventilation baffles. Vapour barrier is critical, the moist warm air in your home hits a dew point in your cold walls, and turns to moisture. Your house wrap soffit curtain also prevents your blown in from getting wind washed. Love the simplicity of a steel building.
Great videos and tips. I’m considering this type of building to replace the old barn. You’ve alluded to it but I couldn’t find it in other videos. Could you show how you actually seal the bottom of the building to the ground in this series? Keep up the excellent work.
Built my house 8 years ago and went with 2” of spray foam and 3” of fiberglass insulation. It works fantastic most times i cant tell if its wind or raining outside heating bill is next to nothing for 4500 square feet. All radiant in entire home, basement and garage. Best of both worlds
Dear Kyle, There's a Government website " Design guide for frost protected shallow slabs on grade." I found it when I had to build a goat barn/dairy here in Mass. They researched this in places like Alaska and published this PDF free of charge.
I did use their design and after 10 years, have not seen any heaving or frost infiltration. That's the only area in your approach that gives me some concern. Love to watch your vids. You've got a good thing going....the constant traveling must suck but no job is perfect. John B.
lukula
Please post a link to the web page
Hi Brian, Just type in "Design Guide for frost protected shallow foundations or FPSF". The HUD, PDF site is first on the list. This one is free to access and download but i noticed many pay to see sites below it.
Just a couple of points I'd like to add. Im a few hours north of you, so I realize that some dynamics are a bit different, but one issue we've seen with the flash and batt system, is you end up with a vapor barrier near the outside of the wall, which can lead to condensation within the batt. For that reason, we typically will reccomend at least 2" of foam, to have enough thermal resistance outside that vapor barrier to prevent dewpoint from falling within the batt. What we've found up here is that heating costs with fiberglass are about double what they are with foam, so if a person is only heating the shop to 45 degrees, and the heating cost is a couple hundred bucks a season, foam may very well not pay off, but if its heated to 70, it may very well make sense. The other factor that comes into play with fiberglass, or any air permeable insulation, is convective looping. Warm air at the inside of the wall rises through the insulation, while cold air at the outside of the wall falls, causing accelerated air, and therefore heat, exchange within the cavity. This in one of the key ways that foam helps with energy conservation, but again, should be evaluated on a case by case basis. One of the commenters mentioned foam for sound transfer resistance, and in our experience, foam is not a good sound barrier. Fiberglass will deaden sound substantially better than foam will.
Such great advice, thank you for taking the time to help educate me!
2 yrs ago I put a post frame up for my race shop, I run a spray foam truck have for the last 15yrs. So when it came installation I did it the same as you. Spray foam is over sold it has its place and most sale guys don't realize that. I used ribbed panel metal siding. I made sure that I canned foamed all the corners plus door openings, and the inside of the buildings bottoms of the ribs. It was built with 4×6 post so when I framed up my walls: 2×4, I framed them even with the 4×6 post 16 on center, that gave 6in from face of the post to the sringers then ran R-19 in the walls. I ran drywall on walls and lid with a R-38 in the attic. I ran a 10ft wide insulated steel overhead garage door. I kept the door size down because if you don't need a 16ft don't buy one it's just a bigger hole you have in the building and it cost more. Spray foam is a awesome product when used properly. Unless you're going to be living in it, you can insulate a post frame building efficiently by using the right procedures and materials while saving money at the same time. Keep in mind there is a R-21 batt the owens makes, it comes in standard sizes and widths. My advice after 15yrs in the insulation biz, everything has its place do your homework! And it doesn't hurt get 2-3 estimates when doing a project just to keep them honest and to get the best deal.
Good video and I agree with the batt over Foam for the ext walls if your not looking to spend a lot of money but I'm not sure how it holds up because I've never put a moisture barrier on the inside of the wall to seal in the batts but I would have thought that to be a bad idea just because if the batts were ever to get wet or moisture find a way inside. the batts wouldn't dry out very well and shorten the life of the insulation. Personally I prefer closed cell in all pole buildings because it also strengthens the structure. Like I said though great video looks like a tremendous job and quality craftmanship!
i agree with your spray vs. batt. spray is a good choice when you need it to act as a vapour barrier or when you're up against stone/concrete. also contributing to cost & return on investment, spray really needs to be done professionally because it can be a disaster for mold or whatever if not done properly while batts can be installed pretty easily by help crew..
Great video, Kyle. I really appreciate that you take such care when trying to make these building so energy efficient.
Very informative video. Someone should make a video on how to winter proof a building in northern MN.
Hi Kyle, thank you so much for the info! I'm an interior design student and we're learning about different construction systems for buildings. I have found a lot of the videos on UA-cam that the professionals record, use a lot of technical terms that people working in that industry would know; but for people just learning about it all for the first time, it makes it a bit difficult to understand. I like how well you explain things, and take your time going back to the basics of the structures (e.g when you explained the trusses) but there was still a lot I didn't quite understand- like R values and the areas you build- how you have to accommodate for that. Do you think you could make some simple building/construction videos for total beginners who want to learn about the construction methods fo buildings? That would be so amazing :D
Check out any book by Francis D. K. Ching.
I'm definitely going to look more into how to prevent condensation here in Texas. My parents unfortunately, every year are having huge leaks in their living room ceiling, same area every time. They have a 1930's home but it had only been remodeled inside, not outside which from your video, is where our problem is.
If you're getting condensation that means moist air (outside air in Texas) is getting into the house and meeting a colder surface (HVAC space) allowing the water to come out of the air. Find the air leak.
Also, did they put an AC in the attic? Make sure the water isn't coming from the condensate line off the AC.
Ben Madison, thanks for the reply. The AC unit is in the attic and from what my mom has explained, my dad, has to take the water hose (?) up into the attic and flush something. I'm now thinking it is exactly what you thought. The condensate line is leaking
If they get in the habit of running white vinegar or bleach down that line it'll stop the sludge that builds up in there and keep him from having to unblock it so often. Use white vinegar unless you know it drains into a sink within the house.
Ben Madison, I will definitely pass this along to them. I don't think it drains to a sink within the house. Hopefully this helps them and they can have a nice looking ceiling. Thank you so much for the tips and help!! You're awesome
2 points:
1- another incredible informative video
2- entertaining as always
3- you're really bad at counting
I have 1 point... errr 2 points.. .errr 3.....
Point 1 - blah blah
Point 2 - blah blah blah
Point 3 - ... oh wait #2 was #2 & #3 :) :) :)
Still best videos out there:)
Lol I see what you did there.
There are 3 kinds of people in the world.
Those who can count, and those who can't.
I AM SURE YOU MISCOUNTED INTENTIONALLY! LOLGlad to see the humor in some of the replies.
We all wish when we had a project, there was a craftsman as conscientious as you on the job. Excellent detail. I have had the pleasure of working around a few great craftsman. I am not worthy ;-)
Wow, nice info. Thank for taking the time to explain in detail.
Absolutely my favorite You Tube channel Kyle! You are clear and concise in your explanations and like I always say, you're a perfectionist! I also like how you treat your men. You are a great businessman as well as a SUPERIOR BUILDER!
thanks doug I do my best and truly am blessed to do what I do
Blessed by the BEST☝🏻
What interior ceiling panels do you use to hold that R38 blow in insulation? If I missed it, I am very sorry. Thanks in advance!
Awesome video! Excellent communication and attention to detail. Focusing customers needs, and providing people with the most for their money. Taking it one step further to collaborate with other people in the industry. Ive seen that same insulation with a vapor barrier already attached to it here in NY. We use R-19 in our walls too. The stuff looks like a blanket.
In the climates where you risk the ground along the wall freezing and the frost going under the slab, lifting and cracking the concrete, you can use XPS Extruded Polystyrene for ground insulation.
You look at the frost depth in your area, and this will be how far out from the wall you will need to insulate. If the frost goes 10" or 20", you need to insulate minimum of 10" or 20" out from the wall. Think of frost as following the radius of a circle.
Lol, not necessary. Nice, but not required at all.
@@warrenmatheson563 We see freezing temperatures on average from October to April in large parts of Sweden. Code is to use standard sheets of XPS extending 2feet/60cm and twice that on the outside of corners of the slab, if not it WILL push the foundation up and potentially you get a crack in the slab depending on your construction.
@@ixer76 no it won't if you have enough base and rebar. I'm in Canada.....we have pole-buildings everywhere.....and we have cold too. Just cause because it's code in Sweden, doesn't mean anything. Foam on the outside of the slab doesn't stop a slab from moving or cracking.....unless the laws of physics have magically changed recently. It creates a thermal break and an expansion joint so that the floating slab can't accidently lift a wall post. People here have only started doing a bit of foam in the last 25 years...but the older buildings have held up just fine without it all this time.
@@warrenmatheson563 Our experiences clearly tell different stories. Our bed rock (and water table) is shallow and the ground has high clay content - which requires drainage and material to fill below the slab to break the capillary effect of water and irrigate it away from the foundation. With luck you have sand all over, it simplifies a lot of things and your physics may apply. If you don't take measures you will have too much water directly in contact with the slab and the ground surface and once it freezes you will have to use more than a lot of rebar and concrete. It might be acceptable (to a point) if you have a pole building with a floating slab, but not if your building rests on the slab.
Warren if anything as you said, solid foam insulation is more for thermal break than a slab protector, but in some cases it can protect from frost damage aka upheaving cracks i some types of geology.
I live in Georgia. Vapor barriers are an absolute necessity down here! I'm looking at your work behind you. Squared away, pro job.
I'm confused, Wasn't your last video about how much you favored spay foam insulation?
Thing is, if you want to insulate the concrete floor, foam boards make it easy. You put them on the outside of your building between the dirt and the concrete, and your concrete is now insulated from the outside (at least as low as the frost line). Ideally another layer would be put under it too, to really make that concrete warm, but it's already a big improvement. When they started doing this in Canadian homes, there was a big improvement in the warmth of the basement. Sounds like it's not as cold there, so probably not needed under.
It's not necessary to have blown foam in the whole space, a light coating of 1", or even just around all the cracks, will stop the air flow, which is the biggest problem. After that, the rest of the insulation is whatever you prefer. Keep in mind the studs are dropping your insulation value though. Building code usually allows a spacing of 24" between them, and that's best for insulation. Two layers of studs straddled would also help but not going to be best value for sure.
In cold climates, the vapor barrier is a must as described. I wouldn't do it otherwise.
Hi Kyle, One option to increase the Insulation Value is adding Radiant Barrier. It is best to put it on the "Hot Side" of whatever you are trying to keep insulated. But for your buildings with the metal getting hot, you would want to put it on first, then put the House Wrap on so that you have a thermal break to prevent conduction into the radiant barrier. You do an excellent job! Just an added option. The Radiant Barrier will give your buildings an even greater "Thermos Effect".
thanks for the idea.
Your welcome
Great videos, the care and pride you take in your work is amazing. Wish I could tear my barn down and have you come build a new one in it’s place. Keep up the great work and attention to detail.
This is the guy I would want to build my shop :)
Absolutely 👍 👍
Agree! Beautiful work
R 50 in the ceilings up here. We also use a acoustical sealer (does not harden or freeze) for our vapor barrier top & bottom plates. Love the videos!! I want to try your style of barn up here we just have to go deeper for our columns or they will get pushed up by the frost.
"up here" being? Helps to say where one is from when saying "here"
@@Joshua79C If you cant figure out from the name........