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If it does not work

I'm pretty sure nearly all are. Just for fun, I Googled it. It says all are kn multiple different pages. And since it's on the internet, it's true 😉

Is the belt new?, could possibly be stretched/worn slightly if not. Check and re check. Make sure your cams are lined up and verify your crank for TDC. If your cams are good, and have some slack. If the crank mark is slightly off or a tooth out, it could be the culprit. Also, the tensioner may have come loose or not enough causing the slack. There are too many variables. That's why I triple check everything, if your not 100% always verify.

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It wasn't my personal vehicle, but that is 100% a good question. Worn bushings can absolutely contribute to high-speed vibration. Low speed vibrations are usually bent wheel, separated/bad tire wear, or severely loose/worn parts. High speed is generally out of balance tires, bent wheel and worn suspension components. I've also come across brake systems causing vibrations. (Warped rotors/dragging brakes) hope this helps. Thanks for watching.

That's a good question. It shouldn't bend the valves. You'd have to be pretty strong. With your spark plugs out rotating it by hand you should be able to feel if a piston makes any contact with a valve. Before you take anything apart, you always want to put it on top dead center and make sure that your cam marks are lined up before you even take your belt off. That will help keep from anything getting out of whack if, for some reason it does. You need to use extra care and start from the beginning and line everything up. I hope this helps. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner

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Hey brother I got a question for you my man, I changed my timing belt fired her up and she’s running rough, jumpy idle & wants to stall after being revved, I checked ignition timing and it’s way off. Advancing the distributor brings it closer to 16 degree mark but it’s still ways off also the engine noticeably quiets down and smooths out. Did I mess up the TDC timing some where along the cams? I know for sure 100% I was TDC at crank but the cam gear marks were iffy I just couldn’t dial it in. The up marks were slightly cocked to the left but middle marks were pointing directly towards each other but in comparison to your cams it was maybe a tooth down lower I need your expertise brother !

If your cam gears are reading even/correct, it's possible you're a tooth off on the crank gear. Pull your plugs and rotate the crank until it's at TDC. Then check your cams. If they are off, it would appear to be that the timing has been retarded (off a tooth). That's why it smooths out when you're advancing the distributor but still not getting the desired time. Start from square one, I know it sucks but it is better than engine damage, hope this helps.

Hey brother, I’m redoing the timing just wanted to ask for your knowledge on TDC for the crank to be sure. There’s play on the compression stroke, so my question would be do I stop cranking right when position reaches peak top position or continue cranking a little bit right before/ready to start it’s down stroke? Looking foward to your reply!

I know what you're talking about. The movement you are talking about is the slack at its furthest most point TDC. New/Fresh engines dont have that as they are tight. So what I do is turn the crank, while coming up on TDC the crank mark (could) be slightly off. Try rotating the crank back (very slightly) to line up the belt as it may want to be like half a tooth off. Verify cams and install belt. Rotate full revolution and verify you have TDC and everything is in time. Check, check and recheck ! Hope this helps.

You can do either. If the arm is damaged obviously its going to need replaced. You can replace just the bushing(s), which is far easier when removing the complete arm. Removing and pressing in a new bushing(s) whether you do both while it's apart or one at a time. Usually, if one needs replaced, both are worn. By the time you're done, it's just easier to replace as 1 unit. Cost vs Time is what it boils down to.

So if the arm(s) aren't damaged you could just do the L & R bushings and be done?@@mr.chos_garage

@sbrave absolutely! It's just way faster to do as a complete, but the cost is more.

Ohh yes, it just depends on the extension length.

97 Prelude daily 63 C10 Race

Thank you. Thanks for watching.

Glad it helped.

The washer helps track the belt and keeps from walking on the gear. Without it, your belt has the chance of rubbing on the cover.

The connection plug tab for the switch ? If it's dirty it can definitely make it harder to get it to release. If you can blow it out with air (wear safety glasses) try that. Also push the plug in and wiggle slightly to help free it up.

@@mr.chos_garage thx

I've done it that way also. It can work but also sometimes spins. Just depends on if the fan wants to come loose or not.

Thanks not my motor just did the work. As far as the pulley goes the aluminum is lighter than steel plus it's got windows which lighten it more. Less weight is less rotation resistance this will help allow the engine to spin up quicker. That is the main reason people switch to aluminum pulleys, (rotation mass).

The blocks casting has a small area just behind the intake manifold. Its tight but very do-able !

@@mr.chos_garage I think I'll need to give this a try. My gauge works fine, but I've got oil leaking down the back of the engine. The dealer replaced the oil pan gasket and cooler line block-off plate gasket along with transmission cooler lines and right front axle seal. The inspection hole does not show any evidence of a rear main leak (I hope not at 106k). I'm going to replace the valve cover gaskets as well, so hopefully most of my bases are covered. Thanks!

@@JRobert111111 I had the same leak on my 03 sierra. Running down the back, pressure sensor had a small weep. Get that socket I talk about, you'll thank yourself later !

@@mr.chos_garage Thanks! I just ordered the GM sensor and Lisle socket from RockAuto. Wish me luck!

I buy tools I need and some I might need I just got back into working on gm engines I took a screenshot of your comment I’m going to order the same piece thanks and I mean that to the both of you and as Stacy David would say keep those knuckles bloody

Awsome ! Glad to hear it worked. The videos are fun to make. Hoping to get back into making them again soon.

👍🏻, moved into a new home so hopfully be able to more often.

Assuming this is I the car still, and without visually seeing your crank Mark you should look or put something down into the cylnder. I would recommend a small wooden dowel or something that will move freely. Don't rotate the crankshaft all the way around but simply go back and forth in small increments slowly to verify you're at the top of the Apex of your top dead center. By removing your cams you've actually made it harder for yourself, so verify you're on your top dead center compression stroke. When your cams go back in your cam should be lining up with each other, put everything together and rotate it by hand slowly if there's any interference you'll feel the Piston touch the valve in this case you need to rotate back slightly and try again. You may be better off taking the crankshaft pulley back off and verifying with your eyes I know it's more work but you may have put yourself in a pickle. Hope this helps thanks for watching!

@@mr.chos_garage Thank you sir for your most detailed response. I respect your experienced approach. Your advice is well taken. I do have a question, you recommended not to rotate the crankshaft all the way around but to simply go back and forth in small increments. I always thought i should turn the crankshaft only one direction, counterclockwise. So you are saying its safe to move the crankshaft counterclockwise and clockwise to find the top dead center so long as its incrementally right?

Yes it's okay if you think about it nothing changes it's all in sync. The only real difference would be not getting oil into the passages cause the oil pump flows one direction. That aside yes rotating BY HAND is okay been doing it for over 20+ years. When you rotate to find TDC you will end up going past the mark (this commonly happens ), then you can go oppsite direction it find that Apex I was referring to earlier. It's the point where the Piston is all the way up, but not yet coming back down. That why I said to rotate clockwise/counterclockwise to find that point. Make sure you are on the compression stroke not exhaust. Once together rotate by hand multiple times around to verify you're have no interfearance.

@@mr.chos_garage Great advice. The way you describe your explanations are really precise and indicative of your experience. Thank you sir. Its giving me more confidence to keep working on my car. I look forward to your videos. From Los Angeles

Thank you 👍🏻 I'm hoping to do more videos sooner than later.

Thanks for the feedback, I'll work on it.

It's Showtime !!!

Thanks for watching.

There's a few different ways you can go about it. But if your cam gears are lined up and your crank mark is on point you be at TDC on the intake stroke. If your on the exhaust stroke your crank mark will line up but the cam gears will be off. If for some reason things got all bunged up, pull the valve cover and watch as you rotate the assembly, you'll be looking for the intake valve beginning to open after passing TDC. Hope this helps.

@@mr.chos_garage thanks so much 🏁

@@mr.chos_garage I got stage 2 cams and duel valve springs so I took spark plugs out but still is hard to rotate

Make sure the cams spin freely with the rockers disconnect. They should have little resistance. But besides that the dual springs are gonna give more resistance, when rotating it can be hard to stop where you want depending on the duration.

@@mr.chos_garage gotcha thanks so much bud 🏁

If your Crank gear is stuck I'd recommend a gear puller. They can be rented of you don't have one. As for the cams the stock cams have notches and arrows pointing up or say up.

Thanks 😊

I did Slackhawhip..with your Judi-chain.. Though I'm not the originator of the Judi, I do like to say it. Look up Dimond Dave ! 🤣

Sweet deal, your welcome 🙂

Thanks

This is a washer that keeps the belt from walking into the cover. You absolutely need to have that. Your belt will eventually rub until it breaks.

@@mr.chos_garage Yea i see. Im doing my 1st b swap. B18b1 into a 92 civic sedan. Just yesterday im looking around doing timing. Belt kept walking on me. Probaby at some point i misplaced that piece.