Garden Room Workshop: Part 5. Timber floor
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Find the full series playlist here: bit.ly/2BiLSyC
Part 5 of a video series about how to self-build a timber-framed garden room office (aka tiny house)/wood workshop in the UK.
This video covers timber floor construction, joist hangers and attaching to the foundations.
The purpose of this video series is to provide all the information required for viewers to build their own garden room rather than just a montage of the building work. It took me months of research to learn everything in these videos so I hope to save people time and money.
The videos are a mix of theory and footage of the build including all the mistakes I made along the way. I am not a builder or tradesman, just a keen DIY-er with some basic tools. Everyone can do this!
In the longer term, I hope to turn this channel into a community for garden room self-builders and to eventually evolve into a woodworking projects channel- the real purpose of my garden room!
One thing I forgot to say in the video is to use the most twisted, cupped or warped timbers for the shorter pieces such as the noggins and keep the straightest timbers for lengthier uses!
Garden room ideas: workshop, office, games room, cinema room, art studio, music studio, yoga retreat, spare bedroom, annexe, run a home business such as yoga classes or hair salon.
🌍My website - www.alidymock.com
📸Instagram - / alidymock
💌 Email - hello@alidymock.com
Tools used:
Circular saw
Mitre saw
Reciprocating saw
Impact driver: www.screwfix.c...
Hammer
Tape measure: www.screwfix.c...
Folding Square: www.screwfix.c...
Speed square
Pencil
Clamps
Long-nosed pliers
Brush
Drill with masonary bit
Vacuum
Wrench
Safety: gloves, eye-wear, ear protection, dust mask
Materials used:
DPC
4.8m x 125mm x 47mm treated C16 carcassing timber.
Screws (100mm)
Square twist nails (30mm): www.screwfix.c...
Nails (100mm)
Wood preserver
Joist hangers: www.buildersme...
Screwbolts and washers: www.screwfix.c...
Heavy duty angle brackets: www.screwfix.c...
Wickes webpage to learn about timber (it was taken down by Wickes but a viewer found it archived -may take a while to load though):
web.archive.or...
Good websites to check prices for materials :
www.selcobw.com/
www.builderdepo...
You can download the span tables for floor and roof here: www.alidymock.c...
Music:
/ aka-dj-quads
Just re-watched this video in 2022. Heartbreaking seeing how cheap timber was 4 years ago! 😢
Snap
Even worse now
@@N_iko 😭😭
Hi Ali i wanted to congratulate you on your build for not being a tradesmen of any sort i'm a joiner myself and was amazed at your planning and attention to detail with no prior experience in the videos so far looking forward to seeing how you progress with the build well done so far.
Hi Ali, This is just exactly what I was looking for, great vids and content. As you mentioned all other vids are montages so this is by far one of the best series I've come across. Just watched all 5 vids and I'm hooked! Really interested in building my own (in summer) so can't wait till your finished, so that I'm all clued up. Thanx for sharing and keep up the good work mate.
Hey Tom, that's great feedback. Thanks! It's pretty cool to be able to build you own building that you can admire from your house forevermore! What will you use yours for?
Next vid out towards the end of this week.
You can now download the span tables for floor and roof here: www.alidymock.com/resources/
Top job on laying and squaring up your floor deck for sure the way i would have done it myself and i do this kind of work for living also good calls on both the joist hangers and twist nails there a great fixing nail for there size top work so far Ali enjoying watching your build come together so far big thumbs up :)
Much easier to nail the joist hangers on to the joist before fitting, I made the same cluster of clamps when doing mine and only realised after the fact
This series is brilliant . You've done a great job my friend and im just starting mine. Its your videos that have made me do it. A pool table has always been a little dream of mine and i will be there in 8 weeks i hope . Thanks for this
Notes:
I revise my thoughts on imperial vs metric spacings in Part 16.
And you can now download the span tables for floor and roof here: www.alidymock.com/resources/
Ali I wonder if you can help! COVID shut down my gym this year and I have next week to get something basic up to act as a platform so that I can have an individual client over to my garden to work out at a time.
We lift weights and I need to figure out the carcassing and thickness of ply.
The gym floor will 2.5m be 4.8m. Will space studs at 400mm and planning for 9 pier blocks at the foundation. Planning for 2-3 people in at a time with a maximum load of 100kg. The floor will also have 18mm rubber matting on the top.
Any ideas on the carcassing C/16 or C/24 and ply thickness - 12mm or 18mm?
@@meantraining9625 I'd say go for C24 and you need at least 18mm ply/OSB and one could argue for 22mm given that you may be dropping weights on it. Better safe than sorry I feel with that. An yeh, you'll want the matting on top. Concrete may be the better way to go though.
Ali thank you! Yeah I'm thinking concrete now! otherwise sketching up the framing now, hopefully get ordering and marking out the ground work next week. I've only ever built a bookshelf and general DIY till now lets hope its as logical as it looks haha!
@@meantraining9625 you'll do fine, it's okay to stop and just look at the build for 20 minutes to assess how things fit together and to choose options.
I have found the rubber roof material EPDM at my local pet shop, pond liner rubber for roofs wanted £380 I got it from a pet shop for £165 8mx5m.
interesting... is it the same thickness?
Struggling to find the right joist hangers. I'm new to this but all 47x125 hangers appear to be for masonry and have plates that sit on the top-side of the timber. Is this a problem when i comes to flooring on top of that? Anyone with an appropriate link would be massively appreciated.
The place where I bought them seem to have stopped selling them but, but it's no problem if you get the type that wrap over the top of the joist.
Am thinking of using 2x4 timber what would you recommend the foundation spacing be apart
Great set of videos. If you have the frames already screwed together how are you making any adjustment by lifting the frame to the right?
Hi, Sorry if I missed this in the videos or questions already asked. Did you ever consider using using i-joists or i-beams constructed made from engineered wood for your construction, or would you consider them overkill for a construction of this size. Thanks for the videos!
To be honest this building did not need fixing down! When its finished the weight will hold it their, I built a room 27 years ago only used 3 x 2 for the whole build its 24 feet by 14 feet its still standing never leaked!!!! I could not afford 4x2 or even 6x2 at the time but believe me you can do this so much cheaper!!
Hey Ali a question for you, how much did you pay for insulation? Now when I check the price for Celotex PIR 100mm thick 4×8′ sheets it cost 47 pounds...
Great video series Ali. One thing I don't understand is, how did you determine the spacing between the plinths? Using span tables to determine the length/spacing for the joists makes sense, but since your joists are attached to suspended beams how did you determine the length/spacing/capacity of those beams (which determined your spacing of plinths)? Each beam is suspended/spaced itself and is taking the load of several joists at a time.
Mate, you are a saviour. You dont realise how long ive been researching my build. Very similar to yours but smaller (4m x 3m). ihad so many problems and dilemmas that I coudnt find a solution for online...but your channel has addressed every single issue I couldn't work out. Cant thank you enough. Watching all your videos also highlighted some issues I hadn't considered , so has saved me massive headaches down the line. Cant see wait to see your finished build. I'm as far as the floor frame and have started cutting up insulation. Keep up the great work!
That's great Paul! Lovely feedback. You'll have to get in touch when it's done so I can give you a page on the website!
@@AliDymock Hi Ali, in your Part 9 video you have your roof make-up at 350mm which is fine, but it says you have a 230mm floor above ground level, am I missing something because 150mm is top of pier and then the floor make-up is 143mm ish giving you 293mm not 230mm, im just checking internal ceiling heights.
Just watching this video for umpteenth time 😂 when you build your four frames and adding the extra timber to all sides to achieve the size you want how are you fixing them together, coach bolts/ screws? Many thanks. Graham.
Another excellent video 👏 although I did feel a little “seasick’’ on occasions as the camera was moving around so quickly (but a small price to pay 😉)
heheh I was balancing on the timbers wearing flipflops so that's understandable
Hi Ali, I'm wondering about how to use the span tables to calculate specific cases of loads that I intend to put the floor joists under. So I understand Fd in this is the dead load, so the permanent load the wood will be under as a normal function such as flooring etc. Imposed load I understand relates to anything extra stress wise that it's put under. Such as people walking over it or furniture. I'm considering having a standing piano in my garden room so I'd want to design in a specially reinforced area with narrower spans or sturdier wood to give the correct strength. However I might be reading wrong. On this table it says max imposed load of 1.5kN per sq m. Converting N to Kg I read that as 150kg per sq m. So if I sit on a sofa with a rough area of 1m next to a friend and we're both around the 150kg mark...with the sofa have we now broken the imposed load limit? It just feels like a low number so thought I'd check in. I tried searching for span tables for higher imposed load limits but struggled a bit...I'm sure they exist though!
I’m on my phone so can’t do some detailed google search but there are calculators to change KN to Kg so you can actually calculate this properly BUT these spans and loads are for domestic floor joists, I.e anything you would consider having in your house you could have in your garden room if you follow the tables, grand pianos included!
Unless I'm missing something I cant see that it's necessary to attach the floor to the foundation blocks. The weight of the floor structure alone should prevent it from moving and once the room is build its not going anywhere.
FFS DONT I SAY DONT!!!! buy Wicks timber go to a proper timber merchant !
Hi can you tell mecwhat PC programme you used for planning this build?
Hi there. Amazing series.
Do you have an overall of breakout costs?
Brilliant stuff, about to start 16’x8’ workshop, will use this block method for foundation and two 8’x8’ frames.. thanks. Best video’s I’ve found for this.
Cheers Roy, best of luck with your build
Hey Ali, these vids are just what I was looking for! really excellent work man!! Coming from an absolutely zero construction background, I'd still love to attempt the same type of build. I understand for the most part but one section I couldn't wrap my head around, you had 6 separate timber floor sections and were bracing them to stop them from 'racking' - you were trying to square the individual sections by measuring diagonally, you then moved one section slightly and it was good, since the sections were already screwed together how did this make a difference and when you moved to screw the 6 sections together wouldn't this undo all your hard work (maybe not square anymore?)
Gosh it's a little while ago but I believe I braced each section with a cross timber once in square, moved them all into position, screwed all together to make one floor then removed the braces. I think it's explained in the vid, but perhaps not well enough?
Hi Ali, just wondering if I could possibly pick your brain please.
I'm in the process of building a garden room, 4.8mx4.8m.
I'm using ground screws, 20 ground screws has been installed.
In terms of timber, I was looking at 4x3 treated timber all around.
Would you say or know if 4x3 timber is stronger than using let say 4x2 or 5x2 timber, c16.
Any suggestions will be kindly welcome.
Many thanks
4x3 will certainly be stronger than 4x2 but can you get 4x3? I've not seen a span table with them in so I don't know the span...
Thanks Ali.
What OSB board did you use. Tongue and groove 18mm? Good job thanks
I made a mistake by leading the timber on slab not allowing a cavity space , but I added a dpm , now I am noticing water leak on the edge timbers , I am thinking to add dpm liquid to seal the timber from inside , any advise to overhaul this issue ?
Hi Ali. Thanks so much for your such in-depth videos they are absolutely brilliant. I'm building a 5m wide x 5.5m long studio and am going to follow your steps as they are so informative. I wondered if there was a reason you didn't use long timbers (6.5m and 5m) on the floor joists ? Was it due to the span requirements from the span tables ? I was hoping to make mine with 5.5m + 5m treated c24 5x2 timbers. Thanks in advance for your info. Bex
Great series, were the joist hangers a planning/building reg requirement or just good practice?
Using tanalised/pressure treated timber with normal yellow passivated screws can often cause the screws to corrode away to nothing in short order, especially when exposed to moisture.
Organic coated or stainless fasteners are the right choice. Be aware that stainless work hardens and has a lower shear strength than a lot of normal screws so it’s easier to snap then when driving them in, and way easier when backing them out again.
Pre-drilling is sometimes required with stainless.
Lots of the cheaper stainless screws available are A2 which isn’t as good as A4. It’s worth using A4 where budget permits.
Great info there, thanks! I'm glad I used joist hangers!
Too many adverts
Sorry, YT controls them. They put in as many as they think you'll be willing to watch. Sounds like they got it wrong in your case.
Fantastic videos ; can I ask please why you have triple thickness frame at both ends ?
Really enjoying this series, I'm watching them all. Very inspirational. Surprised you didn't buy more things to make your life easy. I would def have gotten myself a nailgun and a bigger square 😂 Im a sucker for a new tool
Yeh later on in the series I make the point about coming to realise that the right tool for the job is generally worth it. But with budget limited, you have to make do!
Hello again! Are the joists on the floor also 16” spacin on center like you did for the walls? I’m doing 400mm.
Yes they are. Yup 400mm is the best choice.
Good video with appalling music , why use any music at all?
music is far too loud
22mm coated t&g chipboard flooring.
No need to land on a joist and little waste.
Hello Ali
Some very useful videos - thanks. I wondered if I might pick your brain a little bit, about floor/weight spans etc on a timber floor?
I'm also building a summer house, that will be used as a gym. It's 5mx4m, and has a concrete slab base (nearly 7 tonnes worth!). The timber frame is sat directly on the concrete base, with a DPM between them. I've just installed the rigid insulation, and am getting to the first fix of wiring, internal vapour barrier, internal walls, and then flooring... This is my question:
How to best floor it?
I think my two options are basically:
1: Lay the rubber gym floor tiles straight onto the DPM, so that the concrete base is directly taking all of the weight of everything that will be inside (Power cage / Olympic weights / treadmill / rower / x-trainer etc etc). My query here isn't really about weight-bearing, but about moisture/heat-loss, that sort of thing....
2: Create a false floor, by simply laying 2" x 2" joists directly down onto the DPM / Concrete base, and insulate the gaps with some 50mm rigid insulation and then lay 18mm plyboard on top of joists to create the floor, and then lay the rubber floor matting on top of the plyboard.
I'm inclined to go for option 2, but in doing so, wondered about good/strong spacing between the 2x2 joists to take the weight of everything that will sit on top of it, bearing in mind that they are resting directly on the concrete slab. I always go super-strong as a general principle (roof joists are doubled up/paired 5x2's as the span is more than 3m, for example, to take the weight of the roof itself and a damn good full snowfall in the winter for example), so I was thinking the floor joists should have 300 or 400mm spacing?
Does it matter if they are laid front to back / side to side? (Genuinely don't know if that's even a relevant question!) I would also be inclined to chop up some additional 2x2 and insert them as spacers / noggins to keep them evenly spaced and secure.
Would be grateful for any thoughts on the flooring?
Many thanks in advance for any reply.
Hi you mention using ply or osb for the floor, could you have used moisture resistant chipboard allowing to work to metric dims? Thanks just wondering on best product use
Yeh for sure. Even regular chipboard is fine as long you are able to keep it dry. I wasn’t so opted for ply. All will do and the moisture resistant stuff will do well when wet.
You must have nice neighbors you only allowed 15sqm timber frame under permitted development anything over must be block work or bricks
31m2 under permitted development 2.5 high 1 metre from boundaries
Hello Ali, my design is 6mx3m building. I am thinking of doing 6 sections of 2mx1.5m for the floor. Do you think il be okay with 4x2 if I go with the C24 grade?
Hey Ali , following your awesome build to make my own 14x12 workshop...I’m sure I’ve not missed it but what size screws did you use for fixing your joists please? I saw the screwfix page with the 5x100mm did you just use those for everything? Cheers Ant
Hi Ali, maybe this might seem like a dumb question but what is the purpose of bolting the frame to the foundation. Surely the building is going to weigh quite a few tonnes and doubtful it'll move through things like wind. I only ask as I'm emulating your build but staying in the 15m 2.5m max rules and as every mm in height counts I've gone for 50mm clearing which means joints sit on bricks cemented on a concrete base and if I drill into the bricks I have a feeling they will break. What's your advice?
Hi Ali, I'm using your videos as a reference for making my own garden room (thanks btw!). Do you think it's best to decide the exact size you want first, or do the span table and standard timber lengths dictate a need for flexibility. For instance, given my available space, I want to build my room around 4.5m x 3m. But, with 400, 450, or 600 spacing, my length wouldn't come to exactly 4.5m. would you make the room slightly larger/smaller, or would it be ok to have one of the joists a shorter distance than the others? hope this was clear and comprehensible.
and are there any other reasons with particular lengths/widths of these rooms might be easier to work with?
Hi Ali, great videos just wondered why you used 3 timbers on the ends of the building. I can't find you saying it anywhere. Thanks!!
Would sips floors of been a better or cheaper option and quicker to install ?
What cameras are you using?
I'm using a Canon DSLR with a wide-angle lens and a GoPro Hero 4 with a head-strap. A few iPhone shots make it into the vids too...
Hi Ali, What a great really useful series. We moved house over 5 years ago and you have aspired me to empty the 18ft x 10ft concrete panel garage which I should have taken the contents to the dump at the time of moving. oops!!! I would like to extend the garage by a further 6ft making 24x 10 come summer house, gym and cinema room if planning allows. Could I please ask you what span /spacing you suggest for permitted for flooring my intention is to take down the garage door side and extend out. We have great river views and this project would certainly make our summer(day) up here in Scotland. Could I please ask regarding the subject of not buying a nail gun?
Hi Ali, thanks for the videos. Quick question. Why did you put the joists in place before attaching the joist hangers afterwards?
Hello Ali, I’ve watched you’re vids a number of times and you’ve convinced me to give it a go myself. I’m going to be making the same siz3 could you pleasedshare what quantities of materials I need. Thanks
Hi Ali. My garden room is monstrous. My son wants to put a 3/4 size snooker table in it . I'm having the canopy the same sizes as u on all sides. Thinking of a concrete base because of the weight of the table. The size I'm looking at is 8x6 metres. 3 m high in the front but not sure what height the rear should b. Can I get roof joists to span 6 metres with also the 60 and 15 over hang
What’s the reasoning behind doing the floor in sections? Why not just make one large grid? Also, in the video you say you double up the joists on the edges and under internal walls…but you have three rather than two on the short ends? Final question : ) when you’re squaring up you move one section around and it measures differently in the diagonal?? Is that not a finished frame? How is it changing shape when you push it around on top of the piers?
Ah you emailed me the same so I'll copy/paste my answer for others :)
Sure let’s tackle them:
1) You could definitely do one big grid but it seemed to me that to double up the joists where they intersected the block piers was a good idea for the strength of the floor. I could have instead had a wall run all the way down the middle of the site and had joists running over the top of it for support. The other reason to do it in sections was that it was much easier to ’square up’ each section individually and then attach them together than it would have been to square up the whole 6.5 x 5m floor - due to the weight and size.
2) 3 joists at the side - yes, now this was because my original intention was to have the walls sit on top of the joists directly rather than on the ply. I would then have fitted the ply inside of the walls for which I would have needed a third joist on either side to attach the ply to (the other two taken up by the width of the wall timber). I changed my mind and decided on fitting the ply across the whole floor instead to help smooth and level the surface that the walls would sit on and therefore the 3rd inner joist was made redundant. I nearly talked about it in the video but didn’t think anyone would notice or question it - I was wrong, many have 🤣
3) Umm, it is a finished frame but it can ‘rack’, i.e become like rhomboid. Once into rough position I could get it into square, secure the diagonal to keep it square, get it into final position and attached to the other sections and then finally when I know the whole floor is as one and square I could remove the diagonals. I think I was about 2mm out over the whole thing so pretty good, it worked well.
Hey Ali, hope you are ok and your workshop also. Would like to ask you what do you think to paint the wood frame with some protective product like Barrettine Wood Protective etc? Some of my friends recommend using "old style" to use black jack emulsion. I will build by summerhouse above very wet ground, it is just a garden inside estates but my garden is one of the last ones on the lowest points so all rain waters and general ground waters are present under. What do you think?
Great well considered videos, just what I’ve been looking for before starting my own project.
Hi where is the list of materials used. Just the joist supports
Really great video series! I've got a 4x4 concrete slab in the garden (not sure if it has DPC in it) which is level with the turf (so not raised). I've got to keep under 2.5m so I'm trying to work out how to lay the floor frame with the least height loss. I was thinking of using 100mm joists and sit them on 10mm rubber to lift them slightly off the slab. Would that work? Or would another approach be better?
Hi Ali. Really enjoying your videos. Just one question regarding the DPC over the concrete pillars. The overhang seems quite large and I wondered if there is a spec for this. I'd be concerned of rain water hitting the top of the DPC and running between the joist and the DPC. Interested to understand how this is controlled.
I love your channel! I'm one of the women who have watched them all. I will be the Project Manager/Designer - husband and I will do the build. We want to avoid Building Regs and Planning - because we have 4 protected trees and we are having to relocate our existing shed very close to them in order to put in garden room. Don't want to draw attention to ourselves. Our planned build would be something like 5.5m x 4.2m and because of the height restriction of 2.5m we would have been looking to reduce the depth of floor and keep a greater depth of insulation in the roof as it will be used as an office all year round. But from all of the information you have given presumably 50mm timbers wouldn't be sufficient? The garden room we were looking at buying only has a 45mm floor.
Can't wait to see your finished room - hope it is finished anyway.
Good to have you Karen!
Okay so remember that building regs U-values have gone up loads in order that new homes take much less energy to heat. So if you are buying one that doesn't meet the U-values for b regs it doesn't mean it won't be warm - you just might end up leaving the heater on for a couple extra hours during the day. As I said in one of the videos, even if you have the bare minimum of insulation it will be better than most houses. I just went for the high end so don't feel like you need to copy exactly :)
If the floor is only 45mm I presume it's designed to rest on a concrete slab?
@@AliDymockthanks for response - yes they recommend a concrete base - or their rapid grid foundation system. Another company we spoke to though didn't recommend concrete floor - as you need air circulation, and you can get warmth from the ground - but theirs was also only 45mm floor. That's why we're exploring self-build - we hope it will be better spec. If we were to use smaller joists - do we need more block pillars?
@@karenbirkett5634 I think the point about circulation is fair though in practice should be okay as long as no water gets on or between the floor and concrete base. You could opt just for a concrete base with walls fastened to it, less thermal efficient but cheaper initially.
Yes, the thinner the floor timbers the closer your pillars should be but I'd argue 45mm is far too thin. 2x4s (95mm) should be the minimum really.
If you are thinking of the 2.5m height, you could excavate downwards and have your floor sunk below ground level. I've seen another viewer who has done just that though of course it causes more potential for issues with circulation, damp etc
So so pleased to have stumbled across your videos. As others have said, they seem to be exactly what I need to enable me to actually make some progress. I have been bogged down the myriad of options and considerations. Thank you so much. I have binge watched to this point and look forward to continuing tomorrow.
Glad you like them! They get better as they go on as I learn to edit.
Ali Dymock Honestly the editing to this point has been well above average.
I will check out what channels you sub to, but my favourite for carpentry/construction is "Scott Brown Carpentry". Part of his appeal is the mix of editing, content and delivery. I think you demontrate all three too. Love the fact you drop into education bits, they add so much value to those of us who want to emulate you, not just be entertained.
@@andrewmason4004 Thanks dude, that guy was a good shout. I watched his decking tips video. Yeh I try to make them fun as informative while telling a story.
Hi Ali, where do you find out what dead load to expect when planning your project? Is there a general rule for single story garages not expecting to go above 0.5 dead load?
Great video, what’s the required timber for 4.7 span for roof joists?
Can I ask did you need to create pilot holes for the screws?
Hi could you use treated fence posts as floor joints
Wow, timber prices more than doubled since you've made this video ...
Great videos Ali. Can I just ask what the rough cost was at just before you put your rubber roof on? I'm a novice and in the planning stage of a 9m x 4m gym shed and wondering if I'm on the right track with materials and cost. Thanks!
This is very cool, thanks for sharing. Looking forward to the update. What part of the coutry you in? I'm looking at doing something similar in a Kent garden.
Mike o'donovan I’m in West London so not too far from you. It’s a great time to start thinking about a garden room as the summer is (slowly!) rolling around. At some point, if enough people are interested I may set up a Facebook page for people to share their garden room plans and pics and create a garden room community. This won’t be the last one I build! Hopefully the next vid will be out by the end of next week. 👍
Hey what's the black material between the wooden base & contreate block, great build 👍🏽
Hi mate how do you hide the dense blocks after wards? When the build is finished the dense blocks will be sitting proud off the building? Have you any tips on how to hide them?
Very god video best I have seen with all the info clearly explained on how to build such a floor thank you I have now subscribed to channel.
I might be wrong but assuming your walls drop down in front of your frames, you'll find your piers protrude beyond them. Despite your damp proofing on the pier, (which will only prevent rising damp from the ground), you may find the rain will run down the walls and onto the protruding pier. This will give rise to water possibly seeping underneath the frame at all the outer wall pier points. Then resulting in soaking and probably rotting the timbers at these sections. I would of ensured the piers were slightly inside, with the walls and floor timber protruding the piers to ensure a full run off.
When finished it his is the case you might want to look at some form of drip rail to take the rain water beyond the pier and thereby prefect these timbers.
I designed the piers to protrude a bit beyond the floor as the battens and cladding will take the walls past the blocks. However, I added some DPC to the walls to prevent what you say - see Part 12! 🙂
@@AliDymock that’s cleared that up just about to start preparing my base now
Thanks
Hi Ali, Great videos and very well researched info - I really enjoyed them. I have a question concerning my build.. I wonder if I could trouble you to a little advice please? I have laid a flat concrete base 6m x 6m and plan to put 4x2 laid flat on it. I thought I would add a membrane between concrete and the 4x2 wood floor base. could you recommend a material? also - If I then give excess around the edges and kind of lift up on the wall struts about a foot or so.. is this a good idea? or will it restrict airflow etc & cause problems? Many thanks if you get time...
Fantastic video series. V informative. What's the next project.
Absolute gold, thanks Ali for taking the time to make and share these. Been binging on this series over the last couple of weeks and today I start making my 18 feet x 10 feet Garden room with a lot more confidence thanks to your help!
Great to hear Jonny!
I'm looking to build another workshop in my garden, it was going to be 6m x 5m but i think i'll add another half metre so I can steal all your measurements!
Why not use a decent carpenters pencil so we can actually see it !
Love the pencil your using!! Ladbrokes special. Great videos by the way. They have been a great help so far. Love from Ireland 🇮🇪
This is the second time I am watching Ali's complete series - and I agree with the comment below, timber prices in fall of 2022 is ridiculous.
how did you buy from selco without a business?
Can you put the DPC under the concrete blocks instead of on top? I want to use piers and would be difficult to add DPC between these and the timber due to their design
Been looking for a channel like this good explanations looking forward to watching all the videos 👍
It’s Easter weekend and after many months of planning, consideration and thought I’ve started my build. 2 days in; piers are down, the base is built and I’m now enjoying a beer. Insulation and ply tomorrow, followed by a week of walls, roof and windows. I’ll be sure to send you pics for your website. Your videos showed me it can be done! Happy Easter!
Is the floor/foundation of this garden room sturdy enough to be used as a gym? Power Cage(70kg)+Weights(200kg)+User weight(~75kg). My main concerned would be all this weight being in a small part of the room while doing deadlifs. If I would drop a load of 150-200kg on the barbell from 0.7m would that damage the structure of the garden room? Btw your DIY videos are amazing. Keep up the good work! :)
Hi, I'm in process of building a garden gym and more or less following Ali's videos and set-up. My kg's are similar to yours for the cage weight and plates, although i'm about 10kg heavier than you (diet never my strong point....). I've decided to use thicker ply for the floor (22mm) and I will also put extra noggins between the floor joists in the part of the room that will house the rack. I think this will be sufficient. Could also build a deadlift platform in due course. I have an aversion to dropping deadlifts, preferring to get the additional workout from a slowish eccentric movement. That said, if you're going for a one rep max sometimes it's impossible not to drop it!
Great videos really are a lot of help. I was wondering why have you tripled up on the timbers are one end on the floor instead of double? Thanks
Good eye. It was because I had initially planned for the wall to sit right on the joists and then fill in the middle with ply so would have need the third joist on each side. In the end I decided to cover all with ply first (part 6) then sit the walls on the ply so 2 joists on the side would have been fine.
@@AliDymock ah makes sense, thanks for clearing that up mate your video's have been a huge help
@@AliDymock I'm so glad I found this explanation. It was killing me once I spotted it :)
Thank you so much I love watching your videos because so much details and very clam
Screwfix pencil thief! 🤣🤪
if you had used nails instead of screws to secure the floor joists would you still have fitted the joist hangers?
Yeh I think I would have as nails can bend. I err towards over-engineering for the floor and foundations. You can be a bit more relaxed for the rest of the build.
Good video but shame I have to turn the volume down every time that music comes on, then up again when it finishes!
Hello Ali. Once again I'm looking at your videos for guidance. I have a general question for you if you have a moment. I'm just wondering whats a reasonable margin for error on a project like this in terms of framing and levelling the base. It's my first time doing a project of this size and its a little intimidating. I have my 3x3m base all finished now and I'm about to start the walls. I put the dumpy level on the base to make sure it was still level after I put the flooring on and there are a couple of high and low spots. we are talking 3m difference between the lowest and the highest here so nothing catastrophic (at least i hope anyway). I would just like your take on things
3mm isn't much at all, don't worry about, you'll never notice it. Most houses are a bit wonky too :)
My garden falls down one side ,does my 2.5 height get taken from the down slope ie that would be the lowest point adjacent to my property.? Or will it be taken from the opposite side ,which is around a block height shorter than the sloping side ...
My garden room is 4300 deep x 7300 long ...um setting the blocks at every 2000 in squares ..using 4x2 is that okay?
@@AliDymock Thanks again mate
Great project, great narration. Do you need planning for such a large shed? 5mx6m = 30m2 or is this 2x 15m2 sheds with a common base? I'm looking to do a similar project (one man and no dog) power tools, foundation being concrete block and then timber frame.... but I thought 15m2 was max.
Part 2 is the video for you. I go over the permitted development and b regs rules. You're referring to b regs here. I did go for planning to get 50cm extra height but no need for b regs as internal floor space less than 30m2 but there is a boundary wall issue that needs sorting when building with timber frame which I will get to in a future video.
This great stuff. Thank you.
Hi Ali, I've been following your videos pretty religiously and your videos have been then only ones that show a full start to finish build! I am planning on making a garden room (workshop, storage, and rec room) to be about 3m wide by 9m long. I was going to use 4x2 treated c24 timber for the floor joists and throughout the build, I checked the span tables and they should be okay but is 4x2 good or should I go for 5x2? Planning to use OSB 18mm for the floor, 11m for the ceiling and 9mm for the walls. Thanks, if anyone else has some good recommendations then please let me know!
Cheers!
4x2s are fine, it obviously depend on your support spacing though. For a really solid floor see if you can source 22mm OSB. Not a must but I think would have been an improvement on mine - bloody heavy though!
Dear Ali, as others mentioned, one one the best series for Diyer.
Please guide:
1) My dimensions are 6.7m x 4.45m = 29.81 Sq M in order to avoid Building Reg. Is it correct to avoid them
2) You mentioned that you consulted Planning Officer that Non Combustable Cladding will be used on exterior to avoid Build Reg objection. Was it cleared by Build Reg since I would replicate the same? Purpose is to avoid Build Reg.
3) Unlike yours mine will have its back wall already made of brick since its part of house rear wall.
Total building work:
A) Two side walls of 4.5m wide x 3m high (estimated time to finish 1-2 days)
B) Main front wall (opening towards garden) have either Bifold or a french door, 4 meters wide x 2.1m high. (1-3 days)
C) Roof and base floor exactly like yours. (5-7 days)
Q: If I assign this work to an experience builder, can two people complete this work in maximum14-15 works?
Many thanks
Hi, I see you've sent the same message to my email so will reply to that when I have a minute. Cheers
How do you stop mice and rodents chewing there way through the floor
By far the best video on the topic
Ali, great series, one question; why not cement the blocks down, which anchors the build for storm, im planning an apex roof with a big overhang for creating space for log storage. Is it because the build is so heavy even freak weather wouldn't lift it? Im old enough to remember the 1987 storm, quite a few sheds tumbling down the roads lol
I did cement between the blocks but not to the hardcore underneath if that's what you mean. In hindsight I would have or at least poured concrete around the blocks to make sure they were really secure.
Really informative video - thanks for sharing. PS I really like the music but couldn’t find the track using your link in the description???
weirdly it's linking to someone else despite the name in the URL so google DJ Quads, I can't remember the exact song though, sorry!
Seriously good stuff
Thank you
These are great videos which I am working my way through, very informative, great detailed information which I will be referring to when I build my shed when the weather improves. Really enjoying seeing each stage come together. Thank you.