Morris Minor - More Panels and a Door - Part 22
Вставка
- Опубліковано 3 гру 2024
- To determine the final position of the some of the inner panels I need to start test fitting a door and some other panels. Here's where I make a start on that.
I'm happy with how it is going so far and things seem to be lining up where they're supposed to.
The car is a 1958 Morris Minor 1000 with the 948cc engine. Last WOF was in 1995 and has been parked up ever since.
Tools used in this video:
www.supercheap...
www.supercheap...
www.supercheap...
www.supercheap...
Here's the rest of the series:
Part 1
• Barn Find Project Car ...
Part 2
• Barn Find Morris Minor...
Part 3
• Morris Minor - Coolan...
Part 4
• Morris Minor - Cleanin...
Part 5
• Morris Minor - Compres...
Part 6
• Morris Minor Engine Re...
Part 7
• Pressure washing the A...
Part 8
• Morris Minor Cylinder ...
Part 9
• Morris Minor - Cylinde...
Part 10
• Morris Minor - Strippi...
Part 11
• Morris Minor - Removin...
Part 12
• Morris Minor - Finding...
Part 13
• Morris Minor - Rust Re...
Part 14
• Morris Minor Project U...
Part 15a
• Morris Minor - Windscr...
Part16
• Morris Minor - Clearin...
Part 17
• Morris Minor - Cutting...
Part 18
• Morris Minor - Inspect...
Part 19
• Morris Minor - Checkin...
Part 20
• Morris Minor - Welding...
Part 21
• Morris Minor - Fitting...
Proudly supported by Supercheap Auto
www.supercheap...
I use TubeBuddy to manage my UA-cam bits and pieces. Check it out here:
www.tubebuddy....
Now we're on Ko-Fi:
ko-fi.com/badg...
Get in touch:
badgertronix@gmail.com
Check out my Instagram:
/ jdcorr918
Send me stuff:
Badgertronix
PO Box 82
Sefton
7445
New Zealand
The shoe test is absolutely brilliant. Such precision....lol
I love what you’re doing, and look forward to the next instalment. Thanks for doing this.
A big fan from the U.S.
Not too shabby! The most significant indicator is the point farthest from the hinge- look at the gap at the top rear of the door, if that's good, the hinges are very adjustable, for in-and-out fit. I think you've got the hang of it.
Thanks! It's looking pretty good for bodging it up by eye. With some adjustment it's going to be an excellent fit. Cheers
After you stipped and cut back I was worried, now I get more encouraged to take a chance on one of these myself.
Not as worried as me 😬 go for it, it's a great sense of achievement when things go well
I like his dead pan delivery on this series.
Just binge-watched the lot. Bloody good. Cant wait for the next installment.
That's awesome 😊 glad you enjoyed the series so far
Excellent video, very helpful and thanks a lot.
You were smart to take those extra steps to insure correct fitment. You just saved yourself a lot of aggravation in the future.
Thanks Wyatt. Getting this corner right is probably the most important part so I'm glad I'm getting it sorted early on. Cheers
Baby steps and you'll get there! You're doing great Jonathan! 👍☺️
Thanks Niamh. Any progress is good progress 😀
A good methodical approach seems to be working out for you there. Really nice stuff.
Thank you. I have a plan and I reckon if I follow that things will work out well. Cheers
Spot on buddy. Editing is top notch too. 👍
Thanks buddy. Welcome back from civilisation 😂
Take care where you direct those grinder sparks! I managed to set my jacket afire a few years back.Fortunately I could smell something burning. As usual we are enjoying the restoration progress from Canada.
Great advice! Those sparks did look like they were heading for the danger zone. Thanks for following along
Any more videos beyond 22 on the Moggy? Looking forward to seeing progress.
Am at the same stage as you, on a Traveller, same rust, same patches. I have mounted the car on a spit which makes it a hundred times easier to work on .
It's looking really good nice feeling once you start test fitting the panels.
It definitely feels like good progress. Cheers
Just use hex head sheet metal (ie shed) screws to hold your panels together. No drilling of holes, just self drilling and screwed together. Another (dearer) option, is to use Cleco clips. 1/8" of 3/16". You can also get Cleco clamps. Great system for bodywork.
Great work my friend! I wish I had your skills and patience!- I’m also glad you have swapped your flip flops for boots!! :))
Thanks
Ok said this before.....bodywork never been my thing. Even when I could do something. However, without a jig, might have helped to weld a few braces in before taking it all apart. But, you are doing great, and that's the important thing 😊😊👍
I'm new to bodywork but it's going OK so far. Everyone kept telling me to put bracing in but I could never figure out how to do that that would be of any benefit. It's shaping up just fine which is all that matters. Cheers
@@Badgertronix You are doing great. Jigs are for amatures right :)
Love watching your videos, but I have to say that they bring back painful memories😔😔😔
Great to have you along for the journey. Dare I ask why the painful memories?
@@Badgertronix I have finished restoring my first classic car last year , a 1970 Morris minor 1000, and many times I was overwhelmed with the bodywork. Now I just have to fit the underfelt and carpets in the next few days, and I am almost done. I had a lot of days where I sat in sea of parts covered in rust dust, asking what did I get my self into.
I had someone else do the welding, and I took it to a shop for painting. But overall it was a good experience.
I had flashbacks when I saw you trying to fit the door by yourself 😂. Love the car to bits, now I am thinking about a Morris 8.
All the best and looking forward to seeing you complete the project.
I'm sure you must have a great sense of achievement now it's all done. This project seems very daunting to me at times but if you don't try you don't know. I'll get there with some fond memories I'm sure
@@Badgertronix I am quite satisfied that I pulled through despite all the difficulties. You definitely are more patient and skilled than I am, so I am sure you will complete the Morris.
May I ask what do you plan to do with the paint? Could I make a request or if you would consider doing a DIY paint job. As this would be the plan for future projects in my case.
That's awesome, well done 😊
As much as possible will be done in my shed which will include painting the car. It will be finished in acrylic paint and I'm confident it's going to look pretty good when it's done.
One word. Fantastic 👍
Thank you 😊
lots of fun just did mine
Good stuff mate.
Cheers mate
Looking good from here, nothing a bit of fettling can't sort out 👍
It's much more forgiving than I had planned on. Lots of adjustment available so I think I'm in good shape. Cheers
Tough job fabrication work mate but it’s looking good, with a little bit of adjustment everything should line up nicely 👍👍👍👍
Thanks mate. Lots of learning happening but it's going OK 👍
Have you done any more videos after Part 23 ?
Looking good badger.you could get disc brakes off a Morris marina or ital or equivalent in nz
You can a few different options, but to use them on the car they need to be certified which is an expensive business. I'll be sticking to stock drums for the time being. Cheers
Looks like its fitting decent. Time to burn it in!
Getting close but not quite!
Great Job.
thanks
Metric threads on a 1958 Morris? What kind of monster does that. haha
I never really thought about it but i guess whitworth stuff is pretty much extinct these days apart from a few vintage cars and airplanes and maybe some old machinery knocking around the former British empire. I think my dad has a few taps, dies and spanners and the like left over from those days but he gave most of them away.
I can't believe how close that was first time. Looking really promising.
They don't seem metric, not sure what they are. That was quite annoying!
It was actually closer than it looked in the video because I couldn't screw in the bottom of the wing which brought it all together nicely. I was amazed it was so close a which is a huge confidence booster. 14mm spanner seems to be my go to tool on this rig 🤣
@@Badgertronix I'd expect a mix of UNC and UNF with the odd BA thrown in just for the fun of it. UNC and UNF are Imperial. BA is an ancient British system for small screws and actually based on the metric system but the thread pitch doesn't match standard metric threads, nor do the screw diametres.
I replaced the seat of my 90s bicycle a few weeks ago, with a vintage one, possibly 1970s. First tried a 15 mm socket - much too loose. 13 mm didn't fit. Gave up for the day, returned with a 14 mm spanner a few days later. Didn't quite fit. It's 9/16" :-( And of course living in a country where the metric system was introduced in 1873, I don't own any Imperial spanners.
Quite a few engineering bits and bobs were Imperial for a long time though, even in Austria. Plumbing threads still are, Whitworth pipe thread. Except tap aerators - they're M24x1.
What about zinc dichromate paint on interior panels? Used on airplanes to control corrosion. I rode in a USA Morris owned by my Scoutmaster. It left me affected with a Morris appreciation. 😎
There are plenty of paint options but I'm sticking to what I have available and I'm sure it will do a great job. They're great little cars. Cheers
I was wondering, if you put some rust converter , so you don*t have to worry about,rust damaging the ca4
Hi again Mr B, You may find a mixture of bolt sizes on the car like AF in some places and BSF in others---great isn't it ! Great videos, reminds me a lot of the 1970 Traveller I restored 20 years ago, and still have it. The bodywork was nowhere near as decent as yours, probably due to a combination of UK salted winter roars and poorer quality steel. Great progress.Good luck from that old Yorkshire "Geezer" in Ireland.
One of the most frustrating things I have found with this car is the variety of fasteners in use. I'm happy there isn't more rust but it is in decent shape overall. Cheers
Das fit good... that's what she said!
It's good from a far and far from good! It will get there 😎
@@Badgertronix Far better than what I could do!!
Looking good Badger Whitworth bolts along the top and UNF thread bolts going down also check that bottom panel you welded in that its not to far in be for you go to far mate its getting there
Thanks mate. That bottom panel is spot on and there's still the outer step to go on which can be adjusted to fit perfectly. I'm a way off being ready to weld it in but getting there. Cheers
Hello can I ask you a question please?
What kind of screws do you use?
Ive seen tek screws
seem to be good for bodywork.
self tapping sheet metal screws. Tek screws would have been better
I find it mind boggling at what your doing, wish l had your patience!
What hobbies do you have😂
I don't have much patience but I find this relaxing.... apart from those poxy screws 😂 not too much spare time for hobbies apart from this one. Cheers
Where the other episodes....
Your door is on? Or is it ajar?
If it's a jar get a brewski and fill it up. Or if you are Thomas fill it up with Bier.
Instead of screws what about rivets?
Shoe test aye? Is that like a kick in the butt I didn't see that coming.
Good progress.
I did consider rivets and it may come to that, but screws are adequate enough for now. The shoe test is from the factory repair manual so seems legit 🤣👟 Thanks buddy
its the A pillar or post.
It's that bit there
👍👍
Thanks buddy
Remember, the Morris Minor wasn't built in a day, as per British Motor Industry Union rules... Coming along.
This has definitely taken longer than a day 😂
My 1949 Morris Minor Lowlite: ua-cam.com/video/nRsUk5toZM4/v-deo.html, Allan, NZ
You clearly know nothing about the task in hand or how to go about it
sounds like your dating history
Remember, the Morris Minor wasn't built in a day, as per British Motor Industry Union rules... Coming along.