Is necessary to drop the valve body to replace the EPC? I've got the pan off now looking it over, looks like it might be possible to not drop the valve body, but definitely not sure. This is my first time working inside the transmission, gotta get this EPC replaced though. 2000 5.4 w/ 4r70w same as yours.
No you don’t have to remove the valve body just be cautious with the plastic connector that runs to all of the solenoids it’s very fragile but other than that the valve body is not anything to be worried about removing it is all sealed up so there are not going to be any surprises in the way of tiny parts falling out just make sure you have a clear work surface if you need to take the valve body apart and don’t loose any of the 8 little check balls I actually had some ball bearings that I have been saving for the kids and I replaced the plastic ones with the steel ones and they work great ford wanted 50 bucks for the plastic ones the steel ones are hard on the valve body but by the time they do damage I will have had to replace the transmission anyway
@@DrivingIntelligence how exactly to remove the pressure control solenoid. Although, now I have a leak, possibly from the seal behind the neutral safety switch, hopefully it’s external. Have to check the vehicle tomorrow, could be those crappy rubber pan gaskets. Regardless, popped in the solenoid, and bam!! No more issues And yes, I blocked the tires, and it definitely popped out of park, and scared the Begeezus out of me. :)
Im getting a P0750 code on my 97 thunderbird, flashing O/D light and won't shift up, code reads Shift Solenoid A malfunction, can you show what that solenoid exactly looks like? I read it'd supposedly within the valve body of the transmission
Good question, I just had this problem. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/O9Rxch3zHHM/v-deo.htmlsi=fVlsxyliMmFopV-9 I also have a long playlist of 4R70W transmission videos: ua-cam.com/play/PLGNsbVXzRfZM6WpCF862q4DlkyatzFIMz.html&si=q7y4sVdsdR81htln
From my research, it appears P0748 is given when there is a problem with the Mechatronic unit. And P0960 is a symptom of P0748. This could be metal contamination that could be cleaned by removing the mechatronic unit and cleaning the solenoid terminals. If that doesn't work, you might need to replace the mechatronic unit and have it reprogrammed to work in your vehicle.
???? could this be bad on mine 08 f150 4spd 5.4 on certain sharp turns light throttle it goes into neutral for 2 seconds then goes back into gear. I do the same turn wit almost full throttle no issues. two years I had it flushed they said don't worry it that it will be ok. this weekend I changed fluid n filter. checked made sure I got the o ring for filter came out with filter put new one in all ford products. drove good n changed gears good until I got to the same sharp turns. like it starving for fluid but the dip stick is dead on. any suggestions.
Thanks for checking in. Do you have any diagnostic trouble codes or a check engine light? That's a tough one... the only thing that comes to mind is that under light throttle and in a sharp turn, you are working the differential pretty hard without load on the transmission. Also, might have something to do with wheel speed sensors, BUT THIS IS A PURE GUESS! I'd need more info to help... sorry!
Hello I know its been years but i get P1000 On board dianostic readiness, P1747 - EPC solenoid short circuit, P0755 - Shift Solenoid B, P1760- EPC Solenoid Short circuit codes could it be a bad tranny or just the EPC solenoid
Hi there, it looks like you have a bad EPC solenoid. The P1000 means you cleared codes very recently. I assume you cleared the codes recently and they came back immediately. Try the EPC solenoid first to see if that resolves your problem. Then go from there. Could be the bad EPC is causing problems with your shift solenoids.
I did a little more research and want to add one item. Check your owner's manual to see which fuses support your transmission and EPC solenoid. Make sure the fuse is not blown before replacing parts.
I just did my 2008 f150 and all I did is loose the nut I think is a 17 mm not take it all out. Remove the small pin and that will give you enough room to remove and replace the selenoid.
Looks like I’ve got it ready to pull out without dropping the valve body. Does it just pull straight out? It doesn’t seem to want to come out but I don’t see anything fastening it to its location. I think it just has a couple O-rings that seat it?
The EPC should pull straight out once you get the shift arm out of the way as I demonstrated in the video. Of course, be cautious of the parking brake rod. Let me know how it goes.
Ok great thanks for the reply. I don’t think the videos show the actual EPC coming out but I will keep trying (pulling and wiggling with channel locks, prying at it). Thanks again.
@@robertjohnsonii1765 stop the presses! I reviewed your comments and my material. There is a clip that holds the EPC solenoid in the case. The clip shares a bolt with the valve body. I just made a video I will post shortly. Don't want you to break anything... you should not have to use channel locks.
Wow thanks so much for posting an additional video. I wish I could post picture comments of my destroyed old EPC lol. I didn’t damage anything else but that 4b video is exactly what I needed. I’m going to email you a short video of what I think super newb transmission guys might find helpful for the EPC replacement process, mostly related to the linkages and emphasizing you don’t have to drop the valve body. Feel free to crop it in as some bonus content.
I know I’m roughly a year late but got a good dumb question for ya, could a new e-brake cable being adjusted to much or to loosely be an issue? My truck hauls backwards or in R but 1st gear thru over drive is nothing.
That could definitely be the problem. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and with the truck in neutral, try to spin the wheels (make sure to chock the front wheels first!)
@@DrivingIntelligence did a fast code check, showed speed sensor and also throttle position sensor. Did get to forwards but it too about 4 to 5 minutes and once it finally went in gear i was able to drive it around the yard, when placed in reverse and back in gear it took some time to back in drive
I just performed this solenoid replacement and my Crown Vic shifted like butter until it warmed up. Turns out I ALSO have a burned out transmission cooler bypass thermostat. I've ordered a huge external cooler to solve the problem, but I'm also going to take apart the thermostat to see if I can engineer a bypass delete, then maybe I can also keep the stock system running if I want to.
nice diagnosis, Superior Transmission Products Makes a by-pass kit: superiortransmission.com/product/superior-stl017/ What year is your Crown Vic? Make sure I selected the correct by-pass kit.
There are a few possibilities. First, you can try to use a screw to insert into the pin and gently turn it to grab the roll-pin and spin it out. Second, you can load some grease into the pin, pack it full, then find a pin that fits inside the roll pin, tap on the pin and the hydraulic pressure will push the pin out. Lastly, you can drill out the pin, but you will need an oversized pin if you catch the transmission case. Let me know how it turns out!
IT has been a while, but I believe I used a sharp headed screw inserted into the roll-pin and screwed it out. Use some penetrating oil. Let me know if that works.
Is necessary to drop the valve body to replace the EPC? I've got the pan off now looking it over, looks like it might be possible to not drop the valve body, but definitely not sure. This is my first time working inside the transmission, gotta get this EPC replaced though. 2000 5.4 w/ 4r70w same as yours.
No you don’t have to remove the valve body just be cautious with the plastic connector that runs to all of the solenoids it’s very fragile but other than that the valve body is not anything to be worried about removing it is all sealed up so there are not going to be any surprises in the way of tiny parts falling out just make sure you have a clear work surface if you need to take the valve body apart and don’t loose any of the 8 little check balls I actually had some ball bearings that I have been saving for the kids and I replaced the plastic ones with the steel ones and they work great ford wanted 50 bucks for the plastic ones the steel ones are hard on the valve body but by the time they do damage I will have had to replace the transmission anyway
amzn.to/3tzPfZJ
Man I don't know how but you hit the nail on the head, the first video I clicked on. Thank you for your help. Much appreciated.
Glad it helped!
Best safety video on shift solenoid ☆☆☆
Thank you! Please subscribe!
Thank you, that was the answer I was looking for..
Glad to hear it helped! What was your question?
@@DrivingIntelligence how exactly to remove the pressure control solenoid. Although, now I have a leak, possibly from the seal behind the neutral safety switch, hopefully it’s external. Have to check the vehicle tomorrow, could be those crappy rubber pan gaskets. Regardless, popped in the solenoid, and bam!! No more issues
And yes, I blocked the tires, and it definitely popped out of park, and scared the Begeezus out of me. :)
@@MechanicalTriage amen!
Im getting a P0750 code on my 97 thunderbird, flashing O/D light and won't shift up, code reads Shift Solenoid A malfunction, can you show what that solenoid exactly looks like? I read it'd supposedly within the valve body of the transmission
Good question, I just had this problem. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/O9Rxch3zHHM/v-deo.htmlsi=fVlsxyliMmFopV-9 I also have a long playlist of 4R70W transmission videos: ua-cam.com/play/PLGNsbVXzRfZM6WpCF862q4DlkyatzFIMz.html&si=q7y4sVdsdR81htln
Im gettin code P0748 and P0960 on a 2006 f150
From my research, it appears P0748 is given when there is a problem with the Mechatronic unit. And P0960 is a symptom of P0748. This could be metal contamination that could be cleaned by removing the mechatronic unit and cleaning the solenoid terminals. If that doesn't work, you might need to replace the mechatronic unit and have it reprogrammed to work in your vehicle.
@@DrivingIntelligence thank you appreciate your help sir
@@Bigbeardedpothead420 very welcome, keep in touch and let me know how it turns out.
@@DrivingIntelligence I'm going to take it to a trans guy I don't do trans myself lol 😂
Trans can be fun! Not literally 😉
???? could this be bad on mine 08 f150 4spd 5.4 on certain sharp turns light throttle it goes into neutral for 2 seconds then goes back into gear. I do the same turn wit almost full throttle no issues. two years I had it flushed they said don't worry it that it will be ok. this weekend I changed fluid n filter. checked made sure I got the o ring for filter came out with filter put new one in all ford products. drove good n changed gears good until I got to the same sharp turns. like it starving for fluid but the dip stick is dead on. any suggestions.
Thanks for checking in. Do you have any diagnostic trouble codes or a check engine light? That's a tough one... the only thing that comes to mind is that under light throttle and in a sharp turn, you are working the differential pretty hard without load on the transmission. Also, might have something to do with wheel speed sensors, BUT THIS IS A PURE GUESS! I'd need more info to help... sorry!
No codes. I talked to a trans guy and he even says it’s weird. Just my luck lol
Hello I know its been years but i get P1000 On board dianostic readiness, P1747 - EPC solenoid short circuit, P0755 - Shift Solenoid B, P1760- EPC Solenoid Short circuit codes could it be a bad tranny or just the EPC solenoid
Hi there, it looks like you have a bad EPC solenoid. The P1000 means you cleared codes very recently. I assume you cleared the codes recently and they came back immediately. Try the EPC solenoid first to see if that resolves your problem. Then go from there. Could be the bad EPC is causing problems with your shift solenoids.
I did a little more research and want to add one item. Check your owner's manual to see which fuses support your transmission and EPC solenoid. Make sure the fuse is not blown before replacing parts.
I just did my 2008 f150 and all I did is loose the nut I think is a 17 mm not take it all out. Remove the small pin and that will give you enough room to remove and replace the selenoid.
That’s what I describe in the video, thanks for watching and commenting.
Looks like I’ve got it ready to pull out without dropping the valve body. Does it just pull straight out? It doesn’t seem to want to come out but I don’t see anything fastening it to its location. I think it just has a couple O-rings that seat it?
The EPC should pull straight out once you get the shift arm out of the way as I demonstrated in the video. Of course, be cautious of the parking brake rod. Let me know how it goes.
Ok great thanks for the reply. I don’t think the videos show the actual EPC coming out but I will keep trying (pulling and wiggling with channel locks, prying at it). Thanks again.
@@robertjohnsonii1765 stop the presses! I reviewed your comments and my material. There is a clip that holds the EPC solenoid in the case. The clip shares a bolt with the valve body. I just made a video I will post shortly. Don't want you to break anything... you should not have to use channel locks.
ua-cam.com/video/XEm5wY8oZVE/v-deo.html
Wow thanks so much for posting an additional video. I wish I could post picture comments of my destroyed old EPC lol. I didn’t damage anything else but that 4b video is exactly what I needed. I’m going to email you a short video of what I think super newb transmission guys might find helpful for the EPC replacement process, mostly related to the linkages and emphasizing you don’t have to drop the valve body. Feel free to crop it in as some bonus content.
I know I’m roughly a year late but got a good dumb question for ya, could a new e-brake cable being adjusted to much or to loosely be an issue? My truck hauls backwards or in R but 1st gear thru over drive is nothing.
That could definitely be the problem. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and with the truck in neutral, try to spin the wheels (make sure to chock the front wheels first!)
@@DrivingIntelligence yes sir I will try that either today or this weekend. Thank you sir!
@@stevenlucas7930 Excellent, let me know what you find out
@@DrivingIntelligence yes sir will do!
@@DrivingIntelligence did a fast code check, showed speed sensor and also throttle position sensor. Did get to forwards but it too about 4 to 5 minutes and once it finally went in gear i was able to drive it around the yard, when placed in reverse and back in gear it took some time to back in drive
Can barely hear you
sorry, one of my first videos when I began this channel. Working on improving video and sound quality.
I just performed this solenoid replacement and my Crown Vic shifted like butter until it warmed up. Turns out I ALSO have a burned out transmission cooler bypass thermostat. I've ordered a huge external cooler to solve the problem, but I'm also going to take apart the thermostat to see if I can engineer a bypass delete, then maybe I can also keep the stock system running if I want to.
nice diagnosis, Superior Transmission Products Makes a by-pass kit: superiortransmission.com/product/superior-stl017/ What year is your Crown Vic? Make sure I selected the correct by-pass kit.
i got everything else my roll pin is broke off to short any comments on what to do
There are a few possibilities. First, you can try to use a screw to insert into the pin and gently turn it to grab the roll-pin and spin it out. Second, you can load some grease into the pin, pack it full, then find a pin that fits inside the roll pin, tap on the pin and the hydraulic pressure will push the pin out. Lastly, you can drill out the pin, but you will need an oversized pin if you catch the transmission case. Let me know how it turns out!
How do you get the roll pin out?
IT has been a while, but I believe I used a sharp headed screw inserted into the roll-pin and screwed it out. Use some penetrating oil. Let me know if that works.
Does anyone know where the solenoid A is?
Solenoid A? I don’t think I’ve heard of that. What is your issue?
“Parking brake rod”. It’s not a brake but ok. More correctly it’s a mechanical park lock rod or linkage. The park brake is something different.
Thanks, but does that change the safety aspect of my video? Don't think so...