775,000 km on my Patrol TB45, both engine and auto are original and unopened, but well maintained. She still does not use any oil, I use 10/40 Penrite. Different era though, pushrods, iron block and only 200HP from 4.5 liters
Couldn't agree more! As an ex LandCruiser owner and ex Toyota mechanic, I've been saying this for years. Toyota is no longer cracked up to what it used to be and yet people keep shelling out cash for them. I was so disappointed in my 80 series I decided to jump camp to Nissan and haven't looked back. I'm on my second Patrol, this time a Y62, and am totally wrapped in the car. AND I didn't pay anywhere near what a 300 series cost.
15k oil changes and no break in oil change is nuts. I ignored and did a break in oil change and following the 200 series schedule of 7500km oil changes.
0W-20 or 0W-30 oil is specified on most new engines because it helps reduce fuel consumption for determining the emissions "number". Another trick some pull is to reduce oil pressure too low in the range where the emissions/economy test is done. The solution is to flash the ECU to eliminate the low oil pressure problem in those vehicles that do this, and to use 5W-30 or 10W-30/40 oil instead of 0W.
Like the point of view, think the hot V design may also hinder reliability. This however is purely my opinion, frequent oil changes of a good quality oil go a long way to making sure an engine survives, design deficiencies aside.
Hi Pete, really enjoy your videos I learn a lot from them, I have been thinking this a while now, that manufacturers constantly chasing fuel economy the oil is getting thinner and thinner to a failure , look at the sae oil chart and the weight and temperatures don’t add up to a hot summer day towing a heavy load!
Land Rover have had issues with spun bearings in many of their Ford diesel engines (seems to be less of an issue in other vehicles, despite the same engine). I’m guessing you can put that down to the harder loads people are putting on their Discovery 3 than say a Jaguar XF. LR recommend 5w30 but I know many people go to a 5w40, your explanation is by the far the best I’ve ever seen for why the thicker oil would be advantageous and how the spun bearings become a thing in the first place.
The most important thing you stated was quality regular maintenance… The oils specified are an interesting grade. Toyota have also changed the viscosity ratings recently.
I remember the 1HD-T engine issues in the 90s. I used to replace bigend barings every second day when I was an apprentice. Toyota warranted pretty much all of them. Even a few 80 series over 200k. I understand the car in question was modified but a one off good will gesture from Toyota would have been nice. They ain't cheap cars. Unfortunately with super tight emissions regs engines are becoming fragile. No more large capacity, lazy towing engines.
Yep tight emissions is the killer for carmakers now and why you're a mug wanting to chase more performance out of these modern light weight open deck engines whacked together with torque to yield bolts and not meant to come apart. They're now 10yr/200k throwaway appliances providing carmakers like Mitsubishi can guarantee the servicing. That hasn't sunk in for many carbuyers but biz understands it well and gets the best front end out of them in warranty before flipping them.
Interesting to see the size difference between the 5L and new 300 series engine. Massive difference considering how much (or little) the 5L engines produce in comparison. Definitely keep up with the services on the 300!
54 years ago, a bloke talked me into buying a drum of coloidal graphite, said it was a great additive to put in your sump oil, oil has obviously changed since those days, however it still sits in the shed, last used in a slant 6 up until the late 70s. Wonder what if any, advantage it would be as an additive in todays oil, or would it be a liability.
Going 2 be very interesting as my best mate Purchased a Brand New $145 k 3.3ltr twin turbo diesel a Year ago . I personally HATE DIESEL ENGINES. Waiting 4 the Nissan Twin Turbo Petrol 4wd . More HP & TQ . Going 2 put it on the Dyno & Tweak the ECU .
These engines already using engine oil. Toyota has a really poor history of getting new engines right. Their reputation as being reliable is largely undeserved tbh.
Similar problems to the Lion engine in Land Rovers. Skinny bearings and thin oil recommendations as well as lengthy service intervals. End result bearing and crank failures. Always thought Land Rover should copy Toyota but seems Toyota are coping Land Rover here 😊
I agree, my 2009 tdv6 rangie has 400,000km on it use 5w40 and change the oil below 10,000km. Wouldn’t buy a new one or a new land cruiser waste of money
5W/40 is the sweet spot. It's still a Quad Cam Roller Rocker design so I wouldn't go any higher than 5 or 10 with the Winter Rating. Oil Change @ 5,000KM
Very interesting Peter.Would be very interested in your opinion on the old oil supplement ,Moreys.I am on a farm and have had and been servicing a Miriad of various machines from 80 year old vintage dozers to the latest vehicles and various machines and can honestly say I have not seen bearing failure to the point of losing oil pressure .I have used this product in all different applications over the last 45 years mainly as an added insurance.I have what some people say is a grenade,being the 3 litre Nissan that is our main farm vehicle with 6500 hrs original.In fairness we are very pedantic with hygiene and oil change intervals.
I'm concerned about these light weight oils in Australia across the board. I have a relatively new 2024 Hilux, interestingly Toyota have themselves switched it from 0W-20 to 0W-30, do you have a different oil recommendation for it in Australia? Cheers Drew
Yep, people just cant understand get more frequent oil changes... "but the manufacturer said 15,000kms" nope half that if you want to keep the car for a long time.. And they are only using ridiculously thin oil so they pass emissions.. i have seen so many manufacturers engines literally evaporating the oil from it being to thin.. That is scary to see a engine with 3 times the power factory, with bearings half the size... i have 2 compound turboed (series 1 offset cam with rocker arms) 2L 2.4 diesels with over 400,xxxkms on them
Well Toyota are using the extended service interval as a selling point. Dont sell it like that if it cant make the distance. Those V6 engine may well share a bigend journal so I would expect the bearing size to be significantly smaller if thats the case. Same with V8 engines. Toyota are pretty dogshit making diesel engines when it comes right down to it. FTE was the only decent one so far without a miriad of problems.
Huge cash outlay, a fair few owners will want to tour Australia with a van in tow or overland (4wd) in seriously challenging conditions, and why wouldn’t you…dad always told me - son, never buy the first model of any vehicle. Not great….hello Toyota warranty claims dept😳
Came to say the same as a few others. Already a 300 series engine failed at 27,000 kms - Clement’s family from WA, 4000 kms from home in the eastern states towing a big caravan. Bought from Toyota Rockingham (same place I bought my new Prado 150 a short while back). Toyota have refused warranty. Purportedly because of modifications, including chopped & extended, GVM upgrade, canopy on tray on the back, boat on the roof, engines been “tuned” & an oil catch can added. Toyota are probably rightly saying, modified, overloaded, therefore warranty voided. Probably about time the aftermarket industry had the warrant issues hand balled down the line to them. Sad for the owners, because you pay the “Toyota Tax” (over priced vehicles) to have access to a Aussie wife dealer network, and availability of parts, service & warranty. Since Toyota aren’t playing that game any more of being “THE Aussie big lap towing touring 4WD of choice” - then there’s probably no point paying the “Toyota Tax” any more. Might just as well buy an over priced unreliable Yank Tank - with no dealer network worth speaking of and no parts available in Oz & take your luck, because Toyota no longer holds the badge. They have quite literally “sh!t in their own nest”.
true nuff, I read that too, lesson, leave your vehicle stock standard although i worry about my Disco, SDV6 256 HP, 600 NM , it is the best driving car out there, even better than the mercs I had AND it hangs onto 8th gear forever, if you let it, price of Cruisers is plain ludicrous
In my book you pay your fare and you take the ride. If you choose to mod your vehicle and thereby void the manufacturer's warranty you probably can't expect the aftermarket mob to come.to your rescue as they're not warranting anything other than their piece eg the bullbar you bought or the side rails or the bigger fuel tank etc if any of that has.am adverse effect on your vehicle's performance well that's on you to be fair!
Except why would any manufacturer want to warranty an inappropriately used vehicle at 2T over gross combined mass or 30+% over stipulated limits? Toyota tax is not an insurance policy for stupid use 🤷♂️
Another issue with the thin oils is viscosity dilution due to fuel wash/bypass at low revs (especially DI petrol engines). You end up using fuel to lube your engine! Once out of warranty, just go up one grade...say, 0W-20 to 10W-30 etc. Mathematically you will use more fuel, but in the real world , yeahnah, you won't notice it. If towing heavy in hot conditions, prob even look at a 10W-40 synthetic to get you safely there and back?
The 2012 onwards Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 Diesel have the same issue, too much power and torque and paper thin bearings. It's not a matter of if they fail, it is when they fails.
Too much common sense in one place, the secret of any good engine is the bottom end then it doesnt matter whatyou put on top provided engine oil quality ,grade and quantity is ok ,thanks for a greatshow.
Do you know a good D4D supply and fit in Brisbane? Would you suggest a rebuild or replace 15 yr old D4D with 340,000 km on it? I'd love to keep my old vehicle but the donk needs freshening up
I have a Subaru as you may know they have very narrow rod bearings I towed a double axle car trailer about a 1000km no issues the next day when I went to start the car started without oil pressure immediately turned off the engine checked the oil very low topped it up still drive this car now. Lesson learnt towing heavy things over long distances can cause oil consumption always listen for oil pressure on startup.
The 300 has been out for a few years now & there are vehicles with well over 100KM. As a 300 owner & member of most of the 300 forums I really haven't heard of many catastrophic engine failures. Lots of engine faults visit dealers warnings or limp modes but not people looking at an oily patch on the road with lumps of metal in. The main issues seem to be related to the 7th injector for DPF burns. Your far more likely to be stopped by a computer / ecu problem than an engine failure.
Great video Peter, thoughts on the 3.4 ltr petrol engines massive recall 109 000 plus engines ? Apparently the number 1 piston main bearing is failing.
That's disgusting 🤮. Pumping all that extra load (turbo) through a big end bearing that has 2/3 of surface area of the old 5LE hilux engine!? 🙄 Compression rings & scrapper are probably 2/3 of the size too!!! Do these manufacturers expect the local snake 🐍 oil salesman to save their bacon with some synthetic formulations? FFS! 🤬 & you wonder why I refuse to drive a car built beyond 2005. 🙄
Does the 300 series have sputtered bearings? They have high load carrying capability. The older, larger ones look like a tri-metal bearing (silver in colour).
Hello. Thank you for taking the time to make and show your vids. Much appreciated. Im in WA. I have a 2010 VDJ79, 275km. Talking oils, could you pls advice viscosity and recommended brand that I should use, if you do not mind. Also looking at replacing the oil pick up after your very informative vid regarding the plastic units that Toyota use. I guess thats an expensive job, hey? Cheers and thank you. Wade
Very interesting video. May i ask you, as an expert, a question ? I have a Landcruiser 90, 1KZ-TE engine. After the engine starts it takes 2 to 3 seconds for the oil pressure to build up. Should i be worried ?
I’ve got a client that has done 170k with his without an issue, I don’t service this car (dealer does) but I’m impressed by the fact he hasn’t had a problem with it yet!
my new 2009 Landcruiser vd79 used 1ltr of oil every 800km for the first 15k then i called toyota & asked them would they allow me to change to Shell Rimula X & they did & it used 100ml in 5000k after the oil change. the local toyota dealer started putting Rimula X in all the ones that had oil usage problems.
Seems to me most mechanics are recommending for Aussie conditions at least a small step up to 5W-30 on these 300s and if doing plenty of towing or hard off road Yakka then a further step up to 10W-40 seems the go!
Thanks for the advice. Obviously there’s a few factors but what would be your recommended oil in these and the 200’s. You’ve put a picture of 0w-20 would you use that?
As they absolutely should have done. You can’t make such modifications to your vehicle and expect to retain your factory warranty. Mechanic by trade, 25+ years experience.
Toyota. Under speccing their big ends since the early L diesels 👌 They learn, they increase the size in the engine range and then they do it again in the next new engines 🤣 Slow learners!
Great Video. So a slightly thicker than standard oil is good when the engine is working hard. What about at cold start, will the thicker oil fail to properly get in between parts with very small clearances?
Interesting insights, is this in response to that family that had their 300 engine shit itself recently. They’ve had the warranty denied so you might have to look after them.
Everything I own runs John Deere 15/40 plus 50 ii oil You can keep your 0w/30 shit haha I did the change years and years ago, being a diesel mechanic It just didn’t sit right seeing a diesel run such thin oil I also don’t believe the latest tier of 15w/40 range of oils holds viscosity like it used to to That’s why I run JD oil, still has nice thickness to the oil We run mobil 15/40 at work and side by side you can literally feel the difference even though on paper there 15/40 Yes a little higher fuel consumption but fuel is cheaper then engines in 27,000k’s
775,000 km on my Patrol TB45, both engine and auto are original and unopened, but well maintained. She still does not use any oil, I use 10/40 Penrite. Different era though, pushrods, iron block and only 200HP from 4.5 liters
Mate, your videos (and knowledge) are second to none, straight to the point no yapping, and comparisons to other vehicles. Excellent videos.
Is that the runescape gnome
All diesels 5000km oil changes. Oil is cheap, and engines are not
Couldn't agree more! As an ex LandCruiser owner and ex Toyota mechanic, I've been saying this for years. Toyota is no longer cracked up to what it used to be and yet people keep shelling out cash for them. I was so disappointed in my 80 series I decided to jump camp to Nissan and haven't looked back. I'm on my second Patrol, this time a Y62, and am totally wrapped in the car. AND I didn't pay anywhere near what a 300 series cost.
the vk56 in the y62 is a great engine, have seen one in the states with 1.15 million ks (700something miles) on the clock
An no dpf! Y62 owner here😂
dissapointed in. 80 series? cant be possible must of been previous owner.. if diesel version they are bulletproof for 1 mill km
15k oil changes and no break in oil change is nuts. I ignored and did a break in oil change and following the 200 series schedule of 7500km oil changes.
Toyota Should have stuck to 4.2 litre straight 6
Couldn't agree with you more 💯✔️. Love that motor in my 80 series
wouldn't meet emission standards, in any country, except probably Somalia....
Stroked with commonrail, would be amazing
They still make and fit them , they don’t meet emissions standards for Australia
And not be able to sell it anywhere due to emission requirements? Good thing you’re not working for Toyota
0W-20 or 0W-30 oil is specified on most new engines because it helps reduce fuel consumption for determining the emissions "number". Another trick some pull is to reduce oil pressure too low in the range where the emissions/economy test is done. The solution is to flash the ECU to eliminate the low oil pressure problem in those vehicles that do this, and to use 5W-30 or 10W-30/40 oil instead of 0W.
And if you have an engine issue and they find 5W-30 or 10W-30/40 oil in it?
0W-20 oil is ridiculous for the northern Australian climate, especially towing big loads. Toyota is all about fuel economy now, not reliability.
Im using Castrol RXSuper 15W 40 in my 2014 200 series with 197000 km, runs smooth as silk and not noisy at all. Oil changes at 5000 km with filter.
Theres something amazing about watching and learning from a professional that’s enthusiastic, great stuff mate.
My work mate had his rear main seal go twice on his two year old 300 series cruiser lucky it's under warranty
Like the point of view, think the hot V design may also hinder reliability. This however is purely my opinion, frequent oil changes of a good quality oil go a long way to making sure an engine survives, design deficiencies aside.
Penrith 4w 40 not 5w30 is what most disco and range rover drivers changed to
Hi Pete, really enjoy your videos I learn a lot from them, I have been thinking this a while now, that manufacturers constantly chasing fuel economy the oil is getting thinner and thinner to a failure , look at the sae oil chart and the weight and temperatures don’t add up to a hot summer day towing a heavy load!
Plain commonsense. Terrific video. Many thanks!
They would have already had engine failures but would still be under warranty which is why you're not seeing them in your shop yet.
Land Rover have had issues with spun bearings in many of their Ford diesel engines (seems to be less of an issue in other vehicles, despite the same engine).
I’m guessing you can put that down to the harder loads people are putting on their Discovery 3 than say a Jaguar XF.
LR recommend 5w30 but I know many people go to a 5w40, your explanation is by the far the best I’ve ever seen for why the thicker oil would be advantageous and how the spun bearings become a thing in the first place.
The most important thing you stated was quality regular maintenance… The oils specified are an interesting grade. Toyota have also changed the viscosity ratings recently.
I remember the 1HD-T engine issues in the 90s. I used to replace bigend barings every second day when I was an apprentice. Toyota warranted pretty much all of them. Even a few 80 series over 200k. I understand the car in question was modified but a one off good will gesture from Toyota would have been nice. They ain't cheap cars. Unfortunately with super tight emissions regs engines are becoming fragile. No more large capacity, lazy towing engines.
Yep tight emissions is the killer for carmakers now and why you're a mug wanting to chase more performance out of these modern light weight open deck engines whacked together with torque to yield bolts and not meant to come apart. They're now 10yr/200k throwaway appliances providing carmakers like Mitsubishi can guarantee the servicing. That hasn't sunk in for many carbuyers but biz understands it well and gets the best front end out of them in warranty before flipping them.
You may look forward to the first one coming through the workshop 😊 I wouldn't if I was the owner 😢 Great videos, much appreciated 👍
Interesting to see the size difference between the 5L and new 300 series engine. Massive difference considering how much (or little) the 5L engines produce in comparison. Definitely keep up with the services on the 300!
54 years ago, a bloke talked me into buying a drum of coloidal graphite, said it was a great additive to put in your sump oil, oil has obviously changed since those days, however it still sits in the shed, last used in a slant 6 up until the late 70s. Wonder what if any, advantage it would be as an additive in todays oil, or would it be a liability.
Going 2 be very interesting as my best mate Purchased a Brand New $145 k 3.3ltr twin turbo diesel a Year ago .
I personally HATE DIESEL ENGINES.
Waiting 4 the Nissan Twin Turbo Petrol 4wd . More HP & TQ .
Going 2 put it on the Dyno & Tweak the ECU .
These engines already using engine oil. Toyota has a really poor history of getting new engines right. Their reputation as being reliable is largely undeserved tbh.
Interesting video should we be running a heaver oil if not living in a cold climates
Similar problems to the Lion engine in Land Rovers. Skinny bearings and thin oil recommendations as well as lengthy service intervals. End result bearing and crank failures. Always thought Land Rover should copy Toyota but seems Toyota are coping Land Rover here 😊
I agree, my 2009 tdv6 rangie has 400,000km on it use 5w40 and change the oil below 10,000km. Wouldn’t buy a new one or a new land cruiser waste of money
Realistically modern vehicles, with modern technology should be getting more reliable each new model generation. Not the other way around.
Blame emission laws for that
Business 101. Why make a vehicle/engine last forever? There's no money in that. Everything is built by accountants now, not Engineers.
Nope, because modern vehicles are being made more and more cheaply with tighter tolerances and a crazy amount of built-in obsolescence!
5W/40 is the sweet spot. It's still a Quad Cam Roller Rocker design so I wouldn't go any higher than 5 or 10 with the Winter Rating. Oil Change @ 5,000KM
You were right 100% right 👍
Very interesting Peter.Would be very interested in your opinion on the old oil supplement ,Moreys.I am on a farm and have had and been servicing a Miriad of various machines from 80 year old vintage dozers to the latest vehicles and various machines and can honestly say I have not seen bearing failure to the point of losing oil pressure .I have used this product in all different applications over the last 45 years mainly as an added insurance.I have what some people say is a grenade,being the 3 litre Nissan that is our main farm vehicle with 6500 hrs original.In fairness we are very pedantic with hygiene and oil change intervals.
Moreys is just a viscosity booster, but yes it works, because it turns your 0W-20 into 5W-30 or more.
I'm concerned about these light weight oils in Australia across the board. I have a relatively new 2024 Hilux, interestingly Toyota have themselves switched it from 0W-20 to 0W-30, do you have a different oil recommendation for it in Australia? Cheers Drew
Would be great to see you explain some oil analysis data on these engines with different oil grades to combat this these issues if they exist
Thank you, Peter. I'm always interested in your explanation of engine failures. Cheers
Love your videos mate - thanks for doing them. Be giving you a call for my FTE if and when the time comes!
Yep, people just cant understand get more frequent oil changes... "but the manufacturer said 15,000kms"
nope half that if you want to keep the car for a long time..
And they are only using ridiculously thin oil so they pass emissions..
i have seen so many manufacturers engines literally evaporating the oil from it being to thin..
That is scary to see a engine with 3 times the power factory, with bearings half the size...
i have 2 compound turboed
(series 1 offset cam with rocker arms) 2L 2.4 diesels with over 400,xxxkms on them
Well Toyota are using the extended service interval as a selling point. Dont sell it like that if it cant make the distance. Those V6 engine may well share a bigend journal so I would expect the bearing size to be significantly smaller if thats the case. Same with V8 engines. Toyota are pretty dogshit making diesel engines when it comes right down to it. FTE was the only decent one so far without a miriad of problems.
Huge cash outlay, a fair few owners will want to tour Australia with a van in tow or overland (4wd) in seriously challenging conditions, and why wouldn’t you…dad always told me - son, never buy the first model of any vehicle. Not great….hello Toyota warranty claims dept😳
A guy at the Perth 4x4 show last year had one of these motors in his 105 series.
Cool engine conversion.
The v6??
Already seen one on a tilt tray near benella with the back of it covered in black engine oil.
Are you Colour Blind ?
I've heard Toyota does this on purpose to reduce chance of rust.
Came to say the same as a few others.
Already a 300 series engine failed at 27,000 kms - Clement’s family from WA, 4000 kms from home in the eastern states towing a big caravan.
Bought from Toyota Rockingham (same place I bought my new Prado 150 a short while back). Toyota have refused warranty. Purportedly because of modifications, including chopped & extended, GVM upgrade, canopy on tray on the back, boat on the roof, engines been “tuned” & an oil catch can added.
Toyota are probably rightly saying, modified, overloaded, therefore warranty voided.
Probably about time the aftermarket industry had the warrant issues hand balled down the line to them.
Sad for the owners, because you pay the “Toyota Tax” (over priced vehicles) to have access to a Aussie wife dealer network, and availability of parts, service & warranty.
Since Toyota aren’t playing that game any more of being “THE Aussie big lap towing touring 4WD of choice” - then there’s probably no point paying the “Toyota Tax” any more.
Might just as well buy an over priced unreliable Yank Tank - with no dealer network worth speaking of and no parts available in Oz & take your luck, because Toyota no longer holds the badge.
They have quite literally “sh!t in their own nest”.
yep, not buying a new Toyota any time soon
I want access to this Aussie Wife dealer network you speak of, mines due for a trade in 🤣
true nuff, I read that too, lesson, leave your vehicle stock standard
although i worry about my Disco, SDV6 256 HP, 600 NM , it is the best driving car out there, even better than the mercs I had AND it hangs onto 8th gear forever, if you let it, price of Cruisers is plain ludicrous
In my book you pay your fare and you take the ride. If you choose to mod your vehicle and thereby void the manufacturer's warranty you probably can't expect the aftermarket mob to come.to your rescue as they're not warranting anything other than their piece eg the bullbar you bought or the side rails or the bigger fuel tank etc if any of that has.am adverse effect on your vehicle's performance well that's on you to be fair!
Except why would any manufacturer want to warranty an inappropriately used vehicle at 2T over gross combined mass or 30+% over stipulated limits? Toyota tax is not an insurance policy for stupid use 🤷♂️
Great work peter Anthony 4×4 is a waffles on and on
Great video. For some reason these engines last 500 000km in the Sub Sahara heat and dust.
Are they towing long distance, what spec of oil? What oil change interval.
Another issue with the thin oils is viscosity dilution due to fuel wash/bypass at low revs (especially DI petrol engines). You end up using fuel to lube your engine! Once out of warranty, just go up one grade...say, 0W-20 to 10W-30 etc. Mathematically you will use more fuel, but in the real world , yeahnah, you won't notice it. If towing heavy in hot conditions, prob even look at a 10W-40 synthetic to get you safely there and back?
Don’t disagree but those viscosity won’t have a C5 or C2 rating. You’ll end up with a blocked DPF potentially
The 2012 onwards Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 Diesel have the same issue, too much power and torque and paper thin bearings. It's not a matter of if they fail, it is when they fails.
Great description 👍
Too much common sense in one place, the secret of any good engine is the bottom end then it doesnt matter whatyou put on top provided engine oil quality ,grade and quantity is ok ,thanks for a greatshow.
Do you know a good D4D supply and fit in Brisbane? Would you suggest a rebuild or replace 15 yr old D4D with 340,000 km on it? I'd love to keep my old vehicle but the donk needs freshening up
I have a Subaru as you may know they have very narrow rod bearings I towed a double axle car trailer about a 1000km no issues the next day when I went to start the car started without oil pressure immediately turned off the engine checked the oil very low topped it up still drive this car now. Lesson learnt towing heavy things over long distances can cause oil consumption always listen for oil pressure on startup.
Bloody good work all makes sense what oil should be used that may help
The 300 has been out for a few years now & there are vehicles with well over 100KM. As a 300 owner & member of most of the 300 forums I really haven't heard of many catastrophic engine failures. Lots of engine faults visit dealers warnings or limp modes but not people looking at an oily patch on the road with lumps of metal in. The main issues seem to be related to the 7th injector for DPF burns. Your far more likely to be stopped by a computer / ecu problem than an engine failure.
Apart from maintaining regular oil changes is there any other barriers that might remove risk of crank bearing failure such as oil coolers?
Great video Peter, thoughts on the 3.4 ltr petrol engines massive recall 109 000 plus engines ? Apparently the number 1 piston main bearing is failing.
Thanks for the heads up.
Do you recommend using flushing oil at oil changes?
What about viscosity, Toyota pushing 10k service intervals ?
Overstressed 3.3 700nm is not a joke definetly longevity will be compromised
Would it be fair to say for strength in land cruiser motors that is the order, starting from best 1HD - 1VD - F33A ?
Love your videos, Pete
That's disgusting 🤮. Pumping all that extra load (turbo) through a big end bearing that has 2/3 of surface area of the old 5LE hilux engine!? 🙄
Compression rings & scrapper are probably 2/3 of the size too!!!
Do these manufacturers expect the local snake 🐍 oil salesman to save their bacon with some synthetic formulations? FFS! 🤬 & you wonder why I refuse to drive a car built beyond 2005. 🙄
Does the 300 series have sputtered bearings? They have high load carrying capability. The older, larger ones look like a tri-metal bearing (silver in colour).
so a 0-20 oil might be a problem my new hilux has this weight from factory and it scares me a little
Hello. Thank you for taking the time to make and show your vids. Much appreciated. Im in WA. I have a 2010 VDJ79, 275km. Talking oils, could you pls advice viscosity and recommended brand that I should use, if you do not mind. Also looking at replacing the oil pick up after your very informative vid regarding the plastic units that Toyota use. I guess thats an expensive job, hey?
Cheers and thank you.
Wade
I thought I knew engines but apparently not. Learnt heaps!
Regular oil changes at half the recommended change periods. Service intervals are dreamed up by sales wonks and have little basis in facts.
Very interesting video. May i ask you, as an expert, a question ? I have a Landcruiser 90, 1KZ-TE engine. After the engine starts it takes 2 to 3 seconds for the oil pressure to build up. Should i be worried ?
Hell no, it takes at least a few seconds to start building pressure and probably 20-30 secs to sufficiently coat internals with some oil.
There is at least one more reason for con rod bearing failure: debris from machining. I think this is what Toyota is assuming.
What oil viscosity should I be running in my 200 series landcruiser 172000km stock tune ? Thanks
The absolute best LandCruiser was the last 80 series. Bullet proof. 100, not bad, but after that.....
I’ve got a client that has done 170k with his without an issue, I don’t service this car (dealer does) but I’m impressed by the fact he hasn’t had a problem with it yet!
Toyota worldwide have lost the plot , you don’t have to look hard to see all the issues…… I’ll never buy another one
Just look at the Tundra / Tucoma engine issues in the USA.
300 series landcruiser in Australia towing big caravans ....
They are not reliable anymore.
Tell us what you would buy
Would this be similar or same with the D-4D in LC200 series ?
my new 2009 Landcruiser vd79 used 1ltr of oil every 800km for the first 15k then i called toyota & asked them would they allow me to change to Shell Rimula X & they did & it used 100ml in 5000k after the oil change. the local toyota dealer started putting Rimula X in all the ones that had oil usage problems.
I dont suppose thesteel pistons fit the 1kd for an upgrade
Can they just use 15w-40 instead of 20 or something. That seems too light of an oil
How much of this has to do with tough emissions rules and trying to meet them
Thanks for the info! Reckon we should be using a different type of oil than the OE spec, or is it mostly about diligent servicing?
Seems to me most mechanics are recommending for Aussie conditions at least a small step up to 5W-30 on these 300s and if doing plenty of towing or hard off road Yakka then a further step up to 10W-40 seems the go!
You are saying oil viscosity is to low, what oil do you recommend for Australian conditions in that particular engine
Thanks for the advice. Obviously there’s a few factors but what would be your recommended oil in these and the 200’s. You’ve put a picture of 0w-20 would you use that?
So no thin oil 0w or 5w ?
What about operations in hot long summer
There is a family on insta that just had one fail and Toyota rejected warranty because it was chopped and extended towing a van in wa
As they absolutely should have done. You can’t make such modifications to your vehicle and expect to retain your factory warranty. Mechanic by trade, 25+ years experience.
They’ve only got to make it out of warranty.
I love my 1HZ 😍
Makes perfect sense 👌
Toyota.
Under speccing their big ends since the early L diesels 👌
They learn, they increase the size in the engine range and then they do it again in the next new engines 🤣
Slow learners!
Great Video. So a slightly thicker than standard oil is good when the engine is working hard. What about at cold start, will the thicker oil fail to properly get in between parts with very small clearances?
Don’t know much about engine oil do you?
What!?
These engines are failing already?
Surprise, surprise!
(No, I’m NOT surprised.)
What oil do you recommend. Do you recommend Toyota spec oil? 5w 40?
Interesting insights, is this in response to that family that had their 300 engine shit itself recently. They’ve had the warranty denied so you might have to look after them.
On a side note, are the D4D t-shirts available?
What oil change interval do you recommend ? 5000Kms ?
Another interesting insight from you Peter. What viscosity & type of oil do you recommend?
Great explaination. Cheers dude. Is the hot v contributing to this heat you think?
1 Grove the main bearings
Interesting can you upgrade the size? Is it an expensive fix?
Everything I own runs John Deere 15/40 plus 50 ii oil
You can keep your 0w/30 shit haha
I did the change years and years ago, being a diesel mechanic It just didn’t sit right seeing a diesel run such thin oil
I also don’t believe the latest tier of 15w/40 range of oils holds viscosity like it used to to
That’s why I run JD oil, still has nice thickness to the oil
We run mobil 15/40 at work and side by side you can literally feel the difference even though on paper there 15/40
Yes a little higher fuel consumption but fuel is cheaper then engines in 27,000k’s
Are they running a higher oil pressure then vd mtors?
300 series will never last as long as the old ones
0/20 weight oil in Australia heat not helping
Excellent video.
I'll stick with my old 1 GR FE engine. Never let me down and still going strong 💪 👍😎🍻
Is Toyota trying to say it’s a machine defect on the bearing it’s self
Why they run 0W ? Can you run 15-40 ? Cheers for vid