Your thoroughness in narration helped to fill in the gaps that a lot of other cutting board videos omit. Glad you didn’t let your perceived glut of cutting board videos deter you from making your video. Everyone is unique and I’ve watch plenty in prep for my first board and yours was boots on the ground helpful. That’s my long winded way of saying thanks!
Very Nice! I also hate juice grooves and won't have them on my boards. Have done them on clients boards which I hate to do. Try using a nice damp soft cloth the remove the glue squeeze out after clamping. I found that is saved me a lot of time. I do water pop at 320 then hit it with 400 just long enough to take the pop up hairs down. Any more and you're defeating the purpose. I pour a quarter cup of food safe mineral oil on a board and use a paint brush to brush it in. Usually takes about 30 minutes, some food soak it in quicker like walnut. Then I dry and apply the wax. Once I did my first end grain I never made another face grain....but might one day.
Great video man. The juice groove depends on what we are cutting. You should have a separate board for meats and veggies. Juice grooves are for meats and without for veggies. It's nice to do it this way in my kitchen so we don't mix up which board is which
Good video. I use tung oil, takes longer for each coat to dry but lasts much longer and requires no re-coating. Of the three 'types' of cutting board, face grain mars the easiest, then edge grain, and best is end grain. All the butcher blocks that used to be used in butcher shops before the invention of band saws were end grain. Hardly any knife scratches for bacteria to grow. P,S, tung oil is food safe.
End grain is also easier on knives as they slice between the straws of the fibers and not across them. It’s sort of like using a self-healing cutting surface for craftwork. As to bacteria, wood has a natural antibacterial agent in it that kills the bacteria on its own. You can look that up on Google. The thing about tung oil is that it’s a hard finish. Mineral oil and beeswax mix is easily reapplied as needed and is simple for any end user.
I agree 100% with you on juice grooves and handles, they are pretty much useless. Namely, juice grooves add an extra step on the building process which imposes an unnecessary risk of ruining the cutting board, as I've seen in many videos... Nice work btw!
I’m not convinced there is a difference between “edge grain” and “face grain”. I’ve never used an end grain cutting board so can’t compare. I’ll make one one day. The boards I have made all seem to hold up well and perform good! Plus I think the way they look is amazing. :)
@@ryandaywoodworking Well the defiantly do look amazing... I've only made edge grain and really only causes I always heard they were better and a few end grain they say is the best... but honestly I don't know
Good video , with a few suggestions from a production wood worker. Never wear gloves and long sleeves around machinery in a wood shop. With regards to you’re snipe issue, you need to adjust the height of you’re infeed and outfeed tables. Do you’re self a favour and buy a used 6-8” jointer, it is a must for any rough lumber woodworking, and is way safer that what you are doing on the table saw.
Thanks for the feedback! I've mostly ditched the gloves. :) I did end up getting a used 8" jointer with a helical head and it really has been game changing.
I’m just starting to make cutting boards. It’s my understanding to mildly dampen the board to raise the grain, then sand, then apply the final finish. Someone correct me if I’m wrong
You can do that for sure. I do it on about half my boards, just depends on how I feel or how much time I have. I can’t say I notice a difference either way.
Raise the grain in between each sanding grit starting with 100 to 320 ending with 400 grit. when you raise the grain, you don’t need to soak the board. A damp cloth will do just fine let it dry. Go to the next grit. after 400 grit add your finish good to go. most finishes need at least three coats.
@ no not at all my charcuterie board turned out beautiful I absolutely love woodworking so I decided to take classes at my community college for woodworking. To hold the skills that I already have and to learn new ones I still take classes and enjoy it. My teacher taught me this method at first I was skeptical, but it turned out so beautiful. Everybody that touches it says it doesn’t even feel like real wood so try it out.
2:59 Wouldn't it be better to place the concave edge against the level, as the two ends would make contact, rather than the convex edge which has a greater potential to shift during the cut? I use a tracksaw as I don't have a tablesaw, however what you are doing looks wrong to me...
It’s possible I have my concave and convex backwards. You don’t want the side where the edges curve away from the straightedge towards the fence. This would cause it to rock as you describe. You want to make sure you can maintain constant contact with the straight edge during the cut.
Cut your boards to the length you need. Hot glue a piece of 2x4 cut to be +4inches longer on each end to both sides. 2x4 pieces get the snip, boards are fine. I usually rip my 2x4 into thirds or half’s depending on the thickness of the wood to be protected. Hope this helps.
@ save up a bit and buy a reasonable saw. Maybe $500. most important part is to take the time to actually set that saw up and square everything. There is your next video. It will pay for itself hopefully.
Both would work. Sometimes with the mitre saw, I find that rough wood can bind. Have had it happen a couple of times. I need a new blade for my circular saw, but no reason you couldn’t use that.
I came across your video again didn't realize I left a comment, so be unique and put juice grooves around three of the sides that way you give the customer the option to catch the juice on one end or slide the vegetables off on the other. after all it's not about how pretty it looks it's how it functions.
@dian3145 Relax Karen. We used to poke fun and rib all and everyone in the crafts. Don't be a pussy with this he hurt my feelings. Give the newbie a chance to cut back. I can take it.
I dont suggest anyone make cutting boards, the market is generally flooded since every beginner and seasoned person does them. They're incredibly simple for the most part.
@@ryandaywoodworking there's a hole science on how to mill lumber For cutting boards the surface grain will not hold up to knife marks leading to bacteria build up End grain is the best but side grain boards will do i'm no professional I made a few boards for friends and family and did some research prior to the build just have fun thats all that matters
Your thoroughness in narration helped to fill in the gaps that a lot of other cutting board videos omit. Glad you didn’t let your perceived glut of cutting board videos deter you from making your video. Everyone is unique and I’ve watch plenty in prep for my first board and yours was boots on the ground helpful. That’s my long winded way of saying thanks!
Thanks so much! I really appreciate that!
I have a juice groove and I like it. Cutting chicken or oranges and it doesn't run onto the counter.
Very Nice! I also hate juice grooves and won't have them on my boards. Have done them on clients boards which I hate to do. Try using a nice damp soft cloth the remove the glue squeeze out after clamping. I found that is saved me a lot of time. I do water pop at 320 then hit it with 400 just long enough to take the pop up hairs down. Any more and you're defeating the purpose. I pour a quarter cup of food safe mineral oil on a board and use a paint brush to brush it in. Usually takes about 30 minutes, some food soak it in quicker like walnut. Then I dry and apply the wax. Once I did my first end grain I never made another face grain....but might one day.
Great video man. The juice groove depends on what we are cutting. You should have a separate board for meats and veggies. Juice grooves are for meats and without for veggies. It's nice to do it this way in my kitchen so we don't mix up which board is which
Thanks for watching!
The water goes before the oil and wax. Sanding, water, dry, sanding, oil, wax. Great content!
Level straight edge trick is sweet
Like your presentation style and like the end result.
Greetings from the other side of the pond. 🏴
Thanks! I really appreciate it!
You could either put two particular edges or three while leaving the shorter end open, just a though.
Good video. I use tung oil, takes longer for each coat to dry but lasts much longer and requires no re-coating. Of the three 'types' of cutting board, face grain mars the easiest, then edge grain, and best is end grain. All the butcher blocks that used to be used in butcher shops before the invention of band saws were end grain. Hardly any knife scratches for bacteria to grow. P,S, tung oil is food safe.
Thanks for sharing!
End grain is also easier on knives as they slice between the straws of the fibers and not across them. It’s sort of like using a self-healing cutting surface for craftwork. As to bacteria, wood has a natural antibacterial agent in it that kills the bacteria on its own. You can look that up on Google. The thing about tung oil is that it’s a hard finish. Mineral oil and beeswax mix is easily reapplied as needed and is simple for any end user.
Only about 1 of every 15 boards will not have juice grooves, according to my orders. Great video!
Wow! Good to know!
I agree 100% with you on juice grooves and handles, they are pretty much useless. Namely, juice grooves add an extra step on the building process which imposes an unnecessary risk of ruining the cutting board, as I've seen in many videos... Nice work btw!
Good video .... whats your thoughts on them being face grain cutting boards?
I’m not convinced there is a difference between “edge grain” and “face grain”. I’ve never used an end grain cutting board so can’t compare. I’ll make one one day. The boards I have made all seem to hold up well and perform good! Plus I think the way they look is amazing. :)
@@ryandaywoodworking Well the defiantly do look amazing... I've only made edge grain and really only causes I always heard they were better and a few end grain they say is the best... but honestly I don't know
Would you mind if i ask what you sell these for
I just try to recover my costs. I haven’t found a good way to market smaller things like this that works.
Excelente trabajo. Gracias. 👏🏼
Thank you for a wonderful video!Very inspiring! Cheers!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video ,I don't do juice grooves in my boards .
Thanks for watching!
Good video , with a few suggestions from a production wood worker. Never wear gloves and long sleeves around machinery in a wood shop. With regards to you’re snipe issue, you need to adjust the height of you’re infeed and outfeed tables. Do you’re self a favour and buy a used 6-8” jointer, it is a must for any rough lumber woodworking, and is way safer that what you are doing on the table saw.
Thanks for the feedback! I've mostly ditched the gloves. :) I did end up getting a used 8" jointer with a helical head and it really has been game changing.
I have one board with juice groove, balance are no grooves. Agree with your point on why no grooves
I think if you are carving up a ton of juicy meat they have a place!
I do not do juice grooves in my boards..
I guess have the customer make that call on the juice groove or handles or not.
Yup, for sure!
What happened to the compact table saw?
I was lucky enough to negotiate an upgrade with my wife! 😃
I’m just starting to make cutting boards. It’s my understanding to mildly dampen the board to raise the grain, then sand, then apply the final finish. Someone correct me if I’m wrong
You can do that for sure. I do it on about half my boards, just depends on how I feel or how much time I have. I can’t say I notice a difference either way.
Raise the grain in between each sanding grit starting with 100 to 320 ending with 400 grit. when you raise the grain, you don’t need to soak the board. A damp cloth will do just fine let it dry. Go to the next grit. after 400 grit add your finish good to go. most finishes need at least three coats.
@@jonkelly4182 Thank you
Do you think going to 400 grit is too fine? Would it affect the finish absorption?
@ no not at all my charcuterie board turned out beautiful I absolutely love woodworking so I decided to take classes at my community college for woodworking. To hold the skills that I already have and to learn new ones I still take classes and enjoy it. My teacher taught me this method at first I was skeptical, but it turned out so beautiful. Everybody that touches it says it doesn’t even feel like real wood so try it out.
2:59 Wouldn't it be better to place the concave edge against the level, as the two ends would make contact, rather than the convex edge which has a greater potential to shift during the cut? I use a tracksaw as I don't have a tablesaw, however what you are doing looks wrong to me...
It’s possible I have my concave and convex backwards. You don’t want the side where the edges curve away from the straightedge towards the fence. This would cause it to rock as you describe. You want to make sure you can maintain constant contact with the straight edge during the cut.
You did she what you were writing on the boards prior to planning.
Cut your boards to the length you need. Hot glue a piece of 2x4 cut to be +4inches longer on each end to both sides. 2x4 pieces get the snip, boards are fine. I usually rip my 2x4 into thirds or half’s depending on the thickness of the wood to be protected.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tip!
On the juice groove---depends on what you are cutting. Meat strips, ,roast, turkey, chicken, fish....as examples....
Yes, I agree! I just typically find it more of a pain than not. It will definitely depend on what you use it for most of the time.
These are face edge boards?
Yup!
Step 1 get a complete workshop to build it in 😂
haha!
The juice groove on my board almost never sees any juice...but it doesw trap my darn garlic so you may be right :D
Haha!
You should get a better miter saw bro
Haha. One day! The list of things I want/need is long. What would you recommend?
@ save up a bit and buy a reasonable saw. Maybe $500. most important part is to take the time to actually set that saw up and square everything. There is your next video. It will pay for itself hopefully.
@@ryandaywoodworking I have a Makita miter saw. After a lot of research, I concluded that the Makita saw was the best for the money.
Why not a circular saw instead of a Jig saw or a miter?
Both would work. Sometimes with the mitre saw, I find that rough wood can bind. Have had it happen a couple of times. I need a new blade for my circular saw, but no reason you couldn’t use that.
juice grooves are annoying but not if your cutting meat. I groove one side and say one side for meat one side for veggies
Yeah, I don’t carve a lot of meat, so not super useful for me. I do get that application though!
you could use some rubber mats you've had stuff slipping all over the place throughout your videos.
I bought some of those rockler bench cookies recently. They work great!
I came across your video again didn't realize I left a comment, so be unique and put juice grooves around three of the sides that way you give the customer the option to catch the juice on one end or slide the vegetables off on the other. after all it's not about how pretty it looks it's how it functions.
Bravo you have mastered the cutting board.
I was just saying yesterday I really wish there was another cutting board video on UA-cam.
Thanks for stopping by!
It is a tragedy that your free will has been eroded to the point that you are no longer able to just scroll on by.
@dian3145 Relax Karen.
We used to poke fun and rib all and everyone in the crafts.
Don't be a pussy with this he hurt my feelings.
Give the newbie a chance to cut back.
I can take it.
I dont suggest anyone make cutting boards, the market is generally flooded since every beginner and seasoned person does them. They're incredibly simple for the most part.
You're not wrong. They are a good way to learn the basics and I still find them satisfying! Also they make good gifts.
Alll kind of wrong in this video, but hey .. end products.
I’d love to hear more!
surface grain is not good for cutting boards try using edge grain instead
I’ve always wondered about this. What’s the difference? The tree is round, right so aren’t all long grain edges basically the same?
@@ryandaywoodworking there's a hole science on how to mill lumber For cutting boards the surface grain will not hold up to knife marks leading to bacteria build up End grain is the best but side grain boards will do i'm no professional I made a few boards for friends and family and did some research prior to the build just have fun thats all that matters
If it's not end grain i dont want it
I’m going to make a big end grain board in a few weeks. Maybe I’ll share that.