Very helpful tutorial. Thanks for showing how an ordinary guy (like me) can get this job done. Perfect winter (NOT summer) project. You earned my subscription.
Did everything myself in my attic and I'll tell you it is tough. Crawiling in tight space and the making sure your not hitting your head on nails. Putting you body in very awkward position so your stepping on beams and not drywall. Not to mention hauling all your tools up the attic and most people dont have easy access to attics.
Pro Tip: Get a 50 foot (or however long you need) set of construction string lights and string them up in your attic. I have an extension cord attached to one end and just plug it in to the outlet by my attic access any time I go up. Also, cut up a few pieces of plywood into strips that will fit through your attic access and lay them across the joists where you are working. Use those to lay on or sit on when you are working up in the attic. I have found that decent lighting in the attic makes a huge psychological different when working in an attic. Being able to lay (somewhat) comfortably on piece of plywood instead of balancing on the joists also makes a huge difference.
Awesome work, Jim. That is definitely a lot of work but worth it. Especially on the those bathroom exhaust pipes! That condition had to be addressed! Again, great work!
The 24/16 baffles fit perfectly between 24" rafters & can be trimmed for 16" rafters... Cut each 24" panel along its embossed trim line. You will now have a wide & a narrow piece. Simply "nest" the pocket of the narrow piece inside the pocket of the wide piece & you will have created a perfect 16" panel. I found that adding double-sided carpet tape in the nested pockets produced a very rigid 16" panel.
Great job... its really not appreciated unless you have done this. I had to educate myself after our roofer we hired ruined our home with $75k in damage installing a bad roof. I learned so much after it had to be re-done. As you mentioned in the beginning, education is key!!! You also found the exhaust fan issues and the radiant barrier is a GREAT addition
Wow! Sorry to hear that you experienced all that damage. It's hard to believe how some home owners or contractors will perfomr work incompletely or completely wrong without taking the time to learn to do it correctly the first time....then, it's people like you and I that suffer the expense and labor for making it right. I hope your hard work pays off in the long run. Best wishes!
This video helped explain a lot of things to me and helped me get back on track to using baffles. I have an aluminum roof with old an cedar frame that gets super hot in the summer. I will probably install a radient barrier later as well. Thank you for your excellent video.
You provided a lot of good information. Thanks for sharing. I had similar issues. There is an old This Old House Tom Silva episode (How to Vent a Bath Fan Through the Roof | This Old House) that was useful for me. It looked like your roof sheeting was newer. Maybe it was just the lighting. If it was new sheeting, too bad the roofers did not put baffles in at that time. They make corrugated plastic baffles that can be fastened from above or below. (Matt Risinger's video: "Yep… This is my house.. and this is me fixing MY mistake" has the baffles at the 2m30s mark.) Good luck.
I've done the same lol. When I bought my house the bathroom vent was just shooting into the attic. I ran a longer foil duct and zip tied it to the gable. Figured it was shooting outside more than it was. It is properly vented now after getting my roof replaced.
Nice work. I'd consider blowing cellulose in there. It's a insect replant, rodent replant, fire retardant, great R-value, and water doesn't ruin it. Great product
Your attic has competing ventilation (both a ridge and gable vents). When the house was built, it was constructed with gable vents (ends of the house) and when the roof surface was replaced the roofer upsold you a ridge vent. This causes superheated attic temperatures that lead to premature roof failure and increased energy costs. Reroute your bathroom exhaust fans to the soffit vents on a cap and simply block off your gable vents from the inside.
What if you don't have soffit vents? My home has very narrow soffits with not enough room for vents. The previous owners had the roof replaced and added ridge vents as an addition to the existing gable vents.
My soffits weren’t vented so last week when having my roof re shingled I had something called smartvents installed. Look into it, may not work for you though.
Sure wish my house didn't need more insulation, but this video is good information. Now if I could just do it myself it would be great. Senior gal with a kaput back, so I will probably hire someone.
@@Nwladylaura369 Check with the pro desk at your local Lowe’s, Home Depot, or Menards. Private contractors will usually leave their contact information there to get work. If you go with blown in cellulose insulation, the store will usually give you free usage of the blower machine when you buy a certain number of insulation bales. The labor will usually cost about the same amount as the insulation cost, but it’s a worthwhile investment. Best of luck!
Your attic insultation looks like mine which is 77 vintage and only 3-4 in thick. I plan to suck out all of the old insulation, construction debris, wasp nests, etc. in order to be able to seal all of the air leaks before blowing in new insulation and dread the thought of the removal process more than anything else. Perhaps next fall.....right now I am in the process of sealing all of the metal HVAC ducting that I just took apart, cleaned out and reinstalled in my crawl space that I am also encapsulating which has turned into a time consuming project.
Thanks! I have another video about that coming soon. I ended up venting them thru the roof. It wasn’t really that hard to do. Just took some nerve cutting holes into the roof. FYI. Will be in Omaha this coming week visiting our son. Maybe will bump into you. Take care!
when you trim your piece for the 16" rafter spacing, overlap them after cutting. They are designed that way to accommodate the two sizes. taping two 8" pieces together is incorrect. It should be the 16" piece with the 8" piece piggybacked on top of it.
It's amazing people that build houses for a living never build the attic right to begin with, all kinds of problems even in new houses I'm finding with mine. Ice dams and non sealing of ceiling and attic ducts not sealed right.
Thanks for the useful and informative video. The hardest of this job for me would be negotiating the open joist bays. I once put my foot through the ceiling below. What a mess! Did you put down planking.
Yes, very difficult maneuvering around up there! I took a couple pieces of plywood up there and moved them around as needed. I actually think I cracked a rib at one point. I felt a pop and was hurting for the next three weeks.
Great Video - I am looking at doing some of this - this fall. What did you end up putting on top? Batts or did you get it blown in or did you DIY? Curious as we have a very low pitch roof and I'm afraid of those roof nails! We are near Toronto and I'm wondering what R value you went to.
@@susannyilas9308 I've used it at two of my last homes. It makes a noticeable difference immediately...although, it's a real pain to install. Best doing it in the late fall to early spring to avoid the high temperatures in the attic.
Since the weather is cooler, I need to buy some baffles and attempt to install them. My attic is a hot mess. Part of it was a flat roof so there isn't a gap for airflow from the soffit in some areas.
I haven't tried that for a flat roof. I hope you have plenty of good overhead clearance since it can be a tight squeeze up there. Be cautious and watch close for roof nails in the area where you will need to put your head. Those can be hazardous! Good luck with the project!
Vent those bathrooms straight up and out the roof! You don't want them venting into the attic at all. The attic should stay dry. It can get hot or cold but not damp or wet. Warm, moist air will condense on colder surfaces. If the warm moist condenses in those flexible vent pipes, they will likely freeze in winter and block the pipe, not allowing the bathrooms to vent
Yes, correct. Here is my part 2 video showing how I took care of that. Thanks for your comment! ua-cam.com/video/QBa3doyleXA/v-deo.htmlsi=A4noCP0NsXiLylXA
Yes, correct. Here is my part 2 video showing how I took care of that. Thanks for your comment! ua-cam.com/video/QBa3doyleXA/v-deo.htmlsi=A4noCP0NsXiLylXA
Once you pull out the insulation from the soffits and install the baffles, you could tuck those fiberglass batts back up against the baffles to avoid just throwing them away and to keep the blown in away from the baffles? Ok, I see that you did that. Those bathroom fan vents are at least directed to the gable vents. What they should have done as a minimum though is insulate those duct tubes so that the bathroom moisture would not condense and then freeze inside of them. But they're still better than I found them in my house, just venting right into the attic.
@@jimginnyohio Hmm. I see arguments for both keeping and removing them. I'm going to cover mine and set up some additional monitoring for temp and humidity. I have a 1984 build Cape Cod style. I dont have active ventilation and I'll need to replace my soffit panels with something like hardisoffit for added flow. Right now its just about a hundred 2" circular vents in them. I'm doing some air sealing (penetrations and the rafter bays arent blocked) and just picked up a Seek Compact IR camera to inspect the changes as I make them. I'm in central NC and humidity mitigation is a big deal with the shoddy construction practices around here.
@@jeremywatts2768 Here is my Part 2 video for this project: ua-cam.com/video/QBa3doyleXA/v-deo.htmlsi=dtJvrfefRNZ9P6r3 You can see that I added a piece of plywood over my gable vents on some stand-off boards so the vents are blocked except for about 1-inch all the way around them. I did this to help block some of the wind that was blowing straight thru the attic space, but still allow excessive hot air to escape when needed. I didn't think I should completely block them until I can get a better ridge vent installed.
@@2002chow I wouldn’t remove it until you’re ready to replace things. Usually when you get a new roof, you will get a lot of wood chips into your attic from the nail penetrations. If you’re removing the old insulation, you could clean up some of the wood chips too. Otherwise, it doesn’t hurt to just cover up the old insulation with new stuff. Although, you wouldn’t want to do that if there is mold in the attic. In that case, it’s best to remove everything.
Question for anyone. I just moved into a house and noticed some of the side vents are covered with insulation. Is there a way to scoop all the insulation out? I need to install these baffles.
Just wandering how you pull down the baffel soffit blocker? I have a really low pitch roof, and unless I make a hook or something I don't think I could reach the end of the baffel once it's pressed into place
@jimginnyohio I'm going to open them up because there was little to no ventilation. What's crappy is I just replaced the plywood on my roof last week and nobody suggested adding baffles at the time.
There's some debate about keeping an open vent from soffit to top vent vs just sealing the whole attic with spray foam. Curious what others think about this. I have a 100 year old house that needs insulation and my instinct is to use a similar vent to keep air flow, but I keep hearing that it may be best to just seal everything up tight.
Do you have any gas (propane or natural gas) in your attic space? If so it needs to vent and take in fresh air. Also, without an air exchanger in the space mold can become an issue.
Also in a 100 year old house, and the attic was mostly sealed up when I bought it. Since it's gotten cold, the heat from my house has risen to the attic and spread mold like crazy up there. I'm in the process of venting and re-insulating the attic space to prevent further mold growth.
I watched a great video on attic installation -old way vs newer way. It was very informative. ua-cam.com/video/ddjjwY6zzG8/v-deo.htmlsi=YzVCX2o1li-LgPAM
@@natew2610thank you. You are right. I just noticed that there are two gable vent on East side and West side. One of the insulation company told me, those belong to the natural air flow, the air will get in from one gable vent, and get out from the other…. I am not sure if it is true..
20:13 For sure, those are probably full of water in their low spots, what a terrible installation. The dust on them is unlikely to be mold, as it will not grow on inorganic material. However, those roof sheets are toast, loaded with mold and possibly weakened by it by rot.
I don't think you needed to install the baffles or the material. They are only needed if you were to install batt insulation between the rafters. The baffles would keep the insulation from sealing off the air flow, which is the reason they are used.
He's planning on using blown in insulation. those baffles help prevent that blown insulation from entering the soffit essentially creating an air blockage. They also prevent air or wind wash that can move the blown insulation from the edge.
Adding the radiant barrier and restricting the airflow to the rafter channel and won't allow air into the attic space except up near the ridge. You are likely to get a moisture and mold problem in the attic space thus negating the purpose of the baffles.
Not so! First of all, the radiant barrier is perforated. It has tiny holes every one inch allowing it to breathe. Also, it simply extends the distance of the baffles further up the rafter. This air movement up the channel acts as a natural chimney effect drawing the warm air up and out thru the ridge vent/cap.
Hello jimginnyohio, Thanks for the great video. I too live in Ohio and ran across a reflective insulation product at a recent home/garden show and am starting to do some research on that. One of the questions that I pondered as I watched a few of these videos, is whether the reflective type fabric (perforated foil with various tradenames it seems) should be installed below the roof or above the ceiling insulation. I saw that you chose to install it below the roof, which I think is a good for hot weather climates for reflecting heat in the summer - most videos of these products seem to focus on this method. However, I believe in Ohio, where we are equally concerned about heat loss in the winter, it is preferable to install the product above the ceiling insulation and would recommend your viewers to see this video ua-cam.com/video/FJZrJLiP3Pc/v-deo.html for the rationale behind that. Best wishes and hope you reaping the benefits of your labor.
All good points! I opted to attach below the roof to try keeping the attic space cooler in the summer months. I figured my insulation would better handle any loss of heat during the winter time. Also, I chose this same method at my last house (also in Ohio) and noticed benefits almost immediately.
Very helpful tutorial. Thanks for showing how an ordinary guy (like me) can get this job done. Perfect winter (NOT summer) project. You earned my subscription.
Boy, adding soffit vents and baffles in an existing attic is not easy! Impressed that you did all that in such a tight space.
Yes. Hard work…but got it done.
Did everything myself in my attic and I'll tell you it is tough. Crawiling in tight space and the making sure your not hitting your head on nails. Putting you body in very awkward position so your stepping on beams and not drywall. Not to mention hauling all your tools up the attic and most people dont have easy access to attics.
The roofing nails in the scalp tend to weigh on the mind after a while.
@@reginaldsaunders4319 Yes.... OUCH!!!!!! 😭
Pro Tip: Get a 50 foot (or however long you need) set of construction string lights and string them up in your attic. I have an extension cord attached to one end and just plug it in to the outlet by my attic access any time I go up. Also, cut up a few pieces of plywood into strips that will fit through your attic access and lay them across the joists where you are working. Use those to lay on or sit on when you are working up in the attic. I have found that decent lighting in the attic makes a huge psychological different when working in an attic. Being able to lay (somewhat) comfortably on piece of plywood instead of balancing on the joists also makes a huge difference.
@@MAGAMAN Absolutely agree with everything you said. I have a couple 100W LED bulbs on clamps and lights up the attic like daytime.
Great video! I did this all to my attic 3 years ago. Makes a huge difference. An electric staple gun helped immensely with the attic foil.
Awesome work, Jim. That is definitely a lot of work but worth it. Especially on the those bathroom exhaust pipes! That condition had to be addressed! Again, great work!
Thank you.
@@jimginnyohio What did you end up doing? Gable wall vent or roof deck?
The 24/16 baffles fit perfectly between 24" rafters & can be trimmed for 16" rafters... Cut each 24" panel along its embossed trim line. You will now have a wide & a narrow piece. Simply "nest" the pocket of the narrow piece inside the pocket of the wide piece & you will have created a perfect 16" panel. I found that adding double-sided carpet tape in the nested pockets produced a very rigid 16" panel.
Great job... its really not appreciated unless you have done this. I had to educate myself after our roofer we hired ruined our home with $75k in damage installing a bad roof. I learned so much after it had to be re-done. As you mentioned in the beginning, education is key!!! You also found the exhaust fan issues and the radiant barrier is a GREAT addition
Wow! Sorry to hear that you experienced all that damage. It's hard to believe how some home owners or contractors will perfomr work incompletely or completely wrong without taking the time to learn to do it correctly the first time....then, it's people like you and I that suffer the expense and labor for making it right. I hope your hard work pays off in the long run. Best wishes!
I'm fighting mold too. thanks for sharing your ideas and experience.
This video helped explain a lot of things to me and helped me get back on track to using baffles. I have an aluminum roof with old an cedar frame that gets super hot in the summer. I will probably install a radient barrier later as well. Thank you for your excellent video.
Good luck with your project.
Thanks for sharing very detailed attic problems and practical solutions.
You provided a lot of good information. Thanks for sharing. I had similar issues. There is an old This Old House Tom Silva episode (How to Vent a Bath Fan Through the Roof | This Old House) that was useful for me. It looked like your roof sheeting was newer. Maybe it was just the lighting. If it was new sheeting, too bad the roofers did not put baffles in at that time. They make corrugated plastic baffles that can be fastened from above or below. (Matt Risinger's video: "Yep… This is my house.. and this is me fixing MY mistake" has the baffles at the 2m30s mark.) Good luck.
Thank you. I will search for those videos to watch.
The bathroom fan tube to the gable vent is one of the most creative lazy solutions I've ever seen.
Yes, indeed! And created a mold issue too!
That needed to go away quick! ;-)
I've done the same lol. When I bought my house the bathroom vent was just shooting into the attic. I ran a longer foil duct and zip tied it to the gable. Figured it was shooting outside more than it was. It is properly vented now after getting my roof replaced.
@@porkchop10 Glad you got it fixed in the long run! Better safe than sorry! Huh?
I see it ALL the time
@@kendallwillis That's too bad! Why can't people just do the job correctly to begin with?! Does not look hard.
Nice work. I'd consider blowing cellulose in there. It's a insect replant, rodent replant, fire retardant, great R-value, and water doesn't ruin it. Great product
Yes, I did just that. Here is the next part of that video:
ua-cam.com/video/QBa3doyleXA/v-deo.htmlsi=9sLwy31G1UiI5rAS
Thanks for your comment!
Your attic has competing ventilation (both a ridge and gable vents). When the house was built, it was constructed with gable vents (ends of the house) and when the roof surface was replaced the roofer upsold you a ridge vent. This causes superheated attic temperatures that lead to premature roof failure and increased energy costs. Reroute your bathroom exhaust fans to the soffit vents on a cap and simply block off your gable vents from the inside.
What if you don't have soffit vents? My home has very narrow soffits with not enough room for vents. The previous owners had the roof replaced and added ridge vents as an addition to the existing gable vents.
My soffits weren’t vented so last week when having my roof re shingled I had something called smartvents installed. Look into it, may not work for you though.
Why would more venting via gable vents lead to a super heated attic? Does it undermine the airflow of soffit vents or something?
Sure wish my house didn't need more insulation, but this video is good information. Now if I could just do it myself it would be great. Senior gal with a kaput back, so I will probably hire someone.
@@Nwladylaura369 Check with the pro desk at your local Lowe’s, Home Depot, or Menards. Private contractors will usually leave their contact information there to get work. If you go with blown in cellulose insulation, the store will usually give you free usage of the blower machine when you buy a certain number of insulation bales. The labor will usually cost about the same amount as the insulation cost, but it’s a worthwhile investment. Best of luck!
I'm looking at doing a similar project. Well done.
Your attic insultation looks like mine which is 77 vintage and only 3-4 in thick. I plan to suck out all of the old insulation, construction debris, wasp nests, etc. in order to be able to seal all of the air leaks before blowing in new insulation and dread the thought of the removal process more than anything else. Perhaps next fall.....right now I am in the process of sealing all of the metal HVAC ducting that I just took apart, cleaned out and reinstalled in my crawl space that I am also encapsulating which has turned into a time consuming project.
@@blw3169 Yes, it was much work…and very dirty. Get some good coveralls, a dust mask/respirator, and gloves. Good luck!
Very helpful and informative. Thank you SO much for making this video!
Excellent, informative video. Thank you.
I appreciate the hard work. I know its A LOT!!!! Would love to see how you fix the vents. I to need to address venting from the bathrooms...
Thanks! I have another video about that coming soon. I ended up venting them thru the roof. It wasn’t really that hard to do. Just took some nerve cutting holes into the roof. FYI. Will be in Omaha this coming week visiting our son. Maybe will bump into you. Take care!
when you trim your piece for the 16" rafter spacing, overlap them after cutting. They are designed that way to accommodate the two sizes. taping two 8" pieces together is incorrect. It should be the 16" piece with the 8" piece piggybacked on top of it.
thank you for this information. i think you might be the only person on the planet that knows this.
Thanks for all the info and products.
Very thorough and informative
I used soffit vents for my bathroom fans. Don't have to worry about your roof leaking and any water condensing can drip outside.
That attic is so spacious. 😢
Very good video thank you very much for sharing.
It's amazing people that build houses for a living never build the attic right to begin with, all kinds of problems even in new houses I'm finding with mine. Ice dams and non sealing of ceiling and attic ducts not sealed right.
Outstanding video!
Thanks for the useful and informative video. The hardest of this job for me would be negotiating the open joist bays. I once put my foot through the ceiling below. What a mess! Did you put down planking.
Yes, very difficult maneuvering around up there! I took a couple pieces of plywood up there and moved them around as needed. I actually think I cracked a rib at one point. I felt a pop and was hurting for the next three weeks.
Great Video - I am looking at doing some of this - this fall. What did you end up putting on top? Batts or did you get it blown in or did you DIY? Curious as we have a very low pitch roof and I'm afraid of those roof nails! We are near Toronto and I'm wondering what R value you went to.
We ended up blowing in new cellulose insulation. It was the least costly and easiest option to go with. Thanks for watching!
@@jimginnyohio would you highly recommend the foil? I haven’t heard of that before.
@@susannyilas9308 I've used it at two of my last homes. It makes a noticeable difference immediately...although, it's a real pain to install. Best doing it in the late fall to early spring to avoid the high temperatures in the attic.
What did you/homeowner did with the mold caused by the exhaust fans?
Since the weather is cooler, I need to buy some baffles and attempt to install them. My attic is a hot mess. Part of it was a flat roof so there isn't a gap for airflow from the soffit in some areas.
I haven't tried that for a flat roof. I hope you have plenty of good overhead clearance since it can be a tight squeeze up there.
Be cautious and watch close for roof nails in the area where you will need to put your head. Those can be hazardous! Good luck with the project!
@@jimginnyohio I'll have to pay a professional to unblock the soffit airflow where the tar and gravel roof sections of my attic are.
I will do something similar - baffles and radiant barrier 👍
Vent those bathrooms straight up and out the roof! You don't want them venting into the attic at all. The attic should stay dry. It can get hot or cold but not damp or wet. Warm, moist air will condense on colder surfaces.
If the warm moist condenses in those flexible vent pipes, they will likely freeze in winter and block the pipe, not allowing the bathrooms to vent
Yes, correct. Here is my part 2 video showing how I took care of that. Thanks for your comment!
ua-cam.com/video/QBa3doyleXA/v-deo.htmlsi=A4noCP0NsXiLylXA
Yes, correct. Here is my part 2 video showing how I took care of that. Thanks for your comment!
ua-cam.com/video/QBa3doyleXA/v-deo.htmlsi=A4noCP0NsXiLylXA
Once you pull out the insulation from the soffits and install the baffles, you could tuck those fiberglass batts back up against the baffles to avoid just throwing them away and to keep the blown in away from the baffles?
Ok, I see that you did that.
Those bathroom fan vents are at least directed to the gable vents. What they should have done as a minimum though is insulate those duct tubes so that the bathroom moisture would not condense and then freeze inside of them. But they're still better than I found them in my house, just venting right into the attic.
Do you plan to close your gable vents since you have a ridge vent and baffles?
Yes. I'm not a fan of the gable vents at all.
@@jimginnyohio Hmm. I see arguments for both keeping and removing them. I'm going to cover mine and set up some additional monitoring for temp and humidity. I have a 1984 build Cape Cod style. I dont have active ventilation and I'll need to replace my soffit panels with something like hardisoffit for added flow. Right now its just about a hundred 2" circular vents in them. I'm doing some air sealing (penetrations and the rafter bays arent blocked) and just picked up a Seek Compact IR camera to inspect the changes as I make them. I'm in central NC and humidity mitigation is a big deal with the shoddy construction practices around here.
@@jeremywatts2768 Here is my Part 2 video for this project: ua-cam.com/video/QBa3doyleXA/v-deo.htmlsi=dtJvrfefRNZ9P6r3
You can see that I added a piece of plywood over my gable vents on some stand-off boards so the vents are blocked except for about 1-inch all the way around them. I did this to help block some of the wind that was blowing straight thru the attic space, but still allow excessive hot air to escape when needed. I didn't think I should completely block them until I can get a better ridge vent installed.
I need a new roof within the next 4 to 5 years. I have very old dirty fiberglass insulation but no baffles underneath. Should i just remove it now ?
@@2002chow I wouldn’t remove it until you’re ready to replace things. Usually when you get a new roof, you will get a lot of wood chips into your attic from the nail penetrations. If you’re removing the old insulation, you could clean up some of the wood chips too. Otherwise, it doesn’t hurt to just cover up the old insulation with new stuff. Although, you wouldn’t want to do that if there is mold in the attic. In that case, it’s best to remove everything.
Equalized temp in northern attics manley help with even ice melt on roof , keeping ice dambs from forming
Question for anyone. I just moved into a house and noticed some of the side vents are covered with insulation. Is there a way to scoop all the insulation out? I need to install these baffles.
If it’s loose insulation, like the blow-in type, a dust pan may work well.
Use a shop vac with a long hose.
Looks like you could use some Collar Ties in your attic.
Would love to get you to take a look at my attic I know this is going on can’t execute it myself.
Just wandering how you pull down the baffel soffit blocker? I have a really low pitch roof, and unless I make a hook or something I don't think I could reach the end of the baffel once it's pressed into place
@@glengarbera7367 Can you access it from outside the house by popping out the soffits?
@jimginnyohio I'm going to open them up because there was little to no ventilation. What's crappy is I just replaced the plywood on my roof last week and nobody suggested adding baffles at the time.
There's some debate about keeping an open vent from soffit to top vent vs just sealing the whole attic with spray foam. Curious what others think about this. I have a 100 year old house that needs insulation and my instinct is to use a similar vent to keep air flow, but I keep hearing that it may be best to just seal everything up tight.
Do you have any gas (propane or natural gas) in your attic space? If so it needs to vent and take in fresh air. Also, without an air exchanger in the space mold can become an issue.
Also in a 100 year old house, and the attic was mostly sealed up when I bought it. Since it's gotten cold, the heat from my house has risen to the attic and spread mold like crazy up there. I'm in the process of venting and re-insulating the attic space to prevent further mold growth.
I watched a great video on attic installation -old way vs newer way. It was very informative. ua-cam.com/video/ddjjwY6zzG8/v-deo.htmlsi=YzVCX2o1li-LgPAM
Thank you!
Good work
what is my house do not have the soffit end, which is fully closed. do i still we need the baffles?
If you don’t have soffit vent, you probably don’t need them, but you Igor want to add soffit vents later if your attic isn’t vented somehow.
If you don't have soffit vents it's likely because you have gable end vents. The two should not both exist in one attic.
@@natew2610thank you. You are right. I just noticed that there are two gable vent on East side and West side. One of the insulation company told me, those belong to the natural air flow, the air will get in from one gable vent, and get out from the other…. I am not sure if it is true..
Did you have to do any stapling?
I placed a couple staples into each of the baffles to hold them into place and also used lots of staples to hold up the radiant barrier.
20:13 For sure, those are probably full of water in their low spots, what a terrible installation. The dust on them is unlikely to be mold, as it will not grow on inorganic material. However, those roof sheets are toast, loaded with mold and possibly weakened by it by rot.
Nice job!
Thank you!
I put the radiant barrier in my 1900 sqft house took me two months off n on
Yes. Definitely a time consuming task when done correctly. But well worth it in the end since it will last for years, resulting in energy savings.
Did you notice a difference in temperature or not much?
You need about 4 times as much insulation
Research tells me this space needs to be conditioned space; remove venting. Sealed roof. Home ownership is depressing
Does research mean you had a moldy attic and had to spend thousands on foaming the decking?
Can you name and or link the radiant barrier product you used please? I’m having a hard time finding it. Thank you!
I ordered from EcoFoil.com. Their product is one of the best available. Good luck!
@@jimginnyohio thank you!!
The joists should be tying in the rafters...
They are not trusses .
Yes good information but a dirty job
You got that right! I was filthy every time I came down from there. Straight into the shower!
Use pump up sprayer 50/50 bleach n water
Yes, that is exactly the method I went with. I ended up doing that a few times over several weeks to insure all mold was eliminated.
I don't think you needed to install the baffles or the material. They are only needed if you were to install batt insulation between the rafters. The baffles would keep the insulation from sealing off the air flow, which is the reason they are used.
He's planning on using blown in insulation. those baffles help prevent that blown insulation from entering the soffit essentially creating an air blockage. They also prevent air or wind wash that can move the blown insulation from the edge.
Adding the radiant barrier and restricting the airflow to the rafter channel and won't allow air into the attic space except up near the ridge. You are likely to get a moisture and mold problem in the attic space thus negating the purpose of the baffles.
Not so! First of all, the radiant barrier is perforated. It has tiny holes every one inch allowing it to breathe. Also, it simply extends the distance of the baffles further up the rafter. This air movement up the channel acts as a natural chimney effect drawing the warm air up and out thru the ridge vent/cap.
Hello jimginnyohio, Thanks for the great video. I too live in Ohio and ran across a reflective insulation product at a recent home/garden show and am starting to do some research on that. One of the questions that I pondered as I watched a few of these videos, is whether the reflective type fabric (perforated foil with various tradenames it seems) should be installed below the roof or above the ceiling insulation. I saw that you chose to install it below the roof, which I think is a good for hot weather climates for reflecting heat in the summer - most videos of these products seem to focus on this method. However, I believe in Ohio, where we are equally concerned about heat loss in the winter, it is preferable to install the product above the ceiling insulation and would recommend your viewers to see this video ua-cam.com/video/FJZrJLiP3Pc/v-deo.html for the rationale behind that. Best wishes and hope you reaping the benefits of your labor.
All good points! I opted to attach below the roof to try keeping the attic space cooler in the summer months. I figured my insulation would better handle any loss of heat during the winter time. Also, I chose this same method at my last house (also in Ohio) and noticed benefits almost immediately.
Tape, gorilla tape , ....