Your best having the OSB boards with writing on facing outwards (smooth side) as it has better weather protection. For roofing, have the non writing side upwards as it is rougher for better grip.
Hi, great video! Could you please explain how you attached the walls to the floor? I mean did you secure them to the floor frame, or did you go all the way down to the concrete?
Hi bud, i’ve been using your video for planning my own garden room. I just wanted to ask on how can you get a slope for the roof as I can see all the walls have the same height(please correct me if I am wrong).. thanks for making some time for replying on my query..all the best…
For a full breakdown of DIY garden room costs click here: thediyfix.com/garden-room-materials-download/ Also, would anyone like plans? If enough people ask in the comments, I will create detailed garden room plans to follow and build your own.
You mention each stud is 400mm from the last. I've looked up to buy OSB board and it seems to come in 1220mm width. Assuming each stud is 40mm thickness, the first four studs will be 160mm. Add on three 400mm spaces, and you get 1360mm width. I've noticed when you add the board the edge lines up neatly with the studs. Can you explain how that all works? I'm trying to do a plan and it's doing my nut in!
Great video series. Sorry if I'm missing it, for the door lintel, is it 150mm overhang on each side? And would you need similar lintels for bigger windows(1m x 1m)? The lintel in your window installation video is one 2x4 horizontally. Thanks!
Hi Mike, it was bigger than that, around 275mm each side. The timber I used was 2.4m, so it was just whatever it worked out at. For the windows I guess it would depend on where they are and how big they are. The reason the door has a linel is due to it supporting the roof joists. Most of the time this wont be the case for windows.
Please may I ask. How have you determined the gap to leave for the front doors? I have some doors which are 1600 wide. Do I leave a gap just that big, or leave some room either side? Thanks in advance
You want to leave a gap slightly bigger (around 10-15mm). If you make the opening tight you wont be able to adjust the door for plumb, and square. Just make sure your gap is even when you pack the door, that way it can be covered by cladding externally and plasterboard internally. Finally, make sure the opening itself is as plumb as possible. This will make fitting your door so much easier.
I didnt do anthing, was lucky with weather during this build. However, even if it had rained the wood is treated, the floor is weatherproof and the structural OSB is also weatherproof to an extent, so a little rain wont do it any harm
Most of my power tools are Dewalt and I personally like them, plus they all use the same batteries which is handy. I would definitely recommend the nail gun, as I have owned a paslode in the past and there is no real difference in performance, but the dewalt is cheaper and doesnt need gas. I'll add a full list of tools I used to the description
I like your honesty and correcting yourself throughout, it made me smile 😊
Glad you enjoyed it Michael
If I could like this twice, I would. Really helping me out seeing it done and you talking through it.
Thanks James, glad its helping someone :)
@@thediyfixGenuinely super helpful.
Your best having the OSB boards with writing on facing outwards (smooth side) as it has better weather protection. For roofing, have the non writing side upwards as it is rougher for better grip.
I don't understand, so do you have the writing facing the sky?
What types of nail gun gauge is that? Thanks for the content!! It’s great
Such a good series 👍
Thanks mate
Hi, great video! Could you please explain how you attached the walls to the floor? I mean did you secure them to the floor frame, or did you go all the way down to the concrete?
I secured the walls to the floor frame with 4 inch screws
Hi, great video!
Could you confirm the size of the stud joists, 3”x2” or 4”x2”?
Many thanks.
Hi Richard, the Studwork was all 4x2
Hi bud, i’ve been using your video for planning my own garden room. I just wanted to ask on how can you get a slope for the roof as I can see all the walls have the same height(please correct me if I am wrong).. thanks for making some time for replying on my query..all the best…
Hi mate the side walls are sloped. I show how I did it in my dedicated wall video. It’s in the garden room playlist
Thanks for taking time for replying…i will look on it…😊
For a full breakdown of DIY garden room costs click here: thediyfix.com/garden-room-materials-download/
Also, would anyone like plans? If enough people ask in the comments, I will create detailed garden room plans to follow and build your own.
You mention each stud is 400mm from the last. I've looked up to buy OSB board and it seems to come in 1220mm width. Assuming each stud is 40mm thickness, the first four studs will be 160mm. Add on three 400mm spaces, and you get 1360mm width. I've noticed when you add the board the edge lines up neatly with the studs. Can you explain how that all works? I'm trying to do a plan and it's doing my nut in!
Yeah the 400 centres are for the internal plasterboard. You just need to rip a little off the OSB
Great video series. Sorry if I'm missing it, for the door lintel, is it 150mm overhang on each side? And would you need similar lintels for bigger windows(1m x 1m)? The lintel in your window installation video is one 2x4 horizontally. Thanks!
Hi Mike, it was bigger than that, around 275mm each side. The timber I used was 2.4m, so it was just whatever it worked out at.
For the windows I guess it would depend on where they are and how big they are. The reason the door has a linel is due to it supporting the roof joists. Most of the time this wont be the case for windows.
What size nails did you use for attaching the OSB please?
If I remember correctly I believe they were 64mm
Hi. what stud wall timber did you use C16 or C24?
Thanks.
It was c16
Please may I ask. How have you determined the gap to leave for the front doors? I have some doors which are 1600 wide. Do I leave a gap just that big, or leave some room either side? Thanks in advance
You want to leave a gap slightly bigger (around 10-15mm). If you make the opening tight you wont be able to adjust the door for plumb, and square.
Just make sure your gap is even when you pack the door, that way it can be covered by cladding externally and plasterboard internally.
Finally, make sure the opening itself is as plumb as possible. This will make fitting your door so much easier.
I thought the point of using nails was because the tensile strength of nails is stronger and they won't snap unlike a screw?
Yeah nails are stronger.
What do you do to protect it from the weather when you're not working on it?
I didnt do anthing, was lucky with weather during this build. However, even if it had rained the wood is treated, the floor is weatherproof and the structural OSB is also weatherproof to an extent, so a little rain wont do it any harm
Hi great work.. what thickness osb did you use? Thanks in advance
Hi Sanj, Im pretty sure it was 18mm
@@thediyfix perfect thanks. Lots of inspiration from your videos 🙌🏽
What brand of tools are you using and would you recommend them?
Most of my power tools are Dewalt and I personally like them, plus they all use the same batteries which is handy. I would definitely recommend the nail gun, as I have owned a paslode in the past and there is no real difference in performance, but the dewalt is cheaper and doesnt need gas.
I'll add a full list of tools I used to the description
Did you nail or screw the bottom of the side wall to the floor (2mins, 52 secs)
Yes I screwed the walls down to the floor
What thickness and type of the osb board plz
Structural OSB 18mm
What size was the Garden room ?
Roughly 3x4m