The right side looks a lot better and cleaned up pretty well with the combination of grinding and sand blasting , would be an interesting video to see the rust converter in action 👍👍👍👍
Not easy to paint thru all the rail holes so id use the zinc paint in there its going to be covered with new metal anyway. Great winter project and with Charlie's help you will be done by spring 👍
Hi, I m back, after waiting nearly two years for an operation on my back,I get eight hours notice of a bed and I m in.Now I have to do everything from a chair, brings a new meaning to sitting down on the job.Heres my twopennarth, I have used Upol etch primer over rust converter for years with no problem.As far as chopping out the centre cross member, please dont, you are asking for trouble. If you have any issues, cut out rust and plate over.Looking forward to seeing further progress. Good luck.
Hope the surgery goes to plan :) Good to know about etch primer over rust converter. It's 2 to 1 in favour at this point. I agree removing the cross member seems like a really bad idea and I'm sure I can figure out a way so that I don't need to touch it. Cheers
Yes. I'd go for por 15. Keep ice coming mate. I'd love to get my hands on it. If your thinking of putting new U.Js in propshaft, be careful. That was my old job reconditioning. I can give you some advice. Please don't jump in as others do. Really easy with real advice 👍👍
you can paint metal etch primer over areas treated with rust converter make sure you wash the converter area throughly with water to neutralise it and make sure its dry before painting with metal etch primer metal etch primer is designed to do exactly these type repairs
Thanks for the comment. Paint is a confusing area for the novice like me. Your advice is the exact opposite of the last person to comment! I'll get in touch with the guys at Supercheap and see what the official line is. Cheers!
@@Badgertronix i wouldn't rely on the guys at super cheap most of their staff don't have a clue any bare metal should be metal etch primed after you treat the rust parts shops these days aren't that great for advice if your not sure you need to go talk to a body shop that sells paints
Some of that Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on that tricky rust spot, maybe after hitting it with some Rust Converter first. Not sure if available in NZ, but Eastwood have a special tube fitting that gets into all those box sections and rails and sprays at all angles to get all the inner surfaces.
I was speaking to a paint expert a couple of years ago, and he said a lot of the zinc rich paints are generally designed for new steel not old rusted steel that's been cleaned up.
That sounds reasonable. I think it's always going to be a compromise between how perfect I make it with new metal vs making do with what's there and cleaning it up as best I can
@@Badgertronix we normally use a red oxide primer as our base coat as it has more of a rust inhibitor in it than the the silvery grey primer. This is coming from a maritime industry so lots of rust.
For the hole over the cross member you could chop the end of the cross member off repair the hole from underneath and then either use the old bit or weld on a crossmembers repair end wouldn’t disturb the torsion bars then.
With the patch of rust near that stud above the cross member on the drivers side, Rub it back with emery cloth or a small wire wheel probe and cover it with Phosphoric Acid based converter or Oxalic Acid rust covnerter and paint with zinc oxide paint and it should hold out.
In the early 70s I reconditioned engines for 4 years, so have done quite a few BMC A series. You will need a new rocker shaft. Get the crank reground 1 thou oversize. This is because BMC competition bearings are 1 thou thicker than standard. Block rebored and faced. Head faced, new exhaust valves, inlets reground, valve seats cut. New gaskets and timing chain. Think? that's about it. I did a video series a few years ago showing how to recondition an engine, but it was a 3.5 Briggs. See playlist 'the engine project' Any questions, just ask.
@@Badgertronix You can do it that way, but it will cost you more in the future. Do it properly and it will last you a lifetime. Someone recently commented 'the engine is the heart of a narrowboat' Well the same can be said for a car.
You've done a great job getting the metal ready for paint. I'd be no help in which direction to take concerning the best covering for raw metal. If you get good results let me know because I have a project coming up that will need the same thing.
I have to treat some rust under my car. Lots of products available. I was thinking of rust remover, cleaning then zinc primer then maybe something on that to protect the primer.
I'm only painting this thing once and I'm not sure Plasti-dip will look too good on a 1958 car! You should plasti-dip one of your cars though, that would be awesome
I say fix the rust on that beam. do exactly as u mentioned. cut a access hole then when youre done weld it back on. youre in too deep to not fix it lol
The right side looks a lot better and cleaned up pretty well with the combination of grinding and sand blasting , would be an interesting video to see the rust converter in action 👍👍👍👍
Big relief that I don't have to do too much on that side. I'm trying to plan a test to see how the rust treatment options
Not easy to paint thru all the rail holes so id use the zinc paint in there its going to be covered with new metal anyway. Great winter project and with Charlie's help you will be done by spring 👍
Thanks buddy. Charlie has got his work cut out for the winter 😂❄️😂
Hi, I m back, after waiting nearly two years for an operation on my back,I get eight hours notice of a bed and I m in.Now I have to do everything from a chair, brings a new meaning to sitting down on the job.Heres my twopennarth, I have used Upol etch primer over rust converter for years with no problem.As far as chopping out the centre cross member, please dont, you are asking for trouble. If you have any issues, cut out rust and plate over.Looking forward to seeing further progress. Good luck.
Hope the surgery goes to plan :) Good to know about etch primer over rust converter. It's 2 to 1 in favour at this point. I agree removing the cross member seems like a really bad idea and I'm sure I can figure out a way so that I don't need to touch it. Cheers
Yes. I'd go for por 15. Keep ice coming mate. I'd love to get my hands on it. If your thinking of putting new U.Js in propshaft, be careful. That was my old job reconditioning. I can give you some advice. Please don't jump in as others do. Really easy with real advice 👍👍
you can paint metal etch primer over areas treated with rust converter make sure you wash the converter area throughly with water to neutralise it and make sure its dry before painting with metal etch primer
metal etch primer is designed to do exactly these type repairs
Thanks for the comment. Paint is a confusing area for the novice like me. Your advice is the exact opposite of the last person to comment! I'll get in touch with the guys at Supercheap and see what the official line is. Cheers!
@@Badgertronix i wouldn't rely on the guys at super cheap most of their staff don't have a clue
any bare metal should be metal etch primed after you treat the rust
parts shops these days aren't that great for advice
if your not sure you need to go talk to a body shop that sells paints
I get my info direct from Supercheap head office, they supply what they know works. That said, my local Supercheap staff are great to deal with.
Some of that Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on that tricky rust spot, maybe after hitting it with some Rust Converter first. Not sure if available in NZ, but Eastwood have a special tube fitting that gets into all those box sections and rails and sprays at all angles to get all the inner surfaces.
I shall check it out but I was planning on keeping to the Supercheap Auto range to see how well their products work. Cheers
I was speaking to a paint expert a couple of years ago, and he said a lot of the zinc rich paints are generally designed for new steel not old rusted steel that's been cleaned up.
That sounds reasonable. I think it's always going to be a compromise between how perfect I make it with new metal vs making do with what's there and cleaning it up as best I can
@@Badgertronix we normally use a red oxide primer as our base coat as it has more of a rust inhibitor in it than the the silvery grey primer. This is coming from a maritime industry so lots of rust.
For the hole over the cross member you could chop the end of the cross member off repair the hole from underneath and then either use the old bit or weld on a crossmembers repair end wouldn’t disturb the torsion bars then.
I hadn't thought about it that way. Could be an option but it sounds a bit extreme! Cheers
You can do it mate.
cheers mate
With the patch of rust near that stud above the cross member on the drivers side, Rub it back with emery cloth or a small wire wheel probe and cover it with Phosphoric Acid based converter or Oxalic Acid rust covnerter and paint with zinc oxide paint and it should hold out.
In the early 70s I reconditioned engines for 4 years, so have done quite a few BMC A series. You will need a new rocker shaft. Get the crank reground 1 thou oversize. This is because BMC competition bearings are 1 thou thicker than standard. Block rebored and faced. Head faced, new exhaust valves, inlets reground, valve seats cut. New gaskets and timing chain. Think? that's about it. I did a video series a few years ago showing how to recondition an engine, but it was a 3.5 Briggs. See playlist 'the engine project' Any questions, just ask.
Thanks for the advice. I was hoping to get away with a budget rebuild but I guess there's no such thing! Cheers
@@Badgertronix You can do it that way, but it will cost you more in the future. Do it properly and it will last you a lifetime. Someone recently commented 'the engine is the heart of a narrowboat' Well the same can be said for a car.
Don't worry, it will be up to a decent standard :)
You've done a great job getting the metal ready for paint. I'd be no help in which direction to take concerning the best covering for raw metal. If you get good results let me know because I have a project coming up that will need the same thing.
Thanks buddy. I will definitely be sharing what works for me once I have figured it out
a good cover for rusty areas is tried and tested bitumastic used it many times and it lasts.
I have to treat some rust under my car. Lots of products available. I was thinking of rust remover, cleaning then zinc primer then maybe something on that to protect the primer.
It's a minefield with so many options. A few coats of anything over a well prepared surface should do the trick. Let me know what you go with
Once you figure out the base & primer, Plasti Dip.... peels off easy when you want to change the color! =)
I'm only painting this thing once and I'm not sure Plasti-dip will look too good on a 1958 car! You should plasti-dip one of your cars though, that would be awesome
I say fix the rust on that beam. do exactly as u mentioned. cut a access hole then when youre done weld it back on. youre in too deep to not fix it lol
I know if I didn't fix it it would nag at me :( I'll get it done one way or the other
They have come a long way with rust-inhibiting paints and coatings.
Definitely. 60 years of development since this car was built
What happened to the Morris minor
Awaiting spare time
A lot of work but looks good.
Thanks buddy