Replacing Axle U-joint - Ram 2500
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2017
- Changing u-joints and hubs on a 2006 Ram 2500 4X4. A squeaky u-joint told me it was time to change it. I try to do all maintenance myself. It saves money, but more importantly, I get to know my rig better, and it gives me pride. Rust and my own inexperience made this job extra-hard. The axle is a Chrysler 9.25".
What I appreciate the MOST about this video...Is that you got right to it! Didn't tell us about the weather, the place you spend last night, how long you've had the truck, the day of the week...Etc Etc!
SOOOO many vids are helpful but I have to speed through the first ten mins. of completely useless BS to get to the point! THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THAT. GREAT VID!!
Right!!!!!! Every time I’m watching one of those I just shut it off within 10 seconds, if I’m watching is because I’m usually 1 hour into what was supposed to be 30 minutes job, I’m all dirty to my neck, the last thing I want is to see a dude that barely knows anything tell me about his life for minutes and minutes.
I rented a unjoint puller from parts store. I ended up buying it. Worked great
I'm not knocking you at all! Just gonna put my two cents in on hub removal on these dodges, once you break all the four bolts loose and man axle nut, install one bolt back in about 1/2 way put a socket and long extension on it turn the wheel with the truck on (using the power steering as a press) and jam that extension into the axle housing do this on the front and rear side of the hub once and one good smack with a hammer she will be in your lap
Tyler Allen great advice! Thanks you
Bs M ,
Well being as I'm a feild mechanic for a transmission power line contractor and have done this on 40-50 trucks with over 100k (80% which is off road mileage) I can tell you it will work, I haven't had it not work. Why wouldn't using a Hydraulic press (I.e your power steering system) press out the hub?
Bs M
Well you started off down hill cause fleet trucks are piles of shit they are driven by people who don't own them and worked on by people who don't drive them. 20 bucks says you've never even tried this, just wanna talk shit on the internet, hope you enjoy your day flipping burgers
Tyler, you are of course 100% right. You can't fix stupid, just "thumb down" the troll and move along LOL. I just did both sides of my Dodge 3500 your way after I watched this video: ua-cam.com/video/8O6-wYeMdHM/v-deo.html&t=56.
Bs M I mean I make 6 figures with out a college degree I've very content with that, but I'm glad you can point out my poor grammar ! Keep trying to get your hubs off little man, maybe one day you'll figure it out
Hey, buddy, thanks for that video. Turns out you saved me a bunch of time and honey. I was ready to pool the spindle off breaking the The ball joints loose. I was not aware that that axle will simply pop straight out so yea. Looking at this video saved me time and money. I appreciate you
Time and money
A tip for next time with the hubs. Put the four bolts back into place, use a socket and extension, prop it between the bolts and the metal on the wheel well. Then proceed to turn the wheel to that direction. Use the hydraulic system to pop those bad boys off. Otherwise you spend all day pounding as you've learnt.
I wish that worked. Had one rusted pretty darn good and the hydro system wouldn't even budge it. Took one off the hard way with hammering, turning the wheel, and leaving dings where the socket and extension was locked onto. Then the other one, my special remover tool finally came in and zipped it off like it was nothing. Also probably why I am now having to go in and replace U joints but hey it works. Gonna put strain on something when its locked up that bad.
As a technician best video I've seen on repair, great job
Excellent video. You sounded so calm. I would of been a ,well you get the picture. Thanks for sharing.
It's narrated after the fact most likely so he had time to calm down after the frustration job lol
I use a 12 ton homemade press with a tool I designed specifically for U-Joints. The tool sits on the opposing journals which forces the cup out easily and I don't contact the yoke at all.
Great video, that's for posting!
Awesome editing, no extra bull**** just straight to the point! Super helpful, nice work!
Anyone who’s been working on cars would know this is Not an easy job to do. You did an outstanding job, granted and considering the tools you had. Nice work.
Exactly what Tyler said. Saved me a ton of time getting the back bearing housing off.
Tyler Allen is %100 correct.
I live in the rust belt of eastern Canada, and the bolt and socket extension and the power steering trick will definitely work to pop the unit bearing without an issue, no pullers or special tools required and no smashing ...
Well done my friend! Got a 99 Ram 1500 w\Dana 44 axle. D squeaking last time I was in 4low. Upon inspection found wobbly axle joints. Still hafta do em but think your vid will be helpful. Thanks for sharing. God bless!👍🇺🇸😎
well thanks for the heads up. was about to go after this myo and after watching this video without a press, I'm letting the shop handle this one
By far the best repair video I’ve ever watched, beer always helps lol
this was a great complete tear down and install with all the same problems i am having rite now. I can now go finish mine. Thanks a bunch
Just a shout out from Costa Rica to say thanks for this video. Funny coincidence that I'm an overlander too... used my dodge ram to pull an artic fox 5th wheel down thru central america... but found your video in search of advise on whether to take on the U joint project myself or not.
thanks nice info. made me realize I will take my truck to a service center thanks again for saving me .
You sir are a very patient man... I am to the point with mine where I am going to use some C4.
+Thomas Reedy if i had some C4, i would have been tempted!
Very helpful since I have the exact same pickup. Thank you.
The first time I pulled the hubs on my MegaCab I ran into the same trouble. 3 1/2 hours of pullers, air tools, pry bars, broken pullers, bent pry bars etc. I tried the extension on the hub/knuckle bolts but even that didn’t do it (it has worked every other time though). I was ready to torch the truck and call the insurance company by the time it broke free. Now everything gets an anti-seize coat and I swap the u-joints annually due to snow/silt/water crossings etc
Thanks for sharing! I have got to do mine. Have a Great Day!
Good video, short and to the point. Thanks.
Good video. I will give no buts like some of these others. My hubs have been replace fairly recently(3years ago) so I’m hoping I don’t have that problem. Some other videos didn’t address the u-joint clips. Thank you for doing so. I m familiar with driveline u-joints but these do not look the same. I think I will round up a shop press though. Thanks for a great video!!
+corey loftus thanks. Good luck with the install
Im about to do this on my 2011 Ram 2500. Thanks for the video.
dsim3211 you're welcome. Hope it goes well.
Was happy to take them to my local shop for $50 each remove and install new u joins
One thing is for sure, these trucks achille's heel seems to be ball joints and U joints. Did you notice if the new hub bearing assembly pulled the shaft out about 1/16" after torquing the nut? Mine used to be flush, meaning no gap between dust plate on the shaft and the axle hole. Now there is about a 1/16" gap.
Nice video, thanks for taking the time to post it!
Literally could not get my hub to pop out of the knuckle, I had to cut my upper and lower ball joints with a sawzall. 6 blades and an hour and a half later I was finally able to pull the knuckles. Tried the power steering press trick, torch to heat it up, 12lb sledge hammer with about 50 swings, I was ready to light the truck on fire to be honest. Never had a hub stuck so bad and my trucks from Florida. Woulda thought it would pop right off.
Big trucks have big parts and take big tools. I've been there a few times myself. Good vid.
Oh yea. Luckily I'm blessed with access to a great shop. Thanks.
Fucking a i appreciate taking your time to make the video. Maybe mine was squeaking awhile back but couldn't hear it over the diesel. Today i feel lucky to be home with the sounds it's making and the play it has. 504k miles... This thing gonna be a cunt...
One thing I learned doing this job on a 2005 Dodge 3500 4x4...Don't just buy new U-Joints and think that's it. You better go ahead and buy axle bearings, expect to discover ball joints need replacing as well and don't be surprised if you need a new knuckle or 2 and other stuff...mine ended up costing me about $500 in parts lol
Isn't that the truth. In many ways a person might as well just replace the lot if it's got any amount of mileage or hard use on them. Your already there pulling the hub/bearing assembly, u-joints, and ball joints are just hanging there.
Thanks for the vid. I hear the squeaks too.
Eric Loar you're welcome! Good luck with the repairs.
I felt you pain, i've done this to my 99 2500 4x4 2x, and am currently on #2, on #1 I used permatex anti seize on everything, and this time everything came apart easy pesy. 1 criticism, you should ALWAYS use spicer parts on Dana/spicer axles, it's just not worth taking the front end apart again cause of inferior parts, plus those axles joints are under tremendous stress, and those SKF's could fly apart, at least you used a press to change out the U-joints...Cheers, loved the vid.
Great vid. I think I'm looking at the same deal on my 2012 diesel truck.
I usually use it hot wrench to get them universals out. It’s a little smoky but once you blow on a little bit on them here and there they’ll come right out.
Nothing quite as funny as a guy using a hammer in fast motion. Great video man !
+Doug Schnider Thanks!
Awsome vid, and yes beer does help.
Great video, thanks.
CO45422 you're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Great video
Great vidro
So funny. I just went through the same exact thing with my front driver side hub. I ended up beating the shit out of it with a sledgehammer until the whole assembly came loose. Axle and all.
The easiest way to remove loosened hub is to put wheel back (If dually, turn wheel around, just like outer wheel in the back) give support to the frame with jack but don't lift it, start the truck and turn wheel left and right until you hear and feel it! It could save you a day and possibly a bearing. Just make sure you have solid support with jack and might have extra jack stand on lower setting, just in case.
Thank you for this video! I have been looking for a reason to buy a shop press. ;-)
+spanky762 nice!
Leave one of the hub bolts in, put socket and extension. Turn on truck, turn wheel. Pop goes the weasel
Wow nice impact gun. My dad's old snap-on wouldn't break mine off. Borrowed my uncles 3/4 breaker bar with a 6 foot black pipe and me 290 ish jumping about a foot or 30cm for my fellow Canucks to break it
I have an 08 Ram 2500 automatic with Cummins. I was able to get the assembly out with a socket & extension using power steering quite easterly. have everything off but have a couple questions. should I have the truck in 4 wheel drive or does it not matter? working on drivers side and axle doesn't want to come out. before I put some force on it want to be sure I'm not missing something. btw, great vid
When trying to get old ujoint out, would heating them with torch work?
you can loosen the four wheel hub bolts and gently hammer on them with the socket over the bolt head so no damage occurs to bolt head side to side and it pushes the hub out easily.
What is the socket size dodge you use to take the nut off? The big socket
Great video thank you
Good video
Great Video, but I was wondering is it necessary to remove the wheel bearing to replace the U-joints? After you remove the 4 mounting bolts can't you just pull the axle out?
+Classic Bassin yes, hub/bearing assembly must be removed. Yes, remove the four bolts to remove hub, then axle can slide out.
I recently replaced my u joint on my 2017 ram with the help of this video thanks. I had a terrible time getting the axle back in on the passenger side there was a splined piece misaligned that you could move with a long screwdriver. What in the world is its purpose ? Had to jack the truck up to get it to roll into place.
You can put a 18mm socket and short extension and with engine running, use power steering to push bolt to push hub off (steering lock to lock)
This job on the dodge trucks almost require you to leave the bolts backed half way out in the back of the hub assembly to use the steering to push it out with the socket and small extension
yep that rust sure reminds me of my truck. Was originally owned by someone in Colorado. If anyone knows of the best highest torque air impact for tight spaces out there that'd be amazing. As far as I'm concerned most any impact can only manage maybe 100 ft/lbs. I've yet to find one that actually exceeds what I can do with a breaker bar. And when I took that castle nut off for the first time there was a ton of rust that shook off the front end when it broke loose with a boom and a shudder.
oh wow I'm glad mine didn't split in half like that. My impact wouldn't do that and I was pretty much to my limit with a breaker bar with a floor jack handle cheater bar and it started to move. Whew.
Great video. I'm in the process of doing the same thing on my 04' 2500. Thanks to you I'm just going to pay a mechanic to do it plus put a dynatrac kit in. What kind of rims does your truck have and is the center big enough for a free spin kit like Dynatrac? Cool camper thing too.
+Samuel Barnette thanks, i'm glad it could inform you on a solid decision. I have stock dodge ram 17" steel wheels. Im not sure if they would fit the dynatrack kit. My guess is they do. The inside/hub holes in the center of my wheels are 4 11/16". Hope this helps.
Heathen Eagle Thanks for the reply. I have similar 17 stock rims. What kind of tires are you running in your truck...what size?
Samuel Barnette 255/80 r17 (33") Cooper STmaxx
i have to do mypassenger side thanks for the video
Off topic, I know those are probably just plain ole steel wheels, but where'd you get them? I love the look of them.
They came stock.
What is the socket size for the castle nut?
My 06 5.9 I just discovered has a loose u-joint, is there a reason why you didnt try using a torch??, 2nd question is the rotor a floating one? I always thought that the rotor and hub were bolted together, am I wrong? mine is a diesel, dont know if that makes a difference.. BTW Thanks for the video.. some of the other vids just skip over the hard stuff
I am in the middle of doing mine.
So far I damaged a wheel hub beating on it, bent a few wheel hub bolts, bent both yokes on the passenger side trying to get the joint out. Broke two 3/8in extensions doing the power steering trick, broke a rachet and one socket.
Ended up using propane torch and a 6 ton bottle jack against the frame. Still had to use a 2 foot extension on the bottle jack to get enough force to pop it lose.
Why in the hell doesn't the factory use antiseize? Good work it isn't an easy job.
I'm about to tackle this job on an 05 2500 with 85k miles. I've watched a few videos and read through a lot of comments but I have 1 question that hasn't been answered. My brother in law says there is a pin I have to pull in the differential. I haven't seen it done in any of the videos I watched. Is this true?
m91982 I know this is late but no you do not, those are called c clips, these do not have them
I like his voice it sounds like the guy from the sandlot
Yeah, never goes as planned. Be patient and have a second car.
I Allways zip cut the unjoint apart saves flopping around just don’t cut the yoke or shaft 😉
When you pulled the axle out, is there anything in the differential that can fall out of place. Someone told me to put the truck into 4x4 when doing this?
Nah, just pull the axle. Its all good.
need to get the BFH out for this job. and use powersteering to drive these out from back side.
Thank goodness that wasn't a bud light tommie
thank you
You could of used a dermal and cleaned up the burs and reused that shaft
Ctoffroadk20 i wish i could've, but the yoke was bent, too.
Its a minor point, but I too was wondering why you didn't just use a round file to debur the yoke. What part of the yoke bent in the press?
+Geek Stocks i bent one of the forks of the yoke. I was hesitant to bend it back as I was insure if any inaccuracies in fixing it this way might add asymmetrical stress on the I-joint.
Ahh! I understand now. From the sound of that press cutting loose you are lucky to still be singing bass LOL. Great video - thanks for the effort you took to make it.
You said you were replacing the other side also. Was it bad as well? U joints are not like headlights or wiper blades, you don't have to replace them in pairs.
Anybody have torque specs for the 4 rotor to hub bolts, and also the castle nut?
I may have missed it but how many miles on that beast? Bout to do this to an 05 with 108k .... hoping it goes a little smoother yikes. Good job
It’s an ‘06 with 69k miles.
I have a 99, just took out the original u-joints from the front axle at 208k.
Lisle makes a hub bearing removal tool you use with an air hammer/chisel, loosen the 4 hub bearing bolts only half way and rattle them out with the air hammer/chisel. Only about 35.00, worth every penny. Get the word out!!
+xxlxpman damn! I wish i had that air hammer! Thanks for the info.
It really works like a dream, the two tool set for older and newer Ram trucks is Lisle #38210.
I've owned the lisle tool for many years. On most vehicles they work ok as long as the hub comes out easily. On the really difficult ones they will still damage the bolts, and alot of times new bolts do not come with the new hubs.
Today I had an axle seized in the hub of a 2500 dodge diesel. I got it out by using a shop press and lots of heat. Then replaced the joint. Saved the shop 500 on the axle but obviously still needed the hub.
Sure you probably learned by now there is a much easier way to get the hubs out. When using the press to do the u joints, only apply a certain amount of pressure and then take a hammer and punch and blast the u joint, then try pressing a little more. If you don't you'll bend the ears etc
So does all the oil come out when you pull the axle out?
No
Nice! About ready to do mine, but going with a free spin kit. Do you know what socket you used on the axle nut?
On my 2003 I used a 1 and 11/16 in socket. Was able to get one from autozone for like 16 bucks
I used the power steering to pry the hub off.
Isn't it easier to undo the ball joints and tie rod instead of the hub?
** If you have the funds and want the easy way out with 100% sucess, you can buy the whole axle assembly with u joints installed ready to go for around $300-350 (RockAuto)
and wheel bearing hub assembly for $100+
Yes, it's a lot more money than a $25 u-joint, however pressing out front axle u joints are prone to bending the yolks, if that happens just a small amount the new u-joint life is shortened,
🔧🔧
Thank, man. Im not opposed to this!
Cutoff wheel saves time. Just watch out for needle bearings.
Had to cut mine off at the ball joints with an Sawzall metal blade and have the bearing hub assembly out. Tried all the trick and nothing worked. Tried the power steering method and it laughed at me. Tied a hub buster and nada. Tried heat and beat and then bought a 15 ton hydraulic puller. Still nothing. Tried the hydraulic puller and the power steering method in tandem together and even with heat but still failed so I did the last resort Sawzall method. That thing beat me up.
Sheeit. Sucks. Sorry bro
how much for a U joint?
If you have a cutting torch or a buddy with one you can just cut it out. It’s way easier
What size socket is that
1 11/16"
so the video is only 8 min, what was the real time to fix this?
Oh fuck. Maybe 5hrs!! Lol
Thanks for taking the time to show the steps, all your troubles are ones i normally see and helpful seeing your steps to get thru it!! What year is yours?
This is a good video, but I would point you and other viewers to the "power steering" method of hub removal which is a helluva lot faster. A nice video of that method starts here --> ua-cam.com/video/8O6-wYeMdHM/v-deo.html And with regard to the u-joint removal, the "THOR" method works quite nice, and that method is shown here --> ua-cam.com/video/9PpR-DcRV08/v-deo.html
+Geek Stocks Thank you for this!
The video I linked you to is a 2500. Mine is 3500 and it worked fine as well, just as his video shows. Why do you think it doesn't work?
"simply hasn't"? Um, you saw it work for yourself on the 2500 video. Its a fact - it works - the guy setup his camera and we all saw it work, so it "simply did". As far as your opinion on the steering components, you're entitled to it. My steering pump is just fine after doing both sides this way. These are strong trucks.
I actually just tried that method on my truck and it didnt work.
Some trucks have a bit more rust than others
HA! I suppose that is true! My truck is a 2007, so, that's 10 years of rust accumulation in salt country Ohio when I had success with the method I linked to. I guess "your mileage may vary" applies here.
what size tires are those??
255/80r17
@@Feraldrinker THNX
Hey man where did you order that from
Ouch
Very good video an Mary worked best😂
Some heat would have saved you a lot of time.
Thomas Celentano at the time i didn't want to cook the bearings. In the end, it didnt matter-changed bearings anyways.
This cant be ur first time doing this?...
+RAM TRUCKS i've yea, i've changed hubs, bearings, and driveline u-joints before, but this is my first steering u-joint, and first experience using a press.
"A lot of rust"....
Buddy that ain't anything
Good video