Accuracy test - Pietta 1851 navy colt style
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- Опубліковано 8 сер 2020
- First loading and shooting of the Pietta 1851 Reb Nord 44 cal revolver.
Checking where the bullets hit and the grouping (accuracy), shooting
from a rest. Shoots high as expected, but check out the accuracy. I think
you'll be impressed -- I was. - Спорт
IMHO, this gentleman’s excellent accuracy has two causes- 1. He practices extreme care to achieve great consistency in his loading procedures. 2. He is a damn fine shot, reflecting great consistency of performance and lots of practice and experience. Very well done, Sir, and very fine video. Thank you.
...I bet he does not drink coffee, coca cola or listens to heavy metal... 🙂
The load is 25g 3f GOEF powder with 15g cornmeal on top 454 round ball cast from lee mold with spru up wheel bearing grease in the cyl. mouth SHOOTING FROM A REST ( I cant shoot that good free hand I only wish!!) 🤐🤐🤐
I have Remminton and Colts and have been amazed how well they shoot. Many thanks ans best wishes from the Uk
Thanks. I just read some of the restrictions about Black Powder firearms in U.K. and didn't know the level of difficulty. Makes me feel pretty lucky. Just wondering if yours are reps or originals? O.R.
Have one Remington that is original (dont shoot that. Have a Colt Navy that is original but was made by Colt in the 1970s so I am told. All others are reps. Yes we do have to go through some hoops to get firearms here but its not as difficult as some think.
@@larrybushman1 Thanks for the reply. Good to hear that you can own and enjoy. The Colt 2nd gens are neat. O.R.
I watched your video on the engraved Remington New Model Army and was impressed by the accuracy of this 1851 as I was with the Remington. Thank you for the great video!
Swell video of a sweet cap-n-ball revolver. I got my 1851 Pietta .44 Reb Revolver replica from Gander Mountain in 1983 for under $50 including shipping. This is, at least was, one of the cheapest guns for getting into black powder shooting. Didn't break the bank and has lasted nearly forty years, still functioning and accurate. I used 24gr of FFFg and had good results.
This was the ONLY handgun I could buy while living in Brooklyn, NY without a pistol permit. In NY state back then you needed a permit to fire black powder pistols. Also needed a Long Gun Permit to own rifle or shotguns within city limits. Solved these issues by moving upstate in 1988.
Sounds like a good move to me. Probably for the money, more fun is had with these guns than most others, at least that's been my experience. O.R.
Its great watching videos from times in the past where people were able to still buy percussion caps.
That’s sure the sad truth, and they were reasonably priced. O.R.
Bass pro shop, in stock Rem #10a as of 27 June 2024. Also online for store delivery, no hazmat fee and got a 10% military discount. Get en while you can!!!
As much a tribute to your eyesight as the gun itself considering the very rudimentary sights. I’ve a .36 Navy (Uberti) myself and it often gives as good if not better accuracy than my cartridge guns. Blackpowder guns continue to surprise me 😃
We have to wonder if they could shoot even better with more modern sights. But, I will admit that I get along well with the Remington's. You're right, the colt style leave quite a bit to the imagination. I assume you shoot mostly round ball. I am thinking about some way to run round balls through my K-38. Lee makes a .360 mould, maybe if the shortage gets over, I might give it a try. Suspect it may not go well. Thanks for the comment. O.R.
It's crazy how slow that bullets moving you could actually see it in some of the frames when he's shooting still has quite a bit of power behind it for how slow it's traveling
So does a 38 special
its really a quality camera not a slow bullet
I have been shooting these old revolvers and building flintlocks for a long time. I really enjoy watching your videos and comment your excellent shooting skills. God bless and keep up the great work.
Thanks Ray, hope we can keep doing what we enjoy - shooting and building. O.R.
Great teacher! I just ordered an engraved .44 thanks to your pleasant mentorship! My first!
Congrats Loren. My best wishes on the new venture. Life's too short not to try something new as long as it doesn't cause too much collateral damage; hurt or harm to self or others. O.R.
I’ve seen folks bring the POA down on these pistols by dremeling the V on the hammer or by using a hacksaw. It may be easier than raising the front sight. Seems to be a very accurate shooter. Thanks.
I agree that would be easier than putting on a front sight. If the shooter is going to use a partridge sight picture however, the top of the rear would need to be taken down a fair amount and make it look pretty different. If the notch is deepened then a different sight picture where the front bead would be held low in the rear. That would probably work, and wouldn't look as much out of place. I haven't tried that, but plan to as I have some extra hammers to work on.. Thanks for the comment. O.R.
Great shooting - thanks for posting this.
Great video and instruction! Thank you.
Darn good shooting, thats a impressive group.
Thanks, surprised the heck out of me. That gun is
about 3 years old, it has the slower 1-30 twist (approximately). The Black MZ made clean-up not bad. If I get ambitious will dovetail a higher front
with a post that can be easily replaced with a lower
because I think it will need to be raised at least 1/8 inch higher than it is. That would eliminate having to aim into the grass, dirt, or at least the bottom of the target.
Thanks for the video great grouping I just bought one yesterday from EMF . Can't wait for it to arrive
Thanks for the comment, and don't be disappointed if it doesn't do quite like this one did; I probably got somewhat lucky, and have done quite a bit of shooting. Good luck, and enjoy. O.R.
Piettas are very accurate.
@@williamlincoln7695 Won't get any argument for me on that . Especially the 44 calibers. I'm hoping they have gone to a faster twist in their 36's, which is what Uberti has done, (1 in 16). The only ones in 36 that I own are 10+ years old. I suspect the new ones are still running 1 to 30, but not sure, and haven't found any info on it.
I'm was avoiding the 1851 because I like how easy it is to change cylinders quickly on the 1858 New Army Remington model. Now I see the wedge on the 1851 comes out rather easy. I'm not looking for a super quick change. There are modern pistols for that. But now I might get one. Thanks for showing that I thought there was a screw and the wedge. I did have a .31 caliber with a screw and wedge it was a pain. I gave it away. This is a game changer.
Thanks week done great shooting.
Just to make sure you realize there is a screw there, but I believe it was never meant to have to remove it as some folks do to get the wedge out. I've never researched or heard this, but I suspect it is there to keep the wedge from passing out of the frame and into the horse crap and dust when someone removes the barrel in less than the ideal conditions. Keep safe. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 Thank you I m aware of this issue. To bad they can't make a spring loading wedge. Thanks for the heads up. I really appreciate it. Stay well and safe!!!
The wedge DOES have a spring in it...the screw is just there to keep the wedge from falling out all the way and losing it!
Wow, that is amazing accuracy for an out of the box gun! That gun got some magic put on it when it left the factory. Great shooting, thanks for posting!
I thought so too. I had one just like it that I sold it before shooting. Probably won't do that again..
same model here, shoots great, tightest grouping handgun i own lol
mines a 36 though
@@HircineDaWolf Pietta I assume. Brass or steel? I would be interested in knowing the approximate age and twist. I have been trying to find out if the newer Pietta 36's still have the slower 1-32, which makes about 1 quarter turn in the length of the barrel. I know they switched to a faster twist in their newer 1860's. Uberti has gone to a the faster 1-16 in their 36's, maybe Pietta has done the same. Thanks. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 it was made in 2020 for sure you can check for markings on the gun that determine its age
im not sure abvout the twist but it www.dixiegunworks.com/index/page/product/product_id/8675/category_id/321/product_name/SSB204+1851+NAVY+BRASS+FRAME+REVOLVER
I just ordered mine, I feel that I'm getting a good quality gun at a good price. Thanks for the video.
I've had mine for about 2 months now and I've shot over 200 rounds through. I absolutely love it. B.p. is such a fun hobby. I have also purchased '51 navy snub nose and a '47 walker.
Just subscribed. I like your style my friend.
Loved the Lesson of Doing A 'Visual Inspection Of Powder Depth'.
I’ve also recently acquired a CSA 1858 Remington New Model Army .44 and it also is in a brass frame. It is in great shape and was in the original box. That made my 3rd Black Powder pistol that I’ve ever owned. I got a good deal on it. I can’t believe I’ve missed out on black powder all these years.
Another reason to shoot black powder is that at least if I go the wrong direction, I'll be pretty used to what it smells like. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 Perhaps there will be cap and ball revolvers whichever direction we go. One can hope.
What a knowledgeable guy. I have a couple in line muzzleloaders but recently decided I wanna branch out into black powder pistols. I was just getting bored with all the polymer pistols we have now. Cabelas has this for 199. I think I’m going to pick it up tomorrow.
Thanks for the comment and info. Just checked the website, and appears like can only get at the store, if they have them. I've been waiting about a year to see the price drop to 199, as they used to do that quite regular. Even at the reg price the fun is worth it. Just that almost everybody likes a deal. I sold the one I had, and it is my brother's that I shot in the video. So, as Captain Jack Sparrow would say, "I too am in the market". O.R.
@@oldranger3044 I went to my local cabelas and they were out even though the website said in stock, I’ll be keeping my eye out for one of these, and I’m trying hard to find something chambered in 22 hornet aswell.
My girlfriend bought me two these last night at bass pro. I just went there for ammo.. and she knows ive been wanting these 1851s for awhil3 but they are always sold out. When i met up with her in the store she had two boxes in a bag... when i saw what she got i was overjoyed felt like a kid.. she got the 1851 confederate brass frame and the 1851 union version with a steel frame and a brass handle. Enrgaved too.
Love her. She got the 44cal. I didnt really want a .36. THE ONLY thing that sucks is the brass confederate one has scratchs on the barrel in a couple spots and a knick on thr hex on the barrel.. because it was a display gun. The other one they had another in the back.
Tbh bass pro should have given her a discount on the scratched one. Its a shame people who look at these misshandle them and cause damage to them
But its ok im happy i finally got one.. AND TWO to boot.
Maybe its just me but i think you spend way too much time loading this. Im new to black powder but ive hickock load these in under a minute or two. And goes right back to firing.
@@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305 get the guns of the old west paper cartridge kit and make them with round ball ammo, reloaded are easy and pretty fast, load, ram x 6, cap 6, shoot!
Colt Navy 1851 an work of art 😎
Great accuracy
I bought the same gun, but haven’t got to shoot it yet. I bought it and the 1860 Army both from Cabelas. Great video
Apparently it is aging them that counts. This one belongs to my brother -- he has had it about 3 years and never fired it either. Thanks for the thumbs up.
I believe you commented on another video about a boxes for the revolvers. I tried to open it, but it disappears so I can't respond to it. Maybe if you get this you can comment again as I have some info on boxes. O.R.
Okay, I don’t know why my comments so that, someone else mentioned that.
Worked this time. I think that I've seen percussion boxes on Ebay. They may also be available from Pietta or Uberti through places like Taylors or Cimarron. I have made several and once had the idea of selling. Tried to make them as original as possible with what is available. I would like to show you pictures, but don't know how that could be done. I think they really do justice to the re-pros that are being make now. Thanks again for the interest and reply. O.R.
You used to be able to send people things on UA-cam but they stopped it this year, silly if you ask me. But definitely would like to have one for my 1860. I’ll check Taylor’s and Cimmaron to see what they have, thanks for the info.
Fine shooting
Good tips 👍🏼
Great grouping.
Awesome !
Nice looking group
Nice group! I personally don't do any adjusting on my cap and ball revolver sights. Seeing as they are just "fun guns", and makes it a little more challenging to hit what you're shooting at. I also have Kirst conversion cylinders for my '51 Navy and '60 Army. It's nice to be able to shoot cartridge ammo in those guns as well.
Thanks Mike. I'm starting to lean in that direction. In the 80's I was using them in competition, and Kentucky windage wasn't enough. Also then I had fewer, and I could remember how each shot, but now that is different. If it's a gun that I plan to shoot and try to hit something, I may do something with the sights. I used to take down the rear of the hammer on the colts, but have stopped that. Colts shoot high, right? Try this. Remove the cylinder and replace the barrel. Lay it upside down on a flat surface, bring it to full cock and take note of the space between the rear of the barrel and surface. The gun should be resting on the front and rear sights. Now, move the hammer further back if possible. Again see how things align. If that hammer would be in that position at full cock, maybe it would not shoot high. Might not be anything you are interested in, as you say, already having fun with the guns, and that counts big time. O.R.
@@oldranger3044, That's an interesting way to check the elevation of the sights. I'll have to try that just for kicks. I find it interesting that the cartridge ammo hits in the same area as the ball ammo does (about 6" high at 25yards). Even though the bullets out-weigh the lead balls. I don't know what the velocity is for the C&B (20 grains .36 & 25 grains
.44), but both cartridge (.38 & .45) are right around 600 fps. It's funny, because 20 years ago you couldn't have given me one of those old smoke poles, now I can't get enough of 'em! I think my next C&B purchase will be a '63 Remington Pocket, along with the R&D conversion cylinder for .32.
@@mikek8089 Right, interesting. Its open for speculation, so here's one. As the recoil is more, and it is getting out slower, therefore should hit higher, right? But maybe at 25 yds the heavier slower is yielding to gravity and dropping 2-3 inches. Got to wonder what would happen at say half the distance. If they still hit the same, well, so much for that idea.
I think I've mentioned before that we are lucky to be in the time where those replica's are being made, and in a spot where we can purchase and own a small part of history. Go for it.
Here's my thought about the barrel on the flat surface. Just suppose that the original colts had a tad longer trigger sear, which would lock the hammer back further. The hand would need to be a bit shorter so that the cylinder wouldn't lock up too soon. The hammer (rear sight). would now be lower, and presto, shoots lower. Something I'll just have to wonder about, never had hands on an original. I can shorten the hand, but making the sear longer is where the challenge will be. Got to ask myself, why would I attempt such a thing ?? . O.R.
The sheriff's model came with a brass frame and it came with a
5 1/2 inch barrels for fast drawing.
You could order a sheriff's model with a steel frame and a extra 7 1/2 barrel..
The gun it self is a nice replica, so what if I guy wants a 44.
It still is a nice replica.
All those type pistols still resemble old style pistols.
Hey everyone, have fun out here.
Some folks point out that there were no 44’s in the 1851 style, and are critical. No doubt that none were known to be made, probably because of the steel then available. Just hope the same shooters don’t praise the ROA too much. As you point out, still a replica style, VS modern production. O.R.
My first cap and ball was an 1860 I built from a kit. It cost $85 at a gun shop. I think it was Armi san Marco, not sure though. I used to shoot it at 30 - 35 yards and it was amazingly accurate, it consistently shot groups like yours.
What year was it? I just bought a 1979
@@historyandhorseplaying7374 It was about 1983, maybe 1984. I can narrow it down, I can't be sure though. I have trouble remembering what I did last week, let alone the early 80's.
@@deandeann1541 haha me too. Am almost afraid to try this one out, considering the age, and it looks quite beat up, but still in good condition. I may fire it 20 feet from anyone else and while wearing a thick glove and helmet just in case
This was my first black powder gun, but the Sheriff model with shorter barrel. I had many happy hours with it, it should be right on target at about 75 yards.
sure looks like fun
Years ago, when I was first introduced to this Navy and others, I heard that the brass-framed revolvers were not as robust as the steel-framed revolvers. Do you know this to be true? Seems like it makes sense, although maybe not in a practical sense. Also, I was taught to load the ball with sprue on the side so that as I pressed the ball in the edge of the cylinder charge hole would tend to trim off most of the sprue. Thanks for your videos. I have not fired my 1858 Remington .44or 1860 Navy .44 in a very long time. Due to ammo prices lately shooting charcoal sounds like a fun thing to get back into.
Yes, its always fun to re-visit old haunts. Some cylinders are beveled, so not sure if they will trim or compress. If they compress, seems like that could upset the balance of the ball, maybe?? Also, I believe the Lee molds (maybe some others) cut the spruce slightly below the sphere curvature, so maybe there could be some area not shaved, which could leave an entry point to the powder. At any case, if it was working probably stick with your method.
I've heard the same about the brass frames if shooting heavy loads. Other than that, the only experience is that I bought one on-line that had the cylinder pin (not sure if that is the correct part name) held in with liquid steel or epoxy. Those are threaded into the back of the frame, and the brass female threads were stripped. Oh well, parts are parts, hope I never need cash enough to pass it on to someone else. Thanks for the comments and encouragement to make videos. O.R.
Wild Bill would be jealous of that group👍🏻
Thanks for the comment; reminds me of a photo that my brother took in some museum. Possibly the Cody one. Anyway, it was of what was claimed to be Wild Bill's gun and holster. 51 Navy with ivory grips and some engraving. But, I feel the interesting thing, and possibly something that could help to prove it may have been his was the front sight. Not original, but higher, and on a dovetail. The acclaimed pistolero might not of liked the colts shooting high like they appear to. Also, would have given him the ability to correctly sight it for windage. Very interesting I thought. O.R.
thats a good group
If you tumble your cast round ball in your tumbler for 8 hours the sprue gets rounded off. Thanks for your videos.
At one time I was actually wondering if that would work. Thanks for the idea, I’m going to try it in my old rock tumbler that I’ve been using for cleaning brass. Will see what happens to the flat tangent spot that is a bit below the circumference. O.R.
that is damn good grouping... 😀
Thanks. Might have been some luck, but never the less, have to give the gun a thumbs up. O.R.
good group
This gun was designed for battle . They were for close range from horseback . Point at the belt buckle hit in the mid section
That’s why Wild Bill Hickok liked them, and Elmer Keith used one to take grouse. O.R.
Dang fine group excellent shooting. Yeah tell your brother that it took four reloads before you ever hit the board holding the paper.lol
Good plan, I like your thinking. He brought 4 for me to test. Pity is, that when he returned back west, he forgot to take them with. I offered him $500. But, I think he meant I should keep them. O.R.
@@oldranger3044I was surprised how well of a group they held. I do believe soon I will aquire two in 36 cal. I have a 16 year old who is wanting to get into black powder pistols. We do alot of shooting and have a few black powder ky long rifles. So thank you for the great videos on these weapons.
Kentucky windage. I have been shooting black powder for over 40 yrs. Adjust your impact point to left or right also up or down. Very simple if you have a lot of shooting to your experience.
What is the yardage that the gun is set to shoot at? I read where the Colts and Remingtons had different distances they were tuned into by design. Off that mark, and Kentucky Windage was how you aimed them. I read in the Pietta manual that they recommend to not use over 15 grains, which seems mighty weak. I've seen where most shooters with these guns use 22-25 or more grains. Thoughts? Thanks!
Interesting topic. There would be little point I feel in pistols being sighted for 100 yards, which is maybe where the bullet might hit where it is aimed. That Pietta is a 44 cal, but in the style of the 1851's, which I believe were only in 36 cal. The 36 would be faster, less recoil, and therefore should shoot lower. With that said, all the reps I've had in 36 cal also shoot high at 25 yards, and probably higher at 50, because I suspect projectile is still rising. I've always had a difficult time believing that the originals did that. They made shoulder stocks for them. Why?. if you had to aim at ground In front of someone, to hit them where it hurts? Anyway, that's all speculation for me.
Be sure the gun is unloaded. Remove the cylinder, cock the piece. Note the position of the hammer (which is the rear sight). Now see if the hammer can be drawn back more. It probably can be, and as it does, it will probably lower. The rule. Move the rear sight in the direction you want the bullet to move, right? So, Maybe the re-pro's need to be timed so that the sear engages the hammer further back. Maybe, just maybe, the originals were done this way. And then, maybe they just shot high. But you got to wonder how they got the army contracts that way. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 Good thoughts. You can just put it in a rest or on a sand bag and fire. And then see where the bullet actually hit...
The 1851 .44s aren’t historically accurate because Colt never produced any. However, he did have designs for them which is why the replica companies justify producing them. The 1851’s were always very accurate for their time. Colt felt they were the best guns he ever produced (he died before his company produced cartridge guns).
Excellent bit of info. You may disagree on this, but seems like the new 44's way out shoot the older 36's in the accuracy department, and couldn't get the 44's I had years ago to do any better. They were a 2nd get Walker, 1860, and 2nd dragoon. Turns out they all have about a 1-60 twist and my recent Pietta's and Uberti's are 1-30 or 1-16 (approx). Any thoughts about the originals with their gain twists?? O.R.
@@oldranger3044 Thanks. I'm inclined to agree with your assessment of the .44s since I've never fired a .44. Any opinion I offered about the originals and their gain twists would be ill informed at best.
Yeah my Reb shoots just about as good as that one :D
Saw one of my college professors at the range and had a chance to let him shoot it.
He was surprised at how accurate it was compared to the guns he brought.
My 1851 Pietta is a 36 caliber but the following applies.. I ream the chambers to .373 so the .375 balls that you buy simply fit too loose (I use .380 after reaming the cyl to .373) The same for my 44 BP guns... ream to bore size then use oversize balls.. in my case that is .457 balls..Anyway... your vids are really good and you are pretty methodical which I like.
Thanks for the compliment and your information. Always a pleasure to hear from shooters like you that are making things work. O.R.
I would sure give $100.00 for it. Dang good group
Shame that Black MZ is no longer made an excellent clean burning non corrosive powder that was inexpensive and had good power. Was not granulated in 3f but the 2f worked fine in cap and ball revolvers. Thanks Enjoyed the video.
I agree 100%. And for the large size or granules it ignites amazingly well. Not easy to tell the difference, at least for me, if someone loaded alternate chambers. Suppose the market is too small, or there's some other reason why it doesn't get reintroduced. A shame for sure. O.R.
A great video for sure but 25 grains is a bit of a high powder charge for a brass framed revolver. Generally I've seen it suggested that you stay at or below 20 grains in brass framed revolvers to reduce the stretching and wear on it. Steel frames of course are stronger and can handle higher pressures.
I had another similar comment awhile back, and this was my response:
Thanks for pointing this out. The Manuel suggests 12-15 grains FFF for the 44's. It also gives 35 as the maximum. The same Manuel is included with the steel frames, brass, and the 1858 style guns. These loads are for the .454 round ball. On page 180 of "Black powder loading Manuel" by Sam Fadala, 1982, loads are given for a brass 44 cal "sheriff Reb" 15,20,25, and 30. I think your 18-20 would be a good choice for the brass frames. Shooting more could possibly cause faster wear on these guns. I don't have experience with brass frames, but can say they I have seen 36 caliber steel frames have some issues after shooting a fair amount of full chamber loads of FFF. These are pretty large chambers in the 44, and I have to think that a 12 grain load might not be able to be compressed with the length of the loading level without using a filler, especially in the 1858's or 1860's. Thanks for this comment, maybe others will add to it. O.R.
Also, I believe I was using BlackMZ which seems a little tamer than FFF GOEX. I probably would take your advice and go to 20 if I were to shoot much with the gun. Possibly at the time I used 25 because I may have been getting slack for using "Wimp" loads, since I do some target shooting. Thanks for the comment. O.R.
Awesome video. On the sight issue.. you do not need to have a new front sight made. In the hammer is the "V" notch. What needs to be done is use either a file or a Dremel tool with a cutting disc and make the notch deeper. The will lower the POI and make the bullet hit lower on paper. I literally did this last night with my new to me .36 caliber navy BP pistol. I lowered it from hitting 12" above POA to 2" above POA at 20 yards. I should be just about dead on at 35-ish yards.
Thats where you want to be I feel. The idea that they hit point of aim at 75-100 yards may be correct, but who shots at that distance?? Especially with a BP handgun. I don't think Wild Bill did, especially with his reported vision issue. Just a question. With the cylinder out of the gun and when cocked, is it possible to move the hammer further back than then in the cocked position -- just wondering. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 Yes is can be cocked with the cylinder out of it. At least the 2 I have can. I am not sure if I am understanding your question right. You should be able to function the gun like normal with the cylinder out.
@@kennethdobesh4577 After clocking with the cylinder, I am interested in if you can draw back the hammer more. In other words, when it is in the cocked position, is that the absolute. You take your thumb off the hammer and let it rest in the cocked position. Now see if it is possible to move it back more, of course it will not stay in that position, and if you can move it back more, notice that the position of the sight would be lowered as that is the direction that the hammer is not traveling in it's arc. Thanks. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 AHH!! I do understand. That makes sense. I am sure mine will cock further. Like you said it wont stay. I fixed mine with a Dremel tool. I am happy with how it shoots like that. I took it all apart and polished all the internals. BOY talk about a difference in operating. The trigger is so smooth. Can't hardly feel it move till the gun goes off. I did not make it a light trigger, just polished the surfaces. That made a heck of a difference in the accuracy! Good luck
@@kennethdobesh4577 Glad to hear that, and thinks for checking out where the hammer cocks on your piece. Appreciate it. O.R.
Doesn't shoot very well!? Those were right on top of eachother. Aim low lol! Did you ever fix the sight so it works? I'm thinking of getting one of these so I'd be curious to see how it's done.
I have made sight mods on a number that shoot high, or left or right or combinations. This was not my gun so I didn’t mess it up. Actually, a front sight change can I believe be observed on the gun in the Buffalo Bill Cody Museum in Cody, and therefore I feel is a “legal” modification. I have used several methods, here is one that I used on a brass engraved 44 Pietta. ua-cam.com/video/5ge5v25NfcE/v-deo.html&si=fnrl_Zo4Zh4V2Vxn. If the link doesn’t work, try searching “1851 44 cal Pietta Sight Change”. I have also pulled out the post sight and replaced it with a taller one. I have cut dovetail notch and put a dovetail sight in, similar to the Wild Bill gun. Hope this helps some. O.R.
Good video. You sound like Jack Palance. 😊
Always liked his acting, glad you enjoyed the video. O.R.
About 40 years ago I had cap and ball revolvers and all shot way high. I don't know if they were ment to shoot at longer ranges but they were accurate.
Sounds about right 1 foot high at 12 yards.
If I were to guess, most were the colt style at that time. Mine were too, and reluctantly can say that I took down the rear hammer on some, and built up the front sight because target shooting didn't work well having to pick a random spot a foot or two below the bull. I know others have said they were 50 or 100 yard sights, but I have to wonder why a short range weapon would be sighted for that range. I'm thinking about re-timing one so that the hammer cocks in a further back position causing it to be lower. If I succeed, I may do a video on it. Thanks, enjoyed your comment. O.R.
Old Ranger The .44 1860 and Dragoons were intended to be able to drop a horse and/or rider at 75 yards. That's why they shoot high at 25 to 50 yards. I have no really authorities citation for that in my mind. That was with full power loads. With that brass frame, best keep the loads quite long or the frame will stretch or the cylinder pin will begin to pull out and render the gun rather defective.
@@normanbraslow7902 Yup, I read somewhere the 1873 was developed and part of the criteria for the cartridge was that it could kill a horse at 100yds, I guess they wanted an extra 25 margin of safety. 40gr behind a 250gr bullet, reduced to 35. Then a load with 28gr.
@@normanbraslow7902 10-4 on that.
Hey Old Ranger, What do you think about shooting conical bullets in these brass frame .44s? I’ve got 200 grain conical bullets and I was wanting to try them out in Ol’ Johnny Reb. I’ve done a little bit to mine since I’ve watched your video. I’ve smoothed up the action and rounded the corners on the hammer to stop cap sucking. I’ve added slix shot nipples also. I’ve also done some work on the barrel, I opened up the loading port with a Dremel and deepened the ram rod so now I can load conicals in the cylinder. You can’t even tell I did it. I also smoothed the barrel up so that it didn’t look so “Italian” by deleting the Pietta stamping on both sides. I’m now going to reblue it with Birchwood Casey’s Super Blue but I’ve been debating about antiquing it also. I bought some barrel brown from Dixie Gun Works. It shoots great now which it shot pretty good straight out of the box. Any how i was wanting to know would you shoot conicals in your brothers gun and if so what grain would you go with and what you wouldn’t?
Sounds like you are really getting into it, and having fun. That's one of the neat things about the price of the guns. A person isn't too concerned about possibly loosing a great deal of $ if something doesn't work out so well.
As to conicals, probably stay away from heavy ones and heavy loads. Starting with 200 grain ones and low powder, as long the bullet seats on the powder. If you keep the recoil in the same range as with the round ball, things should be O.K. On page 186 of the book "Black Powder Loading Manual" by Sam Fadala, he shows a picture of what appears to be a brass frame 1858 and used a 220 gr. Lee and 25 grains of 3F. I would not recommend that load for the 1851 style brass frame however. Always check with other sources when possible. Hope this helps. O.R.
Thanks O.R. That info will help me out a lot. I’ll try and find some books on Black Powder too next time I’m by Books a Million or someplace similar. Yeah, I’m really enjoying these BP guns, I can’t believe I’ve missed out on them for so long. I’ll let you know how everything goes with the conicals. Thanks again and I’m looking forward to your next video. Happy Shooting!
@@wvbygraceofgod5508 I think you'll enjoy the video I'll post soon. I had good luck shooting Lee conicals, actually the 200 grain ones, in my 1858 (2011) Pietta. I think they actually out shoot the round balls, which says a lot, and surprised the heck out of me. O.R.
Can’t wait to see it, hard to believe conicals outshooting round balls. I’ve really enjoyed the 1858 I purchased and I’ve been wanting to shoot conicals in it. I’m looking forward to your video and I’m sure it’s gonna be informative to me when I go to shoot conicals in mine. Love the channel!
you could write your initials O.R. with it!
did you do a comparison of .36 and .44?
At 20 yds my steel frame groups at 2 o'clock. I've learned to aim it at 7 o'clock and it hits dead center every time. Also, did you know they make 30 grain pellets of powder? No measurements required.
Thanks for the info. I think the pellets are triple seven or pyrodex. I'm usually on the cheap, and for the amount of shooting I do, I can save about $15.00 on a 80 round shooting session. Also, I need the ability to load 36 cal. Thanks again for the comment and info which someone will no doubt find useful. O.R.
I have two of these, neither of them can hit anything further than 10 yards away... But they're fun as all hell!
Maybe you are already a seasoned pistol shooter, so my suggestion may not be necessary. However, for handguns one cannot pull the trigger like a rifle. Concentrate on sight alignment as you keep adding pressure to the trigger. The gun will decide when to fire, more than the shooter. This plan works pretty well in target shooting, combat would be much different. Yup, their a "blast". Keep safe. O.R.
You mean to tell me they cant lob the round more than 10 yards out ? Hickock hit the gong on his range with them.. you sure youre loading it right ?
@@oldranger3044 that's pretty good advice 👍 I think my problem is that I don't want to alter the pistol, but it really needs some resighting.
@@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305 yeah, definitely loading it right. And have experimented with different kinds of powder, different wadding, different grain count... But anything past about 10 yards is a crap shoot (pun intended). I'm thinking it's the sights on these. Not much in the way of adjustable sights. I'm sure Hickok, Earp, Buffalo Bill, etc had the ambition to fine tune the sights. Me? I'll get there eventually.
I bought the same model a couple years ago. I was incredibly impressed with the accuracy of these reproduction guns. Not historically accurate but shooting accurate.
Well put. O.R.
Old Ranger I must disagree. With these guns, shooting accuracy is secondary. Historical accuracy trumps shooting. No 1851 navies by Colt were in .44. None were with brass frames. For not much more, be authentic. Steel frames. Want a 44? Get the 1860 Army, or one of the Dragoons. Want accuracy? The genuine Colt reissues are the best but quite expensive, but the Uberti is very good. The reissue Colts are hard to get, but Uberti, no problem.
@@normanbraslow7902 I'm pretty sure we all are aware that the 1851 navy was never offered in .44. as for historical accuracy vs shooting accuracy, that is a matter of personal taste. I have a steel frame so I'm not worried about the brass stretching over time. I can see your point though. It pissed me off to find out that my Drisket shotgun doesn't count for muzzleloader season because of its 2 barrels, but I can get an inline with a scope mounted and that's fine. Nevermind hunting with a gun literally made in the time period that the season hopes to emulate.
andy d, I don't blame you for being pissed about the double barreled shotgun and the inline black powder with a scope! I have a visceral revulsion with those "black powder" inline monstrosities. Some states require that the lock on the muzzle loaders for hunting must be open, specifically authorizing the classic cap lock or flintlock, only. Inlines are prohibited. I believe Washington state has that requirement. When I first got into black, I was advised by a grizzled Old Timer that if I was going to do it, I should go all out: even the percussion plains rifle was too modern in his taste. So, he got me into flint, with of course curly or tiger tail maple stocks and all. As for the Colts, he was scandalized when he saw my brass framed EMF 1851 clone, and persuaded me into dumping it and getting several of the Colt second generation re-issues, namely the 1851 and a 1848 Third Model Dragoon. My old friend would have been scandalized had he lived to know that got a bison with a Shiloh Sharps. I should have used the .50 flinter.......
@@normanbraslow7902 flintlock is something I haven't tried yet. Maybe next year I'll look into getting one. Percussion really grew on me after getting the shotgun. Kinda wish more people would get involved in muzzleloader. It's a different hunt
Tha looks pretty accurate to me.
Bee's wax works good for me. It gets hot here in New Mexico. You can carry with out it melting out.
Also shooting these in NM! I still use bore butter, but will try wax! Anything to support bees :)
@@bradenanderson5087 LOL, The bee's will not love you for robbing they're work and spit.
Can you tell me, when men carried these original guns. How often would they change the loads in their guns. Im thinking of working cowboy. There must be a time limit? Thanks.
Probably not a lot of info on that, if any. Best chance might be in some Military Manuel. Its maybe one of those undocumented things like how they started fires. There is plenty of room for pure speculation here. Things to consider. It's pretty dry in the West. Not so much East or South. Ammo components were probably expensive for the worker. How long can a loaded round last if dry?? Quite a while. Probably indefinite. What about cleaning once it was fired? Not something I always look forward to, and I have a facility. Be interesting for folks with more savvy then me to do some articles on it. A research project for sure. Thanks for the interesting comment. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 The time of loading to firing is very difficult to assess, environmental conditions as you say play a big part, but I have fired pistols loaded before WWII, (an Adams), and kept in the loft of a house and that fired with no problem, it had been stored without caps, so was unsealed from that end, just wrapped in a rag. Chris B.
There's not a lot of official documentation but contemporary articles hint, at least in the case of Wild Bill, that he fired, cleaned and reloaded each morning to keep in practice and to ensure his smoke wagons had a fresh load for the day. Unfortunately, 19th century reporting was known to be about as full of crap and sensationalized as the media today, so your guess is as good as mine. 🤠
@@453421abcdefg12345 wow that is amazing. But on horseback bouncing around must move things. My humble view is that he may only load to chambers, if in a fairly safe area. Im sure they would want to save a few dollars too.
In a practical sense, you have to figure that men would change loads over a period of time so as to ensure no moisture built up and ruined the powder. But the fact of the matter is that classic black powder does not have an expiration date. There are accounts of guns loaded for decades in a safe or a display still firing off with no problem.
The percussion caps may be another story and would likely have to be changed out before you get an old gun to fire its charge.
25 grains with a brass frame? Aren't you a bit worried that might be a bit too much? I think the recommended is 15, but that sounds a bit silly to me, so I would go about 18 to 20. Thoughts?
Thanks for pointing this out. The Manuel suggests 12-15 grains FFF for the 44's. It also gives 35 as the maximum. The same Manuel is included with the steel frames, brass, and the 1858 style guns. These loads are for the .454 round ball. On page 180 of "Black powder loading Manuel" by Sam Fadala, 1982, loads are given for a brass 44 cal "sheriff Reb" 15,20,25, and 30. I think your 18-20 would be a good choice for the brass frames. Shooting more could possibly cause faster wear on these guns. I don't have experience with brass frames, but can say they I have seen 36 caliber steel frames have some issues after shooting a fair amount of full chamber loads of FFF. These are pretty large chambers in the 44, and I have to think that a 12 grain load might not be able to be compressed with the length of the loading level without using a filler, especially in the 1858's or 1860's. Thanks for this comment, maybe others will add to it. O.R.
actually with BMZ lube is not needed. The fouling is consecutive not cumulative, that is the gun is always just one shot dirty. You will also note the over ball lube disappears when shot. I shoot a lot and use a lubricated 1/8" felt wad under a .451" ball and have never so far had a chain fire. That is really good shooting congratulations.
Interesting. I've used the lube mostly to help prevent the chain fire, since not using the wads. I have been suspicious that it might not be needed. I'm going to try a number of cylinders and see if I can notice accuracy decrease as I have with GOEX. I could also clean after a couple shots, then after a dozen or so, and see if there is much difference. I'm sure there are folks that wonder what all the fuss about accuracy is about, but it's something that needs doing in certain competitive shoots. Thanks for the reply. O.R.
Elmer Keith claimed he had an original .36 Navy Colt that would shoot into a ragged hole at 25 yards, notwithstanding a section of barrel that was rusted out. Your 1851 videos seem to corroborate his claim about the often overlooked precision in these guns when loaded properly. Very impressive! Just out of curiosity, why 21 yards and not 20 or 25?
Sure, a valid question. Turns out that where I placed my backstop in relation to my shooting bench, it measures 21 yards to the target stand. Feel good to know you are aware of Keith and his work "Sixguns". The section I'm familiar with says that he could cut clover leaves for six shots at 20 yards all day long. He also said he traded it for a modern SAA, and regretted it the rest of his life, as the new one did not shoot as well. WELL, there we have it from the Dean of Sixguns. Not that he didn't love SAA's and he could get them to shoot; but it does say a lot for the cap and ball guns. I'll bet that he had his "off" days, and so do we all, but when properly loaded and shot, they should never be underestimated. Thanks for the comment. O.R.
I've got a bad itch to get a Remington New Army. The 1858 patent.
Of course I'm going to get a couple of the Colt ones too, but I'll get the Remington to start.
Who makes the better one, Uberti or Pietta?
I like them both. From what I hear, read, or whatever, the Uberti is a bit more like the originals. I own both, don't be afraid to put one of each in your shopping cart. What the heck, we probably only go around once. Remember that old Poka line: "In heaven there is no beer, that's why we drink it here." Probably the same with guns. So, which one first? I should be political and sidestep the question. It will ultimately be your decision of course, but I lean toward the Pietta. From Cabela's you can get a set of internals like hammer, trigger, hand, springs, etc for about $35. Nothing against the Uberti. Don't overlook the used stuff on gun broker. The older Pietta's have the slower 1-30 twist. Don't know when they changed, (I'll need to add to my collection to find out), but now they are faster. Mine shoot very well with both twists, but I suspect the faster would do better with conicals. Check out some of the videos done on the guns, I think there is some differences in the seating lever, but my memory is a but fuzzy on that. Hope this helps, enjoy the quest. O.R.
Oh, one big difference, the Uberti has a windage adjustable front sight. It is a dovetail that you can drive left or right. The Pietta is a post, maybe soldered in, but probably just a tight fit. Hard to modify. You can grind a side for small sighting adjustments, but it you are off say 4-5 inches at 25 Yds, you will have an issue. Height in not as much of a problem, as both guns will probably shoot low, and the sight can be filed down to compensate. Important point. These are not $2000 gun safe queens or antiques. Do what you gotta do. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 thanks, that's really good to know. I dont plan on letting mine sit around too much. Might even get a couple more of the different ones.
My wife told me an 1851 is the only black powder I need. I'm a ham radio operator, and I have to count to see how many radios I own now... One is never enough.
@@steveinkentucky I love your attitude, and have lived most of my life that way. If something was good, I wanted to be sure I had enough. Suppose that is greed. I only wish that when I was a kid, and I had the feeling that the military rifles that sold for $15-$18 were going to become difficult to get, that I would have had the $ to invest.
Oh, three of my best friends in H.S. were hams. They had a room full of CQ cards I believe. It wasn't voice then, all morse. I would have liked to do that, but no $ for the equipment. O.R.
TOOK me almost two years to find my Pietta 1851 Navy Black Powder Revolver 44 Caliber 4.875" Barrel Steel Frame Blue. It's now out of stock yet again. DAMN. WHATS DA DEAL WITH THAT ? I brew my own powder. Works quite fine it does. Using a bullet blender 75% KNO3, 15% Red oak charcoal (Walmart) and 10% brim stone. All by weight. I use grams. Blend it wet with 90% isopropanol alcohol. Longer you blend the better it turns. Push the powder mud thru a fly screen you end up with close to 3F grade. Sun Dry and your off to have da fun !
Thanks. Glad you found it. Guess most stuff that shoots is getting harder to get at this time. Hope that changes. Suppose some increased demand, and possibly more difficult to produce with the lockdowns etc. Don't understand bullet blender? Interesting, not sure I need another hobby, but you sure got me interested. O.R.
www.walmart.com/ip/Magic-Bullet-Mini-Blender-7-Piece-Set-200-Watt-with-Cross-Blade-Silver/433938236?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&&adid=22222222227000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=aud-1025716567856:pla-51320962143&wl5=9030627&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=433938236&veh=sem@@oldranger3044
@@pulesjet Great, and thanks. Will be putting on my Old Ranger mask and heading in. As long as the wife doesn't find it, its mine. Actually, after I use it a couple times, the smell will keep her out of it. O.R.
Where would one get a higher front sight and how are they pressed in?
I've pulled out a couple. Not sure if they are just pressed or possibly some solder under the sight. The right size brazing rod turned down some in the drill press to fit a little oversized. The original is pretty much destroyed when it comes out. It's kind of a one way street once started. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 I meant to ask you about the 1858. I'd like to fit a front sight that I can see (a little wider). I've even thought about putting a fiber optic sight which would require taking it to a smith, but it's not much good if I can't see it. I put a fiber optic on my .351 and it works like a charm.
Ещё одна красивая стрельба...Спасибо за ролик...Жаль что в России таким нельзя владеть...(по крайней мере легально,хотя бы по лицензии охотника)))
Власти боятся таких кольтов))))в руках у народа))))....я бы то же купил...
@@user-qp5ge9xs2l Да ни чего власть не боится...Просто обычная дурь...
Can't you load six and rest the hammer between the cylinder on that model? It's safe to do so, yes?
Probably nothing is "totally safe, but if the cylinder has small pins, and the hammer has the notch, it is quite safe to have the hammer locked by the pin. But, I always feel it just a bit safer to rest on an empty chamber. Actually most time I load 6 as I am not carrying. That way I have less chance of (just saying) ramming a ball down on no powder. I find that as I get older, it's getting tougher. Anyway, I loaded five in that test I believe more out of habit from competitive shooting.
How do you clean this particular 1851 Pietta Rebel after a session of shooting?
Two methods. When I know I will be back at it with the gun in a few days, I clean as follows. Remove barrel and cylinder. Wipe the gun frame and hammer of fouling. I put the barrel and cylinder in fairly hot water, can add some soap if desired. Run cleaning patch through barrel and into cylinder chambers. Repeat till the water has cleared up. Tooth brush the nipples in the water. Dry everything, I use air compressor. Follow quickly with gun oil. If I will not be shooting it in the near future, there is the chance that it will not be fired again for months, or years. In this case I also take all parts out of the frame, and clean them. Maybe it would help if I do a video of that process. I haven't because there a number of cleaning vids on youtube that are good. Hope this helps some, and please leave a comment if you would like a video on this. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 I appreciate it. I did almost everything you did except blow it out with an air house, and I should have. I noticed there was some rusty water that had dried in my cylinder after I had done everything. I know some of those UA-cam videos said that some gun cleaners doesn’t do well with black powder and all the gun oils I have are some type of cleaner. I just have to find me some type of oil to wipe mine down after I clean it. I was just wondering what do you use. All these videos I see on UA-cam say to use Ballistol and I can’t find it nowhere locally. I guess I just have to order it over the internet. I was just wondering if you had any home remedies for oil that you used. I know you had your own bore butter formula. I like your “old school” vibe to your videos. They appeal to me more that someone who always trying a sales pitch for their sponsors.
@@wvbygraceofgod5508 Appreciate the complement. Just trying to give others an opportunity to see or find out what I've found out. Not that all of it is absolute, just my experiences and maybe others can benefit. Also, folks like you give me additional reasons to carry on. Thanks. The oil I use is pretty simple. Years ago I got hold of some surplus gun oil that pretty much compares to basic 3 in 1, or at least that's what it used to be called. Just a general oil. I have a can of 30 weight on the bench that I dip stuff in, and have been know to put the internal parts in about an inch of that in the bottom of a Dixie cup. Let them soak until I get around to pouring off the oil and letting them dry out on a paper towel. With the cylinder I usually put some on a cleaning patch (one of those rag swabs works well) and wipe the inside of the chambers once they are dry, which doesn't take long since I use hot water. Nipples get a drop on the part where they thread into the cylinder, not in their holes. My cleaning patch is damp, but not soaking or dripping because less problems with ignition next time. A video would sure show it better, but maybe this helps. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 thanks a bunch. It does help and gives me a better idea on how I can take better care of my 1851 and 1860. I’ve always had stainless, or polymer or synthetic style guns which cleaning and caring for them is as simple as cleaning my glasses. Never used water before to clean a gun and seeing dried rusty water in a few places after the last time I cleaned them kinda told me I wasn’t finishing up like I should.This does help and appreciate it.
I always pinch the caps so they stay on better
I always go with 454 dia. Balls in Pietta revolvers.
I believe that is what Pietta recommends. My 2011 1858 has close to .444 chambers, same for the 1860. Can't go wrong with the .454, especially if it is cast and the spruce cut off is some below tangent. Extra size would allow for the smaller diameter of the ball to be loaded against the side of a chamber and seal it from gases getting into an adjacent chamber past the ball and igniting the charge. O.R.
Been tough loading that way on horse back in civil war Indian wars ect.
Right. I suppose some loading was done on horseback, however probably difficult, especially at a gallop. Maybe they learned to hold the reigns by their teeth so they didn't fumble or drop their gun or components. Thanks for mentioning that. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 u bet read they carried more one and just swap cylinder have loaded ones to go now I say that just like Eastwood did in pale rider
My opinion, that show was classic, and I think did lots for increasing interest in the old guns. Also lucky that folks are making replicas of lots of neat stuff at affordable prices. Keep safe, and I'm not planning on checking out the horse thing. C-19 would be the least of my worries. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 yes it is. then everyone talked about his revolver your right it helped i always liked the look to the black powder revolvers
@@robertayoder2063 The look, the balance, and the feel. Suppose I just watched to much TV back in the day. My first handgun was a 1861 made by Uberti, and imported by Replica Arms of Ohio. O.R.
I can't find black mz anywhere. I wanted to try it
I know, I and others are disappointed. Sportsman's warehouse was the last place I know of that carried it. The main advantage I found over GOEX is that it cleans up faster, and creates less fouling-longer shooting sessions before cleaning. In the accuracy department, I really can't say it is superior, and it did seem that the original black had smaller speed deviations. A healthy amount of lube can help with the fouling of the "real stuff". O.R.
@@oldranger3044 You should try Swiss BP, I find that it burns very clean, and has far more power than any other I have tried grn for grn, but it is more expensive that some of the other brands.
@@453421abcdefg12345 I'm going to. I have a couple lbs that I procured somewhere, but have been reluctant to try for fear that I will like it, and then not be able to afford it. I can easily believe that black powder has changed over the years. There seems to be lots of issues with keeping the fouling soft. But I have to wonder if it was always that way with powder say made in the mid 1800's. I've been saving for the opportune time to open a 15 or 20# metal canister that a relative gave me that he found in this father's barn or shed. It had part of a wrapper that said something like "Orange rifle powder". That farm goes back to the the 1800's. Sure be interesting for someone that's more familiar with powders than I to investigate. O.R.
So did you get to buy it off your brother? lol
So .44 1851 or .44 1858 Pietta ? What should I get first?
No, he got suspicious. Considering prices of basic stuff today (primers if available, hamburger, car repairs, dental care) both are actually good prices I feel. If you enjoy watching the Good-Bad-U), maybe one of each. Sort of depends on which style you might enjoy looking at and handling. The 58 is normally considered overall better, Van Cleef preferred it, but we know what happened to him. Even liking the 51 feel, I think if I could only own one it would be the 58. Granted its more $, but it seems more reliable and probably won’t shoot 8+ inches high at 20 yds. Also I prefer the sights. O.R.
Spruce on top. Use wads/grease.
Hola, me podrían informar que alcance tiene? Gracias
19 Meters or 21 Yards. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 pense que tenia mas alcance gracias muy buen video
The 1851 navy's are really accurate
I think i read you dont want to go over 25 grains with the brass frames
Especially with a heavy conical, I would guess it might not end well. Maybe someone has experience; all I have is a brassy 44 that I bought online that someone had tried to epoxy the cylinder arbor back in place. O.R.
I never understood keeping one chamber empty...why not just feel it up and just not put the cap on
I usually load six and cap all. But, I’m not in the field where there is more chance that the gun could have problems like being dropped. As a general rule, the hammer should not rest over a capped chamber when not pointed in a safe direction. Original guns mostly have small pegs between the chambers, and a notch in the hammer to rest on the peg. I believe the idea was to load to the max because that 6th shot might be needed. Especially as reloading might not be possible.
As to your question, not capping #6 would therefore not maximize fire power of the gun. Loading 5 is probably a safety strategy, especially with cartridge guns. Because there is a lot of hot gasses and flames next to the cap’s during firing, a nipple not capped might run the risk of the hot gas entering the uncapped nipple and firing the chamber which is not aligned with the barrel. Interesting and thoughtful question, hoping I answered some of it. O.R.
And keep your bore butter or lube out of the heat!!! When I was new to blackpowder I got to range & my lube was "liquid"!!
I live so damn far North that I wish that would happen. Yes, I can believe it. Set a piece on a shooting bench in the sun, and it can get THTHTH.
Used to say that a lot in baseball years ago when someone missed a hard hit grounder. Too Hot for Tit-Head To Handle. O.R.
Seriously so when you going to shoot it
Very accurate NOW...but the one brass frame I have, the arbor stripped out of the frame after very few shots
I'd never buy a brass frame BP revolver!
Is there a date code on the one with the issue? I have one that I purchased online that had the arbor epoxied and of corse it was junk. My neighbor has a brass frame that has been used quite a bit and still is ok. Would be interesting to know how many have had that problem, I’m sure there have been lots sold. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 yes ...it's an '81...Armi San paulo. Brass framed 1860 army model. After robbing parts ,about all thats left thats any good is the barrel,cylinder,and grip!
@@stevenbaker9327 Very interesting. Mine is AI, which is 1982 I believe. A 44 1851 Navy, and top of barrel is Armi San Paolo, same as yours. Hate to see the brass frames given a bad rap because of one company’s defects, if that is the case. Right. Parts are parts. Thanks for getting back on this. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 👍
I got a replica of a Rogers & Spencer cap and ball as a rather crude kit. All it says is made in Italy on the side of the BBL. I got the kit about 1980 in AZ. after finishing the kit and doing a little load development it would shoot a one inch group at 25 yds. until I lost the front sight . Thats when I found out that this company copied the original EXACTLY down to even the thread pitch. I cant find a front sight for it been looking for 35 yrs its a tiny screw in post found several screw in posts but they all have the WRONG THREADS ( had a gunsmith tell me they havent used that pitch for 100 yrs. !!!
Seems like I changed the front on a couple of 2n gen colts that had threads, but maybe I threaded them, been too long. Its interesting because some Italian companies use English and some Metric threads. I’d have a difficult time believing that it is a thread that is not one or the other. I’m betting on metric because of the difficulty of replicating an obsolete thread, just a guess. O.R.
I think the gun shot great. You just need to file the V notch deeper.
Problem. It's the brother's gun, and he's a whole lot bigger and younger, and he likes things left original. Pretty hard to disguise it as an accident. O.R.
Some people pay thousands of dollars to get a pistol that shoots like that….id get that cash to him fast, before he sees the video !!!
Think I screwed up. He left several, including this one, and traveled back to his home. That appeared better than paying fifty bucks. He returned this summer and took them back 😩. Figure he got his laptop fixed and found the channel. O.R.
Meanwhile during the loading and lubing, the Union Army has overrun the position and are on their way to Atlanta.....
This guy is the voice of robin williams
I only load 5 cylinders for safety because I'm incapable of knowing the safety features of the gun that I own and understanding that the hammer is made to fall between cylinders for carry configuration
I never use substitute black powder. They dirty the guns almost twice as much as real black powder... it’s a proven fact that you cannot over press the fake bp. You never get the same ratio for shots !🤗❤️🇺🇸
Thanks Steve. I seem to have had good luck with the Black MZ. I better hope so, because it appears that the "real stuff" could become difficult to find. O.R.
That doesn't sound too honest Lie,n to your brother..
I have never aimed thru sights to hit target 🎯
I just draw point barrel and shoot, in one movement.
I can hit a 4X4 post at 40 feet.
Most cases in self defense, nobody has time to aim..
So that is why I never use sights on pistols. Anyway sorry for giving my thoughts.
Your fan, keep making videos.
“Man’s got to make a living”. One reason I tend to stress the accuracy thing, is (or was) that I did some competition bullseye shooting with them at the national level. Those folks get pretty serious. There were no point shooting events at that time, and maybe still aren’t. I do understand your point (no pun intended). My brother (the other one) and I burned through thousands of 38 rounds point shooting in the 70’s and 80’s. Kept a couple of progressive machines pretty busy. Maybe should do a video about the few things I learned. O.R. PS keeping it within 4 inches at 40 ft is good shoot’in.
Sin ánimo de ofender, se nota que eres fanático de todo lo E.E.U.U., os aseguro que la industria italiana no tiene nada que envidiar a la norteamericana, incluso la supera en varios campos.
Señor: Está equivocado acerca de mis opiniones sobre las pistolas de pólvora de fabricación extranjera. Si lee mis respuestas a los comentarios, encontrará que tengo en alta estima a los fabricantes de estas armas.
Aquí hay un comentario típico en un video ”. “PIETTA HACE QUE UN GRAN TIRADOR MÁS PRECISO QUE MÁS
PISTOLAS. POLVO NEGRO A UN LADO ". Y mi respuesta: “Acuerde ambos. Los 44 de Uberti y Pietta están lejos de ser caros, pero mi experiencia en precisión con ellos y la bola redonda ha sido muy positiva. O."
Es muy posible que haya confundido, o no haya entendido el sarcasmo en algunos de los comentarios hechos en el video. Probablemente necesite estar en los EE. UU. Para comprender esa parte de nuestro idioma. No todos en los EE. UU. Sentimos que somos el único lugar que puede producir calidad. Como siempre, gracias por tu comentario. O.
OR. Ur crazy. Good way. No offense lol. 100$. Cause it’s junker. Lol. I think a rock in ur hand be target getter. Great video. We love um.
Stay safe from ur ole hillbilly buddy.
Figured he wouldn't do the deal, too used to his older bro pulling stuff. Was worth a try. Should have upped to $125. 😁
@@oldranger3044 see what I mean. Ur crazy. And I love it. Lol up the deal that’s funny.
Any u doing good everything ok.
Pretty much ok over here u know same ol same ol. Well u and urs keep safe. Keep them video’s rolling. We all love um. And also
Who was that masked man. lol 😂
Until next time, from ur ole hillbilly buddy. Good day.
After the first shot ALL the lube is gone,! Thats why I use wads!
My two cents on that is that I think there is still more left in the crevice between the barrel and ball then the side of the wad will supply. Anyway, as long as a method produces good results, that counts. O.R.
Did you ever purchase that gun from your brother 😂
No, but here's the good news. He left them here when he returned West for me to play with. O.R.
44 caliber should never have been called Navy!!!!!!!!!!!
It's crazy how many people cannot differentiate between "cylinder" and "chamber." Just sayin'.
Actually, chambers are cylinders too.
@@MatthewQuigley Agreed. But cylinders are not necessarily chambers... Happy New Year!
@@kbjerke Is a Hot Dog a kind of sandwich?
Happy New Year!
@@MatthewQuigley Now, *THERE'S* a wormhole I do not want to go down!! LOL! Wishing you all the best in the New Year!
Did you steal it off your brother for $100? Lol, yer rotten 😄
Nope... Better, He went back and left them in my care.
@@oldranger3044 nice!