I just did my 2000 sq ft shop this past weekend. I have a few tips that probobly have already been covered in other comments but I stopped reading after 5 minutes. 1. Buy enough bags to get the bulk price and return the ones you don't use, you will still get the bulk price. 2. If you buy 100 bags like I did, just pay for delivery, they will unload the pallets anywhere you want that the fork truck can go (in my case they went in my paint booth). 3. Don't bother with their machine if you buy cellulose. We clogged up immediately, after searching online for the instructions for that machine I found that it will void the warranty if it's not used with their insulation. 4. Insulation makes a mess! If your bread and butter is automotive paint, don't setup the machine in a paint booth thinking the ventilation fans will magically make it more comfortable for the "stuffer". You will spend an entire day cleaning. 5. Spray paint lines on truss webs at the height you want before you begin. lastly, take a nice sturdy piece of lumber up to move around on. Moving from truss to truss when spaced 48" is not fun, stepping on a loosely attached piece of lumber is also not fun when it gives out and you have 12' of distance and a .5" piece of drywall between you and a concrete floor...always be ready to grab something even if you think you are on a secure framing member.
I did this about 8 months ago. Lowes had an amazing deal on blow-in cellulose. They were selling 100 bags for about $550. The total R value is way overkill, but 100 bags was cheaper than 70 at the time. You definitely want a high quality respirator and a very bright light. It took about 6 hrs to fill a 1200 sq ft attic to a depth of 2 ft. It is really important to make sure you don't block the soffit vents if your attic is vented. You can use rafter vents which extend the soffit vents. They cost about $1 each. If you want to get the best value out of the insulation take the time to seal all the gaps before insulating. It's a lot of additional work, but about half of the energy loss for a typical old house is convective rather than conductive. Sealing the gaps in the attic will go a long ways to reducing the convection loss. GreatStuff Pro is a good choice for filling the gaps.
I've used this machine before. 10 bags is ALOT of insulation. What my Lowes store told me was to buy 10 and return what I didn't use. They wouldn't charge me for the machine that way. Tip to others.
I am a single mom and own my home and want to do this. I know I can manage it just by watching your video not too intimidated at all. I got this!!! Thanks so much for the video.
Jeff’s emotional presentation always seems like he’s already explained everything to six other beginner level classes in the same day, and he’s trying REALLY HARD to maintain his enthusiasm level
Hey.. boys good job, just a fyi the machine party has a cutter on the inside for the bags. Then I did my attic 2 months ago, it was hot!! We blew in 30 bags.. at each 10 bag interval I took a 15 min break. I had to do 24 inch for the R60. We also dead in remote. I had to call tell him to stop sometimes he couldn't hear the phone. DYI Tip: Instead of blowing insulation straight up, you could just cup your hand over the nozzle or stop piece of cardboard. Cheers thanks for your videos
Hey Jeff! I just wanted to give a huge thanks for all the hard work you and your crew do. I found you about 3 weeks ago while looking up some information on sound proofing and have been binging all of your videos ever since. So many useful tips and tricks!!! I've been working on some big plans that have only gotten bigger and better with your help. But more on that later...
Thanks man for all your videos, I live In Ottawa and bought an old 1930s house (first time home owner in Vanier) I have done so much work and was so nervous doing the work from change toilets, to electrical, to demo, to drywall - You have made it so much easier for me and have gave me so much confidence when doing projects - I cannot thank you enough. I still have so much more to go I do believe a have asbestos in my attic on my second floor of the 1930s part, I believe they sprayed blown insulation over top of it - Ceiling has newspaper as vapor barrier. Not looking forward to that project. THANK YOU
Getting ready to close on my first house at the end of the month. There is a section of the attic that no longer has insulation after a repair was done. I think now I feel confident enough to just do it myself. Thanks
I did this with cellulose at my place. I had R5 value in the attic and recieve a government grant from Quebec to insulate. I had to put cardboard baffles to keep the ventilation from the soffits to the attic. The machine I rented was similar but unfortunately it was beaten up pretty badly. It sounded awful due to the bearings being shot. Since the bearings were shot, it seemed as if it was forcing to turn; which would result in a slower output inside the tube and... You guessed it; clogged the tube up! This part was a nightmare as I had to come back out from the end of my house and start unclogging this monstrosity in the driveway. In any case, the hardest part out of all of that was to install the baffles (no room and your face is real close to mouse crap). Rest was a piece of cake even though the machine needed some maintenance. Oh and that grant I received... I actually made 400$ to insulate my own place up to R50!!
Looks fairly straight forward and cost wise tops. Can’t find hire mob in Australia but it may eventually get a run. Who knows right. Great video and your tips and shows get people motivated. Keep smiling.
Thanks for the step by step. I think I could totally to this to an attic when I get my own house. I like that I can leave the machine in the morning truck, that really makes in DIY.
My father and I used to do this in Maine in the late 90s. Our material was shredded newspaper and we funneled ours through 3" holes we cut at the top of the walls between the studs. It meant a lot of drywall repair. I always wondered if we could have saved time and just put a crown molding over the holes.
did it myself 2 years ago. Was the easiest job I've tackled since i bought my house. Anyone can do it paying someone to do it is a waste of money, unless you don't want to get dirty.
Over time I've become convinced there's NOTHING that you can't do!! You take the definition of "Jack of all of all trades" to another level! Impressive, helpful & pretty cool!
Great information. I own a home built in 1955, the insulation looks old, and I've been considering doing this to at least add to what's there. Thanks for the video!
I just want to say that blown in insulation helped me save a ton of money and make our house more comfortable during the summer/winter. I was also able to take advantage of energy efficiency grants through our electric utility that made hiring someone to do it just as cheap as doing it myself. I think the cost to rent the equipment and buy the insulation was going to be close to $600 at the time and to have someone do it would cost close to $800 with the grant. Something to look into if you have a tough space that would make doing it yourself challenging.
Hey Jeff thanks for the info dude. My wife and I just brought a 4500 sq ft home and our bedroom is FREEZING. Our attic is roughly 500 soft of open space. I’m going to try the blow insulation.
Hi Jeff, I will be going to Hone Depot and reserving one for next week. Thanks for your video. I’m going to clean out the old insulation and just put in all new.
Hi Jeff , how does this product perform fire rating wise. I am a firefighter in Australia. Over here people have been using a cellulose blown in insulation. During my time as a firefighter I have had several fire roof fires. The cellulose product is treated with a fire retardant, however overtime the retardant leaches out and the product become combustible. I really enjoy watching your great Videos ,thank you.
Your timing is great -- we're getting ready to insulate the attic in a couple of weeks! One question -- is it ok to use this type of insulation in the walls? Just cut a hole in the drywall between the studs and blow the insulation in? We have a house built in 1970 that doesn't have enough insulation.
Use a stud finder and locate your studs in the room. Drill 5 inch holes about halfway up the wall in between the studs. Then push the hose to the top of the cavity and let it fill wall from the bottom up as it drifts down into the lower part of cavity. You'll know it is getting full as the insulation/air pump will start to bog down. When it appears that the wall is full, start to slowly pull the hose out and allow the space where the hosed went to fill as as it is pulled out. Takes a little practice but you'll get the technique down after doing it a few times.
I'm currently working on my attic. I had vermiculite in there. For the safety of my family and their long term health I got it removed. Since then, I have been going up there weekly air sealing, insulating pipes, adding baffles and metal mesh to gable vents to keep out squirrels. Next I have to build up hatch and blow in the cellulose. Got 60 bags stored in my garage right now and have machine reserved for later this week. It's honestly so much work I want to puke. Some days after getting down from there i do puke. But I know in the end it'll be worth it cause I actually care about the project and what it adds to the house.
your 80's celulose, like mine, is probably that grey stuff... its also probably not even cellulose. Nothing was probably sealed when it was blown in either. It would be better if you vac'd all the old stuff out, foam sealed all the gaps, and then blew in new stuff.
If the house had no fresh air soffits, it would have been a great time to add at least a few on each side of the home. Then use baffles to allow the roof decking to breath.
This is definitely on my shorter list of project for next year after our mini-splits are installed. I figure it would be best to wait until the line sets have been run through the attic. I've seen these machine in Home Depot, but I didn't' know you could get the rental for free with a minimum QTY purchase. That's great!
i understand your thing about safety and protection but would in this case it not have benefited you to have those earpro headsets that you can talk to each other through? used to use them in the army when working under certain trucks and they worked wonders at bringing down the outside noise level while letting us communicate with anyone in the drivers seat in case anything crazy happened while were inspecting.
Is it something I could do or feel confident doing? Yes. Is it something I want to do? No I know for a renovation or touch up project you are limited which options to use. My preferred method of insulation is a continuous building envelop or rigid foam insulation (EPS or the like).
I am in South Florida, Half of my roof is a flat roof with about 8" rafters. I can access them from the main attic. there are vents in between each rafter. I have no insulation in the flat roof. Can I blow insulation in these rafters? How will it effect the venting of the attic? Thanks, George
What’s your recommendation on insulating rim joist? I have batt in there currently that’s all messed up so I was going replace. I was going to do 2” XPS foam caulked and then spray foam around it to fully seal. Thoughts?
Greta video. I need to reach a little further as it will be hard to navigate through the rafters of my garage attic. I don't know how heavy, stiff or manageable the hose is if you extend it out as far as possible. I was thinking I could tape a stick to part of the hose at the end to make it a little stiffer to reach it a little further, do you think that would work?
I have a ranch home with an enormous full attic across the whole footprint. It was blown in with old cellulose in the 60's maybe? And has all compressed. Is this something I can blow in on top of the old cellulose to restore the insulation and increase effective energy retention? I'm having a brand new energy star compliant roof put on in two days so that will help too, and reflect. Looking to help insulate and cover existing "insulated" ducting associated with the retrofit AC unit installed around the same time. It's very inefficient likely due to heat saturation in the attic space. 🤷🏽♂️ Looking for advice! Thanks! Single guy, middle income looking for simple things to do to help when I sell.
Another great video, thanks! I have an insulation question. I am contemplating insulating the space above my 3 car unheated attached garage. The attic space over the home space is well-insulated (blown) when house was built 6 years ago. I noticed that there are black pvc/plastic inserts(about 2" long) between the studs extending down to and sealing the vented soffit area. The blown insulation covers the insert except of course the attic end which is open. I am assuming these allow for air to flow from the vented soffit into the attic. My question, finally, is: should I install these vents in the garage? Garage has vented soffits. I do have one gable end ventilation grill, numerous roof top non-powered vents, and one Broan 356BK1600 CFM Roof Mount Powered Attic Ventilator, Black PVC Dome. which really seems to help with this Texas heat. Thank you for your help.
insulating the space above the garage will help to keep it cool. to avoid filling in the soffit air flow use rigid polystyrene rafter vents from Owens Corning and then blow in the insul. Cheers!
I,m in Eastern TN covering the old radiant ceiling in the atticwith the blown in insulation, can you tell me how the vapor barrier should go, I will only use the radiant ceiling heat if my heat pump failes.
I’ve got a split home 1978 that’s 2x4 framing. They’ve got blownin that’s just a little over the 2x4s. Should I got straight into additional blow in? Or should I get rid of the old, lad down new bats, then do blow in? Interested to hear. Obviously leaving the old would be less work!
Love your stuff had the hvac guys throw it in was 17 inches when installed five years later down to 6 inch in a lot of places did they do it wrong? Buddy used lowes machine was very diy friendly
Have you seen this anywhere.... I cannot for the life of me find anywhere that sells the polyweb or netting for blown in insulation in Canada... all over the US cannot find a place in Canada. I want to use it for an outbuilding pitched roof (barn style) - polyweb on attic side of the rafters to keep the insulation between the rafters... have you seen it around it is basic netting sells in US for $150 for 375'x10 at big box
@10:15 what did you seal up tighter than a drum? I saw no air sealing done before blowing in which is malpractice. Are there electrical wires or plumbing underneath the existing batts? Wall top plates? Chimney chase? Can lights?
Only concern is not telling people to put in vent protection at the ends of the roof. cause you don't want the insulation falling into your venting... Am I missing something here?
I did this a few weeks ago and the Home Depot machine was missing the second section of hose and also missing the remote...my helper and I had to lug the machine up to the attic. However, the process was easy and we got it done in a few hours. Not bad at all! Only $350USD for everything. Don’t pay anyone to do this for you!!
Nothing to do with video but great information. I want to know if you could do a video on average cost of renovating different areas in your home . Such as the bathroom, kitchen, living area, etc.
Great video! Should I waste time/energy removing the old old fiberglass batts that are up there right now or is it fine to just add the cellulose on top of the old crusty stuff? Also, we have a very low pitch gable roof, is it necessary to do extra compacting at the nearly unreachable edges or will a good pile up or cellulose be fine for that tricky zone? Thank you!
Don’t want to Obscure or block the soffits... It’s designed to allow/channel airflow up the rafters in order to keep the roof cool which make sure shingles less a lot longer
How long a hose can you get? My home is very long and skinny (New Orleans shotgun) and only one attic entrance near rear of home. tall ceilings too so I’d probably need 12 feet of hose to get to the attic and then like 30-40 feet to get all the way to front of house once in the attic? Just curious if they supply long hoses like that
My instinct: Either there's a big vacuum or you can borrow, buy or rent a shop vac with a wide diameter hose that is long enough to go wherever you need it. Biggest trouble would be emptying the canister often.
I have been watching your videos for the past two weeks and learning a lot. Thank you! What about the soffit vents and the baffles? I have been getting some estimates, but I am thinking I will do my attic spaces (behind knee walls) myself, with cellulose. I have a vertical log and board construction and had no soffit vents. I did have roof vents. I put soffit vents in. Concerned about getting insulation in the vent rafter chutes/baffles when blowing insulation in. What do you suggest? Thanks?
I thought the same. Maybe there was a ridge vent in this video. It would've been helpful to know since proper air movement is so important and blown in insulation can do more harm than good if seriously restricting the intake of new air.
I just did my 2000 sq ft shop this past weekend. I have a few tips that probobly have already been covered in other comments but I stopped reading after 5 minutes. 1. Buy enough bags to get the bulk price and return the ones you don't use, you will still get the bulk price. 2. If you buy 100 bags like I did, just pay for delivery, they will unload the pallets anywhere you want that the fork truck can go (in my case they went in my paint booth). 3. Don't bother with their machine if you buy cellulose. We clogged up immediately, after searching online for the instructions for that machine I found that it will void the warranty if it's not used with their insulation. 4. Insulation makes a mess! If your bread and butter is automotive paint, don't setup the machine in a paint booth thinking the ventilation fans will magically make it more comfortable for the "stuffer". You will spend an entire day cleaning. 5. Spray paint lines on truss webs at the height you want before you begin. lastly, take a nice sturdy piece of lumber up to move around on. Moving from truss to truss when spaced 48" is not fun, stepping on a loosely attached piece of lumber is also not fun when it gives out and you have 12' of distance and a .5" piece of drywall between you and a concrete floor...always be ready to grab something even if you think you are on a secure framing member.
You need 25-3o bags.
I did this about 8 months ago. Lowes had an amazing deal on blow-in cellulose. They were selling 100 bags for about $550. The total R value is way overkill, but 100 bags was cheaper than 70 at the time. You definitely want a high quality respirator and a very bright light. It took about 6 hrs to fill a 1200 sq ft attic to a depth of 2 ft. It is really important to make sure you don't block the soffit vents if your attic is vented. You can use rafter vents which extend the soffit vents. They cost about $1 each. If you want to get the best value out of the insulation take the time to seal all the gaps before insulating. It's a lot of additional work, but about half of the energy loss for a typical old house is convective rather than conductive. Sealing the gaps in the attic will go a long ways to reducing the convection loss. GreatStuff Pro is a good choice for filling the gaps.
That is a heck of deal! How long are the soffit vent extensions? Do they just go up the roof rafter bay above the height of the insulation?
I've used this machine before. 10 bags is ALOT of insulation. What my Lowes store told me was to buy 10 and return what I didn't use. They wouldn't charge me for the machine that way. Tip to others.
Good tip!
Oh wow!
Used this same trick last week at home depot! Worked like a charm lol
Exactly what I was thinking
Good tip! Thanks!
Like an old Master, Jeff hides no secret to doing things PERFECTLY, and sharing them. Thanks, Man!
I am a single mom and own my home and want to do this. I know I can manage it just by watching your video not too intimidated at all. I got this!!! Thanks so much for the video.
I was planning on doing this at the end of the month for the first time, and I was scared that I would mess it up. Thanks Jeff, for easing my worries!
Jeff’s emotional presentation always seems like he’s already explained everything to six other beginner level classes in the same day, and he’s trying REALLY HARD to maintain his enthusiasm level
Hey.. boys good job, just a fyi the machine party has a cutter on the inside for the bags. Then I did my attic 2 months ago, it was hot!! We blew in 30 bags.. at each 10 bag interval I took a 15 min break. I had to do 24 inch for the R60. We also dead in remote. I had to call tell him to stop sometimes he couldn't hear the phone.
DYI Tip:
Instead of blowing insulation straight up, you could just cup your hand over the nozzle or stop piece of cardboard.
Cheers thanks for your videos
Hey Jeff! I just wanted to give a huge thanks for all the hard work you and your crew do. I found you about 3 weeks ago while looking up some information on sound proofing and have been binging all of your videos ever since. So many useful tips and tricks!!! I've been working on some big plans that have only gotten bigger and better with your help. But more on that later...
Welcome aboard!
Thanks man for all your videos, I live In Ottawa and bought an old 1930s house (first time home owner in Vanier) I have done so much work and was so nervous doing the work from change toilets, to electrical, to demo, to drywall - You have made it so much easier for me and have gave me so much confidence when doing projects - I cannot thank you enough. I still have so much more to go I do believe a have asbestos in my attic on my second floor of the 1930s part, I believe they sprayed blown insulation over top of it - Ceiling has newspaper as vapor barrier. Not looking forward to that project. THANK YOU
Getting ready to close on my first house at the end of the month. There is a section of the attic that no longer has insulation after a repair was done. I think now I feel confident enough to just do it myself. Thanks
I did this with cellulose at my place. I had R5 value in the attic and recieve a government grant from Quebec to insulate. I had to put cardboard baffles to keep the ventilation from the soffits to the attic. The machine I rented was similar but unfortunately it was beaten up pretty badly. It sounded awful due to the bearings being shot. Since the bearings were shot, it seemed as if it was forcing to turn; which would result in a slower output inside the tube and... You guessed it; clogged the tube up! This part was a nightmare as I had to come back out from the end of my house and start unclogging this monstrosity in the driveway. In any case, the hardest part out of all of that was to install the baffles (no room and your face is real close to mouse crap). Rest was a piece of cake even though the machine needed some maintenance. Oh and that grant I received... I actually made 400$ to insulate my own place up to R50!!
The funny thing is I was thinking of doing this very soon. Great short video Jeff you take gave me the push I needed to get this done
Nice job, was thinking about improving my insulation from the builder. 15 year old home in Atlanta...
Looks fairly straight forward and cost wise tops. Can’t find hire mob in Australia but it may eventually get a run. Who knows right. Great video and your tips and shows get people motivated. Keep smiling.
Thanks for the step by step. I think I could totally to this to an attic when I get my own house. I like that I can leave the machine in the morning truck, that really makes in DIY.
My father and I used to do this in Maine in the late 90s. Our material was shredded newspaper and we funneled ours through 3" holes we cut at the top of the walls between the studs. It meant a lot of drywall repair. I always wondered if we could have saved time and just put a crown molding over the holes.
did it myself 2 years ago. Was the easiest job I've tackled since i bought my house. Anyone can do it paying someone to do it is a waste of money, unless you don't want to get dirty.
Over time I've become convinced there's NOTHING that you can't do!! You take the definition of "Jack of all of all trades" to another level! Impressive, helpful & pretty cool!
Could you make a video on how to blow in insulation to existing wall. Thanks
Great information. I own a home built in 1955, the insulation looks old, and I've been considering doing this to at least add to what's there. Thanks for the video!
I just want to say that blown in insulation helped me save a ton of money and make our house more comfortable during the summer/winter. I was also able to take advantage of energy efficiency grants through our electric utility that made hiring someone to do it just as cheap as doing it myself. I think the cost to rent the equipment and buy the insulation was going to be close to $600 at the time and to have someone do it would cost close to $800 with the grant. Something to look into if you have a tough space that would make doing it yourself challenging.
I insulated with three different companies for over a decade. Cellulose is the way to go. Just my opinion. Love the videos. Keep up the good work
This video might finally convince my father that it's worth it for me to do it myself instead of hiring someone!
New roof going on this week, then I'll be insulating - this video could not have come at a better time!!!
Hey Jeff thanks for the info dude. My wife and I just brought a 4500 sq ft home and our bedroom is FREEZING. Our attic is roughly 500 soft of open space. I’m going to try the blow insulation.
Hi Jeff, I will be going to Hone Depot and reserving one for next week. Thanks for your video. I’m going to clean out the old insulation and just put in all new.
Will be doing the attic in my newly build garage, 1360sq/ft. Will need 30 bags!
Hi Jeff , how does this product perform fire rating wise. I am a firefighter in Australia. Over here people have been using a cellulose blown in insulation. During my time as a firefighter I have had several fire roof fires. The cellulose product is treated with a fire retardant, however overtime the retardant leaches out and the product become combustible. I really enjoy watching your great Videos ,thank you.
Im about to do it right now! Thanks for the video!
Your timing is great -- we're getting ready to insulate the attic in a couple of weeks! One question -- is it ok to use this type of insulation in the walls? Just cut a hole in the drywall between the studs and blow the insulation in? We have a house built in 1970 that doesn't have enough insulation.
-Good question Nancy! Hope you get an answer!
I'm also very interested to know this.
Use a stud finder and locate your studs in the room. Drill 5 inch holes about halfway up the wall in between the studs. Then push the hose to the top of the cavity and let it fill wall from the bottom up as it drifts down into the lower part of cavity. You'll know it is getting full as the insulation/air pump will start to bog down. When it appears that the wall is full, start to slowly pull the hose out and allow the space where the hosed went to fill as as it is pulled out. Takes a little practice but you'll get the technique down after doing it a few times.
@@rockymntain This is brilliant. I would've gone in at the top, but now I can picture exactly how that could leave a gap.
Matt looks so thrilled to be there 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for the videos
Awesome, thank you. I'm going to be doing blown in cellulose in my ceiling,
Thanks for this video. I was trying to decide between hiring a contractor or DIY and now i’m going DIY.
I'm currently working on my attic. I had vermiculite in there. For the safety of my family and their long term health I got it removed. Since then, I have been going up there weekly air sealing, insulating pipes, adding baffles and metal mesh to gable vents to keep out squirrels. Next I have to build up hatch and blow in the cellulose. Got 60 bags stored in my garage right now and have machine reserved for later this week.
It's honestly so much work I want to puke. Some days after getting down from there i do puke. But I know in the end it'll be worth it cause I actually care about the project and what it adds to the house.
Love watching your videos
Can you combine this with already-blown cellulose-based insulation from the 80s?
your 80's celulose, like mine, is probably that grey stuff... its also probably not even cellulose. Nothing was probably sealed when it was blown in either. It would be better if you vac'd all the old stuff out, foam sealed all the gaps, and then blew in new stuff.
Would've liked to see you install eave insulation baffles.
I don't have fresh air soffits on this old house. Cheers!
If the house had no fresh air soffits, it would have been a great time to add at least a few on each side of the home. Then use baffles to allow the roof decking to breath.
I'm all into doing this but all the videos I've seen so far say I have to do sealing and baffles...any thoughts on that?
this guy on the right looks very comfortable on camera
This is definitely on my shorter list of project for next year after our mini-splits are installed. I figure it would be best to wait until the line sets have been run through the attic. I've seen these machine in Home Depot, but I didn't' know you could get the rental for free with a minimum QTY purchase. That's great!
Great job Man!
i understand your thing about safety and protection but would in this case it not have benefited you to have those earpro headsets that you can talk to each other through? used to use them in the army when working under certain trucks and they worked wonders at bringing down the outside noise level while letting us communicate with anyone in the drivers seat in case anything crazy happened while were inspecting.
At first glance I thought that machine was an ATM, which made perfect sense to me as someone who owns an old home.
I think I could even do this!!
Thanks Jeff! Inspired by your video and got the job done today!
Is it something I could do or feel confident doing? Yes.
Is it something I want to do? No
I know for a renovation or touch up project you are limited which options to use. My preferred method of insulation is a continuous building envelop or rigid foam insulation (EPS or the like).
Great video, installing heat pump in the house, afterwards gonna get this from Home Depot, fantastic deal, thank you.
Great tutorial
Yet another video of a job that I am needing to do very soon. How do you do that all the time?
So I bought a pretty old house, and I need to reinsulate the attic. Do I try and get rid of the old stuff? Or just blow in new stuff on top?
Shouldnt you install foam batting on the ends for the ventilation of th soffits?
You got an instant 'like' for the Christmas type music and pink snow reference.
Merry Christmas Jeff & crew!
Your son looks like he's thinking, "How bout shut up and lets get this thing over, I have better things to do."
I’m sure he does
I would like to see his son put something together or install something. He must know plenty.
I am in South Florida, Half of my roof is a flat roof with about 8" rafters. I can access them from the main attic. there are vents in between each rafter. I have no insulation in the flat roof. Can I blow insulation in these rafters? How will it effect the venting of the attic? Thanks, George
This is much more expensive in the US. We looked into doing this to our attic, around $800 not including the machine rental fee.
Thanks Jeff & son...
Thank you.
this is next on my to do list.
What’s your recommendation on insulating rim joist? I have batt in there currently that’s all messed up so I was going replace. I was going to do 2” XPS foam caulked and then spray foam around it to fully seal. Thoughts?
enjoyed the video, but what about "unblocking" the soffits??? does that need to be done? so there is some ventilation ??
Thanks boys much appreciated
What's a good way to double check that the eves in the roofing are sealed properly before blowing insulation in the space?
How can confirm that you hit the far spots by the rafters joists?
Greta video. I need to reach a little further as it will be hard to navigate through the rafters of my garage attic. I don't know how heavy, stiff or manageable the hose is if you extend it out as far as possible. I was thinking I could tape a stick to part of the hose at the end to make it a little stiffer to reach it a little further, do you think that would work?
I want to insulate my attic better. Can I use blown in for the vaulted ceilings?
I have a ranch home with an enormous full attic across the whole footprint. It was blown in with old cellulose in the 60's maybe? And has all compressed. Is this something I can blow in on top of the old cellulose to restore the insulation and increase effective energy retention? I'm having a brand new energy star compliant roof put on in two days so that will help too, and reflect. Looking to help insulate and cover existing "insulated" ducting associated with the retrofit AC unit installed around the same time. It's very inefficient likely due to heat saturation in the attic space. 🤷🏽♂️ Looking for advice! Thanks! Single guy, middle income looking for simple things to do to help when I sell.
Yes david. top up the existing with new and even different material is fine. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thank you so much!
Another great video, thanks! I have an insulation question. I am contemplating insulating the space above my 3 car unheated attached garage. The attic space over the home space is well-insulated (blown) when house was built 6 years ago. I noticed that there are black pvc/plastic inserts(about 2" long) between the studs extending down to and sealing the vented soffit area. The blown insulation covers the insert except of course the attic end which is open. I am assuming these allow for air to flow from the vented soffit into the attic. My question, finally, is: should I install these vents in the garage? Garage has vented soffits. I do have one gable end ventilation grill, numerous roof top non-powered vents, and one Broan 356BK1600 CFM Roof Mount Powered Attic Ventilator, Black PVC Dome. which really seems to help with this Texas heat. Thank you for your help.
insulating the space above the garage will help to keep it cool. to avoid filling in the soffit air flow use rigid polystyrene rafter vents from Owens Corning and then blow in the insul. Cheers!
Wondering about how to keep the insulation out of the soffit vents while doing this?
I,m in Eastern TN covering the old radiant ceiling in the atticwith the blown in insulation, can you tell me how the vapor barrier should go, I will only use the radiant ceiling heat if my heat pump failes.
Thanks
I’ve got a split home 1978 that’s 2x4 framing. They’ve got blownin that’s just a little over the 2x4s. Should I got straight into additional blow in? Or should I get rid of the old, lad down new bats, then do blow in? Interested to hear. Obviously leaving the old would be less work!
What are some key points to look for in attic?
Could you film a video or share resources for how to insulate an existing exterior wall yourself on a budget?
I'm interested in doing so. However, I'm foam would be a issue with lighting
Is it possible to blow that in a Cathedral / Vault old house?
Love your stuff had the hvac guys throw it in was 17 inches when installed five years later down to 6 inch in a lot of places did they do it wrong? Buddy used lowes machine was very diy friendly
Have you seen this anywhere.... I cannot for the life of me find anywhere that sells the polyweb or netting for blown in insulation in Canada... all over the US cannot find a place in Canada. I want to use it for an outbuilding pitched roof (barn style) - polyweb on attic side of the rafters to keep the insulation between the rafters... have you seen it around it is basic netting sells in US for $150 for 375'x10 at big box
@10:15 what did you seal up tighter than a drum? I saw no air sealing done before blowing in which is malpractice. Are there electrical wires or plumbing underneath the existing batts? Wall top plates? Chimney chase? Can lights?
does the installation get in the far cracks a long the eves? Great Video!
Can I use this to blow in between a floor and ceiling? I am trying to reduce sound from a studio room that has exposed joists an adjacent utility room
I'm definitely doing this project this upcoming Spring. You are my go to guy to learn how to do the mountain of projects to reno my home.
What about keeping insulation out the the eves. I have 4 vents on the front of the house eves . No clue how to keep these open.
by the styrofoam baffles to protect your fresh air intake
I’m in Alberta, what about airflow? Was waffles installed to block soffit flow installed prior to blowing in?
Only concern is not telling people to put in vent protection at the ends of the roof. cause you don't want the insulation falling into your venting... Am I missing something here?
I did this a few weeks ago and the Home Depot machine was missing the second section of hose and also missing the remote...my helper and I had to lug the machine up to the attic. However, the process was easy and we got it done in a few hours. Not bad at all! Only $350USD for everything. Don’t pay anyone to do this for you!!
Nothing to do with video but great information. I want to know if you could do a video on average cost of renovating different areas in your home . Such as the bathroom, kitchen, living area, etc.
Great video! Should I waste time/energy removing the old old fiberglass batts that are up there right now or is it fine to just add the cellulose on top of the old crusty stuff?
Also, we have a very low pitch gable roof, is it necessary to do extra compacting at the nearly unreachable edges or will a good pile up or cellulose be fine for that tricky zone?
Thank you!
Don’t want to Obscure or block the soffits... It’s designed to allow/channel airflow up the rafters in order to keep the roof cool which make sure shingles less a lot longer
Can you add multiple extension for thé machine?
Should I remove old insulation before putting in new? Or just add to?
How long a hose can you get? My home is very long and skinny (New Orleans shotgun) and only one attic entrance near rear of home. tall ceilings too so I’d probably need 12 feet of hose to get to the attic and then like 30-40 feet to get all the way to front of house once in the attic? Just curious if they supply long hoses like that
Ty sir!
A Tim Hortons cup cut in half and taped to the end can help direct the flow if needed also.
Do they make a machine to suck out the old insulation? I've got their styrofoam bead like insulation and I want it gone.
My instinct: Either there's a big vacuum or you can borrow, buy or rent a shop vac with a wide diameter hose that is long enough to go wherever you need it. Biggest trouble would be emptying the canister often.
Yes pending on where you live rental places have them but you may have to contact a insulation company to come do the removal.
You can rent one made for sucking out insulation from a dedicated equipment rental business. It'll be pricey though.
@An Sar Thankfully mine is not vermiculite it's pure white annoying AF shredded polystyrene insulation
I have been watching your videos for the past two weeks and learning a lot. Thank you!
What about the soffit vents and the baffles? I have been getting some estimates, but I am thinking I will do my attic spaces (behind knee walls) myself, with cellulose.
I have a vertical log and board construction and had no soffit vents. I did have roof vents. I put soffit vents in.
Concerned about getting insulation in the vent rafter chutes/baffles when blowing insulation in. What do you suggest? Thanks?
I thought the same. Maybe there was a ridge vent in this video. It would've been helpful to know since proper air movement is so important and blown in insulation can do more harm than good if seriously restricting the intake of new air.
shouldnt you make sure the attic is air sealed before hand
Did the attic area not need venting?
what is the downside of putting more than 16 inches of insulation, is it only cost? Or can you have too much?
How do you know where to insulate ?