A couple comments and questions... I am glad you have the 1' gap for the radiation barrier to work and you mention sealing the cracks so that this 2" layer can act as a vapour barrier... that appears to be open cell polystyrene which does not qualify as a vapour barrier. I suppose that is good since you don't want 6" of fibreglass insulation INSIDE of your vapour barrier. Anyone doing this type of super insulation should check the building code and I believe you will find for cold climates a vapour barrier must be on the heated side of the insulation.
+rfeinberg I only did two layers of pink insulation at the very peak of the ceiling. In the sloped portion of the ceiling/walls, it is only one layer of pink.
Hi there - I was curious if the vertical firing strips that hold in the final foam sheet are strong enough to hold the drywall. Is there any issue with the durability of those strips given that the screws are going through a layer of foam? I'm about to insulate our 100 yr old house and like your system, but was wondering about that issue. thanks!
Hi Peter, good question. Yes, the strips are plenty strong enough. Just make sure you use long screws when attaching the strips so that they reach all the way through the foam and are able to get a firm grip on the layer below the foam. After that, you should be all set. Thanks for watching and good luck on your insulating project.
Free Range People - thanks for the quick reply! That's good to know. The other thing I was was if you would do the first layer (closest to air space and roof) with only a 1 in foam board (I don't have the same rafter depth even with the addition of strips. Seems like convention is to keep one side breathable to avoid condensation on the inside of the "foam sandwich". I know someone asked a similar question but have you had any issues with condensation? I imagine the 2 " foam (1 st layer) might help with that. I really like your system but get some questions when I mention to others. Thanks again!
Peter Hill yes, 1" would still work, you would just lose a little R value. Make sure there is good air flow at the peak and eaves, plus make sure you leave a large air gap the whole length of your roof. Also seal along the edges of your foam board and you should be all set. One thing to be careful of is 1" board may flex so be sure to not stuff the battery insulation in too tightly over it. That could result in a smaller air gap. I don't anticipate ever having any condensation issues. My air gap is double what is standard and I have good air flow.
metal roof? what happens if wood rots outside?just wondrin. im doing same thing but starting on inside joist edge similar to dr energy savr techique w 4 in foam board
+richard michalko The way they install the metal roof, there is an air gap so the wood stays dry. Plus, it's insured for 45 years so I am covered if anything ever fails.
It never gets above 72F in there during the summer months even without AC. It also never got below 67F in the winter even without heat. And our temps can range from -15F to 105F.
We have just purchased a 130 yr old farmhouse on 25 acres. It is also post and beam construction, and we will be undertaking a reno such as you have done... as I"ve watched your insulating videos, I'm wondering about the vapor barrier - it looks like your initial low-density foam layer is pretty well sealed, then your fiber batts, then this exposed layer also appears to block moisture - are you planning to seal it as well? I've always understood vapor barrier should be on the warm side, so as to avoid moisture buildup/condensation affecting the structural members - how does your design deal with this? I look forward to watching more of your channel...
+Kristine Muysson Thank you for your question Kristine. You are correct that both of my layers of rigid foam act as vapor barriers. Because they are on both sides of the regular fiberglass batts, it essentially creates an air tight, dry sandwich. The finished side of the sandwich (the living space) is dry simply because it is finished. The other side of the sandwich has a 1" air gap with vents at the bottom and the top. This means that any moisture that gets onto the wood from the outside would dry quickly given a steady airflow in that space. This air gap wouldn't be necessary if I didn't do the exterior vapor barrier. Also, when I added the new metal roof, that significantly drops my chances of any leaks. In some of my earlier videos, I show how I did my 2nd floor exterior walls with normal insulation and plastic vapor barrier on the warm side, just like how you are describing. You are correct that in many cases, that is the normal way of doing it. Good luck with your upcoming renovation. It is a lot of work but very exciting as progress is made.
Not quite finished. I'll shoot another video soon. Sheetrock, framing etc... done. Basically just needs paint and floors. There is a part 4 thought. ua-cam.com/video/oRDkb3VPvW8/v-deo.html Thanks for watching.
A couple comments and questions... I am glad you have the 1' gap for the radiation barrier to work and you mention sealing the cracks so that this 2" layer can act as a vapour barrier... that appears to be open cell polystyrene which does not qualify as a vapour barrier. I suppose that is good since you don't want 6" of fibreglass insulation INSIDE of your vapour barrier. Anyone doing this type of super insulation should check the building code and I believe you will find for cold climates a vapour barrier must be on the heated side of the insulation.
Nice work friend. You gave me some good ideas. Best regards to you and your family.
Thank you
excellent work! labor intensive?
Yeah, but pretty much any job in a house this old ends up being labor intensive. Thanks for watching
Did you say that you placed a second layer of pink insulation and the ran horizontal boards? If so, what did you nail those to?
+rfeinberg I only did two layers of pink insulation at the very peak of the ceiling. In the sloped portion of the ceiling/walls, it is only one layer of pink.
what about ""propervents"",,in the south,roofs sweat ,without 'em...........causes major problems,seen it first hand......jda
Hi there - I was curious if the vertical firing strips that hold in the final foam sheet are strong enough to hold the drywall. Is there any issue with the durability of those strips given that the screws are going through a layer of foam? I'm about to insulate our 100 yr old house and like your system, but was wondering about that issue. thanks!
Hi Peter, good question. Yes, the strips are plenty strong enough. Just make sure you use long screws when attaching the strips so that they reach all the way through the foam and are able to get a firm grip on the layer below the foam. After that, you should be all set. Thanks for watching and good luck on your insulating project.
Free Range People - thanks for the quick reply! That's good to know. The other thing I was was if you would do the first layer (closest to air space and roof) with only a 1 in foam board (I don't have the same rafter depth even with the addition of strips. Seems like convention is to keep one side breathable to avoid condensation on the inside of the "foam sandwich". I know someone asked a similar question but have you had any issues with condensation? I imagine the 2 " foam (1 st layer) might help with that. I really like your system but get some questions when I mention to others. Thanks again!
Peter Hill yes, 1" would still work, you would just lose a little R value. Make sure there is good air flow at the peak and eaves, plus make sure you leave a large air gap the whole length of your roof. Also seal along the edges of your foam board and you should be all set. One thing to be careful of is 1" board may flex so be sure to not stuff the battery insulation in too tightly over it. That could result in a smaller air gap. I don't anticipate ever having any condensation issues. My air gap is double what is standard and I have good air flow.
metal roof? what happens if wood rots outside?just wondrin. im doing same thing but starting on inside joist edge similar to dr energy savr techique w 4 in foam board
+richard michalko The way they install the metal roof, there is an air gap so the wood stays dry. Plus, it's insured for 45 years so I am covered if anything ever fails.
cool
Did you guys ever post a finished product?
Not quite finished but close enough. Here you go ua-cam.com/video/ram64igFPr4/v-deo.html
How long would it stay cold in there if there was no sorce of heat?
It never gets above 72F in there during the summer months even without AC. It also never got below 67F in the winter even without heat. And our temps can range from -15F to 105F.
We have just purchased a 130 yr old farmhouse on 25 acres. It is also post and beam construction, and we will be undertaking a reno such as you have done... as I"ve watched your insulating videos, I'm wondering about the vapor barrier - it looks like your initial low-density foam layer is pretty well sealed, then your fiber batts, then this exposed layer also appears to block moisture - are you planning to seal it as well? I've always understood vapor barrier should be on the warm side, so as to avoid moisture buildup/condensation affecting the structural members - how does your design deal with this? I look forward to watching more of your channel...
+Kristine Muysson Thank you for your question Kristine. You are correct that both of my layers of rigid foam act as vapor barriers. Because they are on both sides of the regular fiberglass batts, it essentially creates an air tight, dry sandwich. The finished side of the sandwich (the living space) is dry simply because it is finished. The other side of the sandwich has a 1" air gap with vents at the bottom and the top. This means that any moisture that gets onto the wood from the outside would dry quickly given a steady airflow in that space. This air gap wouldn't be necessary if I didn't do the exterior vapor barrier. Also, when I added the new metal roof, that significantly drops my chances of any leaks. In some of my earlier videos, I show how I did my 2nd floor exterior walls with normal insulation and plastic vapor barrier on the warm side, just like how you are describing. You are correct that in many cases, that is the normal way of doing it. Good luck with your upcoming renovation. It is a lot of work but very exciting as progress is made.
Thanks for the detailed response - just the kind of info I was looking for!
Do you have an estimated ROI date?
I am guessing about 8 years
You taped the large pieces of foam but you forgot to tape the small left over pieces you used...
Incorrect. Everything was taped before sheetrock went on.
Oh ok. You did it after you shot the video of it not being there.
If the attic were to remain unfinished, does the building department in your area requires you to install drywall on the interior side of the wall?
so..is it finished already ? Part 4 ?
Not quite finished. I'll shoot another video soon. Sheetrock, framing etc... done. Basically just needs paint and floors. There is a part 4 thought. ua-cam.com/video/oRDkb3VPvW8/v-deo.html Thanks for watching.