One correction here - they say on the bottle to apply 8 to 10 mil thickness. A mil is a unit "slang" for a thousandth of an inch. Thus, 8 to 10 mil is .008 - .010 inches. This is equivalent to about .2 millimetres. 8 to 10 millimetres would be almost half an inch thickness, which would be impossible to apply lol. I have the product too, basically just apply it as thick as possible and then apply more on top of that seems to be effective as you said. Just though you might be interested to know what a mil is - (an engineer)
We use this stuff all the time on our commercial fishing vessel. great stuff. we then apply a lot of epoxy paint over it. it's not made as a paint so if you don't paint your project that's been corrosealed afterwards it will start to rust again. it does not come off your skin/hands very easily. it's one of the toughest to get off your hands. use gloves.
Ameture Pro Tip: When working with rims that have a tire mounted on them, break down and buy one of those cheap manual tire changers from Harbor Freight (usually $40 bucks, caught mine on sale for $30 online, so less than $40 shipped to my house in about a week) so you can break the tire bead, and have access to repair/paint as needed. 2nd tip: WD-40 is like magic on hard to break tire beads.
I have used Corroseal for so many projects... everything from rusty door hinges, wheelbarrows, outdoor furniture, fencing, and of course automotive applications. It is the MOST AMAZING PRODUCT I have ever used. I spent $16 on a 32oz bottle about 10 years ago & I still have about 12oz left!!!! IMPORTANT TIP: DO NOT STORE anywhere that will get HOT, like a GARAGE or SHED. The material at the bottom of the bottle will rubberize & you will lose product.
Good video how FeII changed to FeIII and get more solid surface. The paint after this process is important step. I think Rust converter, Zn-aluminum coating, and top it off with paint and clear coat will make things perfect. Very important for cars underbody and body.
For the record it is not 8-10 millimeters, it is 8-10 mils. This is roughly 0.2 - 0.25 mm. Colors after application Black: Conversion has occured, Gray: Apply more Corroseal while still tacky, Brown: Contamination has occurred remove Corroseal and start over. Other than that good video sir.
Thanks for the video! I’m having trouble finding out what (if anything) you have to do if you want to paint after applying Corroseal. Is it basically ready to take pain once it’s dry?
Is it safe to use citric acid as a cleaner? I have mixed steel on my vehicle restoration project.Some parts are new, other part's have light pitting. Thinking maybe the citric will cause the new steel to rust and help the adhering process of Corroseal? What do you think?
@@BoutenkoFilms just think about it. 8mm to 10mm thick. 10 mm is 3/8s of an inch. In order to build up a layer 3/8s of an inch thick using a water based product you would need to have several hundred gallons per square foot of metal. And a very long span of time applying said water based material. Like a decade.
@@BoutenkoFilms They told you mils, not millimeters. A mil is the general unit of measurement for coating thicknesses; 1 mil = 1 thousandth of an inch. For reference a credit card is about 30 mils thick. Anyway, good video showing real world usage of this stuff. I'm about to tackle my truck frame where surface rust is getting out of hand.
Hi there. Great stuff I think the treatment did not work fully as there nay have been some oil - grease present. Try the wheel again please as that is my thinking I use jenolite and flag rust converter with great redults. Both finish in black. Good job. Thanks
I'm confused, why would you sand the tire ? I wasn't aware that rubber could or even would rust. The inner steel part is known as the rim, the outer rubber part is the tire, and together they make up a wheel!!! Hmmm????
I used this stuff problem was with its to thick and leaves brush marks which then have to be sanded and its not that easy to sand which kills the idea that's its some kind of barrier coat because now you have to sand through it. Its no where as easy to sand as filler primers that's for sure. It would be much better if it were water thin. So if its anything that needs a very good finish use something else.
One correction here - they say on the bottle to apply 8 to 10 mil thickness. A mil is a unit "slang" for a thousandth of an inch. Thus, 8 to 10 mil is .008 - .010 inches. This is equivalent to about .2 millimetres. 8 to 10 millimetres would be almost half an inch thickness, which would be impossible to apply lol. I have the product too, basically just apply it as thick as possible and then apply more on top of that seems to be effective as you said. Just though you might be interested to know what a mil is - (an engineer)
Thanks for the clarification. I fudged that up didn’t I?
I heard 8 to 10 mm in the video, and I'm thinking "no way!"
@@BoutenkoFilms that sounds like a sponsorship opportunity, people be applying 8-10mm of material per coat = $$$ in sales!!
We use this stuff all the time on our commercial fishing vessel. great stuff. we then apply a lot of epoxy paint over it. it's not made as a paint so if you don't paint your project that's been corrosealed afterwards it will start to rust again. it does not come off your skin/hands very easily. it's one of the toughest to get off your hands. use gloves.
true, i have use converters too
Thanks for your help today, an DC Remember, that God loves you 🙂 ❤
Came for the corroseal demo, stayed for the green smoothies.
Dope barbell
Ameture Pro Tip: When working with rims that have a tire mounted on them, break down and buy one of those cheap manual tire changers from Harbor Freight (usually $40 bucks, caught mine on sale for $30 online, so less than $40 shipped to my house in about a week) so you can break the tire bead, and have access to repair/paint as needed. 2nd tip: WD-40 is like magic on hard to break tire beads.
I have used Corroseal for so many projects... everything from rusty door hinges, wheelbarrows, outdoor furniture, fencing, and of course automotive applications. It is the MOST AMAZING PRODUCT I have ever used. I spent $16 on a 32oz bottle about 10 years ago & I still have about 12oz left!!!! IMPORTANT TIP: DO NOT STORE anywhere that will get HOT, like a GARAGE or SHED. The material at the bottom of the bottle will rubberize & you will lose product.
I have looked at quite a few Corroseal reviews and see your very same review word for word on every one of them. Do you work for Corroseal?
Awesome vid. I'm planning on taking care of some surface rust on the frame of my truck. Thanks!
I use it all the time. I love it.
How work. I need using.
Does it work on a small rust area on the car? Then , touch up? Thanks, friend
Thanks for this video. I’m going to be using this on a bunch of projects. You did a great job.
Super helpful, thank you!!
Good video how FeII changed to FeIII and get more solid surface. The paint after this process is important step. I think Rust converter, Zn-aluminum coating, and top it off with paint and clear coat will make things perfect. Very important for cars underbody and body.
Thank you. Very helpful.
Thanks, Sergei. I have used this stuff, too. You gave very good instructions and troubleshooting advice. Very well done video, as usual.
For the record it is not 8-10 millimeters, it is 8-10 mils. This is roughly 0.2 - 0.25 mm. Colors after application Black: Conversion has occured, Gray: Apply more Corroseal while still tacky, Brown: Contamination has occurred remove Corroseal and start over. Other than that good video sir.
Did you find in the coroseal instructions, after the application, anywhere, did you find any damage to the rubber tire??? Thanks! Good video@
It's water based, it literally washes off the rubber with soap and water!
Yeah, looks attractive, good jon and good point to be proud of. Cheers
is it really a "converter" or is it merely a topcoat that seals the cleaned metal and doesn't let it oxidize?
You are not supposed to use it on clean steel, so there's that
Where it goes over rust, it converts the rust. Where it is on bare rust free steel, or paint, it dries to a clear coat.
Thanks for the video! I’m having trouble finding out what (if anything) you have to do if you want to paint after applying Corroseal. Is it basically ready to take pain once it’s dry?
Is it safe to use citric acid as a cleaner? I have mixed steel on my vehicle restoration project.Some parts are new, other part's have light pitting. Thinking maybe the citric will cause the new steel to rust and help the adhering process of Corroseal? What do you think?
8 mm to 10 mm thickness? 9.00 that's scientifically and physically impossible.
That what I was told by the pros. I don’t know what else to say? 🤓
@@BoutenkoFilms just think about it. 8mm to 10mm thick. 10 mm is 3/8s of an inch. In order to build up a layer 3/8s of an inch thick using a water based product you would need to have several hundred gallons per square foot of metal. And a very long span of time applying said water based material. Like a decade.
He was Probably thinking 0.8 mm to 1.0 mm which is doable, but still needs lot more coats.
@@BoutenkoFilms They told you mils, not millimeters. A mil is the general unit of measurement for coating thicknesses; 1 mil = 1 thousandth of an inch. For reference a credit card is about 30 mils thick. Anyway, good video showing real world usage of this stuff. I'm about to tackle my truck frame where surface rust is getting out of hand.
8 to 10 mil
Thank you
OK you said in the video "until rust comes back", how long before the rust returns?
Couldn't you take the rust nearly rust free. Then let it flash rust for a day , or two then treat. That would give the Corroseal some rust to convert.
yes, the directions state you want a tight rust, like flash rust
Hi there. Great stuff I think the treatment did not work fully as there nay have been some oil - grease present.
Try the wheel again please as that is my thinking I use jenolite and flag rust converter with great redults. Both finish in black.
Good job. Thanks
can you spray this corroseal?? pjp
Will this work on stainless steel
no, stainless doesn't really rust and stainless is molecular
Mils thick, not millimeters
Did you just said an 8mm to 10mm layer thickness? Hahaha
I'm confused, why would you sand the tire ? I wasn't aware that rubber could or even would rust. The inner steel part is known as the rim, the outer rubber part is the tire, and together they make up a wheel!!! Hmmm????
I used this stuff problem was with its to thick and leaves brush marks which then have to be sanded and its not that easy to sand which kills the idea that's its some kind of barrier coat because now you have to sand through it. Its no where as easy to sand as filler primers that's for sure. It would be much better if it were water thin. So if its anything that needs a very good finish use something else.
С колесом конечно затупорылил
Ill just use naval jelly. Too many hoops to jump through with this.
8 mm to 10 mm in thickness.. lmao
8 to 10 mm in thickness? Lol
It’s rubbish trust me the rust will come back because it’s water based rubbish!!
So what would you recommend then
@@WolfBenjamite cut the rusty metal out only way to remove it properly ‘ wax oil will stop it spreading