It is one thing to hang sheet metal, weld with the gaps correct. Body work completely different but then paint. You are a hero in my book of men. DK, Omaha. Air brush, build rotisserie, camera, lights, edit... I am sure he grills and smokes as well!
@@StoutCustom Jim, resting as per Dr's orders after 5 injections, 1 per day. After watching this again, you have taught many lessons. #1 The "P" sheets can be studied for the amount of primer of paint needed. Lesson; How much product do I need? #2 You covered as to be comfortable, raise, lower car or chair as need. #3 Solid colors in jambs, under hood and other locations seen and not compared like lower center of cab back. Could save money if cheaper and no clear. #4 The folded tape for soft edge and if done right, paper or plastic won't come loose if taped over. Leaving the pinch weld open during tapping helps eliminate water leading to rust. #5 The time management issue. As you had shown the sun going down, it reminded me that if first time painters write down their "Stop / Start time, flash time and number of coats can help a new painter figure out if the have time to start a new product or wait. Plus, if wait, what happens next as "P" sheets tell how much time the product is open before it has to be re-sanded or simply continue spraying paint in "XX" number of hours after sprayed. A full page "Time" note could be taped to wall of paint booth or paper / plastic on window or unharmed location on the vehicle. This way there is forgetting or guessing. #6 Leaving, allowing time to clean up. Remove tape while wet pulling down or away, handling these materials as touch & temp from "P" sheet would allow a painter to finish at the vehicle, but clean those expensive guns, paint mix area clean up, remove spills while wet before hard and near impossible to remove since paint remover is less than Ajax. But all needed, has to be done and if my son (38) is any example, never thought of it! You are the professional and I look up to you and do pay attention. But that material alone is enough to make a 40 minute video just using some old footage (Yah, like tape or super 8) Maybe I just think too much or not enough. Thanks Jim!
Great work. You make it look easy. I’ve watched all your videos and have primed and blocked mine to help lower cost to paint but I think I’m going to paint it myself now.
Thanks Scott. Painting can be extremely challenging but extremely satisfying as well. If you’re up for the challenge I say go for it. With some good planning and patience you might surprise yourself. Thanks for watching!
I’ve been off the computer for awhile I thought this truck was already painted? I’m a learning painter and body man in progress. I went through 4 hoods before I found one worth using. What I found for separation of hood frame a sheet metal was liquid nails. Turn the hood upside down supporting it on the sides and carefully put it between the lose areas it makes final blocking and finish much easier!
Interesting. I might have to give the liquid nails a try. I had painted the cab and some of the jambs before but decided to get rid of the painted on mouldings. Next…the bed. Thanks for watching!
Ya done good man. You make it look like us knotheads could do it but my common sense tells me I am not nearly ready lol. I did get my cab of my 70 c/10 in uretane primer now and it looks good but took a lot of time to get it there and looking at the whole picture I have barely started,but you have inspired me so I am going after the doors next. I hope I live a long life at the rate I am going hehehe
It’s a great tool. Saves a ton of money over the old D.A.R.T 3M foam stuff we used to use if you ever messed with that stuff. Glad it’s working for you and thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom love the contents been paint my 78 to for about the same time as yours used you videos for idea and fitment advise lined up pefectly just working on the hood now show be ready for paint buy the end of the months
beautiful like always, my wife wants to do my 86 k10 blue and white same way lower portion white. She liked a pearl white and a heavy metallic sonic blue I think? Love the videos buddy always watch em.
@@StoutCustom she always does, she picked the metallic green for my 79 trans am, and then all the rest. I did pick the orange for my dad's 84 c10 and she hates it
@@mitchelldickens9702 I prefer to paint things apart if possible. However on this truck I wanted to paint the jambs with single stage and the outside with base/clear. There is also the added dimension of two toning. Two tones can be painted apart but require more measuring and a little guesswork so lining up the two tone lines is of course easier if it’s together. Color has to be factored in to the equation as well. Some colors are easy to match when the pieces are painted apart while others such as tri-coats have greater risk of not matching if painted apart. If it’s an easy color, not two tone, and it’s all getting sprayed with the same paint system then there is less masking and zero tape lines if painted apart. Simply put it together and you’re done. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
In one of your videos, the hood would deflect in one particular spot as you were sanding it I have the same issue. Is that because the hood skin has come loose from the structure beneath? If so, would it be beneficial to spray foam between the hood and structure if I can determine where the two have separated?
Yes either it has come loose or it was never attached. SEM as well as other companies make a flexible foam that works well for this. Just like any expanding foam it makes a mess so be prepared. Regular hardware store spray foam is not a good idea. It can expand too much and push the metal out too far. It’s also not flexible so if you press on it and it collapses you are right back where you were. You can just find something to use as a temporary spacer to use while you block the hood then remove it when you are done. A paint paddle or bondo spreader may work for this. Just fill the gap enough to keep it from flexing and not put too much outward pressure on the hood. Hope this helps and as always thanks for watching!
Great content! You're really good at explaining each step for those of us without experience. Someday I will be painting my 66 this color. What blue did you use?
The color is 8x0 from Toyota. Smokey Blue. It seems a little dark at times with the white but it’s way too late for me to change my mind, lol. Thanks for watching!
That handle has been on there for years. Not sure why I put it on there but the main thing was to tape open the dead man valve. It was a pain to hold for long periods of time.
At your age I can't for the life of me figure out how you were cutting that fineline and looking so CLOSE UP!! Probably you're younger than me though....LOL
I know this may be a dumb question but how do you keep from getting tape tracers when you tape off for your 2nd color on the 2 tone? The reason i ask is I've had a couple problems while doing my square body 2 tone. I use the vinyl 3m fine line and all and even waited 24 hrs to tape it off and its not the glue part of the tape but more of a impression of the tape? Now im using house of kolor paint if it matters but im getting ready to do the 2 tone again on it and it happened to me on the white witch i sprayed 1st just like you did in this video. Im almost about to intercoat just the area where im gonna tape to prevent this as the last time it drove me crazy!!! Lol Like ive said before you da man so i know you know a secret or 2 that could probably keep me from wanting to beat on my truck.... Just kidding but if there's some advice you could give me it would be greatly appreciated!!! And keep up the great work as im always waiting on your next video to drop!!!!!
Hey Jeremy. Looks to me like you are headed in the right direction with the intercoat clear. The tech sheet for the HOK specifically states not to tape directly to their basecoat. Says you must first apply intercoat clear to avoid tape tracks. So I think the intercoat clear is your fix. There are other things that could create the problem like over applying the base causing it not to dry well or over applying base on top of the fine line causing solvent to creep through or around the tape but after reading their tech sheet I’m fairly sure you just need to apply the intercoat clear first. Good luck with your truck this next go-round and thanks for watching the channel!
I’ve been trying to find the best process for my own, but I’m getting mixed information online. Some say epoxy to bare metal, then filler, then more epoxy on top to keep moisture of the bare metal and to seal the filler from moisture. What do you recommend?
If you strip panels to bare metal yes epoxy first. Epoxy will provide you with the best corrosion protection while you straighten dents and work filler. Filler also adheres to epoxy very well. Inevitably when you sand the filler you will also sand some of the epoxy off and have bare metal. This will require more epoxy over the bare steel at a minimum or you can apply a coat over the entire panel (after lightly sanding everything). If by some chance you worked the filler and never broke through the epoxy, you could go straight to high build primer since the adhesion to bare steel and corrosion protection are already there and the high build will protect everything from moisture. The problem with epoxy is that it has very little film build and doesn't sand all that great so at some point you need to apply a high build primer. This usually done wet on wet meaning that once you are satisfied with the filler work and the second application of epoxy is done, you apply the high build primer on top of the epoxy after it flashes off for the appropriate time usually around 30 minutes to an hour. That is the traditional way to go about it. There is a newer product that is gaining in popularity that is an epoxy based high build primer. It has direct to metal ability, sands well, and has great build. It's PPG's Vibrance line VP 2050 DTM primer. Once the panel is stripped it can be primed with the VP 2050, filler work done, and reprimed with the same product. It has worked very well for me. If you want some great information go online and search for PPG's Custom Restoration Guide. It's very straight forward and informative. Lots of good stuff in there. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom This was a great help, thanks. One follow up though, what’s the maximum time you think the body filler can go uncoated? Should it be covered with the next coat of epoxy within a certain timeframe? Again great series on all of the squarebody content, finally got me motivated to finish the project following along with your process.
@@cjack7595 If your shop is fairly dry several days is fine. If your shop has moisture issues like condensation on metal in the mornings when the temperature changes it needs to be primed before you leave in the evenings. My old shop was that way certain times of the year so I primed daily. Where my truck is located now I can work filler for a day or two before priming. The exposed metal is the main thing. If it sets exposed be sure to resand it before priming. While you don’t want moisture in your filler, the big problem would be if there were no epoxy under it. Since filler is not waterproof the metal under it (with no epoxy) could be corroding/rusting because it’s basically exposed and you would not know until down the road when bubbles started appearing in your paint job. Another thing, just work one or two panels at a time so you don’t get stretched out too far.
@@StoutCustom Once again, thanks for the quick replies. It’s such a big help to be able to pick the brain of someone like yourself. Looking forward to seeing more of your finished projects.
Do you mean other than myself? Yes at times. I’m an automotive painter by trade so I have worked in numerous body shops and also worked on vehicles at my home shop. I sold the house and shop a while ago but plan to build another at some point. The shop im painting this truck in is a temporary thing.
Great video of a great series. Anybody painting a squarebody should watch this video ten times i know i am.
Thanks Bud. I appreciate the comment!
Damn satisfying when tape pulled off back of cab so clean and crisp
Yes it is! Thanks for watching!
It is one thing to hang sheet metal, weld with the gaps correct. Body work completely different but then paint. You are a hero in my book of men.
DK, Omaha. Air brush, build rotisserie, camera, lights, edit... I am sure he grills and smokes as well!
Thanks Dean. I have to say my smoked meats are quite tasty, lol
@@StoutCustom Jim, resting as per Dr's orders after 5 injections, 1 per day. After watching this again, you have taught many lessons.
#1 The "P" sheets can be studied for the amount of primer of paint needed. Lesson; How much product do I need?
#2 You covered as to be comfortable, raise, lower car or chair as need.
#3 Solid colors in jambs, under hood and other locations seen and not compared like lower center of cab back. Could save money if cheaper and no clear.
#4 The folded tape for soft edge and if done right, paper or plastic won't come loose if taped over. Leaving the pinch weld open during tapping helps eliminate water leading to rust.
#5 The time management issue. As you had shown the sun going down, it reminded me that if first time painters write down their "Stop / Start time, flash time and number of coats can help a new painter figure out if the have time to start a new product or wait. Plus, if wait, what happens next as "P" sheets tell how much time the product is open before it has to be re-sanded or simply continue spraying paint in "XX" number of hours after sprayed. A full page "Time" note could be taped to wall of paint booth or paper / plastic on window or unharmed location on the vehicle. This way there is forgetting or guessing.
#6 Leaving, allowing time to clean up. Remove tape while wet pulling down or away, handling these materials as touch & temp from "P" sheet would allow a painter to finish at the vehicle, but clean those expensive guns, paint mix area clean up, remove spills while wet before hard and near impossible to remove since paint remover is less than Ajax. But all needed, has to be done and if my son (38) is any example, never thought of it!
You are the professional and I look up to you and do pay attention. But that material alone is enough to make a 40 minute video just using some old footage (Yah, like tape or super 8)
Maybe I just think too much or not enough. Thanks Jim!
I love this channel without so much blah blah and a lot of action 😎🤟
Thanks Alejandro. I don’t have time for blah blah I’ve got work to do, lol. Thanks for watching!
That is looking sweet! Well done!
Thanks Darren!
That SEM hotrod black really does make matte black an easier step. No blotch or streak from matting agents. Nice job man 👍
Thanks Jayson I really like the stuff.
Jim, please be sure to post a video when you install your drip rails. I want to see how you prevent scratching the paint.
Awesome job as usual.
I will try. Started cleaning the old ones up today to see if they are worth using. Thanks for the complement!
Looks amazing
Thank you!
Great Videos I have been learning a lot to use going to my wifes 72 C10
Good deal. Thanks for watching!
Great work as usual. I'll be hitting the underside of my hood soon. Great Tips.
Thanks Brian and best of luck on that hood. 👍
Very good work 👍
Thank you!
Just goes to show a good painter can get quality results with most any gun. Looks incredible. Nice work!!
Thanks Robb. It did turn out good but I miss my SuperNova, lol.
I was wondering if that was a black widow..... Ive heard good stuff about them
@@genuinejake9851 it’s a decent gun for the price but definitely doesn’t have as good of a spray pattern as a SATA or Iwata.
Love the lessons and the work. Wish you had a hands on class, 26 years old and Love to turn nothing into something everyday
I’ve thought about doing some classes down the road once I get a shop built. I think it would be interesting. Thanks for watching!
@Stout Custom I live in Kentucky, so if you ever do I'll find away to you every class. I learn more from older folks (less games more knowledge)
you missed a spot there! ha just kidding. I appreciate a master at his craft 👌
Lol. Thanks TC!
Awesome job... Love the colors. Keep the videos coming, gives me motivation to work on mine. Thank you for sharing your passion with us.
Hey Greg, glad to share and thanks for watching! Knowing folks enjoy the videos keeps me motivated as well. 👍
Looks great! Nice job grinding it out
It was a grind for sure. Thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom of course. Every video!
Nice job on the truck! Looking good.
Thanks Robert!
@@StoutCustom always enjoy your vids.
Good tunes!
Glad you like them and thanks for watching!
Great work. You make it look easy. I’ve watched all your videos and have primed and blocked mine to help lower cost to paint but I think I’m going to paint it myself now.
Thanks Scott. Painting can be extremely challenging but extremely satisfying as well. If you’re up for the challenge I say go for it. With some good planning and patience you might surprise yourself. Thanks for watching!
Lookin good my man
Thanks Keith!
I’ve been off the computer for awhile I thought this truck was already painted? I’m a learning painter and body man in progress. I went through 4 hoods before I found one worth using. What I found for separation of hood frame a sheet metal was liquid nails. Turn the hood upside down supporting it on the sides and carefully put it between the lose areas it makes final blocking and finish much easier!
Interesting. I might have to give the liquid nails a try. I had painted the cab and some of the jambs before but decided to get rid of the painted on mouldings. Next…the bed. Thanks for watching!
Ya done good man. You make it look like us knotheads could do it but my common sense tells me I am not nearly ready lol. I did get my cab of my 70 c/10 in uretane primer now and it looks good but took a lot of time to get it there and looking at the whole picture I have barely started,but you have inspired me so I am going after the doors next. I hope I live a long life at the rate I am going hehehe
Lol. Like the answer to “how do you eat an elephant?” One bite at a time. Keep at it my friend you will get there.
I bought that ez edge like a year or 2 ago when i first say it on you chanel used it ever since
It’s a great tool. Saves a ton of money over the old D.A.R.T 3M foam stuff we used to use if you ever messed with that stuff. Glad it’s working for you and thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom love the contents been paint my 78 to for about the same time as yours used you videos for idea and fitment advise lined up pefectly just working on the hood now show be ready for paint buy the end of the months
@@manuelmurillo4027 good deal! It’s a long process but worth it in the end. Good luck with your truck!
Que buen trabajo
Gracias
Notification Crew!!!
Whoohooo!
beautiful like always, my wife wants to do my 86 k10 blue and white same way lower portion white. She liked a pearl white and a heavy metallic sonic blue I think? Love the videos buddy always watch em.
That would look good. You might have to let her win this one, lol. Thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom she always does, she picked the metallic green for my 79 trans am, and then all the rest. I did pick the orange for my dad's 84 c10 and she hates it
@@swims3505 lol
Howdy. Im curious why you paint some trucks with doors and fenders on but others you paint in pieces. Thanks. Great videos
@@mitchelldickens9702 I prefer to paint things apart if possible. However on this truck I wanted to paint the jambs with single stage and the outside with base/clear. There is also the added dimension of two toning. Two tones can be painted apart but require more measuring and a little guesswork so lining up the two tone lines is of course easier if it’s together. Color has to be factored in to the equation as well. Some colors are easy to match when the pieces are painted apart while others such as tri-coats have greater risk of not matching if painted apart. If it’s an easy color, not two tone, and it’s all getting sprayed with the same paint system then there is less masking and zero tape lines if painted apart. Simply put it together and you’re done. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
In one of your videos, the hood would deflect in one particular spot as you were sanding it I have the same issue. Is that because the hood skin has come loose from the structure beneath? If so, would it be beneficial to spray foam between the hood and structure if I can determine where the two have separated?
Yes either it has come loose or it was never attached. SEM as well as other companies make a flexible foam that works well for this. Just like any expanding foam it makes a mess so be prepared. Regular hardware store spray foam is not a good idea. It can expand too much and push the metal out too far. It’s also not flexible so if you press on it and it collapses you are right back where you were. You can just find something to use as a temporary spacer to use while you block the hood then remove it when you are done. A paint paddle or bondo spreader may work for this. Just fill the gap enough to keep it from flexing and not put too much outward pressure on the hood. Hope this helps and as always thanks for watching!
Great content! You're really good at explaining each step for those of us without experience. Someday I will be painting my 66 this color. What blue did you use?
The color is 8x0 from Toyota. Smokey Blue. It seems a little dark at times with the white but it’s way too late for me to change my mind, lol. Thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom thanks, brother!
What color blue is that? It's beautiful! Nice work!
Toyota 8XO Smoky Blue. Thank you!
@@StoutCustom Thanks. I thought I had seen that color before. Just couldn't remember where I'd seen it.
Looks awesome. What's the code for that blue?
8X0 Smokey Blue from Toyota
Knocked it out of the park bro! How's the black widow gun?
Thanks. It’s a decent gun for the price but if you are used to a premium gun it leaves a lot to be desired.
The pvc handle is something I wood whay do what dow for sand on sheet steel
That handle has been on there for years. Not sure why I put it on there but the main thing was to tape open the dead man valve. It was a pain to hold for long periods of time.
At your age I can't for the life of me figure out how you were cutting that fineline and looking so CLOSE UP!! Probably you're younger than me though....LOL
Haha. I’ve learned when seeing double to cut the one on the right, lol. Thanks for watching!
I know this may be a dumb question but how do you keep from getting tape tracers when you tape off for your 2nd color on the 2 tone? The reason i ask is I've had a couple problems while doing my square body 2 tone. I use the vinyl 3m fine line and all and even waited 24 hrs to tape it off and its not the glue part of the tape but more of a impression of the tape? Now im using house of kolor paint if it matters but im getting ready to do the 2 tone again on it and it happened to me on the white witch i sprayed 1st just like you did in this video. Im almost about to intercoat just the area where im gonna tape to prevent this as the last time it drove me crazy!!! Lol
Like ive said before you da man so i know you know a secret or 2 that could probably keep me from wanting to beat on my truck.... Just kidding but if there's some advice you could give me it would be greatly appreciated!!! And keep up the great work as im always waiting on your next video to drop!!!!!
Hey Jeremy. Looks to me like you are headed in the right direction with the intercoat clear. The tech sheet for the HOK specifically states not to tape directly to their basecoat. Says you must first apply intercoat clear to avoid tape tracks. So I think the intercoat clear is your fix. There are other things that could create the problem like over applying the base causing it not to dry well or over applying base on top of the fine line causing solvent to creep through or around the tape but after reading their tech sheet I’m fairly sure you just need to apply the intercoat clear first. Good luck with your truck this next go-round and thanks for watching the channel!
I’ve been trying to find the best process for my own, but I’m getting mixed information online. Some say epoxy to bare metal, then filler, then more epoxy on top to keep moisture of the bare metal and to seal the filler from moisture. What do you recommend?
If you strip panels to bare metal yes epoxy first. Epoxy will provide you with the best corrosion protection while you straighten dents and work filler. Filler also adheres to epoxy very well. Inevitably when you sand the filler you will also sand some of the epoxy off and have bare metal. This will require more epoxy over the bare steel at a minimum or you can apply a coat over the entire panel (after lightly sanding everything). If by some chance you worked the filler and never broke through the epoxy, you could go straight to high build primer since the adhesion to bare steel and corrosion protection are already there and the high build will protect everything from moisture. The problem with epoxy is that it has very little film build and doesn't sand all that great so at some point you need to apply a high build primer. This usually done wet on wet meaning that once you are satisfied with the filler work and the second application of epoxy is done, you apply the high build primer on top of the epoxy after it flashes off for the appropriate time usually around 30 minutes to an hour. That is the traditional way to go about it. There is a newer product that is gaining in popularity that is an epoxy based high build primer. It has direct to metal ability, sands well, and has great build. It's PPG's Vibrance line VP 2050 DTM primer. Once the panel is stripped it can be primed with the VP 2050, filler work done, and reprimed with the same product. It has worked very well for me. If you want some great information go online and search for PPG's Custom Restoration Guide. It's very straight forward and informative. Lots of good stuff in there. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom This was a great help, thanks. One follow up though, what’s the maximum time you think the body filler can go uncoated? Should it be covered with the next coat of epoxy within a certain timeframe? Again great series on all of the squarebody content, finally got me motivated to finish the project following along with your process.
@@cjack7595 If your shop is fairly dry several days is fine. If your shop has moisture issues like condensation on metal in the mornings when the temperature changes it needs to be primed before you leave in the evenings. My old shop was that way certain times of the year so I primed daily. Where my truck is located now I can work filler for a day or two before priming. The exposed metal is the main thing. If it sets exposed be sure to resand it before priming. While you don’t want moisture in your filler, the big problem would be if there were no epoxy under it. Since filler is not waterproof the metal under it (with no epoxy) could be corroding/rusting because it’s basically exposed and you would not know until down the road when bubbles started appearing in your paint job. Another thing, just work one or two panels at a time so you don’t get stretched out too far.
@@StoutCustom Once again, thanks for the quick replies. It’s such a big help to be able to pick the brain of someone like yourself. Looking forward to seeing more of your finished projects.
What color is this if u don’t mind me asking …I have a 83 n I’m looking for a different look
8x0 Smokey blue from toyota
Beautiful! Is the Calvary Blue by Toyota?
It’s called Smokey Blue or Heritage Blue. Paint code 8X0. Really close to the Calvary Blue but a little more gray to it. Thanks for watching!
I love it! I plan to paint my 87 square Calvary Blue once I get the gen v 6.2 swapped in.
@@abefarrar good plan. It should look really good on a square
Do you paint for anyone else?
Do you mean other than myself? Yes at times. I’m an automotive painter by trade so I have worked in numerous body shops and also worked on vehicles at my home shop. I sold the house and shop a while ago but plan to build another at some point. The shop im painting this truck in is a temporary thing.
name that truck ELBOW GREASE with all the blocking and sanding
Lol I like that name.
Jim do you wanna build another, for me i mean?!.
you should just buy this one from me
@@StoutCustom nice truck but I there are some things I'd like done (color wheels suspension/stance wheels, built engine )
@@JaxDane-ty2vt I hear you. I still don’t have a shop yet so I’m prob gonna sell this one and build a shop. Might be as while.
@@StoutCustom sorry yours is a nice truck but for me to really enjoy a truck i want it to be my way so i can retire with it
@@JaxDane-ty2vt no worries. I understand