Good job Man .....an old buddy use to fill the cylinders with an equal mix of diesel and kerosene and leave it for a very long time , he would be about 100 if he was still with us. I was truly blessed to be his buddy ! RIP James ! 😉🙃😎 NZ
I've hot a seized 4 cyl. And I'm always interested in different techniques to free up stuck engines, I admire your persistence and innovative ways to free yours up
We have an LA here that had a stuck motor when we got it. We freed it up by making an adapter to thread in place of a spark plug to hook a grease gun up and pump it up. It took some work, but it did the job!
Waiting for part two......i was looking for ways to unseized an engine, i have a 1972 318, stoped for 30 years, so , that was good inspiration. Thank you
@@DaveJennings-y5o I don't doubt your comments as I don't know much about this stuff. To me what was done so far is just black magic. But why do you think that? Do you think replacing the valve is necessary? Is that a huge job?
What an excellent video showing your deliberate, persistent, measured, calculated, and calm approach to resolving your problem. These can be applied to many other things in life. I appreciated that you did not fill the audio with foul language. This shows that doing so is not needed to accomplish your goal. There is much to be learned from this in addition to the rehab of the tractor. Thank you for showing, in a classy way, what can be accomplished if we choose to do so.
😍😍🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩 YOU ARE " DILIGENT " and persistence pays reward !!!!! So far it looks like a winning hand. Those were very nice pieces of machinery in their hay days. I rode one pulling a two bottom back in the 60's without a muffler, what a bellow in the night air!!!😏😏😵💫😵💫 THANKS FOR THE "TAG-ALONG" GOD BLESS 🙏🙏 😍😍😍😍😍
A 49 LA is exactly what my father taught me to drive on. Those big lugging tractors were commonly referred to here in KS as "wheatland" tractors. They could pull a 5 bottom moldboard play around a 640 scre (one full section) field. Edited at the end to say nicely done! I am amzed you got it free without taking the head off and/or dropping the pan - good job!
Great video. My dad had a LA for years. That is one that I used to pull 4-14” plow and a 10’ disc and a 3 section Brillion Cultillitcher. I could hardly see over the hood. I thought I was on top of the world. Memories. No individual brakes the drawbar would swing totally from wheel What a tractor
Bravo to you for getting the engine unsiezed! Fought the same battle with a Briggs and Stratton engine on a Troybilt 5500 Watt generator I found on the curb. I lost. Even with a sledgehammer on the piston and lots of penetrating oil, never came unsiezed. I bought a replacement engine in the end. I wish you nothing but success in getting this tractor started and running! Great work Randy!
I really enjoyed this video. I think you spent a lot of time editing out unnecessary scenes because all the content was interesting and kept my attention. Your very good with the narrative also. I think the production is comparable to anything made by professionals. Excellent job! You found another useful talent!
Just when yer admiring the thoughtful mechanical methodology..ya realize mechanics also have to be a bit more tougher than an old rusty beautiful USA tractor! Nice to see it has landed into competent hands. Thanks for the schooling.
Randy ya'll went above and beyond the call of duty on this Case. I wondered when ya'll would give up. I especially felt glum after it moved then tightened back up. The tale will be told this summer. As it works and keeps on working THEN SUCCESS. Oh yes Randy, I really like this Case. Number three needs some rust melt liquid like either Solvo Rust or that old time gel for absorbing rust, especially #3. Otherwise vinager, or muriatic acid will be a good friend.
At least you are persistent. In a case like this I have had good luck heating the whole block/pistons with a heat gun in the water inlet to the block. On a recent one I insulated the block and let it cook up to 250 degrees F. After that cycle and cooled back down I was able to break it free with force. The tractor runs great now.
l soaked an engine free. it is a one cylinder marine engine. i had it in the cellar next to the boiler. it took 17 years. i had a steam car come to the farm for repairs. it too was stuck. i used the hydraulic system that you did and it came free. i agree with everything that you are doing. my advise... loosen the rod caps and see which piston is stuck. work one at a time. be certain you are not fighting a bearing. my best wishes, and thank you for preserving our farming heritage. i wish i could help you more.
For a while there I was worried I was fighting a bearing. Once I pulled the side plates everything looked fine so I figured I was good to go. Assuming that if it had a spun bearing you would see some discoloration on the rod cap.
I'd agree with you! Looks big a cool. And it has straight fenders which is rare these days 😂 Good job getting it unstuck! Can't wait to see the next video!!
Owned both Ford & Case agricultural & Construction equipment, From UK Great to see someone who is willing to persevere with this old equipment and show the viewers exactly what is happening rather then continuously skip vital information by not filming what you have just achieved, Keep up the great shows 🇮🇪.
I liked it, I'm not able to play anymore, enjoyed watching ! Can still make it to the Barn, but not the Fair anymore, Fulton :-) would like to see it !
in addition to the many "helpful" ideas offered in the comments I would recommend use of vinegar, CLR or other weak acid fill the problem cylinder and let soak. All the hydrocarbon rust busters really do not attack rust, but vinegar which is an acid will. If you have a block heater that is high output it would be a great way to sustain some useful heat to speed up the work of the acid. Suck pistons are really problematic because there is virtually no access to the corrosion layer between the piston and cylinder. My preference would have been to remove the head and get direct access to the stuck piston, then use hammer, acid and direct heat to the piston and cylinder. As it is I think it would be quite surprising if the piston rings are not all stuck in the grooves, but maybe luck will shine on you and with some solvents in the oil you can achieve a decent cleanup and freeup as the engine gets some run time. Really inspiring video, thank you!
Interesting video. Thanks for sharing it. I certainly admire your ingenuity and perseverance. I think I would have pulled the engine because it's probably going to need it anyway if you want to restore it to new condition. Look forward to the next episode!👍
Bouncing on the bar reminded me of undoing wheel nut bolts on Coaches 47 years ago doing my apprenticeship. Made me smile. Stage 1 done. Not sure if Coca Cola down the bores might have helped.
A good friend went at his VAC much the same way. He got it to turn over but he did a lot of carnage with a few busted rings snapped tappets and what ever else could break. The scopes are great to show which way to go. I didn't see a rain cap on yours though, or if it was left in a roofless spot. Nice find .
You pulled out all of the stops on something that most would've sent to the shredder. my dad and I unstuck a 1952 SC, wasn't this hard to do, but every time you crank it over and it fires off is a reward. You'll have the same with this one!
Take all the oils out of the cylinders and fill each cylinder with Coca-Cola, let sit for 48 hours. I have never had it fail me. Once freed up, drain cylinders by blowing them out and add oil to them. Leave plugs out while pulling the tractor around for a bit to lubricate the rings. Blow everything out again, install plugs and proceed with the next steps to get it running again. Best of luck to you! I love seeing old iron revived.
Gotta give you credit for the persistance and working outdoors. We had two LA Case tractors back in the 60s and used them for plowing mostly but gas prices drove us to using diesels so both LA tractors are gone. You will probably get that old girl to run but to get much HP you will probably have to re-sleeve it with new pistons and rings. Most likely looking at a total overhaul but looking at the rest of it, well worth it.
Here's the best technique. As proved by success with a 36 Farmall F12. Bought it for almost free. Rubber tires. Wouldn't turn over. Pulled her home. Took the oil pan off and disconnected the connecting rods and tied a piece of binder twine around the lower end of the rods and gave them a series of jerks to loosen all of the pistons up. When they were all free put her back together. Gave her some gas. Hooked her up to the back of my old pickup truck and pulled her down the driveway. And away she went. Was still running when I sold her many years later.
Amazing persistence and tenacity but even though you succeeded in getting it to run - it needs a total rebuild to work properly - I'd have used the time you put in to dismantle. But each to their own - will look in again.
Randy, I am very interested to hear it run soon. Atop the exhaust pipe, it needs an adapter to prevent rain water from getting down the exhaust and into the engine. That is probably what messed it up in the first place. I imagine there is a lot of water in the crankcase that needs draining out asap. Thanks for all the persistence. Yes, those valve keepers must be changed out right away. I have worked with stuck engines also. I liked your example of using hydraulic pressure to move #3 up and down. Seems like you are very close to getting it running. Before spinning it any more, get out the old oil and water out of the crankcase and replace with fresh oil. Let it spin awhile with the plugs out, to get oil pressure up and everything lubricated before trying to run it. The carburetor will need good cleanout and rust removal. So will the fuel tank. Good luck with those next- steps. I must say that I greatly liked reading of the person who used the mild vinegar acid trick while leaving some (tractor weight) pressure on the crankshaft and letting time do its work very appealing to hopefully free up piston rings that are probably frozen in the piston grooves, as well as eliminate piston seizure in the cylinder(s). He found after some days that his jack had indeed turned the crankshaft by the tractor's own weight once the rust was dissolved. Brilliant. No great pressure was applied to any one part, which is also brilliant. Just time did the work. I also like another post speaking of doing the same thing but applying Marvel Mystery oil and waiting for the tractor to drop when MMO eventually dissolved all the issues. Probably that frees up rings stuck in the piston grooves almost as well. Hope to see it run soon.
What I did with my tractor is fill the cylinders as you did with automatic transmission fluid and acetone and then drain the antifreeze and fill the cooling system with boiling water to expand the cylinders. Then I took the starter off and put pressure on the ring gear teeth with a bar and then managed to get it loose
To unseize your engine , pull the plugs and fill the cylinders with laquer thinner, put the plugs back in a few turns and let it set a few days . The engine should loosen up with a little back and forth action but don't FORCE it ! Then drain fluids - - the usual routine to bring it back alive . keep us posted !
When their that stuck its better to pull the head & clean up the rust, all you'll end up doing is causing damage to piston & rings. Even thou piston is free you know the rings are gonna be rusted solid to the piston. Good job getting it free, looking forward to it running
Im not a Case guy but that is a cool big old tractor. At least you saved it from a scrapper. It looks like maybe it sat in someone's collection just a little too long without being started once in a while
This was my dad's tractor. I just posted the video of when we pulled it to the sale. Glad to see what your doing with it !
That's awesome! I'd love to know some history on it, feel free to send me an email at contactrandysrelics @gmail.com
Thanks, learnt a few things. Hope I can see it running!
@@Randys_Relics))lll)))
Good job Man .....an old buddy use to fill the cylinders with an equal mix of diesel and kerosene and leave it for a very long time , he would be about 100 if he was still with us. I was truly blessed to be his buddy ! RIP James ! 😉🙃😎 NZ
Beeing persistent, calm and tolerant we can win any situation, i admire those people.
I've hot a seized 4 cyl. And I'm always interested in different techniques to free up stuck engines, I admire your persistence and innovative ways to free yours up
Boy, You have immense persistence. Good job!!
That hydraulic trick to push the piston down is genius 👌
Excellent Video. 👍👍👍. Better than a lot of crap on TV.
Quite a battle to free the old girl up. Slow and easy wins the race. Great job!
Simply thrilling.And in the beginning I thought I'll never make it to the end :-)
We have an LA here that had a stuck motor when we got it. We freed it up by making an adapter to thread in place of a spark plug to hook a grease gun up and pump it up. It took some work, but it did the job!
That much pressure runs the risk of blowing the head gasket. You were lucky.
Gives new meaning to stubbornness. Well done.
As a barely qualified "parts changer" , I'm impressed with your persistence.
I have no idea why i watched this ,but I really liked it.
Waiting for part two......i was looking for ways to unseized an engine, i have a 1972 318, stoped for 30 years, so , that was good inspiration. Thank you
Eager to see it run. I would have probably given up on that old Case. Glad to see that you persevered.
Amazing the way you did that. Farmers are the best engineers!
Good going Murray! That's what I call a Real Family Album! Enjoyed the tour, once again, too. Be well. Richard from Virginia!
You, sir, are a professional!
I AM IMPRESSED WITH YOUR PERSISTENCE. THANK YOU
Thanks for watching!
Good job being persistent and not breaking anything
What a stubborn machine. Glad you made that progress toward saving the beast.
Nice work! Most people would have given up after a couple of days. Looking forward to seeing it run again!
#3’s valve was probably, at least, partially open therefore rust.
It won't run very good
@@DaveJennings-y5o
I don't doubt your comments as I don't know much about this stuff. To me what was done so far is just black magic. But why do you think that? Do you think replacing the valve is necessary? Is that a huge job?
When it comes to old case tractor's you got my attention. Lol . Most all tractor videos I watch . But case is my favorite. Thanks for a great video
A ounce of persistence is worth more than a pound of talent.
What an excellent video showing your deliberate, persistent, measured, calculated, and calm approach to resolving your problem. These can be applied to many other things in life. I appreciated that you did not fill the audio with foul language. This shows that doing so is not needed to accomplish your goal. There is much to be learned from this in addition to the rehab of the tractor. Thank you for showing, in a classy way, what can be accomplished if we choose to do so.
You definitely show many ways to unstick a motor. Excellent Video Randy
LOVE IT ! You're a trooper! Bravo to your Success!! Can't wait to hear it run..
Man you got large brass ones! You definitely have more patience than I. I would have taken it a part. Thanks for sharing. I can’t wait for another.
Congrats Randy, on finally getting the motor to turn over.
😍😍🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩 YOU ARE " DILIGENT " and persistence pays reward !!!!! So far it looks like a winning hand. Those were very nice pieces of machinery in their hay days. I rode one pulling a two bottom back in the 60's without a muffler, what a bellow in the night air!!!😏😏😵💫😵💫
THANKS FOR THE "TAG-ALONG" GOD BLESS 🙏🙏 😍😍😍😍😍
Great video. Looking forward to next episode.
Thanks for showing different ways to getting that engine to turn over
A 49 LA is exactly what my father taught me to drive on. Those big lugging tractors were commonly referred to here in KS as "wheatland" tractors. They could pull a 5 bottom moldboard play around a 640 scre (one full section) field. Edited at the end to say nicely done! I am amzed you got it free without taking the head off and/or dropping the pan - good job!
Such admirable patience and perseverance.👍
always glad to see the old ones come back.i am a big case fan.thank you.
Cool ole tractor can't wait to see it running 🤠🤠🤠
Congrats! Was disappointed it was a cliffhanger! Hung on every second and loved everything about it. Thanks for taking the time to film this so well!
Thanks for watching!
Great video. My dad had a LA for years. That is one that I used to pull 4-14” plow and a 10’ disc and a 3 section Brillion Cultillitcher. I could hardly see over the hood. I thought I was on top of the world. Memories. No individual brakes the drawbar would swing totally from wheel What a tractor
This is a good example on how not to break a seized engine loose
Very excited to see you got it to roll over! You've got plenty of patience no doubt about it. I definitely want to see you get it running..
Incredible tenacity and persistence. Congrats, Randy. Never give up!
Bravo to you for getting the engine unsiezed! Fought the same battle with a Briggs and Stratton engine on a Troybilt 5500 Watt generator I found on the curb. I lost. Even with a sledgehammer on the piston and lots of penetrating oil, never came unsiezed. I bought a replacement engine in the end. I wish you nothing but success in getting this tractor started and running! Great work Randy!
Man!!! You’re AWESOME!!! You have sure earned my subscription!!!
I really enjoyed this video. I think you spent a lot of time editing out unnecessary scenes because all the content was interesting and kept my attention. Your very good with the narrative also. I think the production is comparable to anything made by professionals. Excellent job! You found another useful talent!
Just when yer admiring the thoughtful mechanical methodology..ya realize mechanics also have to be a bit more tougher than an old rusty beautiful USA tractor! Nice to see it has landed into competent hands. Thanks for the schooling.
Randy ya'll went above and beyond the call of duty on this Case. I wondered when ya'll would give up. I especially felt glum after it moved then tightened back up. The tale will be told this summer. As it works and keeps on working THEN SUCCESS. Oh yes Randy, I really like this Case. Number three needs some rust melt liquid like either Solvo Rust or that old time gel for absorbing rust, especially #3. Otherwise vinager, or muriatic acid will be a good friend.
If it was a stuck valve ,i would think it would bend the push rod's? Man is doing a great job.
Proud of ya😁
I've worked on a couple before that had stuck valves that someone else tried to get running. Pushrods were bent.
33:37 😊 34:58 34:59 34:59 34:59
That tractor is in very nice shape... a shame it was left until it seized... looking forward to hopefully seeing it run.
At least you are persistent. In a case like this I have had good luck heating the whole block/pistons with a heat gun in the water inlet to the block. On a recent one I insulated the block and let it cook up to 250 degrees F. After that cycle and cooled back down I was able to break it free with force. The tractor runs great now.
Well done , you got there in the end , persistence pays off !!
Great video! If you learned something it was worth the time and energy. Thanks for sharing, I’m looking forward to seeing you start it up!
l soaked an engine free. it is a one cylinder marine engine. i had it in the cellar next to the boiler. it took 17 years. i had a steam car come to the farm for repairs. it too was stuck. i used the hydraulic system that you did and it came free. i agree with everything that you are doing. my advise... loosen the rod caps and see which piston is stuck. work one at a time. be certain you are not fighting a bearing. my best wishes, and thank you for preserving our farming heritage. i wish i could help you more.
For a while there I was worried I was fighting a bearing. Once I pulled the side plates everything looked fine so I figured I was good to go. Assuming that if it had a spun bearing you would see some discoloration on the rod cap.
I'd agree with you! Looks big a cool. And it has straight fenders which is rare these days 😂
Good job getting it unstuck! Can't wait to see the next video!!
I have to give you several points for persistence. Good luck getting him to go.
Congrats on freeing that tractor up! Good luck on finishing up the project!
Good job so far my friend! I hope you get her running! Thanks for sharing and I hope to see the next video! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Owned both Ford & Case agricultural & Construction equipment, From UK Great to see someone who is willing to persevere with this old equipment and show the viewers exactly what is happening rather then continuously skip vital information by not filming what you have just achieved, Keep up the great shows 🇮🇪.
I liked it, I'm not able to play anymore, enjoyed watching ! Can still make it to the Barn, but not the Fair anymore, Fulton :-) would like to see it !
I actually enjoyed your video Patience is a rare thing and you Randy have lots of it. Looking forward to seeing if she runs. Great work.
I’m shouting at the screen…”take the rocker cover off and check for a stuck valve!” … etc 😅😂
Me too lol, when they dragged it on the road, if it were a stuck valve, it would definitely have bent
No kidding!!!!
This is how it goes when someone forms an opinion and sticks to it.
Could have done a rebuild on this in half the time!
I REALLY want to see that case start up. You have the patience of Job!
Amazing detail
I would have pulled that head long ago. Hope you get her running. Cheers from eastern TN
in addition to the many "helpful" ideas offered in the comments I would recommend use of vinegar, CLR or other weak acid fill the problem cylinder and let soak. All the hydrocarbon rust busters really do not attack rust, but vinegar which is an acid will. If you have a block heater that is high output it would be a great way to sustain some useful heat to speed up the work of the acid. Suck pistons are really problematic because there is virtually no access to the corrosion layer between the piston and cylinder. My preference would have been to remove the head and get direct access to the stuck piston, then use hammer, acid and direct heat to the piston and cylinder. As it is I think it would be quite surprising if the piston rings are not all stuck in the grooves, but maybe luck will shine on you and with some solvents in the oil you can achieve a decent cleanup and freeup as the engine gets some run time. Really inspiring video, thank you!
Interesting video. Thanks for sharing it. I certainly admire your ingenuity and perseverance. I think I would have pulled the engine because it's probably going to need it anyway if you want to restore it to new condition. Look forward to the next episode!👍
Bouncing on the bar reminded me of undoing wheel nut bolts on Coaches 47 years ago doing my apprenticeship. Made me smile. Stage 1 done. Not sure if Coca Cola down the bores might have helped.
Kudos for Persistence! Looking forward to follow-up Video!
Greetings from Germany🤓👍
I was willing you on! well done, there was a lot of thinking went on to make it happen. Cheers jim in NZ.
HA! I have one of those old mechanical floor jacks! Awesome video man.
Great video! Glad I stumbled across your channel! Has now become a regular watch!!
Great job - thanks for showing us how to approach a seized-up tractor, w/o destroying the motor.
A good friend went at his VAC much the same way. He got it to turn over but he did a lot of carnage with a few busted rings snapped tappets and what ever else could break. The scopes are great to show which way to go. I didn't see a rain cap on yours though, or if it was left in a roofless spot. Nice find .
Looks like a can on the exhaust.
brilliant , love your thinking about how to get that engine free , looks such a fine tractor , can't wait to see how it goes next
Persistent!!! I have an old Miller diesel welder,1972. that still works and welds fine. I only had to clean the commutator and the fuel system.
Great video. You certainly have a lot of patience and tenacity. Hope you eventually got the pig going 😁😁
You pulled out all of the stops on something that most would've sent to the shredder. my dad and I unstuck a 1952 SC, wasn't this hard to do, but every time you crank it over and it fires off is a reward. You'll have the same with this one!
Ya ,I'm loving it. I've got the CLASSIC TRACTOR FEVER too.😂
Take all the oils out of the cylinders and fill each cylinder with Coca-Cola, let sit for 48 hours. I have never had it fail me. Once freed up, drain cylinders by blowing them out and add oil to them. Leave plugs out while pulling the tractor around for a bit to lubricate the rings. Blow everything out again, install plugs and proceed with the next steps to get it running again. Best of luck to you! I love seeing old iron revived.
It wasn’t a long enough video but thanks for showing part one.
Such a great outcome! you stuck with it and it paid off. Thank you for the great video.
next time fill the cylinders with diesel for a week or two Great vid cant wait for the part 2
Gotta give you credit for the persistance and working outdoors. We had two LA Case tractors back in the 60s and used them for plowing mostly but gas prices drove us to using diesels so both LA tractors are gone. You will probably get that old girl to run but to get much HP you will probably have to re-sleeve it with new pistons and rings. Most likely looking at a total overhaul but looking at the rest of it, well worth it.
I once had an old pump motor with a seized piston. A old mechanic suggested automatic trans oil. I did follow the sugestion and it worked very well.
Transmission fluid and Kerosene 50/50 and let it soak the best stuff there is.
Glad you got it moving 👍
Good film Randy don't forget to do that valve retainer before you start it. don't want it to drop a valve at this stage. Regards Steve. UK
Nice old Tractor !!!!!
Well done great patience
you arre the most determined guy I have seen good job
Here's the best technique. As proved by success with a 36 Farmall F12. Bought it for almost free. Rubber tires. Wouldn't turn over. Pulled her home. Took the oil pan off and disconnected the connecting rods and tied a piece of binder twine around the lower end of the rods and gave them a series of jerks to loosen all of the pistons up. When they were all free put her back together. Gave her some gas. Hooked her up to the back of my old pickup truck and pulled her down the driveway. And away she went. Was still running when I sold her many years later.
Amazing persistence and tenacity but even though you succeeded in getting it to run - it needs a total rebuild to work properly - I'd have used the time you put in to dismantle. But each to their own - will look in again.
Randy, I am very interested to hear it run soon. Atop the exhaust pipe, it needs an adapter to prevent rain water from getting down the exhaust and into the engine. That is probably what messed it up in the first place. I imagine there is a lot of water in the crankcase that needs draining out asap. Thanks for all the persistence. Yes, those valve keepers must be changed out right away. I have worked with stuck engines also. I liked your example of using hydraulic pressure to move #3 up and down. Seems like you are very close to getting it running. Before spinning it any more, get out the old oil and water out of the crankcase and replace with fresh oil. Let it spin awhile with the plugs out, to get oil pressure up and everything lubricated before trying to run it. The carburetor will need good cleanout and rust removal. So will the fuel tank. Good luck with those next- steps.
I must say that I greatly liked reading of the person who used the mild vinegar acid trick while leaving some (tractor weight) pressure on the crankshaft and letting time do its work very appealing to hopefully free up piston rings that are probably frozen in the piston grooves, as well as eliminate piston seizure in the cylinder(s). He found after some days that his jack had indeed turned the crankshaft by the tractor's own weight once the rust was dissolved. Brilliant. No great pressure was applied to any one part, which is also brilliant. Just time did the work. I also like another post speaking of doing the same thing but applying Marvel Mystery oil and waiting for the tractor to drop when MMO eventually dissolved all the issues. Probably that frees up rings stuck in the piston grooves almost as well.
Hope to see it run soon.
What I did with my tractor is fill the cylinders as you did with automatic transmission fluid and acetone and then drain the antifreeze and fill the cooling system with boiling water to expand the cylinders. Then I took the starter off and put pressure on the ring gear teeth with a bar and then managed to get it loose
I will give you this YOU ARE VERY ABLE TO WORK ON THIS CASE.
To unseize your engine , pull the plugs and fill the cylinders with laquer thinner, put the plugs back in a few turns and let it set a few days . The engine should loosen up with a little back and forth action
but don't FORCE it ! Then drain fluids - - the usual routine to bring it back alive . keep us posted !
Looking forward to the run!
When their that stuck its better to pull the head & clean up the rust, all you'll end up doing is causing damage to piston & rings. Even thou piston is free you know the rings are gonna be rusted solid to the piston. Good job getting it free, looking forward to it running
Im not a Case guy but that is a cool big old tractor. At least you saved it from a scrapper. It looks like maybe it sat in someone's collection just a little too long without being started once in a while
Good job staying with it. When do we get to see the functioning tractor?
Hope to get back on it soon!
The Vice Grip Garage method certainly helped! "Heat, juice, heat, juice, heat, juice..."
Hauled a case LA for a buddy. Man they take a big circle to turn around.