thanks for the knowledge transfer. Best detail for body work on the net. Now if I could only get the damn bathroom remodel done I could get on my 73 square body.
Good work! I went through this process a while back. Spent 2 days on aligning the front end. 1st day got everything 90%. 2nd day, I dialed everything in further.
I think I’m in good shape now but before I finish the bodywork on the outside of the fenders, I will put the cowl panel and hood on. That way I can get that last bit dialed in for good
I have seen the inside of the fenders or wheel house, but curious what textured black product is in this area. I will most likely use Raptor as my wallet won’t let me walk into a PPG store. Thanks as these areas need a quality product now and annual maintenance after! DK, Omaha
@@StoutCustom I have way to many aftermarket and factory stuff, crack, peel but hold water where no one wants it. I prefer the Raptor product because it is catalyzed and sticks tough. They offer an epoxy in the same brand lineup. No “Butyl’s” listed in the MSDS pages. Have a good 2022 as mine is medically on hold after electrode implants during 6 day trial went up into my lumbar. Then they placed the same electrodes but put the stimulator inside now goes down in calves & heels. 9 setting changes and 5 software updates since Jan and have not heard from the 85 year old Dr. who skipped a step during last surgery. I think he’s waiting for his attorney to be released from the penitentiary in Sept.
Its really hard to get the gaps right on these old trucks....especially when they were not all that great from the factory. They were never intended to be show trucks and they often end up better than when they rolled off the assembly line!
It’s hard to explain without showing you. They didn’t fit great from the factory so you may have to slot hinge holes, shim, beat n bang, twist…it’s a pain but can be done. If I get a chance I’ll make a video at some point. Thanks for watching!
Nice work I've done 5 square bodies over the past two years and doing one right now with two after it but 4 out of the 5 had the pass rear corner was a quarter to a half low not sure why it's always the passenger side low.
Thats interesting Larry. Before and after I just put body bushings in. I was sighting over the hood, through the windows and it seemed like my body was low on the passenger side. I changed the bushings and its still low. You can literally view it through the rear glass horizontally with the tailgate and its like Hmmm something don't see right. Now I'm gonna look into it more tomorrow while I have my K20 on 4 jack stands, not the mushy tires. I also just put a new lift kit in it and all new poly spring bushes as well and it was still low. Good to know that I am not crazy.
i have to do this but i have a car where the hood hinges are covered by the fender cowls. so once you tighten down the fenders and align them, you cannot adjust the hood anymore, so i have NO idea how im going to do the alignment on the front end of this car. it seems like a nightmare, and i have no starting point either. no base to begin with.
Thank you! I cut out about 2 1/2" which raised the inner fenders up. Then I filled in what was left to smooth it out. Lots of work, not sure if I would do it again, lol. Thanks for watching!
I honestly don’t measure the gap. I go for what looks good to me. These trucks have fairly large gaps and they aren’t very consistent so I get them as even all the way around as I can. If I were to do a “show truck” squarebody I may add some metal to tighten them up but not on a driver.
I believe it was a 5/8 shaft collar. It was just something I had laying around. I believe they go on an electric motor shaft and have a set screw to hold them in place in the shaft. It probably came from Ace hardware or tractor supply. Thanks for watching!
I did a 67 C10 “show truck project” in a similar blue. It was Volkswagen Denim Blue. This one is a little darker and greyer blue from Toyota, Smoky Blue. Thank you and thanks for watching!
Hey brother, I have an 84 K-10..... Somebody pulled out in front of me and it bent the right front frame horn.... Have you got any suggestion on fixing that.... I will try anything but take it to a frame shop, here in east TN, they want WAYYYY to much to fix it....
To get it right you may have to take it to one. It really depends on how bad it’s bent. Might be easier and cheaper to do a frame swap if you can find a good donor. Hard to say without measuring it out. If it’s just the end of the frame there should be someone that can fix it but it’s gonna cost a bit to get it done right. Might try to find someone who builds totals and resell them. Those guys can usually do that type of work. Check with your local automotive paint supplier and see if they know of someone.
@@Chad_N_Stacey_Hopson the frame needs to be measured to see if the impact affected more than just the frame horn. If the rest is fine, the horn will have to be straightened by pulling, heating, and beating. It may need to be cut off and a new horn welded on. Either way you will have to do it or pay someone to do it. Going to be a challenge either way
There are lots of options for frame paint. I put PPG’s essentials EST900 DTM chassis black on mine. It seems very durable and is direct to metal so I didn’t have to epoxy first. POR 15 has a chassis black and so does Eastwood’s. The EST900 had a little more gloss than I would have thought for a chassis black. All of it will work so it’s up to you. I would read through the application process of each and see what works for your situation. Some will require a primer/epoxy, some will be one step, some will help convert rust if it’s present. Pick the one that works best for you.
thanks for the knowledge transfer. Best detail for body work on the net. Now if I could only get the damn bathroom remodel done I could get on my 73 square body.
Get er done! Lol
Great video thanks for sharing your knowledge it looks great
Thanks Bud! 👍
Looking good. Gotta love the tedious work!
Yep. All part of it, lol.
awesome video, fenders look nice!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Good work! I went through this process a while back. Spent 2 days on aligning the front end. 1st day got everything 90%. 2nd day, I dialed everything in further.
I think I’m in good shape now but before I finish the bodywork on the outside of the fenders, I will put the cowl panel and hood on. That way I can get that last bit dialed in for good
Awesome video man!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I have seen the inside of the fenders or wheel house, but curious what textured black product is in this area. I will most likely use Raptor as my wallet won’t let me walk into a PPG store. Thanks as these areas need a quality product now and annual maintenance after! DK, Omaha
Any bedliner material works. There’s also rubberized undercoat but I’m not a fan
@@StoutCustom I have way to many aftermarket and factory stuff, crack, peel but hold water where no one wants it. I prefer the Raptor product because it is catalyzed and sticks tough. They offer an epoxy in the same brand lineup. No “Butyl’s” listed in the MSDS pages. Have a good 2022 as mine is medically on hold after electrode implants during 6 day trial went up into my lumbar. Then they placed the same electrodes but put the stimulator inside now goes down in calves & heels. 9 setting changes and 5 software updates since Jan and have not heard from the 85 year old Dr. who skipped a step during last surgery. I think he’s waiting for his attorney to be released from the penitentiary in Sept.
Its really hard to get the gaps right on these old trucks....especially when they were not all that great from the factory. They were never intended to be show trucks and they often end up better than when they rolled off the assembly line!
Agreed. I’m trying not to get to crazy on this one. It’s mine and I can live with it not being perfect.
Agreed. I’m trying not to get to crazy on this one. It’s mine and I can live with it not being perfect.
Great video! How do you adjust the door to align up with the cab and fender?
It’s hard to explain without showing you. They didn’t fit great from the factory so you may have to slot hinge holes, shim, beat n bang, twist…it’s a pain but can be done. If I get a chance I’ll make a video at some point. Thanks for watching!
@10:29 "closing up" aka SCIENCE 😆
Lol
Nice work
I've done 5 square bodies over the past two years and doing one right now with two after it but 4 out of the 5 had the pass rear corner was a quarter to a half low not sure why it's always the passenger side low.
Probably just the way these things were made back in the day. The tolerances definitely were pretty loose. Thanks for watching!
Thats interesting Larry. Before and after I just put body bushings in. I was sighting over the hood, through the windows and it seemed like my body was low on the passenger side. I changed the bushings and its still low. You can literally view it through the rear glass horizontally with the tailgate and its like Hmmm something don't see right. Now I'm gonna look into it more tomorrow while I have my K20 on 4 jack stands, not the mushy tires. I also just put a new lift kit in it and all new poly spring bushes as well and it was still low. Good to know that I am not crazy.
Solid 👍
🤜
i have to do this but i have a car where the hood hinges are covered by the fender cowls. so once you tighten down the fenders and align them, you cannot adjust the hood anymore, so i have NO idea how im going to do the alignment on the front end of this car. it seems like a nightmare, and i have no starting point either. no base to begin with.
That sounds like a pain. Probably a lot of trial and error
Looking 👍
Thank you!
GREAT VIDEO ! I love the look of the inter fenders. Did you fill all holes are did you buy new? Where?
Thank you! I cut out about 2 1/2" which raised the inner fenders up. Then I filled in what was left to smooth it out. Lots of work, not sure if I would do it again, lol. Thanks for watching!
Jim, are you looking for 1/4" gap all around the doors and fenders and cab
I honestly don’t measure the gap. I go for what looks good to me. These trucks have fairly large gaps and they aren’t very consistent so I get them as even all the way around as I can. If I were to do a “show truck” squarebody I may add some metal to tighten them up but not on a driver.
Do you have a video on door alignment?
No specific video for that. It's on my "to do" list and sounds like a good excuse to buy another truck, lol. Thanks for watching!
What kind of shim did you put behind the bottom side of the driver door.
I believe it was a 5/8 shaft collar. It was just something I had laying around. I believe they go on an electric motor shaft and have a set screw to hold them in place in the shaft. It probably came from Ace hardware or tractor supply. Thanks for watching!
Yes sir. I was wondering because I have a gap about the same size
Nice work, very informative! Is it my imagination or did you do an Action Series truck in that same light blue in 2021? What color is that?
I did a 67 C10 “show truck project” in a similar blue. It was Volkswagen Denim Blue. This one is a little darker and greyer blue from Toyota, Smoky Blue. Thank you and thanks for watching!
Hey brother, I have an 84 K-10..... Somebody pulled out in front of me and it bent the right front frame horn.... Have you got any suggestion on fixing that.... I will try anything but take it to a frame shop, here in east TN, they want WAYYYY to much to fix it....
To get it right you may have to take it to one. It really depends on how bad it’s bent. Might be easier and cheaper to do a frame swap if you can find a good donor. Hard to say without measuring it out. If it’s just the end of the frame there should be someone that can fix it but it’s gonna cost a bit to get it done right. Might try to find someone who builds totals and resell them. Those guys can usually do that type of work. Check with your local automotive paint supplier and see if they know of someone.
@@StoutCustom IT'S BASICALLY ALL THE METAL IN FRONT OF THE FRONT OF THAT BRACE THAT IS BELOW THE RADIATOR....
@@Chad_N_Stacey_Hopson the frame needs to be measured to see if the impact affected more than just the frame horn. If the rest is fine, the horn will have to be straightened by pulling, heating, and beating. It may need to be cut off and a new horn welded on. Either way you will have to do it or pay someone to do it. Going to be a challenge either way
@@StoutCustom I guess ill put it on the back burner and continue to work on the 71'.... Lol
Is it true factory fenders stick out a little more than the doors to reduce noice
Not that I’m aware of. Sounds like a good excuse if I can’t get one to lign up though, lol.
@@StoutCustom That's factory specs was told. Helps sell a vehicle with less air noise
What kind of paint for the frame would you recommend?
There are lots of options for frame paint. I put PPG’s essentials EST900 DTM chassis black on mine. It seems very durable and is direct to metal so I didn’t have to epoxy first. POR 15 has a chassis black and so does Eastwood’s. The EST900 had a little more gloss than I would have thought for a chassis black. All of it will work so it’s up to you. I would read through the application process of each and see what works for your situation. Some will require a primer/epoxy, some will be one step, some will help convert rust if it’s present. Pick the one that works best for you.
👍
👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽
Thank you!
I have a k10 the fit and finish of these trucks was just garbage
Yeah some were better than others but overall, not great.