When I was a kid I used those old engines to teach myself small engine mechanics. I learned a lot and that process steered me towards the automotive industry as an adult. What I remember most about those engines is getting the bejeezus shocked out of me time and time again! The power of those engines was low...but the ignition voltage was not!! Those old carburetors also had a bad habit of spitting gas into your eyes while attempting to start for the first time...it took me a couple painful experiences to learn where to keep my head when trying to start those old things! "My eyes! My eyes"! LOL
you remind me of me when I was 14 used to love getting old engines running loved the feeling of getting something running that hasn't run in 30/40 years its that buzz of knowing you saved it from scrap and the knowledge you learn from it priceless great channel keep up the great work.
Ahhh this is my favorite kind of find. My house is full of old small engines, I collect them. I got motorcycle engines next to the fridge in the kitchen. Briggs Model 23s (and others) in the livingroom, and a shelf basement full of old stuff. I can't believe I didn't find this channel a long time ago.
@171apples Good! In my kittchen is a Mobylette (Mofa)AV55 and Livingroom a n40t . Also a FOM Mobylette and another n40t in the Cellar . I´m not such a Freak afterall ... :-D
Great video, brought back memories of being stuck on the side of the road checking the points because the car wouldn't start. I was told when I first started driving to always carry a set of points and a screw driver and a ballast resistor...good times.
Never had trouble with my points, 50 years old and still relatively wear-free, granted only 53k on the clock. Four thousand of those miles being mine. The ignition coil was a different story, it had the original Delco-Remy coil. New ACDelco coil on it now and the spark is hot as it should be. As for the rotor, that old bastard looks brand new!
One of the most interesting Channels on all of UA-cam - humour, engineering, diagnosis, reclamation of old kit, facts and figures ... what more could anyone need (other than a BIG mug of coffee)!!!
It’s a rush when you get something running that hasn’t run in years. I guess that why we like fixing stuff. To me it’s s blast. Been doing it all my life. You are very methodical in the way go about repairing things. You are fun to watch. And I pick up some good tips too.
I have been viewing your videos past and new. My first car was a 1964 1/2 Ford Mustang, I purchased in 1964. Yes evern us old men enjoy learning how to fix things. Thanks for the shows
I just recently discovered your series of videos, and as a recently retired guy, I think they’re some of the best on UA-cam. I love hanging out in your shop with you. Luckily for you, I live halfway across the country from you, or I’d be that pesty neighbor that always comes over to “help”. I wouldn’t be able to help myself. Lol Keep ‘em coming my friend!
It's great fun vicariously repairing these with you. (lol) I did this same job at 17, 50yrs ago for my future father in law on his long dead riding lawnmower and got him away from his widowmaker reel mower. Fond memory.. and his was .020 also.
Mustie has ruined my life, I can't get any rest, stay awake most nights watching, can't get away, wife is ready to evict me. He's got to quit making these good videos. I can't go on like this. Help!
I believe the condenser is there to absorb voltage spikes so the points don't burn out and to quickly collapse the secondary coil In the igniter. Love the vids mustie! So satisfying to see this thing tick back to life.
Yes and no. Yes the condenser absorbs the flow and keeps the points from burning up and also collapse the magnetic field. When the points open, they interrupt the flow in the PRIMARY winding, thus collapsing the magnetic field, and a voltage/current is induced in the SECONDARY winding. The ''coil'' device is called an 'ignition armature' (B&S) and with the magnets in the flywheel and movement of the magnets,.... is called a 'magneto'. But you knew this.
@@dayyou This is / was on the B&S boxes and in parts descriptions, however like many I often call it a 'coil'. On ebay you will find it called everything, on some You Tube videos it might be called a 'magneto', but it's only part of the magneto system.
I put on your video and promptly passed out cold in my chair. I left the auto feed on and snoozed for a good 2 hours .... hope you can laugh at this. In all honestly the bits I did see were amazing and thank you for sharing
In 1967 I paid $5 for a very similar 1-1/2 HP Briggs with no reduction gear, just a 1/2 inch dia. shaft. The seller said the broken machine it was on (reel mower?) dated from the early '50's. My local parts supply had a head gasket, points/condenser kit and a needle valve in stock, and after cleanup it started easily and ran well even in winter weather. I put it onto a homemade minibike with tandem (fore and aft) rear drive wheels. I couldn't find a centrifugal clutch for a 1/2" shaft, so I made a drive belt tensioner with pieces of a hockey stick and 2 pucks - Mustie style. The beast wasn't fast, but it sure could pull. For the next 5 winters it hauled a string of toboggans around the neighborhood while I collected old newspapers. Newsprint then sold for $8/ton - worthwhile when delivering prescriptions after school paid 25 cents/day. One summer 10 or so years later I was sweeping out the garage, and a collector walking past offered $50 cash for the engine. It had certainly earned its keep. He restored it beautifully and showed took it for years; it's still running and being shown by his son. The display has what's probably the only photo of the tandem-wheel minibike. Nowadays our town council has banned gasoline-powered cycles of any kind, so it's a bit of history
@@turbo1438 Brakes? With deep snow in the lanes & deerskin mukluks on my feet, I never did get around to installing brakes, LOL. The 2 rear wheels started out as the basis for a track drive. Sad to say, I never did find a way to make a track that didn't slip off or snap after more than about 15 seconds - I didn't really have a lot to work with, tools _or_ materials. But, I discovered that two driven wheels worked a lot better in the snow than one, so that's how it stayed. The train of four toboggans made for a pretty good brake too, especially by the time all the boxes were filled with newspapers. Now I've got tools, a welder and a lathe, but no extra $ for fancy stuff. The vehicle under construction right now is a recumbent trike (the Timberwolf plans from Atomic Zombie). Sure wish I could figure out how to motorize it. I experimented with electrifying a "granny trike" using a treadmill motor. The motor worked great, but my scrounged batteries (lead-acid) weighed so much the tires kept bursting. Bike tires aren't up to the job. "Real" electric bike parts are fabulously expensive here, and it'll take some kind of miracle to give this build electric drive. I'm still trying to figure out a chain-drive differential...
6 років тому+2
Time to ban town council !!! or mabee hang them ! they just want the kids smoking crack and not building noisy minny bikes !!
we pulled a 747 with 4 guy ( we were supposed to be 5 one bailed out at the last minute).. this would mean about 2 HP at max.. So after gear this little thing can definitly pull a 747.. (And I am no strong man)
Good work Mustie 1, just needed a little TLC. The world needs more people like Mustie who can and will things like this instead of just throwing it onto the scrap pile.
Tough to say what year that is Mate, usually the square shrouds have the info stamped in them!! If it has the original flywheel, the date is cast on the back!! I'd say late 50's, with an earlier air cleaner and 70's Tecumseh gas tank!! My guess is an NPR6 or 8!!☺
There's a buzz I get from fixing old broken stuff that's very hard to explain. But it's seriously addictive! I'm a very logical thinker, and just love the puzzle of it all. Great work..! :o)
Awesome old motor it looks like the one I had on my first minibike in the 70s that old motor was strong but I had to fix oil leaks like every weekend haha
No the 70's had a totally different looking engine ..... I had a minibike in 74 and it was a 3.5 HP Briggs that was an aluminum block..... Unless someone put that engine on your MB ????
Many Thanks for this Vid.. and Greetings from Sydney!!! This is why I love youtube... vids like this...Love getting old broken things running again... nothing better in life!! Awesome work getting this long forgotten antique engine up and running!! Ahhhh points ignition... fun for hours lol... BTW.. awesome workshop!!!
Mustie1, 2 part cliff hanger? Very nice little engine. As I remember they had “a lot” of torque. As kids we used a woman’s nail file to scratch up the points and a matchbook cover to initially set the gap. Then a lot of tweaking to get the best blue.
I remember using the striker strip on the paper matchbook to clean the points and then using the cover to set the gap. Did that on my deadbeat brother-in-law's car.
I am a really big fan of Marvel Mystery Oil. I always put a 1/2 cup in my 97 Jeep Cherokee (21 gallon tank) after every refueling. I have never used it in the crankcase or in the automatic transmission, but it's such good oil probably a 1/4 cup of each would do a great job. I'm 65 years old, and in the year 2000 an old mechanic working out of his garage told me about it. He said you put Marvel in with every tank full you'll never have fuel injector problems and will probably save your fuel pump too. ////// Gaping the points, I worked on those old engines that were not so old when I was younger.. They used to say set the points with a match book cover and it will run fine, which comes to my mind as .025. I was also surprised the condenser was still good at that age. You used to be able to buy them as a set from briggs probably still can. We have a lot of the same tools & I enjoyed your video, so thumbs up!
I like your work. I like your style. I like the way you interact with the viewers as if we were there. I see cookies in the shop a lot. Why don't you share some cookies with us? What with the Holidays around the corner and all.
For the oil bath air cleaner, the oil in the reservoir is just below the filter screen. When the unit is serviced, both the reservoir and the screen are washed with solvent to clear all of the captured gunk. The reservoir is dried and replaced and oil refilled to indicated level and the screen is lightly dampened with oil to 'prime' it, then it is replaced. In this particular arrangement air is drawn through the gap between the reservoir and the screen housing, travels down the side of the screen housing, does a U turn and travels up the inside of the screen which is damp with oil. Particulates in the air cling to the oil on the screen and are removed from the air. The engine vibrates when running and this splashes some of the oil from the reservoir into the screen and capillary action distributes the oil throughout the screen. As enough particulates are captured by the oil on the screen, gravity draws the contaminated oil and particulates down the screen and the drip or are shaken into the reservoir, while the capillary action refreshes the oil on the screen to continue the filter process. The screen should definitely be damp with oil before starting engine for maximum filter effectiveness, but after running for 30 seconds or so with the correct reservoir level, the screen should be damp enough to filter moderately contaminated air. If reservoir level is high enough to reach the screen, it will choke off the air flow, if much lower than indicated, the filter will not be flushed and renewed while the motor is running. A high maintenance solution to filtering, but generally more efficient than a paper filter in regard to airflow and filtering efficiency if properly maintained.
I kept saying it was 0.020 but you didn’t act like you heard me! Lol! Glad you got it going. I love working on those older engines. Thanks for the video
I smiled all the way through this video. I love doing this kind of stuff. I have two old B&S motors sitting in the garage awaiting my attention even as I type! Great video Mustie!
Oil bath air cleaners are one of the best there is. The oil does not touch the filter above it. To clean it should be washed in something like paraffin and soaked in heavy oil and allowed to drain. The oil bath is directly in the downwards air flow and any crap just gets caught by the oil. Oil baths on diesels must NEVER be overfilled as an unstopable runaway WILL result. I was in an old army 1119 recovery vehicle for over half an hour going round and round a test track until the oil had stopped slopping into the engine. End of lesson from the stone age. Nice old lump Mustie.
You and me both. My first engine experience was a lonely 3hp briggs and stratton that was lying by itself on the curb. Screwdriver and adjustable wrench brought it back to life. I was in the 5th grade. So about 10yrs old
Capacitor/condenser: The purpose of these in ignition systems is to suppress arcing when the points open. The coil will cause a huge spark to flow between the contacts and this will burn off metal from the contacts. Putting a capacitor across them absorbs most of it without fully charging the capacitor. This leaves it ready to absorb the next pulse and so on. The points tend to oxidize if left unused and the resistance this causes stops the coil from charging. Once cleaned all should be OK except - some capacitors die from non-use and can short out, killing the whole ignition process. Easiest method is to replace them. "Tune-up kits" for cars and trucks used to include new capacitors as a routine with the new point sets. Check the cap when you have one of these engines open just in case.
Have you worked on any points fired Tecumsehs recently using "modern" Tecumseh points replacements say in the last 10 years? I'd been burning through their replacement condensers about once a year. Didn't use to be that way. I went on Ebay and found someone selling a set of NOS points and condensers for the last points fired Tecumseh I tuned up, and it's lasted for the last 3 years so far. So I'm going to venture a guess and say that their new parts are crappola...
@@Believe231 I think most (all?) new point sets are crap. Everything seems to come from China these days. I kept using the original points in my last mower until I moved to a place that didn't require mowing. I can't imagine things have improved.
@@Believe231 chinesium strikes yet again! pretty much any and all capacitors are junk anymore, there was a period of time they held up well, but that's long gone
If you could find the rating on the condenser, just match it with with a capacitor off the shelf in an electronic supply house. 30kV cheap caps are common, just match the pF rating - maybe worth a try.
@@Believe231 That's a big enough problem to have spawned a home industry. There are now kits to convert Tecumsahs to electronic ignition. Whether that is practical in a given situation is the big consideration.
Thank you for sharing. One of the first motors I worked on as a kid was a four stroke gas engine off of a maytag washing machine. I got it running and was delighted. You remind me of me when I was young. My garage is still full of projects so I'm never bored.
The movement of the air pulls the oil up into the steel wool like filter material. When the filter is cleaned you have to wash dirt from top piece. The old oil bath with correct maintenance is a better filter than paper. Just more of a mess.
What does smoking through a bong like? Not a smoker. It takes away more of the psychoactive THC away, good or bad? What about just with tobacco? They found a bong in Russia about 2,400 years old.
That oil needed changed in 1960, so it's only 58 yrs. or so late ;) Nice little engine though, and I predict it will come back fine. Now to find a little something to put it on.
.10 .20.30 magneto points spark plug actually the closer the gap for the magneto without hitting the hotter the spark. don't forget to sand or wire wheel the flywheel magnet of all rust and wipe with a little oil to prevent further rust. rust will cause a weaker spark. also clean rust off the coil ends for the same reason. put copper anti-seize on the flywheel taper and the key way. replace key if there is the slightest ridge on it because that will change the timing and change starting and performance. a spark plug gapped wider than the upper limit will cause misfiring only at high rpm's. best to set to lowest gap and allow for wear.
A friend of mine gave me a couple of those spark checkers from Harbor Freight. One is straight and the other with a 90 degree offset. They are GREAT and I use them all the time. The are great for checking spark from the Coil. Of course, you could still have a bad plug. Just say you use the spark plug checker and it shows good spark from the coil as it is installed in line with the spark plug. Then you can check the plug to verify that is it good. Also, on several occasions I have had spark plugs that would test good using the above procedure and then run for a few minutes and then quit. I guess they had some type of internal short. If this happens to you you should replace the plug and try to run the engine again. I totally agree on any ridges on the fly wheel key. On some engines the slightest ridge on the key will result in a no start situation as the timing is that critical. I.e. the plug will show a spark but the engine will not start. The issue being that the spark arrived at the wrong time. I typically remove all the parts first and clean them, i.e. the flywheel magnet, coil ends and also clean any surfaces where a good ground is needed on the coil assembly. I use my wire wheel to clean all of those parts. I also clean the spark plug top and the contact that comes from the coil to make sure they have a good ground. The main things are, Compression, Spark, Timing and fresh Fuel and good fuel delivery. Of course, good seal on the valve seats and proper adjustment of the valves also come into play. Some engines will run with pretty low compression and others like 2 cycle weed eaters with low compression will be temperamental on hot starts or refuse to start at all on a cold start. I also completely drain the fuel tank and completely clean it and any attached filters and verify that a good supply of fuel is delivered to the carb. Of course, a through cleaning of the carb and internal jets is critical. Performing all of these checks as a minimum will result in a satisfied customer when fixing a lawnmower or other piece of gas powered equipment. 90% or better of the problems encountered with the B&S engines with the aluminum fuel bowl relate to the brass nut on the bottom that meters the fuel to the engine. The typical symptom is the motor will start and run for a few seconds and quit. There s one cross hole just above the hex bolt head and then there is a very tiny metering jet that goes vertically up in the center of the mounting threads. It takes a very fine wire to clean this passage. Care must be taken not to enlarge the size of the hole or the engine will receive too must fuel and not run correctly. After cleaning you should be able to squirt some carb cleaner through the jet and verify that fuel can easily travel through the passage. Even though this is the main issue I always perform off the checks listed above to ensure a proper repair. Just a few things I have learned from working on these small engines. Probably more that you wanted to know but there may be a few hints to help you along the way. John
leave oil for long enough i guess it oxidises and something evaporates, its a lot closer to crude, but dinosaur, nope, its carboniferous vegetation that made the crude
@@jusb1066 You have seen oil in an old engine that was driven by an old lady to go to the store 1 block away. The engine never gets to temp and forms a nasty layer inside the motor from the condensation/oil mix, and never changing the oil for 20 years and 20k miles... And normally, people dont change the oil in their small engines for some reason.
That's not engine oil... that looks like crude right out of the ground. Are you sure this engine didn't come from Project Farm on some "Will it run on maple syrup" video? :)
I owned a NEW Yamaha TX750 (?) twin back in 1973 and the original engine case design had "high-pressure" oil directly behind the points. It was in the shop more than in my possession up until Yamaha released a fix (replacing the top and bottom engine halves. So I can remember what its like to deal with "wet points." Once it was properly fixed it was fun to ride. Funny how things "pop up / memories show up" when reading or listening to videos, etc. Thanks for sharing and of course we are all looking forward to PT 2.
Neat engine! You're like a kid in a Candy shop with this kind of thing! Nice to watch you move smoothly and give us the patter! Look forward to the next part!
I have 1 on a Coleman Garden Plow and it is a 1980 model. But mine is a 3hp and has the gear reduction on it. I am glad I found this video. My air cleaner is different so mine is probably newer. And I have the modern crank assembly.
When you looked at it from the side in the beginning shot it looked not dissimilar to a J.A.P. (J. A. PRESTWICH, Tottenham, London UK) model 2A... The 2A was a small industrial grade petrol engine produced during & immediately after WW2... The one I've got drives a small Lancashire dynamos generator for charging accumulator packs... These accumulator packs were used for starting spitfires & hurricane aircraft during WW2... They make decent chargers for car & truck batteries now... Complete with screw terminals, dial and a manual voltage trimmer... You know the old "hot oil" trick works well on sticky valves & rings... That industrial multimeter you've got...does it have 'relative' function on it...? If so then you can use that to subtract test lead resistances... Just a bit of (probably) pointless & useless information... Take it or leave it... 🙄 With thanks Glenn GLMelectrical Leeds UK
My Dad was always going on about JAP engines, his Dad (my Grandad) used to race JAP engined bikes in the 1920's at Brookline's. Gotta find out more about this.
@@michelebeck4311 I've had quite a few of the Suffolk punch/colt engines... The iron ones... They were always a blueish grey with a red fan housing... The valve arrangement is a bit different though on the 2A... They tend to sound a bit clunky... Its just the valve arrangement...
We may have Big Trees, and Big Mountains out here in the Hinterlands, but always enjoy seeing your neck of the woods, New Hampshire looks beautiful, Happy Holidays.
You and I both. I rebuilt one of these when I was just a young lass and it had no compression to start. Marvel Mystery Oil soak and it too snapped back into compression and registered ~60 PSI. =)
I'm not an engine guy at all! But after spending $350.00 to get my snow blower carb cleaned ( before finding your site ), I'm definitely going to do it myself from now on! THANK YOU!!
That looks like the oil I drained from my Grandfathers car when he didn't change it for over 50, 000 miles. He figured he didn't need to since the engine leaked so much that he was always adding oil. After I changed the oil and filter we found that the engine no longer had any bearings. Not a good day. 😭
Mustie, I am glad that you have that new work garage you now dwell in, but us old shade tree mechanics who work out of our garage miss seeing you in yours.
I have a cement mixer from the 50's and it has that exact same briggs engine all complete and that same gear reduction box on it. so i'd say that engine is from the 1950's? that's a darn good little engine mine starts on the first pull even with the tumbler full of sand and cement in it, I've just been doing regular oil changes and adjust and clean the point and plug over the past 32 years and still runs grate.
@@throttlebottle5906 Yup, your right those little engines were used on water piston pumps also, which reminds me of my friend who's a water well driller and has one in a dark corner of his shop.
until that magical "electronic" coil goes bad, then even the worst set of points and condenser will be your friend, you can fix them short term with a file and smile lol
Good to see you repair something that doesn't work, unlike that generator....my heart was in my mouth when you took the plug out with all that dirt and dust around the plughole waiting there just to fall in.. a candidate for a clean with the air compressor - it makes sense that you use that method to clean old engines like this one using air rather than water because it is going to reduce 'debriss' falling into places you don't want it. Good stuff!
I'm sure far worse has went through that thing over the years, especially with the oil bath filter, they didn't filter very good to start with, but it made a nice pre-cleaner
Hey you must be as old as I am. I recall on a very hot day in the outback of Australia working on one for hours. So hot I couldn't concentrate but 6am the next say it was obvious, Running in 5 mins and pumping water for the cattle.
Mustie I must have watched more than a couple of dozen of your videos now and I always wonder, what do you do with all these old engines when you get them running?
i see that you have some fresh white shop rags, would those be the ones that i ordered for you? if so how do you like them for future ordering info. jim in florida
Thanks for the upload Darren. Slowly but surely I'm trying to learn about ignition points. I'm working on an old 70s Wisconsin Robin 5 horsepower engine on a tiller and I believe that these points are corroded on it. I'm going to try and clean them up and set the point gap. Thank you so much for all you do, you have no idea how much your videos have helped me out. Looking forward to part 2.
Is it possibile that motor was used to run a washing machine back in the thirties or forties? Only reason I'm guessing that is because of the reduction gear box on the side?
Kris Wright, I agree with you on the kick starter but I remember growing up my neighbors washing machine had a motor similar to this one and it was a pull start. I was young back then and I used to think about taking the motor off our old reel type mower and putting it on moms old Kelvenator washing machine...lol
@@jimmoore4838 I recall my father telling me they had one motor that was used for the washing machine, cream separator and butter churn. He said it was on a plank to move it from machine to machine. There was a notch to set the plank into then you raised the other end to put the belt on and the weight of the motor kept the belt tight.
@@tiredoldmechanic1791 i have seen belt drive sump pumps too. And the exhaust was iron piped out the house. All good guesses and probably all of they above...
I love that old Briggs. How fascinating, seeing history, in the form of a gear-reduced 40's engine. I was a little too boisterous when those blue plasma pulses showed so strongly, proving your point-ignition competence! Thanks for the video.
When I was a kid I used those old engines to teach myself small engine mechanics. I learned a lot and that process steered me towards the automotive industry as an adult. What I remember most about those engines is getting the bejeezus shocked out of me time and time again! The power of those engines was low...but the ignition voltage was not!! Those old carburetors also had a bad habit of spitting gas into your eyes while attempting to start for the first time...it took me a couple painful experiences to learn where to keep my head when trying to start those old things! "My eyes! My eyes"! LOL
Lol
same here...took one down to the ground as a kid (someone threw it away) and got it to run for about 2 mins..
you remind me of me when I was 14 used to love getting old engines running loved the feeling of getting something running that hasn't run in 30/40 years its that buzz of knowing you saved it from scrap and the knowledge you learn from it priceless great channel keep up the great work.
Ahhh this is my favorite kind of find. My house is full of old small engines, I collect them. I got motorcycle engines next to the fridge in the kitchen. Briggs Model 23s (and others) in the livingroom, and a shelf basement full of old stuff. I can't believe I didn't find this channel a long time ago.
@171apples Good! In my kittchen is a Mobylette (Mofa)AV55 and Livingroom a n40t . Also a FOM Mobylette and another n40t in the Cellar . I´m not such a Freak afterall ... :-D
I could watch you work with these engine all day. good videos
Great video, brought back memories of being stuck on the side of the road checking the points because the car wouldn't start. I was told when I first started driving to always carry a set of points and a screw driver and a ballast resistor...good times.
Never had trouble with my points, 50 years old and still relatively wear-free, granted only 53k on the clock. Four thousand of those miles being mine. The ignition coil was a different story, it had the original Delco-Remy coil. New ACDelco coil on it now and the spark is hot as it should be. As for the rotor, that old bastard looks brand new!
In my Dad's car tool kit I found a set of points, can't have been any use for at least the 35 years they might have been for an Austin Mini!
One of the most interesting Channels on all of UA-cam - humour, engineering, diagnosis, reclamation of old kit, facts and figures ... what more could anyone need (other than a BIG mug of coffee)!!!
It’s a rush when you get something running that hasn’t run in years. I guess that why we like fixing stuff. To me it’s s blast. Been doing it all my life. You are very methodical in the way go about repairing things. You are fun to watch. And I pick up some good tips too.
I have been viewing your videos past and new. My first car was a 1964 1/2 Ford Mustang, I purchased in 1964. Yes evern us old men enjoy learning how to fix things. Thanks for the shows
Ahh, love seeing those old ones come back to life. pt 2 when the blizzard comes.. Awesome wrenching
This man is a beyond a genius. I have enjoyed hours and hours of his videos. Bless.
I just recently discovered your series of videos, and as a recently retired guy, I think they’re some of the best on UA-cam. I love hanging out in your shop with you.
Luckily for you, I live halfway across the country from you, or I’d be that pesty neighbor that always comes over to “help”. I wouldn’t be able to help myself. Lol
Keep ‘em coming my friend!
It's great fun vicariously repairing these with you. (lol) I did this same job at 17, 50yrs ago for my future father in law on his long dead riding lawnmower and got him away from his widowmaker reel mower. Fond memory.. and his was .020 also.
Here goes 32 minutes of my life! It is physically impossible to see a mustie video and not watch the whole thing lol
Watch it and poop, multitasking ;D
Fact
yea i have to agree.
It's always time well spent. I have watched every minute of every one of his videos. And I don't want any of it back!
Mustie has ruined my life, I can't get any rest, stay awake most nights watching, can't get away, wife is ready to evict me. He's got to quit making these good videos. I can't go on like this. Help!
Great basic learning video for my son.
Don't forget to check the oil in the gear reduction. Even though there is no load on it, if there is no oil it will still cause wear. =)
I was going to say the same thing.😀
I love these kind of videos, my favorite kind of project is to bring something back to life like this. Thanks for sharing!
I believe the condenser is there to absorb voltage spikes so the points don't burn out and to quickly collapse the secondary coil In the igniter. Love the vids mustie! So satisfying to see this thing tick back to life.
Yes, I was thought that the condenser is sort of like a shock absorber for the voltage going to the points.
and the condenser is probably bad, which is why the points were super crusty
Yes and no. Yes the condenser absorbs the flow and keeps the points from burning up and also collapse the magnetic field. When the points open, they interrupt the flow in the PRIMARY winding, thus collapsing the magnetic field, and a voltage/current is induced in the SECONDARY winding.
The ''coil'' device is called an 'ignition armature' (B&S) and with the magnets in the flywheel and movement of the magnets,.... is called a 'magneto'. But you knew this.
@@thebaron44never heard to term ignition armature before. Good to know!
@@dayyou This is / was on the B&S boxes and in parts descriptions, however like many I often call it a 'coil'. On ebay you will find it called everything, on some You Tube videos it might be called a 'magneto', but it's only part of the magneto system.
I put on your video and promptly passed out cold in my chair. I left the auto feed on and snoozed for a good 2 hours .... hope you can laugh at this. In all honestly the bits I did see were amazing and thank you for sharing
In 1967 I paid $5 for a very similar 1-1/2 HP Briggs with no reduction gear, just a 1/2 inch dia. shaft. The seller said the broken machine it was on (reel mower?) dated from the early '50's. My local parts supply had a head gasket, points/condenser kit and a needle valve in stock, and after cleanup it started easily and ran well even in winter weather. I put it onto a homemade minibike with tandem (fore and aft) rear drive wheels. I couldn't find a centrifugal clutch for a 1/2" shaft, so I made a drive belt tensioner with pieces of a hockey stick and 2 pucks - Mustie style. The beast wasn't fast, but it sure could pull. For the next 5 winters it hauled a string of toboggans around the neighborhood while I collected old newspapers. Newsprint then sold for $8/ton - worthwhile when delivering prescriptions after school paid 25 cents/day. One summer 10 or so years later I was sweeping out the garage, and a collector walking past offered $50 cash for the engine. It had certainly earned its keep. He restored it beautifully and showed took it for years; it's still running and being shown by his son. The display has what's probably the only photo of the tandem-wheel minibike. Nowadays our town council has banned gasoline-powered cycles of any kind, so it's a bit of history
Jim Baritone tandem drive wheels?! man that takes me back to my mini bike days. no brakes and no cares LOL
@@turbo1438 Brakes? With deep snow in the lanes & deerskin mukluks on my feet, I never did get around to installing brakes, LOL. The 2 rear wheels started out as the basis for a track drive. Sad to say, I never did find a way to make a track that didn't slip off or snap after more than about 15 seconds - I didn't really have a lot to work with, tools _or_ materials. But, I discovered that two driven wheels worked a lot better in the snow than one, so that's how it stayed. The train of four toboggans made for a pretty good brake too, especially by the time all the boxes were filled with newspapers. Now I've got tools, a welder and a lathe, but no extra $ for fancy stuff. The vehicle under construction right now is a recumbent trike (the Timberwolf plans from Atomic Zombie). Sure wish I could figure out how to motorize it. I experimented with electrifying a "granny trike" using a treadmill motor. The motor worked great, but my scrounged batteries (lead-acid) weighed so much the tires kept bursting. Bike tires aren't up to the job. "Real" electric bike parts are fabulously expensive here, and it'll take some kind of miracle to give this build electric drive. I'm still trying to figure out a chain-drive differential...
Time to ban town council !!! or mabee hang them ! they just want the kids smoking crack and not building noisy minny bikes !!
really enjoy your videos
The man is a combustion wizard. Always a pleasure to watch mustie. Have a good Christmas and holiday season
Right, if I were a child living next to this guy.... he would have to beat me away with a wrench.
If you were really lucky he might beat you away with a wench !!!
My thought precisely
Watching Mustie1 videos, for this obsessed tinkerer, is a great way to start a Saturday morning. Thanks for sharing
You would be surprised the amount of torque that little engine makes after the gear reduction. Nice yard sale score mustie1
@Ashurii .. gear it low enough and it would.... at 0.0001 MPH ... haha
we pulled a 747 with 4 guy ( we were supposed to be 5 one bailed out at the last minute).. this would mean about 2 HP at max.. So after gear this little thing can definitly pull a 747.. (And I am no strong man)
Ashurii I think it’s electric... gas engine for the juice...
Good work Mustie 1, just needed a little TLC. The world needs more people like Mustie who can and will things like this instead of just throwing it onto the scrap pile.
Tough to say what year that is Mate, usually the square shrouds have the info stamped in them!! If it has the original flywheel, the date is cast on the back!! I'd say late 50's, with an earlier air cleaner and 70's Tecumseh gas tank!! My guess is an NPR6 or 8!!☺
Meant to say Kohler tank, definitely not a Briggs!!☺
RK to the rescue!
@@805ROADKING Funny, just wanted to give Musti a link to your channel, but it has already been done ;-) .
@Ashurii If you've got a problem, don't be afraid to tell us, maybe it's worth fixing.
805ROADKING Neither one. That engine is off a Speedex walk-behind tractor. Briggs supplied the engine with no tank at all.
There's a buzz I get from fixing old broken stuff that's very hard to explain. But it's seriously addictive! I'm a very logical thinker, and just love the puzzle of it all. Great work..! :o)
Awesome old motor it looks like the one I had on my first minibike in the 70s that old motor was strong but I had to fix oil leaks like every weekend haha
An old briggs is like an old Harley- if it isn't leaking, its empty.
No the 70's had a totally different looking engine ..... I had a minibike in 74 and it was a 3.5 HP Briggs that was an aluminum block.....
Unless someone put that engine on your MB ????
@@Budro4764 Yeah I put it on there along with probably 4 others throughout the years I wuld pick up the old motors for almost nothing back then lol
Still can pick em up for cheap or nothing but not the old old Briggs....
Many Thanks for this Vid.. and Greetings from Sydney!!! This is why I love youtube... vids like this...Love getting old broken things running again... nothing better in life!! Awesome work getting this long forgotten antique engine up and running!! Ahhhh points ignition... fun for hours lol... BTW.. awesome workshop!!!
Mustie1, 2 part cliff hanger? Very nice little engine. As I remember they had “a lot” of torque.
As kids we used a woman’s nail file to scratch up the points and a matchbook cover to initially set the gap. Then a lot of tweaking to get the best blue.
I remember using the striker strip on the paper matchbook to clean the points and then using the cover to set the gap. Did that on my deadbeat brother-in-law's car.
I am a really big fan of Marvel Mystery Oil. I always put a 1/2 cup in my 97 Jeep Cherokee (21 gallon tank) after every refueling. I have never used it in the crankcase or in the automatic transmission, but it's such good oil probably a 1/4 cup of each would do a great job. I'm 65 years old, and in the year 2000 an old mechanic working out of his garage told me about it. He said you put Marvel in with every tank full you'll never have fuel injector problems and will probably save your fuel pump too. ////// Gaping the points, I worked on those old engines that were not so old when I was younger.. They used to say set the points with a match book cover and it will run fine, which comes to my mind as .025. I was also surprised the condenser was still good at that age. You used to be able to buy them as a set from briggs probably still can. We have a lot of the same tools & I enjoyed your video, so thumbs up!
I like your work. I like your style. I like the way you interact with the viewers as if we were there. I see cookies in the shop a lot. Why don't you share some cookies with us? What with the Holidays around the corner and all.
I must have missed that one. Happy Holidays !
Got me some mince pies !nom nom!!
That is awesome! Great seeing that old engine come back to life.
For the oil bath air cleaner, the oil in the reservoir is just below the filter screen. When the unit is serviced, both the reservoir and the screen are washed with solvent to clear all of the captured gunk. The reservoir is dried and replaced and oil refilled to indicated level and the screen is lightly dampened with oil to 'prime' it, then it is replaced. In this particular arrangement air is drawn through the gap between the reservoir and the screen housing, travels down the side of the screen housing, does a U turn and travels up the inside of the screen which is damp with oil. Particulates in the air cling to the oil on the screen and are removed from the air. The engine vibrates when running and this splashes some of the oil from the reservoir into the screen and capillary action distributes the oil throughout the screen. As enough particulates are captured by the oil on the screen, gravity draws the contaminated oil and particulates down the screen and the drip or are shaken into the reservoir, while the capillary action refreshes the oil on the screen to continue the filter process. The screen should definitely be damp with oil before starting engine for maximum filter effectiveness, but after running for 30 seconds or so with the correct reservoir level, the screen should be damp enough to filter moderately contaminated air.
If reservoir level is high enough to reach the screen, it will choke off the air flow, if much lower than indicated, the filter will not be flushed and renewed while the motor is running. A high maintenance solution to filtering, but generally more efficient than a paper filter in regard to airflow and filtering efficiency if properly maintained.
Mustie, your awesome. I work with small engines too. I learn from you. But I use vinyl gloves and you should too. Keep on keepin on!
Now I have to go to work so I can watch part 2 as soon as it comes out...
I always click the thumbs up before I watch your videos. Haven't been disappointed yet.
Condenser is just an old term for capacitor.
I kept saying it was 0.020 but you didn’t act like you heard me! Lol! Glad you got it going. I love working on those older engines. Thanks for the video
Fantastic start my weekend with mustie1 video thanks buddy
I smiled all the way through this video. I love doing this kind of stuff. I have two old B&S motors sitting in the garage awaiting my attention even as I type! Great video Mustie!
I was all excited to hear
"shes a runner", and then you put up that waterfall segment - now ive got to pee... looking forward to pt2
Enjoyed it. Me and my Dad spent a lot of Saturday nights tinkerin with small engines. Would like to have some of them back now. Fun video!
Oil bath air cleaners are one of the best there is. The oil does not touch the filter above it. To clean it should be washed in something like paraffin and soaked in heavy oil and allowed to drain. The oil bath is directly in the downwards air flow and any crap just gets caught by the oil. Oil baths on diesels must NEVER be overfilled as an unstopable runaway WILL result. I was in an old army 1119 recovery vehicle for over half an hour going round and round a test track until the oil had stopped slopping into the engine. End of lesson from the stone age. Nice old lump Mustie.
lmao
it is nice to someone working in normal time instead of speed time!
Oh She'll Run...
Oh hai. Welcome!
Thank you Briggs&Stratton and Tecumseh for teaching me about engines as a pre-teen in the early 70's. Cheers!
You and me both. My first engine experience was a lonely 3hp briggs and stratton that was lying by itself on the curb. Screwdriver and adjustable wrench brought it back to life. I was in the 5th grade. So about 10yrs old
Capacitor/condenser: The purpose of these in ignition systems is to suppress arcing when the points open. The coil will cause a huge spark to flow between the contacts and this will burn off metal from the contacts. Putting a capacitor across them absorbs most of it without fully charging the capacitor. This leaves it ready to absorb the next pulse and so on.
The points tend to oxidize if left unused and the resistance this causes stops the coil from charging. Once cleaned all should be OK except - some capacitors die from non-use and can short out, killing the whole ignition process. Easiest method is to replace them. "Tune-up kits" for cars and trucks used to include new capacitors as a routine with the new point sets.
Check the cap when you have one of these engines open just in case.
Have you worked on any points fired Tecumsehs recently using "modern" Tecumseh points replacements say in the last 10 years? I'd been burning through their replacement condensers about once a year. Didn't use to be that way. I went on Ebay and found someone selling a set of NOS points and condensers for the last points fired Tecumseh I tuned up, and it's lasted for the last 3 years so far. So I'm going to venture a guess and say that their new parts are crappola...
@@Believe231 I think most (all?) new point sets are crap. Everything seems to come from China these days. I kept using the original points in my last mower until I moved to a place that didn't require mowing. I can't imagine things have improved.
@@Believe231 chinesium strikes yet again! pretty much any and all capacitors are junk anymore, there was a period of time they held up well, but that's long gone
If you could find the rating on the condenser, just match it with with a capacitor off the shelf in an electronic supply house. 30kV cheap caps are common, just match the pF rating - maybe worth a try.
@@Believe231 That's a big enough problem to have spawned a home industry. There are now kits to convert Tecumsahs to electronic ignition. Whether that is practical in a given situation is the big consideration.
Thank you for sharing. One of the first motors I worked on as a kid was a four stroke gas engine off of a maytag washing machine. I got it running and was delighted. You remind me of me when I was young. My garage is still full of projects so I'm never bored.
You really have upped your game with that sonic cleaner at the end there, its huge! I mean it has a falls in it now!
I thought that was the new parts washer.
yep, but I think he has the temperature setting a little too low.
@AshuriiChicago received the nickname "Windy City" for politics, not weather.
@Ashurii .. I think 200 might be too high. With the size of that sonic cleaner, 200 could cause global warming.
More Power!
I love how happy you get when they fire up. Another engine saved from some old basement.
Oil bath air cleaner works like a bong, cools the air and removes debris.
Yes! exactly like a bong LOL
The movement of the air pulls the oil up into the steel wool like filter material. When the filter is cleaned you have to wash dirt from top piece. The old oil bath with correct maintenance is a better filter than paper. Just more of a mess.
need a little boones farms and crushed ice.
What does smoking through a bong like? Not a smoker. It takes away more of the psychoactive THC away, good or bad? What about just with tobacco? They found a bong in Russia about 2,400 years old.
It's so awesome seeing these old engines come back to life
Hey Mustie1, I have a hoard of these old engines, I should spend some time organizing them....
Me too have a shitload of cast iron Briggs some are kick start.
I was wrong it was 60 this is the first time I'm watching this episode thanks for having me you do a good job
That oil needed changed in 1960, so it's only 58 yrs. or so late ;) Nice little engine though, and I predict it will come back fine. Now to find a little something to put it on.
talk about sludge...
stuff looked more like crude oil than anything else.
Will it run? I can't stop watching once I start lol. Love your way of explaining the process. Thanks Mustie!
.10 .20.30 magneto points spark plug actually the closer the gap for the magneto without hitting the hotter the spark. don't forget to sand or wire wheel the flywheel magnet of all rust and wipe with a little oil to prevent further rust. rust will cause a weaker spark. also clean rust off the coil ends for the same reason. put copper anti-seize on the flywheel taper and the key way. replace key if there is the slightest ridge on it because that will change the timing and change starting and performance. a spark plug gapped wider than the upper limit will cause misfiring only at high rpm's. best to set to lowest gap and allow for wear.
A friend of mine gave me a couple of those spark checkers from Harbor Freight. One is straight and the other with a 90 degree offset. They are GREAT and I use them all the time. The are great for checking spark from the Coil. Of course, you could still have a bad plug. Just say you use the spark plug checker and it shows good spark from the coil as it is installed in line with the spark plug. Then you can check the plug to verify that is it good. Also, on several occasions I have had spark plugs that would test good using the above procedure and then run for a few minutes and then quit. I guess they had some type of internal short. If this happens to you you should replace the plug and try to run the engine again.
I totally agree on any ridges on the fly wheel key. On some engines the slightest ridge on the key will result in a no start situation as the timing is that critical. I.e. the plug will show a spark but the engine will not start. The issue being that the spark arrived at the wrong time. I typically remove all the parts first and clean them, i.e. the flywheel magnet, coil ends and also clean any surfaces where a good ground is needed on the coil assembly. I use my wire wheel to clean all of those parts. I also clean the spark plug top and the contact that comes from the coil to make sure they have a good ground.
The main things are, Compression, Spark, Timing and fresh Fuel and good fuel delivery. Of course, good seal on the valve seats and proper adjustment of the valves also come into play. Some engines will run with pretty low compression and others like 2 cycle weed eaters with low compression will be temperamental on hot starts or refuse to start at all on a cold start.
I also completely drain the fuel tank and completely clean it and any attached filters and verify that a good supply of fuel is delivered to the carb. Of course, a through cleaning of the carb and internal jets is critical.
Performing all of these checks as a minimum will result in a satisfied customer when fixing a lawnmower or other piece of gas powered equipment.
90% or better of the problems encountered with the B&S engines with the aluminum fuel bowl relate to the brass nut on the bottom that meters the fuel to the engine. The typical symptom is the motor will start and run for a few seconds and quit. There s one cross hole just above the hex bolt head and then there is a very tiny metering jet that goes vertically up in the center of the mounting threads. It takes a very fine wire to clean this passage. Care must be taken not to enlarge the size of the hole or the engine will receive too must fuel and not run correctly. After cleaning you should be able to squirt some carb cleaner through the jet and verify that fuel can easily travel through the passage. Even though this is the main issue I always perform off the checks listed above to ensure a proper repair.
Just a few things I have learned from working on these small engines. Probably more that you wanted to know but there may be a few hints to help you along the way.
John
yea lord yea.
Searching everywhere for part two, then just realized it was posted today lol. Great work love your videos.
That oil looks like they were trying to turn it back into a dinosaur.
leave oil for long enough i guess it oxidises and something evaporates, its a lot closer to crude, but dinosaur, nope, its carboniferous vegetation that made the crude
Lighten up Francis, it was a joke.
@@jusb1066 You have seen oil in an old engine that was driven by an old lady to go to the store 1 block away. The engine never gets to temp and forms a nasty layer inside the motor from the condensation/oil mix, and never changing the oil for 20 years and 20k miles... And normally, people dont change the oil in their small engines for some reason.
@@markusgarvey yes ive seen it so thick it doesnt come out!
Esso (Exxon Mobil), “Put a tiger in your tank.” Would have been more accurate with, “Put a dinosaur in your tank.”
Awesome! You can bring old stuff back to life. I want to be like you!
That's not engine oil... that looks like crude right out of the ground. Are you sure this engine didn't come from Project Farm on some "Will it run on maple syrup" video? :)
I've seen molasses that was thinner then that oil!
Steve Brecht Haha haha😀😀😀😀😀
Haha you know he's going to see that comment too. Two of the channels that make me love youtube so much.
only way to tell is to smell it for that distinctive used burnt oil smell.
My guess is gear lube..
I owned a NEW Yamaha TX750 (?) twin back in 1973 and the original engine case design had "high-pressure" oil directly behind the points. It was in the shop more than in my possession up until Yamaha released a fix (replacing the top and bottom engine halves. So I can remember what its like to deal with "wet points." Once it was properly fixed it was fun to ride. Funny how things "pop up / memories show up" when reading or listening to videos, etc. Thanks for sharing and of course we are all looking forward to PT 2.
Are you sure it was not a 3 Cylinder engine ?
The boys over at Carsandcameras like an old Briggs
johns kinda on the fence about them
Neat engine! You're like a kid in a Candy shop with this kind of thing! Nice to watch you move smoothly and give us the patter! Look forward to the next part!
Go ahead and warm up the ultrasonic cleaner. 🙂
Darren, you're a miracle worker with engines. Unbelievable man!
You know what has an old motor that would be cool to see be worked on? One of those old Honda ct70 mr mustie has in the back barn!
this winter
So cool can’t wait! There is a huge following for the Honda’s ct70 ct90. Ct70 and 90 would give you tons of hits
MiniBike Mike's Honda's and Things I love them too! I’ve got a express, gyro,cb125s, and a 71 ct90. My wife blames mustie for my collection/hobby. Ha!
In the UK the C90 was THE bike to have as a kid riding in the woods lol. I had several 😂
@@ollylewinI got several free, including an absolute minter, all were ridden to death, wish I kept them now!
i dont know bout you people but this is my best 30 minutes of my life i spent. im 22 y/o but i love old machines
Will it run? Of course it’ll run! It’s on a mustie1 video! Question should be ............ what kinda bike will it propel?
I'm not sure how I found your channel. But Man, I can watch you work for hours! Great Content! SUBSCRIBED!
thanks adam
Welcome back!!!!!!
I have 1 on a Coleman Garden Plow and it is a 1980 model. But mine is a 3hp and has the gear reduction on it. I am glad I found this video. My air cleaner is different so mine is probably newer. And I have the modern crank assembly.
When you looked at it from the side in the beginning shot it looked not dissimilar to a J.A.P. (J. A. PRESTWICH, Tottenham, London UK) model 2A...
The 2A was a small industrial grade petrol engine produced during & immediately after WW2...
The one I've got drives a small Lancashire dynamos generator for charging accumulator packs...
These accumulator packs were used for starting spitfires & hurricane aircraft during WW2...
They make decent chargers for car & truck batteries now...
Complete with screw terminals, dial and a manual voltage trimmer...
You know the old "hot oil" trick works well on sticky valves & rings...
That industrial multimeter you've got...does it have 'relative' function on it...?
If so then you can use that to subtract test lead resistances...
Just a bit of (probably) pointless & useless information...
Take it or leave it... 🙄
With thanks
Glenn
GLMelectrical
Leeds UK
My Dad was always going on about JAP engines, his Dad (my Grandad) used to race JAP engined bikes in the 1920's at Brookline's. Gotta find out more about this.
Or Suffolk. I have both.
@@michelebeck4311
I've had quite a few of the Suffolk punch/colt engines...
The iron ones...
They were always a blueish grey with a red fan housing...
The valve arrangement is a bit different though on the 2A...
They tend to sound a bit clunky...
Its just the valve arrangement...
@@sonofedmund5004
Didn't the early Morgan's feature a J.A.P Vee twin...?
@@glennmoreland6457 my 3 punch engines, the red paint has faded to orange lol
We may have Big Trees, and Big Mountains out here in the Hinterlands, but always enjoy seeing your neck of the woods, New Hampshire looks beautiful, Happy Holidays.
I yelled out 60 PSI. Where's my prize 🏆
You and I both. I rebuilt one of these when I was just a young lass and it had no compression to start. Marvel Mystery Oil soak and it too snapped back into compression and registered ~60 PSI. =)
Same here!! LOL
Me too.
I'm not an engine guy at all! But after spending $350.00 to get my snow blower carb cleaned ( before finding your site ), I'm definitely going to do it myself from now on! THANK YOU!!
48hrs?!?!?!?!?!? we are all gonna dieeee!!!! :D Thanks dude. giving BS a new life... only Mustie can do that!
I know, i was like sh***************ttt!!!!
Can't ignore a "will it Run" video! Keep em coming Mustie1 Great job. Pet that super cute dog of yours for me too
That looks like the oil I drained from my Grandfathers car when he didn't change it for over 50, 000 miles. He figured he didn't need to since the engine leaked so much that he was always adding oil. After I changed the oil and filter we found that the engine no longer had any bearings. Not a good day. 😭
Mustie, I am glad that you have that new work garage you now dwell in, but us old shade tree mechanics who work out of our garage miss seeing you in yours.
As Mr. Rogers sang... “Won’t you please, won’t you please, please won’t you be my neighbor?”
Hello neighbor!☺
Love that popping sound when she fires. Smells like success.
I have a cement mixer from the 50's and it has that exact same briggs engine all complete and that same gear reduction box on it. so i'd say that engine is from the 1950's? that's a darn good little engine mine starts on the first pull even with the tumbler full of sand and cement in it, I've just been doing regular oil changes and adjust and clean the point and plug over the past 32 years and still runs grate.
I knew I seen that motor on something similar before, also on old piston well water pumps
@@throttlebottle5906 Yup, your right those little engines were used on water piston pumps also, which reminds me of my friend who's a water well driller and has one in a dark corner of his shop.
Next time you goto adjust points by yourself electronic ignition coil. Never worry bout points again. 25 on eBay
until that magical "electronic" coil goes bad, then even the worst set of points and condenser will be your friend, you can fix them short term with a file and smile lol
What model is your engine on the cement mixer. I just recently aquired a 41' IR6 myself.
reminds me of those go-cart engines we use to love to get our hands on back in the late `50s early `60s.
I friggin hate those tapered cranks .
Good to see you repair something that doesn't work, unlike that generator....my heart was in my mouth when you took the plug out with all that dirt and dust around the plughole waiting there just to fall in.. a candidate for a clean with the air compressor - it makes sense that you use that method to clean old engines like this one using air rather than water because it is going to reduce 'debriss' falling into places you don't want it. Good stuff!
I'm sure far worse has went through that thing over the years, especially with the oil bath filter, they didn't filter very good to start with, but it made a nice pre-cleaner
Those old point pushrods are wooden and when old , shrunken or worn will allow oil to pass by and foul the points.
Hey you must be as old as I am. I recall on a very hot day in the outback of Australia working on one for hours. So hot I couldn't concentrate but 6am the next say it was obvious, Running in 5 mins and pumping water for the cattle.
Your victory giggle makes me smile or laugh aloud every time. Keep on keepin on!
Mustie I must have watched more than a couple of dozen of your videos now and I always wonder, what do you do with all these old engines when you get them running?
Stuart Hatto he makes projects out of them like gas powered pedal bikes
He has a hoard out back...lol
@@1234mattyman So, a "gas powered" pedal bike, in fact, needs no pedals.
Look to a career in politics...
You'll go far!
Great find, I love old Briggs engines especially the cast iron ones! Can't wait for part 2!
i see that you have some fresh white shop rags, would those be the ones that i ordered for you? if so how do you like them for future ordering info. jim in florida
why yes they are, and brian got a bunch too from it, thanks again jim
Thanks for the upload Darren. Slowly but surely I'm trying to learn about ignition points. I'm working on an old 70s Wisconsin Robin 5 horsepower engine on a tiller and I believe that these points are corroded on it. I'm going to try and clean them up and set the point gap. Thank you so much for all you do, you have no idea how much your videos have helped me out. Looking forward to part 2.
Is it possibile that motor was used to run a washing machine back in the thirties or forties? Only reason I'm guessing that is because of the reduction gear box on the side?
Jim Moore Washing machine motors had a kick start.
@@kriswright1022 Not all of them.
Kris Wright, I agree with you on the kick starter but I remember growing up my neighbors washing machine had a motor similar to this one and it was a pull start. I was young back then and I used to think about taking the motor off our old reel type mower and putting it on moms old Kelvenator washing machine...lol
@@jimmoore4838 I recall my father telling me they had one motor that was used for the washing machine, cream separator and butter churn. He said it was on a plank to move it from machine to machine. There was a notch to set the plank into then you raised the other end to put the belt on and the weight of the motor kept the belt tight.
@@tiredoldmechanic1791 i have seen belt drive sump pumps too. And the exhaust was iron piped out the house. All good guesses and probably all of they above...
Will it run? Of course it will when your on the job. I've been binge watching your videos for the last 2 weeks. Very cool channel
Been waiting
sounds sad ,but hey
A complete course on small engine repair in 82 minutes. Awesome stuff.
Everyone likes a tight 25
I love that old Briggs. How fascinating, seeing history, in the form of a gear-reduced 40's engine. I was a little too boisterous when those blue plasma pulses showed so strongly, proving your point-ignition competence! Thanks for the video.
It's maple syrup
Naaa... Nobody would part with that much maple syrup for $5.
@@rickbanks7681 ha right
Absolutely awesome buddy. Stay warm up there. Love these vids. Thank you for your time imparting this knowledge to us.