I've done something that works well in older homes: Spray foam to seal all the gaps in the wall between OSB, studs, bottom, and top plates, then apply the rock wool insulation. This way, you block out all the critters and drafts. Getting even more mileage out of your wool is to seal off those gaps, which also helps seal out sound. Win-win
rockwool is the best for me, i did my own test, this staff dont burn and is water repellent, i bought a 62 year old house, i'm updating with rockwoolI, put it on the inside walls too, this keep the rooms very quiet
The best insulation for a wooden hause is stone wool, it does not burn, it is used to increase fire protection.. Do not use an insulation that will burn and or when burning or melting produces toxic fumes. The second advantage of stone wool is, that getting wet it keeps it´s shape and can dry out. It is not susceptible to critters. Otherwise it is a really good insulation in regards to heat and very good against sound. Blown in insulation should not be used in a new house, you can close cavities after filling them.
Rockwool or similar crumbles like wet bread when water introduced. 1st thing catches fire is house finishes. If fire goes past sheetrock, you better be out of the house by then, as framing wood is dry and burns extremely well. Foam, actually has fire ratings low enough so it's not supporting fire spread
Rockwool seems to be the way to go. Iam still not sold on sprayfoam. Cost is alot more and i hear about it being mixed incorrectly causing alot of issues in homes. Id go with rockwool in a 2x6 wall and spray in cellulose in attic at this time. Plus most of your heat loss is cheap windows, doors and not enough insulation in attic since heat rises!
Thank you for all the comparisons, they're really good. I encourage you to look into the toxic aspect of the various products and the need for increasing the air exchange by up to threefold to meet indoor air quality standards. One of the other big issues OSB flooring out gassing. Any research you could share?.....
Spray foam is a garbage product that 'may' be ok in a new house designed with proper air exchange, but it is definitely not recomended for any old house. The product overinsulates the envelope and traps moisture leading to rot and mold. This is a big problem in the UK where it has been widly used and there are over 250,000 houses that are not mortgageable becaiuse lenders will not wrrite mortages on them becauise of these problems. Here in the states we are seeing the same issues and many insurers will not insure homes if this prodict is used in roofing systems. Please educate yourself to the very real problems with this product.
😅 funny because they've been using it for decades and now there's a problem? Sounds more like inexperienced people are doing the work like homeowners instead of professionals.
@@brentonb6855this. There are many problems that can occur if you are uneducated. If you are educated in building science and have an understanding of how the product works, it’s a phenomenal product.
Bud. SMH. You just are obviously not educated on insulation and where and when to use the proper insulation. I’m sorry but every House is different and every situation is different. It’s common sense. It’s difficult for most people to understand. Because most people don’t have common sense.
would have been amazing if you walked up to what you used in each section and spoke directly on why you used that product specifically in that home, great video though
Good info and enjoyable... Surprised to hear the talk about the environment, I've just come back from the States on my first ever visit and can't believe what measures we take in Europe to help save the climate over the US... To be honest, seeing what little care there is, made me feel like not bothering at home anymore!
I'm work in construction in the UK and what we have had changed here in the last 20 years because of an apparent climate disaster has I believe led to far inferior products but I guess there is no going back now!
Neopor graphite infused polystyrene (GPS) what's missing from the discussion. The vast majority of residential builders are still using 2x 4 and r-13 insulation😢
R6 on walls with 2 windows in a condo ar current, but hurricane Milton made us remove drywall, now im seeing R6, not moldy, surprisingly, , in Tampa Fl, should i go higher to R13 or R18? Just your advice please
i wonder could you also use poly iso between rafters in your attic assembly. or would it make sense to add it to your external insulation? ie in addition to zip-r panel? say to create a 4" of polyiso insulation
Could you apply two layers of the poly-iso and not have a problem with the foil faces causing a vapor barrier? ( Two sheets of 1" ) tHanks again for the video!
Yes… a great deal…it’s great for warm or hot climates. The only place I have it in my Florida home is to insulate my west facing garage door…it does a great job keeping the temps reasonable in my garage midday
It is basically exactly what the name says, wool made from rocks. They melt stone until it becomes stringy enough to spin into a fiber and then spin it into a wool. This is totally not a correct explenation but it is the idea.
Hi. Please help me determine the best insulation. I have an unheated addition. The roof is metal. The condensation forms and drips. If i put insulation, is it guaranteed to stop condensation. I live in Canada. Thank you.
Condensation is caused by the difference in the air's ability to retain water being effected by a change in temperature. If the inside of the building is unable to touch the climate controlled air, it shouldn't be able to change the adjacent interior air's temperature and cause its water to condense from a gas into a liquid onto its surface. There's no guarantee though unless you make the insulation 100% perfect, but it should help
best? rockwool or fiberglass, i have my properties all lined with rockwhool in EU and US. IF you use sprayfoam it will light your house up like a roman candle.. WHoosh. Rockwool is noncombustible upto 1000 degrees C. Plus its used for soundproofing
There are plenty of ups and downs for every material. I am partial to cellulose for most of our builds due to cost vs insulative property. Good return on investment.
@@jake.bruton.aarow.buildingwell I guess that’s what a builder would say, forget the fact that cellulose settles and disintegrates over time creating a powdered mess in your HVAC system.
Some of the windows do not require headers because they are in non-load bearing walls. The windows that do require them are there but are already covered by closed cell spray foam.
@@jake.bruton.aarow.building awesome im no carpenter im a painter and building my son a home im curious as to if there is a lot of heat loss with headers and does it make a difference since there is no insulation in those spots.
They are not as good as insulation. However, this home also has continuous exterior insulation, so there is R-6 outboard of the header warming the system.
Because costs vary wildly across the country. It is nearly impossble to talk costs without someone screaming how expensive something is while someone else talks about “you could never get it that cheap in my market”. We try to avoid it simply because of the national pricing spectrum.
Crazy people, spray foam does not allow for easy remodel work. Horribly annoying to work a remodel to run plumbing/hvac/electrical removal to new installs. I’d triple my estimate.
Spray foam of any kind does make renovation very tough. So does brick though. In this home we used 2” of CCSP and it was installed prior to any electric, plumbinging, of HVAC. This way nothing is captured in the foam for the sake of future renovations.
@@jake.bruton.aarow.building I’m glad you used forethought. Majority of the time everything gets encapsulated in foam. Just speaking from personal experience.
I've done something that works well in older homes: Spray foam to seal all the gaps in the wall between OSB, studs, bottom, and top plates, then apply the rock wool insulation. This way, you block out all the critters and drafts. Getting even more mileage out of your wool is to seal off those gaps, which also helps seal out sound. Win-win
Did you use batts or blown in rockwool (if that still exists). Thanks
rockwool is the best for me, i did my own test, this staff dont burn and is water repellent, i bought a 62 year old house, i'm updating with rockwoolI, put it on the inside walls too, this keep the rooms very quiet
Rockwool is bad for your health
Aa😊f
If you put it on both sides of the wall you need to vapor barrier the inside, otherwise you'll get condensation and mold.
Rockwool is great for sound insulation, but also good at trapping moisture
The best insulation for a wooden hause is stone wool, it does not burn, it is used to increase fire protection.. Do not use an insulation that will burn and or when burning or melting produces toxic fumes.
The second advantage of stone wool is, that getting wet it keeps it´s shape and can dry out. It is not susceptible to critters. Otherwise it is a really good insulation in regards to heat and very good against sound.
Blown in insulation should not be used in a new house, you can close cavities after filling them.
Rockwool or similar crumbles like wet bread when water introduced. 1st thing catches fire is house finishes. If fire goes past sheetrock, you better be out of the house by then, as framing wood is dry and burns extremely well. Foam, actually has fire ratings low enough so it's not supporting fire spread
Isn't the sound resistance virtually the same as the fiberglass?
Rockwool seems to be the way to go. Iam still not sold on sprayfoam. Cost is alot more and i hear about it being mixed incorrectly causing alot of issues in homes. Id go with rockwool in a 2x6 wall and spray in cellulose in attic at this time. Plus most of your heat loss is cheap windows, doors and not enough insulation in attic since heat rises!
"mixed incorrectly" is why you hire certified installers who know how to maintain their machines. Go with the low bid and you get poor installs.
Not to mention fire safety. In our industrial machinery enclosures it’s steel stud, rock wool and fireproof plywood sheeting.
@@klaumbazswampdorf1764 certified installer means nothing, it does no warranty the job but it charges extra
Steel frames warp twist and fail long before timber frames. @@optimisticfuture6808
Thank you for all the comparisons, they're really good. I encourage you to look into the toxic aspect of the various products and the need for increasing the air exchange by up to threefold to meet indoor air quality standards. One of the other big issues OSB flooring out gassing. Any research you could share?.....
Spray foam is a garbage product that 'may' be ok in a new house designed with proper air exchange, but it is definitely not recomended for any old house. The product overinsulates the envelope and traps moisture leading to rot and mold. This is a big problem in the UK where it has been widly used and there are over 250,000 houses that are not mortgageable becaiuse lenders will not wrrite mortages on them becauise of these problems. Here in the states we are seeing the same issues and many insurers will not insure homes if this prodict is used in roofing systems. Please educate yourself to the very real problems with this product.
😅 funny because they've been using it for decades and now there's a problem? Sounds more like inexperienced people are doing the work like homeowners instead of professionals.
So your wrong ..the problem.is the home owner not updateing the home once they get the soray insulation which is a 1000 times better product
@@brentonb6855this. There are many problems that can occur if you are uneducated. If you are educated in building science and have an understanding of how the product works, it’s a phenomenal product.
That’s why there are different standards for different states/climates in every field.
Bud. SMH. You just are obviously not educated on insulation and where and when to use the proper insulation. I’m sorry but every House is different and every situation is different. It’s common sense. It’s difficult for most people to understand. Because most people don’t have common sense.
would have been amazing if you walked up to what you used in each section and spoke directly on why you used that product specifically in that home, great video though
Very interesting and informative thank you. I’m in zone 4 so it may not be as applicable as way down there where it’s warm
FYI, I am in Zone 4 too.
Excellent info. So thorough and professional. Thank you both for taking the time to do this.
Glad you enjoyed it!
We are Doing open cell spray foam on exterior walls and attic. Rockwool on interior walls.
Good info and enjoyable... Surprised to hear the talk about the environment, I've just come back from the States on my first ever visit and can't believe what measures we take in Europe to help save the climate over the US... To be honest, seeing what little care there is, made me feel like not bothering at home anymore!
It is a tough envirinment to build in. Folks don’t seem to be considering the future.
I'm work in construction in the UK and what we have had changed here in the last 20 years because of an apparent climate disaster has I believe led to far inferior products but I guess there is no going back now!
Climate change is a hoax
This is the most info. I’ve heard specifically on building applications. Very good!!!
Neopor graphite infused polystyrene (GPS) what's missing from the discussion. The vast majority of residential builders are still using 2x 4 and r-13 insulation😢
GPS is a big part of our toolbox now a days. We filmed this before we had access to GPS. Thanks for pointing it out.
Can that white fiberglass blown in insulation be use to for attic floor and hand toss in (like the cellulose grey one)?
Yes.
Menards sells shake and rake fiberglass insulation so I’m sure other places can get it if you don’t have a local one
i have a 12 bt 30 shead and can not get under the floor what can i put on the top of floor to
insulation
R6 on walls with 2 windows in a condo ar current, but hurricane Milton made us remove drywall, now im seeing R6, not moldy, surprisingly, , in Tampa Fl, should i go higher to R13 or R18? Just your advice please
Absolutely go higher if you can. Even in mild areas it is about stopping the flow of energy across the assembly.
With rockwool do you need to install vapor barrier?
I did because it's code required where I live
i wonder could you also use poly iso between rafters in your attic assembly. or would it make sense to add it to your external insulation? ie in addition to zip-r panel? say to create a 4" of polyiso insulation
That could probably work.
@@jake.bruton.aarow.building thanks for the reply. would also putting between rafters be of any value , or is it best as external insulation?
Could you apply two layers of the poly-iso and not have a problem with the foil faces causing a vapor barrier? ( Two sheets of 1" )
tHanks again for the video!
Need to be properly glued with no air gaps between substrate and insulation to avoid condensation
Excellent presentation. Thank you for the information much appreciated❤
Glad it was helpful!
Have you guys every worked with Prodex insulation? Is it any good?
No.
Everytime the guy in the blue shirt says “basically”, you drink! Party on!
Now that is funny!
tHanks for the video. Does the poly-iso lose R value in the very cold temperatures?
Yes… a great deal…it’s great for warm or hot climates. The only place I have it in my Florida home is to insulate my west facing garage door…it does a great job keeping the temps reasonable in my garage midday
What is Rockwood because it doesn't burn at all?
It is basically exactly what the name says, wool made from rocks. They melt stone until it becomes stringy enough to spin into a fiber and then spin it into a wool. This is totally not a correct explenation but it is the idea.
Is the gray paper mache type the least expensive and can be used in areas where there is foot traffic?
Hi. Please help me determine the best insulation. I have an unheated addition. The roof is metal. The condensation forms and drips. If i put insulation, is it guaranteed to stop condensation. I live in Canada. Thank you.
Condensation is caused by the difference in the air's ability to retain water being effected by a change in temperature.
If the inside of the building is unable to touch the climate controlled air, it shouldn't be able to change the adjacent interior air's temperature and cause its water to condense from a gas into a liquid onto its surface.
There's no guarantee though unless you make the insulation 100% perfect, but it should help
ton of great info, thanks!
Excellent video.
Glad you liked it!
best? rockwool or fiberglass, i have my properties all lined with rockwhool in EU and US. IF you use sprayfoam it will light your house up like a roman candle.. WHoosh. Rockwool is noncombustible upto 1000 degrees C. Plus its used for soundproofing
There are plenty of ups and downs for every material. I am partial to cellulose for most of our builds due to cost vs insulative property. Good return on investment.
I just watched another video where they said only open-cell spray foam is flammable, and closed-cell is not.
@@jake.bruton.aarow.buildingwell I guess that’s what a builder would say, forget the fact that cellulose settles and disintegrates over time creating a powdered mess in your HVAC system.
You used the term below grade. What does that mean?
Below grade level. Meaning below soil.
why are there no headers above the windows ?
Some of the windows do not require headers because they are in non-load bearing walls. The windows that do require them are there but are already covered by closed cell spray foam.
@@jake.bruton.aarow.building awesome im no carpenter im a painter and building my son a home im curious as to if there is a lot of heat loss with headers and does it make a difference since there is no insulation in those spots.
They are not as good as insulation. However, this home also has continuous exterior insulation, so there is R-6 outboard of the header warming the system.
Best? Dense Fiberglass, or Closed Cell Foam. Based on my insulation experience since 1966.
Rockwool i luv this stuff
Watch at 1.75x speed
Hey how are you doing today I am trying to do my shed
Thanks for the video! Informative and concise
This is going in my bathroom next
Thank you very much !!! Very clear, and hepful
You are welcome!
where is the PRODEX ?
Since we dont really do many metal buildings for residential we decided to leave it out.
Why no cost info given?
Because costs vary wildly across the country. It is nearly impossble to talk costs without someone screaming how expensive something is while someone else talks about “you could never get it that cheap in my market”. We try to avoid it simply because of the national pricing spectrum.
I honestly had to speed this video up, there was a lot of filler info that was unrelated to the topic.
Doing just fine but confused
Don't touch spray foam
thanks! can be better: list all names clearly and compare its R value and price!
Just subscribed 👍
Welcome aboard!
Don't try to compress Rockwool
Crazy people, spray foam does not allow for easy remodel work. Horribly annoying to work a remodel to run plumbing/hvac/electrical removal to new installs. I’d triple my estimate.
Spray foam of any kind does make renovation very tough. So does brick though. In this home we used 2” of CCSP and it was installed prior to any electric, plumbinging, of HVAC. This way nothing is captured in the foam for the sake of future renovations.
@@jake.bruton.aarow.building I’m glad you used forethought. Majority of the time everything gets encapsulated in foam. Just speaking from personal experience.
My god. Get to the points.
R 49 BATS where the hell did you live Fargo
A high R factor works for extreme cold or extreme hot climates
I fell asleep before I learned anything - get to the point man!
Hopefully if you fell asleep you let the video play all the way through anyway.
Xps has higher r value than poly iso
That isnt what the manufacturers publish. You will need to take that up with them. XPS is rated at R-5 and poly iso is R-6.
Basically we got...hmmm