Explaining what you do and why is the best advice for me at least. Really enjoy your informative content. We hope to get to your stages of construction in the future for us.
Thank you for all the work putting these videos together. I'm a new sub, soon to be a Patreon supporter. I understand that the metal siding provides the sheer strength for the exterior wall assembly but, we're here in Northern Arizona and I am considering ZIP-R for exterior sheeting (to get that little extra insulation (R3) from the Summer heat). Are there any negative repercussions to spraying CSF against OSB sheeting (on the interior) since there is a "vapor barrier" coating (in the case of ZIP) on the exterior? Or would that wall assembly create the negative (dew point driven condensation) scenario you experienced in your personal build?
Paul, we are getting ready for spray foam here in Wyoming (CODY AREA) and the guy told us that we needed to remove the vapor barrier first. Have you heard of this? 60X40 post frame build, thanks to your channel and R@R.... thanks for all that you do Brother!
When you say Vapor Barrier are you referring to the House Wrap? Some spray foamers prefer not to spray to a house wrap. We like it because it’s easier to replace a sheet of metal down the road if you don’t spray directly to the metal. Are they using closed cell?
As a foamer, we just flash the house wrap so it doesn't cause the foam to lift and buldge, if you try and put a 2 inch lift on house wrap it will pull and look awful
I watched your other video on insulating options. What happened exactly where your Rockwool got all wet? Did the spray foam crack? You mentioned it was installed incorrectly. Was it not the right temperature or something?
This is a great question and if you go to his channel he made a video about what happened in that process. Basically it was using two types of insulation products together in their specific area of the country if I remember correctly. I took a quick peek for the video and didn’t find it, maybe someone can add a link to it :)
Question for you. When you built your house, there was an issue with the spray foam. What have you done different or different steps that you have taken so that does not happen again?
It’s about picking a type of insulation and sticking with it. Here’s the video talking about the different options and the pros and cons ua-cam.com/video/JQMaIkDHFOg/v-deo.html
Why do you spray foam on the walls and blown insulation on the ceiling? Is it strictly a cost savings? I would think you would have concerns about condensation between roof and insulation.
I have recently heard some horror stories from contractors about spray foam causing massive damage in home because a small leak traps water between the foam and the wood causing massive damage while at the same time, hiding the leak from the homeowners.
ua-cam.com/video/JQMaIkDHFOg/v-deo.html Worth watching the beginning as Paul had this happen to him as well. Any building product is only as good as the installation of it. Not all spray foam applicators are created equal I suppose.
I am getting ready to start building in NJ. My barn builder said to use house wrap but my spray foam contractor told me not to. He said the house wrap will create a gap between metal and wrap causing sweat and mold issues. What do you suggest?
It all depends on your application. All our plumbing and water lines are not spray foamed. They are done after and not sealed with foam, so no issues with that.
That’s one of the best places to use it. Creating a true air seal between your living space and all the potential things you don’t want to be breathing in the shop/garage.
You are going to get a lot of condensation between the house wrap and the steel. You should have sprayed the Iso right against the steel, it's considered a vapor barrier if it's over 1.5 " thick.
Vapor barrier needs to be on the warm side of the wall in our building zone. No condensation will occur between house wrap and steel. No warm moist air from inside will be able to make it to the outside to cause condensation.
Just out of curiosity, I’ve never seen electrical rough in for a post frame build. Do you nail your receptacle boxes to the girt horizontally or do you just throw in a nailer vertically from dirt to dirt wherever there is a receptacle box located?
You can do either. Nailing to girt is most often used unless you need a box in a particular spot. You can also go through the steel with the wire and use an exterior box.
Another really good video! So given the fact that you had the problem the commenter below spoke of, I was wondering if you had to do it all again would you still spray foam? I watched Kyle from R&R buildings video on Rockwool with Majrex, and that seems to be a pretty good system as well plus it is something you can DIY as well as slightly cheaper. Was wondering what your thoughts on this are?
Thanks for the comment! This is a breakdown of the different options + why we like closed cell spray foam in spite of it all. ua-cam.com/video/JQMaIkDHFOg/v-deo.html
That Majrex alone is almost $1 per sqft.. not to mention the amount of labor it takes to install properly. Kyle is turning into Matt from the build show and only uses products that sponsor him... I'd take what he says with a grain of salt..
Like anything in construction, if not done properly it can cause issues. If you’re referring to our previous issues the issue stemmed from the spray foamer not applying at least 2” of spray foam. You can see a little more explanation and why are recommending in this video. ua-cam.com/video/JQMaIkDHFOg/v-deo.html
Man Paul, it looks like my spray foam for my build will be over $20,000? He does an excellent job of covering everything! Maybe I'll run into you and the guys at the Home Show? Take car and don't work too hard.
They are doing blown in fiberglass. He talks about it, about 6:50min in on this video. Hope this helps answer your question :) I’m sure it takes a lot of time to field all the questions they get.
Thinking out loud....if you had your interior girts on and staggered from the exterior girts you could spay foam your columns giving you a thermal break
Why are you using a barrier while using closed cell spray foam? 3" of that is well beyond minimum as a vapor barrier, and the benefit of adherence and structural integrity is gone, as well. Just wondering.
Just gotta be super careful about making sure the foam sprayed is up to spec. For those that haven't seen it, not all went to plan: ua-cam.com/video/-l75UJsMd1Q/v-deo.html
Explaining what you do and why is the best advice for me at least. Really enjoy your informative content. We hope to get to your stages of construction in the future for us.
Thanks for the comment! Here is the video on different types of insulation with cost ua-cam.com/video/JQMaIkDHFOg/v-deo.html
Great video! Big fan of CCSF
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for all the work putting these videos together. I'm a new sub, soon to be a Patreon supporter.
I understand that the metal siding provides the sheer strength for the exterior wall assembly but, we're here in Northern Arizona and I am considering ZIP-R for exterior sheeting (to get that little extra insulation (R3) from the Summer heat).
Are there any negative repercussions to spraying CSF against OSB sheeting (on the interior) since there is a "vapor barrier" coating (in the case of ZIP) on the exterior? Or would that wall assembly create the negative (dew point driven condensation) scenario you experienced in your personal build?
Did you do the blown in attic yourself or hire that out? And do you have a cost break down of that as well?
Looks like the house will be toasty.Thx Paul.
Thanks for watching
Paul, we are getting ready for spray foam here in Wyoming (CODY AREA) and the guy told us that we needed to remove the vapor barrier first. Have you heard of this? 60X40 post frame build, thanks to your channel and R@R.... thanks for all that you do Brother!
When you say Vapor Barrier are you referring to the House Wrap? Some spray foamers prefer not to spray to a house wrap. We like it because it’s easier to replace a sheet of metal down the road if you don’t spray directly to the metal. Are they using closed cell?
@@MrPostFrame Yes, house wrap as for vapor barrier. The kit came from Menards. The foam will be closed foam 2'' walls and 3'' ceiling.
As a foamer, we just flash the house wrap so it doesn't cause the foam to lift and buldge, if you try and put a 2 inch lift on house wrap it will pull and look awful
Question: Have you showed a video on how you're rough in your electrical (on the interior of your sidewalls)?
Here’s a video on our personal build ua-cam.com/video/L3gCfHl3mk4/v-deo.html
I watched your other video on insulating options. What happened exactly where your Rockwool got all wet? Did the spray foam crack? You mentioned it was installed incorrectly. Was it not the right temperature or something?
This is a great question and if you go to his channel he made a video about what happened in that process. Basically it was using two types of insulation products together in their specific area of the country if I remember correctly. I took a quick peek for the video and didn’t find it, maybe someone can add a link to it :)
Here is the video explaining it ua-cam.com/video/-l75UJsMd1Q/v-deo.html
Thanks for answering
Question for you. When you built your house, there was an issue with the spray foam. What have you done different or different steps that you have taken so that does not happen again?
It’s about picking a type of insulation and sticking with it. Here’s the video talking about the different options and the pros and cons ua-cam.com/video/JQMaIkDHFOg/v-deo.html
SO why did you put Tivak on the building?
How many man hours to get to this point?
Thank you for this information, very detailed. I’m
Wondering. Could I use attic trusses with 8’ spans?
Yes, they’ll probably need some additional engineering. Truss supplier will be able to make the proper adjustments
@@MrPostFrame thank you so much
Why do you spray foam on the walls and blown insulation on the ceiling? Is it strictly a cost savings? I would think you would have concerns about condensation between roof and insulation.
Are you using those fish eye lens?? Everything looks like a balloon or up close😮😮😮😮
I have recently heard some horror stories from contractors about spray foam causing massive damage in home because a small leak traps water between the foam and the wood causing massive damage while at the same time, hiding the leak from the homeowners.
ua-cam.com/video/JQMaIkDHFOg/v-deo.html Worth watching the beginning as Paul had this happen to him as well. Any building product is only as good as the installation of it. Not all spray foam applicators are created equal I suppose.
Thanks for adding this!
I am getting ready to start building in NJ. My barn builder said to use house wrap but my spray foam contractor told me not to. He said the house wrap will create a gap between metal and wrap causing sweat and mold issues. What do you suggest?
I will also say I have watched most of your videos leading up to my build which is to start in June of 23...
@@ashleydiguglielmo9292 Do not use house wrap.
I like spray foam for the r value but i have heard alot about it trapping water and rotting the wood
It all depends on your application. All our plumbing and water lines are not spray foamed. They are done after and not sealed with foam, so no issues with that.
Why do you use closed cell on a space that is going to covered up and where you would be able to fit enough open cell to adequately insulate?
Here are some thoughts on different types of insulation and why we do what we do ua-cam.com/video/JQMaIkDHFOg/v-deo.html
Would you recommend spray foam on common wall between house and shop or would batts be sufficient?
That’s one of the best places to use it. Creating a true air seal between your living space and all the potential things you don’t want to be breathing in the shop/garage.
Yes as the other comment says it’s a good seal between the two spaces
You are going to get a lot of condensation between the house wrap and the steel. You should have sprayed the Iso right against the steel, it's considered a vapor barrier if it's over 1.5 " thick.
Vapor barrier needs to be on the warm side of the wall in our building zone. No condensation will occur between house wrap and steel. No warm moist air from inside will be able to make it to the outside to cause condensation.
@@MrPostFrame Condensation is a relentless force that never sleeps, it will find a way in.
Just out of curiosity, I’ve never seen electrical rough in for a post frame build. Do you nail your receptacle boxes to the girt horizontally or do you just throw in a nailer vertically from dirt to dirt wherever there is a receptacle box located?
You can do either. Nailing to girt is most often used unless you need a box in a particular spot. You can also go through the steel with the wire and use an exterior box.
Here is from our personal build ua-cam.com/video/L3gCfHl3mk4/v-deo.html
This is the entire electrical playlist ua-cam.com/play/PL3QM32YjSVn10cnZ2UAiJnEnWJPYTXm3H.html
Another really good video! So given the fact that you had the problem the commenter below spoke of, I was wondering if you had to do it all again would you still spray foam? I watched Kyle from R&R buildings video on Rockwool with Majrex, and that seems to be a pretty good system as well plus it is something you can DIY as well as slightly cheaper. Was wondering what your thoughts on this are?
Thanks for the comment! This is a breakdown of the different options + why we like closed cell spray foam in spite of it all. ua-cam.com/video/JQMaIkDHFOg/v-deo.html
That Majrex alone is almost $1 per sqft.. not to mention the amount of labor it takes to install properly. Kyle is turning into Matt from the build show and only uses products that sponsor him... I'd take what he says with a grain of salt..
@@FJB2020 I hear that, but the video with the blower door test put up some pretty impressive sealing stats, plus there is the whole toxic thing.
I thought this application of the foam went south bc of gaps in the foam?
Like anything in construction, if not done properly it can cause issues. If you’re referring to our previous issues the issue stemmed from the spray foamer not applying at least 2” of spray foam. You can see a little more explanation and why are recommending in this video.
ua-cam.com/video/JQMaIkDHFOg/v-deo.html
Man Paul, it looks like my spray foam for my build will be over $20,000? He does an excellent job of covering everything! Maybe I'll run into you and the guys at the Home Show? Take car and don't work too hard.
Thanks we have been at another show in Kentucky!
What about the roof?
They are doing blown in fiberglass. He talks about it, about 6:50min in on this video. Hope this helps answer your question :) I’m sure it takes a lot of time to field all the questions they get.
This project will have blown in fiberglass in the attic spaces.
$1.50 a board foot isn't too bad. I sure miss the $1 a board foot days..
What city do you live in ?
Des Moines, IA area
❤❤❤👌👌👌👍👍👍💪💪💪💯
Thanks for watching!
Thinking out loud....if you had your interior girts on and staggered from the exterior girts you could spay foam your columns giving you a thermal break
Why are you using a barrier while using closed cell spray foam? 3" of that is well beyond minimum as a vapor barrier, and the benefit of adherence and structural integrity is gone, as well. Just wondering.
Spray foam guy is making some serious cash. Probably 3-4k of that went into his pocket for a one day job.
Surprised not seeing any cross bracing in the walls.
Ya I wondered why that is also, with a 1.5" difference to start with, either the foam on the girts is thin or everything else is thicker than 3".
Just gotta be super careful about making sure the foam sprayed is up to spec. For those that haven't seen it, not all went to plan:
ua-cam.com/video/-l75UJsMd1Q/v-deo.html
Yes!