It wont likely work the same on a timing chain because chains don't stretch and slip the same over the sprocket. You could experiment and try to find a way. I have not done it to a chain or found a way to do it on a chain. I think standard replacement on a chain will be best. ...until someone figures it out. Could be risky but if you figure it out-make a video! 😀🔧
Dude I want to marry you. Seriously, I feel like I should at least be giving you money. Been an engineer for 37 years, and this is the best, most helpful thing I have ever learned. Thanks a million.
I cant thank you enough for taking the extra time and effort of showing what other line the left cam shaft aligns with besides the cover, i got a 2009 Subaru Forester on Facebook market place with 89k miles on it, when i changed the timing belt i realized the left cam shaft cover was completely chewed off, so i had no other reference besides your video to make sure i lined up the marks for the right alignment.
This is such a life saving hack when your in the mechanic field, I can't tell you how many times I've been off a tooth or 2 and had to take 20 Minutes to disassemble and reassemble and waste time, that 20 minutes adds up and puts other work behind, not to mention this could also be implemented to help with pulling slack that may occur in the side of the belt opposite of the tensioner, thanks for this video my man!💯🤘🏽
Buddy... you don't know how much grief and frustrations and hassles I've been through. You saved by butt big time! Thanks so much for putting this video out. I've been crying trying to get these stupid cams to line up after I put the toothed idler on. The proper amount of tension needs to be applied on the toothed idler, but not too much, otherwise the cams move. I saw your other video with putting the tensioner on last, but it didn't work for me. Thanks so much and God bless you sir! 🙏 😁
No problem! I think I put an idler on last in the older video and that is the trick on Subbies. Glad to help! Thanks for the comment. Your channel looks good, keep it up 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks brother I appreciate that. Will do. I'm liking your channel also I've been following for quite some time now I can't seem to recall how long though.
Thank you man you’re a lifesaver. saved me hours of pulling the timing cover back off. Btw it also works on a timing chain on a VW tsi. my intake cam was off 1 tooth and i did this and now it’s lines up perfectly
This can be my saving grace, I’m not a mechanic but THE TB thing is pretty delicate as it will be my first “TIME DO”. Because no body will be believed that I don’t replace the TB yet on my 20 years old plus 200K mark, luckily the car is still fine now but on the verge 😅 soon I MUST ! Thank you for the great VID
Thank you so much for I used your great engineering idea to time my l4 honda civic back to top dead center. My timing belt jumped 1 tooth when i replaced it. Your excellent technique worked and prevented me from disassembling timing belt.
What? Really? All these years I've been loosening the tensioner and resetting all shafts. About to fix a PT Cruiser that jumped time on one cam. Dude, this trick is awesome! Thanks for sharing!
i did my v6 prado and every time i released the tensioner the bottom crack would always be out after many trys i gave up i am going to try this now. thanks mate awesome work
Sorry to hear that. Some systems characteristically are more of a pain than others for sure. If you have clearance the trick can be a game changer. Good luck, I hope it helps you out 😃🔧
Muchas gracias por el contenido del video, me fue muy útil. Recibe un cordial saludo y abrazo fraterno desde el bello Puerto de Tampico Tamaulipas México. Bendiciones 🙏
Bro you are fricking awesome. I'm timing my 1987 MK2 Scirocco 8 valve GTX 1.8 injection, engine code DX UK. I've been stuck with the camshaft pulley for ages always a tooth out. So using your trick I won't need to remove my timing belt at all? Just insert the little tool in and rotate. I have a plastic cover on top behind the cam sprocket. There is an arrow pointing downwards. Everytime I tension the belt the fricking cam sprocket moves almost one tooth and the arrow ends up on the sidewall of following tooth. Of course I need the downward arrow in the middle of the groove and not the sidewall. Basically it's a tooth out.
Thanks man. Yup you should be able to move the timing one tooth in either direction with the belt properly tensioned. Should work easily for you as long as there is clearance around the cover for the tool 😃🔧
I will do this if i go with issues with my tiburon v6. I will do this change soon this week. I need to ask something.. the water pump is leaking .. did need a sealand when use a gasket? Car cames onky with a gasket and the new pump cames with new gasket.. are this need sealan? Some says no others says a little
Excellent! I would recommend using the same sealer or gasket that the factory used for best results. I would also recommend a factory belt and pump, then you can be confident you won't have any issues until the next belt replacement interval 😃
Ok. Wow. What a freaking enormous hack. !! Thank You emphatically. But how do I figure out whete Im off exactly.? I know ur gonna answr ... by timing light. Heres what i did. 2000 Isuzu Enemy V6. I marked everything WHERE IT WAS without dead center. I realize now for a non pro, this can be a problem. Reassembly is ok. Then I cant reset my timing belt so my man helps force it on . It skipped one or so teeth. Cuz now it wont start. How do I find the off digit.?? Im so frustrated with Isuzu. I havent worked on a harder rig. Dumb design. Can u please kindly help navigate me ?? Lol. I so appreciate ur reply. Angieford in roseburg oregon.
Hey Angie. To do the trick properly you will need all the covers off so you can see your timing marks. It will save time in the event it is needed but it should only be used at the point of belt installation where all marks can be seen. Otherwise if you guess its extremely likely you will cause engine damage. Valves can easily contact each other or the pistons if your marks are off more than 1 or 2 teeth. 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun I like it so much I'll try it tomorrow haha, I think I'm off a tooth with a timing belt I installed yesterday. There were 2 marks side by side on the crank so I had to give it a best guess as to which one seemed to line up better at TDC, guess I picked wrong 😄 so I'll confirm TDC and then check the cam gear mark, adjust it using this trick 👍
Thank you for you video, I’m just curious what your reasoning is for not doing this trick if timing is off more than 2 teeth? What are your thoughts about potential harm in doing this trick if the motoro were even off by, say 15 teeth?
When i use the trick, my reasoning is just generally trying not to risk damage motor internals. 1 or 2 teeth max should be a rule of thumb for the trick. The tricks main objective value is quickly fixing belt service timing when off 1 tooth timing a fresh belt. 2 teeth gives a little lee way to do the trick the wrong direction once. Interference motors where valves can contact pistons may have some damage if more than two teeth generally speaking. All motors are different. Non-interference motors can be done 15 teeth no problem. Interference motors can usually go a couple teeth no problem. But proceed with caution kind of thing beyond that. This Subaru motor can go about 4 or 5 teeth before any internal contact happens. I tested this and was careful to stop when contact was made. You can look up your motor design and that should help understand what you have and far you can go with it. Great question 😀
Great tip. thanks! I really enjoy your content! Is it ok to spin the engine backwards? I thought there was a con to that? Maybe you're not supposed to spin it backwards too much because it could cause a skip?
Thanks a lot! Usually spinning it the direction it is supposed to spin it will be much less likely to skip a tooth. But when doing the trick sometimes you need to go backwards. Shouldn't hurt anything but go slow to be safe. With tension on the belt and going slow its very unlikely to skip 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun could you explain what is the proper direction to turn the moto? How do you determine from what position what the clockwise in counterclockwise rotation is. It gets to be very ambiguous when you don't know the point of reference. The manuals don't have arrows indicating clockwise, but from what position of reference? what is the easy rule?
No problem. Generally speaking you want to always spin the motor in its normal direction of rotation. That helps the belt to not skip a tooth because the tensioner is designed to keep it tight mainly in one rotational direction. It does keep it tight in the opposite direction but skips can occur. Generally speaking most engines will spin clockwise when looking at them from the front. The trick is designed to save you time if you accidentally time it wrong and are off a tooth. You can move a mark one tooth at a time if it is a belt system (not a chain) and the is room for the tool to pass around the pulley. The marks will move one tooth towards the tool. You would then need to wind the tool into the belt/sprocket from that perspective 😀🔧
Incredible time saving tip bro! is there any possible stress or damage to the belt from placing that bit under there? i mean the crease in the belt while the bit is in place? harmful at all? o ther than that, its genius
Thank you! I have done it hundreds of times like in the video and never had a belt problem. Rubber belts flex plus it is long enough there is plenty of length for deflection and that helps. I have had success with both hydraulic tensioner style belts and fixed Mount belts. Always be careful, but both styles should work great😀🔧
Thank you! It will work for an unlimited amount of teeth in either direction for you. I just think generally speaking 1 or 2 teeth is a safe amount on most motors. More than that, piston to valve contact can happen. I tested it on the particular motor I was testing and 4 teeth off I made contact. So you just need to be careful 😃
im wondering ....... Would a smooth steel Pin about the same thickness work & not be so abrasive on the belt. lots of tension on that little bit and it has angles. Just seems the smooth "rod" or steel pin may work also & not risk any scratching etc.
Yes that work great! I have never had any problems with the tool i used, it was the right size so that's what I have always used. If i had a nice pin the same size i would have used that also 😀
07 Hyundai 1.6 ... I xcant get the CS bolt out, 88 hrs done it all with what I have. Bumped the starter toa point I dont wanna screwup or wear out my starter, but still cant get the 108.5 torgue Bolt out. .... So, I MAY pull the timing covers off & visually inspect the belt & leave it at that. In other words this timing belt job is winning. @@EasyFixShaun
Oh wow. Some crank bolts "stick" really bad. I haven't serviced a Hyundai like you have. But i have done lots of Hondas. Hondas are known for sticking like that also. Incredibly difficult! They stick and it takes the biggest bar or impact i have to get them loosened. Have you checked and searched youtube and forums to find info if its common?
You are correct though! The tensioner is designed to take the slack on the "backside" of belt tension created by the crank pulling on the belt. So reverse direction will effect that process at the tensioner and could cause the belt to skip. If I want to reverse direction for the trick (or any other reason during timing process), I will go slow and allow compression to bleed off. That way no skipping will happen. I am very carefully monitoring everything while doing this. If there is too much pressure while turning crank.....I wait......then turn some more. And so on until I get the pulley into the position I want. I hope that helps. I do this all the time and have had a belt skip a tooth on occasion in reverse direction when I go to fast and force it. But overall it works just fine to accomplish the goal of timing without removing the belt 😃
The trick by nature isn't necessarily safe. Anything can happen. But- with that in mind, I have never had a problem moving any engine belt system in either direction (1 tooth adjustment from perfect time) as long as there is room for the tool to pass around the pulley needing adjustment. Some covers get in the way and that creates the most problem. For example: If the crank is off one tooth and there is no room to pass the tool around the crank, but there is on the cam sprocket or sprockets, I will usually just do the trick twice, once on each cam. Does that make sense? 😃🔧
Generally you want to only spin the belt in the direction of engine rotation. That rotation is what the tensioner is designed to keep the tension best at 😃🔧
I got a 98 Honda CRV, and my timing belt broke. I installed a NEW timing belt afterwards, and everything started up fine, and test drove it. But I noticed I was off by ONE tooth on one of my camshafts. Would this method work in this situation?
Yup the basic method will work on pretty much any belt. Just need to make sure you can see every timing mark on every sprocket. You want to be able to clearly plan your tool insertion and pulley direction of rotation. There also can be no obstructions so the tool can pass by as it goes around the sprocket😃🔧
Yup, I have done it many times on the cam pulleys of that engine. Mainly just the left/rear most pulley. I have never needed to do it on the crank plus I don't think it would work, there is a metal engine rib/cover in the way I think. Anyways, I have also sliced my hand open on the camshafts pretty bad trying to hold and time them. The top left cam is hard to align and under valve spring tension. I loves to spin on me. I use the trick typically every time now on every 3.5 timing belt. I just time it one tooth off now, check time, its usually still off a tooth, use the trick...perfect 😃🔧
Take the belt off and start over is your best bet. I have done it when off 3/4 teeth a couple times and it worked. But all engines are different. It may not be worth the risk of engine damage. I have found little to no risk when off by 1-2 teeth. Any more than that and the risk goes up dramatically for the valves to contact the pistons or each other 😀🔧
Thanks a lot, my car is very dangerous at the moment. Flashing check engine light, trying to get on to the highway, flat out at 3k rpm and she slowly picks up to about 10mph😐 I will try your trick with a few teeth and see if anything changes. Really dont want to put my audi back into service mode…if you know you know 😂
@@collinsmccarthy5625 Good luck. If it jumped time, make sure you fix the cause of that first. I use the trick to basically speed up install of new belts when doing maintenance. If it slipped a tooth, something else is going on 😃
@@collinsmccarthy5625 Oh ok. I have had a similar thing happen a couple times when I didn't verify the marks after complete. I was sure they were good, but it turned out they were not and I had to pull it all apart again. I had similar driveability issues like you right after the repair, so I was also certain the problem was the timing. Good luck, I hope it is fast and easy for you 😃🔧
If the belt is ok probably a bad tensioner is where I would start to look. Could even be a loose bad bearing on an idler pulley also. I have seen that cause a belt to jump time also. They can be sneaky loose but make no noise sometimes. I like to spin every pulley by hand that the belt runs on to double check. Let me know what you find 😃😃
When I do the trick I am feeling for compression and compensating for that pressure by slowly turning. Some engines are different than others, but generally going slow is best and works great. Sorry for the delay. Did you get yours figured out?
Hydraulic tensioners will deflect like a derailor on a bicycle. Belt is rubber and will deflect on its own with no damage from the small tool if you have do not have a hydraulic tensioner. You can watch the belt deflection in the video. It isn't damaged in any way 😀🔧
@@WhiteFox510 True! interference motors have some leeway but not much. Usually it's highly risky to go more than a tooth out in in all cases especially interferrance fit motors. Don't do the trick with more than a tooth out unless you are crazy careful. Take belt off and redo the process to be safe in that case. Technically speaking the Subaru in the video is an interference motor. I have tested and it will go 3 or 4 teeth before valves will make contact or get close. I was very careful during this test and didn't damage anything. But I don't recommend doing this testing or trick beyond 1 tooth on interference motors. NON interference motors should be able to technically go 100 teeth on the trick 😃
Dude, I did the timing belt replacement with tensioner and water pump on my 2001 Honda CRV. I did not crank the engine Once I finished the job I just cranked it up and it idle really bad. I still drove the car that way for two days until the engine light came on and I don’t remember the code, but it was running rich so I went back to the garage remove the valve, cover and put a long screwdriver down cylinder one once I was at top dead center. The exhaust cam was off by two teeth. I did this trick in the car cranked up as it should with no hesitation. Thank you so much for this life-saving information. I’ll keep you updated on how my CRV runs as of right now so far so good.
I watched this video a few weeks ago in preparation of re-doing a timing job on an H22 Prelude engine. Just yesterday, after one crank rotation, it was off by a tooth and I did this trick on an H22 and this trick worked like a charm - thank you for this strategy!
I can easily say that this is probably the most grateful I've been for any type of youtube video I've EVER watched. My timing belt is extraordinarily difficult to install so this trick EASILY saved my 3+ hours from removing and reinstalling it. Thanks a million for the genius nugget of knowledge and excellent tutorial. 🍻🙏
It does work and save time, however if you have a spring tensioner I would highly recommend loosening the tension just a little. Adjusted my crank pulley and ended up ruining the timing belt.
The belt will deflect. I have loosened tensioner a long time ago and the trick doesn't work consistently. The belt can skip teeth in an undesirable fashion. What year make model engine are you working on?
Working on my 2012 chevy cruze 1.8 none turbo. When I tried to remove the crankshaft bolt, my exhaust camshaft moved out of place a lot. I want to move it backwards but it's nearly impossible. Specially me being so little and not that strong...😁 I'm sure this trick will not help me my situation, but it was great video!!👍👍
Should work on your timing belt as long as there is access for the tool to ride around the belt. I haven't tried it on your motor. That is the only thing as far the trick working. If the cam moved more than a couple teeth and I don't have experience on that particular motor I would pull the belt off and do it the normal way. If I knew the motor better I would use the tool if at all possible. I have done it will success on motors that are off 4 teeth no problem. The more teeth off the more risk there is to valve damage from contacting the pistons.😃🔧
It's mind boggling to think of all the saved hours that could come out of this video, multiplied across all the people that watch it, all the people they tell about this, and all the engines they work on. Figure that time as money and it could be the economy of a small country over time...
Wow ... I am about to use this on a Honda J series 3.5 V6 on the rear cam. Is there any concern with rotating the engine counter clockwise with everything attached?
I do it all the time. Im always go slow, theres lots of compression on that motor. I don't force it and it always works great for me. I love the trick on that motor. I sliced my hand wide open on that motor one time when that cam moved. Its very sharp and under spring tension from the valves and likes to move during the timing process. I just time it one or two teeth off now and fix with the trick. Much safer and much faster for me 😀😀
Just did a new to me ‘13 TL a couple days ago. Yeah, that rear cam slipped. Have to put a good amount of pressure on the wrench (should’ve used a breaker bar and socket) to get it back in place. But at the same time have to be sensitive enough to not go too far/fast or it springs the other way just past the TDC mark. Welp, my hand got slammed between the wrench and the engine. Got a couple nasty gashes on my hand and pinky.
Thanks! Im not sure about the date code but i have seen those before. They might be on them. I do know about counterfeit parts and have seen many of those belts fail with the Mitsubishi name on them. So keep an eye out for that 😀
Good question. I have never tried it on a chain. Would work in theory as long as the tensioners are not the locking type. May need a larger tool, and may need to go slower to accommodate hydraulic tensioner compression. I would guess it works best on belts but I have been wrong before. Just read these comments 😂😃
Great idea! Working on Hyundai xg350 and I know this will help. I have an idea to use a magnet to hold the bit in place. Will try this and let you know. THANKS
i am using this practice since the early VW Rabbits since the 1.5 Diesels and Audis including Gas engines since my training days in Germany, works on every timing belt regardless what vehicle, good secret fixing somebody else's screw up for a good pay, i use a 1/4 bolt on a mig welder wire not to drop the bolt down an open cover, works great
No belt damage for me ever. I have done it a lot. Belt deflection can easily absorb this in my experience. Some systems have hydraulic tensioners that absorb also but it isn't needed. It is similar to a bike chain on a single speed bike. It just works 😃
Nice. Im not sure on your motor without seeing it. But Ya the mark on the sprocket should always move one tooth towards the special tool that you decide to use on each application. It's a weird concept and hard to understand. Sometimes i mix it up and go the wrong direction on the first try. Make sure you go back the other direction if you go the wrong way. Then you are back to where you were and can try again after that. You don't want to be of more than a tooth or two, you could cause damage in some motors in the 3/4 teeth zone. So unless you know the motor well and have experience don't do that. 1-2 teeth off is usually a safe zone to play in on moat any motor with no engine damage. Does that help? Watch the video a few times and hopefully it should make sense 😀. Its a weird trick you aren't alone in not fully understanding it right off the bat.
Ive got a 06 v.w golf tdi 1.9 diesel and i replaced w.p timing belt tentioner and now its out of time it starts but after 1st gear is sluggish bogging and loss of power if i feather pedal it slowly will get up to about 45 mph trying to figure out if its ahead or behind i timing can i reverse the crank and or cam with this trick i was under impdession not to reverse the motor any help would be great
Yup! Watch the video closely. It's a weird concept to grasp even for me! As long as you have a rubber cogged belt and there is room for the special tool to pass cleanly around the pulley in the desired direction..... you should be able to move the timing without removing the belt or tensioner.
Hello.. i am having a problem with timing belt just hoping if you can give any suggestion 1) so my timing mark on sproket and on top of engine is aligned but my belt is 1 tooth behind.. what can i do in this case
Just FYI I marked the old belt marks tdc with new that's why I am saying my belt is 1 tooth behind the tooth to align with engine and cam shaft mark for tdc
Well there are a couple things to check here. Double and triple check you have the correct belt with the correct amount of teeth to be sure the belt is 1 million percent correct so you don't chase your tail for no reason 😀. Also if it isn't the actual oem belt or and Aisin belt..... throw it in the trash immediately. Perfection quality parts here only or you will have very intense problems.... been there seem that a lot. 😀 If that belt is correct, a couple things could be happening. 1. Slack isn't accounted for and as soon as you tighten belt manually or with a tensioner, the engine will be one tooth out of time (matching the belt marks). In this case use the belt marks and retime. Once you tension the belt it should pull the sprocket marks into correct position so that it appears sprockets and belt are all lined up. The other thing that could be happening is some engine marks are slightly off characteristically and its best to use the belt marks. Some engines its the opposite and i ignore the belt marks and just line up the sprockets. What year make model engine do you have?
@@EasyFixShaun It's 2010 caravan 4.0 ... I moved the cam a lil bit and put it back in place... It was 1 tooth behind but with tensioner realse it all got aligned and it was perfect appreciate your help... Thanks a lot
Sorry to disappoint you your tip will not work on my 2005 Honda Pilot 3.5L engine because the cam gears over top of them have a housing over top of them that the belt goes through tried you trick on the rear camshaft and it gets stuck and will not turn through their my luck thank you wish It worked for but I have no luck that's why It jumped a tooth have a blessed day today 🙏
Sorry you are having trouble. Those motors can be hard to line up and the rear cam is very sharp and can cut you if you try to hold it while lining up the marks. That is the motor I use it on the most. So because of that I put the belt on, line up all marks except that cam. Then I use tension the belt and use the trick to fix the timing. It's way fast. Sometimes you need to get creative and line up one cam on any given motor that has a cover in the way, use the trick on the other cam and be strategic. Sorry it didn't work for you.
@@hardknoxblount Yup great tip! If it is plastic it can be flex tested to see if it has enough give for the tool to pass. Works great if there's enough flex. If aluminum or steel metal usually not gonna flex 😃
You need to look how the Honda Pilot engine is made out to take a it off you got to take the timing gear off but I took a. 150 long screw and used a rotary tool and made a pin it went across the cam gear and it worked thank for your hard work making videos and have a blessed day today 🙏
A properly functioning belt system has enough belt deflection to accommodate the trick. A spring or hydraulic tensioner shouldn't matter but it's hard to say. You may need to reset the spring tension depending on your set up. The belt should have curbs on select pulleys in the system to help it track properly. Does the belt seem like it's falling off or could fall off? What year make model engine are you working on?
@@EasyFixShaun pulleys have no curbs and are slightly wider then belt. It only dance around 3mm acros the pulley width so it will not come off. I will keep using it as it is just leave cover off for now to check if its not getting any worse. Engine is from fiat 500 1.2.
Ok. Are there any curbs on the camshaft and crank sprocket? Usually they will put them there if they aren't anywhere else. There should be some somewhere on both sides of the belt. Be careful with the covers off. That is actually how I discovered the trick. Debris went into the belt and changed the timing 😀🔧
@Easy Fix they may be some curbs on waterpump pulley i need to double check later. Thanks for the advice about debris I have only top cover off so chances are small that anything will get in there
*_New sway bar link video_* ua-cam.com/video/0S8JBe_jn6g/v-deo.html
Would this work for a 2002 Ford F150 5.4 v8. I want to move the cams forward 1 tooth.
It wont likely work the same on a timing chain because chains don't stretch and slip the same over the sprocket. You could experiment and try to find a way. I have not done it to a chain or found a way to do it on a chain. I think standard replacement on a chain will be best. ...until someone figures it out. Could be risky but if you figure it out-make a video! 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Thank you
So glad i found this video. I thought i was going to have to tear it all down again. Way easier 🎉
🤝
Dude I want to marry you. Seriously, I feel like I should at least be giving you money. Been an engineer for 37 years, and this is the best, most helpful thing I have ever learned. Thanks a million.
😂 haha. No problem. You can tip me on the "thanks" button. It's one of my favorite tricks too! 😀🔧
Have used this method on huge double row chains using a deep 1/2” socket! Saves so much time and sweat!
Really!? What type of equipment is that?
Indeed, I'd like to know too!
I cant thank you enough for taking the extra time and effort of showing what other line the left cam shaft aligns with besides the cover, i got a 2009 Subaru Forester on Facebook market place with 89k miles on it, when i changed the timing belt i realized the left cam shaft cover was completely chewed off, so i had no other reference besides your video to make sure i lined up the marks for the right alignment.
No problem! I am happy you got it sorted out 😀
This is such a life saving hack when your in the mechanic field, I can't tell you how many times I've been off a tooth or 2 and had to take 20 Minutes to disassemble and reassemble and waste time, that 20 minutes adds up and puts other work behind, not to mention this could also be implemented to help with pulling slack that may occur in the side of the belt opposite of the tensioner, thanks for this video my man!💯🤘🏽
You nailed it! You are welcome. Thank for the comment. Been there with you man. Glad to help out 😃🔧
Buddy... you don't know how much grief and frustrations and hassles I've been through. You saved by butt big time! Thanks so much for putting this video out. I've been crying trying to get these stupid cams to line up after I put the toothed idler on. The proper amount of tension needs to be applied on the toothed idler, but not too much, otherwise the cams move. I saw your other video with putting the tensioner on last, but it didn't work for me. Thanks so much and God bless you sir! 🙏 😁
No problem! I think I put an idler on last in the older video and that is the trick on Subbies. Glad to help! Thanks for the comment. Your channel looks good, keep it up 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks brother I appreciate that. Will do. I'm liking your channel also I've been following for quite some time now I can't seem to recall how long though.
No way! Thanks man. I really appreciate that a lot 😀😀
Awesome 👏🏼 thanks 🙏🏼
Thank you man you’re a lifesaver. saved me hours of pulling the timing cover back off. Btw it also works on a timing chain on a VW tsi. my intake cam was off 1 tooth and i did this and now it’s lines up perfectly
You are a lifesaver! Thanks for letting me know it worked and what vehicle you are working on. Awsome man! 😀😀
This can be my saving grace, I’m not a mechanic but THE TB thing is pretty delicate as it will be my first “TIME DO”. Because no body will be believed that I don’t replace the TB yet on my 20 years old plus 200K mark, luckily the car is still fine now but on the verge 😅 soon I MUST !
Thank you for the great VID
No problem. Good luck with your project 😀🔧
Wow man! I can’t wait until sun up, you just knocked all the intimidation out of this job. Thanks
Thank you! Necessity is the mother of invention 😃🔧
Thank you so much for I used your great engineering idea to time my l4 honda civic back to top dead center. My timing belt jumped 1 tooth when i replaced it. Your excellent technique worked and prevented me from disassembling timing belt.
Awsome! I'm glad it helped you. I use it for the same purpose all the time😀🔧
Move your cam forward one tooth and your mpg will go up as well as your power.
This is one of the most amazing things I've seen in a long time.
Thanks!! I am so glad you like it. It is a weirdly satisfying trick to perform when its needed 😀🔧
Thank you my brother I just do my Volvo S40 t5 2007 timing and it was missing and I watch your video and it works Thank you
No way! You are very welcome. Nice work 😃😃
What? Really? All these years I've been loosening the tensioner and resetting all shafts. About to fix a PT Cruiser that jumped time on one cam. Dude, this trick is awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Glad I could help 😃😃
i did my v6 prado and every time i released the tensioner the bottom crack would always be out after many trys i gave up i am going to try this now. thanks mate awesome work
Sorry to hear that. Some systems characteristically are more of a pain than others for sure. If you have clearance the trick can be a game changer. Good luck, I hope it helps you out 😃🔧
I don't know when I will need this trick. Next time I change my belt I hope I retain this information 👍
Please do! worth its weight in gold to us belt changers 😀
Thanks a million! Saved me a bunch of work😁
Ya!! No prob glad to help 😀😀
This deserves a "SUBSCRIBE" and a Thank You for sure.
Thank you! Much appreciated!!
Best trick I've seen in over 40 year's
Thanks
Wow thanks! 😀😀
What is the #2 trick you have seen in 40 years? I can try to make a video on it someday for you 😃🔧
Right cam is off one tooth. found this video cool trick, gonna field test this now on 06 Hyundai 2.7L v6 lol
Awsome! Best of luck 😀🔧
You absolutely saved my life! Thank you for posting this.
You're welcome! Glad to help 😃😃
Muchas gracias por el contenido del video, me fue muy útil. Recibe un cordial saludo y abrazo fraterno desde el bello Puerto de Tampico Tamaulipas México. Bendiciones 🙏
No hay problema, encantado de ayudar! Espero que tu proyecto haya salido bien 😃🔧
Bro you are fricking awesome. I'm timing my 1987 MK2 Scirocco 8 valve GTX 1.8 injection, engine code DX UK. I've been stuck with the camshaft pulley for ages always a tooth out. So using your trick I won't need to remove my timing belt at all? Just insert the little tool in and rotate.
I have a plastic cover on top behind the cam sprocket. There is an arrow pointing downwards. Everytime I tension the belt the fricking cam sprocket moves almost one tooth and the arrow ends up on the sidewall of following tooth. Of course I need the downward arrow in the middle of the groove and not the sidewall. Basically it's a tooth out.
Thanks man. Yup you should be able to move the timing one tooth in either direction with the belt properly tensioned. Should work easily for you as long as there is clearance around the cover for the tool 😃🔧
Holy shit. This saved me and fixed my belt when it was throwing a cam correlation code. I owe you a beer. Message me
No charge! Glad to help out 😃🔧
This is awesome thank you for your knowledge!
Thanks a lot! Thanks for your comment glad to help😀🔧
I will do this if i go with issues with my tiburon v6. I will do this change soon this week. I need to ask something.. the water pump is leaking .. did need a sealand when use a gasket? Car cames onky with a gasket and the new pump cames with new gasket.. are this need sealan? Some says no others says a little
Excellent! I would recommend using the same sealer or gasket that the factory used for best results. I would also recommend a factory belt and pump, then you can be confident you won't have any issues until the next belt replacement interval 😃
Thank you we'll see or I mean I 'll see if it works when I turn the key on . But any ways thanks
Best of luck to you on your project 😃
😅can you do this on 4.7 Toyota vvti says don’t go counterclockwise? This is great fix. Thanks
Yes if your careful and slow and let the compression bleed off as you go 😀
Good question by the way.
Ok. Wow. What a freaking enormous hack. !! Thank You emphatically. But how do I figure out whete Im off exactly.? I know ur gonna answr ... by timing light. Heres what i did.
2000 Isuzu Enemy V6. I marked everything WHERE IT WAS without dead center. I realize now for a non pro, this can be a problem. Reassembly is ok. Then I cant reset my timing belt so my man helps force it on . It skipped one or so teeth. Cuz now it wont start. How do I find the off digit.?? Im so frustrated with Isuzu. I havent worked on a harder rig. Dumb design. Can u please kindly help navigate me ?? Lol. I so appreciate ur reply. Angieford in roseburg oregon.
Hey Angie. To do the trick properly you will need all the covers off so you can see your timing marks. It will save time in the event it is needed but it should only be used at the point of belt installation where all marks can be seen. Otherwise if you guess its extremely likely you will cause engine damage. Valves can easily contact each other or the pistons if your marks are off more than 1 or 2 teeth. 😃🔧
Well if this video doesn't deserve all the likes I don't know what does. Very cool trick! Thanks for this!!
Thanks a lot! Im so glad you liked it. Much appreciated 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun I like it so much I'll try it tomorrow haha, I think I'm off a tooth with a timing belt I installed yesterday. There were 2 marks side by side on the crank so I had to give it a best guess as to which one seemed to line up better at TDC, guess I picked wrong 😄 so I'll confirm TDC and then check the cam gear mark, adjust it using this trick 👍
Genius!
😃😃😃
Thank you for you video, I’m just curious what your reasoning is for not doing this trick if timing is off more than 2 teeth? What are your thoughts about potential harm in doing this trick if the motoro were even off by, say 15 teeth?
When i use the trick, my reasoning is just generally trying not to risk damage motor internals. 1 or 2 teeth max should be a rule of thumb for the trick. The tricks main objective value is quickly fixing belt service timing when off 1 tooth timing a fresh belt. 2 teeth gives a little lee way to do the trick the wrong direction once. Interference motors where valves can contact pistons may have some damage if more than two teeth generally speaking. All motors are different. Non-interference motors can be done 15 teeth no problem. Interference motors can usually go a couple teeth no problem. But proceed with caution kind of thing beyond that. This Subaru motor can go about 4 or 5 teeth before any internal contact happens. I tested this and was careful to stop when contact was made. You can look up your motor design and that should help understand what you have and far you can go with it. Great question 😀
Dude where ya been?
I took a small break. Back at it again now. Feels good 😃
This is absolutely Fkn genius!!!!
Thanks man! Glad to help 😀🥋🔧
Thanks a million. You saved the day!
I used an allen wrench though.
Glad I could help! Nice work 😃🔧
What model and engine were you working on??
@@EasyFixShaun 2006 Chrysler 300. 3.5L, V6.
Great tip. thanks! I really enjoy your content! Is it ok to spin the engine backwards? I thought there was a con to that? Maybe you're not supposed to spin it backwards too much because it could cause a skip?
Thanks a lot! Usually spinning it the direction it is supposed to spin it will be much less likely to skip a tooth. But when doing the trick sometimes you need to go backwards. Shouldn't hurt anything but go slow to be safe. With tension on the belt and going slow its very unlikely to skip 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun could you explain what is the proper direction to turn the moto? How do you determine from what position what the clockwise in counterclockwise rotation is. It gets to be very ambiguous when you don't know the point of reference. The manuals don't have arrows indicating clockwise, but from what position of reference? what is the easy rule?
No problem. Generally speaking you want to always spin the motor in its normal direction of rotation. That helps the belt to not skip a tooth because the tensioner is designed to keep it tight mainly in one rotational direction. It does keep it tight in the opposite direction but skips can occur. Generally speaking most engines will spin clockwise when looking at them from the front. The trick is designed to save you time if you accidentally time it wrong and are off a tooth. You can move a mark one tooth at a time if it is a belt system (not a chain) and the is room for the tool to pass around the pulley. The marks will move one tooth towards the tool. You would then need to wind the tool into the belt/sprocket from that perspective 😀🔧
Incredible time saving tip bro! is there any possible stress or damage to the belt from placing that bit under there? i mean the crease in the belt while the bit is in place? harmful at all? o ther than that, its genius
Thank you! I have done it hundreds of times like in the video and never had a belt problem. Rubber belts flex plus it is long enough there is plenty of length for deflection and that helps. I have had success with both hydraulic tensioner style belts and fixed Mount belts. Always be careful, but both styles should work great😀🔧
Man that is genious!
Thank you! I sent debris through a belt one time with the cover off (on accident while driving) and discovered the trick 😃😃
Great tip. Thanks.
No problem! Thank you! 😊
Great Video! 🏆 So it won't work if you more than 2 teeth off?
Thank you! It will work for an unlimited amount of teeth in either direction for you. I just think generally speaking 1 or 2 teeth is a safe amount on most motors. More than that, piston to valve contact can happen. I tested it on the particular motor I was testing and 4 teeth off I made contact. So you just need to be careful 😃
Much appreciated! 👍
No prob! Good luck with your project 😃
im wondering ....... Would a smooth steel Pin about the same thickness work & not be so abrasive on the belt. lots of tension on that little bit and it has angles. Just seems the smooth "rod" or steel pin may work also & not risk any scratching etc.
Yes that work great! I have never had any problems with the tool i used, it was the right size so that's what I have always used. If i had a nice pin the same size i would have used that also 😀
cool. thanx. @@EasyFixShaun
@@97warlock Ya Good luck! What kinda motor do you have?
07 Hyundai 1.6 ... I xcant get the CS bolt out, 88 hrs done it all with what I have. Bumped the starter toa point I dont wanna screwup or wear out my starter, but still cant get the 108.5 torgue Bolt out. .... So, I MAY pull the timing covers off & visually inspect the belt & leave it at that. In other words this timing belt job is winning. @@EasyFixShaun
Oh wow. Some crank bolts "stick" really bad. I haven't serviced a Hyundai like you have. But i have done lots of Hondas. Hondas are known for sticking like that also. Incredibly difficult! They stick and it takes the biggest bar or impact i have to get them loosened. Have you checked and searched youtube and forums to find info if its common?
It worked thank you so much
You're welcome!
Easiest way to tighten crankshaft pulley bolt so I can use this while needing to turn ccw? So it doesn't just lose bolt
You could try turning any of the sprocket bolts that are tight. Camshaft or Crankshaft. Crankshaft is always best but I have used them all 😃🔧
Awesome . Love it . Thanks
You are welcome 😀😀
Ok, can you rotate the crank in both directions? I thought that was a no no.
Doesn't matter on this motor if you go slow 😃
You are correct though! The tensioner is designed to take the slack on the "backside" of belt tension created by the crank pulling on the belt. So reverse direction will effect that process at the tensioner and could cause the belt to skip. If I want to reverse direction for the trick (or any other reason during timing process), I will go slow and allow compression to bleed off. That way no skipping will happen. I am very carefully monitoring everything while doing this. If there is too much pressure while turning crank.....I wait......then turn some more. And so on until I get the pulley into the position I want. I hope that helps. I do this all the time and have had a belt skip a tooth on occasion in reverse direction when I go to fast and force it. But overall it works just fine to accomplish the goal of timing without removing the belt 😃
Can I safely turn clockwise on a 2003 Honda Civic d17a engine? Jumped one tooth.
The trick by nature isn't necessarily safe. Anything can happen. But- with that in mind, I have never had a problem moving any engine belt system in either direction (1 tooth adjustment from perfect time) as long as there is room for the tool to pass around the pulley needing adjustment. Some covers get in the way and that creates the most problem. For example: If the crank is off one tooth and there is no room to pass the tool around the crank, but there is on the cam sprocket or sprockets, I will usually just do the trick twice, once on each cam. Does that make sense? 😃🔧
They tell me counterclockwise is a yuuuge nono.
Generally you want to only spin the belt in the direction of engine rotation. That rotation is what the tensioner is designed to keep the tension best at 😃🔧
Love that one
Thank you! I'm so glad you like it 😀🔧
I got a 98 Honda CRV, and my timing belt broke. I installed a NEW timing belt afterwards, and everything started up fine, and test drove it.
But I noticed I was off by ONE tooth on one of my camshafts.
Would this method work in this situation?
Yup the basic method will work on pretty much any belt. Just need to make sure you can see every timing mark on every sprocket. You want to be able to clearly plan your tool insertion and pulley direction of rotation. There also can be no obstructions so the tool can pass by as it goes around the sprocket😃🔧
That's super smart 👍✌👏👌
Thanks! I hope it helps you out someday 😃🔧
Does this trick work on a 2003 Honda 3.5
Yup, I have done it many times on the cam pulleys of that engine. Mainly just the left/rear most pulley. I have never needed to do it on the crank plus I don't think it would work, there is a metal engine rib/cover in the way I think. Anyways, I have also sliced my hand open on the camshafts pretty bad trying to hold and time them. The top left cam is hard to align and under valve spring tension. I loves to spin on me. I use the trick typically every time now on every 3.5 timing belt. I just time it one tooth off now, check time, its usually still off a tooth, use the trick...perfect 😃🔧
So if its off by a lot, what do you do?
Take the belt off and start over is your best bet. I have done it when off 3/4 teeth a couple times and it worked. But all
engines are different. It may not be worth the risk of engine damage. I have found little to no risk when off by 1-2 teeth. Any more than that and the risk goes up dramatically for the valves to contact the pistons or each other 😀🔧
Thanks a lot, my car is very dangerous at the moment. Flashing check engine light, trying to get on to the highway, flat out at 3k rpm and she slowly picks up to about 10mph😐
I will try your trick with a few teeth and see if anything changes. Really dont want to put my audi back into service mode…if you know you know 😂
@@collinsmccarthy5625 Good luck. If it jumped time, make sure you fix the cause of that first. I use the trick to basically speed up install of new belts when doing maintenance. If it slipped a tooth, something else is going on 😃
@@EasyFixShaun alright, i think when i installed it the tensioner pulled the camshaft backwards a bit. Lets see how it goes
@@collinsmccarthy5625 Oh ok. I have had a similar thing happen a couple times when I didn't verify the marks after complete. I was sure they were good, but it turned out they were not and I had to pull it all apart again. I had similar driveability issues like you right after the repair, so I was also certain the problem was the timing. Good luck, I hope it is fast and easy for you 😃🔧
A weight has been lifted off my back .
😀😀🏋️♂️
Great information
Glad you liked it 😃
What’s the original way of doing this???? Take belt off and adjust pulley one tooth and reinstall belt?
Correct 😀
@@EasyFixShaun I did that it it jumped a tooth again? Any reason why? I’m trying my hardest to get the belt tight as possible when I put it back on?
If the belt is ok probably a bad tensioner is where I would start to look. Could even be a loose bad bearing on an idler pulley also. I have seen that cause a belt to jump time also. They can be sneaky loose but make no noise sometimes. I like to spin every pulley by hand that the belt runs on to double check. Let me know what you find 😃😃
@@EasyFixShaun all are brand new? Could one still be bad?
When I do the trick I am feeling for compression and compensating for that pressure by slowly turning. Some engines are different than others, but generally going slow is best and works great. Sorry for the delay. Did you get yours figured out?
I think that could lead to an over stressed belt.
Hydraulic tensioners will deflect like a derailor on a bicycle. Belt is rubber and will deflect on its own with no damage from the small tool if you have do not have a hydraulic tensioner. You can watch the belt deflection in the video. It isn't damaged in any way 😀🔧
Wwwwoooooowwwww😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍🥳🥳🥳🥳
Thanks! 😃😃
🤯
😃🤌✅
牛逼啊老哥！
谢谢！ 非常感谢您的评论 😃🔧
If It’s a non
Huh?
@@EasyFixShaun sorry I was trying to what if tin non interference but my hands had car grease on em
@@WhiteFox510 True! interference motors have some leeway but not much. Usually it's highly risky to go more than a tooth out in in all cases especially interferrance fit motors. Don't do the trick with more than a tooth out unless you are crazy careful. Take belt off and redo the process to be safe in that case. Technically speaking the Subaru in the video is an interference motor. I have tested and it will go 3 or 4 teeth before valves will make contact or get close. I was very careful during this test and didn't damage anything. But I don't recommend doing this testing or trick beyond 1 tooth on interference motors. NON interference motors should be able to technically go 100 teeth on the trick 😃
Dude, I did the timing belt replacement with tensioner and water pump on my 2001 Honda CRV. I did not crank the engine Once I finished the job I just cranked it up and it idle really bad. I still drove the car that way for two days until the engine light came on and I don’t remember the code, but it was running rich so I went back to the garage remove the valve, cover and put a long screwdriver down cylinder one once I was at top dead center. The exhaust cam was off by two teeth. I did this trick in the car cranked up as it should with no hesitation. Thank you so much for this life-saving information. I’ll keep you updated on how my CRV runs as of right now so far so good.
That is an awesome trick! I can think of several times where that would have saved me some time!
Thanks! It's crazy how i found it to. I may put how that happened in the follow up video 😀🔧
I watched this video a few weeks ago in preparation of re-doing a timing job on an H22 Prelude engine. Just yesterday, after one crank rotation, it was off by a tooth and I did this trick on an H22 and this trick worked like a charm - thank you for this strategy!
Great to hear! Glad it helped😃
I can easily say that this is probably the most grateful I've been for any type of youtube video I've EVER watched. My timing belt is extraordinarily difficult to install so this trick EASILY saved my 3+ hours from removing and reinstalling it. Thanks a million for the genius nugget of knowledge and excellent tutorial. 🍻🙏
You are so welcome! Anytime!! Just one of my favorite tricks, trying to pass on the little knowledge I have 😃🔧
Fantastic solution, especially for a DIY guy like me. Your videos are super useful. Thank you!
Thanks! Im glad you like them😀😀
It does work and save time, however if you have a spring tensioner I would highly recommend loosening the tension just a little. Adjusted my crank pulley and ended up ruining the timing belt.
The belt will deflect. I have loosened tensioner a long time ago and the trick doesn't work consistently. The belt can skip teeth in an undesirable fashion. What year make model engine are you working on?
Working on my 2012 chevy cruze 1.8 none turbo. When I tried to remove the crankshaft bolt, my exhaust camshaft moved out of place a lot. I want to move it backwards but it's nearly impossible. Specially me being so little and not that strong...😁 I'm sure this trick will not help me my situation, but it was great video!!👍👍
Should work on your timing belt as long as there is access for the tool to ride around the belt. I haven't tried it on your motor. That is the only thing as far the trick working. If the cam moved more than a couple teeth and I don't have experience on that particular motor I would pull the belt off and do it the normal way. If I knew the motor better I would use the tool if at all possible. I have done it will success on motors that are off 4 teeth no problem. The more teeth off the more risk there is to valve damage from contacting the pistons.😃🔧
It's mind boggling to think of all the saved hours that could come out of this video, multiplied across all the people that watch it, all the people they tell about this, and all the engines they work on. Figure that time as money and it could be the economy of a small country over time...
In theory on my end-No 😂
In practice in the real world-YES! 😀
Wow ... I am about to use this on a Honda J series 3.5 V6 on the rear cam. Is there any concern with rotating the engine counter clockwise with everything attached?
I do it all the time. Im always go slow, theres lots of compression on that motor. I don't force it and it always works great for me. I love the trick on that motor. I sliced my hand wide open on that motor one time when that cam moved. Its very sharp and under spring tension from the valves and likes to move during the timing process. I just time it one or two teeth off now and fix with the trick. Much safer and much faster for me 😀😀
Just did a new to me ‘13 TL a couple days ago.
Yeah, that rear cam slipped.
Have to put a good amount of pressure on the wrench (should’ve used a breaker bar and socket) to get it back in place.
But at the same time have to be sensitive enough to not go too far/fast or it springs the other way just past the TDC mark.
Welp, my hand got slammed between the wrench and the engine.
Got a couple nasty gashes on my hand and pinky.
Oh man. That makes me cringe! Been there, I am sorry! On that motor cam locks could be helpful also. But my preferred method is still the trick 😃
My Honda Pilot did not work on the the rear cam gear to fat and got stuck in there
This kicks ass ! Just had to do it today . Instead of taking tensioner off I just did this to move it one tooth. Saweeet!!!
Awsome! Im glad it worked for you. What year make engine?
Awesome tip! Do you know if US made, Mitsuboshi brand timing belts have a production date on them?
Thanks! Im not sure about the date code but i have seen those before. They might be on them. I do know about counterfeit parts and have seen many of those belts fail with the Mitsubishi name on them. So keep an eye out for that 😀
Any chance this works on a timing chain lol I have a ford focus I want to do this to
Good question. I have never tried it on a chain. Would work in theory as long as the tensioners are not the locking type. May need a larger tool, and may need to go slower to accommodate hydraulic tensioner compression. I would guess it works best on belts but I have been wrong before. Just read these comments 😂😃
2007 PT Cruiser cam belt will it work when the upper cams are together?
Should work fine! I have used it on that motor 😃
Whaaaaat!
Okkkkkkay! (Little john?).
Yup the trick works good 😀🔧
i COULD KISS YOU! I WILL KISS YOU
😘
Great idea! Working on Hyundai xg350 and I know this will help. I have an idea to use a magnet to hold the bit in place. Will try this and let you know. THANKS
Great tip! Let me know how it works 😀😀
This is awesome, thank you!
You're very welcome! 🎯
How to crimp your belt
Never Happened Yet..
I'm 3 teeth off to the left of the I not the T on a 2uzfe engine
Did the trick help?
i am using this practice since the early VW Rabbits since the 1.5 Diesels and Audis including Gas engines since my training days in Germany, works on every timing belt regardless what vehicle, good secret fixing somebody else's screw up for a good pay, i use a 1/4 bolt on a mig welder wire not to drop the bolt down an open cover, works great
Awsome!! Great tips! 😀
If this works your going to be my new best friend.
did it work?
Won't that stretch out the new belt or tear some of the fibers inside of it it's got nylon straining inside the belt
No belt damage for me ever. I have done it a lot. Belt deflection can easily absorb this in my experience. Some systems have hydraulic tensioners that absorb also but it isn't needed. It is similar to a bike chain on a single speed bike. It just works 😃
BTW, if you are concerned try it with your old belt a few times to test it and that could help you decide if you like it or not 😃
Just found you video after doing a timing belt change on a audi a3 , saved me so much time having to strip it all down again , thank you
Great! No problem 😃
Thanks Shaun for your help. I appreciate the tip.
Wow! Thank you so much for the support!! I am so grateful for you. It will go a long way. Glad to help 😃😃😃🔧
Slick fix. ThNkz
😃😃
El truco me ha ayudado mucho, gracias por compartirlo.
¡No hay problema! ¡Encantado de ayudar! Lo he usado innumerables veces para ahorrar tiempo y energía 😃🔧
on a sohc Kia soul I need to go back one tooth so i place the bit in back of my cam then move it clockwise? Thanks for any help
Nice. Im not sure on your motor without seeing it. But Ya the mark on the sprocket should always move one tooth towards the special tool that you decide to use on each application. It's a weird concept and hard to understand. Sometimes i mix it up and go the wrong direction on the first try. Make sure you go back the other direction if you go the wrong way. Then you are back to where you were and can try again after that. You don't want to be of more than a tooth or two, you could cause damage in some motors in the 3/4 teeth zone. So unless you know the motor well and have experience don't do that. 1-2 teeth off is usually a safe zone to play in on moat any motor with no engine damage. Does that help? Watch the video a few times and hopefully it should make sense 😀. Its a weird trick you aren't alone in not fully understanding it right off the bat.
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks
Yup! Good luck let me know how it goes please 🙏🏻
Ive got a 06 v.w golf tdi 1.9 diesel and i replaced w.p timing belt tentioner and now its out of time it starts but after 1st gear is sluggish bogging and loss of power if i feather pedal it slowly will get up to about 45 mph trying to figure out if its ahead or behind i timing can i reverse the crank and or cam with this trick i was under impdession not to reverse the motor any help would be great
Yup! Watch the video closely. It's a weird concept to grasp even for me! As long as you have a rubber cogged belt and there is room for the special tool to pass cleanly around the pulley in the desired direction..... you should be able to move the timing without removing the belt or tensioner.
Also YES, You can move a timing mark "Forward or Reverse" 😃
Ok sweet im doing just that now!!
How did it go? Any luck?
Hello.. i am having a problem with timing belt just hoping if you can give any suggestion
1) so my timing mark on sproket and on top of engine is aligned but my belt is 1 tooth behind.. what can i do in this case
Just FYI I marked the old belt marks tdc with new that's why I am saying my belt is 1 tooth behind the tooth to align with engine and cam shaft mark for tdc
Well there are a couple things to check here. Double and triple check you have the correct belt with the correct amount of teeth to be sure the belt is 1 million percent correct so you don't chase your tail for no reason 😀. Also if it isn't the actual oem belt or and Aisin belt..... throw it in the trash immediately. Perfection quality parts here only or you will have very intense problems.... been there seem that a lot. 😀
If that belt is correct, a couple things could be happening. 1. Slack isn't accounted for and as soon as you tighten belt manually or with a tensioner, the engine will be one tooth out of time (matching the belt marks). In this case use the belt marks and retime. Once you tension the belt it should pull the sprocket marks into correct position so that it appears sprockets and belt are all lined up. The other thing that could be happening is some engine marks are slightly off characteristically and its best to use the belt marks. Some engines its the opposite and i ignore the belt marks and just line up the sprockets. What year make model engine do you have?
@@EasyFixShaun It's 2010 caravan 4.0 ... I moved the cam a lil bit and put it back in place... It was 1 tooth behind but with tensioner realse it all got aligned and it was perfect appreciate your help... Thanks a lot
Great job getting it sorted out! Nothing wrong with removing and retiming :)
Genius ❤
Thanks! I am glad you liked it! 😃😃
Thank you sir
No problem. All the best 😀😀
🎉 thanks!!!!
🎉😀
Sorry to disappoint you your tip will not work on my 2005 Honda Pilot 3.5L engine because the cam gears over top of them have a housing over top of them that the belt goes through tried you trick on the rear camshaft and it gets stuck and will not turn through their my luck thank you wish It worked for but I have no luck that's why It jumped a tooth have a blessed day today 🙏
Sorry you are having trouble. Those motors can be hard to line up and the rear cam is very sharp and can cut you if you try to hold it while lining up the marks. That is the motor I use it on the most. So because of that I put the belt on, line up all marks except that cam. Then I use tension the belt and use the trick to fix the timing. It's way fast. Sometimes you need to get creative and line up one cam on any given motor that has a cover in the way, use the trick on the other cam and be strategic. Sorry it didn't work for you.
That lip over top of the cam gear is probably just the valve cover. I bet you could loosen your valve cover and lift it up fairly easily.
@@hardknoxblount Yup great tip! If it is plastic it can be flex tested to see if it has enough give for the tool to pass. Works great if there's enough flex. If aluminum or steel metal usually not gonna flex 😃
You need to look how the Honda Pilot engine is made out to take a it off you got to take the timing gear off but I took a. 150 long screw and used a rotary tool and made a pin it went across the cam gear and it worked thank for your hard work making videos and have a blessed day today 🙏
Great tip! You too 😃
What a wonderful bit of information.
Amazing.👍
This is the best... amazing! Thanks best friend!
You no problem! 😀😀
Will this not mess my spring loaded tensioner? My belt seems to be more lose now and dont run true on cam pulley
A properly functioning belt system has enough belt deflection to accommodate the trick. A spring or hydraulic tensioner shouldn't matter but it's hard to say. You may need to reset the spring tension depending on your set up. The belt should have curbs on select pulleys in the system to help it track properly. Does the belt seem like it's falling off or could fall off? What year make model engine are you working on?
@@EasyFixShaun pulleys have no curbs and are slightly wider then belt. It only dance around 3mm acros the pulley width so it will not come off. I will keep using it as it is just leave cover off for now to check if its not getting any worse. Engine is from fiat 500 1.2.
Ok. Are there any curbs on the camshaft and crank sprocket? Usually they will
put them there if they aren't anywhere else. There should be some somewhere on both sides of the belt. Be careful with the covers off. That is actually how I discovered the trick. Debris went into the belt and changed the timing 😀🔧
@Easy Fix they may be some curbs on waterpump pulley i need to double check later. Thanks for the advice about debris I have only top cover off so chances are small that anything will get in there
no problem 😃
Thanks!
Thank you!! Really appreciate 😀😀
I am so glad you shared this information. It save me a huge amount of time and stress.
You're the Best. thank you
No problem. Fun trick 😀😀
BRO !!!
Neat trick isn't it!? I learned it from a damaged cover that sent debris through a belt and changed its timing 😀🔧
Thanks!
You bet! Thank you so much. Makes a huge difference 😃🔧