Enjoy watching the whole process - thanks! I'm not much of a mechanic, so when people skip over the hard stuff and "flash" to the end result I can't learn very well.
Pounding on a pin punch with a tack hammer that is used for furniture? The spring is a one-way clutch. It expands to lock on the OD in one direction (when you push down on the starter pedal). When it is relaxed it becomes smaller, releasing. It is know as a type of a Sprag Clutch.
Nice job! I enjoy watching you figure out thru process and elimination. You have a working mind when it comes to mechanical engineering. I had a grandpa who could fix anything mechanical, be it a Swiss watch or a deisel engine. Thanks for posting. Loved it!
That was fun to watch. When you bypassed the 250 triple I thought "aw... that would be fun to play with" but seeing a motor that old start and run reasonably smooth is always great!
Out of curiosity, why didn't you clean off all that dirt and grit before trying to take things apart ?! Clean projects allow you to see the small, but sometimes critical details. That, and the grit is less likely to get into places you don't want it.
If you had engine for year why didn t you clean the dirt off it and spray it down with penetrating oil so now come to work on it .may freed the sparkplug up so it be easier to come out
Yeah I did I think it needs the original coil put back on it myself. It'll bring more value out of it just by doing that to it also. If your trying to fix it up to resale it again.,or just plain out restoring it. I'd spend the $150.00 on the coil for something that is that old for sure. Just because they don't even make those types of engines anymore for the USA.& Most likely anywhere anymore not unless china.,or some other country besides China is building those engines now elsewhere.
You got it running, and that's the main thing. Some older engines can be nasty to fire up after sitting for long lengths of time, but this one wasn't bad. I have picked up old outboard marine engines of the late 40's and through the 50's from scrap dealers, and got them back up and running right again. Many were old Evinrude's, Johnson, and OMC engines. Some old opposed 2 and 4 cyl. engines, with cork floats in carbs. It's nice to see others getting old engines back up and running again. Good video.
I have a 1934 briggs model y engine. it uses the original ignition system. I need a new coil for mine. max rpm should be 1800 and that mixer is made of cast zinc, or pot metal. anything abrasive can melt it. I collect these model y engines to preserve them for future generations.
I LOVE the tack hammer!!!! If you have ever seen any of Mustie1's vids, he always uses an automotive body hammer for everything lol Really awesome repair video!!! I love your videos, keep 'em coming!!!!
Amazing how fast you were able to rig up a coil ignition but it would have been nice to see what the resistance readings were on the coil and condenser. It might not have been all bad.
The seal ring prevents the oil from penetration into the spark plugs threads even when hested - In cases it better to put oil in the cylinder and turn the engine up side down and heat the.plug and let it cool - as it cools some it draws the oil into the threads -
Sometimes when a shaft or something has been seized for years really heat it up then quickly drench it in cold water, lots of cold water. The expansion and contraction often breaks the seizure on a rusty corroded sized part.
Tapping the wrench, like when you were taking the spark plug out, will work better than brute force or a cheater bar. The percussion from the hammer will break the threads loose with less possibility of twisting the threads out with it
I have two of these engines I got with a bunch of stuff. The first one I took apart, it looks like it was under water. Everything inside is all rust. I need to break the other one open and see what is what. I really like the kick start pedal. I would love to get one running. I am watching to learn.
It's great to see a briggs of this age get up and run, if you don't know old briggs and stratton engines just keep going but get smokey due to valve stem wear. Going on the difficult cold start I can almost guarantee the valves will need to be seated again (lapped)
Need to soak the whole thing down in thin used oil,then wrap it up in a larger electric blanket for a couple of days....The whole thing will come apart nice and easy..
Did you ever try to rebuild the ignition coil on that engine. The mag core looked like it was still good. Seems to be an easy fix to cut the old copper out and rewind with new. copper mag wire. The capacitor may have still worked but I doubt it also. But a new capacitor should work just as good there, same for the points. Then you could leave off the battery and you'd be back to a more normal state. Good work I might add. I ultimately had to do something like what you did on my Dad's old Kohler welding machine years ago. On that one, the coil was potted and I could not find replacements any longer. I never did think about rewinding an old coil core and making my own insulation at the time. I just needed to get it running to weld up some stuff that broke on his tractor. I saw the video you made about that Briggs I/C engine on an old lawn tractor. Its amazing that you revived that engine with no more that you did to it.
A 12-point socket might have fit over the sprocket I helped wash clothes with a motor just like this one back in the early forties, no electric we had a two battery powered radio that really works good we made our own soap for the clothes and we had coal oil lights I would love to see you get some of those old engines running
That is known as a spring clutch. They are prevalent in nearly all modern photo copiers for drive clucthes. They grab one way and slip the other. A spring can be wound cw or ccw.
A tip for removing rusty nuts and bolts, always try to tighten first, so if you strip it, you can still have proper grip to unfastened it. (Most of the time it will break it free)
Get a wash tub fill it with diesel fuel and cheap transmission fluid and set the whole engine down 👇 in it to soak for a few days.if water 💦 got in the threads and sized it the fluid will get in and eat the rust and corrosion, make life a whole lot easier.
Personally, I would rather have an 87 yr old side valve Briggs engine as it's probably way more reliable than the crap they send out today. I've had more than one Briggs and scrappem where con rod was machined too tight on crank-pin, so instead of fixing it, just leave the bolts loose. The 'quality control' seems to be non existent No wonder people are using Chinese motors!
An old technique that I was told to loosen seized nuts and bolts was to heat them up like you are doing, but when they are still hot, you hold a wax candle on them as hot wax is a lubricant and penetrates better than any oil. I have used this technique for many years and always found it to work better than oil I have used in the past(before I was told of the wax candle plus heat method). Good video hope there’s more to come 👍👍
Hot wax has been debunked. The only reason it seems to work is because you're heating the hardware up. That's the only thing having any effect. Thermal shock is what loosens seized hardware up. The expansion and contraction breaks down the oxidization. Rust is just crusty.
You know I'm not sure but it seems to me that you might want to put a outboard hose and primer bulb between the tank and carb cause she doesn't seem to have any diaphragm in the carb and the tank is lower than the carb .so with the primer bulb you have a check valve cold starting give it a few pumps to get it running and after she starts the check valve would keep fuel from draining back into the tank making it easy to start .looks like only can pull fuel up from the tank from vacuum from the piston that's why it's hard to get started. I'm almost sure the rings are somewhat worn causing it to not have as strong of a vacuum. I'm not sure cause I can't see the engine that well but worth a try
Yes it will run it's a Briggs and Stratton I don't even need to watch the video to know that it will run...how do I know? Ask my 30 year old lawnmower that's been run on kero, methanol, 2 stroke fuel and just about anything else that can burn.. still has the same sparkplug and has had one oil change in its life.. that's how I know 🤣😂🤣 great video mate keep em coming
We used to just cut the head off of a cotter pin with a chisel in those situations and then punch the rest out. On stuck threads heat and beeswax works wonders.
I don't know why you but I did the oldest impression at that starter lever is in the wrong position it should be higher it's almost like it's been positioned incorrectly maybe I'm wrong but definitely looks like that
On a stock engine, the kick starter sits almost vertical when at rest. The frame that this engine is bolted to doesn't allow the kick starter to return all the way back to vertical. I'm guessing it may have interfered with the wash tub that would've been above it.
Now if you had a small 6 volt generator ( like a bicycle generator) for the power to the coil,,and an exhaust tap to the fuel tank to pressurize the tank it would be self contained again no battery needed!
You should have put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinder and let it sit for a while. It works wonders on stuck engines. I have a MAC 120 sitting with the cylinder full of it in the shop.
Should have done some research into what you are doing? Such as fastening the machine to the bench, remove either your head, or at least lose the cap??
Try heating it up( the plug) next time and melt CANDLE WAX ON IT! YOU'LL BE AMAZED !! THE WAX WILL MELT DOWN AROUND THE THREADS! That also works great on PIPE THREADS TOO! JUST GET IT HOT ENUFF TO MELT THE WAX! NOT CHERRY RED!!
Boy I'm only seven minutes in and I can already tell that you have no business in a garage much less instructing others. Go back to bagging groceries and leave mechanics to the big boys.
What a great video. Very smart idea hooking up a 6 volt coil. Ole Bessie sounds great
I truly hope that you sand blast it and paint it. It's truly a great piece of history. Restore it back the way it was.
I would have used emery cloth on the starter shaft before trying to get the shaft out
Great idea. An oversight on my part.
Enjoy watching the whole process - thanks! I'm not much of a mechanic, so when people skip over the hard stuff and "flash" to the end result I can't learn very well.
Well done on getting it to run, Would have loved to seen a full tear down/rebuild though,
Pounding on a pin punch with a tack hammer that is used for furniture? The spring is a one-way clutch. It expands to lock on the OD in one direction (when you push down on the starter pedal). When it is relaxed it becomes smaller, releasing. It is know as a type of a Sprag Clutch.
Not the best tool for the job, but it was within arm's reach.
I thought the tack hammer was quite useful and maybe appropriate with the tight confines of the exhaust pipe.
@@motormindset8227 I LOVE the tack hammer!!!!
The hammer didn't know it wasn't hitting a tack......
Nicely done, the suspense had me! Looking forward to more
Nice job! I enjoy watching you figure out thru process and elimination. You have a working mind when it comes to mechanical engineering. I had a grandpa who could fix anything mechanical, be it a Swiss watch or a deisel engine. Thanks for posting. Loved it!
That was fun to watch. When you bypassed the 250 triple I thought "aw... that would be fun to play with" but seeing a motor that old start and run reasonably smooth is always great!
The triple will be coming up, don't worry!
I have been lucky enough to have a Suzuki 380 triple and a Kawasaki 550 triple. Those little motors will rev to the moon with only a few mods
Very well done sir, this is the kind of content that sparks my interest. Thank you for that.
This was enjoyable to watch. Didnt feel like over an hour. Nice job! Old stuff was built to last, and work on.
Out of curiosity, why didn't you clean off all that dirt and grit before trying to take things apart ?! Clean projects allow you to see the small, but sometimes critical details.
That, and the grit is less likely to get into places you don't want it.
I got a little ahead of myself. I usually wash and degrease my projects before I start on them.
If you had engine for year why didn t you clean the dirt off it and spray it down with penetrating oil so now come to work on it .may freed the sparkplug up so it be easier to come out
I should've done that, but I had a lot going on at the time and forgot about it.
Oh ok easliy done
Ok, if this is your first channel and you're doing videos this well, you got something here! Well done! Subbed!
Thank you, I'm glad to hear it!
Yeah I did I think it needs the original coil put back on it myself. It'll bring more value out of it just by doing that to it also. If your trying to fix it up to resale it again.,or just plain out restoring it. I'd spend the $150.00 on the coil for something that is that old for sure. Just because they don't even make those types of engines anymore for the USA.& Most likely anywhere anymore not unless china.,or some other country besides China is building those engines now elsewhere.
It’s a washing machine motor, designed to run at one speed. My grandparents had one……
Ever heard of PB BLASTER OR KROIL? YOU NEED TO STOCK UP ON SOME TOO!
You got it running, and that's the main thing. Some older engines can be nasty to fire up after sitting for long lengths of time, but this one wasn't bad. I have picked up old outboard marine engines of the late 40's and through the 50's from scrap dealers, and got them back up and running right again. Many were old Evinrude's, Johnson, and OMC engines. Some old opposed 2 and 4 cyl. engines, with cork floats in carbs. It's nice to see others getting old engines back up and running again. Good video.
I have a 1934 briggs model y engine. it uses the original ignition system. I need a new coil for mine. max rpm should be 1800 and that mixer is made of cast zinc, or pot metal. anything abrasive can melt it. I collect these model y engines to preserve them for future generations.
I LOVE the tack hammer!!!! If you have ever seen any of Mustie1's vids, he always uses an automotive body hammer for everything lol
Really awesome repair video!!!
I love your videos, keep 'em coming!!!!
That engine was used on a washing machine.
Use a brass hammer on the crank
Diagonal cutters make short work of cotter pins.
Amazing how fast you were able to rig up a coil ignition but it would have been nice to see what the resistance readings were on the coil and condenser. It might not have been all bad.
Brother, excellent job! Keep them coming. Subbed!
Thank you! Lots more content to come.
The seal ring prevents the oil from penetration into the spark plugs threads even when hested -
In cases it better to put oil in the cylinder and turn the engine up side down and heat the.plug and let it cool - as it cools some it draws the oil into the threads -
Sometimes when a shaft or something has been seized for years really heat it up then quickly drench it in cold water, lots of cold water. The expansion and contraction often breaks the seizure on a rusty corroded sized part.
I love videos like this! Subbed!!
Thank you!
Tapping the wrench, like when you were taking the spark plug out, will work better than brute force or a cheater bar. The percussion from the hammer will break the threads loose with less possibility of twisting the threads out with it
My Instructor used to say 'if it doesn't work, use a bigger hammer'.
I have two of these engines I got with a bunch of stuff. The first one I took apart, it looks like it was under water. Everything inside is all rust. I need to break the other one open and see what is what. I really like the kick start pedal. I would love to get one running. I am watching to learn.
Well done, this was a blast watching you get this running again. Definitely interested in more videos to come!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it! Lots more content is on its way.
the fuel mixer valve is on bottom,the thing with the spring you adjust it for the speed.The are cool motors,i have about 8or 10 of them.
your engine are superb, defo worth looking at..............
Power wash your project first so ur not working in Old dirt
It's great to see a briggs of this age get up and run, if you don't know old briggs and stratton engines just keep going but get smokey due to valve stem wear. Going on the difficult cold start I can almost guarantee the valves will need to be seated again (lapped)
were did you get that ? i have 5 of them
I too want to see that triple run. I was the proud owner of a gt380. One of the sweetest machines of the past.
Had one of these to mess with when I was 13 or 14. Don't remember what happened to it.
Need to soak the whole thing down in thin used oil,then wrap it up in a larger electric blanket for a couple of days....The whole thing will come apart nice and easy..
Did you ever try to rebuild the ignition coil on that engine. The mag core looked like it was still good. Seems to be an easy fix to cut the old copper out and rewind with new. copper mag wire. The capacitor may have still worked but I doubt it also. But a new capacitor should work just as good there, same for the points. Then you could leave off the battery and you'd be back to a more normal state. Good work I might add. I ultimately had to do something like what you did on my Dad's old Kohler welding machine years ago. On that one, the coil was potted and I could not find replacements any longer. I never did think about rewinding an old coil core and making my own insulation at the time. I just needed to get it running to weld up some stuff that broke on his tractor. I saw the video you made about that Briggs I/C engine on an old lawn tractor. Its amazing that you revived that engine with no more that you did to it.
Buy you a good pair of side cutters for get the vice grips
Vise Grips are great. But they're not what I use on cotter pins myself.
A 12-point socket might have fit over the sprocket I helped wash clothes with a motor just like this one back in the early forties, no electric we had a two battery powered radio that really works good we made our own soap for the clothes and we had coal oil lights I would love to see you get some of those old engines running
Use the good old heat/quench on those rusted joints. Works great.
That is known as a spring clutch. They are prevalent in nearly all modern photo copiers for drive clucthes. They grab one way and slip the other. A spring can be wound cw or ccw.
For a Briggs & Statton motor made around 1935, unbelievable!!! 😲🇺🇸
That wood be great in a mud boat or good for a back up generator motor
A tip for removing rusty nuts and bolts, always try to tighten first, so if you strip it, you can still have proper grip to unfastened it. (Most of the time it will break it free)
Enjoyed watching, let's do it again real soon.
What did you use the engine on?
You'll have to get the coil rewound and install a modern condenser. There's magneto shops that can direct you to get coil rebuilt
Heat the exhaust then it will come out.. clamp the frame to the table for more leverage on pipe wrench.
Great video!
I was cringing as you wrestled with the exhaust.
I was concerned of a head casting break.
Nice job of getter er done👍
I want to use one of these today!
👍😁 They sure don’t make them like that any more. Enjoyable video.
Why are you not using C clamps to fasten the engine down
I did have the engine clamped down later in the video.
Put an impact gun on it just don't go full blast
This proves age dosent matter when it comes to a engine working or not
What type/viscosity of oil do you use in your red oiler?
It's a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Great penetrant and much more economical than anything in an aerosol can.
It actually sounds pretty good!
Get a wash tub fill it with diesel fuel and cheap transmission fluid and set the whole engine down 👇 in it to soak for a few days.if water 💦 got in the threads and sized it the fluid will get in and eat the rust and corrosion, make life a whole lot easier.
I would put some liquid insulation on those wires to keep them from shorting to the case.
Personally, I would rather have an 87 yr old side valve Briggs engine as it's probably way more reliable than the crap they send out today. I've had more than one Briggs and scrappem where con rod was machined too tight on crank-pin, so instead of fixing it, just leave the bolts loose.
The 'quality control' seems to be non existent
No wonder people are using Chinese motors!
Quality definitely isn't what it used to be. That's why I love these old cast iron Briggs engines. They're just about unkillable.
An old technique that I was told to loosen seized nuts and bolts was to heat them up like you are doing, but when they are still hot, you hold a wax candle on them as hot wax is a lubricant and penetrates better than any oil. I have used this technique for many years and always found it to work better than oil I have used in the past(before I was told of the wax candle plus heat method). Good video hope there’s more to come 👍👍
Hot wax has been debunked. The only reason it seems to work is because you're heating the hardware up. That's the only thing having any effect. Thermal shock is what loosens seized hardware up. The expansion and contraction breaks down the oxidization. Rust is just crusty.
Do not have a 7/8" wrench but the 22MM works every time!
We should all run that good when we're 87 years old.
👍👍☝️😎✌️… it would be good for a small cement mixer.
Just cleaning the engine up will keep you busy
Well done...
You need the magnet in order to generate the spark!
And idk man, I think the first step would have been the power washer. Degrease that relic first
Nice 😊
Restrictor
At 17 min. you are rolling the dice with heating the crap out of it in one spot, that might crack the cast iron.
try to vice grip it sideways then prey side way with scewrer driver or pry bar
Vane governed engine.
87 years old?
Definitely NOT.
Probably no older than late 1950's! Lol
Gud vid 👌
A paint job and an air cleaner.
Dang you want your 20 bucks back??? What a buy!!
Millennial?
Vise Grips, Hammers Cool!
You know I'm not sure but it seems to me that you might want to put a outboard hose and primer bulb between the tank and carb cause she doesn't seem to have any diaphragm in the carb and the tank is lower than the carb .so with the primer bulb you have a check valve cold starting give it a few pumps to get it running and after she starts the check valve would keep fuel from draining back into the tank making it easy to start .looks like only can pull fuel up from the tank from vacuum from the piston that's why it's hard to get started. I'm almost sure the rings are somewhat worn causing it to not have as strong of a vacuum. I'm not sure cause I can't see the engine that well but worth a try
Put a little liquid electric tape on it.
Yes it will run it's a Briggs and Stratton I don't even need to watch the video to know that it will run...how do I know? Ask my 30 year old lawnmower that's been run on kero, methanol, 2 stroke fuel and just about anything else that can burn.. still has the same sparkplug and has had one oil change in its life.. that's how I know 🤣😂🤣 great video mate keep em coming
We used to just cut the head off of a cotter pin with a chisel in those situations and then punch the rest out. On stuck threads heat and beeswax works wonders.
I'll give that a shot next time. Thanks!
I don't know why you but I did the oldest impression at that starter lever is in the wrong position it should be higher it's almost like it's been positioned incorrectly maybe I'm wrong but definitely looks like that
On a stock engine, the kick starter sits almost vertical when at rest. The frame that this engine is bolted to doesn't allow the kick starter to return all the way back to vertical. I'm guessing it may have interfered with the wash tub that would've been above it.
@@motormindset8227 That's a good point it probably would have had to modify the engine for using on a washing machine anyway
Now if you had a small 6 volt generator ( like a bicycle generator) for the power to the coil,,and an exhaust tap to the fuel tank to pressurize the tank it would be self contained again no battery needed!
Put oil on it way before your going to work on it!
I have two "Y" engines. Both don't run. I plan on sorting through them both. Hope the coils are good.
You should have put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinder and let it sit for a while. It works wonders on stuck engines. I have a MAC 120 sitting with the cylinder full of it in the shop.
Should have done some research into what you are doing? Such as fastening the machine to the bench, remove either your head, or at least lose the cap??
3 subs. What are you doing to help the community. Stop being a bitch
well done
Try heating it up( the plug) next time and melt CANDLE WAX ON IT! YOU'LL BE AMAZED !! THE WAX WILL MELT DOWN AROUND THE THREADS! That also works great on PIPE THREADS TOO! JUST GET IT HOT ENUFF TO MELT THE WAX! NOT CHERRY RED!!
You must try another hobby . . . !
Drill the cotter pins out their softer than than the cast.
washingmachne
Boy I'm only seven minutes in and I can already tell that you have no business in a garage much less instructing others. Go back to bagging groceries and leave mechanics to the big boys.
And what are your credentials lmao
well done