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Replacing the front sight on a Pietta Spiller and Burr revolver
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- Опубліковано 18 сер 2024
- In this episode of Musket Matters we will take a look at how to replace the front sight post on a Pietta Spiller and Burr reproduction revolver.
GREAT VIDEO!!!! Used it as a 'go by' for replacing the front sight on a Traditions (Pietta) brass frame .44 "Navy"; I used a piece of 1/8" (.125") brass rod, tapered in my drill press and a file; I believe the 'correct size' is 11/64; press fit in and filed down at the range; "dead on @ 10 yards!!!
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!!!
Glad you liked it!
Good video I always just JB weld a good quality correct diameter steel nail, cut and file to sight in at 25 yards, a good steel nail won’t ever really get damaged and I have never had to replace a steel nail due to damage unlike brass.
It may work but to solder correctly the steel needs to be the heat draw for the solder. You may as well use an epoxy.
I made sure with my subsequent work like this that I heat the barrel rather than the sight. This way the barrel is the heat transfer mechanism. I have read in period they would insert a red-hot plug into the muzzle to do this so that the barrel was evenly heated so as not to "spring" the barrel.
Thank you for sharing this video and it has been a good help for me on making a front sight on my used 1851 Navy that someone or somehow it was missing the front sight. Thank you, good video
I am going to give this a try on my Spiller & Burr. Rod arrived today. Now to cut and mill it down.
Thanks. I will get started soon with my Spiller and Burr front sight replacement.
Nice!
Just a tip: A shotgun front bead with a 6-48 thread works better. Drill and tap a blind hole and install with loc-tite.
I wonder if a shotgun front bead would be tall enough? But, I like the idea of drilling and tapping. I could just thread some brass rod.
Using a shotgun front bead sight to make the front sight taller?
Great job!
Dang yankees never do give enough time for me to settle-in on those belt buckles.
That solder melted way too easily for it to have been even the lowest melting point (easy) silver solder.
I'm guessing the solder you were given was regular plumbing soft solder - which won't adhere to steel. This is why your sight fell out. I think a spot of JD Weld would be a better option as you need to get a lot of heat into the barrel as the whole gun acts as a heat sink and would mar your blueing.
I'm currently doing something similar with a stainless steel Pietta New Model Army and found the original sight wasn't staked in place but a tight interference fit with a splodge of some sort of adhesive on the bottom.
Barnaby Wild I have the same gun that arrived today, the front sight blade on mine is bent to the left. Did you end up removing the original sight and JB weld the brass rod?
@@Kcrunchymunch I went another way. Reamed out the top of the deformed opening of the hole (where it's been staked in place) back to the same as the lower part of the hole. Then used an interference fit diameter brass rod, polished it with fine wire wool, cleaned the hole and rod, with solvent, put a fine smear of Loctite on the bottom of the rod and then pressed it into place with a small hobby vice (protect the barrel to stop it getting marked).
@@barnabywild2215 wow excellent! I called Taylor, the company that imports them from Pietta. They told me to box it up and they emailed me a UPS label. Mine has a dovetail cut out. On closer inspection it wasn't bent, the right side was higher than the left, either the dovetail hole was cut uneven or the sight is higher on the right.
Well done! Since the sight has enough height, I wonder if it can be slightly bent one way or another to adjust for windage? Or when the sight is filed, can it be done on only one side to adjust for windage?
I'd be afraid to try and bend it, but what I typically do is file the site to one side or the other as needed to adjust for windage.
The only proper way to bend brass without fracturing the metal has to heat it up first. Which obviously isn't going to work when it's soldered in place. Your best bet would be to dovetail the barrel and make a dovetail sight. Lot of filing but well worth it.
I have a lathe so I'm going to chuck some bar stock in it a spin it to post at the bottom ..then file it to a blade.. I'm not worried about group regulations . It'll look sharp when I'm done
Could you have just fluxed the post and hole, then dropped a small bit of solder in the hole? Then heated the post? Might make for a cleaner solder joint.
Thanks!
It is easier on the holster if you adjust the other end
I see that this video is a few years old? I read the comments and I am curious as how it did in the end, are you pleased..? I am about to get a second hand Spiller & Burr and I already have plans to change out the front sight, I got a front sight for the Roger & Spencer at hand I belief tit will fit with minor adjustments.
No, I was never ever able to get a good group out of it. I even tried doing an 11 degree forcing cone job on it and I think it shot worse afterwards. It is a nice historical reproduction to add to a collection but it is not, in my view, a competition-worthy gun. My friend who also has one has had similar results.
@@musketmatters2004 I will change out the front sight and krone the muzzle, I`ve not decided yet if it will get a defarb job done to it.
Just picked up an Uberti 1851 navy London for my 26th b day and ordered the skelital stock from cimarron for it so I have quite some work to get her together the way I want it how bad do ubertis tend to be in this field? I want it to be sort of a carbine tack driver even though that seems like a long shot lol but I'm willing to do the work it takes
Greetings from Russia! Nice video
Where is the range test with the new sight?
Did some load workups last weekend in fact. However, I blew the front sight off! I have since replaced it with a tighter press fit into the existing hole. I will have a new video coming up soon on doing a load workup with it.
@@stevensheldon9271 Are you the original poster of this video?
Was your front sight soldered in and if so how did it get blown off? If you did solder the post in, did you use soft solder or silver solder?
@@toddy2519 The sight was soldered as you see in the video. The solder was "silver solder" from Home Depot. I don't think it has any actual silver in it.
If I sent you my 51 colt barrel would you fix my sight ? It's completely gone
Don't happen to know where to get a replacement(preferably lighter) main spring for a rogers and Spencer reproduction, do you?
They have been out of production for some years, as Euroarms went out of business. At least some of their tooling was bought by Pedersoli, so there is some hope that Pedersoli could re-introduce it in the future. But for now, parts are pretty hard to come by. I would try and find a gunmaker who can make replacement springs from scratch. Maybe these folks can make one? www.gunsprings.com/
Silver solder or soft solder?
I went to Home Depot and bought their "silver solder". I don't know if it is actually "silver" solder.
Steven did you ever complete this project and if so was it successful?
Yes and yes.
Wouldn't it just be easier to cut off a small piece of solder and stick it down into the hole?
this is all? no finished work???
I don't understand. Finished pictures are shown at the end of the video.
Why do you need to do this? Do parts regularly fall off this manufacture's work? Are these Chinese? I think you are repairing a display piece not an actual copy, in your case "Replica" is a looking gun. Don't shoot this!
Just about all replica percussion revolvers today are made by two companies in Italy: Uberti and Pietta. This gun is made by Pietta. Both Uberti and Pietta generally made fine quality replica firearms, especially considering the price point of around $300. However, like the original guns they copied, most of them were not designed to be shot as target pistols at 25 yards. So, when you shoot most of these kinds of firearms at 25 yards, they tend to shoot about 7" high. So, many shooters, like myself, that shoot them in N-SSA competition, want them to be able to shoot point-of-aim at 25 and 50 yards. To do this you will need a taller front sight. Many competition shooters will install a dovetailed front sight that can be adjusted for windage also.
@@musketmatters2004 I had the Uberti in 357 mag. all kinds of parts fell off, front blade sight and cylinder sleeve broke loose jamming the rotation intermittently. After some quick brazing I ditched it in a pawn shop for the first thin in the case. A 25 acp. Uberti SHOULD NOT make firearms! Maby brass doorknobs, nothing else.
@@planker Unfortunately, there aren't many choices for reproduction percussion revolvers. Uberti and Pietta are the main players. Pedersoli sometimes does runs of the Remington New Model Army. I had hopes of getting Remington to do a re-issue of the New Model Army but they went bankrupt before we could get the ball rolling.
What a load of garbage! That front sight is ridiculous. You ruined the gun.
I shoot in N-SSA competition. Revolver competitions are at 25 and 50 yards. In order to consistently hit a 4" circle, you really need a sight that lets you hit point-of-aim. It's been some years since I made this video, so I don't remember exactly how high it shot, but it was probably 7"-8" high. So, a taller front sight post was required for the kind of shooting I wanted to use it for. Unfortunately, the gun never did group well with any load I tested, so I don't use it in competition. It's of course trivial to return the front sight to its original configuration.