The large c-frame I used was in my otc ball joint service set: www.jegs.com/i/OTC+Tools/717/8031/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAiAgbiQBhAHEiwAuQ6BkizroRq5NeAtPl0dfMyw0NZoksj8ud_gcgyL07yCUU8b2zmnCv9H6hoCekwQAvD_BwE I use adaptors to rig it for doing u-joints out of this set: www.ebay.com/itm/202171154660?epid=22012418036&hash=item2f125700e4:g:YcYAAOSw0JpV6wzC
@@raincitywrench117 they aren't that bad actually, it's a process, but not super bad, I've done maybe a dozen in 27 year's, h-yoke and the ball system can be a lil cumbersome
@@raincitywrench117 10-4, brother. I was looking more for a specific part number, because I agree that MOOG, Spicer, and NAPA tend to have some of the best u-joints. I was just having an influx of information that just didn't match each other. But I called the auto parts store today and got it figured out. Thanks again!
Unfortunately no way on the front u-joints. I would soak the bolts in brake fluid or sea foam deep creep. Let sit overnight and try heat again. Keep trying that and pray they break free.
Not all. The rear driveline on this pickup has clips that fit into grooves in the yoke on the outside of the cups. I remember back in the 90's, GM u-joints were held in by fiberglass injected at the factory. To remove and replace the joints, had to heat the yoke with a torch until the fiberglass or whatever material it was would ooze out this small hole in the end of yoke and then smack it with a hammer to dislodge the cups. The new replacement would have regular inside clips.
Yeah, it definitely would have been helpful to watch you take it out. That's the main reason I came to this channel. Word of advice, don't do anything half ass. You want to show somebody how to do it, show them how to remove it and then show them how to install it.
Oops, sorry. This is the tool you want to use, make sure you measure your cups before ordering to get the correct one plus use some heat so it won't bend the yoke ears out:www.amazon.com/Lisle-42890-U-Joint-Pullers-Small/dp/B08JZCYZK6/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=CjwKCAiA78aNBhAlEiwA7B76p1Vs182m7p-T6gDWBpZa1JqM2MZiKEIJsskCzt3smbQT9H8a6_9OIBoCbH4QAvD_BwE&hvadid=496337421049&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9033382&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6416329425009744276&hvtargid=kwd-1179471582403&hydadcr=28544_10017591&keywords=lisle%2Bu%2Bjoint%2Bpuller&qid=1639108302&sr=8-1&th=1 I pressed out a super duty u-joint which is almost identical to yours in this video starting at min 10:00. without the tool. ua-cam.com/video/et3mXFy8wN0/v-deo.html&ab_channel=RainCityWrench Have not done a video using my lisle pullers yet.
@@raincitywrench117 i did one of this and on one axle i notice the caps can be pressed in by hand so only the clip is basically holding is there a way to tighten the caps you think by hammering on the outside yoke??
@@victornaja-paz5241 Definitely don't hammer on the outside of the yoke, it could set the driveline off balance. I would try a different brand u-joint first, then double check application to make sure you have the right part. If all that fails you may be able to apply threadlock press fit repair compound to the u-joint cups, let it set up overnight and should be good. I used that to repair a differential bearing race that would spin in the casting. It sets up like steel.
![Lp. Последняя Реальность #97 ЧЁРНАЯ МАТЕРИЯ [Анти Скинт] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k4MjXCzKsYw/mqdefault.jpg)
CONGRATULATIONS on your 1K achievement today! Wishing RCW even greater success with this top-notch project going forward.
Thanks so much!
Best video I seen on this so simple
Awesome channel, I love the attention to detail. I’m looking at a 2500 that needs Ujoints. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Good details.
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video. This answers so many questions, but I have one. What is the correct name of that C-clamp pressing tool?
The large c-frame I used was in my otc ball joint service set: www.jegs.com/i/OTC+Tools/717/8031/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAiAgbiQBhAHEiwAuQ6BkizroRq5NeAtPl0dfMyw0NZoksj8ud_gcgyL07yCUU8b2zmnCv9H6hoCekwQAvD_BwE
I use adaptors to rig it for doing u-joints out of this set: www.ebay.com/itm/202171154660?epid=22012418036&hash=item2f125700e4:g:YcYAAOSw0JpV6wzC
NEXT EPISODE, LETS DO A DOUBLE CARDONE JOINT.....LOL, GREAT VIDEO, I ALWATS EMERY CLOTH THE INSIDES WHERE THE CAPS GO, MAKES LIFE SO MUCH EASIER
You know, I have never done one of those. They look like a PITA. Maybe I will get the opportunity sometime in my career?
@@raincitywrench117 they aren't that bad actually, it's a process, but not super bad, I've done maybe a dozen in 27 year's, h-yoke and the ball system can be a lil cumbersome
Could you recommend a u-joint that would be just as good or better than that MOPAR part?
Have used Napa and Moog u-joints without any problems.
@@raincitywrench117 10-4, brother. I was looking more for a specific part number, because I agree that MOOG, Spicer, and NAPA tend to have some of the best u-joints. I was just having an influx of information that just didn't match each other. But I called the auto parts store today and got it figured out. Thanks again!
Spicer
Is this possible while on the vehicle? My bolts are badly seized and heat won’t seem to do the trick.
Unfortunately no way on the front u-joints. I would soak the bolts in brake fluid or sea foam deep creep. Let sit overnight and try heat again. Keep trying that and pray they break free.
Liquid wrench or sea foam stuff. Soak, heat and repeat…. Hope that works
Are all clips on the inside now?
Not all. The rear driveline on this pickup has clips that fit into grooves in the yoke on the outside of the cups. I remember back in the 90's, GM u-joints were held in by fiberglass injected at the factory. To remove and replace the joints, had to heat the yoke with a torch until the fiberglass or whatever material it was would ooze out this small hole in the end of yoke and then smack it with a hammer to dislodge the cups. The new replacement would have regular inside clips.
Could you list the part numbers for them
www.amazon.com/Mopar-6806-5428AC-Universal-Joint/dp/B007NN0FMU
Yeah, it definitely would have been helpful to watch you take it out. That's the main reason I came to this channel. Word of advice, don't do anything half ass. You want to show somebody how to do it, show them how to remove it and then show them how to install it.
Oops, sorry. This is the tool you want to use, make sure you measure your cups before ordering to get the correct one plus use some heat so it won't bend the yoke ears out:www.amazon.com/Lisle-42890-U-Joint-Pullers-Small/dp/B08JZCYZK6/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=CjwKCAiA78aNBhAlEiwA7B76p1Vs182m7p-T6gDWBpZa1JqM2MZiKEIJsskCzt3smbQT9H8a6_9OIBoCbH4QAvD_BwE&hvadid=496337421049&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9033382&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6416329425009744276&hvtargid=kwd-1179471582403&hydadcr=28544_10017591&keywords=lisle%2Bu%2Bjoint%2Bpuller&qid=1639108302&sr=8-1&th=1
I pressed out a super duty u-joint which is almost identical to yours in this video starting at min 10:00. without the tool. ua-cam.com/video/et3mXFy8wN0/v-deo.html&ab_channel=RainCityWrench
Have not done a video using my lisle pullers yet.
can you use silicon paste instead of oil ?
I don't see why not 🙂
@@raincitywrench117 i did one of this and on one axle i notice the caps can be pressed in by hand so only the clip is basically holding is there a way to tighten the caps you think by hammering on the outside yoke??
@@victornaja-paz5241 Definitely don't hammer on the outside of the yoke, it could set the driveline off balance. I would try a different brand u-joint first, then double check application to make sure you have the right part. If all that fails you may be able to apply threadlock press fit repair compound to the u-joint cups, let it set up overnight and should be good. I used that to repair a differential bearing race that would spin in the casting. It sets up like steel.
@@raincitywrench117 Thank you so so much that help me very much have a great day