If it is really stuck pull the block, drill a 1/2 steel plate to fit the head bolt pattern. Fit a block of wood on top of the piston, place the plate on the wood block, install the nuts and torque down. You may have to shock it loose with a big hammer while under pressure. I've used this on a couple of old D's that were really stuck. One didn't have rings but the ring grooves were filled with compacted carbon.
I bought a tractor with a stuck engine. I jacked up one hind wheel, put it into high gear, and started rocking the wheel back and forth. The faster you can spin the wheel the better.
From personal experience: I came up with the bright idea to bolt an aluminum plate with a face o-ring and a grease fitting onto the cylinder block of a seized F-head Jeep engine. I pumped it full of grease and felt something give. Upon removing the plate, I saw a gaping hole in the cylinder wall and the piston had not moved. Cylinder walls are thin and weak due the need for water jackets. It took very little force on the grease gun handle to destroy the block.
You have the hard part done with some movement. Now wrap a length of cable (1/4" should work) around the flywheel a few times with an eye in one end. Then put the end of the longest/heaviest bar you have in the eye and lever the engine over till free. The cable wrap trick worked on a stuck JD 50 that I broke free.
Been breaking engines loose by grease pressure in the cylinder,, for 45 years or more,,we invented that process here in my neighborhood,, not bragging just stating a FACT!! MY FATHER COME UP WITH THAT IDEA AROUND 1978 OR SO,,
FYI that settle bulb is for trash in the gas tank ,I has a separate screw in switch for the oil pressure shutdown , I've have a all original untouched John Deere 50 with all the options and cider vinegar will unstick the clutch after spraying the clutch disc several days
Pull the oil pan off and put a hydraulic jack underneath the crank on one of the lobes Jack it up and let the pressure set overnight it'll break it free
Years ago I had an International truck with a red Diamond 6 cylinder engine that was stuck, we pulled the head one friday and put a mixture of atf fluid and wd40 on top of the pistons over the weekend and used a true 4 by 4 oak block and a sledge hammer and hit the tops of the cyinders I got on top of the engine and had someone else drive while we pulled it in gear went about 300 ft. and it broke loose i I still had to beat on the cylinders abit and broke loose we did an inframe overall and carb rebuild and I used that old R-190 International trk and a 34 ft flatbeed trailor to haul cotton bales from our gin to to the compress the next 4 years could load about 36 bales at a time. The truck was sold in 1980 at my granddads estate farm sale and the man that bought it drove it home
Pidley videos are ok.just keep em real.a tip on stuck stuff always cover the exhaust.pull all drains and check for water and rust.snug drains up an mix diesel an cheap oil or straight fuel no gas never.fill crank case all you can get in.fill the cylinders full.trany to and walk away for a couple months.when you try to free em up.rock em back an forth.dragging spins bearings and bends and break stuff sometimes.very good video.telling the story by steps.it's all good.ask viewers questions when you need.suggestions etc.real videos are never boring.good job.
You will be amazed what cider vinegar will do I a few days of use , it eats rust and nothing else . Used for many many years got it from and old John Deere dealer foreman mechanic 40 Year's ago
You should have sprayed the whole tractor down with kerosene or disel fuel ! That loosens every moving part up n keeps new weeds from growing up sround it, until you get to working on it .
It has a 4 spoke steering wheel. The 60's that had power steering had a 3 spook steering wheel. In 1956 John Deere made power steering slandered equipment on the 50, 60, & 70 models.
Is there a follow-up video with the tractor unstuck and the grease pumped and the tractor running and pulling a plow. You did a great job but with no follow-up video I'm heart broken. You could have heated the metal part on the plug and used pliers to pull the whole ceramic part out.
It may be better to use rust penetrant to free it , forcing it may break the rings/pistons , how are you going to get the grease out without a teardown ?
Just turn the engine over and it will blow out the exhaust or spark plug hole. That will get most then some solvent/gas will get the rest. I've used this method on a 4 cylinder Case that I had no way to lever over with a bar.
Did you know that the tractor has cock pits on it. Their up under neith. You open them and it will turn over alot easier. When it starts you clise them.ok 7:21
That white stuff in the spark plug isn't your dad's porcelain. It is a tough ceramic, as you found out. Try to find very old spark plugs for the fragile stuff.
With all that grease in the cylinder it still won't turn because the grease has mass. Will not turn free. Just prepare for a smoke show when it starts.
It does not have the tact out let, which is located on the left side of the engine. Also it des not have factory power steering. That tells me that it could be a late 1955 model.
You talk too much and haven't worked on nothing. Talk while you work. You're wanting to show us that you're fixing the tractor. Almost half way through you finally start turning a wrench.
@@etherbanditsgarage9313 obviously you are not to smart. the exhaust needs to be covered to keep rain/snow precipitation out of the engine. how do you think the engine got stuck in the first place? don't give me grief because of your failures.
@@Texaskeykeeper you fail to understand. its important for people who have tractors and other engines to keep water out of the exhaust so the engine doesn't rust up inside. you don't mention this so? someone has to.
If it is really stuck pull the block, drill a 1/2 steel plate to fit the head bolt pattern. Fit a block of wood on top of the piston, place the plate on the wood block, install the nuts and torque down. You may have to shock it loose with a big hammer while under pressure.
I've used this on a couple of old D's that were really stuck. One didn't have rings but the ring grooves were filled with compacted carbon.
I bought a tractor with a stuck engine. I jacked up one hind wheel, put it into high gear, and started rocking the wheel back and forth. The faster you can spin the wheel the better.
That’s a good idea
U can ben a piston rod that way, proceed with caution ⚠️
From personal experience: I came up with the bright idea to bolt an aluminum plate with a face o-ring and a grease fitting onto the cylinder block of a seized F-head Jeep engine. I pumped it full of grease and felt something give. Upon removing the plate, I saw a gaping hole in the cylinder wall and the piston had not moved. Cylinder walls are thin and weak due the need for water jackets.
It took very little force on the grease gun handle to destroy the block.
That 60 would make a great restoration project.
That’s kind of the hope to eventually restore it
I’ve seen a couple of yanks on UA-cam freeing up seized pistons by pouring acetone it one into all the bores & it finally freed up the engine
I dont know if that was the easy way to free a stuck engine but it worked.Im looking forward to seeing it running.
You have the hard part done with some movement. Now wrap a length of cable (1/4" should work) around the flywheel a few times with an eye in one end. Then put the end of the longest/heaviest bar you have in the eye and lever the engine over till free. The cable wrap trick worked on a stuck JD 50 that I broke free.
Check out my latest video I got it turning very smooth
You can buy fittings that go in spark plug holes. They're metric (German's set the spark plug standard).
I like your channel man keep up the good work I love that old iron
Thank you I enjoy playing this old iron as well
I used to farm with an old John Deere R in the late 70's. It ran great, including the gas pup motor.
Been breaking engines loose by grease pressure in the cylinder,, for 45 years or more,,we invented that process here in my neighborhood,, not bragging just stating a FACT!! MY FATHER COME UP WITH THAT IDEA AROUND 1978 OR SO,,
Hate to say but many people "came up with" that idea, good for him but it's been done that way even longer than he's been doing it.
@@platinumsky845just connect to plug hole?
Hate to tell you man but we did it in 77
FYI that settle bulb is for trash in the gas tank ,I has a separate screw in switch for the oil pressure shutdown , I've have a all original untouched John Deere 50 with all the options and cider vinegar will unstick the clutch after spraying the clutch disc several days
How about just taking the clutch apart it’s like 3 bolt and that way I can properly adjust it as well
That is an interesting method to get it to turn very cool
Pull the oil pan off and put a hydraulic jack underneath the crank on one of the lobes Jack it up and let the pressure set overnight it'll break it free
2 cylinders don’t have oil pans to get into the crankcase you go through the top
Years ago I had an International truck with a red Diamond 6 cylinder engine that was stuck, we pulled the head one friday and put a mixture of atf fluid and wd40 on top of the pistons over the weekend and used a true 4 by 4 oak block and a sledge hammer and hit the tops of the cyinders
I got on top of the engine and had someone else drive while we pulled it in gear went about 300 ft. and it broke loose i I still had to beat on the cylinders abit and broke loose we did an inframe overall and carb rebuild and I used that old R-190 International trk and a 34 ft flatbeed trailor to haul cotton bales from our gin to to the compress the next 4 years could load about 36 bales at a time. The truck was sold in 1980 at my granddads estate farm sale and the man that bought it drove it home
I love these old tractors, cant wait to hear it run. Also people making comments on here should be nice about it, why be nasty too others.
He can also bend the connecting rod on the other piston or even on the Piston that he's trying to push
I thought of that but when I’m playing with a 200$ tractor why would it matter that much? It never hurts to try new things
In our area it is hard to get John Deere parts so why would you want to ruin it for no reason at all
@@duanebolen543it's already "ruined", he's just giving it a better chance to work again.
We fill the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil and let soak overnight. Then throw 24 volts through the starter. It’s worked 100% of the time for us.
That’s a good idea
What about for a hand start JD model H?
Break up an old spark plug to make an adapter? Use the appropriate fitting from a compression tester, just don't use the hose.
Pidley videos are ok.just keep em real.a tip on stuck stuff always cover the exhaust.pull all drains and check for water and rust.snug drains up an mix diesel an cheap oil or straight fuel no gas never.fill crank case all you can get in.fill the cylinders full.trany to and walk away for a couple months.when you try to free em up.rock em back an forth.dragging spins bearings and bends and break stuff sometimes.very good video.telling the story by steps.it's all good.ask viewers questions when you need.suggestions etc.real videos are never boring.good job.
You will be amazed what cider vinegar will do I a few days of use , it eats rust and nothing else . Used for many many years got it from and old John Deere dealer foreman mechanic 40 Year's ago
Brake fluid works to break pistons loose.
Get an old grenade from military surplus place it under the stuck cylinder, pull the pin, and run. (Don't forget to cover your ears).
You can never have too many tractors.
Why not use an adapter for a compensation gauge
I love that tractor, Canada
Replace the porcelain and all that weld Flux with a fine threaded slug. Drill the center and there ya go.
a cutting disc the 1mm type ones would have been faster and you cut that small ring before you break the porcelain thats what holds it in there
You talked about disconnecting one piston...did you do that and if so how???
I didn’t end up doing that but if I would have there is a cover on the top of the crankcase that gives access to the rods to disconnect them
You should have sprayed the whole tractor down with kerosene or disel fuel ! That loosens every moving part up n keeps new weeds from growing up sround it, until you get to working on it .
You should have left a valve open slightly to bleed the air out
If you have a stuck valve, the grease will escape.
Put cleaning "ammonia " into the cylinder and let it stand for a couple of days.
Are you grounding your welder through the vise? Never a good idea unless I missed something.
Why it’s worked for a long time for me
It’s not a good idea because you’re ground is running through the screw of the vice. At least you should ground directly to the solid side jaw.
@@gunrunner4747
True, you should always ground directly to your project you are welding
It has a 4 spoke steering wheel. The 60's that had power steering had a 3 spook steering wheel. In 1956 John Deere made power steering slandered equipment on the 50, 60, & 70 models.
Is there a follow-up video with the tractor unstuck and the grease pumped and the tractor running and pulling a plow. You did a great job but with no follow-up video I'm heart broken. You could have heated the metal part on the plug and used pliers to pull the whole ceramic part out.
There is several follow up videos I got it running and am currently looking for tires
@Ether Bandit’s Garage sorry I didn't realize those videos were of the same tractor. I see now grease worked, but was a nasty cleanup.
It may be better to use rust penetrant to free it , forcing it may break the rings/pistons , how are you going to get the grease out without a teardown ?
Just turn the engine over and it will blow out the exhaust or spark plug hole. That will get most then some solvent/gas will get the rest. I've used this method on a 4 cylinder Case that I had no way to lever over with a bar.
I did actually have the cylinders full of atf before I put a grease gun on it so it did have some lubricatiom
Did you know that the tractor has cock pits on it. Their up under neith. You open them and it will turn over alot easier. When it starts you clise them.ok 7:21
About all of the 52 model 60s had oval slots in the rear cast wheels. Someone change them or it's a VERY late 52.
I noticed that as well when I purchased it and thought it was pretty weird my 52 50 has slots in the rear centers
You can bend things, I've heard by force. I'd prefer not bending things. After all, it's already been sitting a long time.
Yes but on a tractor with little to no value why not try new things
@@etherbanditsgarage9313 Running JD 60. Maybe as much as $2,000.
@@williamsnipes7608yes, a RUNNING 60.
Can you make me some of the spark plug things? lmao
How many do you want
That white stuff in the spark plug isn't your dad's porcelain. It is a tough ceramic, as you found out. Try to find very old spark plugs for the fragile stuff.
Good point
Just a FYI if the clutch is stuck the motor wont turn.
Next time fill the cyclinders with Kerosene NOT ATF!
Close them not clise them. Sorry. I've got a 1953 john deere 70 gas. 9:49
The rings still be frozen to the pistons
Stay tuned for war is to come it will definitely be exciting
Grease jerk? You mean grease zerk?
With all that grease in the cylinder it still won't turn because the grease has mass. Will not turn free. Just prepare for a smoke show when it starts.
You can heat up the metal part up on the plug and the porcelain will come out
nO that glass bowl is the sediment bowl out of the Gas tank, LOL
I want to remove the oil pressure activated sediment bowl that was a fail from the factory and put a manual sediment bowl on it
Take the clutch apart first then free the engine.
Watch the next video in the series you will find out what is wrong with the clutch
So you're busting the spark plug up, welding up the spark plug hole, re-drilling the spark plug hole and tapping it to do what ??????.
It does not have the tact out let, which is located on the left side of the engine. Also it des not have factory power steering. That tells me that it could be a late 1955 model.
Use vinegar like puddins fab shop
If there is a valve open it won't work
That’s why I pulled the valve cover
Why does three in one rust preventer come in plastic can instead of the old reliables metal can?
Afraid of rust?
No idea
It is not a 52, because it has 1956 rear cast wheels.
Your gonna tell me that they couldn’t have been changed at some point
wouldnt a disc grinder be easier
How do you plan on getting the grease out of the cylinders? Dumbest solution I ever heard of.
Two words: STACK CAP
What
Turn the starter
Put a nut on it the same as the alimite and weld it
The clutch is stuck
To much talk and no action
You talk too much and haven't worked on nothing. Talk while you work. You're wanting to show us that you're fixing the tractor. Almost half way through you finally start turning a wrench.
I like to explain what I’m doing and give a little bit of a back story
@@etherbanditsgarage9313the stories are fine but it could be said while youre working. time wasted
@@etherbanditsgarage9313 kinda like whistle while you work
Man guys just be whining on here
Grease Zerk
dont weld the vise shut LOL
not even enough sense to cover the exhaust.
Did you not notice that I got the engine unstuck so what’s it matter if the exhaust was or wasn’t covered
We pulled this out of a fence row where it had been uncovered for many many years. I don't think there was too much harm in a couple more days.
@@etherbanditsgarage9313 obviously you are not to smart. the exhaust needs to be covered to keep rain/snow precipitation out of the engine. how do you think the engine got stuck in the first place? don't give me grief because of your failures.
@@Texaskeykeeper you fail to understand. its important for people who have tractors and other engines to keep water out of the exhaust so the engine doesn't rust up inside. you don't mention this so? someone has to.
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