Check Your Tesla Plug❗️ Why you MUST get an Industrial Grade Outlet 🔥 Tesla Recommended Receptacle
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- In this quick video I want to emphasize the importance of using the correct nema 14-50 receptacle to charge your tesla at home. Ever since I moved to savannah and bought a home with a garage, I’ve been charging my tesla with a 10 dollar 14-50 outlet I had installed. 👇🏻
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I’d plug in my model 3 about once a week using the mobile connector that comes with the car. If you are familiar with the mobile charger specs, the car will continually pull 32 Amps from that receptacle until the tesla is charged at your chosen percentage. Depending on the state of charge for your tesla, this can be, well sometimes for my case up to 7 hours to charge while I sleep. This will generate a lot of heat on that outlet and also the mobile charger UMC box. I didn’t think anything of it and thought it was normal. After about 6 months have passed; charging my model 3 about once a week. I received this notification on my car's screen. “Charge rate reduced- Wall plug temperature high” and it further reads to check wiring installation. My charge rate at night dropped from 32 amps down to 20 amps and sometimes when I’d wake up to find out the car had not even completed charging after 8 hours. I further read into this and found that not all nema 14-50 outlets are created equal. In fact; straight from tesla’s website, it recommends using a high quality industrial grade outlet. One that can handle the continuous output of 32 amps for many hours without getting too hot. First off, thank you to the tesla mobile connector for recognizing this issue by lowering the amperage. The last thing you want is an electrical fire to burn down your house because of a cheap outlet you bought at home depot. After I read this issue on my tesla screen, I immediately ordered a replacement receptacle from amazon since I could not find an industrial grade one at any big box retail store. This Hubbell brand nema 14-50 receptacle cost me about 90 dollars and what I first noticed was the weight difference in comparison to the Eaton brand outlet that cost 10 bucks. The Hubbel outlet felt heavier and more durable. Even the tork hexagon screw with the solid copper fitting was far superior over the flat head tork screw from the Eaton brand. While there was no evidence of melting or over use on the Eaton receptacle, I didn't want to take the risk and find out later. Here are some pictures of other tesla owners I found who also used cheap receptacles. Again don’t be that person to risk your home and your tesla to a fire. I understand that tesla has safeguards in place to prevent this from happening, like what we saw; the UMC cord will just lower the amperage when it senses something is not right, but I’d rather not test those limits. Go ahead and just spend the extra money on something with quality and what tesla recommends to use. If you’d rather not use a receptacle with the included mobile charger; I would recommend purchasing a tesla wall connector. This will be a little more expensive than the nema outlet I installed. Now I felt very comfortable swapping out this outlet myself, however; if you do not know much about electricity; do not attempt to do this yourself. Please hire a professional electrician. Also if you are upgrading your outlet I found out that my old face plate was too small to fit around the new Hubbel brand outlet. I ordered the correct Hubbel outlet cover which I could not find at either home depot or lowes yet alone an industrial grade 14-50 receptacle. If you found this video helpful, if you wouldn't mind clicking that like button below so other tesla owners can find this, I would really appreciate it. I’m also doing Live youtube streams every sunday now and you could certainly join in and ask me any questions you may have. As we can see the car is now back to a continuous 32 amps and I can sleep well at night knowing I’m not going to have an overheated plug. Until the next video, stay safe, and I’ll see you on the next one.
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The thing is a lot (if not most) electricians are still using off the shelf 14-50 receptacles unless you tell them otherwise. The owner of one outfit even told me they've had no issues with the non-industrials.
I appreciate this video. I was going to go for the $10 for quite some time but after seeing this, again, I am greatly appreciative!
I'm a new EV owner and watched a few of these videos now. It's very likely in the majority of the melted outlet cases, the outlet was not installed correctly. For example, the exposed copper was not cut to correct length or the screws were not properly torqued. Note in this video, is he even torqueing the terminal screws to spec? They need to be tighter than you might guess. Note heat from electricity is generated by resistance. This is likely either incorrect wire diameter or poor connection to the receptacle, but in some cases, perhaps within the receptacle, as well.
Sooooooo trueeeee
Agree 100% from an electrical engineer👋
The electrician who put in the Leviton outlet in my parents garage said he’s done hundreds of them and has never gotten a complaint from a customer. As long as they’re properly connected and the owner isn’t continuously removing and connecting the 14-50 plug, there shouldn’t be any issues.
After 3 years with no issues I started getting the same warning message and my amperage was substantially reduced. I did not know about the Industrial Grade Nema 14/50 so I put one of those "Vornado" fans on the ground and faced it up at my plug and always turned it on when charging. That was a temporary solution that worked well, but I would not want to "bet my life" on it always working. Thanks to your video I will be swapping out the $10 Nema 14/50 I installed 3 years ago.
Thanks for your comment!
Hard wire the charger and be done with outlets. There is another video on this. You can also change out the outlet every three years and be safe also put a whole house surge protector on your panel I done that and never had anymore issues in the lightning capital of the USA which is Florida. 73
@@ronb6182
While hard-wiring it solves this problem, it also makes your setup less flexible. For example, you might have one of those cheaper EVSE plugs and might one day decide you want to upgrade to one of the many charging stations out there. You could manually uninstall the unit, but unplugging it is obviously way simpler.
@@dontbanmebrodontbanme5403 I don't plan on paying three times the amount to drive my car. I like 5 minute fill ups over two hours to charge a car. My choice is to stay with gas or get a hybrid and not have to spend hours behind a charging station. We haven't found a solution to our lack of electricity and we want to add charging cars to the equation. Someone's elevator doesn't go to the top level. 73
Great Video. I have installed a few hundred 14-50’s and lost many bids to my lower priced competitors due to my insistence on using Hubble. I have also received as many jobs to replace burnt receptacles.
Lol! Good story...
Seen any melted/burnt 14-30’s? Or is that a bit less risky since it’s lower current?
YOU have still overlooked a critical issue. The 50amp double pole breaker in your distribution panel can also overheat and even catch on fire. The solution is to follow the 50 amp breaker instructions precisely. And that means the copper conductors must be inserted then the terminal compressed over them with a good quality torque wrench.
Under-torqued and over-torqued terminal can both result in a fire….😮
I am an Electrician and have installed so many of those NEMA 14-50 outlets. A few times I had heat issue with exactly Hubbell receptacles. So I can not say they are better! They feel more solid ,but still have problems with them.
Thanks for the info! I have had not one error message on my tesla since installing this.
Interesting thing for you as a electrician is Tesla's recommended 14-50 brand list has Hubbell, Bryant (same as Hubbell) and Cooper (Eaton).
Are there any known products/brands of NEMA 14-30, or 14-50 outlets that are built specifically for use with electric vehicle charging? Any that are advertised specifically to handle long on phase of duty cycle with overnight BEV recharging?
@@aaronbounds1336 Hubbell brand is supposed to be good with that ,but how I said up in comments I have seen them to go bad as well. Not a guarantee it will work forever without issues. If you are buying one make sure it is at least commercial/industrial grade ,they "supposed" to be heavy duty .
I have an OG Tesla wall charger at home I bought along with my original 2013 MS. I also have a vacation place where I had a NEMA 14-50 installed. The 2013 would charge at 40 AMPS using either the original mobile connector OR the Tesla wall charger. Fast forward to 2020 when I replaced my 2013 with a 2020 MS-LR. Now, the maximum with the new design mobile connector is 32 AMPS. However, I had installed the Tesla wall charger on a 60 AMP circuit so I can charge at 48 AMPS from that (after adjusting some DIP switches on the wall charger). I don't know the brand of the 14-50 but it was expensive and professionally installed. I never had any error messages while using it to charge either Model S.
Thank you for bring up this safety issues.
long before home depot, lowes & menards appeared we, purchased electrical supplys from supply houses such as graybay, beckers, cosolidated, which supply electrical contractors. these supply houses have a variety of vendors including hubbell, paulding, woodhead, & leviton amongst others. the big box stores mentioned carry only items that sell a lot. electric supply houses sell what electricians need, not just fast-selling items. try them.
OMG!
I bought the Hubble 5 days ago under $100, now it's OVER $100.
good stuff, also use some electrical anti corrosion compound on the wires when you put them in. this is a good example of why a properly installed wall connector is a great idea. permanent connections that can handle the high power continuous use.
Carl, you are so right. Coming from the boating world, we know high amperage connections require prevention, maintenance, and exercise. I see a lot of comments about EV receptacles getting hot etc., but I think some people overlook the fact the receptacle is usually in the garage which is not normally climate-controlled making it susceptible to corrosion and failure.
@@CW-qt1qv yes, it is amazing how all high use outlets will fail from corrosion, it sneaks up fast. and once they start generating heat they go down hill exponentially. Also, you know Tesla replaces the connectors at superchargers every 2000 charges....
@@Wingman77tws Good to know about replacing connectors! Thanks.
I have been using the same NEMA 14-30R receptacle since 2017, no problems. It does get pretty warm though. Considering bypassing the outlet all together and getting a hardwired Tesla wall connector so I can bypass all of the problems also. Lots of videos out there with burned electrical components.
I actually haven’t been able to find any burned out 14-30’s. I’m wondering if it’s just way less of a melt/fire risk due to running at 24 amps instead of 40.
This is my exact problem. I will look in to it .thanks for the video
Good information! I put in the Tesla wall charger on 60 amp breakers and #4 wire. I would not have thought a cheap plug would be a problem- THANKS!
Glad it helped!
I know you already replaced the receptacle, but consider charging every night and lowering your charge rate. You will lose a little less energy to heat, and you will extend the health of your battery and all the charging system.
This is not true. L2 chargers don’t use enough amps to impact the battery at all.
@@reemaszero interesting that you respond to a 10 month old comment. In any case - you don't have any evidence to provide, so I'll not bother entertaining a response without data.
@@MBergyman I was just browsing UA-cam videos and this came up. No need to be so defensive. I work in this field and have some familiarity. No one is pressuring you into believing me - a lot of data has been updated in the last 10 months around battery charging capabilities. A quick google search might help.
@@reemaszero You came on here to defend what you believe to be truth, but with zero links to any studies. Batteries don't like heat, some like it less than others, clearly - that is a fact. All charging inputs some amount of heat, another fact. Less heat will be less impactful on the battery health, this is a fact. Therefore, the rule of thumb for maximizing battery health is to use the charge rate that inputs the least amount of heat into the process and still charges at the rate you need it to to have enough charge the next time you need it. It is not rocket science, just common sense.
Maximizing battery health may not matter to you after some certain point - maybe you are ok with the battery only lasting 10 years, but that is not germane to the talking points I brought up in my original post.
As for being defensive, I use UA-cam comments as a place to practice defending my own statements with good reasoning, so I'll politely decline your suggestion. I would also suggest you not make rebuttals without sufficient logic, it is a waste of your time and mine. Take care.
@@MBergyman lol
Anything over 3 hours is considered a continuously operating circuit by the electrical code. Which changes the amperage calculations of the circuit. That's why Tesla recommends industrial grade outlets.
Any resistance with high current will result in heat. The terminals on our main breaker were a bit loose and we almost had a fire. Good advice here. Also to note you don't have to purchase seperate Teala adapters to fit your dryer and stove receptacles. You can remove the neutral lug as it isn't used. The plug will then fit either socket. Just make sure to not exceed 24A
Just so you know dude, I’m referencing this video on many Tesla groups. So you might be getting some traffic that I’m sending your way.. Nice video, and you deserve the traffic!
Thank you !
Thanks again! I just replaced my 14-50 outlet per your recommendation and problem solved.
You’re welcome!
@@EMtesla1 I also shared your UA-cam on CFTESLA CF Tesla Experiences on Facebook. I now feel I should of checked with you to see if this was ok. If this is a problem let me know and I will remove it. Thanks again for all your help.
No problem! Thanks
The leviton is UL certified and is 100% safe for ev charging when properly installed.
I’m sure it is… just not industrial grade that Tesla wants us to use. Still no problems since switching my outlet. Thanks for commenting!
How do you know it's not the plug that is the problem? My tesla plug got to 140 F and when I cut it off and replaced with a clam-shell, wired yellow plug with a handle on it from Home Depot it reduced the temp to about 95 F. Used an infrared thermometer. It's possible the industrial receptacle just transfers heat better back into the wire. I don't know how a "cheap" Leviton or similar 14-50r can fail while and "industrial" 14-50r will work correctly. Both comply with the 14-50r specification. I'm not buying the hype until I see an independent study.
Most outlets are not made to have something plugged in and out every day like an electric car. If you don't go with a Tesla connector at least buy a separate mobile connector for home and travel.
I have installed dozens of the least expensive nema 14-50 outlets . I tell my customers not to plug and unplug the evse leave it plugged in but if they have to unplug it I will have to install the heavy duty model! Even if you plug and unplug the heavy duty model eventually it will fail too! Also make sure the electrical box you're using is extra deep to help dissipate any heat that may occur!
Awesome video!! Very helpful
It looks easy enough to change the outlet myself, so I might go ahead and do that.
Did u install it urself?
@@faisq4 I had an electrician do the wiring and the outlet installation. I think that I was referring to upgrading the outlet to the heavy duty one myself. Mine never gets warm and I don’t feel the need to upgrade it. I must have something better than the $10 one?
@@mitchellbarnow1709 Could be, since my car has started throwing this error and i had my electrician inspected my outlet (who actually installed it) but electrician said that everything is good and blamed to my tesla’s charger lol. And now i’ve got new charger and another tesla and error continues. Now I’m thinking to go with this outlet replacement option (finger crossed)
@@faisq4 I think that Tesla has created a software problem, because I too have had occasional errors and I've had to unplug my mobile connector from the wall outlet a few times myself. I bet that Tesla is aware of the problems.
Good info. It’s seldom a good idea in just about any aspect of life to go cheap. Ya get what ya pay for (and in this case, as in so many other cases, you ended up paying more than you had to as well).
One question: Is there some compelling reason why you charge once a week?
I plug our EVs in every night. Tesla recommends this. And why not? Every morning we wake to our cars fully charged (to the limit we set). That way, if I had some unexpected reason come up that I had to hit the road, I’m ready.
Just curious… thanks!
Thank you... and yea Tesla does recommend plugging in every-night. I really don't have a reason for this haha. I'm so close to work, maybe 10 mins away, i hardly use any battery.
Eaton/Cooper is actually on Tesla's recommended list.
You have a 50A circuit breaker. If you ran AWG 6 wires for your 14-50 outlet, you should be able to charge at the speed of 40A.
Not with the mobile connector… this is limited to 32amps
@@EMtesla1 Oh! That I didn't know. Thanks.
If I was looking at a properly wired box with bad plug I wouild get tesla wall connector or another brand of hard wired level 2 EV charger and just run the J1772 adapter. Someoen else you know or could sell a property to may have another brand of EV.
Hardwired actually removes two plug connections from the system since the mobile charger has a plug on it too.
That being said..The kit of all the available nema plug types is something I have coming for the model 3. Road trips to friends or family on a vacation are when its handy. You'll have eight plug options and end up with two plug types that charge at about 20mph and two plug types that charge around 30 mph.
If you dont want the kit, the nema 6-50 plug for the mobile tesla charger is also good to have. A lot of home welder installs and existing witing for other level 2 chargers have this plug.
If I had no existing 220v plug and had a good sized main breaker on a garage or shop. Then I would install 100amp breaker, there are some level 2 chargers that are 2x the speed of the gen 3 wall connector.
Levington makes a 2.45 hole cover that works for a 1/3 the cost of the Hubble. My cheap outlet was starting to melt charging my model 3 made the switch.
Great points. There are a lot of vids here that show using the cheaper outlets for EVs. Installing EV chargers is all I do and am getting to the point of doing all hardwire installations. My last Hubbell cost me $164. It also needs the extra neutral wire and in many places a gfci breaker. On an exterior install, I have yet to find an enclosure that will accept the commercial grade outlets.
You mean due to the fact that the circumference of the Hubbell receptacle is larger than the standard 14-50?
Side Note: The electrical companies I've gotten quotes from only use off the shelf 14-50 but said I could supply my own. Mind you these are two very large outfits in this city with hundreds of reviews.
@@rkgsd There is a problem with all the players getting on the same page with this new industry. Box store off the shelf are $15 receptacles that are fine for dryers and ranges that have intermittent loads. Off the shelf at a supply house could be a $50+ commercial grade. If a plug-in is necessary, a commercial grade is a must. Yes, the black round part is larger, 2.5 inches across instead of 2 inches across. By far, the best installation is to hardwire and avoid the receptacle altogether.
Honestly it’s UL Rated and only draws 32 amps and if you install a 14-50 Nema rated outlet and install GFCI breaker you should be ok
Thanks for the UA-cam. After 2 1/2 years without a problem I started to get the same message on my Tesla. It seems there are others that are experiencing the same problem after not having any problems. I think it maybe doing this as a safety issue that Tesla became aware of and in one of the recent upgrades on the software put this in place. There seems to be a bunch of these problems showing up on some of the Tesla Facebook sights. I have ordered the recommended receptacle you suggested from Amazon and hope it fixes the problem. I have shared your UA-cam with others. Thanks again for your help! Will let you know how I make out.
Thank you! Glad it helped!
Did it help?
Your wire size is super important....what you are showing looks like 10 Guage, even if it's 8 it might not be enough depending on run length to the panel.
It’s actually 6 gauge
Good info. Thx Evan
Use Bryant outlets. Same industrial quality 1/3 price of Hubbel. (Bryant apparently is sister company of Hubbel)
If a 50amp outlet can't handle 40amps continuously then it should be recalled.
Not even pulling 40. The 14-50 adapter maxes out at 32.
When you test from a hot lead to the ground do you have to wiggle around the ground lead a bit to get a 120V reading or do you just slide in the ground lead and it reads 120V without much issue? If so wonder if this is just the design of the Hubbell.
You typically have to move the leads around to find a good connection/reading
Probably not so much the plug as the wire size going to the plug. Must be 6 gauge or larger. Anything less will get hot.
Any mention of the amount of torque for the receptacle? "Tight" may be too tight or not tight enough. Spending on the better receptacle makes sense - especially when you've spent $60-100k on an EV.
Torque is specified in the installation instructions.
Evan: The timeliness of your video is perfect. I didn’t know the difference between an industrial grade Nema 1450 outlet. I will be ordering the Hubble and wall plate before the electrician gets here in my new home we purchased.
Evan, could you send me the information of your white plastic Tesla plug hanger that is wall-mounted on your garage wall. I’ve never seen anything like this and this is also exactly what I need because I will be charging just as you are with the cord provided by Tesla. I have a used model 3 LR/RWD. THANKS ! ! !
JVV - Long time subscriber to your channel.
Thank you! Yea I got that charging cable holder on etsy 👉🏼tidd.ly/3ujFltm
When I began prepping for my Model 3 delivery, I found a reference from Tesla recommending the Hubbel. They no longer do this, but this video from HandyDadTV was very helpful.
ua-cam.com/video/xRcDUZgeuGs/v-deo.html
@@andyburns5197 Thanks so much Andy. That’s great to know. Take care
14-50 receptacle can handle 50 amps. 32 amps will be fine with a quality spec grade receptacle and proper wiring.
Well apparently not as you saw on my tesla screen. Every since I put in this new receptacle I never got the error again.
Most plugs are rated for at least 5-0 amps. Cheap or not. The issue was either bad connections or the wrong wire for the job.
My connections from the old plug were very secure.. I actually had a hard time removing them. Also the wire is copper 6 gauge and with this new outlet I have yet to see any error on my Tesla screen.
Your old outlet looks like the pins inside are aluminum, while mine are clearly copper. I am sure that mine didn’t come from a home center and it looks more like your heavy duty one, but it’s clearly the size of the smaller one.
After you have changed to Hubble , don’t you have any problems at all? Thanks for your helpful video.
No problems since installing this new outlet. Thank you
can the Hubbell receives ALUM wire? Our existing wire only comes with ALUM instead of Copper..
I was wishing for a plug temperature before and after! Even just a hand on it opinion...
While Hubble is the best, a UL listed Pass and Seymour properly installed is every bit as good. Installation requires knowledge and experience ... there's a saying in this industry wiring is not a hobby!
Plugs and sockets were never designed to carry high current loads continually. For such situations permanent attachments are recommended.
The advent of the “charge at home” electric car has brought a new challenge.
No one ever thought you would run an electric welder at a 50 kilowatt motel in your garage all night……………it’s another case of unintended consequences. A small fan built into the socket would help!!!!
Stavros
If you are not unplugging and plugging in repeatedly it doesn't matter
Well it did for me, I never consistency plugged and unplugged my charger from the outlet. It stayed plugged in.
Luckily, I rarely charge at 32 amps because I charge as slowly as I can, keeping me out of the peak electrical rates. Mine is the cheap one, unfortunately! If I had known, I would’ve had the electrician install the better one, even though he would’ve fought me on it and charged me more labor for spite.
Sparky here. Why so quick to judge?
Would've installed for same price. You just order the plug, no problem.
I was going to buy a 15$ HD one today Jesus!!.!!
I want to know the monthly cost of owning it?
Did insurance increase or decrease ?
I made a video on this… please see it under my channel. Thank you!
Ensure its a NEMA 6-50 if the outlet will be dedicated to EV charging.
thanks I have some situation , my outlet is 20 .
Is the quality of receptacles not gonna help if you have a cheap aluminum bus bar panel. Rip that thing out and put a Cutler hammer CH cock copper bus bar in or go commercial bolt and breaker series
I had the same problem and changed out both the outlet and wire. Tesla recommends 6 gauge wire where most 220v outlets are 3 gauge.
Are you saying you took out the 3 gauge wire and replaced it with 6 gauge? Why?
@@jamesrempel8522 😂
@@jamesrempel8522 Initial installation was for a typical electric dryer; revision was for M3 charger that kept overheating. See other reply for specs.
Doesn’t matter if it’s for a dryer or a Tesla …they all pull electricity…if the wire is configured for 240v 50amp it’ll handle 50amp…cheap outlet will skimp out on think connector between the house wires and the car charger and cause heating for long period of time and the plastic they use probably can’t handle that much heat for that long either
3 a.w.g. conductor will barely fit the lugs of a 14-50 receptical. 6 or 4 ga. should suffice. god help the electrical grid if ev's take off !
What size electric box do you use to mount this plug? Anyway to surface mount it instead of flush with the dry wall?
5s metal box. With brackets or without depending on your style of installation. Metal is way better than plastic in stopping a fire, in case there’s ever one. Surprise this guy is talking about safety while using a plastic box 🙄 because plastic is cheaper. Oh the irony
The Leviton (Home Depot) has half-height lugs which tend to run hot. Eaton/Cooper should do better.
This one was an Eaton Brand.. I guess just not a copper one.
The charging that comes with the Tesla., Do I need to buy a adaptor to make it fit the 1450 outlet? From Tesla, changes the three prong to the nema 1450 correct?
Yes, you need the gen 2 Nema 14-50 adapter.
$10 is all you need
NEMA 14-50 is for an oven or RV. The correct outlet for dedicated EV charging is NEMA 6-50.
A nema 6-50 will work for an EV but the preferred outlet is actually a nema 14-50. This is from the Tesla website.
@@EMtesla1
A NEMA 14-50 oven outlet can be made to work for EV charging if a special adapter is used to disable the superfluous neutral wire, but a NEMA 6-50 EXACTLY MATCHES EV charging electrical requirements wire-for-wire.
@@RogerWilsonTodd so tesla is wrong?
@@k3mikal If you want a dedicated EV charging outlet for a Tesla UMC or Wall Connector, NEMA 6-50 PRECISELY matches the electrical requirements and will NOT need an adapter that knocks out superfluous conductors like those present in an oven or RV outlet.
@@taekwoncrawfish9418 The Nema 6-50 does not have a nuteral. The Nuteral is not reqiured for EV charging. But the 14-50 is more popular anyways. They both deliver the same amperage but you won't be able to use a 6-50 for something like a range unless you use a 14-50.
I would say the terminals weren’t tight enough. Grainger….. McMastercarr…. Amazon is usually way more than a industrial supply even high quality stuff will burn up
I mean I had a very hard time loosening the screws. The wires were in there very tight.
@@EMtesla1 what type and gauge wire? If it burns up a cheap plug you should hard wire with a disconnect switch
6 gauge wire
Buy the cheap one…
Then you can afford a really nice fire extinguisher
Would someone pls recommend for "outdoor" outlet with the box for waterproofing? thanks
I have the Tesla recommended Cooper/Eaton 5754N and keep getting this warning and lowering of available current. I never remove the cord from the wall, so no insertion cycle issues there. The connections in the back are tight, too. I’m not sure going to the Hubbell with make the difference - can anyone comment on this?
Thanks for sharing. How to identify the industrial grade n non-industrial grade receptacle?
typically you can tell by the weight difference and the torx screw hole to tighten down the wires
Question, Were you plugging and unplugging every time or just plug in and stays? I’m thinking you might have been unplugging it.
No the tesla cord is always plugged in. Thank you for commenting !
Just curious….how warm/hot was your cable getting. If I charge mine at 32A it gets to about 120 degrees. I’ve reduced to 26A and the temp is now 110. I shouldn’t have to reduce the rate of charge.
Great questions! While I do no have an exact number on this.. I did charge during the day once to feel how hot this really got and I have to say it was very warm. This Hubbell Brand is rated for up to 194 degrees F.
@@EMtesla1 I bought a laser temperature gun to measure the temp. Got it, yup, on Amazon. That’s the way I know how hot mine connector got.
you should think about getting thicker cables. All the heat are losses. Energy that isn't going your car, but in the air like a heater for your garage. It should not get warm at all. At least not that you can feel it just by touching it.
If the plug or the outlet gets hot, there might be a bad connection and you resistance in the flow of the electricity. This is causing heat. You need to check on that as well. There should not be any obvious heat coming from your cable or installation. If you have a squeezed cable anywhere in your installation and the cable gets hot, it might be there even hotter and the root cause of a wire. Please be careful...
Why is your grounding wire so small? Shouldn't it be the same or bigger as the hot and neutral? I would like my ground wire to carry the short current and trip the breaker not vaporize...
This is standard on the southwire brand 6/3 Romex wire.
On larger amp circuits, electrical code allows some downsizing of the ground wire.
Get an electrician to install it. It isn't a DIY activity.
this doesn’t make sense why would you need 32 amps to charge your car every night. Like do you drive 150 miles a day.
Metal outlet box is better than cheap plastic one you have too.
Very true! Please make sure to hit the dislike button for me if you haven’t already. All the best ! Evan
Metal outlet boxes forbidden for installation in electric installations here in Germany. For obvious reasons.
@@hanssolo5585
What obvious?
In industrial settings here we have metal boxes going to metal conduit, to metal breaker boxes.
It's safer that way.
I thought the only difference was that the expensive one was made for more insertions. If you dont unplug your charger from the wall it should be ok.
Fair point; however I rarely unplugged my mobile charger from the wall, yet over time; the heat must have overtaken the cheap outlet.
The heavy duty one has nice thick solid copper connections, while the cheap one looked like copper plated aluminum. Zoom in on his picture of the two receptacles side by side.
@@mitchellbarnow1709 Regardless of the connections, they're both rated for the appropriate number of amps. There shouldn't be an issue with them. Every tract home in the United States has a cheap 220 plug on their dryer and oven because the plug/unplug cycles are low. Its more likely that the wiring was loose or he simply had a faulty unit. There's no legitimate reason why a "cheap" plug shouldn't work. All of these outlets are tested to spec by UL.
Those screws holding the wires on that Eaton outlet were very tight. I had difficulty loosening them. There’s no way the wires were loose.
@@EMtesla1 Then you had z bad outlet. Every electrical component is independently tested to by UL to make sure it can continuously support 80% of its rated max.
Where did you get the Hubbell outlet and faceplate?
Amazon links are in the description of this video
@@EMtesla1 try an electrical supply house !
Have you had any more issues or over heat messages since the install of the hubble plug??? Thanks
No sir!
I'm going to try the 220v power supply box that plugs into two separate 120v's...is there an industrial 120v plug too?
Here's one that I found... amzn.to/3znxDk3. Also please be sure each 120V receptacle are on separate breakers.
A very nice home near me just burned to the ground. The fire began in the garage. Improperly installed or cheap NEMA 14-50 outlet ? Don't be penny wise and dollar foolish. Have the work done by a licensed electrician and insist on the commercial grade outlet .
Cheaper isn’t meaning good!!!
Still working well for you?
yes! not one issue with this new industrial grade outlet.
Is it called gen 2 nema adaptors for Tesla?
yes, gen 2
Use copper wire. Much more important
Yes thats what I use... thank you!
How do you spot the diff between the two ..?
One is heavier than the other, also the Face of the 14-50 plug is slightly bigger.
Torque the terminals to the specification. It is probably twice of torque what you did.
Very true! I have still have no error on my tesla screen since switching the outlets!
You all spent thousands on your Tesla and go for the chepo deluxe outlet...heller..😂😂😂
It looks like you did not have enough wire exposed from the insulator to make a proper connection to the back of the nema plug.
Hmm idk why it seems that way… I have plenty of wire exposed to the nema plug
Another Hubble brand…I wonder if this is a paid sponsor…
No sir… I said in my video I paid for this outlet myself.
Total nonsense…the $10.00 receptacle will work just fine. Ask electrical contractors, and you’ll find the majority will use Leviton, Eagle, Pass & Seymour..each approximately $10.00. They are all constructed to the same UL standard, I believe it’s UL498. Hubbell makes great products but sometimes the additional cost is not justified.
Alrighty then, thank you for your opinion.
The Hubble unit has compression type clamping so the screw tightens two opposing plates to compress on the wire. With the competition, the screw bears up against the wire directly, as the screw rotates it does damage to the wire to some degree. With Hubbell, you tighten your connection with an Allen wrench allowing you to use a torque wrench to tighten the screw to the exact specified force. Hubbell is made in the United States, the competition is made in Mexico or China.
While right, it's hard to accept advice from someone who only charges their Tesla once a week, which is definitely not what Tesla recommends. :-P
I only drive 14 miles a day … I just don’t see the logic to charge every night
@@EMtesla1 It's actually the same logic that lead you to get an industrial 14-50 outlet - Tesla directly says to do it in their manual. As long as you're staying above 20% and below 90%, I suppose it's fine - but this video was about what Tesla recommends, so thought I would mention.
Right I’m well aware with Tesla recommends I just don’t find the need to plug in every single night. Thanks for commenting though!
@@EMtesla1 when the car is plugged in the car conditions the temperature of the battery to keep it at optimal health long term. This will actually improve longevity of the battery. This could be an issue if your garage gets hot and cold. Temp extremes are not good when storing lithium batteries.
you can film like 100 of those videos, - but many of tesla owners still will go cheap and install everything as junky as possible
Nah. If anyone can afford 50-100k car, I doubt they care about $100 parts. It's a rounding error.
@@Atemoya26 they DO care, Thomas. You will be surprised, - but many of Tesla owners "saving" and using mobile charger at home instead of wall charger :)
@@taekwoncrawfish9418 because it can be a fire hazard that might cause more expensive repair later on. It's why people pay extra for peace of mind for extra auto and life insurance. Basic insurance works too.
@@taekwoncrawfish9418 why don't you use powerbank to recharge your tesla? :)
@@taekwoncrawfish9418 I bet you have one. cause you are responding to youtube comments right away, - and it means that you are always online :) and to support yourself online, - you need powerbank :)
Very good video that shows the dangers coming along with charging at a regular home outlet.
Just one thing: The voice is awful to listen to. Ruins the whole video and the work put into it.
The narration is way too fast in speed and without pronunciation.
For foreigners especially very hard to listen too.
When there is speech, there should be some little pausing in between to let the information settle in your brain...
Use the English subtitles please… no need to hate on my voice…wow… nobody else complaining.
@@EMtesla1 Thats not hate. That is just help to make it more perfect. Just sounded almost like an old computer voice. When I listened to the other videos, there it was better and i realized it is not microsoft text to speech. Do not take it personal, personal please. That was never my intention. Video making and content is excellent, but sound could be a little better. It is not the pitch of your voice, it is the speed and the almost missing pronunciation. Other videos of yours are better...
Not sure.. not one other person has said my voice sounds a like a computer
He sounds fine. If you need him to talk slower so you can comprehend, turn down playback speed.
@@EMtesla1 your English is fine. Thank you for informational video. I'm in middle of getting an estimate for an electrician to install. Anything I should request from them other than industrial NEMA 14-50?