Gaps being off was driving me nuts. Previous owner didnt even try to get it right but this Video was a huge help. Well better go get myself a 12 pack tommorow and finish this 74.
Dave, if it is on the Blazer dealing with gaps, you covered it. Measuring frame, cab to frame, perhaps tap & die set to clean the threads (I like a Q-tip and anti seize, protect the edges, bushings... Dave; You are a benefit and Edgar is a great helper & asset to this fitment video! Congrats to both of you! DK, Omaha.
Shim, shimmeny, it’s tedious work but worth the effort. It’s much better to have the panels aligned then having gaps and wind whistles. Thanks David! Awesome tutorial on Square body fender and door alignment.
Dave is a great teacher. One of the best on UA-cam for the common truck enthusiast DIY'er. Kevin Tetz is another one in this realm (professionally shot work in studio garages). Derek Bieri and Thomas Mortske are also greats!
Thank you sir for your explanations. These have been the best educational tutorials I've ever seen. Sure wish you were my neighbor cause I could use your brain on my 72 C10 restoration
I'm doing a frame off on a 53 Chevy 3100. I have never seen a video that didn't have tips I can apply to my build. The rubber edging is a much better idea than tape. assembling newly painted parts is nerve racking enough. Thank you for your time.
Thanks Dave first part of video really does make sense about using rubber strip lines as markings for door & fender reassembly on classic GM truck also good tip about radiator core support which is 4 or 6 hand person job.
GM squares have holes in frame and body supports in alignment with each other you can stick a pry bar in for shifting the body around on the frame with.
Hawaiian blue and frost gloss white two tone.. my grandpa had a 79 Chevy K10 Scottsdale long bed regular cab and it was the same colors even a white roof.
The reason he had to move the hinges up to get the hood to go down. The hinge spring is pulling the hood up when the bracket is too low. When the hinge is moved up the spring goes pass the hinge center pivot point resulting in the spring pulling the hood down. I would also lubricate the hinges with engine oil to free up the hinges, it would permit the hood to seek it final resting place without sticking.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV You also mention that the hood would buckle the first time you tried to close the hood. That is a manufacture design to prevent the hood from going into the windshield. The back corner of the hood area there is a large bolt sticking up from the cowl. With the hood close the bolt goes through a hole behind the hood hinges. During a frontal impact the hood shift rearward. The cause the slots on the back of the hinge to grab the bolts on the cowl causing the hood to buckle, instead of going through the windshield.
I found that my height adjustable stools are perfect for hanging doors😂 With one hand I can hold/balance the door on the padded stool and thread in the bolts with the other hand.
Running into the same issue on my ‘79 c20 pickup.. hinge has no more adjustment. Did you just grab some washers to shim the door or is there a part number for the shims
I wish I had seen this video sooner, I feel like I should take my fenders off and re adjust my doors now… as much as I tried I couldn’t get the bottom of the doors to pull in.
You probably know the answer to my problem. I purchased a 73 GMC 3/4 ton Camper Special with no bed and a rusty cab, so I put a good bed and a decent cab from a Chevy C10 2WD. The Cab mounts for a 3/4 ton leave the back of the cab sticking up too high, but using rear mounts for a 1/2 ton 2WD have it too low at the back. I know how to shim, but are there any differences between the 1/2 ton 2WD cab and the others? What about the frame at the cross member that the rear of the cab mounts to?
That characteristic of the hood is due to safety concerns - they didn't want the back edge of the hood to come through the windshield and act like a draw knife. You can bolt or even weld metal strap across that area so that it won't fold. Before painting of course.
Why didn’t you show the inner fenders. That’s what I was waiting to see. Also get your camera a little closer when showing detail work. I’ve noticed it on a few videos that the camera doesn’t zoom in close enough. Sorry some of us don’t see well. Nice looking blazer tho.
The reason the hood has the "fold" spot is because of the crash dummies. when the square body was designed, the first hood did not have the weak spots designed into the hood frame work. Come test dummy time... The truck had two test dummies, one behind the drivers wheel, the other in the passenger seat. The truck did a front collision at whatever speed they test at. AS the front end begins to crush (by design), the hood would be pushed backwards. The hinges would break away and the hood would push through the windshield and would "guillotine" into the necks of the crash dummies and remove the heads from the bodies. The hoods were designed with a weak spot in the middle, so when the truck is in a crash, the weak spot would fold like a taco, preventing the hood from flying into the cab and endangering the driver and passenger.
Beautiful truck. It's really fun watching it come together.
Gaps being off was driving me nuts. Previous owner didnt even try to get it right but this Video was a huge help. Well better go get myself a 12 pack tommorow and finish this 74.
I was having trouble with my 76 after complete disassembly and paint job. Thank you for making this video!
Dave, if it is on the Blazer dealing with gaps, you covered it. Measuring frame, cab to frame, perhaps tap & die set to clean the threads (I like a Q-tip and anti seize, protect the edges, bushings...
Dave; You are a benefit and Edgar is a great helper & asset to this fitment video!
Congrats to both of you!
DK, Omaha.
Shim, shimmeny, it’s tedious work but worth the effort. It’s much better to have the panels aligned then having gaps and wind whistles.
Thanks David! Awesome tutorial on Square body fender and door alignment.
Thanks bud!
Dave is a great teacher. One of the best on UA-cam for the common truck enthusiast DIY'er. Kevin Tetz is another one in this realm (professionally shot work in studio garages). Derek Bieri and Thomas Mortske are also greats!
Thanks man!
I needed this video badly. Thank you !
Our pleasure!
Dave I am so impressed with you knowledge and professionalism. Your video's are so awesome..,,
Thank you very much for the videos. 85 c30 got it with 65000 original miles. Headers x pipe dual plain intake double pumper chirps 2nd . GM#1
Thank you sir for your explanations. These have been the best educational tutorials I've ever seen. Sure wish you were my neighbor cause I could use your brain on my 72 C10 restoration
How is your 72 comin along? I'm currently replacing rocker panels and so on, on mine.
I'm doing a frame off on a 53 Chevy 3100. I have never seen a video that didn't have tips I can apply to my build. The rubber edging is a much better idea than tape. assembling newly painted parts is nerve racking enough. Thank you for your time.
Our pleasure!
David, you nailed it. What a great, informative video. In fact, all your videos are the best out there. Thank you Sir!!!
Wow what a video. Wish this was available when I put back together a 2nd gen camaro. What a nightmare.
Thanks Dave first part of video really does make sense about using rubber strip lines as markings for door & fender reassembly on classic GM truck also good tip about radiator core support which is 4 or 6 hand person job.
These videos are so helpful as I'm working on my truck. Thank you!
Thank you for the great video! I’m currently building a c10.
the rubber on the edge is a great idea! that dab at the end though 😃
Glad you like it!
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Me too! Assembling my front fenders and hood now. great video Dave!
احلى ما انتجته الولايات المتحده الامريكيه سيارات قويه وجباره وتتحمل
Great job , a lot of good tips , David thanks
Great job explaining everything
Thanks man!
GM squares have holes in frame and body supports in alignment with each other you can stick a pry bar in for shifting the body around on the frame with.
This was very helpful. Thanks
Thanks for watching
Thank you for this
Great instruction! Thank you! Subscribed
Thanks!
Another great video
What happened to the regular video updates? Haven’t seen a new one in a while now. They were so helpful.
Hawaiian blue and frost gloss white two tone.. my grandpa had a 79 Chevy K10 Scottsdale long bed regular cab and it was the same colors even a white roof.
Nice!
You are a gift.
The reason he had to move the hinges up to get the hood to go down. The hinge spring is pulling the hood up when the bracket is too low. When the hinge is moved up the spring goes pass the hinge center pivot point resulting in the spring pulling the hood down. I would also lubricate the hinges with engine oil to free up the hinges, it would permit the hood to seek it final resting place without sticking.
Thanks for the detailed explanation!
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV You also mention that the hood would buckle the first time you tried to close the hood. That is a manufacture design to prevent the hood from going into the windshield. The back corner of the hood area there is a large bolt sticking up from the cowl. With the hood close the bolt goes through a hole behind the hood hinges. During a frontal impact the hood shift rearward. The cause the slots on the back of the hinge to grab the bolts on the cowl causing the hood to buckle, instead of going through the windshield.
@@jamesvenneberg6273 wow!! Interesting
😂😂 the dab at the end thoughhhh
Where did you find the new foam in front of the doors? Running from top to bottom on cab between the door and the quarter panel.
Dave’s got cool hair.
I wish I had Dave’s hair.
Good vid Dave very informative.
Thanks for watching!
I found that my height adjustable stools are perfect for hanging doors😂 With one hand I can hold/balance the door on the padded stool and thread in the bolts with the other hand.
Running into the same issue on my ‘79 c20 pickup.. hinge has no more adjustment. Did you just grab some washers to shim the door or is there a part number for the shims
I wish I had seen this video sooner, I feel like I should take my fenders off and re adjust my doors now… as much as I tried I couldn’t get the bottom of the doors to pull in.
learned the hard way, i had everything painted and edges covered with tape and chipped the front edge of my door. that rubber would have helped.
Hard lesson for sure!
Good stuff
You probably know the answer to my problem. I purchased a 73 GMC 3/4 ton Camper Special with no bed and a rusty cab, so I put a good bed and a decent cab from a Chevy C10 2WD. The Cab mounts for a 3/4 ton leave the back of the cab sticking up too high, but using rear mounts for a 1/2 ton 2WD have it too low at the back. I know how to shim, but are there any differences between the 1/2 ton 2WD cab and the others? What about the frame at the cross member that the rear of the cab mounts to?
Some frames get bent a bit in the area between the cab and bed
Need help aligning 67-72 doors and fenders thanks !!
All the same concepts apply. Also, check out out other front sheetmetal alignment video for even more in depth techniques.
31:00 couldn't have been said any better
Where do you get that edging?
Local hardware store or Amazon
That characteristic of the hood is due to safety concerns - they didn't want the back edge of the hood to come through the windshield and act like a draw knife. You can bolt or even weld metal strap across that area so that it won't fold. Before painting of course.
where can I get the rubber edge?
Hardware store or auto parts store. Also available on Amazon
😎👍
Why didn’t you show the inner fenders. That’s what I was waiting to see. Also get your camera a little closer when showing detail work. I’ve noticed it on a few videos that the camera doesn’t zoom in close enough. Sorry some of us don’t see well. Nice looking blazer tho.
verry cool Guy 🇺🇲🇺🇲🇩🇪
The reason the hood has the "fold" spot is because of the crash dummies.
when the square body was designed, the first hood did not have the weak spots designed into
the hood frame work.
Come test dummy time...
The truck had two test dummies, one behind the drivers wheel, the other in the passenger seat.
The truck did a front collision at whatever speed they test at.
AS the front end begins to crush (by design), the hood would be pushed backwards.
The hinges would break away and the hood would push through the windshield and would "guillotine" into the necks of the crash
dummies and remove the heads from the bodies.
The hoods were designed with a weak spot in the middle, so when the truck is in a crash, the weak spot would fold
like a taco, preventing the hood from flying into the cab and endangering the driver and passenger.
The clips you where referring to are call jesus clips
Worried about scratching paint. Sets fender on bare concrete. 😅😅
Wish i would have found this video about 18 months ago