Dodge Ram 2500/3500 6.7 Cummins front axle shaft U-joint replacement Part 1/2
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- How to change Front axle shaft Universal joint replacement on 2008 Dodge Ram 6.7 Cummins 4x4. Spicer universal joints for Solid axle.
Dodge Ram 2500/ 3500 Cummins four-wheel drive front axle shaft universal joint replacement. Dodge solid Axle removal hub bearing removal on 3rd gen trucks and 4th gen trucks aam 9.24 front axle
Part 2 • Dodge Ram 2500/3500 6....
Spicer 5006813 U-Joint Kit www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOI9XX0/
Astro 7897 Ball Joint Service... www.amazon.com/dp/B00061SGZO - Авто та транспорт
@19:30 "I ain't gonna lie to ya, I'm close to throwin a few tools". Spoken like a true gentleman. Well put, and glad to see it is not just me! 🙂
Don't throw them where you can't find them.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 Noted!
You're the man! I like how you went about this job. The power assist idea/option to get it apart was AWESOME! Thanks man
You're welcome brother! Glad to help!
Great job. Very clear. Thanks for a short and thorough vid!
Thanks glad it helped.
Thanks for the video. I’ve done my share of mechanic work, but managed to never do u joints until tonight. Glad I watched this video.
You're welcome!
Good lighting, sharp images and informative. Good job.
Thanks Skip! 🙂
Pro tip, you don't need to separate the hub from the shaft. Makes it a bit heavier, but one less step, one less thing to torque. Great video
When I do balljoints I keep the hub and axle shaft together as one unit. When I do ujoints I separate the two because it makes it easier to install the new joints.
Thanks for watching!
There’s no retainers for the axle inside the diff???
Nope you just pull the axle out with the help of a pry bar with very little effort .
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 awesome thanks for the info!
You're welcome
Awesome video! Worked as it should with the extra hour it always takes 😅 definitely helped having a buddy with the u joint press
The extra hour comes from looking for the tools you throw across the yard or shop.
Thanks man. You help me with understanding actually what has to happen
You're welcome! Glad it helped and thanks for watching.
Great Video
Very informative
You did a excellent job demonstrating and talking the process through
Thank You for sharing
You're welcome brother
Excellent video, very slow and clear. Great job.
Thank you
About to do this on my 15, thanks for making the video.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Got this job done day before Christmas at my shop, someone before i ham-fisted the hub adapter nuts during a rotor replacement and i had to use a 6ft pipe to loosen them. got the actual hub off with a little effort, didn't take the "tie rod" off, just used a deep socket and long breaker bar on the 2 front hub bolts, i had to pry the shaft a little to get it out, was careful not to damage the inner seal when removing and installing.
i always cut the u joint out of the shaft vs beating on it or using a press, i cut the cross out using my grinder with a thin blade and sometimes use my torch and whittle it out quickly then i just drive the cups out and the little bit of heat loosens up the grease and makes it easier to come off also, lightly sand the cup areas on the shaft to remove burrs and rust and the cups go in so much better. Got 'er done. again, good video isolated diesel !
Thanks brother glad you got your truck back rolling again. Feels good to drive your truck with new parts. New parts put a smile on my stupid face.
I've done lots of wrenching but never did this before. Your video was very helpful. I am inclined to used never seize on lot's of the places just so I can get it apart in the future. Cheers from Canada
Thanks brother
Great video! I appreciate the way it's done. I think we've all tossed a few tools in frustration. Thanks for showing the things that are often edited out. If I did a video, the audio would just be one long beep!
Thanks George! Tornado sirens are good for the long beep videos.
Hey, that using the power steering to assist removing the unit bearing is genius, thanks!
You're welcome brother!
Thanks for the video I thought it was very helpful!
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
Awesome video brother 🤙
Thanks dude! 👍😆
That was a fantastic video! Great lighting... no bull, way to go!
Thanks brother and thanks for watching! Hope it helped.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 Yes it did, I wish more of these How To videos were as well shot and explained as yours... most are full of weird music, bad lighting or useless chit chat... good job! I will subscribe
I try brother. Thanks for the support!
Thank you for the detailed video
Your welcome!
beware of licking the axle shaft !!! Good Video got this job to do tomorrow at my shop
Thanks man!
Great vid thanks man
Great video! 👍
Thanks brother!
One trick I have learned doing these so often especially when they r rust welded in is to use the balljoint press like you say to do then if it's not quite enough take a hammer and whack it a few good times on the end of the press it'll send the vibrations straight down and into that cap and will almost always 'pop' loose! Very rarely do I need to use the press while brakiing out the air hammer.
This helped get it right off, thanks man!
Great video! Thanks for the instructions, I’m gonna tackle this now on my 06 Cummins.
Thank you and welcome!
Ya I learned .good video you made
Thanks!
I got a Milwaukee ratcheting wrench and I love that thing
Makes life easier for sure! I'd be lost without mine.
Thank you so m uch for the video.
You're welcome!
Great video
Thanks!
Good video
Thank you.
Well done sir! Answered all my questions and I was able to make a list for the tool store.
Thanks Zack Conner!
Great helpful
A little grease on the inner splines helps pass the seal. Anti-seize on the outer splines and the outer portion of the wheel bearing will insure removing the hub next time is MUCH easier.
I normally do all of that but I was using a friend's shop and didn't bring any with me. Unfortunately he didn't have any. I just built my own shop so I don't have to gather up tools and lube and use someone else's shop.
Just worked on a farmers truck that let his u joints go for so long it oval’d out his stub shaft.
If your in a bind and need to move your truck just pull it all out then put just the stub shaft back in with no u joint so it hold your hub etc in place. You can move it but don’t drive it far, if you had to wait on parts!
You can actually put the hub back on with the whole axle shaft missing and drive as far as you want to.
good video, well done. its funny u got pissed i usually throw something right after i bust the shit out of my hand or something. i would hate videoing myself doing this stuff so thanks for doing it.
Thanks brother and you're welcome
They have to team passage ways for the grease to travel through the u joints when they make them for grease zerks. That makes the u joint weaker and they won’t handle as much torque.
That's correct.
I am currently in the middle of this very same job. Although I'm not having as much luck. The hub is stuck tightern dicks hat band. I'm working on an 03 3500 Cummins. And the customer must constantly spray rust-n-bind all to hell on everything. The hub will not let go at all.
Have you tried heat?
Next time you have to pull the hub disconnect the tie-rod so you can turn the knuckle more and fit your impact on the hub bolts.
That's a good idea. Thanks!
Great video better instructions then my brother he skips things like removing cutter pin or getting the hub off the axle its heavy as shit holding it why he knocked the joints out but can be done
Thanks man. It can be a job sometimes for sure.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 loved the video by the way. Very helpful im about to have to do it on my truck, just ordered the press tool. Thanks for taking the time to be a teacher. Your a professor in my youtube mechanic school now :)
@@daviddaniels6645 you just made my day!!! Can't wait to show your comment to the ol lady so I can watch her eyes roll all the way in the back of her head lol. Thanks brother!
My 2012 looks and sounds like the exact same problem, so thanks for the video help here. Did replacing the U-joint fix the issue? Mine (and yours) looks like it's also leaking fluid from the axle housing indicating a bad inner seal too. Wondering if I need to do that while I have it torn apart? Did you have to replace inner seals too soon after?
Yes it fixed my problem and no the seals have never leaked. The wet parts you see was from soaking them in wd40 a few times before I started working on it.
Replaced mine on my 06 with greasable a few years ago and am like you about being on top interchanges greasing joints and its already out. Lots of good tips in your video i wish i could have seen then to save heachache amd frustrstions back then. One of those is the ball joint tool - seems like a must have for these dodges, where'd you get it or have a part number? Thanks again
Thanks Brett! Yes links to everything is in the description. Thanks for watching!
Put ujoint in vise cradling open jaws tap on heavy part of axle ujoint a pop right out caps do too
I have an 08 Ram 2500 automatic with Cummins. have everything off but have a couple questions. should I have the truck in 4 wheel drive or does it not matter? working on drivers side and axle doesn't want to come out. before I put some force on it want to be sure I'm not missing something. btw, great vid series
You don't need the truck in 4wd. Take a pry bar and stick it between the joint and axle tube to help it out.
@22:35 is the yoke U Joint cap hole supposed to be all oblong shaped? looks like a new yoke should be used.
It just looks that way on camera.
Not sure why mine aren’t as loose as yours. Gets a bit better when I hit it but still a bit stiff. Great video though it gave me a lot of insight and tricks to use, now I just gotta figure out what I did 😂
Make sure your needle bearings stayed in place.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 yeah I feel like pressing it out again is gonna be the end result lol. Luckily it isn’t rusted to hell this time so not a huge deal. Thanks for the reply and tip though.
Use hand tools to press it back out again so no damage is done.
If you’ll take the tie rod end off the hub bolts are easily removed. Hub is easily removed by using a thin chisel all four corners and then follow with thicker chisel to take out hub. Tap axles back in if it comes out
Question for you my friend 2007 6.7 when turning left theirs a clicking sound and only turning left would you say it’s the u joint on the axle?
Could be the u joints but first check to make sure the lug nuts and the break caliper bolts are tight. Take a pry bar and check for play in the ujoints.
Do I have to take the axle out of the hub to remove Ujoint? I don’t have that size socket for the axle nut.
I've never tried it with the hub on. If you're able to do it I would say its going to make the job a lot harder. I would get the socket if I was you.
Unfortunately my truck has spent it's life in the north. Land of road salt. It is a solid chunk of rust. Having the time of my life!
Chuck im sorry brother! Rust is a nightmare.
With the help of the Lord(though I didn't deserve it) and a 6 lbs. sledge hammer I came away with the big V and my truck is sporting a shiny new u-joint and hub.
@Chuck Bowen without the lords help i couldn't build a sandwich! Glad you got it done.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 amen to that !!!
So what are the signs and symptoms of bad U joints?? How do you test them to see if they are bad? I have a 2006 2500 5.9 and I feel some small clunking in my brake pedal when I brake, what could that be a symptom of?
If the clunkin noise speeds up or slows down with the speed of the truck then it's your joints most likely. Take a pry bar and pry on the axle shaft where the U joint is and see if there is any movement where the ujoint sets inside the ujoint end caps. Make sure your brake calipers don't have any movement in them. Make sure your hub bearing assembly and ball joints have no play in them. If all that seems good check your control arms, sway bar bushings, end links, and track bar. Hope this helps. Oh yea check to see if your spare tire is tight. That can make a clunking/thumping noise when hitting your breaks.
what size is the castle nut and would it be the same as my 2012? Great video!
1 ¹¹/¹⁶ and im not sure about the 2012. Should be the same but don't take my word for it
Awesome video, do you have a part number for the u joints? Having trouble tracking them down. Thanks!
Check this out at Amazon
Spicer 5006813 U-Joint Kit www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOI9XX0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_glt_i_W85S7TK4T580E2040TPR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
4 good licks, got it!
Milwaukee and Tekton. You already got my attention lol
Milwaukee is awesome and tekton makes the best cheep tool out there!
Yes sir! I couldn’t agree more
Over time I came to the same conclusion!
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. You do a great job showing all the steps!
Thank you and you're welcome!
You by chance have your u joint part numbers on hand. I’m about to order some and every site I’ve been to contradicts the previous site on what will fit
Make sure it fits your year model
Spicer 5006813 U-Joint Kit
www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOI9XX0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_glt_i_G2EJBDYXZ8MM0Y9552H7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
What year model is your truck?
Hey I'm a ol tool chucker from waay back lol,do you think it would be beneficial to load the grease to the joints while they are open?
If they don't have any in them or zerk fittings then yes sir! They should have grease in them so just add a light coat to help hold the needle bearings in.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 thanks on the reply bro
You need a big fan to blow air on you. That's what I do when wrenching in hot temps. Might make filing a bit harder. You could do audio voice over in editing too
Im going to get a shop fan soon.
@Isolated Diesel, what power tools did you use? Makes the job 100X faster.
All of my power tools are battery pack milwaukee fuel brushless. They're expensive but well worth it. Impact gun and impact ratchet is what I used in this vid
Check this out at Amazon.com
Milwaukee 2767-20 M18 Fuel High Torque 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench with Friction Ring www.amazon.com/dp/B077H7JP1D/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_RDrvFbPXEDZQK
Check this out at Amazon.com
Milwaukee 2557-20 M12 Fuel 3/8" Ratchet (Bare Tool) www.amazon.com/dp/B07779CDGX/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_0CrvFbR27YYTJ
Thanks for the vid. I watched it several times and just did mine. Even ordered the same ball / u joint kit and milwaukee impact tool. They had been noisy for better part of a year . Not as tricky as I thought it would be using your method. Just waiting on my manual locking hub kit to finish it up. How are you liking yours by the way. Thanks again
You're welcome. I love my locking hub kit. No way I would want to go back with factory hubs.
What is the part number of that ball joint press?
www.amazon.com/dp/B00061SGZO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_glt_i_B8VZD9707K3FWMRA5D24?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Great video I’m doing this all tomorrow and this is by far the best video on here
Thanks! Hope it helps!
I am doing mine right now and I don't have a socket big enough or the hub nut at 5:37 in your video. Do you remember what size the socket is that I need to buy. Thanks.
Socket size 1 ¹¹/¹⁶
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 Thanks. I actually measured it with a caliper and it's 1.685" which is exactly what you say. The socket I just bought was metric and it's 43mm. I bought metric because the whole vehicle is metric. The size is basically the same as 1-11/16". It fits perfectly. Thanks again.
I think we have a case of “High boost 4 wheel launch syndrome”.
Was a change in the way the truck drove what let you know this replacement needed done? Ive got a shake under load in a certain speed range and trying to figure it out
Sounds like the rear ujoints if when you say under load as in acceleration or are you saying when loaded?
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 when under acceleration
Yea check ujoints then pinion for in and out and up and down play. If no problems then hook a scan tool up and check for codes in transmission after you make sure fluid is good. Could also be your torque converter. Torque converter is usually more of a shutter feeling.
NICE WORK THERE ANY MY DONE AS WELL
Thanks Alex and thanks for watching!
So axles just slide out? No retainers inside the diff?
That's correct.
What electric impact you using I can’t seem to find a strong one
Milwaukee 2767-20 M18 Fuel High Torque 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench with Friction Ring www.amazon.com/dp/B077H7JP1D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tJqmEbK7PFHRX
Hey where did you get those center caps?
Came with the wheels
What wheels are those? how did you get them to fit? How much they cost? I love those wheels!
17 inch pro comp alloys. Will mount right up with factory height. No spacers needed. Take yours off and put new ones on and go drive with no rubbing. That's it. About $400 to $450 a set depending on where you get them.
I have a 2006 Dodge ram 2500 5.7 hemi power wagon when I stop at a light my truck stalls if I put in neutral it will stay running and it have a slow acceleration something anyone no why it would do this there no engine light on
Could be crank position sensor or dirty throttle body but I'm guessing your transmission fluid is low or your torque converter may be going out. Hook scan tool up and check for codes. It can still throw a code without the check engine light coming on.
When you pulled the axle out, is there anything in the differential that can fall out of place. Someone told me to put the truck into 4x4 when doing this?
What year model is your truck?
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 it's a 2010 Ram 3500 6.7l automatic dually
@@sidhucer00789 no you don't have to. Thats only for the early models. Some people put them in 4 wheel drive anyway so the alxe nut is easier to break loose. If it makes you feel better to do the job in 4 wheel drive you can. It won't hurt a thing
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 thank you very much!
Did your truck start clackin when that u joint was goin out ?
Had a ticking at low speeds. If u go long enough it will start clacking
Is it true you have to put it in 4x4 before pulling half shift out ? Heard it drops somthing in the pumpkin or somthing if you don’t
What year model do u have?
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 07.5 ram 2500 6.7
@@johnnya4329 no you don't have to. You have the AAM 9.25 front axle. They started putting them in Dodge ram back in 2003.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 thanks man
@@johnnya4329 anytime
Would this be the same for a '14 model dodge
It should be. 2012 I know is the same for sure. Torque specs for the 2014 may be different but I'm not sure.
What brand is that press you have I'm trying to make sure I buy the right thing thanks for the info
@@ralphgomez78 Astro 7897 Ball Joint Service... www.amazon.com/dp/B00061SGZO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Can you drive ur truck even when those u joints go out or no?
U can when they first start making a clicking sound but you don't want to go to long driving like that. I have drove them making a clicking noise for about a month or so till I had time to change them out.
Do you have to pull the axle tho?
Yes!
Are the 14's the same?
Should be
Did you say 1in 11-16 socket or 1in and 1-16th
1in 11/16
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 awesome thank you
Your welcome
They get worn and caps wont stay in mines welded just lil tack to hold caps in place beat cost of new axle
Don't think I've ever heard of anyone doing that before. Are you not worried that the grease will dry out and cause a problem?
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 the yolks are worn after 200k the universal would just fall out of place
Basically needs new axles in front
@@garymatusavige3639 I see what you're saying now loud and clear brother!
How long did this take ? An hour or 2 ?
Took me about 5 hrs because of recording. You should be able to do it in about 3 hrs or a little less.
what are those rims
Pro comp
Kk
Are you for hire?
Not at the moment. Building my new garage as we speak. 🙂😁
Nobody and i mean nobody on youtube shows taking the stuck hub to the axle off a 4wd 2500 3500 etc. NOBODY. someone prove me wrong by puting links below me. PROVE IT. I was gonna pull my axle and put the bearing hub and axle in my 20 ton shop press. Instead I used a 3 jaw pulley ( after all other methods failed). Turn 3 jaw middle screw, hit with hammer, turn hit with hammer, spray juice repeat. Leave on overnight under pressure. Problem was you can't hit axle back because the yolk hits the axle housing and the axle won't go back any farther. So my boy (owner of this duelly 6.7) held a breaker bar between the hub and spindle so it wouldn't reseat itself not letting axle go back out of bearing hub because yolk hits the axle housing. Then we could hit the screw on the 3 jaw press with results of axle going backwards out of hub. I know its a 3 jaw puller.......but I hope you understand its pulling off hub while shoving axle back. Isn't it? I may not have needed to use breaker bar to keep bearing hub off of spindle but I didn't like seeing the axle yolk smash into the axle housing. It was long and not fun. Grind all rust off. Cover with anti seize when install new bearing hub. My words may not be correct so read what I mean and not what I write. Im a veterinarian. If other suggestions out there post them to help someone else as well. Thanks and I hope this helps someone. take care.
At the time I made the video I didn't have a shop and I had to load all my tools up and use a friend's shop because it rain for days and days and I forgot my puller set. Thats why I wasn't able to show the correct way to separate the hub and axle shaft.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 I understand. I was just putting my comment out there so if someone has a video on different removal techniques they could link it here to help everyone. Thank you for taking the time to upload your stuff. It has helped us. Take care.
What size socket for the axle nut?
1 ¹¹/¹⁶