How to Stain American Flag Woodworking Projects (Part 2) New formula solid or semi-transparent?
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- This is an update to my How to Stain American Flag Woodworking Projects video. In this video, I try some new techniques suggested by viewers and do a head-to-head comparison of the original Minwax stain formula versus the the new semi-transparent and solid color stain formulas in Scarlet and True Blue -- and one of them is a clear winner! If you're wondering how to apply the new formula stain and get the same easy results as with the old formula, you need to watch this video!
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I wish I had seen this video 2 days sooner. Just got some of the semi-transparent stain while it was on sale at Sherwin-williams. I've been trying to find a stain that will hold up better in the sun. People like to put them in the sun. Another flag maker at a show said they use oil-based and it holds up well. I plan on testing the 2 new formulas and oil-based. I do finish with total boat's halcyon for uv protection. The stains i've been using are Plaid's Ultra Dye, Transtint, unicorn spit, whitewash, and then recently just thining out paint. I also do a full burn and clean them off for my flags.
Well, the good news is you can still use that stain, it's just a pain to apply and get the results you want. I cover my technique in the first one of these 2 videos. As far as outdoor use, it's only going to be as good as the finish you use on it. I've never used the total boat stuff, but regardless of how effective it is, it will require constant maintenance like anything else. How constant is a matter of how good it is, but more importantly the level of harshness of the environment. Alot of direct sunlight will break anything down rather quickly.
I bought my stain today. Initially the paint lady said they didn’t have color 217. 217 doesn’t show up if the base is Minwax, but with Valspar as the product she was able to put in the formula you have in the video. Then she used the cntrl T to override the product and whala the computer was mixing. Thanks for the info, the Scarlet is a great color.
I'm glad you were able to get it.
Hi do you ever use synthetic brushes?
Not for staining. I only use foam brushes for that because they're much cheaper and I can re-use them for quite a while with the sandwich bag trick. I've used brushes for finish like poly, but I don't care for poly much, and I prefer to spray or buff in my finishes, like lacquer and rubio. I'll be using poly on an upcoming video for an outdoor build, but I'll be spraying that on.
I lost the video that you gave us the stain code to get the correct color for the true blue and the scarlet.
Will you Please post it again. Or give us the codes in the reply to this comment.
THANKS 😊😊
It's still there, it's the part 1 video (this is the part 2). I don't know if I can, but I'll try to leave a link to it below for you. Also, if you go to the "Community" tab on my channel page, I posted pictures of the scarlet and true blue with the new labels. If you're still having trouble finding either of those, email me at maverickdesignswoodworking@gmail.com and I'll send them to you.
ua-cam.com/video/h6nWCwL0iME/v-deo.htmlsi=CpBqrRIDHTusC0jf
Very informative. Thank you
You're welcome!
Thanks for your hard work! This is the route I am going with my Flag I fixing to build. God bless.
Thank you for watching, and good luck with that flag!
Great comparison, thanks for taking the time! 👏
No problem. I needed to do it for myself as well, lol.
Awesome info thanks, I'll be changing my formula now, And thinning my semi trans stain untill I need more
Glad it was helpful, Vince!
Great Video! I am glad I saw this video first,I was trying to decide between the semi-transparent and solid. You've sold me on the solid. Thanks!!
Yeah, I've been using it for a while now, and I wish I'd known about it sooner myself, because I struggled through a few cans of the transparent before I figured it out. If you're making flags, the original video (this was an update) tells you how to get the colors.
Question...you may have said it and i somehow missed it..but for the NEW ...SOLID...to get the True Blue and carlet shades do you still need to ask the employee to do your Control T or Valspar method to get the shade you suggest?
Yes. Those colors aren't normally available with the new formula stain. They'll have to "trick" the system with the Valspar can to get them to come up.
2nds question....so...if they have to put in the Valspar...can you just get Valspar stain in those colors...why use Valspar then get them to put it in Minwax cans. As you can tell I am such a newbie...its probably obvious but I am being thick headed
The Valspar isn't stain, it's paint. They just need to scan that can in to trick the system into finding the color code you need. But you'll want to dispense the color into the stain can unless you want colored paint instead.
I want to send a huge shout out to Matt for his tutorial video on the bottle cap openers and the crosses. I just made 17 each to take to my next gun show here in Tulsa on the 1st and 2nd of April
Thanks Steve! It's Tom, not Matt, though, lol. I hope you do well with them! Post some pics in the Facebook group, I'd love to see them.
I am thinking $30 on the crosses and $20 on the bottle cap openers. This is the biggest show in Oklahoma with around 35,000 coming and over 2,000 vendors
@@maverickdesignswoodworking Sorry Tom I thought it was Matt. What do you think of my pricing?
I sell the crosses for 45 and the bottle openers for 35. I wouldn't go any lower than 35 and 25.
I just saw the pics, Steve. Those look awesome! Great job!
So when I go to Lowe’s I tell them to do the trick and that I want solid? Sorry a bit confused still on how to get the color. 😊
I took a screenshot from your first video
Yes, you need to have them scan the other can to pull up the color codes, then mix it into the minwax can. Solid gives the best results in my opinion.
Thanks for the reply. I don’t have another can for them to scan.
I mean the non minwax stain can. I think it was valspar (it's in the video). The color codes for at least one color can't be found when they scan in the minwax can. They have to scan in the other can, pull up the codes, then dispense the color into the minwax can instead of the one they scanned.
Excellent! Thank you for your video. I only wish I had seen it before buying three cans of the semi-transparent. 😂
I did the same. But that stuff is so hard to apply properly that I replaced it with solid and I'll keep it as back up for a while, but the truth is I'll probably never use it and eventually chalk it up as a loss and toss it. There just aren't enough hours in the day for me to struggle through the application of that stuff when the solid is so much easier.
Try adding mineral oil to thin in .
I'm not sure that would work with water based stains like these, but maybe with oil based?
@@maverickdesignswoodworkingdenatured alcohol or just water?
I just used water.
I wish I had watched this before doing my project! I used the slate blue solid and semi transparent as I wanted some deep/darker on the trim of my cabinet and then the door faces to be more transparent and just the grain marks to be blue. They were like the exact opposite. The semi was so thick it colored my door faces uneven and dark. The solid was so thin that I ended up painting in on in layers and not wiping it at all. I had to fix the whole cabinet but whitewashing over it, which made it more distressed. I wanted to match my dining room table to the cabinet. So I'll go about the table differently and hopefully achieve what I wanted!
Oh wow, I'm sorry to hear that. Yeah, Minwax really messed up with this new formula, in my opinion. Lowes told me they reformulated it to make it easier for beginners to use, but it's had exactly the opposite effect in my opinion. It's not only more difficult to use, but like you said, it doesn't seem to work as intended and is just an inferior product (specifically the semi transparent). The solid stain does work well for semi transparent applications, much like the original formula, as you have already figured out. I hope everything comes out good on your table.
Thank you very much for this; really appreciate you taking the time. When I’m ready for the solid stains can I simply show Lowes the formula labels on the transparent stain cans to go by?
Yup, that should do it. In fact, when I bought these, I didn't bring the cans and they struggled for a few minutes to do it again.
I do the same thing to Varathane Polyurethane oil based , clear gloss. It’s very expensive so when I cut it in half it works great and I get twice the amount. Remember 50% Polyurethane , 50% Mineral Oil.. do the same with your Stain try it first with a few spoon full. Please let me know if this works
I'm sure that works with oil based poly, but these are water based stains, which is why I thinned them with water, though not 50/50.
Thank for the reply I’ll let you know
Good Morning ! Amazing video you had mentioned in a previous reply that you would be posting a photo of the code from the label that they put on when they mix it for the new solid stain . I can't seem to find it could you please let me know where to look . Thanks
Thanks, Tony! Yeah, thank you for reminding me about that, I just forgot. When I get home later this evening I'll be working with those stains (making another batch of crosses for some upcoming events), so I'll get a picture of those labels and share them as a post that you should see in your feed if you're subscribed and getting all notifications. If not, you'll find it on the channel's community tab.
Hey Tony, I'm really sorry for the delay, but I just wanted you to know that I finally posted the pics of those new labels. If you don't see the post in your feed, you can find it on the community tab on my channel. Hope that helps!
care to share the code from the label that they put on when they mix it then we can just use that to get the correct tint added and seems to be less a hassle to explain to the employee in the paint dept
Sure. I'll post a picture on the community page when I get a chance.
Hey Bubba, I'm really sorry for the delay, but I just wanted you to know that I finally posted the pics of those new labels. If you don't see the post in your feed, you can find it on the community tab on my channel. Hope that helps!
Great video. Do you happen to know the code for True Blue? When i mention the color to Lowes they look at mr cross eyed. Thanks
Yes. This is actually an update to the original video, (which came out like 3 videos before this one) where I give you all the codes and instructions to get the colors. I have also posted a picture of the new label on the can after using the "trick" described in that video to get true blue. I'll paste the link to that video below, and you can see the picture from that post on the community tab on my channel page.
ua-cam.com/video/h6nWCwL0iME/v-deo.html
The true blue code is 115, but you'll need to walk them through "tricking" the system in order for them to find it, which is described in that previous video.
Make it fifty fifty then if it works you will have double the amount . Bye and extra empty can in Lowe’s mix it fifty fifth and shake the can with the cover on of course.
I try that if I use an oil based stain again.
I'm looking to make a 12' x 8' flag to mount to the side of my garage. Is the stain going to hold up outdoors? Direct sunlight up to 100 degrees in the summer, and snow/ice with temps down to single digits. Should some sort of UV clear be used? Should i coat the whole thing front and back with some sort of clear coat?
Nothing will hold up to those conditions very long, to be honest. The best thing would be paint, but eventually that will crack and peel off. If you want it burned and stained to look like these flags, your best bet would be to seal it with the best outdoor sealant you can find, like a spar urethane, but you're still using a film sealer that will eventually discolor, crack and peal under those conditions. You'll get the best, longest lasting results if you maintain it regularly, like sand and recoat every year.
they definitely thought I was nuts but I ended up getting the nicest lady at my lowe’s. The control T method didn’t work for the scarlet but the valspar can trick worked great.
she said she definitely needed the old scarlet code which is -
101-3, 109-3, 217-1Y6
then she scanned the valspar interior flat base can and put the minwax solid color stain can under computer for mix.
not sure if the barcode on the new minwax can means anything but this is it…
1189-A-20230518095809
thanks for this channel and good luck everyone!
That was my experience as well with the scarlet. I got it the exact same way you did. I've been back a couple times since, and unless the same lady is there I have to walk them through it again, but it does work. I'm glad you were able to get it figured out. Thanks for watching.