Great video. I have a b18c honda motor im working on. I was changing the belt and installing a aftermarket harmonic balancer on the gearshaft. I didn’t have a problem lining up the cams, however, as i was installing the harmonic balancer, With the belt removed, I believe I may have moved the TDC of the main crankshaft off of its center. I cannot view the marks of the main crank because the aftermarket harmonic balancer now covers it and its far too difficult to remove now. I was planning on putting a stick in the spark plug hole to find dead center as it raises up upon moving the crankshaft, but I was concerned that the valves would be affected, so i removed the cams from its journals to avoid any valves from being bent and now im planning on turning the crankshaft (counter clockwise) measuring TDC of the camshaft in order to get it TDC. Question - Am I correct to assume that it’s important to get my maincrankshaft on TDC ? And if so, am I doing it correctly? Thanks. Any help is appreciated.
Assuming this is I the car still, and without visually seeing your crank Mark you should look or put something down into the cylnder. I would recommend a small wooden dowel or something that will move freely. Don't rotate the crankshaft all the way around but simply go back and forth in small increments slowly to verify you're at the top of the Apex of your top dead center. By removing your cams you've actually made it harder for yourself, so verify you're on your top dead center compression stroke. When your cams go back in your cam should be lining up with each other, put everything together and rotate it by hand slowly if there's any interference you'll feel the Piston touch the valve in this case you need to rotate back slightly and try again. You may be better off taking the crankshaft pulley back off and verifying with your eyes I know it's more work but you may have put yourself in a pickle. Hope this helps thanks for watching!
@@mr.chos_garage Thank you sir for your most detailed response. I respect your experienced approach. Your advice is well taken. I do have a question, you recommended not to rotate the crankshaft all the way around but to simply go back and forth in small increments. I always thought i should turn the crankshaft only one direction, counterclockwise. So you are saying its safe to move the crankshaft counterclockwise and clockwise to find the top dead center so long as its incrementally right?
Yes it's okay if you think about it nothing changes it's all in sync. The only real difference would be not getting oil into the passages cause the oil pump flows one direction. That aside yes rotating BY HAND is okay been doing it for over 20+ years. When you rotate to find TDC you will end up going past the mark (this commonly happens ), then you can go oppsite direction it find that Apex I was referring to earlier. It's the point where the Piston is all the way up, but not yet coming back down. That why I said to rotate clockwise/counterclockwise to find that point. Make sure you are on the compression stroke not exhaust. Once together rotate by hand multiple times around to verify you're have no interfearance.
@@mr.chos_garage Great advice. The way you describe your explanations are really precise and indicative of your experience. Thank you sir. Its giving me more confidence to keep working on my car. I look forward to your videos. From Los Angeles
Sorry I’m 3 years late to the party. First that motor is gorgeous amazing work. Second I need info on that alternator pulley that’s not the BS on the listing to try to sell it to you. I want to hear from someone who Runs it the differences and benefits and drawbacks
Thanks not my motor just did the work. As far as the pulley goes the aluminum is lighter than steel plus it's got windows which lighten it more. Less weight is less rotation resistance this will help allow the engine to spin up quicker. That is the main reason people switch to aluminum pulleys, (rotation mass).
Hey brother I got a question for you my man, I changed my timing belt fired her up and she’s running rough, jumpy idle & wants to stall after being revved, I checked ignition timing and it’s way off. Advancing the distributor brings it closer to 16 degree mark but it’s still ways off also the engine noticeably quiets down and smooths out. Did I mess up the TDC timing some where along the cams? I know for sure 100% I was TDC at crank but the cam gear marks were iffy I just couldn’t dial it in. The up marks were slightly cocked to the left but middle marks were pointing directly towards each other but in comparison to your cams it was maybe a tooth down lower I need your expertise brother !
If your cam gears are reading even/correct, it's possible you're a tooth off on the crank gear. Pull your plugs and rotate the crank until it's at TDC. Then check your cams. If they are off, it would appear to be that the timing has been retarded (off a tooth). That's why it smooths out when you're advancing the distributor but still not getting the desired time. Start from square one, I know it sucks but it is better than engine damage, hope this helps.
Hey brother, I’m redoing the timing just wanted to ask for your knowledge on TDC for the crank to be sure. There’s play on the compression stroke, so my question would be do I stop cranking right when position reaches peak top position or continue cranking a little bit right before/ready to start it’s down stroke? Looking foward to your reply!
I know what you're talking about. The movement you are talking about is the slack at its furthest most point TDC. New/Fresh engines dont have that as they are tight. So what I do is turn the crank, while coming up on TDC the crank mark (could) be slightly off. Try rotating the crank back (very slightly) to line up the belt as it may want to be like half a tooth off. Verify cams and install belt. Rotate full revolution and verify you have TDC and everything is in time. Check, check and recheck ! Hope this helps.
If you are rotating it by hand after a new timing belt install and its out of whack, will it bend the valves or cause damage (even though its by hand)? How will you know if your rotating it by hand that your piston hits the valves and has caused damage? Thanks.
That's a good question. It shouldn't bend the valves. You'd have to be pretty strong. With your spark plugs out rotating it by hand you should be able to feel if a piston makes any contact with a valve. Before you take anything apart, you always want to put it on top dead center and make sure that your cam marks are lined up before you even take your belt off. That will help keep from anything getting out of whack if, for some reason it does. You need to use extra care and start from the beginning and line everything up. I hope this helps. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner
IDK if this had to be a serious video but it was funny lol anyways I'm doing my timing belt and the cams don't match the left is slight pointing down and the right one is straight,but the harmonic is top dead center and the mark behind the harmonic is straight with the arrow and IDK if I should straighten the cams when I put the new timing belt so if he can enlighten me it's my first time doing a timing belt
Make sure your on TDC intake stroke. Your Cam has possibly rotated due to the valve spring pressure. You need to rotate you cam gears so the markings are horizontal with the block. Like this - -
@@mr.chos_garage Yea i see. Im doing my 1st b swap. B18b1 into a 92 civic sedan. Just yesterday im looking around doing timing. Belt kept walking on me. Probaby at some point i misplaced that piece.
If your Crank gear is stuck I'd recommend a gear puller. They can be rented of you don't have one. As for the cams the stock cams have notches and arrows pointing up or say up.
Is the belt new?, could possibly be stretched/worn slightly if not. Check and re check. Make sure your cams are lined up and verify your crank for TDC. If your cams are good, and have some slack. If the crank mark is slightly off or a tooth out, it could be the culprit. Also, the tensioner may have come loose or not enough causing the slack. There are too many variables. That's why I triple check everything, if your not 100% always verify.
2024 From Gatineau, Quebec, Canada, Thank you Brother !
Sir you are the man...I have a ls 90 hatch si...and a 66 c10
97 Prelude daily
63 C10 Race
Haha I laughed the whole time. Great educational video lol
Best video so far .
Thanks
You need to post more videos like this
the greatest video ever
Dude great vid ✌️
Love the video post more ❤
👍🏻, moved into a new home so hopfully be able to more often.
This guys hilarious, good video
Thanks for watching.
Great video. I have a b18c honda motor im working on. I was changing the belt and installing a aftermarket harmonic balancer on the gearshaft. I didn’t have a problem lining up the cams, however, as i was installing the harmonic balancer, With the belt removed, I believe I may have moved the TDC of the main crankshaft off of its center. I cannot view the marks of the main crank because the aftermarket harmonic balancer now covers it and its far too difficult to remove now. I was planning on putting a stick in the spark plug hole to find dead center as it raises up upon moving the crankshaft, but I was concerned that the valves would be affected, so i removed the cams from its journals to avoid any valves from being bent and now im planning on turning the crankshaft (counter clockwise) measuring TDC of the camshaft in order to get it TDC. Question - Am I correct to assume that it’s important to get my maincrankshaft on TDC ? And if so, am I doing it correctly? Thanks. Any help is appreciated.
Assuming this is I the car still, and without visually seeing your crank Mark you should look or put something down into the cylnder. I would recommend a small wooden dowel or something that will move freely. Don't rotate the crankshaft all the way around but simply go back and forth in small increments slowly to verify you're at the top of the Apex of your top dead center. By removing your cams you've actually made it harder for yourself, so verify you're on your top dead center compression stroke. When your cams go back in your cam should be lining up with each other, put everything together and rotate it by hand slowly if there's any interference you'll feel the Piston touch the valve in this case you need to rotate back slightly and try again. You may be better off taking the crankshaft pulley back off and verifying with your eyes I know it's more work but you may have put yourself in a pickle.
Hope this helps thanks for watching!
@@mr.chos_garage
Thank you sir for your most detailed response. I respect your experienced approach. Your advice is well taken. I do have a question, you recommended not to rotate the crankshaft all the way around but to simply go back and forth in small increments. I always thought i should turn the crankshaft only one direction, counterclockwise. So you are saying its safe to move the crankshaft counterclockwise and clockwise to find the top dead center so long as its incrementally right?
Yes it's okay if you think about it nothing changes it's all in sync. The only real difference would be not getting oil into the passages cause the oil pump flows one direction. That aside yes rotating BY HAND is okay been doing it for over 20+ years. When you rotate to find TDC you will end up going past the mark (this commonly happens ), then you can go oppsite direction it find that Apex I was referring to earlier. It's the point where the Piston is all the way up, but not yet coming back down. That why I said to rotate clockwise/counterclockwise to find that point. Make sure you are on the compression stroke not exhaust. Once together rotate by hand multiple times around to verify you're have no interfearance.
@@mr.chos_garage Great advice. The way you describe your explanations are really precise and indicative of your experience. Thank you sir. Its giving me more confidence to keep working on my car. I look forward to your videos. From Los Angeles
Thank you 👍🏻 I'm hoping to do more videos sooner than later.
Sorry I’m 3 years late to the party. First that motor is gorgeous amazing work. Second I need info on that alternator pulley that’s not the BS on the listing to try to sell it to you. I want to hear from someone who
Runs it the differences and benefits and drawbacks
Thanks not my motor just did the work. As far as the pulley goes the aluminum is lighter than steel plus it's got windows which lighten it more. Less weight is less rotation resistance this will help allow the engine to spin up quicker. That is the main reason people switch to aluminum pulleys, (rotation mass).
Diduhleee beeepboopbeep😂
🤣
Hey brother I got a question for you my man, I changed my timing belt fired her up and she’s running rough, jumpy idle & wants to stall after being revved, I checked ignition timing and it’s way off. Advancing the distributor brings it closer to 16 degree mark but it’s still ways off also the engine noticeably quiets down and smooths out. Did I mess up the TDC timing some where along the cams? I know for sure 100% I was TDC at crank but the cam gear marks were iffy I just couldn’t dial it in. The up marks were slightly cocked to the left but middle marks were pointing directly towards each other but in comparison to your cams it was maybe a tooth down lower I need your expertise brother !
If your cam gears are reading even/correct, it's possible you're a tooth off on the crank gear. Pull your plugs and rotate the crank until it's at TDC. Then check your cams. If they are off, it would appear to be that the timing has been retarded (off a tooth). That's why it smooths out when you're advancing the distributor but still not getting the desired time. Start from square one, I know it sucks but it is better than engine damage, hope this helps.
Hey brother, I’m redoing the timing just wanted to ask for your knowledge on TDC for the crank to be sure. There’s play on the compression stroke, so my question would be do I stop cranking right when position reaches peak top position or continue cranking a little bit right before/ready to start it’s down stroke? Looking foward to your reply!
I know what you're talking about. The movement you are talking about is the slack at its furthest most point TDC. New/Fresh engines dont have that as they are tight. So what I do is turn the crank, while coming up on TDC the crank mark (could) be slightly off. Try rotating the crank back (very slightly) to line up the belt as it may want to be like half a tooth off. Verify cams and install belt. Rotate full revolution and verify you have TDC and everything is in time. Check, check and recheck ! Hope this helps.
If you are rotating it by hand after a new timing belt install and its out of whack, will it bend the valves or cause damage (even though its by hand)? How will you know if your rotating it by hand that your piston hits the valves and has caused damage? Thanks.
That's a good question. It shouldn't bend the valves. You'd have to be pretty strong. With your spark plugs out rotating it by hand you should be able to feel if a piston makes any contact with a valve. Before you take anything apart, you always want to put it on top dead center and make sure that your cam marks are lined up before you even take your belt off. That will help keep from anything getting out of whack if, for some reason it does. You need to use extra care and start from the beginning and line everything up. I hope this helps. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner
Round Eye Cho!!!
🤔
IDK if this had to be a serious video but it was funny lol anyways I'm doing my timing belt and the cams don't match the left is slight pointing down and the right one is straight,but the harmonic is top dead center and the mark behind the harmonic is straight with the arrow and IDK if I should straighten the cams when I put the new timing belt so if he can enlighten me it's my first time doing a timing belt
Make sure your on TDC intake stroke. Your Cam has possibly rotated due to the valve spring pressure. You need to rotate you cam gears so the markings are horizontal with the block. Like this - -
Oh ok thank you I appreciate
Without the washer on the crankshaft the timing belt goes out by like 0.5 cm off the pulleys after some turns by hand is it ok ?
The washer helps track the belt and keeps from walking on the gear. Without it, your belt has the chance of rubbing on the cover.
What is that piece called at 6:02?
I believe im miss that...
This is a washer that keeps the belt from walking into the cover. You absolutely need to have that. Your belt will eventually rub until it breaks.
@@mr.chos_garage Yea i see. Im doing my 1st b swap. B18b1 into a 92 civic sedan. Just yesterday im looking around doing timing. Belt kept walking on me. Probaby at some point i misplaced that piece.
But what do u do without adjustable cams? And a crank on a woodruff key
If your Crank gear is stuck I'd recommend a gear puller. They can be rented of you don't have one. As for the cams the stock cams have notches and arrows pointing up or say up.
What if I rotate it and it’s loose on one end
Is the belt new?, could possibly be stretched/worn slightly if not. Check and re check. Make sure your cams are lined up and verify your crank for TDC. If your cams are good, and have some slack. If the crank mark is slightly off or a tooth out, it could be the culprit. Also, the tensioner may have come loose or not enough causing the slack. There are too many variables. That's why I triple check everything, if your not 100% always verify.
Dont get them purrrty nails dirty on that pristine motor therre gayboy Cho! 😂😂😂
Wanda Power
B series are non interference btw .
I'm pretty sure nearly all are. Just for fun, I Googled it. It says all are kn multiple different pages. And since it's on the internet, it's true 😉
Dam great video. SHOWTIME!
Thanks 😊