Hi Everybody! And here is my hardwire installation video ua-cam.com/video/uZp95NbNlmM/v-deo.html and here is my video on how to install Fuse Taps ua-cam.com/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/v-deo.html Hope this helps, Cheers!
Hi John! Here is my hardwire video ua-cam.com/video/uZp95NbNlmM/v-deo.html the only difference is that the connections would be made in the trunk (assuming there is not another fuse box on the car, most have multiple boxes) Cheers!
Thanks! That’s a great video and it’s very useful for sure! I think you’ve done this a lot! I learned a lot. My only concern is that Im not sure what the extra length cables must be for hardwire kit to reach from the rear of the car in the trunk, which is where the only fuse box is on the BMW, all the way to the front camera. In that video that installation is for Japanese car, which I believe the fuse box is actually under the hood next to the engine.
You're welcome John and thank you! Ah yes in cases where the hardwire kit wires do not reach their connection point, they could be extended by the installer. This could be done via splicing (using crimping or soldering). Here is my video on how I splice wires ua-cam.com/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/v-deo.html skip to the 2:00 min mark and I have a soldering video coming up as well, stay tuned. Cheers!
Hi Alex, I managed to purchase the Thinkware U3000 (front and rear cam). Haven't installed it though as im looking to buy a battery pack for parking mode too. If I were to ask you which battery pack is better - the ivolt Xtra, ivolt Mini or the Powercell 8, which one would you recommend for the U3000? I was speaking to the Thinkware rep yesterday and he told me that they do not have the powercell 8 - Only the ivolt Xtra and ivolt Mini. He said the ivolt Xtra could only be connected via the hardwire kit and fuse box whereas the ivolt Mini can be connected via the 12V cigarette lighter which does not require a fuse tap and fuse box connection. Simply just plug and play. I really like this plug and play method as I prefer not to go into the fuse box. But with the ivolt Mini, its a tradeoff between the number of extra hours, no usb port connection, no app and no further battery connection provision if required in future. So not sure why they do not have a cigarette lighter connection for the ivolt Xtra. Anyways, does the Powercell8 have a 12V cigarette lighter connection? If yes, would I need to purchase any additional wires etc for connecting with the U3000? Will the Powercell 8 battery be suitable for the U3000 front and rear dash cam and will the cigarette lighter be OK to draw the 12v current to ensure the powercell8 battery is fully charged as well as the original car battery is not compromised in any way with the cigarette lighter connection? By the way, my car cigarette lighter will go off once the car is switched off. It only works when the car is on. So my understanding is that (in case I go for either the powercell 8 or the ivolt Mini with the cigaratte lighter connection) the battery will be charged during the drive for let's say 40 to 45 minutes, then the parking mode feature will automatically turn on when the car is switched off - isn't that so? Do I still need a Thinkware hardwire kit then? Any other specific wiring or kit I need to comnect my U3000 with the cigaratte lighter and battery (Powercell8 or ivolt Mini) as I'm trying to avoid connecting onto the fuse box... Please advise, thanks!
Hi Terence! Ah I have not tested any of those packs so I can't comment on their performance but yes some people do run their dash cams off a battery pack. However I prefer a normal cigarette lighter adapter or standard hardwire kit since here in California we experience really hot temperatures which I would not want to subject the battery to, that and the potential for a run away event (fire) during charging or discharging inside the car. Here is an example of a internal dash cam battery and what the sun did to it ua-cam.com/video/HW8jqbl_ayU/v-deo.html and a video of battery related fire I personally experienced ua-cam.com/video/XfWgJ8nu-RA/v-deo.html (destroyed the house) Cheers!
Hi Olivier! the amperage rating is determined by the model of Thinkware dash cam you are planning to use (they have several dash cams to choose from). Here is my other video where I go over power consumption ua-cam.com/video/Yky9_tTvwMc/v-deo.html and other important hardwire kit details. Hope this helps!
Hi Anthony! Correct, they do have one (I placed a link to in the video description) Here is how those adapters work ua-cam.com/video/aV5jQovoaCI/v-deo.html Hope this helps, Cheers!
Hi Alex, again. You referred me to this video and I'm still confused. My hardware kit is a little like this Thinkware one. It has the 2A fuse but is different in that it already has the wire with a single tap at the end with an inbuilt blue fuse i cannot remove. I'm guessing the blue fuse is 15A. Question is, acknowledging everything about non critical components, do i then need to locate and only use an existing 15A car fuse slot to replace it with? ie. Remove existing 15A fuse and put away for safe keeping, replace slot with hardware kit fuse. Done? If so, why do you suggest to buy tap kits that allow two fuses (existing and dash cams) to be placed in?
Hi Lees! Ah yes sounds like you hardwire looks like this one ua-cam.com/video/XwFE16Hcjko/v-deo.html (video also covers how I used that hardwire kit). Regarding fuse taps, here is my video where I cover when Fuse Taps are needed in great detail ua-cam.com/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/v-deo.html Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun amazing, you have a video for everything! So, according to your video, are you saying that, if there is no empty slot, I cannot use the existing inbuilt fuse on these hardwire kits? Speaking with the manufacturer, they seem to think it's okay. The blue inbuilt fuse replaces the current fuse load and the 2A cartridge fuse takes care of the dash cam. Thoughts? Thanks again!
@@Lee-xt5wi Hi Lee! Ah don't let the inline fuse confuse you. The molded fuse at the end is the reason why I can't connect 2 fuses into one spot (when required). The inline fuse is a separate deal. Now if you want to consider the inline fuse as amperage that is a different deal. Say for example your molded fuses are 15A and the inline fuse is only rated at 2A, this means that the inline fuse will blow first when 2A are exceeded. Notice again this does not have anything to do with installing 2 fuses into 1 fuse spot, this is related to Amp capacity. I actually have another video in the works where I explain amperage, fuses, molded fuses, and fuse taps in more detail (3 very different things), stay tuned. Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun thanks. Another question. For the ACC wire placement, I tested an ACC fuse slot with a multimeter. When the ignition is turned off, it dropped to a residual 3v for 20 minutes. Then dropped to zero. That's fine. But all tutorials suggest choosing a slot that drops to zero volts immediately when ignition is turned off. I realise I have "ignition" fuse slots, like the reverse lights, that do drop to zero immediately when the ignition is turned off. Should I use the ACC slot with the delay or the IGNITION slot?
@@Lee-xt5wi Hi Lee! Yes I prefer to use spots that turn off without delay as this could issues (some vehicles can control individual circuits to power on or off even when the vehicle is on, a delay in shutdown could be an indicator of such circuit). The other reason I avoid circuits that do not turn off completely is that residual voltages is sometimes not a residual but instead could be a PWM signal or CANBUS both of which I try to avoid when hardwiring (but I would imagine each installer has their own preferences). Cheers!
Hi Chris! I would recommend to have the installer check all the connections, I seen this happen when ACC and BATT are switched or are connected to the incorrect location. I would also check the low voltage cut off setting on the Thinkware Dash Cam, it may be set to a very low level (an aggressive on the car's battery) letting the kit stay on longer leading to depleted battery, a higher voltage cut off (more conservative) may be needed. Hope this helps, Cheers!
Hi Swol eousis! sounds like the hardwire kit may have been incorrectly installed (wires reversed, ACC going BATT and BATT going to ACC could cause the condition you are describing) I would recommend taking it back to your installer to confirm the installation and the dash cam settings. Hope this helps, Cheers!
I install it myself. I order from Amazon and the red one said ACC and yellow BAT+. I reverse it and my camera just keeping turning on and off. It won’t stay on record
@@swoleousis9215 Hi Swol eousis! I'm assuming you bought the kit shown in the video? if so I would recommend contacting Thinkware for support, they may be able to walk you thru the troubleshooting process and determine if the issue is with the dash cam or with the hardwire kit. Hope this helps, Cheers!
@@swoleousis9215 Hi Swol eousis! correct, a dash cam should record when the car is on and when the car is off the dash cam should turn off or it should enter parking mode. To enter parking mode most dash cams require: Matching hardwire kit, enabling parking mode in the settings, and in some cases also specifing the type of park mode desired, such as Time lapse, G-sensor, Motion Detection. Hope this makes sense, Cheers!
Hi RaYze! It uses a standard glass fuses (they come already installed inside each black plastic holder) The fuse holder opens as explained at the 1:19 mark. If I remember correctly its 2A fuse (F2AL250V) however the fuse itself is marked with a model number on the bottom in case I'm incorrect. Hope this helps, Cheers1
Hi Everybody! And here is my hardwire installation video ua-cam.com/video/uZp95NbNlmM/v-deo.html and here is my video on how to install Fuse Taps ua-cam.com/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/v-deo.html Hope this helps, Cheers!
This video has helped me tremendously. I love you.
Glad to hear it helped southnyourmind! and thanks for the love my friend!
Such a great video. Thank you!!
@@johnnycontreras5417 You're welcome Johnny and thank you!
What about for installation on a 2024 bmw M2? In case the fuse box is in the trunk.
Hi John! Here is my hardwire video ua-cam.com/video/uZp95NbNlmM/v-deo.html the only difference is that the connections would be made in the trunk (assuming there is not another fuse box on the car, most have multiple boxes) Cheers!
Thanks! That’s a great video and it’s very useful for sure! I think you’ve done this a lot! I learned a lot. My only concern is that Im not sure what the extra length cables must be for hardwire kit to reach from the rear of the car in the trunk, which is where the only fuse box is on the BMW, all the way to the front camera. In that video that installation is for Japanese car, which I believe the fuse box is actually under the hood next to the engine.
You're welcome John and thank you! Ah yes in cases where the hardwire kit wires do not reach their connection point, they could be extended by the installer. This could be done via splicing (using crimping or soldering). Here is my video on how I splice wires ua-cam.com/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/v-deo.html skip to the 2:00 min mark and I have a soldering video coming up as well, stay tuned. Cheers!
So well explained mate. Thank you very much & double thumbs up👍👍
Thanks Chris!
Excellent tutorial . Thank you and keep up the good work.
Thank you Saul, Cheers!
Hi Alex, I managed to purchase the Thinkware U3000 (front and rear cam). Haven't installed it though as im looking to buy a battery pack for parking mode too. If I were to ask you which battery pack is better - the ivolt Xtra, ivolt Mini or the Powercell 8, which one would you recommend for the U3000?
I was speaking to the Thinkware rep yesterday and he told me that they do not have the powercell 8 - Only the ivolt Xtra and ivolt Mini. He said the ivolt Xtra could only be connected via the hardwire kit and fuse box whereas the ivolt Mini can be connected via the 12V cigarette lighter which does not require a fuse tap and fuse box connection. Simply just plug and play. I really like this plug and play method as I prefer not to go into the fuse box. But with the ivolt Mini, its a tradeoff between the number of extra hours, no usb port connection, no app and no further battery connection provision if required in future. So not sure why they do not have a cigarette lighter connection for the ivolt Xtra.
Anyways, does the Powercell8 have a 12V cigarette lighter connection? If yes, would I need to purchase any additional wires etc for connecting with the U3000? Will the Powercell 8 battery be suitable for the U3000 front and rear dash cam and will the cigarette lighter be OK to draw the 12v current to ensure the powercell8 battery is fully charged as well as the original car battery is not compromised in any way with the cigarette lighter connection?
By the way, my car cigarette lighter will go off once the car is switched off. It only works when the car is on. So my understanding is that (in case I go for either the powercell 8 or the ivolt Mini with the cigaratte lighter connection) the battery will be charged during the drive for let's say 40 to 45 minutes, then the parking mode feature will automatically turn on when the car is switched off - isn't that so? Do I still need a Thinkware hardwire kit then? Any other specific wiring or kit I need to comnect my U3000 with the cigaratte lighter and battery (Powercell8 or ivolt Mini) as I'm trying to avoid connecting onto the fuse box...
Please advise, thanks!
Hi Terence! Ah I have not tested any of those packs so I can't comment on their performance but yes some people do run their dash cams off a battery pack. However I prefer a normal cigarette lighter adapter or standard hardwire kit since here in California we experience really hot temperatures which I would not want to subject the battery to, that and the potential for a run away event (fire) during charging or discharging inside the car. Here is an example of a internal dash cam battery and what the sun did to it ua-cam.com/video/HW8jqbl_ayU/v-deo.html and a video of battery related fire I personally experienced ua-cam.com/video/XfWgJ8nu-RA/v-deo.html (destroyed the house) Cheers!
Great video, help me a lot, thanks 👍
Thanks Juan, glad to hear it helped, Cheers!
What amp is required ?
Hi Olivier! the amperage rating is determined by the model of Thinkware dash cam you are planning to use (they have several dash cams to choose from). Here is my other video where I go over power consumption ua-cam.com/video/Yky9_tTvwMc/v-deo.html and other important hardwire kit details. Hope this helps!
thinkware now has a OBD-II based hardwire kit . can you review that too ? how it creates VCC and ACC voltages from OBD-II connector ?
Hi Anthony! Correct, they do have one (I placed a link to in the video description) Here is how those adapters work ua-cam.com/video/aV5jQovoaCI/v-deo.html Hope this helps, Cheers!
Hi Alex, again. You referred me to this video and I'm still confused. My hardware kit is a little like this Thinkware one. It has the 2A fuse but is different in that it already has the wire with a single tap at the end with an inbuilt blue fuse i cannot remove.
I'm guessing the blue fuse is 15A.
Question is, acknowledging everything about non critical components, do i then need to locate and only use an existing 15A car fuse slot to replace it with? ie. Remove existing 15A fuse and put away for safe keeping, replace slot with hardware kit fuse. Done?
If so, why do you suggest to buy tap kits that allow two fuses (existing and dash cams) to be placed in?
Hi Lees! Ah yes sounds like you hardwire looks like this one ua-cam.com/video/XwFE16Hcjko/v-deo.html (video also covers how I used that hardwire kit). Regarding fuse taps, here is my video where I cover when Fuse Taps are needed in great detail ua-cam.com/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/v-deo.html Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun amazing, you have a video for everything!
So, according to your video, are you saying that, if there is no empty slot, I cannot use the existing inbuilt fuse on these hardwire kits?
Speaking with the manufacturer, they seem to think it's okay. The blue inbuilt fuse replaces the current fuse load and the 2A cartridge fuse takes care of the dash cam.
Thoughts? Thanks again!
@@Lee-xt5wi Hi Lee! Ah don't let the inline fuse confuse you. The molded fuse at the end is the reason why I can't connect 2 fuses into one spot (when required). The inline fuse is a separate deal. Now if you want to consider the inline fuse as amperage that is a different deal. Say for example your molded fuses are 15A and the inline fuse is only rated at 2A, this means that the inline fuse will blow first when 2A are exceeded. Notice again this does not have anything to do with installing 2 fuses into 1 fuse spot, this is related to Amp capacity. I actually have another video in the works where I explain amperage, fuses, molded fuses, and fuse taps in more detail (3 very different things), stay tuned. Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun thanks.
Another question. For the ACC wire placement, I tested an ACC fuse slot with a multimeter. When the ignition is turned off, it dropped to a residual 3v for 20 minutes. Then dropped to zero. That's fine.
But all tutorials suggest choosing a slot that drops to zero volts immediately when ignition is turned off.
I realise I have "ignition" fuse slots, like the reverse lights, that do drop to zero immediately when the ignition is turned off.
Should I use the ACC slot with the delay or the IGNITION slot?
@@Lee-xt5wi Hi Lee! Yes I prefer to use spots that turn off without delay as this could issues (some vehicles can control individual circuits to power on or off even when the vehicle is on, a delay in shutdown could be an indicator of such circuit). The other reason I avoid circuits that do not turn off completely is that residual voltages is sometimes not a residual but instead could be a PWM signal or CANBUS both of which I try to avoid when hardwiring (but I would imagine each installer has their own preferences). Cheers!
So how do you use the fuses with the CLEAR WHITE ends?? Do you need a special crimper??
Hi Shark Bait! here is the video showing that process ua-cam.com/video/Qzw9yUYN7zo/v-deo.html Hope this helps, Cheers!
Ok which way does the two plug into the fuse box
Hi! Here you go ua-cam.com/video/K2iKXj82354/v-deo.html Cheers!
Thanks
Do you have to connect both yellow and red?
Hi XxgiuseppexX1999! correct, as explained on the video both connections must be made in order for the hardwire kit to work. Hope this helps, Cheers!
Very detailed video thank you
You're welcome jaspreet! Glad it was helpful, and thank you for watching bud!
I do it that way but is killing my battery , I want to take it out I need help
Hi Chris! I would recommend to have the installer check all the connections, I seen this happen when ACC and BATT are switched or are connected to the incorrect location. I would also check the low voltage cut off setting on the Thinkware Dash Cam, it may be set to a very low level (an aggressive on the car's battery) letting the kit stay on longer leading to depleted battery, a higher voltage cut off (more conservative) may be needed. Hope this helps, Cheers!
My camera doesn’t record when the car is turn on and it only record when it’s off. Am I doing anything wrong?
Hi Swol eousis! sounds like the hardwire kit may have been incorrectly installed (wires reversed, ACC going BATT and BATT going to ACC could cause the condition you are describing) I would recommend taking it back to your installer to confirm the installation and the dash cam settings. Hope this helps, Cheers!
I install it myself. I order from Amazon and the red one said ACC and yellow BAT+. I reverse it and my camera just keeping turning on and off. It won’t stay on record
@@swoleousis9215 Hi Swol eousis! I'm assuming you bought the kit shown in the video? if so I would recommend contacting Thinkware for support, they may be able to walk you thru the troubleshooting process and determine if the issue is with the dash cam or with the hardwire kit. Hope this helps, Cheers!
They supposed to record while the car is off and on?
@@swoleousis9215 Hi Swol eousis! correct, a dash cam should record when the car is on and when the car is off the dash cam should turn off or it should enter parking mode. To enter parking mode most dash cams require: Matching hardwire kit, enabling parking mode in the settings, and in some cases also specifing the type of park mode desired, such as Time lapse, G-sensor, Motion Detection. Hope this makes sense, Cheers!
What fuse do you need for the hardwire kit? I can’t find it anywhere
Hi RaYze! It uses a standard glass fuses (they come already installed inside each black plastic holder) The fuse holder opens as explained at the 1:19 mark. If I remember correctly its 2A fuse (F2AL250V) however the fuse itself is marked with a model number on the bottom in case I'm incorrect. Hope this helps, Cheers1
@@AlexAutoFun uhhh ok, so all you need to do is keep the original fuse in the fuse adapter and that’s it, doesn’t need a secondary
@RaYze Hi RaYze! Correct, I don't add a second fuse (but you could if you wanted redundancy). Cheers!
@@AlexAutoFun Thankyou beyond heaps mate, has helped me out perfectly. Thankyou
@@rayze5091 You're welcome! 🍻