Your nuts that little cut will let water pour in plus rust where was cut and so much water in it seeing it’s bottom of valley never trust caulking a roof should be done not to leak without it caulking is backup u take to much chance flooding houses
Beautiful job on that roof it really looks Nice! Thanks for the shoe demo this is exactly what I need, even with climbing ropes & a harness my roof is not Safe.
I do not like seeing the metal screwed to foam? I have a feeling that its going to compress/move and the screw will become loose and leak. Is this normal to do? You can see how far down the screw is denting the steel to get tight.
Beware of Dew! I have not been able to get on Metal in the Mornings until around 11 am after the Sun Dries up all the Dew. And it gets vary dangerous right at Dark as the in some cases the Dew starts forming on the Roof without notice as soon as the Sun is over the Horizon setting.
The Valley never leaked, nor will it I always hit the slit I make with Silicone. I have returned to this. Job two years later. No leaks, no complaints.
@@michaelsiemer3042 lol silicone only good for five years you should do it the proper way and two piece it or say good bye to the manufactures warranty to anybody reading this look up how long silicone good for and how much metal expands and shrinks when exposed to the elements your a disgrace to all metal roofers go back to school
@@michaelsiemer3042 You will notice words are commonly used like probably, general rule and approximately, this is because with these discussions nothing falls off the edge of a cliff, it is a gradual thing that is happening as the silicone degrades and someone needs to “make a call”. This general rule is not the same for every customer or application, indeed the silicone may still work well down to as far as 10% of its original properties but realistically they would want that percentage to be a bit higher. Consideration needs to be given to the various stages within the life of the silicone. - Used brand new = standard life in service (whatever that is for the application and conditions) - Been on the shelf for 10 years = standard life in service, minus some - Been on the shelf for 20 years = standard life in service, minus some more How do Silicone Engineering quantify the “minus some” and the “minus some more” because the rubber has aged. There is another rule of thumb that is generally accepted in regard to performing ageing testing to try to predict the life of an elastomer. An increase in temperature of 10°C will effectively halve the life in service. Therefore, if a seal operating at 50°C would last 6 years in service, then an increase of service temperature to 60°C would halve the life in service to 3 years. and believe most silicone sits in warehouse for years you should really learn your trade I'm 26 and know that not a acceptable way to do any valley a good roofer doesn't rely on calk to do his job properly they probably wont call you when it does leak they will hire a professional
@@aurorasplawn5024 What do you put you flash boots on with? Silicone,. Really better take heed to your own little speech. Do you know what I am talking about? You know all those plumbing pipes sticking up through the roof. 1 1/2" 2" 3" You have to cut a large hole thought the metal roof,. Then you have to slip a roof boot over it. Then you have to glue the base of that boot with:. Silicone or something more advanced like what I get from my metal supplier. If you have ever used a boot on a metal roof you would have had to use something to glue it. Jesus considered a hypocrite as someone pointing a finger at someone else while they themselves where guilty of far worst things.
@@michaelsiemer3042 if you 2 piece your panel like your supposed to you don't need silicone lol and you don't have to put on those nasty screw down pipe boot and if you want to get technical pipe boot are only good for 10 to 15 years unless you use a metal one your just salty because I'm 26 and can produce way better quality lol and don't need to rely on silicone you produce a 15 to 20 year roof at best once they have to fix the valley were as mine will last 40 to 50 with those cheap menards panels nice boots though I'm sure they'll come in handy working at cosco
That's a good way to do a valley if you want it to leak. The end of your valley pan shouldn't end underneath a panel. You have to 2 piece it to do it correctly. Install the lower piece, then your valley pan, then your upper piece. You'll have problems out of that valley in the future.
It's also not a good idea to put screws through the valley pan. Install them an inch back from the edge of the pan. Penetrations in the valley pan will cause you problems down the road.
Also there’s no expansion foam or waterproofing tape in between the steel and valley flashing. Water can rush up in the ribs and soak and start to rot the underside.
I@@wretchedSTONER I've came up 3 inches on valley and screwed they metal thru valley zero issues 7 years no call backs. And sure good to chalk the. Bottom of the metal where it s metal on the valley pan pan
I must've fixed over a 100 of those valley's that are slit like that due to leakage. I two piece them in its not as pretty but I've never had to go back for any of my valley's. I find valley slits like that in a lot of commercial roofs blow and go then never comeback for repairs. But what a beautiful roof don't know about the foam either new to me lots of dimples and loose screws eventually not good for high winds or hail.
Its been many Years, still no leaks. I use Solar Seal to flash boots and in an occasional spot of concern. Its some of the best adhesive / sealant on the market. Our Metal supplier sells it in match color to our Metal Roof. The Fanfold is 1/4" hard styrofoam. The Mylar double Buble Rap that we use on all the Mountain House I Build actually has more give and dimple that the fanfold. The metal dimpling down is normal and is not a bad thing. As long as it is dimpling its not going to leak. If you screw it down and it doesn't dimple, you may have striped it. it may leak. I never leave one stripped screw on a roof. You have to back it out and find good wood or at least back it out and glue it before driving it back down. By code You have to have a vapor Barrier. The bubble rap is a legal vapor barrier. So we go with that most of the time. When I Place Metal over a shingle roof I use Fanfold as a leveler and to add an extra insulation factor. It actually does reflect all of the Suns heat off the Roof. It also compresses tight and there are no soft spots underneath..
What’s going to stop that valley from leaking way to much trust in caulking I have done roofing for 20yrs plus and would never put valley in like that plus u don’t lap under it’s always over so u can keep seams tight
i installed this Roof years ago. still no leaks, so much for the Gainsayers. The reason i Backed Lapped this piece is that there was a 3' diameter Stove exhaust Vent in the center of the roof. So to wisely pick and choose my battle; I started at that point Half Notching two sheets around it. I then ran half the roof the normal way with overlap. Then I installed the other half back lapping it by flipping it under which didn't slow me down much at all. I hear roofers, brag about not using Glue on a roof, But if they will admit it they all have to used Glue around every plumbing Vent Boot on a metal roof. JESUS is LORD,. I give Him all the Glory for these many Years He has Blessed my work. He deserves Our Praise and Our Obedience.
Good Question, The reason I Back Lapped this side is that there was a large Roof Boot I think for the Kitchen, It was about 30" in diameter so I decided before hand to start two sheets at that point, Half of the notch out of one sheet and half of the notch out of the other. I then continued across the roof one way with the normal lap and had to back-lap going the other way. You have to do the same thing sometimes going around a dormer with valley's on both sides if the roof continues across below the dormer. You have to back feed the second side up the valley. A Little tricky But GOD is Good, Commit Your Work to Him and He will Bless it and show You how. " Trust in the LORD with all Your Heart, and lean not on your own understanding, but in all Your ways acknowledge Him, and He shall direct your path."
It looks like your doing a clean job but you will have leak issues later on with the valley flashing and chimney. You should never rely on sealant to prevent leaking. A 5/16 wood zac screw would have been a better longer lasting screw.
Did a good job on the cut and everything but always put your screws on the highest point of the metals and should have screws 5in from the Fascia and 3ft apart from there
If you add cougar paw review or something like that to your title you'll probably get more clicks and views because I had no clue that's was the video till I kept watching. Awesome job on the roof
Them screws are too tight and should never be in the flats of the roof that's where the water is screw it on the ribs and that valley will leak but that's handyman issue I guess roofers know better
Nice boots. I would use the standing seam metall roof panels instead though rather than exposed screws relying on rubber washers to seal and not fail over time and elements
This one actually did have lightning rods grounded. They were already installed on the previous roof. But normally we do not install lightning rods on any of the metal roofs we do, and we have not had lightning strike any of them. I do know that if you connect a ground from the metal roof or ground rods to the ground you cause lightning to strike. I once was on a job in Florida where an Elderly Lady had told me the story of how her house had been struck by lightning twice and she Courageously had put it out using her neighbors garden hose. I walked around her house carefully examining what could have attacted the lightning. She had a crew come out and install lightning rods across the ridge of the roof, then they had the Copper ground come down the side of the house and it was all coiled up in a circle laying on the ground beside her house not connected to the Ground Rod. They were attracting the lightning but not grounding it out. The guys must have got paid and ran off. Or maybe they were potheads. In any event I brought her out and showed her why her house was being struck so often.
@@michaelsiemer3042 I do lightning protection here in south Texas for Bonded lightning protection and I must say ya the Florida guys do not follow codes sounds like but we always have to get on ridiculous pitches so I wanted to see if these cougar paws were an investment for my boss or not 🤔
@@derekmcmullin3816 You should still throw a rope over the roof on any steep roof. These really are not safe for anything more than an 8 pitch. But they do hold good on most new metal roofs. If there is mildew or moss starting to form on the metal, watch out! You will slide even with the magnetic boots. Also be ware of the Dew, If you work like I do right up to dark, the dew will start forming as soon as the Sun drops over the horizon, you will slide on the dew! No matter what pitch or what boots. These boots work best when it is hot and dry. Every so often I lift one foot up, balancing on the other as I wipe the bottom of the other foot on the pants leg of the other, just to wipe any film or dirt off as I am working. Hope this helps, GOD Bless,
@@DougAllen-x7q Yes, You will find every nail or screw in the yard when you do walk across it. I scrape them several times on the ladder while going up it to get any junk off. God Bless,
True! The Boots come with a hand held stronger magnet to sweep the bottem of your boots with periodically. In fact when you get to the top of the ladder you have to scrape your boots off or pull the magnet out of your nail apron and sweep it across the bottem of your boots removing all the nails and metal fragments you pick up just walking across the grass.
This is awesome insulation 100% of the heat huh hopefully it will still be there when a breeze blows the metal off because you didn’t lath it out and you screw it ALL wrong and if that’s a 6/12 pitch I can walk a 15/12 I have a awesome crew people like you are job security for people like me that actually know what we are doing
Breeze blows the roof off? I just tacked the one piece for a minute in the video then I came back and screwed it as it is supposed to be screwed with one screw on the side of each rib in rows every 2' apart from one other according to the Manufactured recommendation. Those Little 1x strips you are talking about are working out for ah? This house was built very strong with five ply 5/8 CDX not the cheep 7/16 OSB most builders use. And on the Fanfold idea. Be doing it for 20 yrs. It does take 100 percent of the heat off your house if you know how to install it correctly. You start it on the eve and use one piece with no joints all the way up to the ridge. You but the next piece tight to it nailing it down with button caps. The heat does not transfer through the 1/4" fan fold foam. The heat stays on top and flowing up and out the ridge. We also never use that little standard ridgcap most builders use. We always use at least a 20 1/2" to 24" ridge cap normally 12" both ways. Most metal roof companies will just sell you one that is only 8" both ways.
Jeffery, you have a lot of big talk, Do you Know the King Of Kings and LORD of LORDS? His name is JESUS. You should be humble before Him and He will exalt You in due season.
Yep I know him but he’s never told me about it being ok to screw people over the screws that you did put in will back out I’ve been doing this a long time people that do this have gotten me a lot of work over the years I have one to take off a strip out rite now so go ahead post all the videos you want for the 32 people that don’t know any better it’s job security for guys like me that do it correct oh and if you actually did screw it down tight as you should the insulation will compress and then the screws will be loose hence the screws will start backing out so I hope you have a blessed day sir
@@johnwright8300 the screws will not stay tight they back out I’ve been doing it every day for 25 plus years and I’ve changed several that customers were told yeh it’ll be fine and 5-10 years later I have to fix it thank all y’all for the work
They work Well, but Pray First to OUR Father in JESUS Name for protection. And don't walk on the Metal if it has Dew, or is Wet. And be careful not step on any Silicone, as it will leave a film on the surface of the Boot that will make you slide. After walking up the ladder and just before stepping onto the metal, you should scrape the bottom of your feet on the ladder to remove any screws or metal fragments you have picked up while walking on the ground. You should tilt each shoe sideways to see the bottom, and make sure it is free from objects before stepping onto the roof.
The cut at they’ve middle of the vid was perfect! Good job! I came for the cougar paws, but saw plenty of quality roofing…
Your nuts that little cut will let water pour in plus rust where was cut and so much water in it seeing it’s bottom of valley never trust caulking a roof should be done not to leak without it caulking is backup u take to much chance flooding houses
Beautiful job on that roof it really looks Nice! Thanks for the shoe demo this is exactly what I need, even with climbing ropes & a harness my roof is not Safe.
I do not like seeing the metal screwed to foam? I have a feeling that its going to compress/move and the screw will become loose and leak. Is this normal to do? You can see how far down the screw is denting the steel to get tight.
Beware of Dew! I have not been able to get on Metal in the Mornings until around 11 am after the Sun Dries up all the Dew. And it gets vary dangerous right at Dark as the in some cases the Dew starts forming on the Roof without notice as soon as the Sun is over the Horizon setting.
I saw a guy fall off a metal roof cus of dew its so fast
shoes are nice but how long did it take before that valley leaked
The Valley never leaked, nor will it I always hit the slit I make with Silicone. I have returned to this. Job two years later. No leaks, no complaints.
@@michaelsiemer3042 lol silicone only good for five years you should do it the proper way and two piece it or say good bye to the manufactures warranty to anybody reading this look up how long silicone good for and how much metal expands and shrinks when exposed to the elements your a disgrace to all metal roofers go back to school
@@michaelsiemer3042 You will notice words are commonly used like probably, general rule and approximately, this is because with these discussions nothing falls off the edge of a cliff, it is a gradual thing that is happening as the silicone degrades and someone needs to “make a call”. This general rule is not the same for every customer or application, indeed the silicone may still work well down to as far as 10% of its original properties but realistically they would want that percentage to be a bit higher. Consideration needs to be given to the various stages within the life of the silicone.
- Used brand new = standard life in service (whatever that is for the application and conditions)
- Been on the shelf for 10 years = standard life in service, minus some
- Been on the shelf for 20 years = standard life in service, minus some more
How do Silicone Engineering quantify the “minus some” and the “minus some more” because the rubber has aged. There is another rule of thumb that is generally accepted in regard to performing ageing testing to try to predict the life of an elastomer. An increase in temperature of 10°C will effectively halve the life in service. Therefore, if a seal operating at 50°C would last 6 years in service, then an increase of service temperature to 60°C would halve the life in service to 3 years. and believe most silicone sits in warehouse for years you should really learn your trade I'm 26 and know that not a acceptable way to do any valley a good roofer doesn't rely on calk to do his job properly they probably wont call you when it does leak they will hire a professional
@@aurorasplawn5024
What do you put you flash boots on with?
Silicone,. Really better take heed to your own little speech. Do you know what I am talking about?
You know all those plumbing pipes sticking up through the roof. 1 1/2" 2" 3"
You have to cut a large hole thought the metal roof,. Then you have to slip a roof boot over it. Then you have to glue the base of that boot with:. Silicone or something more advanced like what I get from my metal supplier. If you have ever used a boot on a metal roof you would have had to use something to glue it.
Jesus considered a hypocrite as someone pointing a finger at someone else while they themselves where guilty of far worst things.
@@michaelsiemer3042 if you 2 piece your panel like your supposed to you don't need silicone lol and you don't have to put on those nasty screw down pipe boot and if you want to get technical pipe boot are only good for 10 to 15 years unless you use a metal one your just salty because I'm 26 and can produce way better quality lol and don't need to rely on silicone you produce a 15 to 20 year roof at best once they have to fix the valley were as mine will last 40 to 50 with those cheap menards panels nice boots though I'm sure they'll come in handy working at cosco
I got to get on my metal roof fix my gutter. Definitely get a pair of these. Thanks for the video!
That's a good way to do a valley if you want it to leak. The end of your valley pan shouldn't end underneath a panel. You have to 2 piece it to do it correctly. Install the lower piece, then your valley pan, then your upper piece. You'll have problems out of that valley in the future.
It's also not a good idea to put screws through the valley pan. Install them an inch back from the edge of the pan. Penetrations in the valley pan will cause you problems down the road.
Exactly. It's called a water lap.
Also there’s no expansion foam or waterproofing tape in between the steel and valley flashing. Water can rush up in the ribs and soak and start to rot the underside.
I@@wretchedSTONER I've came up 3 inches on valley and screwed they metal thru valley zero issues 7 years no call backs. And sure good to chalk the. Bottom of the metal where it s metal on the valley pan pan
@@mattbeveridge9248If you want to keep installing valley metal incorrectly that's on you. I'll continue doing it the correct way.
So why are u running the new piece under the existing piece seems your laying it backwards
That is is CLEAN job!
I must've fixed over a 100 of those valley's that are slit like that due to leakage. I two piece them in its not as pretty but I've never had to go back for any of my valley's. I find valley slits like that in a lot of commercial roofs blow and go then never comeback for repairs. But what a beautiful roof don't know about the foam either new to me lots of dimples and loose screws eventually not good for high winds or hail.
Its been many Years, still no leaks.
I use Solar Seal to flash boots and in an occasional spot of concern. Its some of the best adhesive / sealant on the market.
Our Metal supplier sells it in match color to our Metal Roof.
The Fanfold is 1/4" hard styrofoam.
The Mylar double Buble Rap that we use on all the Mountain House I Build actually has more give and dimple that the fanfold.
The metal dimpling down is normal and is not a bad thing. As long as it is dimpling its
not going to leak. If you screw it down and it doesn't dimple, you may have striped it. it may leak. I never leave one stripped screw on a roof. You have to back it out and find good wood or at least back it out and glue it before driving it back down.
By code You have to have a vapor Barrier.
The bubble rap is a legal vapor barrier.
So we go with that most of the time.
When I Place Metal over a shingle roof I use Fanfold as a leveler and to add an extra insulation factor.
It actually does reflect all of the Suns heat off the Roof. It also compresses tight and there are no soft spots underneath..
Looks great. I need to get those Cougar Paws.
Lot of half-ass roofers in the comment section. Probably worked at HD screwing up outdoor buildings.
What’s going to stop that valley from leaking way to much trust in caulking I have done roofing for 20yrs plus and would never put valley in like that plus u don’t lap under it’s always over so u can keep seams tight
i installed this Roof years ago. still no leaks,
so much for the Gainsayers. The reason i Backed Lapped this piece is that there was a 3' diameter Stove exhaust Vent in the center of the roof. So to wisely pick and choose my battle; I started at that point Half Notching two sheets around it. I then ran half the roof the normal way with overlap. Then I installed the other half back lapping it by flipping it under which didn't slow me down much at all.
I hear roofers, brag about not using Glue on a roof, But if they will admit it they all have to used Glue around every plumbing Vent Boot on a metal roof.
JESUS is LORD,. I give Him all the Glory for these many Years He has Blessed my work.
He deserves Our Praise and Our Obedience.
Sometimes we don't strap where I'm at, I hate it lol, we use 1/4 hemlock roughly 3ft on center. looks good
You did an awesome job on that roof man looks great !
But I do have to ask why are you back lapping the steel ?
Just curious 😉 thanks
Good Question,
The reason I Back Lapped this side is that there was a large Roof Boot I think for the Kitchen, It was about 30" in diameter so I decided before hand to start two sheets at that point, Half of the notch out of one sheet and half of the notch out of the other.
I then continued across the roof one way with the normal lap and had to back-lap going the other way.
You have to do the same thing sometimes going around a dormer with valley's on both sides if the roof continues across below the dormer. You have to back feed the second side up the valley. A Little tricky But GOD is Good, Commit Your Work to Him and He will Bless it and show You how.
" Trust in the LORD with all Your Heart, and lean not on your own understanding, but in all Your ways acknowledge Him, and He shall direct your path."
TO KEEP IT FROM SLIDING AND LOCK IT IN PLACE BUT THE VALLEY WILL LEAK IT NEEDS SPLIT SHEET THERE
@@scottcook7036HOLY SMOKES BUB!!! Ya come in yelling, and not one thing you said was correct. I guess if you can't be right, atleast be loud.
It looks like your doing a clean job but you will have leak issues later on with the valley flashing and chimney. You should never rely on sealant to prevent leaking. A 5/16 wood zac screw would have been a better longer lasting screw.
Thank u everyone thinks he did great but that valley will leak we always step and counter flash our chimneys
Did a good job on the cut and everything but always put your screws on the highest point of the metals and should have screws 5in from the Fascia and 3ft apart from there
Manufacturers call for screws in the flats, it compresses the washer more evenly
I hate to c the puddles in the top of metal roofs u did plus it looks like ass with screws on to of the rib
Anyone know how they handle on the topguard paper and other product used for subroof?
Ur a genius and tuff.
How do they do on tyvek and plywood?
They are no better than work boots on a Plywood deck, but they work really good on a Metal Roof,
👏👏👏
If you add cougar paw review or something like that to your title you'll probably get more clicks and views because I had no clue that's was the video till I kept watching. Awesome job on the roof
Them screws are too tight and should never be in the flats of the roof that's where the water is screw it on the ribs and that valley will leak but that's handyman issue I guess roofers know better
I’ve never seen fan fold on a roof
I have but always pearled up wit 3x1 rough cut furring strips for some air flow
Nice boots. I would use the standing seam metall roof panels instead though rather than exposed screws relying on rubber washers to seal and not fail over time and elements
No doubt about it, 24 gauge standing seam with kynar paint is the best roof money can buy. Double field lock is the cat's ass.
Tighten those screws a little more
They got lightning protection 😬
This one actually did have lightning rods grounded. They were already installed on the previous roof. But normally we do not install lightning rods on any of the metal roofs we do, and we have not had lightning strike any of them. I do know that if you connect a ground from the metal roof or ground rods to the ground you cause lightning to strike.
I once was on a job in Florida where an Elderly Lady had told me the story of how her house had been struck by lightning twice and she Courageously had put it out using her neighbors garden hose. I walked around her house carefully examining what could have attacted the lightning. She had a crew come out and install lightning rods across the ridge of the roof, then they had the Copper ground come down the side of the house and it was all coiled up in a circle laying on the ground beside her house not connected to the Ground Rod. They were attracting the lightning but not grounding it out.
The guys must have got paid and ran off. Or maybe they were potheads.
In any event I brought her out and showed her why her house was being struck so often.
@@michaelsiemer3042 I do lightning protection here in south Texas for Bonded lightning protection and I must say ya the Florida guys do not follow codes sounds like but we always have to get on ridiculous pitches so I wanted to see if these cougar paws were an investment for my boss or not 🤔
@@derekmcmullin3816 You should still throw a rope over the roof on any steep roof. These really are not safe for anything more than an 8 pitch. But they do hold good on most new metal roofs. If there is mildew or moss starting to form on the metal, watch out! You will slide even with the magnetic boots. Also be ware of the Dew, If you work like I do right up to dark, the dew will start forming as soon as the Sun drops over the horizon, you will slide on the dew! No matter what pitch or what boots. These boots work best when it is hot and dry. Every so often I lift one foot up, balancing on the other as I wipe the bottom of the other foot on the pants leg of the other, just to wipe any film or dirt off as I am working.
Hope this helps, GOD Bless,
@@michaelsiemer3042 yes sir I thank you so much 😊
That is not even close to 8 or 9 pitch... You my friend need some help
Don't walk in dirt or grass with those boots. Put them on just before you go up
@@DougAllen-x7q Yes, You will find every nail or screw in the yard when you do walk across it. I scrape them several times on the ladder while going up it to get any junk off.
God Bless,
What a shocking job
That's an expensive roof....
Until U get a bit of swarf under ya boots then game over...
True! The Boots come with a hand held stronger magnet to sweep the bottem of your boots with periodically. In fact when you get to the top of the ladder you have to scrape your boots off or pull the magnet out of your nail apron and sweep it across the bottem of your boots removing all the nails and metal fragments you pick up just walking across the grass.
That’s going to leak like an old man with prostate 🤣 terrible job
This is awesome insulation 100% of the heat huh hopefully it will still be there when a breeze blows the metal off because you didn’t lath it out and you screw it ALL wrong and if that’s a 6/12 pitch I can walk a 15/12 I have a awesome crew people like you are job security for people like me that actually know what we are doing
Breeze blows the roof off? I just tacked the one piece for a minute in the video then I came back and screwed it as it is supposed to be screwed with one screw on the side of each rib in rows every 2' apart from one other according to the Manufactured recommendation. Those Little 1x strips you are talking about are working out for ah?
This house was built very strong with five ply 5/8 CDX not the cheep 7/16 OSB most builders use. And on the Fanfold idea. Be doing it for 20 yrs. It does take 100 percent of the heat off your house if you know how to install it correctly. You start it on the eve and use one piece with no joints all the way up to the ridge. You but the next piece tight to it nailing it down with button caps.
The heat does not transfer through the 1/4" fan fold foam. The heat stays on top and flowing up and out the ridge. We also never use that little standard ridgcap most builders use. We always use at least a 20 1/2" to 24" ridge cap normally 12" both ways.
Most metal roof companies will just sell you one that is only 8" both ways.
Jeffery, you have a lot of big talk, Do you Know the King Of Kings and LORD of LORDS? His name is JESUS. You should be humble before Him and He will exalt You in due season.
Yep I know him but he’s never told me about it being ok to screw people over the screws that you did put in will back out I’ve been doing this a long time people that do this have gotten me a lot of work over the years I have one to take off a strip out rite now so go ahead post all the videos you want for the 32 people that don’t know any better it’s job security for guys like me that do it correct oh and if you actually did screw it down tight as you should the insulation will compress and then the screws will be loose hence the screws will start backing out so I hope you have a blessed day sir
Don’t need turning strips if roof has 5/8sheeting I’ve done roofs for over 20 yrs everyday and I have yet to have one blown off
@@johnwright8300 the screws will not stay tight they back out I’ve been doing it every day for 25 plus years and I’ve changed several that customers were told yeh it’ll be fine and 5-10 years later I have to fix it thank all y’all for the work
They work Well, but Pray First to OUR Father in JESUS Name for protection. And don't walk on the Metal if it has Dew, or is Wet. And be careful not step on any Silicone, as it will leave a film on the surface of the Boot that will make you slide. After walking up the ladder and just before stepping onto the metal, you should scrape the bottom of your feet on the ladder to remove any screws or metal fragments you have picked up while walking on the ground. You should tilt each shoe sideways to see the bottom, and make sure it is free from objects before stepping onto the roof.
Quit smoking cigarettes
I don't drink, smoke or do drugs,. Jesus set me free.
Why they don’t work of they wet?
Grunts and sighs i feel that everytime and only 40 lol