Garden room wall height explained to keep you under the 2.5mtr height limit
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Sunday session! and it didn't involve going to the pub!!
Its a cold one, and the Paslode's are struggling with the below zero temperatures. The Milwaukee makes another appearance and puts the Paslode to shame.
Ive tried to explain wall height in this one and the reason we use the timber sizes we do.
The delay in doors and windows is forcing my hand and we are pushing forward with new builds as I need to keep the guys and Amy in work!
As always thanks for watching and please leave comments, good or bad, its all good!
Build packs are available at
www.oakwoodgardenrooms.com
Thanks you
I only wish other people would explain stuff as well as you do. Subscribed a while ago, I'm encouraging others in my area to do the same.
Cheers and keep the videos coming.
💯% the only guy explaining it properly. Keep up the good work such great videos
Great video, thanks again. Always so much information and well explained 👍
Subscribed and have been watching ALL day! Great professional workmanship explained and executed perfectly.... Think I may attempt a build myself lol! WELL DONE guys, lovely Amy too? You are an inspiration..... What a gal! :-))
Great work very consistent on every job you are doing really well.
you could always eek another 25mm out of the internal by dropping the back wall height to only 50mm lower than the front maybe, think a 3.5/4 metre span fall for flat roof works out to a 50mm slope - i'm an avid watcher and subscribed, and using your technique for my future builds, planning on doing a 50mm drop myself to potentially give me 25mm more in the roof joists to do a 150mm cold roof, 100mm PIR level with bottom of joist inside, and 50mm front to back air flow with vented soffits front and back. thanks for sharing all your videos, its helped me learn this stuff from scratch and even though I am building a custom sized one, I will be buying a pack off you to show my support.
Pleasure to watch craftsmanship
Can’t stop watching these. Somewhat addictive! Great job!!
Will you ever do one on to an existing concrete base (ie not using the rod system?)
Only if the customer can sign me a waver saying it’s sufficiently strong enough
Thanks for sharing, the explanations are really great. I am fascinated by the tek screws and find it amazing you can screw into steel without drilling. It would be interesting to see more on tek screws, do you use different types etc?
A video I'm looking forward to watching...
Once my Mrs let's me 🤣
worth watching as it's very very informative, thanks
Great video, going to give one a go myself as I’m going to lose my office to my son soon! 2 questions... any reason why I couldn’t use 3x2 for walls? And why I couldn’t use 4x2 for roof? Not like it’s bearing much weight itself? Cheers
Ever tried a strip foundation and 50mm dwarf wall? Could allow 100mm insulation without floor timbers, just on hardcore without slab. Also, just discovered that in Scotland the height is measured from lowest point adjacent to building!
The height rule in Scotland is from lowest point of land and not highest. Lucky you. It's a pain in the arse here.
Why if the neighbours' land is lower than yours? Could I still build a 2.5 wall on my land? I live in a terrace house and have a very low wall. I don't have much privacy in the back garden.
I know it doesn’t lend itself to your fantastic builds with the piles, but if you were building with a concrete base and block, at least a few blocks up from ground level, before going timber, could you drop the floor lower inside? In other words, build below ground level to achieve more internal height.
Granted, there’s a bit of work with this approach, but interested to hear whether this would be acceptable so you can have 2.5m from ground level to top of roof, but able to open the door, step down and achieve more head height inside.
I'm trying to maximise my build by putting it in an angled corner of the garden...This means that it will be 3m wide at one end and 2.4m wide at the other end...base and walls seem easy enough but struggling with how the roof joist will go to compensate for the difference in width along the length of the building...any help appreciated...cheers...
I'd be interested in how you would do this too?
Don’t know why but I can’t stop watching it. As always well done guys!
Great content again 👍👍. What size timber would you use for roof if size of summer room was 5m x 5m. Do they need to be bigger in depth, if so will this affect total height??
Great content as always. Just one thing your previous vid showed you putting a membrane down before the floor this time you didn’t any reason. Thanks
It was over engineering and at this time of year it holds rain which in turn is drawn back into the room as it dries, generally not an issue, but the turn around time doesn’t allow for any moisture . So we omit it in the winter 👌
Thanks once again.
When you say adjacent to how far away from the building does that go ?
Maybe time to challenge building regs to give us the extra 200mm without planning notice for a flat roof
I’d love to do this💪🏻I wonder where you would start
@@thegardenroomguru probably write to the committee responsible for signing off building regs and putting them in front of the law makers. Time for a petition :-)
@@asif530 maybe organise a go fund me page to take it to a legal standpoint 🤷♂️, another 200mm would solve all problems
@@asif530 it's a planning concern not a building regs concern
Great videos Liam. You use 4 x 2 for the floor joists, with 100mm foil backed insulation dropped in. But isn't the 4x2 less than 100mm deep (they tend to be 95mm or so)? Does this make the insulation sit proud above the joists, or does the flooring compress the insulation?
Ours are 100mm mate, I know some people struggle to source true 100mm so just use 90 mm insulation 👌
What about half of the garden room is on existent patio (height of 30cm)? Does it mean the height can only be 220cm?
Good video as ever, could I use 3x2 cls as a alternative, ?
Have you ever used a SIP roof so you can have 150mm roof all in.
If you make the front an back walls different height I get that you will get your roof slope but the ceiling will be sloped..... Why don't you use roof firring?
This way gives you max head height in permitted development 👌
@@thegardenroomguru I'm just about to start my personal garden room and I've watched hours of you, learnt a lot and changed the way I'm going to build.... I've gone for the sheet metal rear clad I live that idea also doing a floating floor as I have concrete base. Thanks for all your help, you've got a great business and team of people 👍
Great video but I’m slightly confused with the 2.5m rule? Is it a horizontal line taken from 2.5m up your house wall or 2.5m taken from the highest part of your garden? It’s important for me as I live on a upwards slope going away from my house so I’d have to dig out an awful lot of garden?
Hi Steven,
It's taken from the highest natural point in the garden adjacent to where the building will sit. The height in relation to your house isn't considered.
I love watching your videos you do amazing job. I was thinking of doing a garden room as you look at the area I want to room to the left I have raised 4x5m area it about 5 to 6 inches Higher to the front view what side can I measure from to stay with the 2.5 ??
You measure from the highest point of land right next to the building mate, so if the ground is raised, in some cases your building can actually be taller than the 2.5
@@thegardenroomguru thanks. Keep up the great work. Great workmanship.
do you need planning permission? ie im looking for someone to do something like this but not as to a high of a spec in plymouth.
Desperately need another 200mm for my project as I'm using 150mm joists. Might just risk it as my neighbours mancave is 9ft
if no-one complains within 4 years it becomes a lawful structure anyways :) - keep them sweet for 4 years and you are laughing
Exactly the explanation I needed. I'm considering building on a slope (using your build pack!) which is higher at the back, but I want the pitch to run front to back, which will make the height at the front close to 3m! Is this definitely still OK, and how would I deal with the enormous gap under the front of the building?
its the rules as set out by the government planning portal. your going to need a raised step at the front, one option is to use a sleeper wall and fill with stone, slate chippings, or secondly build a step with brick or block and fit paving stones. we will be doing exactly this on the Ilkley build
@@thegardenroomguru one more question on this - is it therefore not in people's interest to deliberately build on a slope so that they can take advantage of this planning loophole? If I were to dig out the back slope so that it's level with the front (but the surrounding ground is all still sloped), I could make the building even taller, as about a foot of it would essentially be underground, before the 2.5m measurement rule is applied. Make sense?
So the height is measured from the highest point of ground naturally adjacent to the ground around the building. So as long as from that measurement it's within 2.5m you're fine
@@nick4501 in theory Nick you can dig out, in my experience I've had a few planners kick up a fuss. If you can play it safe I'd recommend a certificate of lawfulness if you plan on doing that just to be safe
@@timothysnelling7876 thanks a lot. I called my local planning office and they just kept saying that it's taken from the lowest ground level around the building! Annoyingly, I couldn't find exactly where in the planning guidelines it says about the highest adjoining ground, so I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and get it formally certified 🤔
Get them days in as the wet weather is not your friend
gazebo and tarpaulins :-)
Can you go higher if you are a metre off the boundaries?
Has to be 2mtr mate
@@thegardenroomguru Cheers
Not landing edge of board on joist
When installing the cedar cladding what cedar cladding do you use for secret nail fixing?
As always..... outstanding.
Working on a Sunday. Good man lol.
7 days a week now, its not like there's anything else to do ;-)
@@thegardenroomguru You will of overtaken me on subs in a few days. Absolutely amazing channel. Well done buddy.
Mate, I’m blown away by the fact people want to watch us 🙈it’s truly amazing! Apart from the keyboard warriors, it’s such a good community 🥰
@@thegardenroomguru Not sure if you are aware but you can now add a join button. Might be a way for people to support the channel etc.
What does that do?
When putting up the garden outhouse do you inform the owner of the height or ask if they've planning permission if it looks like it will be above 2.5m or within 2m of a boundary? Or do you proceed if the owner just wants it done, and it's on them to get the relevant planning?
If you’re roof rafters don’t land on top of your wall studs , which they don’t you should have a double top plate . Just saying 👍
Always love the content Liam. Never ending knowledge. Working on Sunday just goes to prove the haters how your quality has enabled you to expand. Busy enough to work 7 days and showing the passion you have. Your passion and drive has been the same since day 1 and it’s infectious.
Keep it up mate
Always good to hear your voice mate!
As the numbers increase the haters increase, I’m trying to shake it off 😊
This increase in numbers just goes to prove you and your teams quality. You are inspirational so keep up the amazing work.
Love the videos!
Any plans on offering custom size build packs or increasing the sizes offered?
I’ll never do the custom ones again, people just took the p**s, spent a few sleepless nights stressing about it.
Are you looking for the maximum 30m2 or something else ?
@@thegardenroomguru I can imagine how frustrating that would be!
I was looking for a 4.8m x 2.4m size
Amazing work mate! Always look forward to these videos! Something satisfying about them
Love the height explanation helps us all! Keep up the good work
Thanks for all these videos, I'm finding them really helpful and informative. I've got two questions, though:
1. Do you need to take the floor boarding to the edge of the floor frame or could you finish it at where the internal line of the wall will be? (Yes, I know I'm just being tight using the wall width to eek out an extra few inches on either side without buying more boards!!)
2. Using the threaded rod system, could you use anther 75x75x10 square washer instead of the shoe? I realise it might introduce some movement but surely once it's got a floor screwed on it isnt going anywhere!
Thanks again!!
Great tutorial, I'm too close to the neighbour to be able to clad afterwards, is it a case of building the walls completely and as many bodies as you can to lift into place and do roofing sheets provide a lightweight option? Any advice gratefully received.
Thanks for your great videos Liam. Is there a reason you don’t increase the room height another 44mm to utilise the full permitted height?
My garden sloped from right to left by around 600mm I’ve had it levelled and I’m going to install gravel boards to retain the ground on the right hand side. Does that now mean I can go to 3.1m as the adjacent ground (500mm) away from the building will be 600mm above the ground level of my building.
Great Education.
Sorry how tall are you walls including base and top plate 1950?
Great work William, love all your videos fair play to you sharing all your knowledge to everyone on you tube
Wish I wasn’t in Scotland to work with you guys what a good bunch of workers 👍🏻
Thanks 4 th 2.5 rule talk 😊
Thanks for the great videos.
Totally agree on a frosty Sunday as well,top team,👍👏
you're top mate
Where you get the rod shoes from ?
Bapps bolts mate
@@thegardenroomguru thank you 🙏
@lanegary78 they deliver next day nationwide mate, I’m sure delivery is free, but don’t quote me
@@thegardenroomguru ok cool I’ll order some today mate
Who's the mystery??
so how do you stop the condensation under the roof as you cant guarantee the insulation is 100% tight and there is no gap
It’s negligible mate, these are low occupancy rooms, whole different concept
good quality insulation suppliers will give you free of charge a CRA (condensation risk analysis) if you submit to them your proposed design. It will show two graphs, the anticipated temperature drop from 20 deg. (inside) to zero (outside). The graph will show the anticipated temperature drop measured over one hour. The other line on the graph will show where the dew point will occur and which at the worst,could be within the structure. If one of the lines crosses over the other one, then your condensation problem is going to happen for sure, the science proves it. If someone is confident of their design, either,architect or contractor then part of their service to the "paying customer" would be to include such a chart with their price to you. After all, it is free and why this company do not show these charts for their designs mystifies me from a customer care point of view. This system is used to determine a U value for floors, walls, roofs, although a "garden shed" does not have to comply with U values, that does not mean that condensation will not occur. Kingspan will also show you in their brochures that a vapour barrier should be placed below the chipboard flooring. It is not "over engineering", it is a necessary manufacturers specification.The cold roof design is doomed to failure. With a heater in that room in the winter, on for most of the day, will produce warm air which contains moisture and rises upwards going through the roof structure and it will inevitably condense somewhere, if you do not have a CRA chart to verify your proposed design then you are simply flying by the seat of your pants and a "low occupancy" excuse is not appropriate, it is the amount of heat being generated by people and other items, your kettle for a cup of tea, a cooking ring for a quick snack whilst working, your tv, computer etc.
Its a daft law mate 2.5 restriction. there is a building next door must be over 3 meters i mean who would say out if it was 2.6 2.7 or even 3 . does an inspector go around the UK to see if garden rooms and sheds are taller than 2.5 . i,am 6'4" and have a garden room with 2.5 head room no planning if i was told take it down tell them fuck off and strongly advise them not to send anyone else to do it if they cared about there own safety .bureaucratic bullshit i can understated a limit but 2.5 meters total is a joke
I always run the bottom wall plate straight along the front and cut it off after instead of lining it up with those blocks
Also should be noted, if you are at least 2m away from a boundary you have more height to play with. A dual pitch roof can have a ridge height of 4m and an eaves height of 2.5m, this means an internal height of about 8ft. A mono pitch roof can be 3m tall as long as the lowest edge is no higher than 2.5m.
YipeeKiYayJB
That’s good to know thanks
what would the pitch have to be to count has a mono pitch instead of a flat roof
@@collcolin Mono pitch is just a a roof with one slope, so it could be virtually flat to any angle you could make fit the regs. What you see Oakwood do is considered a mono pitch roof. A dual pitch would be similar to what you see most houses have.
YipeeKiYayJB
Yes I realise all that
But what I mean is if the flat roof with say a 5 degree pitch can be considered a mono pitch then the highest part can be 3 M as long as it goes down to 2.5 at it’s lowest point
Also I think the roofs Oakwood are doing are classed as a flat roof not mono pitch
So could you dig down 1 meter to accommodate a higher roof Hight to be inside the regulations?
Technically yes
Hi Liam,
About to buy a 7x4m build pack. I’ve come back to this video because I remembered you breaking down the internal head height.
Would you still use the rod system if I dig down 120mm-150mm to gain additional internal height for a gym?
is 2 x 4 c24 timber enough for 5x3m workshop's floor joists with 400 spacing between them ? or should I go with 2 x 5? Thanks
hi I don't understand on the planing restriction from flour is 150mm but you say 50mm sorry but I'm confused
Hi there just wondering if you could offer a bit of advice,I’m looking at building a jacuzzi/bar area in a covered outhouse but with the steam etc from the jacuzzi think I could run into issue with mould/rotting planning to have decking boards as flooring,is there anything I can do to help with this issue thanks for any advice
Hi I have been watching your videos for months and I think you and your crew doo a fantastic job I just wondered if you could tell me what height you cut the uprights for the Back and front walls ... wishing you all the best keep safe and carry on the fantastic builds you do...
Loving these videos. Have you ever excavated to do a sunken garden room, if you've got an 8ft customer?... or, someone like me who wants the garden room to practise the double bass which needs more head height?
Liam, what length of box section would you use above a 2.7m door opening? 200mm over each side or get away with less?? Cheers.
You've still got a bit of wiggle room on the height. You could add 30mm to the rafters giving you 150mm. Never have to double up the rafters and build a proper cold roof with vents and still be under height.
whats your email as dont use facebook or instagram as want to ask you some advice on my shed
Great videos...very informative ....
Just wondering can the bases be sealed to stop rodents getting under and causing problems?
Cheers
John in Dublin
You and your crew great inspiration , showing your craftsmanship and sharing knowledge to empower people to do for themselves , great vids , 😎👍
are 4x2’s strong enough for floor joists? I was thinking of using c24 4x2’s
Do you not dig down because owners don’t want you to or because of cost?
Learning so much from you're videos while in this lockdown. Keep up the good work on the vids! 👏 Roughly how much would all the materials be for 8x4m room like in your builds. Might give it a go myself one day.
Hi Liam, enjoy watching your videos and the passion you show. I just wanted to ask on the base I don’t recall you using a breathable membrane under the egger protect chipboard. On previous builds you seem to include this even though you state it’s just more over engineering as it’s already off the floor. Once again great videos and keep up the good work!
5 builds on the go! Can't get enough of this. Thanks for explaining how you get to the 2.5 mark again, added to faves. Back of my garden is the highest (concreted) point so looking for a 50mm block, ideally 45mm with some cement to keep it in place, then build up from there.
nice buildability explanation, thanks
any reason you don't make the inside square, and taper the roof joists?
Can you use rockwall in the roof or will you get condensation ?
Well explained. Would you do a video on pitched roofs please. Cheers
Amazing videos! Love watching these!
Liam, do I need a steel beam if my doors are 2400 wide.
Cheers
Brilliant!!
😎😎😎😎 keep up the great work gang 👍🏻
Crackin vid,lookin forward to the next one👍
very nice
William/Liam you look like you have lost quite a bit of weight, don't neglect your health, especially at this time.
Forgot to say good video!
Is it not 3m if you are 2m away from the boundary to your land and 4m with a double pitched roof in the same circumstances.?
In Scotland the 2.5m rule only applies 1m from the boundary, measured from the lowest point, Then the eves no more than 3m and the ridge no more than 4m
Can I ask where you’re getting 1950mm doors from? Trying to find but failing
Express bifolds mate
What happens if I have a span of 4.2 ? Can I still use 5x2 or will I need 6x2 doubled up ?
defiantly not 5x2 mate. id look at using c24 timber you get a much greater span. google timber span charts.
whats the maximum lengh and width without permission please great vid
Internal m2 not greater than 30m2.
Love the vids but if it comes in at 2456mm height, why can't you increase the wall heights by 40mm? The extra inch and a half will make all the difference according to my wife.😮
Too close to call mate, building inspectors can be funny creatures snd if a neighbour complains need to assurance it’ll be a pass
@@thegardenroomguru
Cheers mate. Thanks for the reply and advice. Much appreciated. I'll stick to your measurements!
BTW, Great the way you review and explain the tools, nails etc you use.
Great work guys. Would you ever get any rust or corrosion problems with the ground pegs in the concrete? Please settle an argument with a mate of mine cheers.
The rods originally were zinc plated and high quality steel, we are now using galvanised, but only because I’ve got a deal on them, however if you google rust rates and the measurement it’s taken in, me, you and every one we know will be long gone from this earth before rust is an issue 👌
Great thanks for that. Very useful cheers.
Great informative video as always. How do you stop water or moisture ingress between the floor and walls apart from the overhanging OSB?
How would water ingress in this space? It will be wrapped next then battened and then clad. 👍🏼
@@markkelly8461 do you attach the membrane wrap to the exterior wall and the underside of the floor joists to cover that join between wall and floor?
Love the videos, keep it up! I actually emailed the other day to get a quote for a room from you based on your outstanding videos!
One question on the 2.5m height - could you dig down into the ground a little in order to have a greater internal height in the garden room?
Yes mate
@@thegardenroomguru Awesome! Looking forward to getting a quote from you! Appreciate the videos, they are great!
@@thegardenroomguru Edit: my name is Jason so you know for the quote.
@@jayplays568 I’ll screen shot and send it to Siobhan 👍🏼
@@thegardenroomguru Thanks, I sent her a sketch of what I was after.
If you dig down a little to get a larger internal head height, does that create problems with flooding or anything once it has been built? Or can you take that into account with proper drainage when you do a build that requires some digging?
Is it possible to dig down so the build floor level is below the highest adjacent ground point to gain height ?
I’ve looked for info on this before but permitted development rules aren’t clear on it.
I ask as my garden is sloped .
Great video as usual by the way.
It’s been a big help having good clear advice from some one who knows what they are doing, keep it up 👍
It works in theory, it has been done. Some planners could be funny about it.
@@timothysnelling7876 , I may just apply for planning just to raise the height to 2.8.
This allows me to get a warm roof on.
Everything else I plan is well
Within the permitted development rules .
I just feel better about a warm rather than cold roof as I’m not a pro builder and this is or will be the first time I attempt a cold roof and I have heard horror story’s about ruined roofs with in a few years and major damp issues
@@edwardshaw9912 if you can get the planning it's worthwhile doing as you can do exactly what you want. Just keep in mind most planners are taking a lot longer to handle planning applications. We had one London borough quote 12-14 weeks 🤯
@@timothysnelling7876 , I’m a patient man, I can wait 😂
I build summerhouses myself I do build completely different from yourself but hate trolls who talk crap to just get replies. I'm pretty sure my prices are much less than yours but yours are pretty OTT ( not a bad thing ) I wanted to say that 2.5m isn't the maximum height 2.5 is the highest within 1m of any boundary but an apex roof can have a peak of 4m and a pent roof can go to 3m at its peak ( not 3m flat roof has to be pent ) I had a nightmare neighbour on a job who got council involved and I pushed for a compliance officer to come out as within 1m of boundary I was hitting 2.5 but my peak was approx 2.850 and compliance officer cleared it with no planning needed
Hehe not trolling but - if I've understood you correctly and you were within 2m of the boundary, the officer was wrong. `If any part of the building, container or enclosure is within 2 metres of the boundary of the
curtilage of the house, then the height limit for the total development is restricted to 2.5m if it is to be permitted development.
@@coops6621 genuinely Google it and your see . I'm in Scotland so it's slightly different but I checked it out for England and it's within 1m of boundary not 2m but after 1m your pent roof can peak at 3m ( as long as the peak isn't within 1m of boundary )
I actually got that slightly wrong it's within 1m of boundary and I'm meaning fencing in garden type of thing but 2m I think if it's next to someone's dwelling
@@handy4u431 Sorry I was quoting rules for England. I believe you are correct for outbuildings in Scotland. It's viewed slightly differently in favour of the developer where the building stretches beyond the 1m line. Lucky Scotland!
@@coops6621 the way I interpret the English rules is its 2.5m at the eaves and 4m maximum height for an apex and 3m on pent roofs and building can't take up more than 50% of garden
You explain everything so clear makes me wanna have a go in my garden
Ever get any shit from the neighbours Liam working on a Sunday? Our spark working on his own house was being dictated too when he could and couldn't chase his walls 😂. Betting you wouldn't stand for that.
Did you ever get any comeback on that one build you did you mentioned in the video the neighbours son was coming to check the height of the structure. Im guessing you didn't.
Keep up the great work
We didn’t start until around 8.30, if they have a problem after that, they’ll only get a polite , suck it up!!
The neighbour with the height issue, he got a council, f**k you letter as it was under pd rules , there’s a video somewhere. Thing is, as always, I tried to help, offered a free fence upgrade, bug he got aggressive, he lost, rules are rules 🙈🤣Hope he’s reading this one day, and realises that a friendly offer sometimes is the best option