How to Stain American Flag Woodworking Projects (Part 1) What colors, how to get them, & application
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- Опубліковано 22 січ 2023
- This video is a supplement to all of my American flag project videos andtalks about the Minwax water based stain I use, how to get the True Blue, Scarlet, and Marshmallow colors in the new formula stain, the differences and challenges between the old and new formulas, and how to apply the new thicker formula efficiently and effectively.
I also released an update to this video that shows a comparison of of the new semi-transparent and solid stains, along with the old formula, and there was a clear winner! (Hint: it was the new solid stain) Check out that video if you want to simply apply like the old formula with great results instead of going through the hassle of applying the semi-transparent that is described in this video. Here's the link to it: • How to Stain American ...
Be sure to check out all my other videos on how to build patriotic woodworking projects incorporating the American flag, to include concealment boxes and furniture on my channel, which I will link to below as they come out. There will be more to follow as the channel matures, so be sure to subscribe so that you will be notified as the videos are released.
Amazon Affiliate links to the tools and hardware used in this build:
Bernzomatic Torch Kit: amzn.to/3uM3xqB
*As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
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#woodworking #woodworkingprojects #woodworkingideas #diy #diyprojects
I have released an update to this video that shows a comparison of of the new semi-transparent and solid stains, along with the old formula, and there was a clear winner! (Hint: it was the new solid stain) Check out that video if you want to simply apply like the old formula with great results instead of going through the hassle of applying the semi-transparent that is described in this video. Here's the link to it: ua-cam.com/video/IwwZskRpomE/v-deo.html
I appreciate you making this video!
I'm glad to hear it! Thanks for watching.
Just found your video and was impressed.thank you
Your welcome. I'm glad you got something out of it. Thanks for watching!
Great video Maverick. Keep them coming.
Thanks, Joe. Will do!
*I’m about to make my First Attempt of making a Flag. Thank You for the Good Pointers.*
Make sure you watch the part 2 update to this video. You're going to want to get the solid stain, NOT the semi transparent. That video shows you why.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking
*10-4, I’ll Check it Out!!!*
great info, i still have about half a can of the old stain, so i am good right now, thank you, and thanks about the tip on foam brushes too.
Make sure you check out the part 2 follow up to this video. It compares the old stain with the new formula semi transparent and solid stains with surprising results. Hint. The solid stain is WAY better than the semi transparent. It's all I use now.
Good Evening Mike, please let Robert, Richard & Tom, we can't forget Tom, know than
an old painter taught me you can take any shade of paint and make it into stain.
50 % paint and 50 % water mixed. Wipe on, wipe off. (wax on, wax off, if anyone needs to ask Don't)
This will raise the grain because of the water. Exprement on scrap wood to find out how long to let it stand before wiping off. This method works on everythind wood. I have been doing this for years now. We call it "Color Wash".
Please tell Tom hi for me
🤣 cool tip!
Thanks for the detailed instruction on getting this stain mixed. I f it weren't for the labels pics you included, the paint mixing girl at Lowes would not have been able to mix it. Those colors came out so nice. I'm excited to get started. Thanks again for the info and inspiration to build these crosses. I love this channel and its detailed content.😀
Thanks Scott! I'm glad you were able to get them. There really is nothing better than true blue for flags, in my opinion.
When you say "leave it for a bit" or a minute to dry before doin the crazy light wipe, what do you leave it for? Like 2 minutes? 5, 20?
Sorry that wasn't more clear, Adam. Not long. Like a minute or so. If it sits too long, especially if it's hot, it will dry up fast, and it's a pain to deal with when it starts drying because it will kind of curdle up on you. Another viewer suggested thinning the stain with water, so I'll try that soon and post an update if it makes application easier, but this method has worked well for me.
Ugh... I was you in Rockler the other day... I wish I stopped you. Anyway, Great Info...thanks
You mean you in Rockler with me the other day? You should have said hi!
Have you tried min wax navy for blue? I works really well
I haven't actually tried it, but I have looked at it on the color chart they have and thought it was too dark. There was another color I was thinking of trying before I found out I could still get true blue, but I can't remember what it was (denim, maybe?). The real color of the true blue doesn't come out the same on camera as it does to the naked eye. In person, it's a really vibrant, beautiful blue.
Hi Tom, Thanks for the video. I’m new to your channel and new to flag making as well. If Ican actually pursuade my Lowes and follow directions to get the colors right it’ll be amazing; that’s challenge number one. If I want to thin with water what ratio would you recommend to start with? If fixing the new formula to do what the original did life would be so much easier especially for me just getting into the game. Btw, I live in CA where they’re always changing formulas and yanking great finishes from the shelves. Ugh.
Lastly, what FB groups do you recommend for flag making?
I made sure to walk them through it when it wasn't busy--that's probably going to be your best bet--but the guy at my Lowes was super helpful. But it's really not that big a deal. All they need to do is scan that Valspar can in, and the codes for those colors will be available to choose. Then they just put the minwax can under the dispenser instead of the valspar can. I haven't tried thinning the transparent with water yet, but I will soon. I will probably just add very small amounts until it's roughly the consistency of the original formula. I've also seen recently that some people just get the regular solid stain, and supposedly it applies just like the original and is transparent. I plan to shoot an update video testing both of those methods--probably this weekend--and I'll let you know what I decide to go with in that. I'm also in California, in Apple Valley. I'm currently in 2 flag making groups on facebook, and one is more active than the other. One is "Wooden Flag Makers Workshop," and the other is "Patriotic wood workers, builders, and makers."
@@maverickdesignswoodworking Thanks, I'll give my Lowes a shot. Looking forward your results. Thanks for all the great info, much appreciated. I'm in Rancho btw.
@@Oakydokes Right down the hill! I shop at the Rockler in Ontario and get my lumber from Peterman in Fontana.
i used the oil base and it worked good with the red and blue still having a problem with the white
Yeah, the white is the toughest one, but with the method I showed here, it works. I haven't tried the oil-based because I can't use my finish of choice (lacquer) with it, and I really dislike using poly. Another commenter (Mark Verbruggen) mentioned earlier today that if you thin the water based with water it will work like the old formula. I'm going to try that next time, and if it works I'll post an update video.
Are the codes same as you did with the solid or is it a different code?
The codes identify the colors and will be the same regardless of which type stain your using. A bunch of people have been asking me for images of the new labels, which I kept forgetting to post, but I just did. If you don't see it in your feed, just go to the community tab on my channel page and you'll find it there. Hope that helps!
The first time i used the new type of minwax stain i thought it was more like a glaze so i treated like a glaze, i applied a thick coat then waited awhile and took a glazing brush, dry, and pulled off color till i was happy with it, kinda like dry brushing chaulk paints
Interesting. Were you happy with the overall result? Yeah, the old formula was far superior in my opinion, but I'm really stuck on the true blue. I'm guessing there are probably several ways to make this stuff work, this was just the way that was most efficient for me, and gave me the closest results to those I got with the old formula.
Yes i am happy with the results but like you said there is a bunch of was to get it done, if your happy thats all that matters! I have a furniture finishing back ground so going with the glazing technique was easy for me, I liked the old formula better also
I'm not familiar with either chalk paints or glazing, but I'm definitely willing to try it if it makes my life easier. What kind of brush is it exactly, and how dry do you let it get?
@@maverickdesignswoodworking i use a good varnish brush 100% natural bristle, apply the stain like you do with the foam brush just a bit less stain and to start let sit for 2-3 minutes or so then take the dry varnish brush and lightly brush using long strokes to start removing some of the stain, if the dry brush get to wet take a paper towel and brush off keeping the brush as dry as possible and keep dry brushing till you get it how you like it, think blending the stain to a consistent layer, keep blending till its almost dry, lightly like you do with the paper towel, with a little practice you can bang them out pretty quick, while your doing it if there is to much color just brush a little harder, if your having trouble let me know and I’ll come over and show you how i do it, I’m on Seneca in Elma just past the blue water tower bout 1/2 mile from your shop
I don’t know if to remember refabulous furniture on Seneca that was my furniture refinishing business, we also upcycled furniture and did home decor, built furniture, lots of rustic stuff, I retired a few years ago and closed the store, I still do that kind of work but now im very selective with what i take in
The first time I tried the new formula I was pretty frustrated. The second time,I thinned it with water to the consistency of the old formula with good results.
Interesting. I never thought of that! I'll try it next time. Thank you. Does it behave and apply the same as the old formula like that?
@@maverickdesignswoodworking very much so. It took two coats to get the color to my liking.
@@markverbruggen3900 That's awesome. I'm going to try it next time I stain something and I'll film it so I can add an update to this video.
So far I’ve only tried this trick on the black for a blue line flag but I’m sure the other colors would respond the same way.
Hi, I live in Tulsa, OK and I am thinking of selling my flags (19 1/2 X 37 ) at gun shows. There is a show every weekend that I can attend. What do you think of $120 each or 2 for $200 as my pricing or should I go for $100 each or 2 for $160 ? Thanks
HI Steve. It's hard to say for sure without seeing your flags or knowing anything about your local market or material costs, but if yours are similar to mine, that sounds about right to me. I sell mine in southern California for 125, for just the regular laminated stripe flags. I also make flags on the CNC that can be highly customized, and those are priced differently based on how customized they are. I think it's a great idea to sell flags at gun shows--I did 3 gun shows last year myself. I would suggest making small concealment boxes, bottle openers, and crosses as well, as those are my best sellers at gun shows (I have videos on how to make all of these--the links are in the description above). The crosses are usually my best sellers by volume, because they are the cheapest items, and there are more people looking for cool cheap stuff than custom expensive stuff. I have more videos coming soon on how to store and transport all this stuff to shows in a way that keeps them clean, protects them from damage, and makes them easy to load, unload, and set up. I also have an American flag coat rack and more concealment boxes coming up, as well as furniture and concealment furniture, so subscribe if you haven't already. Thanks for watching.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking What amount of money did you make at the gun shows and how much did you sell the bottle opener and crosses for? The gun shows here in OK and TX are well attended. I do not have a cnc machine and will built them by hand and advertise as built by a disabled Navy Vietnam veteran. Thanks for your advise
What are some of the flag building sites do you belong to?
@@stevecosby6006 Every show is different. Over the last few years, attendance has been extremely unpredictable. 3 years ago, it was shoulder to shoulder standing room only at shows here, even in SoCal, but 2 of the 3 I did last year had very little traffic, I assume due to inflation and food and gas prices, as well as some crazy gun control legislation. It also depends on what you're selling and how much you have. I didn't have time to make very many concealment boxes for the last couple shows I did, and mostly sold flags, crosses, and bottle openers, but another guy that had a literal truckload of concealment boxes made several thousand dollars. I sell the crosses for 45 and bottle openers for 35. At those last year I only made between 500 and 1000 at each, but I've made well over 2k at a good show with concealment boxes. Unfortunately, I have day job, so I don't have the time, resources, storage, or transportation capabilities to make hundreds of boxes to take with me. I hope to get there someday soon, but not yet. I have also gotten custom concealment box and furniture orders from shows.
@@stevecosby6006 I am in several groups on facebook. I'll list them below:
731 Woodworking Community
Wooden Flag Makers Workshop
Small Woodworking Shops
Patriotic Wood Workers, Builders & Makers
(and several others related to Sawstop, CNC stuff, and UA-cam creators)
*I wonder if you would have better Results with a Paint Brush vs a Sponge Brush.*
I've used both and the results are the same with stain. In fact, I could make an argument that I get better results with foam brushes. It makes a difference with paint, but not stain. Even though the foam brushes are disposable, I can get months of use out of them by keeping them bagged, and they are much more affordable.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking
*I Personally just use the same Expensive Brushes Over & Over Again.*
That works too! I have to be judicial with my time though, and it's more efficient for me to just toss them in a bag or grab a new one (in other words, I'm too lazy to clean brushes, lol).
What about adding water to thin
That's what I did in the second part of this video. As it turns out, it's better to just get the solid stain. Looks and applies like the original. Check out that second video.
I edited my post and forgot to save, when I came back to like your comment, it was gone. Anywho, what I added was that when I first began making flags, I was using foam brushes, and one of our admins in the FB group, that I am also an admin, AND one of the co-founders of, told me to try a premium brush. Mav........the difference was night and day. When I found out that Lowe's was discontinuing the old MinWax clear tint base stain I went around to 2 or 3 stores, and cleaned them out. 🤡 Needless to say, I have quite the stash. I wonder if thinning out the new stain with distilled (cleanest option) water would help the color absorb into the wood better. If it does work, pick up an empty 1 gallon paint can, pour 3 quarts of the new stain into it, along with some water, mix it all up, and you'll be set for a good while.
I've had one or two people recommend exactly that-- to thin it down with water. More frequently, and I've also seen another video on this, I'm hearing that I should just switch to the solid (non-transparent) stain. Apparently it's thinner, actually transparent, and applies like the original formula. When I get a chance I'm going to compare the 3 methods and post a video on it to update this one.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking I'm looking forward to seeing that video!!!
Use an example with little or no burned area to show how the stain works, if at all. There is too much burn area in your example with the blue.
Yeah, my reasoning behind that was that the video was specifically intended to address the staining of burned, rustic flag projects. You are right in the fact that it doesn't showcase how amazing that True Blue color really is, but it does show what it looks like when you apply it specifically for this application. The other issue with this specific video is that I was struggling with the lighting, which has an affect on how all the colors in the video look. I'm still relatively new at this and learning as I go, and lighting really is the biggest challenge for me. I'll get it figured out though.
Have you tried the minwax solid stain? Compared to the semi-transparent?
I have. I compare them both to the original formula with surprising results in the follow up to this video, Part 2.
Can you give me a screenshot of that paper, both sides of it?
What paper?
The one you were reading our cheat codes from.
Also, what is the tint base for the Marshmallow White?
@@kirksides7504 That was just a piece of paper that I had jotted some notes down on and is long gone now. All of the codes are already shown in the video, but another viewer had asked if I would show the labels on the new cans of stain, as that may help the people at Lowes out as well. I'll make some more notes from the video and post an image of them along with those new labels as a post on the community tab. I'll try to do that later this evening. As for the base, it's the same for all the colors. I now recommend the Solid Stain Base instead of the Semi-Transparent. If you haven't seen my update to this video from a few weeks ago, it shows a comparison and exactly why I made that change. Essentially, it applies and looks just like the old formula. I'm not sure why they created two formulations because they both give similar results, but the solid stain looks better and is much easier to apply.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking: how can I send you pictures? I have those new stains and I’d like to show you the flag I’ve done on recycled cedar fence boards.
@@kirksides7504 I'm glad you were able to get them. I've never tried with cedar, I'd really be interested to see how that looks! You can email them to me at maverickdesignswoodworking@gmail.com
I wish I watched this before ruining my piece!
So thick. Immediately wipe off. Didn’t work well for me.
Your description of gumming and rolling spot on. What a pain.
Getting my sander ready now. :-(
Also thank you for a great tutorial.
Watch the part 2 to this video. Basically, I tell you to use the solid stain instead of the semi transparent and compare the two. The solid works great, just like the original formula.
When you want to sell more stain, make it penetrate less and require more coats. God, I love capitalism!
Lol, Yup! Make sure you watch the update to this video though, as the solid stain works really good.
this is strictly your choice ... ive seen MANY MANY MANY other flag maker use color of blue and red other then yours that your saying are "THE COLORS"
also my both home depot and Lowes in my area NEVER HEARD OF "Marshmellow white stain..lol
You either misunderstood something or are just taking it way out of context. Either way, use whatever color you want. The colors I'm talking about here are colors that were widely used several years ago by those of us who were making flags when it first became popular, when there was a completely different formula of the minwax stain that had a completely different choice of colors, one of which was indeed marshmallow. Most of us who have been doing this for a long time still use and prefer those colors, but you have to know how to get them, which I'm trying to share with you here. That doesn't mean you have to do it. I'm just trying to be helpful because a whole lot of people were asking how to get these colors in various flag making groups on social media platforms, and a lot of people who have seen this video are now using those colors because of it. Please feel free to use any color you like.