Time to Paint This Tiger's Interior: (Airfix 1/35 Tiger I "EARLY VERSION")
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- Опубліковано 18 тра 2020
- Hi Guys!
Today we are going to paint, detail, and weather the interior of this Tiger I! We are going to go over hairspray chipping, oil pinwashes, and some stain and streaking effects. One of the best parts of the effects I use, is that they only cost me about $20 to make.
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Scottish Bonsai is right! If tell about the 131 Tiger in Bovington, this tank manufactured in 1943 and keeps real colors. Top - RAL 9001 (A.MIG 017, M. Air (Vallejo) 71.270 ), bottom - greyblue (A.MIG 210, M.Air (Vallejo) 71.304 ).
This has to be the best tiger tank I have ever seen in my whole life plus thanks for uploading I am now going to do this to my tiger tank
glad to hear that you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Early tigers interior was grey and Elfenbine ivory more a beige from top ammo racks up! Actually Tiger 131 is perfect to use as a Reference all earlies were the same as 131
@@daveybyrden3936 yes I know
I used the same brand of oil paint and have no problems with it. I just started armor modeling about 9 months ago and started watching Panzer Mister36, Night shift, Adam Wilder and Plasmo to name a few. I have spent around $1000 so far and still need more materials,paint and equipment but it is worth it as i have retired 2 months ago. I like your style of narration and will continue to watch your channel.
God to hear it Tim! Want to hear a secret? I started modeling 2 years ago, so if you watch those guys, you’ll progress fast!
@@ScaleStudioModeling I have been toying with the idea of starting my own channel but don't know what equipment to buy any suggestions?
There’s quite a bit. I could make a short video on it, would that help? It may take a week or so, but if you wanted to really see my workspace and all. I know I’m not the biggest or oldest channel out there, but I think I’ve figured it out pretty good
@@ScaleStudioModeling That would be greatly appreciated
Looks very good. One suggestion...the floor of the turret will not be rusty where the paint wears off. The boots of the crew will leave bare metal which will be a dull shine. On my 1:25 Tiger I used metal polishing powder to create the base and then chipped the paint layer off where there would have been most wear from the crew's boots
I'm starting to build my tiger 1 from the World of Tanks collection. Great video. Thanks for ideas
Sure thing!
A great vid my friend, informative and easy to follow. I'm returning to armour modelling after some years and man have the techniques changed and the results you can get improved. Thanks for the inspiration mate.
Glad to hear it was helpful!
Great new channel. 👍
Hey man, I can see a few things that would improve your brush painting. One thing that would help your brush control a lot is being mindful of the shape of the paint on the tip of the brush. You should wet your brush and shape it to a point with your fingers before applying paint, then try to paint with that tip. When you pick up paint, touch it gently to the pallet so there isn't a globule around the tip. It also seems like you could stand to thin down your paints with a little more water. When you paint, touch the tip down in a central area and gently push toward the edges, letting curves guide the bristles. When the tip starts to run out of paint, you tend to paint with the middle of the brush (10:45), which means the tip paints areas you don't intend. Instead, just get more paint on the tip.
Thanks for the advice, I am definitely going to put these tips to good use! Greatly appreciated!
Very nice video. Appreciate your Tiger Tank. I'm working on Tamiya 1/25 scale Tiger 1. Thank's again for the tips. Godspeed:
Your video’s are verry helpfull👌it al looks simpele when you show it!!please keep Posting video’s like this👍
You got it! I will do my best
That was excellent work on the interior, it looms just right, watching this is going me confidence to do my T-55 with full interior, best regards from Australia 👌👍👌👍👌
Thanks you!
This is exactly my 5,000th liked video.
Nice!
@@ScaleStudioModeling thanks for being the 5,000 I hope I'm breaking a record.,btw your the first real great UA-camr that notice me and other fans of your genius.u don't see jacksepticeye or mark or pewds( sounds like pens) doing that so thank you for your respective THANK U FOR caring about the tigers insides and thank u for being perfect.btw.ps.ive tried a idea for shell impacts.by putting paint on a BB or PELLETS.( Depending on how suvier the damage) and shooting it for real essentially.if u use HTPE based plastic models that r kinda thick thell ether stop it or make really nice shell penetration.perfect for anywhere on Sherman or the back of a tiger.THANKS.
For sure Jax, maybe I’ll give that technique a ‘shot’ 😉
@@ScaleStudioModeling ha ha haaaaaa thank u.r u a dad!?🤣😂🤣
No 😂
I think meant to say thinned with mineral spirits, not lacquer thinner.
Useful guide to chipping, although chipping the jerry cans before painting their final colour seems a waste of time tbh. I might also have painted the hull and accoutrements separately before chipping and assembling them as it makes everything easier to do.
One other minor point, I don’t believe that internal components will have rust streaks running vertically, because they shouldn’t get that wet in use or storage. Oil streaks from leaks or overfilling maybe, but not rust streaks. Same pretty much applies to outside unless the tank has stood unmoving for some months. Rust chips yes, possibly, on carbon steel and iron, streaks unlikely.
The thicker side would have looked better if you didn't dig into it...I use a toothpick or stippling brush.
Great job, I just found out about your channel, I can’t wait to see the end result! There is one thing that I don’t like and it’s the intro sound because it reminds me of my alarm clock, but great work!
Haha! Oops, guess that’s a downside, and yeah, I know how you feel, I hate my alarm clock!
@@ScaleStudioModeling But seriously, you deserve way more subs!
Thanks!
@@ScaleStudioModeling I have subbed
@@jaxsullivan2117 thanks!
How did you like the build overall? I know it's an Academy reboxing, but I have been looking at it a few times.
Quite frankly, I didn’t like it the detail is pretty weak, the fits are bad, and some shapes are off. If you’re patient you may like it, but it’s a lot of frustration for a kit that has pretty minimal detail
@@ScaleStudioModeling so another $25 for the RFM one it is :). Their Sturmtiger is very detailed but the locating tabs are too large for a lot of pieces. Hence asking about this one
Yep! I would watch Adam Mann’s review on it if you want to make it historically accurate though, as I failed miserably in that regard
Gotcha
Looking good so far, What do you use to dilute the hairspray?
I used tap water. But now I generally just spray it on pure. I was using Vallejo back then, but have since switched to Tamiya
great video and channel , hard to believe its only a month old.
as for the satin lifting issues , maybe it didn't set properly?
I left it a day, but I think that the coat was too thin
@@ScaleStudioModeling maybe also test the mix you used for the oil , maybe the acetone reactivated it or something
Yeah, I just used Testors Enamel thinner. The problem is that Vallejo paints are notoriously weak, and even will be reactivated by different oil based thinners, so, really, I think I just need to get some more durable varnish or be gentler with the stuff I already have.
What did you thin the hairspray with?
Just tap water
The wrinkles? What did you water the varnish down with? Use bottled water not tap water. Tap water has chemicals added to it and can cause weird shit sometimes. Also switching between paints can leave a residue than can react with the next paint. Windex, or screenwash and then bottled water to flush through. Used to get issues when after Tamiya paints Vallejo would clog or react on the kit.
Thanks for the tip, yeah, I have switched primarily to the Tamiya
@@ScaleStudioModeling Got this tip from Harry Houdini. I use many types of paint. Now I use bottled water to flush between types I have no problems. Live in a hard water area, so chemicals added.
Yeah I do too Ian, thanks for the tip
A question, why didn't you thin the oil paints with enamel thinner?
I did, did I say lacquer thinner one the video? For future reference, I use testers universal enamel thinner for all of my oil paint work
Brother, you should've thinned oil or enamel paints with enamel thinner such as white spirit or turpentine or you can get the ones which modelling companies make, as for your satin varnish chipping off I'm so sure it got chipped off by the lacquer thinner you used to thin the oil washes, keep in mind that lacquer based paints have stronger chemical than acrylic and enamel paints so as their thinner, since lacquer thinner will easily wipe off any paint.
Gotcha, thanks! Yeah, I switched to Tamiya varnish, and really eliminated the problems I had with it
I’m currently building this model. I’m new to this and don’t under the instructions that state ‘Light interior 6 parts (colour) 2 parts (different colour)’. Can someone explain this to me as it doesn’t specify what bits I’m actually painting?
Actually its telling you what ratios of paint you should use. I find that its not a super great guide for painting. I recommend looking at a video tour or something at a Tiger I interior, as well as using a little "artistic license" (your imagination), to decide how you paint the details.
Scale Studio oh okay. Why not just say 1 part to 3 parts though? Thank you.
Not really sure, sorry, just making your life harder I guess
dilute the hairspray, with what?
water
Is there a modeling reason if the finish of the models is always completely matte? I visited the Saumur museum in France and saw the tanks in real life and they are not opaque, you can see that they are made of steel even if they are painted matte, so why?
Aesthetically they look much better flat or satin at scale. Gloss looks toylike on a scale model, unless applied sparingly in thin coats